Travel to the baltics. Travel by car in the Baltics. Estonia. Latvia. Lithuania. Check tickets to Tallinn, or maybe Riga or Vilnius

I want to tell you how my friend and I ourselves, without agencies, visited the Baltics. I will not talk about the sights, only about the case. How to go yourself. This is my first independent trip.

At the time of our trip, such a tour of the three capitals of the Baltic countries cost 44,000 per person per week, and we got 23,000. Almost two days in each city. There is a difference!!! TIP: I always buy books from the Orange Guide series. A wonderful series. I take it with me on all trips when I go myself.

VISA. I must say right away that we decided to submit documents to the visa center. A little more expensive, but easier: if something goes wrong, they will still reprint the documents on their forms. For money. Documents are submitted to the embassy or visa center of the country where you will spend more time, namely nights, regardless of the sequence of visiting countries. We started from Lithuania, but we applied for a visa to the visa center of Latvia, because there were two days in Vilnius, but one overnight stay, and in Riga and Tallinn for two nights. The list of documents can be found on the websites. Along with the documents, be sure to bring copies of hotel reservations and copies of all tickets, insurance is required. Read carefully. For example, at the time of our registration, they did not accept hotel reservations from booking in Lithuania. Maybe something has changed. We booked on Hotels.com. There were not many people in the center, they handed over an hour and a half. We waited longer for the documents to be reprinted. After 10 days my husband arrived and took the passports with visas. When submitting documents, you mark who will pick it up. Very comfortably.

MOVING BETWEEN COUNTRIES: we chose the bus. Tickets were booked on the website.

Very user-friendly site. Buses take 4 hours on average. There is not much to see on the road. The buses were empty. Maybe it's not a tourist season, or maybe so lucky. We chose the afternoon, left at 5 pm, arrived at 9 pm, slept, and in the morning with fresh strength to walk around the city. Hotels were chosen closer to the center and to the bus stations, so as not to spend extra money on the road ..

HOTELS. We chose inexpensive ones with the expectation of only spending the night. Breakfast.

VILNIUS. Arrived by airBaltic. The plane is tiny: rows of 15, two seats across the aisle.

We flew perfectly. From the airport we took a bus to the Comfort Vilnius 3 * hotel. In Vilnius, there are two hotels with a similar name and we were a little misinformed by the locals, but from the same hotel

to our extra 15 minutes on foot. Found. The hotel is small but cute. For a night or two, no more. There was not even a closet in our room.

We took only breakfast in all hotels. The food was decent, the linen was clean. All attractions are within walking distance. They did not spend money on the road anywhere.

We arrived in Vilnius at 10 am, the bus to Riga was the next day at 16.30. From the hotel to the bus station on foot 10 min. Almost two days were enough to see the main attractions and just walk around the city. But the review is not about that. Travel yourself, fear nothing.

RIGA. From the bus station to the hotel 4 * on foot 10 minutes. The hotel is very good. When booking, we got a discount. Breakfast for slaughter, there was even champagne. There is no such breakfast in Turkish fives. Clean, quiet, 5-7 minutes to the center. The room even had an ironing board with an iron, kettle, tea, coffee. Bus to Tallinn at 17.00. Everywhere we went on foot, we did not spend on transport.

TALLINN. In Tallinn, from the bus station to the hotel 3 * by tram 10 min and walk 5 min. The hotel is not bad, but there is no shower tray in the shower, and water almost did not go into the hole in the floor and flooded the entire floor in the bathroom. But in a mock there was a mop, you know, with such an elastic band to collect water. But across the road is the Old Town and all the sights. Back to Moscow by airBaltic. By taxi 15 euros and in 20 minutes on the spot.

CONCLUSION: By yourself it is twice cheaper, you are your own masters, travel yourself and everything will be fine. We walked in all cities, I can’t say anything about the prices for transport.

Soon, very soon it's already New Year's holidays. Where to go for the holidays? The company "A-Renta" is ready not only to provide you with really inexpensive prices for car rental from Moscow, but also to submit ideas for holidays. For instance, why not arrange a romantic car trip in the Baltics?

Many treat the Baltics with disdain: they say, the countries of the former USSR, which zealously rushed to Europe, although there is no European smell there. There is nothing to watch, zero service, and the attitude of the Balts towards us, Russians ... to put it mildly, leaves. However, those who think so are fundamentally wrong. Let's try to break the prevailing stereotypes by driving a car across the Baltic states.

