Lhasa temples. Golden dragons in Chinese palaces and temples in Lhasa golden dragon throne treatment

“The famous Beijing Longqingxia tract is located in the northern part, 11 km from Yangqing County, there are beautiful mountains and wonderful waters, as well as a beautiful landscape, in 1986 it was awarded the title of one of the“ 16 landscapes of new Beijing ”. From 1996 to 2001, it was awarded the Beijing Cultural Monstrosity, and in 2001 was awarded the AAAA State Monstrous Monstrosity, "a Russian-language poster in the parking lot in front of the Golden Dragon Gorge flatteringly praises this tourist spot.
We look forward to the promise!


Draco asiaticus - The Asian dragon is the most cheerful of all its relatives. This cheerful weather lord rules over clouds, rain, thunder and lightning. He is the king of all scales, one of the four celestial animals of China and one of the twelve signs of the Chinese gyroscope. The rulers of antiquity considered themselves the earthly embodiment of these divine beings. They say that somewhere in the Universe there is a tablet on which it is written how many dragons there are in the world. "
John Topsell. "How to Raise and Raise a Dragon".

By clicking on the map you will see where dragons are found. This is some 80 km from the center of Beijing in the direction of Russia.
Long Qing Xia Gorge coordinates:
Latitude: 40.535667 °
Longitude: 116.010406 ​​°

A hot, dusty, unremarkable road leads from the huge parking area to the lace gate into the park area. You have to use the services of small open cars that throw tourists up the hill, or, if you are afraid that your panama hat will blow off, you will have to walk one and a half kilometers along the road on foot.

Just outside the gates of the dragon kingdom, a pleasant park area with invigorating shadow and stone sculptures awaits you.

The northern regions of China are influenced by Russian culture. This is how this phoenix decided to look both east and west at the same time.

In winter, on the territory of the park, under the Orthodox domes, an annual festival of ice sculptures is held.

Near the ice rinks, a young maiden divines with a marmot.

We are gradually approaching the Gorge. We will fly to the height of the mountain lake on a dragon, but the dragon carries no one down. Back.
Those who wish are offered a ride down over the park on miner's trolleys. Something like that.

This is how the grandiose Gateway to the Dragon World looks like! A large Chinese beaver dragon built a dam, and a small mountain stream rose 90 meters, flooding the banks and supporting the sheer walls of the mountains. Thus, the Golden Dragon Gorge was formed.

And here is the largest representative of the most August imperial reptiles. Sliding down the dam, he smiles at the guests.

To get to the magical land of Zadraconia, you have to allow yourself to be devoured a little. To do this, you just need to enter the hospitable smile of a welcoming monster.

The gut of the dragon is framed pleasantly: memories of what you have already seen on other excursions in China flash before your eyes, and you also imagine pictures of other worlds that you still had a chance to see.

Now you are standing on the escalator, which means that, contrary to the existing belief, you have only one way out of the dragon.

All 258 meters of the intra-dragon escalator, we wondered how the exit from this fabulously gluttonous creature would be decorated. My heart relieved when, descending from the running steps, we found ourselves in a cave, which brought us to the light of Buddhism.

Everything rests against the pier. As I said, the 90 meters raised river did not leave the possibility of coastal walks. All excursions start from the boat.

According to some indirect evidence, there is fish in the reservoir.

Monks strive to be closer to God, and therefore they settle higher. You will be offered to take the funicular to the Buddhist temple after walking along the gorge.

Neither the dragon nor the Beijing heat will take you! And now you are sailing along a quiet picturesque gorge, where steep mountains are covered from head to toe with intricate interweaving of all kinds of vegetation. Is there really someone else living there, in these rocky wilds? I think that no one in such conditions will be so comfortable to exist as young dragons - the great-great-grandchildren of our good friend the watchman, in whose tummy we just purr.

And after all, the uncle dragon gave every grief some name. Here we are sailing around the Cape "Diadem of the Phoenix", and behind it rises "Bell-shaped Mountain".

The Magic Feather, obviously.

Jumping bear rock. Yeh-hu!

Behind Camel's Peak, there is a view of a small entertainment area. This is where you sailed. Siganut from the tower is the most visual possibility of the final boat stop. But its content is much more interesting: Right behind Tarzan's simulator, there is a quiet Diamond Temple (the name is that), and above an alien jumping structure, on one of the peaks, the Dream Pavilion fits very organically (oh, and I will tell you, children, a fairy tale about the Keeper of a Thousand Blankets ... But later). Also in these parts there is a souvenir market and a small zoo with sika deer and peacocks.

Against the background of a mountain with a grotto "Coin-smelting furnace" (right, what a dragon without gold), cyclists ride over the abyss.

There is a queue of Tarzans for the bungee. The cost of a jump is 200 yuan from Tarzan, or about 2000 rubles.

From this height, there must be great views of the gorge.

Small Guilin, Moon Bay, Clock Mountain ...

This happy path leads to the Dream Pavilion. You need to check what people dream about there?

And from below, the bungee seemed to be high. But the magic ladder opens up new heights for you every half hour.
They say there are as many steps as there are residents in China.
"- Who says ?!
- Yes, everyone says!
- Who's everyone?!
- ..Well, everyone who got up! ..
- Who got up ?!
- .. Well, tourists ..
- What kind of tourists ?!
- ..Well, I..."

