Marquesas Islands: Hiva Oa and Tahuata, Paul Gauguin, baguettes and tattoos. Cheap flights to hiva oa
After 33 days at sea, Khiva Oa seemed truly a paradise. But this is an exceptionally superficial impression - in my opinion, he loses significantly to his neighbors Nuku Khiva and Wa Pou, and when I write stories about them, you yourself can see for yourself. And now for us it was really a local branch of paradise!
As we said earlier, we did not start the engine, so we entered the bay on sails and did not dare to go deeper - we got up at the very beginning. As it turned out later, absolutely no difference where to stand in this bay - the waves are reflected from the steep coastal walls and the pitching is felt at every point of the bay.
Using the walkie-talkie, we asked for a guard on the subject of a check, but it turned out that the ship came and they were all busy, then the weekend came and we had to wait until Monday. And on Monday it turned out that they don’t have to wait at all, but rather we had to go to the city ourselves and take shape ... But we did not waste time in vain:
First things first, a shower turned up on the shore, and we desalinated ourselves with great pleasure. (Point 1)
Secondly, there was a store on the shore with new food and nishtyaki))) (Point 2)
Thirdly, it is a tap with drinking water! Yes Yes! You can drink water without boiling and fears! We immediately completely restored the water supply! (Point 2 - from the back of the store)
Fourth, we went on an excursion to the city, visited the Gauguin Museum, bought food. By the way, in Polynesia, just a gorgeous stew! And on the way back we saw an orphaned tree Pamelo, hung with fruits, and could not resist, having typed a backpack for themselves (The local name of this fruit is Pamplus)
On Monday, as law-abiding citizens, we entered the gendarmerie to complete the entry procedure. Despite the fact that we made all the visas and came by boat, we were offered to pay the so-called “bond”. The fact is that in French Polynesia it is accepted that every tourist must have either a PAID plane ticket or pay a refundable security deposit - a bond in the amount of 2300 euros per person. Needless to say, we simply do not have that kind of money? However, other moves always and everywhere exist - we were given a business card by the local agent Sandra. Her residence is located at Point 3. There she also distributes the Internet at $ 5 per hour, can deliver fruits and takes laundry.
Sandra said she could easily solve our problem for 300 bucks, and there would be no need to pay any bond. And she decided - she gave us a letter with which we came to the gendarmes, after which we were immediately issued.
Now about the good points.
Fishing! Not even that, FISHING !!! You can catch as many fish as you like on a fishing rod! These are mainly small mackerels, horse-eye fish and small sharks. (Later, after trying fishing on other islands, we realized that fishing was weak here), but after unsuccessful fishing in the Pacific, it seemed to us just a gift from heaven!
Beautiful views and nature!
We went on an excursion to the petroglyphs of the ancient Polynesians. ABOUT! It was extremely difficult - to go far, sometimes knee-deep in mud, and the muscles atrophied strongly during 5 weeks of lying.
I bring a map of how to get to these very petroglyphs. I am still amazed how we found them in the middle of the jungle!
Point 1 - turn from the road to the trail
Point 2 - farm, go around it on the right
Point 3 - a fork, go left along the river, after 100 meters there will be a ford.
After the ford we go left, and not straight, the path to the left is barely visible.
Point 4 - a clearing with a bunch of stones overgrown with moss, we go along it up to a dry stream, along which we go all the way to the very end, until we see a stone with petroglyphs - Point 5.
Point 6 - Grove with fruit trees Carom (Star Frut). These are the most delicious and juicy cannons in my life! I used to think that this taste is not very good, something like an unripe apple, but after this grove I realized that I just did not try a good cannon. This is just a divine, delicious fruit!
Additional Information:
1.Internet two types
–Sandra at the residence $ 5 per day next to the parking lot, but very slowly, especially when a lot of people gather
In the city, there is a ManaSpot access point at the post office. Also $ 5 per hour, but great speed.
2. The cost of products in a store in the bay is almost identical to the shops in the city, baguettes can only be bought in the morning.
3. Gauguin Museum - you can visit only for show - there are only reproductions and a little antique styling - it’s not interesting.
4. The level of tides is of the order of a meter, so tie the dinges taking into account this fact - a bunch of nails stick out under the walkways. It is imperative to delay the anchor, although this throws up new problems in the form of a hooked anchor - the bottom is very dirty.
And more beautiful views of Khiva Oa for additional impressions:
After 17 years of living on Hua Hin Island, Patrick, FO5QS moved to Hiva Oa Island, IOTA OC - 027, Marquesas Islands and will be active as FO5QS.
He will operate on HF bands CW, SSB, digital modes.
Country DXCC - Marquesas Islands.