Traveling to the Baltics by car

Taking care of the documents in advance is a must:

  1. For those who go on a trip by car, it is necessary to issue a so-called Green Card, which will need to be presented when crossing the border.
  2. And do not forget that Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia are members of the European Union, therefore passports must have valid visas.

How to get there?

You can get to the Baltics in two ways: through Belarus and through the Leningrad Region. Residents of central Russia, as a rule, get through Belarus. Therefore, if you need a car to the Baltics from Moscow, then at the same time you can also look at some of our former out of the corner of your eye, as they say.

Tests at customs

The first and, perhaps, the only thing that darkens the journey by car is the incredible queues at the border with Lithuania. You can stand for 6, 8, 12 hours. This is as lucky as anyone. You need to be prepared for the fact that insolent drivers on cool cars with thieves' numbers pass through the queue. And for some reason they are allowed to pass.

Before the trip, it is better to "scan" the forums of auto travelers, where people share their observations and thoughts about what time it is best to cross the border.

The very procedure of inspecting a car and passports takes a little time.

Traveling in the Baltics ...

Lithuania

And the cherished stamps about crossing the border are in the passports: you are in Lithuania.

The most famous Lithuanian city, Vilnius, is a must-see. Do not be confused by the old five-story buildings of the Khrushchev era. Yes, they are the ones who will meet you at the entrance to the city. But the so-called Old Town in Vilnius is incredible:

  • cozy atmosphere,
  • small streets,
  • beautiful architecture of ancient buildings,
  • paved paths,
  • hospitable cafes - that's what you should visit Vilnius for!

In addition to visiting sights in Lithuania, you must definitely ride along the coast. Both Klaipeda and little-known Palanga are perfect for a seaside holiday. Palanga, by the way, is the largest resort city on the Lithuanian coast. And the prices for housing, as well as for food, are very bite there.

Latvia

You don't have to cross any borders to get to neighboring Latvia. It takes about four hours to drive from Lithuania to Latvia.

Naturally, the first city to see is stunning Riga. The old town in Riga is one of the most beautiful in all of Europe. There are incredible old buildings, cathedrals, squares at every step. An ideal place for romantic walks for two or for visiting with the whole family.

Cozy cafes are located here and there on small streets. The prices are truly European. A fairly modest lunch for three will cost no less than 50-60 euros.

The most important thing to know about Riga for those traveling by car is paid parking in the Old Town itself. You can leave the car for free only in specially designated places and only for a few hours. Usually at night.

When booking a hotel, it is important to clarify if there are free parking spaces, which, most likely, will not be included in the price. In addition to Riga, auto travelers are advised to look into Jurmala, Cesis and Liepaja.

Estonia

The last in line, but not the last in beauty, is Estonia.

Traditionally, start your acquaintance with the country from the Old Town in Tallinn. There are a lot of incredibly beautiful towers, town halls, fortresses and cathedrals. The center of the Old Town is the famous Town Hall Square. The place is truly amazing: once you find yourself there, it is as if you are transported to the Middle Ages. It seems that a little bit more and a knight will gallop up to the square from the neighboring street on horseback.
By the way, many cafes that are located in the Old Town at every step are decorated in a medieval style. The prices are quite high. The closer to the Town Hall Square, the more expensive.

Another must-see place in Estonia is Tartu. A very beautiful city with one of the oldest universities in Northern Europe. Take the time to get to Haapsalu - the "Venice of the North" in Estonia. Haapsalu will amaze you with its small streets and cute wooden houses.

Sharing impressions

So, the general impression of the Baltics:

  1. Incredible, beautiful, atmospheric.
  2. The tracks and roads are perfect, everything is very clean and comfortable.
  3. Ancient buildings and churches are amazing.
  4. They treat our compatriots very well, they are always ready to help suggest a route or any other question.
  5. Cafes and restaurants have a menu in Russian. The waiters are very welcoming and friendly. They are constantly asking if everything is good and if they liked the ordered dishes.
  6. Almost everyone speaks excellent Russian. The only exception is young people. She hardly speaks Russian.
  7. Hotels for every taste and budget, and there are almost always free places. (It is better to book the room you like for the night, if you wish it can always be extended).
  8. Be sure to take warm clothes with you. Even in summer it can be very cold in the Baltics. Nature is especially capricious in Estonia: it often rains there, the temperature in July-August can reach as little as + 16-17 degrees.
  9. Cons: long border crossing from Russia and back. And also the prices in the cafe: they are quite high, designed for wealthy Germans and French, of which, by the way, there are a lot of them.