Climbing up to the dream pavilion, you sit down to catch your breath. This is where the image of the mythical Keeper of a Thousand Blankets appears! This woman, of course, is a fairy-tale character who carries a basket filled with a thousand blankets of various colors behind her back. And red, and blue, and green .. and weasel there are also there .. well, this, in fact, does not matter. This near-divine character walks one and a half billion steps to the Pavilion a thousand times a day, and thousands of tourists who have climbed into the Dream Pavilion will fulfill any of their wishes! Absolutely any !!! Just imagine. But ... In July Beijing it is 30 degrees. And since for many millennia all those who have ascended have been making the same wish, the Keeper of a Thousand Blankets, again and again reaching the top, with one graceful, trained wave of the miraculous finger of Silent coolness snatches from the cold bowels of her knapsack "Giving Life" sung in the epics - ice cream popsicles on stick.
Shhhhh ...

The Diamond Temple has an exceptional atmosphere of thoughtfulness and pacifies the speed of ever-late tourists with a scent.

Smile at the roof and the roof will smile at you.

Primary Zoo.

Chinese rural sketch.

Lhasa (Tib. ལྷ་ ས་, Chin. 拉萨) is the capital of the Tibet Autonomous Region in China. The city is located 3,650 m (12,000 ft) above sea level on the northern slopes of the Himalayas.

general information

The history of the city of Lhasa, whose name means "Land of the Gods", is more than 1,300 years old, and the city itself is located in the valley of the Lhasa River. In the eastern part of the city, near the Jokhang temple and the Barkhor region, the influence of Tibet is still strong and noticeable, and it is quite common to see traditionally dressed Tibetans making kora (clockwise or walking around the Jokhang temple) spinning prayer wheels. The western part of Lhasa is ethnically Chinese in character. It is a busy and modern part of the city, similar to many Chinese cities. Most of the infrastructure, including banks or government offices, can be found here. You can book a hotel at, but you can check if there is a more attractive price. You can search for offers for renting private apartments or rooms.

How to get there

To visit Tibet, non-Chinese nationalities need to obtain a special permit, as well as to be accompanied by a guide.

By plane

Lhasa Gonggar Airport (贡嘎 机场) (IATA: LXA) is located 61 km south of Lhasa. You can navigate the prices for air tickets.

All non-Chinese arriving must be met at the airport by a guide. Taxis can be hired from the airport. In addition, there is a regular bus (25 RMB). Non-Chinese travelers use transportation provided by a travel agency.

By train

Qinghai - The Tibetan (Qingzan) Railway connects Lhasa and Golmud, with connections to Xining, Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Chongqing.

  • T27 / 28 from / to Beijing West (daily, 44 hours).
  • T22 / 23/24/21 from / to (every other day, 44 hours).
  • T222 / 223/224/221 from / to Chongqing (every other day, 45 hours).
  • T164 / 165/166/163 from / to Shanghai (daily, 48 hours).
  • T264 / 265/266/263 from / to Guangzhou (every other day, 55 hours) - the longest train service in China (4980 km).
  • K917 / 918 from / to Lanzhou (daily, 27 hours).
  • K9801 / 9802 from / to Xining West (daily, 24 hours).

Non-Chinese tourists are not able to buy tickets on their own. Foreigners must purchase tickets through a travel agency. Getting a ticket is most difficult during the Chinese New Year (January and February) and during the summer holidays (July and August).

Moving from the train station

A taxi ride between the city and the train station will cost you exactly RMB 30, drivers do not use meters. Check the cost of the trip in advance, as many drivers will try to take 100 RMB. Alternatively, take a bus (1 yuan) to get to the other side of the river and there you can hail a metered taxi.

Clue:

Lhasa - the time is now

Difference in hours:

Moscow - 3

Kazan - 3

Samara - 2

Yekaterinburg - 1

Novosibirsk 1

Vladivostok 4

When is the season. When is the best time to go

Lhasa - monthly weather

Clue:

Lhasa - monthly weather

Major attractions. What to see

Potala Palace (Phodrang)

The citadel probably existed on Red Hill even before the 7th century, when King Songtsen Gyalpo built a fortress for his two wives. the palace was rebuilt under the 5th Dalai Lama for three years, then the 13th Dalai Lama expanded and rebuilt it. This is how we see the palace today. In 1775, under the 7th Dalai Lama, Norbulingka became a summer residence, and Potala became a winter palace. In the Potala, you can find the rooms in which the Dalai Lama lived, as well as their luxurious golden tombs. As the religious and political center of old Tibet, as well as the winter residence of the Dalai Lamas, the palace witnessed not only the life of the Dalai Lamas, but also the main political and religious events of recent centuries. The Potala Palace houses a vast array of rare cultural relics, including handwritten golden Buddhist scriptures, valuable gifts from the emperors of China, and many priceless antiques. You can get to the palace for ¥ 100. For an hour, you will take a guided tour of the palace; at least you will be given the amount of time you need to climb and descend the numerous steps leading up to the 14-storey residence. Make sure you are acclimatized before visiting. The Potala Palace was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1994, the Jokhang Temple in 2000, and the Norbulingka summer residence in 2001.

Summer Palace (summer residence) Norbulinga

Located about 1 km west of the Potala Palace, it was built in 1775 by the VII Dalai Lama and expanded with each successive ruler. Currently, restoration work is underway in the residence, and on the territory of the complex there is a small zoo, botanical gardens and a mansion. The entrance fee will be 60 RMB (2015).