Hiva Oa Island
The island of Khiva-Oa is the second largest and most famous of the islands of the Marquesas archipelago. It is not easy to get here: the distance to the nearest mainland is a little less than five thousand kilometers, and to Tahiti - a little less than one and a half thousand. However, the island of Hiva Oa is a popular holiday destination. And not only the pleasant climate and the opportunity to swim in the Pacific Ocean, but also the beautiful nature and interesting sights of the island attract travelers here.
Atuona, Hiva Oa Island, Marquesas Islands. Photo by Rita Villaert.
A bit of history
The Marquesas archipelago, including the island of Hiva Oa, was discovered in 1595 by the famous navigator Alvaro Mendanya de Neira. However, for a long time, the Europeans were in no hurry to settle on the island. The reason was not only the remoteness of the Marquesas archipelago from civilization, but also the aggressiveness of the natives and the endless wars between the indigenous tribes.
France annexed the skeleton in 1842, in 1855 the first attempts to Christianize the local population began.
In 1904, Khiva-Oa became the administrative center of the Marquesas Islands, and in 1940 the capital was transferred to the island of Nuku Khiva.
Hiva Oa Island, Marquesas Islands. Photo by Scott.
The last refuge of Gauguin
French painter Paul Gauguin is one of the most famous inhabitants of the Marquesas islands. It was on Khiva-Oa that the artist spent the last years of his life and wrote a lot of paintings here that brought him world fame.
One of the most important sights of the island is the house of Paul Gauguin in the center of Atuon. The house was renovated in 1994 and now it houses a museum.
Both floors of the building are built of bamboo. Above the front door are two inscriptions: "Be mysterious" and "Be happy." And a little higher - the inscription "House of Pleasures." Here, the artist and his young Tahitian wife lived the last two years: from 1901 to 1903. Gauguin led a reckless life, repeatedly clashed with the church authorities of Tahiti and Hiva-Oa, in his "House of Pleasures" he arranged revels with absinthe, which the artist brought sailors.
Despite the depressing poverty (fame came to Paul Gauguin only after his death) of the disease, including leprosy, constant depression, it was on Khiva-Oa that the artist’s best works were written.
Not far from the "House of Pleasure" is the tomb of Gauguin. The painter, who glorified the nature, customs and beauty of the women of Oceania, was buried on the side of a hill with a breathtaking view of the Pacific Ocean. A tombstone is decorated with a copy of one of the sculptures created by Gauguin.
Hiva Oa Island, Marquesas Islands. Photo by Brian Lefebvre.
Fascinating landscapes of Oceania
The island of Hiva Oa is ideal for lovers of privacy. The local population does not exceed two thousand people, there are few hotels on the island, and an additional advantage are amazing landscapes.
Here you can admire the steep cliffs and lush tropical vegetation, take a walk along the coast, where sandy beaches give way to rocky bays, admire Temetiu, over the top of which fogs often swirl.
It will be interesting to get acquainted with the customs of local residents. Many of them still live in traditional houses made of bamboo and wood. In similar buildings lived the ancestors of the aborigines, one hundred and two hundred years ago.
Part of the population is engaged in agriculture, another - works in hotels.
Things to Do in Hiva Oa
The island has good conditions for practicing various sports. You can go hiking, cycling or riding a bike, diving or mountain climbing. Tourists are offered horseback riding, as well as excursions to neighboring islands.
And, of course, it is worth trying the delicious dishes of Polynesian cuisine. On the island there are many restaurants and cafes that offer rice, seafood, meat and fish dishes and, of course, surprisingly delicious exotic local fruits.
The main attractions of the island
In addition to the house of Gauguin, the island has many other interesting objects. Most of the attractions are concentrated in the main city of the island - Atuone. This settlement is conveniently located on the banks of a picturesque lagoon, and it is worth taking a walk along its streets, which have not changed much since the time when Paul Gauguin walked along them.
In Auton there is a restored temple of Taaoa, where when praying to local gods, and near the city, right in the rainforest, there are basalt sculptures. These are cult figures worshiped by indigenous tribes.
In the east of the island there is another interesting object - the village of Kuamau. There are preserved buildings on the site of tribal assemblies of the Marais, as well as iconic wooden and stone sculptures of the Tiki people.
In general, they do not come to Khiva-Oa for the sake of the excursion program. This corner of the world attracts travelers with its picturesque nature, unusual culture and the possibility of privacy.
Video Hiva Oa Island
These islands are considered the most inaccessible place on Earth. Despite the fact that Polynesia always personifies dense vegetation, the Marquesas Islands are very arid. And this is in view of the fact that they are in the tropical zone. The only exception to the rule. It is all about the eastern winds that arise in the driest course.
Rains are extremely rare here and only at high altitudes. Such a climate greatly affects the water supply system of the districts. This is very noticeable in the sparsely populated parts of the islands and the almost impossible life on Eiao.