How to travel to the Baltics on your own, without the services of travel agencies. It's easy and simple, because almost everyone there speaks Russian, so you won't have any problems with communication. It is enough to make a foreign passport and open a Schengen visa to one of the three Baltic countries. We also recommend that you compose your own route in the Baltics, be sure to include Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia in it. If someone will convince you that any of the three countries is the most beautiful, then do not take our word for it, because each country is unique and has its own flavor.

What to take with you when planning an independent trip to the Baltics. Of course, you need to bring your passport with a valid Schengen visa. Insurance for cars, those passport and green card. Several credit cards from different banks and a supply of cash will be, by the way, in case of unforeseen circumstances. When going on a trip by private car, it is better to take 2 navigators with different maps, because one navigator may get lost or have outdated maps.

Itinerary for an independent trip to the Baltics

The trip to the Baltics starts independently from Lithuania. Crossing the Lithuanian border, we immediately head to the city of Vilnius. It's just a stone's throw from the border, so you can catch a lot of things to see almost immediately after crossing the border. The city is quite small but very interesting. In the architecture of the city you will find the Baroque style, in which as many as 9 churches were built. The wall in the city and the church are made in the Renaissance style. As many as three Catholic churches are made in the Gothic style. Be sure to visit the old town, which has retained its charm over the centuries. The narrow winding streets of the old city are paved with cobblestones and are considered pedestrian, but some are allowed to drive. True, we do not recommend going to the old city in your own car, a taxi will cost cheaper and faster, because your car still needs to be parked somewhere.

Trakai

Next stop in the city of Trakai, the former capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Who knows the history will understand how unique this place is. It is only thirty kilometers away, so you can safely plan a visit to it for one day with Vilnius. The city is famous for the Trakai Castle, which is surrounded by water, because located on the island. You will not find more such castles in Europe. Just for the sake of one castle, it's worth coming to Trakai.

Kaunas

After seeing the castle and the city of Trakai, we go to Kaunas. It is a fairly compact and very well-worn old town, where you will find a large number of monuments and attractions. In Kaunas, you can easily spend a whole day exploring and admiring the city's sights.

Klaipeda

It is not difficult to travel to the Baltics on your own, especially when there is a ready-made route. Then our route takes us to Klaipeda. By the way, the city has a very interesting maritime museum. If you are in the city with children, then go to the dolphinarium. For those who love to sail, there are two whole yacht clubs where you can rent a boat, boat or yacht for any time.

Palanga

Palanga is a resort that does not need to be advertised. all tourists in the world know it. The resort is located not far from Klaipeda, so we are heading there. In recent years, Palanga has greatly changed thanks to new comfortable hotels and guest houses. The most beautiful place in Palanga is the botanical garden, which houses the Tyshkevich Palace. There is an amber museum and a souvenir shop on the territory of the palace.

Liepaja

We cross the border and find ourselves in a Latvian town called Liepaja. The royal family loved to relax in this city, and today it is a favorite place for musicians to relax. Constant concerts and musical performances attract more and more tourists every year. The city has a zoo that is open all year round. We recommend that after exploring the city of Liepia, go to the Rudel Castle. The castle is just a stone's throw from the next destination, so it fits perfectly into our route.

Saldus

The town of Saldus is not particularly remarkable in any way, but its suburb will be very interesting. Here In the outskirts of Saldus you will find Kalnsetas Park. In the park you will find old manors and monuments from the reign of German barons, which is very interesting and informative. The river Ciecere, which flows through the park, offers many water activities and excellent fishing.

Jurmala

Of course, after Riga we go to Jurmala, since it is just a stone's throw away, one might say, a suburb of Riga, only 25 km away. Here we recommend staying for a few days to relax in a truly legendary resort that has a lot to offer the local tourists.

Sigulda

After resting and gaining strength, we go to Estonia, and on the way we will stop at the last city of Latvia called Sigulda. There are quite a few ancient castles in the city and the largest cave in the whole of Latvia. From Sigulda we will reach the next stop in Estonia in an hour and a half.

Tartu

Tartu is a hospitable youth city. It houses the largest number of universities in Estonia, which means the largest number of young people, which is why it is a city where life is constantly boiling. The history of the city is more than a thousand years old. The combination of modern student traditions and the medieval flavor of the city is unique and unrepeatable.