Churches and temples. Which are worth visiting

Jokhang Temple (Tsuglakhan)

Built in the 7th century for the statue of Buddha that Princess Bhrikuti of Nepal and Wen Cheng of the Chinese Tang Dynasty brought as a gift for their future husband, King Songtsen Gambo. Over the centuries, the temple was completed many times and now serves as a haven for the statues of King Songtsen Gumbo and his two famous brides. However, the statue of Buddha Jowo Shakyamuni, brought by Princess Wen Cheng from Chang'an about 1,300 years ago, is the most sacred and famous landmark and perhaps the most revered religious shrine in all of Tibet. The magnificent four-story temple with a gilded roof faces west and is located in Barkhor Square in the center of old Lhasa.


Drepung monastery

Founded in 1416 by a follower of Tsong Kapa, ​​it became the largest and most luxurious monastery in Tibet, where the Lamas participated in the preparation of new Dalai Lamas. Drepung became the abode of Nechung, the state oracle of Tibet. Throughout history, there were about 10,000 monks in Drepung, and in his subordination were 700 "minor" monasteries and vast estates. Drepung belongs to the Gelugpa sect.

The monastery is located 10 kilometers west of the old part of Lhasa, you can get to it by buses No. 17, 24 and others for 1 yuan. Bus 24 runs between Drepung and Sera. The entrance fee to the monastery will be RMB 50 (2015), and it will take half a day to visit. It is recommended to stock up on water and snacks. In front of the monastery (in the ticket office) there are several small restaurants.

Sera monastery

It was founded in 1419 by one of eight disciples of Tsong Kapa (the founder of the Gelupa sect). The monastery became famous for its tantric teachings, while Drepung became famous for its political participation. Sera was smaller than Drepung, the Sera brothers numbered 7,000 monks, but the monastery was not inferior in wealth and was similar to Drepung in power. Sera's monks were considered smart and dangerous.

The monastery is located 5 kilometers north of the city center, which can be reached by buses No. 6.16, 24 and others for 1 yuan. Bus 24 runs between Drepung and Sera. The entrance fee to Sera will be 50 RMB (2015), and it will take 3 hours to walk around the monastery. 10 meters from the ticket office, there is a path on the right-hand side that leads to the entrance to the monastery, which can be accessed without a ticket.

Museums. Which are worth visiting

Tibet Museum

The entrance fee will be 25 RMB. This is a museum of carefully selected artifacts reflecting the centuries-old history of Tibet. At the entrance you can take a free audio guide in your language. As you would expect, the museum presents a Chinese perspective on the “peaceful liberation” of Tibet, but it is well worth a visit.


Tourist streets

Barkhor Street Market

Located on the oldest typically Tibetan street that surrounds the Jokhang Temple on all sides, in the heart of old Lhasa, where you can bargain with local Tibetan sellers of handicrafts rarely found anywhere else in the world. For many centuries, Barkhor Street has been one of the most important religious paths along which pilgrims walk around the Jokhang temple, turning prayer wheels. Buddhist pilgrims walk the street in a clockwise direction every day until nightfall. On your first visit to Barkhor, visit Barkhor Square, built in 1985. On several occasions, the square has become the site of political protests and clashes between Chinese and Tibetans.

What to see in the vicinity

  • From the street on the east side of the Yak Hotel, buses leave early in the morning to Shigatse, Tsetang, Samye, Nakchu, Danzhung. From the intercity bus station, you can go to Golmud, (via Xining and Lanzhou), Nakchu, Chamdo, Baiyi, Tsetang, Shigatse and Dram. Depending on your documents, you will be allowed (or not allowed) to purchase a ticket to a particular destination.
  • It is quite simple to fly from Lhasa: daily flights connect the capital of Tibet and major cities of China, in addition, several days a week there are flights from Lhasa to:
  • The 7-day trip includes hotel accommodation, breakfast, 4-wheel drive jeep. Tourists are accompanied by a guide who assumes responsibility for their registration with the police when entering the city and when leaving the city (this is a standard procedure).
  • Samye Monastery was built in 779 under the patronage of King Trison Detzun and under the supervision of Shantarakshita and Padmasambhava, two prominent Buddhist teachers from India. Samye became the first Buddhist monastery in Tibet and to this day remains one of the most important shrines for pilgrims in the region. Samye is located near Dranang, 150 km southeast of Lhasa. You can get to the monastery by bus or minivan. The trip is designed for 2 days. If you have the time, visit the nearby Chimpu sketes, where you can experience more spiritual vibrations than Samye. A permit is required to avoid police hassle and fines.

  • Ganden Monastery is located on the southern bank of the Kyichu River 45 kilometers east of Lhasa. Ganden is the main monastery of the Gelugpa (Yellow Hats) order in Tibetan Buddhism. The newly reconstructed monastery, built in 1409 by Tsongkhapa, the founder of Gelugpu, offers dizzying mountain views.
  • You can take a walking tour between the Ganden and Saumier monasteries, which will take 4 - 5 days on average (at a brisk pace - 3 days).