Scientists officially believe that the islands were formed from volcanic rock.
The largest islands of the archipelago:
Niku Khiva Island
This is a magnificent island with an area of \u200b\u200b330 square meters. meters. Of the entire system of islands, it is the largest. Over a million inhabitants live here. They live a normal life, work in government positions, attend the Catholic Church. Some engage in fishing, raise livestock, and grow plants.
The life of the island flows according to ancient traditions, and ceremonies and ceremonies of ancestors are still held. They are an amazing sight to see. On the island is the small village of Tayohe. This is the cultural center of the entire archipelago. There is a post office, administrative buildings, a hospital, a small town hall, banks, schools and other infrastructure elements.
Weekend recognized holidaywhen the whole local population drives their cars along the coast from one neighbor to another. Outdoor games are held for men, and women play bingo under the shade of trees.
From the huge hill of Muake, a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside opens. Tourists will be interested in the Cathedral of Our Lady, which contains statues and sculptures from each of the islands of the archipelago.
Another attraction of the island is the Hakaui Valley. Here you can plunge into the warm waters of one of the highest waterfalls 350 meters high.
The Taipivai Valley is famous for its enchanting landscapes with numerous waterfalls, forests, rivers. This is the most fertile place on the island, rich in archaeological finds. Here were found stone statues of local gods called Tiki.
The famous writer Robert Stevenson (Treasure Island) loved to visit Hatiheu. It is located on the seashore and has a very picturesque view. During excavations, they found gathering places for pre-Christian inhabitants of the island, plates for ritual dances and mysterious petroglyphs on huge stones.
And finally, a piece of paradise - Anaho Bay. Only a few families live in the bay. These places are simply created for a beach holiday.
Hiva Oa Island
Khiva Oa is the most fertile of the islands. It is washed by the waters of the Pacific Ocean. The island is famous for its dense forests, hills and valleys. Here is the administrative center of the southern part of the islands, called Atuona.
The city is famous for “Bay of Traitors”. It provides coastal protection and is a parking for yachts and ships.
Atuona is provided with all the infrastructure necessary for human life. There are schools, banks, shops, and even a boarding school, created with money raised by Catholics. The most famous attraction in these places is the Calvari Cemetery.
Here you will see only 2 graves in which Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel are buried. Descendants of the artist Gauguin still live on this island. On tiva hiva also found. One of them has a record height of 8 feet. Petroglyphs carved on the rocks were found in neighboring villages.
This place is famous for its beaches with pure black sand.
Wow Pou Island
The name of the island is translated as “Pillars”. The area of \u200b\u200bthe island is 108 square meters. km
The entire territory of Ua Pou is crossed by a volcanic ridge. The coastline of the ridge is unsuitable for recreation, but some bays have ennobled, making them convenient parking for ships.
The south of the island is famous for its Gulf of Hohoi. There you will see magnificent "flower stones". They are called “Floral” because they are painted with natural colors in a pattern resembling a variety of flowers. The pattern is best seen when the stones are wet.
But the most famous attraction is the basalt columns located in the gulf of Wah Pou.
In some parts of the island, "paepae" were found - entire complexes of walls and numerous bridges.
Wah Hook Island
The island is located 50 kilometers from Nuku Khiva and translates as "reserve of the Gods." This is a huge desert plain and the only living inhabitants here are goats, sheep. Life for a person here is very difficult, as there is a lack of water. But then why does the island have such a "fertile name"?
There is an assumption that once there lived more than 8000 people, and around there was a splash of water, and the foliage rustled. In support of this, numerous archaeological artifacts have been found.
Despite the complexity of life, the island has one single settlement, Vaipaee. It is proud of its museum of archaeological finds. It contains luxury goods, clothing, tools and many other items found during excavations on the island.
Local authorities began to create a plant nursery, restoring the island’s flora.
Wa Hook is famous for the best beaches in the entire archipelago. They are covered with soft white sand and attract many tourists. Horseback riding paths were erected near the beaches.
Tahuata island
The name of the island is translated as "dawn", but the population nicknamed it "island of birds." It is located near Khiva Oa and is divided by the strongest currents from other islands. The area is 60 km.
There are no ennobled harbors here; all ships moor right to the shore.
There are 4 settlements on the island, one of which has a rich history. Here you will find an old Catholic church with wonderful architecture and three monuments to the Spaniards who arrived in 1595 and were victims of a clash between the French and the local population.
Fatu Khiva Island
Fatu Khiva is located south of the Marquesas islands. It was not for nothing that the population called it the "Garden of Eden." This is the most fertile and rich in greenery place. The fruits grown here are exported to most countries of the world. Some of the best craftsmen in all of Polynesia live in the settlements.
Among the attractions here are worth visiting basalt peaks and numerous petroglyphs.