Tallinn

Just 185 kilometers from Tartu is Tallinn, where we are going. Tallinn, like Riga, offers us a lot of interesting things, so it's worth staying in this city for a few days in order to get to know it a little closer. We recommend that you draw up a separate route to the sights of Tallinn in advance, since there are quite a few of them.

Raquery

On the way home, it is worth stopping by the town of Rakveri, where the ruins of the Order's castle have been preserved. The city has a museum and an open-air concert venue. You will have the opportunity to see the very old mill, which is still working.

Kuremäe

Next we go to Kuremäe. The Orthodox Holy Dormition Pyukhtinsky Convent is located here. Quite an interesting and famous place. It is here that an oak grows, on which the image of the Assumption of the Virgin appeared. By the way, this is the only monastery in Estonia that is subordinate to the Moscow diocese.

Toila and Narva-Yesu

Our final stop before crossing the border is Toila and Narva-Yesu. Toila is a very beautiful resort, although it is not very advertised. Narva-Yesu is a beautiful city with its own beach, several kilometers long.


see also

- this time the girl shares her ready-made travel plan in Latvia. Wandering around Riga and lying on the beach in Jurmala is a great program, but are you sure that you will learn a lot about the country from such a trip? Castles, waterfalls, lighthouses, gingerbread towns - where else to go and what to see in Latvia - the word for Masha.

Why Latvia?

Latvia became the first European country, the trip to which I completely planned myself. We wanted to go to Europe, but we were limited in money and time - only ten days, so the choice fell on the Baltic countries. Initially, we were going to go around Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia, hitchhike between them, but buy bus tickets to one of the countries - to make it easier to get a visa. The cheapest flights were to Latvia - and the fate of the trip was decided.

Now I can say that Latvia is an ideal country for those who want to travel to Europe for the first time, but are afraid of the language barrier and do not want to spend a lot. But even experienced travelers will find it interesting here. Alas, Latvia is often underestimated. Our compatriots and neighbors often perceive it as an intermediate point on the way to “real Europe”. Europeans, on the other hand, go there to get a glimpse of the post-communist country. But do not think that after wandering the streets of Riga before a low-cost airline flight or lying on the beach of Jurmala, you really saw Latvia.

I got the impression that this country is seriously investing in the development of tourism. I would describe it with an English proverb: "If you can" t have the best make the best of what you have. " world-famous architectural monuments, impressive natural attractions or places with a very ancient history - for example, only two points from Latvia are included in the UNESCO list, but in every more or less attractive city there is an information center, and twenty Latvian beaches have been awarded the Blue Flag (quality mark and It turns everything even a little bit interesting here: from ruined forts to the telescope of the radio astronomy center. Looking at such a careful attitude to our history, I would like to express my respect to Latvians and even slightly envy them.

"Everything that is even a little interesting is turned into an attraction here: from destroyed forts to the telescope of the radio astronomy center"

How to get there?

We went to Riga from Moscow by bus LuxExpress for € 35 per person. The return ticket was taken to St. Petersburg, for € 17.5. Ecolines are also transported from both cities to Latvia. If you plan your trip in advance, you can save money. Thus, the minimum price of a LuxExpress ticket from St. Petersburg to Riga is about € 13. There are also trains running from Russia to Latvia: the “Latvia Express” branded train from Moscow to Riga costs from € 40.5, a regular one from St. Petersburg - from € 37.5 ... Travel time in both cases is a little more than 16 hours.

You can also get from Minsk to Riga by bus. The state carrier "Minsktrans" will take you to Latvia for € 14.5. There are also offers from private companies: LuxExpress runs once a day, the ticket price is from € 10, Ecolines has several flights, the price is € 23.8. Don't forget about discounts for youth and students!

Ecolies travel from Kiev to Riga, but the way will not be close - as much as 30 hours on the way. A one-way ticket will cost € 50. It will be much faster and easier to fly on airBaltic - about 2 hours on the road and about € 100 per ticket.

Lodging

For ten days in Latvia, we have not spent a cent on housing thanks to couchsurfing. Finding a host in Riga is not difficult: the site has more than 700 users from this city who are ready to receive guests. In other settlements the situation is different: in the second largest Daugavpils the population is seven times less than in Riga, in the third largest Liepaja - nine times. In the cities where we were, there were usually no more than ten active hosts - so I advise you to contact them in advance. We managed to find a "rubber" in Riga, Liepaja and Kuldiga, a couple of times we spent the night in a tent.