Lots of cute and comfortable restaurants are located near the Jokhang Temple and the historic center of Barkhor. Recently, Indian and Nepalese restaurants, as well as Tibetan restaurants serving Western cuisine, have been opening more and more in Lhasa. Lunch for one person will cost 30 RMB, drinks are included. Small Tibetan restaurants, especially teahouses, all over Barkhor are much cheaper and tastier than restaurants for tourists (from 5 yuan). Tibetan restaurants in Barkhor are committed to tradition, and for a western traveler, Chinese food may seem far more varied and attractive than the slippery boiled yak that is served in Tibet at Chinese restaurants around Barkhor and in the new part of Lhasa. Nowadays, in all Tibetan establishments, when ordering tea with milk, they will bring you sweet tea with powdered milk imported from China. Free hot water is provided in all restaurants. Tibetan restaurants can also be found along the way to Sera and Drepung monasteries.

Tsham khung nunnery "s restaurant" (Tsham khung monastery: མཚམས་ ཁུང་ དགོན་པ་) located on Ling khor South road. A restaurant inside the nunnery with a separate entrance. On the menu (in English) you can find thugpa noodles. , momo dumplings (with meat or vegetables) and milk tea Inexpensive but tasty food.

Western cuisine:

  • Tibet Steak Restaurant. There are two such restaurants: one is opposite the Mandala restaurant next to the Jokhang temple, the second is to the west of the Potala Palace. Both restaurants have a menu of Tibetan, Nepalese, Indian, Chinese and Western cuisines.
  • Snowland Restaurant, 4 Tenjieling Road, next to Jokhang Square (☎ 0891-6337323). A varied menu including Western, Nepalese, Indian and Tibetan cuisines. It is famous for its high level of service, delicious food, which is why it is very popular.
  • The New Mandala Restaurant, with a rooftop garden, is located opposite Jokhang Temple (☎ 86-0891-6342235). Indian, Nepalese, Tibetan and Western cuisine. A beautiful view of the city opens from the roof. Try the ("pinching") yak meat.
  • Tengyelink Cafe. Famous for excellent yak meat, pleasant atmosphere. They offer the best food in all of Lhasa. Inexpensive breakfasts are provided.

Safety. What to watch out for

Tourist notes

  1. Take off your hat when visiting the Jokhang, Potala or other sacred sites. Avoid short shorts and tank tops. When visiting shrines, it is customary to leave a small donation, especially if the entrance is free.
  2. Walk around stupas and other sacred sites only clockwise.
  3. Don't climb on statues, monuments, and other sacred sites.
  4. Avoid eating garlic before visiting the temple. Tibetans consider its smell to be a sign of disrespect.
  5. Photography in the Potala Palace is prohibited, but it is allowed to take photographs in the Jokhang Temple. In some monasteries it is possible to take photographs for a nominal fee. The monks will allow photographs to be taken after a small donation. When in doubt, ask before taking out your camera.

Altitude sickness

Before traveling to Lhasa, read the article on altitude sickness for symptoms, precautions to take, and treatment options. Altitude sickness can easily ruin your holiday, and in some cases, even fatal. Lhasa is located at an altitude of 3750 m above sea level, so there is a significant risk of altitude sickness, especially if your native places are at a lower altitude and your body has not had time to acclimatize. If you are forced to fly to Lhasa, it will not be superfluous to make a stop at an intermediate point, such as, for example, Kunming, which is located at an altitude of 1,950 m above sea level, and stay there for several days for acclimatization.

Religious laws

Do not, under any circumstances, give or show photographs of the Dalai Lama to monks or local residents, as this could get you in trouble. Remember, some monks cooperate with the authorities, while others are not.

Theft

Follow safety precautions when shopping at Barkhor or Jokhang Temple. To avoid problems, leave large backpacks at the hotel and keep an eye on your wallet.

Beggars

Do not give alms to children and be careful before giving: giving to one beggar can attract a whole crowd.

Things to do

  • Kora is a meditative walk around a shrine such as a temple, practiced by many Tibetans.
  • Opera "Langma" (literally "royal music") is a traditional Tibetan song and dance show.
  • "Blind massage" at the Medical Massage Clinic at 59 Lhasa Beijing Middle Road, 3rd Floor (opposite Kichu Hotel). ☎ 6320870. Cost - ¥ 80 / hour. The staff speaks English. Supported by the "Braille Without Borders" project. A great way to adjust to the height or just relax.
  • The amusement park, which is located at: No.30-32 Sela Road.

Shopping and shops

Note: Many ATMs do not accept foreign bank cards, unlike Bank of China, which also provides currency exchange.