Accommodation prices in the Latvian capital are pleasing: a night in a hostel - from € 5. In other cities, everything is not so pleasant: the cheapest option from Booking in Ventspils - from € 10, in Liepaja - from € 12, in Kuldiga - from € 19, and in Cesis - from € 25. If you prefer to explore the country at a dynamic pace and want to save money, you can, like us, make Riga a transit point. Distances in the country are very small: if you wish, you can move out of the capital in the early morning, explore some city and return to the night.

Transport

We traveled around Latvia by hitchhiking. According to our host from Liepaja, who has traveled around sixty countries in this way, hitchhiking in his homeland is one of the best in the world. I would not give such a high assessment, but I confirm that it is convenient and quick to hitchhike around the country. The average waiting time for our couple was about 10 minutes, the maximum is an hour. It was a pleasant surprise that many drivers are willing to spend a little time and gasoline to get you right to your destination. Once the driver not only drove us an extra fifteen kilometers to the point where the not very popular road led, but also left his phone number at parting so that we could contact him if we could not catch anyone on the way back.

In addition to hitchhiking, we tried intercity trains - we drove from Riga to Sigulda (about 50 kilometers). The ticket costs € 1.9. We were driven by a quite comfortable, albeit slightly painted train. You can check the schedule and routes on the company's website Pasažieru vilciens (PV).

Intercity buses go where you cannot get there by train. A ticket from Riga to Sigulda costs € 2.75, to Ventspils - € 7.55, from Liepaja to Kuldiga - € 3.85. Check the schedule and prices, and on a separate portal you can buy tickets online, but with a surcharge.

National cuisine

Rye bread is loved in Latvia. So much so that they not only eat it, but also add it to various dishes. For example, you can try bread ice cream or bread yogurt with prunes. And also bread soup, which, oddly enough, is not eaten for the first, but as a dessert. It is prepared from dried fruits and bread itself and seasoned with cream. Another local dish is made from rye flour - sklandrausis - an open pie with vegetable filling (usually from boiled potatoes and carrots, mixed with an egg and sprinkled with sour cream).

As a main dish, I recommend gray peas, which are prepared with onions and smoked cracklings. And for dessert, taste the Old Riga (Vecriga) cake with curd cream.

Most of the Latvian cuisine can be tasted in the restaurant Lido, and we bought Old Riga cakes and bread yoghurts in supermarkets.

Tongue

There is practically no language barrier in Latvia: as a rule, the younger generation speaks English, the older generation speaks Russian. Of all the drivers who gave us a lift, we had to communicate in English only with one - a Dutchman.

Only once did we have difficulties with communication. In Kuldiga, we wandered into the working canteen, which by some miracle got into the guidebook. Only locals dined in it, the menu, as from a school cafeteria, hung on the wall and was only in Latvian, and food was poured from huge pots and pans, so there was not even a chance to understand what was there. I turned to the woman on the distribution in Russian, and she answered in Latvian. I repeated my question in English - and then she switched to Russian.

The language situation in the country is closely related to the historical context. After the collapse of the USSR, only 2/3 of the population of the country received Latvian citizenship - citizens of the pre-war Republic of Latvia and their descendants. The rest - mainly Russians, as well as Belarusians, Ukrainians, Lithuanians, Poles and a number of other peoples living in the territory of Latvia - received the status of “non-citizen”. In 2013, there were about 80 differences in rights between citizens and non-citizens: for example, the latter cannot take part in elections, hold a number of positions, there are economic and other restrictions for them. To obtain the status of a citizen, it is required to go through the “naturalization” procedure: to take an oath of allegiance to the country, pay a fee, and pass an exam on knowledge of the Latvian language, constitution, anthem and history. At the same time, back in the 90s, the Russian language ceased to be the state language.

At the moment, a little more than 10% of people still live in the country who have not received citizenship: someone considers the procedure itself unfair, someone is not ready to pay the fee, someone does not know the language sufficiently to pass the exam ... However, not all Latvians like the fact that people live in their country who do not want to master the state language and speak it. According to a 2005 survey, 47% of Latvians believed that the interests of Russian speakers in the country were taken into account even more than they should. On the other hand, 68% of Russian-speakers believed that their rights were infringed upon. To this day, relations between the two nations within the country are slightly electrified.

Route

In the visa center of Latvia we were provided with a couple of guidebooks, I also found a lot of information on the official tourism portal of Latvia. Initially, I wanted to fit all the Baltic countries into a ten-day trip, but after studying a dozen booklets and websites, I realized that there was simply not enough time for Lithuania and Estonia.

I marked points of interest to us on the map, and a route emerged: arrival in Riga, inspection of the country to the east of it, then to the west, and finally returning to the Latvian capital, from where the bus was going home.

Riga and Jurmala

Riga became the first European capital where I visited. I was delighted with everything: organ music from churches, paving stones and tiled roofs, prices in euros ... But no, they were rather upsetting. I went through a bunch of guidebooks, and did not want to miss any of the recommended points there. I enthusiastically wandered around the Town Hall Square, tried to fit into the frame the houses nestled close to each other, called the Three Brothers, and looked out for black cats on the roof of the house, the owner of which, in revenge for the elder who had not accepted him into the merchant's guild, turned the sculptures with a fifth point towards his window. However, about Riga has already been written in detail in.

Of the places not mentioned there, I would recommend Latvian Ethnographic Open Air Museum (Brīvdabas iela 21) , where more than a hundred old wooden buildings were brought from all over the country. During the warmer months (from May to September), entrance for adults costs € 4, for full-time students - € 2; in the cold (from November to April) - € 2 and € 1.4, respectively. In the summertime, artisans demonstrate their skills on the territory of the museum. We spent almost half a day for a walk and had an inexpensive lunch in a tavern on the territory of the park.

“I was delighted with everything: organ music from churches, paving stones and tiled roofs, prices in euros ... But no, these were rather upsetting”

I also advise you to go inside. Latvian National Library (Mūkusalas iela 3) ... Although she is considered ugly by many locals, she looks quite cute on the inside. You can see the building along with a guided tour in Russian, which is booked by phone on weekdays and costs € 2. I walked around the library for free with our host, seeing floors from 1 to 8. The library's website says that on Sunday 11th and 12th floors are also available for visitors.

We visited Jurmala on the eve of departure, and it seemed to us rather boring from an excursion point of view, although there are more than a hundred monuments of wooden architecture of national importance here. But it is well suited for a resort vacation: a third of Latvian beaches that have received the Blue Flag are concentrated here, and the total length of the landscaped coastline is 26 kilometers.

Sigulda

We went to Sigulda for the sake of castles, of which there are as many as three: medieval Turaidadestroyed Krimuldaand more modern Sigulda palace... Half a day will be enough for a leisurely walk between them, while you will admire the views of the Gauja River valley and will be able to appreciate several objects that are unique for Latvia.

First, it is gutman's cave (57.176235, 24.842062) 18.8 meters deep, 12 meters wide and 10 meters high. Those who are fond of speleology or have just been once in caves, such dimensions are hardly impressive, but this is the largest cave in the Baltic countries. Secondly, Krimulda Castle can be reached from the opposite side of the river by the only cable car in the country. The views are magnificent, but the price for 7 minutes of travel is unreasonably high - € 8 one way. You can jump with a bungee right from the tram cabin, but the pleasure is even more expensive - € 60.

For fans of extreme sports, Sigulda has other entertainments: for example, a 1200-meter-long bobsleigh track and an obstacle course at a height of 20 meters in the largest adventure park in the Baltics, Tarzāns.

Cesis

Cesis is one of the oldest cities in Latvia, more than 800 years old. Its main attraction is the largest in the country castle of the Livonian order, which is also called Vendensky, after the people who lived in these places.

For the entrance to the Cesis Castle in the summer season (from May to September) you need to pay € 4 (for schoolchildren and students - € 2.5), in the winter (from October to April) - € 3 (€ 1.5). For visiting the museum in the new castle, you will have to pay € 2 (for schoolchildren and students - € 1). We bought a full ticket, but came to the conclusion that it was possible to limit ourselves to the castle.

I not only climbed the entire building, going down to the prisoners' dungeon, but also watched the work of blacksmiths, learned about medieval cuisine from the gardener and took part in the entertainment of that time - I practiced fencing with a wooden sword and took a dozen steps on stilts. When walking through the castle park, I advise you to find a wooden "box" where the dismantled monument to Lenin, which used to stand on the main square of the city, lies.