  • The kiosks on Barkhor Street captivate with their amazing gizmos, but in most cases they are "trash" from Nepal and China. An example is fake bronze figurines or paintings that have nothing to do with Buddha. Despite this, many authentic items can be found here. Look out for household items and woodwork such as balls, pilgrim stamps, silver items, gau (amulet variant), silver and brass seals, old Tibetan bills, knitted schoolbags, and woven bags. Buying Tibetan antiques is an attractive idea, but it has a devastating effect on the culture of Tibet.
  • In search of Buddhist thangka, head to the workshop you'll find in the back streets. In the workshop, you can watch the process of its creation. In this respect, a walk through the "backyards" of Barkhor is very useful: here you can meet artisans in the process of creating paintings, furniture, clay sculptures, masks, ceremonial symbols and appliqués. Not all works of art can be taken away with you, but it is worth seeing.
  • Tibet is considered the ancestor of traditional carpet manufacturers, although many of the alleged Tibetan carpets displayed in shops in Barkhor and in front of the Potala were made in factories in Nepal under the leadership of Tibetan emigrants, and a significant number of patterns are Turkmen and Afghan and have nothing to do with Tibetan traditions. Some shops put carpets on looms to be sure of their authenticity, but in the showroom most of the time they are imported. To find an authentic Tibetan rug, visit a factory or an exhibition from a factory. Take a close look at the product and make sure that you are buying a carpet that is identical to what you saw on the machine. Smell the carpet: Real Tibetan wool contains lanolin and has a distinctive scent. Cheap wool from Qinghai and Mongolia is comparatively drier. Occasionally older designs can be found in Barkhor and nearby shops, although good, antique carpets are hunted by collectors, so prices can be significantly higher, even in Lhasa.
  • Tianhai Night Market, located in the western suburbs, boasts a wide variety of goods and low prices compared to Barkhor Street.
  • Tibetan Blankets (Address: Snow Leopard Industries, 2 East Zang Yi Yuan Road, next to Snowland Hotel and Barkhor Square). ☎ 0891-6321481. A small shop with a wide range of traditional and modern models made in our own factory. Fixed reasonable prices. The owner speaks English and can explain the differences in Tibetan patterns and explain the process of making the blankets. In addition, the shop has a souvenir shop with set low prices. Delivery of blankets abroad is possible. Credit cards accepted.
  • Tibetan Rugs - The Tanva Carpet Workshop, in Nam Village, on the road between Lhasa and Gongkar Airport, is a new Tibetan carpet workshop that uses only hand-spun Tibetan alpine wool to create both traditional and contemporary carpets. You will be able to see with your own eyes the process of making carpets and purchase them (prices for used carpets are reduced) in the showroom on site. You can ask questions and arrange a visit by calling the manager of the factory Norbu (☎ 1398 990 8681). The carpets created in the workshop are sold at Torana stores in Beijing and Shanghai. Photos and details can be found on the store's website.
  • Oil painting in Kharma Gallery, on the 2nd floor opposite the Snowland Hotel (☎ 86-891-6338013). The gallery features quality oil paintings by Tibetan artists on Tibetan themes (landscapes, people, religious sites, animals, etc.).
  • Gallery "Gedun Choephel" on the corner of Barkhor, to put it simply - at the extreme point from the Jokhang temple. It contains works by most of the avant-garde artists in Lhasa, few of whom are exhibited in Beijing and London. The gallery hosts rotating exhibitions and is well worth seeing.
  • Handicrafts at the Dropenling Handicraft Development Center, 11 Chak Tsal Gang Road (☎ 0891-6360558). Call for directions or walk straight from Barkhor Square to Lhasa Mosque, then turn left. The high prices justify the quality of the store-bought items made in Tibet. The profit goes to the development of handicrafts. Credit cards accepted.

Bars. Where to go

  • Travelers Bar. Located on East Beijing Road. A favorite place for travelers.
  • Low House Music Bar with traditional Indian, Nepalese and Tibetan influences. Located in the family home of the XI Dalai Lama.
  • Dunya Restaurant, Bar and Balcony is an establishment with a pleasant atmosphere run by two foreign women.
  • "Gang La Mei Duo". The walls of this establishment are decorated with canvases and watercolors on Tibetan themes, which you can purchase here.
  • Guge Tavern and Bar. The furnishings consist of stone stools and simple tables.
  • Gu Xiu Na Book Bar. Here you will be offered to read books on religious topics.
  • 7 Square-meter Bar, located at 83 Beijing Road West.
  • Shambhala (7 Jiri 2 Lane) has a Tibetan home decor.

How to get around the city

  • The central square with the main tourist attractions (Potala, Jokhang, Barkhor, Ramoche) is most convenient to “explore” on foot.
  • You can find bike rickshaws at every turn, but be prepared to bargain.

  • A taxi ride will cost RMB 10 in any direction within the city. Just stop the taxi at the side of the road. Be prepared to make room: the chauffeur will often drive up to the sidewalk in search of other passengers heading for the same location. Each passenger will pay 10 RMB, and this will increase the taxi driver's income, despite the fixed fare.
  • A city bus ride will cost you 1 yuan. Non-Chinese tourists are allowed to travel by bus within the city. You will even enjoy yourself as these trips are infrequent. The bus number is easy to find, but directions are in Chinese, so check in advance which bus you need.
  • Minibuses run to Norbulingka, Sera Monastery, Drepung Monastery and other nearby places. Many people follow the public transport route.
  • Pilgrim Buses can be found in front of Jokhang Temple or in the parking lot near the temple. They depart at 6-7 a.m. in the direction of Tsurpha Gompa, Ganden Gompa, Niemo (Dazi), Phenpo Lhundrub (Linzhou), Meldro Gungkar (Chinese Mozhugongka), Chushul (Chinese Qushui), Taktz (Dazi), Gongkar (Chinese . Gongga) and to other areas. Tickets can be purchased at the ticket office in the parking lot or when boarding the bus. Whether tourists of non-Chinese nationality can travel on such buses is unknown. If you are not Chinese, then you are traveling with a guide and you can ask him about it. After all, it is much more interesting to travel in this way than on a private "Land Cruiser". However, organizing tours involves following pre-planned routes, and most likely, you will not be able to use such a service.
  • Some hotels and shops provide bicycles, so if you have a few hours to spare on your schedule, cycling is a great way to “explore” the city. The air here is not as dirty as in most cities in China, but the roads have their own customs: the best way is to cuddle up on a bicycle or pedicab to chat.

For a long time I was going to do Chinese ornament, and finally I got this opportunity. I'll start with the most popular motif in Chinese art, the dragon.
His images are found in abundance on the beams of Chinese palaces and temples.

Let's see what Wikipedia writes about him.

"The Chinese dragon is in Chinese mythology and culture a symbol of the good beginning of the Yang (as opposed to the European dragon) and of the Chinese nation as a whole, strongly associated with the element of water. According to Chinese beliefs, the moon snake lives in rivers, lakes and seas, but is capable of soaring and in the skies. ”Rituals for causing rain were not complete without images of a dragon already in the 6th century BC.
Externally, the Chinese dragon is described through similarities: the head of a camel, antlers, demon eyes, snake neck, carp scales (there should be 81 or 117 scales), eagle claws, tiger paws and cow ears. However, the pictures often show a discrepancy with this description. On the head of dragons is their most important accessory - a bump on the top of the head, thanks to which they can fly without wings. However, it is rarely seen in images.

The Chinese have divided dragons into groups, in which each breed has its own distinctive characteristics. The four main dragon brothers Lun-wang appeared: Ao-Kuan, Ao-Jun, Ao-Shun and Ao-Qin.

The main dragon breeds are as follows:

Tianlong - Heavenly dragon that guards the palaces of the gods and carries them on chariots.
Futsanlong is the Dragon of the Hidden Treasure that guards the precious stones and metals underground and excites the earth with volcanoes.
Dilun is an Earth dragon who is in charge of the seas and rivers.
Yinglong is a divine dragon, on which the weather, wind, rain depend, and which thunders from the sky.
The last two types of dragon in the popular imagination have grown into the figures of dragon kings, which have a human body and a dragon's head. They live in the seas in the east (East China Sea), south (South China Sea), west (Indian Ocean) and north (probably Baikal).

Other breeds of dragons: Kowloon - scaled dragon (blue), Inlong - dragon with wings, Kowloon with horns (blue), Hornless Zhilong (red, white, and green), Panlong associated with the earth. Chinese dragons can also be black, white, red, or yellow colors, among which the latter is considered the most important. Every dragon is born from gold the same color as his hide. The age of a dragon can also be determined by the color of its skin. Yellow, red, white and black dragons - a thousand years, blue - eight hundred.

As the king of animals, the dragon served as a symbol of imperial power. "

MIRACLES OF THE GOLDEN DRAGON

Rangoon, the capital of Burma and the third largest city in the Indian Empire, can rightfully be considered the Mecca of Buddhism. East and West intertwined in its streets, forming a kind of exotic mixture. Modern office buildings coexist peacefully with gilded Burmese sanctuaries, and Buddhist monks in burgundy robes mingle with impeccably dressed tourists. However, the general atmosphere of the modern industrial ™ is not capable of completely destroying that serenity, which is an elusive, but most important element of Eastern life.

A traveler approaching Rangoon by river initially perceives the city as a mysterious mirage, with ghostly buildings dimly visible through the haze enveloping them. But the fog eventually dissipates, and a shining and iridescent stream of golden light suddenly falls from the gray sky. The source of light, this crystallized ray of sunshine, turns out to be Shuedagoun, or the Golden Dragon Pagoda - the most sacred and beautiful of the countless Buddha temples.

The Golden Dragon Pagoda, located to the north of the city, stands on top of a small hill that rises 50 meters above the level of the surrounding area. The specially leveled surface of the hill and the artificially built-up slopes form the platform of the pagoda, about 275 m long and about 215 m wide. You can climb the platform by four flights of stairs, one on each side of the world. The main entrance is on the south side facing Rangoon.

A tourist, approaching the pagoda from the south, is greeted by two massive griffins * - two brightly painted Burmese lions of grotesque appearance made of white plaster with an evil gaze of sparkling eyes. The entrance itself is an imposing structure in a typical Siamese style, similar in appearance to a pagoda, the roof of which is decorated with intricate carvings along the edge. Right in front of the entrance, you can almost always see a variety of shoes lined up in long rows; here local sandals tread on the toes of imported low-shoes, while elegant sports shoes and military boots sit peacefully alongside graceful high-heeled pumps and worn-out clogs.

Nearby, on a low, uneven wall, are seated flocks of Burmese boys; each holds in his hands an indescribable bucket of water and several pieces of rags. These young businessmen have invented a new kind of activity: they have adapted to washing the feet of tourists who are forced to walk barefoot through the corridors of the pagoda, because no one is allowed to enter Shuadagoun without first taking off their shoes and socks; in the East, this ritual is tantamount to taking off the hat when entering a Christian church. It is said that a law requiring tourists to take off their shoes was introduced in Burma solely because the practice was offensive to the British. In this peculiar way, Burma twisted the tail of the British lion.

The flights of stairs leading to the platform of the pagoda are fenced on all sides by walls and a teak roof, completely covered with intricate carvings; and, as soon as a barefoot tourist enters the mud-slippery, worn-out steps, he immediately finds himself in a real oriental bazaar of religious antiquities. Pilgrims who come here from all over the world to atone for their sins in this holiest place certainly want to take with them some souvenirs to remember their visit to the shrine. Demand, as you know, gives rise to supply, and therefore the road leading to the temple is dotted with small shops, where believers can buy crude figurines and lurid multicolored lithographs for five cents.