Liepaja

This seaside town in western Latvia boasts the largest mechanical organ in the world and the third largest port in the country. Today the harbor is used only for trade, but before a third of the city was occupied by a military port - in Latvian “Karosta”.

The construction of the largest naval military base in the Russian Empire began here at the end of the 19th century. It was from here that in 1905 the Russian fleet went to the Pacific Ocean to participate in the Russo-Japanese War. But the location for the base was initially poorly chosen - only 40 kilometers from the border with a potential enemy, Germany. Soon the First World War began, and all defensive structures were destroyed by order of the commander of the Baltic Fleet - fearing that they would fall to the enemy, they were never used. The blown up forts have survived to this day and are popular with tourists.

In Soviet times, submariners were based here, and "Karosta" became a closed military town. Now this area can be visited by anyone and admire the architectural contrasts - imperial buildings and typical Soviet houses, abandoned, unfinished or inhabited. We wandered here to visit museum-prison "Karosta" (Invalīdu iela 4) ... On the official website, this place is positioned as "the only prison in Europe open to tourists", "from which no one escaped." But this does not indicate the security or scale of the structure: in fact, this is a clever advertising move. From tsarist times until the end of the last century, there was not a prison here, but a guardhouse, where military personnel were serving disciplinary sentences. The maximum term of imprisonment did not exceed a month, so there was no point in running away.

The guardhouse managed to serve the Russian Empire, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union, and after it was abandoned, local enthusiasts decided to turn the building into a museum. The admiration for how diligently and creatively in Latvia they use those opportunities to attract tourists that they have, for the first time came to me here. For € 5 you can visit a regular tour, where they will take you through the cameras and tell about the history of the place, and for € 15 you can even spend the night. Large groups, by appointment, can experience all the delights of prison life by participating in the show "Behind Bars". Although children are allowed on the excursion, and the guide constantly makes jokes, the guardhouse has retained its gloomy atmosphere.

Today Liepaja is the musical capital of Latvia, where the festival takes place every summer Summer sound... Thanks to this, the city also has new attractions - the glass concert hall "Big Amber" and the Walk of Fame of Latvian Musicians. It took us less than a day to explore all these places, despite the fact that we also managed to swim in the Baltic Sea on the city beach marked with the Blue Flag.

Kuldiga

Kuldiga is perhaps the most comfortable city in Latvia that I have been to. Only 13 thousand people live here, it can be walked from edge to edge in an hour, and the historical center of the city is included in the UNESCO national list. But we came here primarily for the sake of two waterfalls.

First - Alekshupitsky waterfall (56.969851, 21.975383) on the Alekšupite river - it looks very nice, but it impresses poorly, although with a height of 4.5 meters it became the highest in Latvia. Second - Ventas-Rumba (56.967965, 21.978900) on the Venta River - it was awarded a higher rank: its width from 100-110 meters to almost 280 in high water made it the widest in Europe. But do not imagine the Latvian Niagara: its maximum height is just over two meters, so it looks more like a river rapids than a waterfall. It is best to come here in spring or autumn to watch migrating salmon "in flight" overcome Ventas Rumba.

Ventspils

I got my first impression of Ventspils on the way to it. The woman who gave us a lift told us about the local amusement park and its key object - the ski mountain "Lembergs' Hat". The mountain is notable for the fact that it was created on the site of a landfill: the landfill was mothballed, processed, covered with construction waste, covered with sod, planted with grass and equipped with jumps and lifts. The rubbish heap, which has turned into a popular holiday destination, was named after the long-term mayor of Lembergs.

One of the mottos of Ventspils is “a city with a future”. Indeed, one does not feel the depression and devastation, which is usual for the provinces. Progressive trends are illustrated here not only by the story of the landfill. So, in 2002, the city took part in the Cow Parade - an international art event, in which art workers create creative sculptures of cows and exhibit them in different parts of the city. After that, the monuments are sold at auctions, and the money goes to charity. Ventspils became the first city in Eastern Europe to take part in the parade. Of the 26 cows that adorned the city during the campaign, only six were not sold. But the parade inspired the residents and the city authorities, and soon new cows began to appear on the streets, and in 2012 the Cow Parade was repeated again. Walking around Ventspils, you constantly come across sculptures of artiodactyls: from a fashionable cow admiring herself in the mirror, to a police cow or a cheerleader cow watching football on TV with the owner. These works of art not only cheer up the locals, but also attract tourists.