Climbing the stairs and passing through the quaint gates, the tourist finally finds himself on the platform of the pagoda, and such a stunning sight opens before his eyes that the language simply does not have enough words to describe its magnificence. Although the platform is actually rectangular, it appears to be a huge circle. The grand central pagoda is surrounded by a wide promenade *, where the facades are located on all sides of the rows of sanctuaries, decorated with ornate carvings. The middle of the promenade is lined with carpets, and most Europeans prefer not to leave this surface with pleasure.

Imagine, if, of course, you can, two hundred and fifty pagodas at once, each with a height of 3.5 m to 30.5 m, with its own original carvings, mostly gilded or covered with a layer of varnish. Hundreds of golden spiers shine in the sun, thousands of silver bells gently tinkle from the light breeze, and diamonds, emeralds and rubies worth millions of dollars sparkle and shimmer in the midday sun with all the colors of the rainbow - this is how Shuadagoun appears before you!

On the platform of the Golden Dragon, countless examples of architecture from forty nations are collected in artistic disorder. Strange sloping rooftops from Siam; fluted spiers from Indochina; amazing stupas from Cambodia; bell-like dagobas from Tibet; ornate pediments from China and Korea; quaintly carved towers and semi-circular domes from India and Ceylon all clustered around Shuedagoun's golden base.

Sculptural images of Buddha standing everywhere look out from each of their niches. There are also huge stone Buddhas sitting for centuries immersed in meditation; Teak Buddhas with lacquered faces in dark shiny robes; marble Buddhas in robes inlaid with gold; Buddhas of bronze and copper with emerald eyes and ruby ​​lips; little golden Buddhas and silver saints sitting in jeweled niches; Buddhas made of jade, amethyst, rose quartz and crystal. Buddhas differ not only in the material from which they are made, but also in postures: some Buddhas are sitting in meditation, others are kneeling in prayer, others are standing and preaching, the fourth are reclining and with half-closed eyelids awaiting the onset of nirvana. Here you can see giant Buddhas ranging in height from 15 to 18 m and Buddhas so tiny that they fit comfortably between the thumb and forefinger. In total, more than twenty-five thousand sculptural images of the "Light of Asia" are placed on the Shuedagoun platform.

Gilded bars are installed across the façades of many of the smaller sanctuaries. Behind these bars are Buddha statues adorned with priceless jewels; 25-cent diamonds burn on the foreheads of these statues, and their clothes are inlaid with fabulous precious stones. Some of these shrines are many centuries old, while others are still unfinished. Here and there some modern zealot erects a concrete shrine for a practical purpose, introducing a fair amount of absurdity into the overall harmonious picture.

On the platform of the Golden Dragon, not only schools of Buddhist monks were housed, but also monasteries that provide shelter for people affected by such ailments as leprosy and tuberculosis, who came here for healing. Monks with shaved heads and horse-tailed scepters roam tirelessly between the golden altars. They are considered the guardians of this world famous shrine.

People who are unable to appreciate the years of painstaking work spent on decorating gilded sanctuaries with intricate carvings tend to regard all this richest ornamentation simply as roughly made antique trinkets. However, regardless of the variety of individual impressions that arise when contemplating an incredible array of shining altars, everyone agrees on one thing: that the grandiose pagoda, towering in the center of the platform, is the perfection of beauty, simplicity and grandeur. The huge spire of Shaudagoun with a golden umbrella as the only decoration, gracefully curving, soars above the platform to a height of 113 m. In the strict simplicity of its outlines, genuine aestheticism is expressed. The numerous pagodas crowded around the base of the Golden Dragon look like a foothill surrounding a lonely inaccessible mountain.

The shape of the Shuedagoun Pagoda has a special meaning. The base is made in the form of an inverted bowl, which is used by priests in Asia to collect food. Above the base are the folds of the turban, from which a double lotus flower grows. The spire of the pagoda in the shape of a banana bud rises above the lotus. The pagoda, which dominates the city like a giant Christmas tree at night, adds a modern touch to this design. The perimeter of the base of the central pagoda is 416 m. Local bricks were used for the construction of the entire structure. The current "umbrella" forming the pagoda's canopy was erected in 1871. It consists of iron rings covered with gold plates and hung with gold and silver bells, the tinkling of which is clearly audible on the platform. The upper part of the umbrella is called "sein-ba", which means "bejeweled crown". The sein-ba is strewn with a mass of glittering diamonds, emeralds and rubies, as many wealthy Burmese Buddhists hung their personal jewelry on it even before it was lifted and placed at the top of the pagoda. And as soon as a sunbeam touches one of the huge stones, a bright flash of green, red or white light immediately dazzles the eyes of everyone standing below.

The first pagoda with a height of no more than 8 m was built on a small hill in 500 BC. e. Centuries passed, and the holy place remained in complete oblivion until 1446 AD. e., when the care of a pious ruler began its restoration. Since then, the building has increased in size and was kept in good order until 1776, when it acquired its present form. The huge stupa was repeatedly gilded and new layers of bricks were laid, which were then covered with gilding again, and therefore it is now impossible to estimate exactly how much precious metal was used to decorate the pagoda. The previous method of gilding, as not economical enough, was replaced by a new one, and now the pagoda is gilded using gold foil 3.2 mm thick, covering the surface of the brick with it up to the point where the spire emerges from the dome. It is difficult for a Westerner to imagine the colossal amount of work involved in lining a structure with a gold foil of 416 m in circumference.However, faith is a spiritual quality that manifests itself more vividly in Burma than in the Western world, and therefore the dazzling brilliance of the Golden Dragon has no other rivals except the radiance of the sun.

As always, the same question arises: why was this grandiose sanctuary erected? What does this holy place signify? If you ask a local monk about this, he will answer that the pagoda marks the place where the sacred relics of the four Buddhas are kept, and therefore it is the holiest of all like him. Indeed, somewhere deep under the Golden Dragon are hidden the greatest Buddhist shrines: the Krakuchanda bowl, Gaunagong's clothes, Kathapa's staff and eight hairs from Gautama's head. Where else are holy relics so carefully kept? In this peculiar way, Asia bears witness to its liberators.

Despite its overwhelming splendor, Shuedagoun Pagoda is absolutely out of harmony with the spirit of the great teacher, whose remains it serves as a safe depository. Buddha preached the immateriality of earthly treasures; according to his sermons, in order to discover Reality, a person must free himself from the illusion of physical existence and retire to the inner fortress of his own “I”. According to Lord Gautama, neither the pagoda nor the sanctuary contain any meaning, for they are part of an illusion, from which one must be able to renounce. For him, there was nothing real except his own "I", nothing absolute, except for the "I", and no real achievement, except for complete merging with this "I". And when he sat immersed in samadhi *, his consciousness merged with the consciousness of the universe. His mission was to teach people how to break out of the slavery of the illusion that comes from recognizing the parts, and thus achieve complete freedom, which is awareness of the whole. The revelation of the Golden Dragon says: "Asia loves its Buddhas and gives them their due, but Asia does not understand anything."

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The Golden Dragon Cave Temple (Wat Tham Mankhon Thong), famous for its "floating nun" attraction and its interesting caves, is located in the south of the city about 8 kilometers. You can get there by taking road 323 and then turning onto road 3429. The temple is easily accessible by bike, scooter, or car. We came here.

From the cycle "Around Thailand by car"

Temple Wat Tam Manchon Thon

The temple is located on a hill, to which a beautiful staircase leads. At the foot of the hill, surrounded by Chinese pavilions, a white fat man sits and looks into the distance in surprise

Not far from the stairs up to the temple sits such a fat kind-hearted man

After getting to know him, walk to the left and right of the stairs, there you will see the burials of urns with the ashes of the dead

Under the mountain to the left of the stairs is a small cemetery

To be laid to rest near the temple at the foot of the hill is considered an honorable work in the continuation of a righteous life.

But back to the stairs, recently renovated and very beautiful. Let's remember that a dragon is mentioned in the name of the temple. But where is he? Look closely and at the top of the stairs you can see his head

Dragon at the entrance to the temple, and on top - an elongated turret

And here he is. Handsome, isn't he?

The dragon's mouth hiding a long cave inside the cliff

In the mouth of the dragon!

But now he looks completely harmless, as evidenced by the tubs of flowers next to his head.

We have to go to his insides. Walk around the stairs to the left of his head, bow to the statue of the Golden Buddha, and you will find yourself in a wide mouth!

It is finished with smooth tiles and it is pleasant to walk on it, looking at the sitting Buddhas. The ceiling hangs over the floor and squeezes a little, hindering your movements. Indeed, as if the dragon swallowed you

It's cool inside the cave in the main hall

Let's hurry forward, falling down the throat.

And the dragon has it backlit with electric bulbs, and if you are generous, you will definitely pay for your comfort. After all, traveling inside a dragon in complete darkness is a dubious pleasure! Therefore, thank the hospitable dragon with a hard coin or a crisp piece of paper!

And his throat, whoa!

The second hall is well lit

Journey inside the dragon

There is even a small altar there and some old man, wise with experience, is sitting. He closely monitors who the dragon took inside, and shows the way, where to go next: go to the appendix, or straight to the stomach

Small altar

One of the corridors ends in a very narrow niche into which a person cannot climb

The dragon's stomach is great! Powerful stones are like millstones ready to grind any prey.

Narrow passage between stones

It is no wonder that the dragon's stomach will be bigger than a thimble! And oh, how much energy is required for games and growth! How can you help him? There is only one answer: delicious touristus vulgaris! But, fortunately, the dragon either stayed in nirvana, or he simply has no time for us today, he was not hungry, and allowed him to climb on his stomach completely safely. And you have to climb there like an acrobat: bending down, squatting, and almost crawling

Inside the cave, the distant chambers are not very comfortable.

Crawling their stomachs into the intestines, get ready for physical exercises to stretch all muscle groups. The intestines turned out to be exemplary, but somehow I didn't want to linger here, because the dragon could wake up at any moment!

Poor lighting drives faster forward

What's that sticking out? Bah, it's a metal staircase! According to which a whole and healthy researcher will crawl out of the dragon into the light of day. Who put it in the dragon's ass? But it's better not to think about it, but rather to get out!

The exit from the cave is via a vertical metal staircase

Went outside

And you will have to try hard, since the dragon is resting with its booty up, and therefore you will have to try if you want to get out. We went out and immediately move away, suddenly someone else climbs out of the dragon!

And outside it is so warm and comfortable, and even the refrigerator is right there. Maybe the dragon looks at him sometimes? And washed down with some water

Refrigerator for monks and cooler for everyone

But these comrades look completely calm. After all, they know exactly the mode of work and rest of the dragon, as well as the schedule of its nutrition.

Locals also come to visit the Dragon

They told us that today he had already eaten, and therefore we were worried in vain. So relax and see what else is there. For example, there is a Chinese pavilion

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