Pass 1a category of difficulty. Difficulty categories in mountaineering and mountaineering. Reference. Arrays of Damhurz, Juha, Magisho and Gento

Report
   about mountain tourist training
   campaign of the second category of difficulty
   in the Western Caucasus,
   by a perfect group of tourists of the Serpentin mountain tourism club (Sochi)
   July 11-24, 2008

2.8. Technical description of the route

Rise at 6:20. Partly cloudy. The state of the group is fighting.

Duritsky pass was visible to us from the lane. Ak-Air East., Now, accordingly, we see him from the parking lot.

We leave at 8:00. Right in front of us is a U-shaped scree grassy saddle. This is a false pass Duritsky, it leads to the valley of the Belaya River. Our pass is located to the left (west) and is hidden from us by a destroyed rocky ridge. We follow the path along the bottom of the circus and climb to the next terrace of the valley. We adhere to the left side in the direction of travel. Tours are stacked at the places where talus emerges. At 8:48 we stop for a 10-minute halt on the next terrace. Passing through a wide snow-covered gutter formed by the main ridge and an old ram’s forehead at the bottom of the circus, we come out to pass take-off.

Passing take-off from the east is a conglomerate scree with a steepness of 30-40 degrees with a length of about 100 m, which is flattening up. At the time of passage in the upper part was a small snowfield.

At 10:10 the group climbed the pass. The Duritsky pass 1A *, 3000 m, is located in the Arkasar ridge, connects the valleys of the Amanauz and Burnaya rivers (a tributary of the Big Laba), has an orientation of W-W. It is a wide (about 50 m) talus saddle of destroyed rocks. Tour in the middle.

In the east we see the dominant century. Pshish, to the right of it is visible the city of Chuchkhur, still to the right of the city of Sofia. In the west, the city of Dukka Bashi is visible in the ridge of Arkasar, per. Dorbun, Dr. Burnaya, Dr. B.Laba.

In the tour, a note was found of a group of tourists from the Citadel tourist club, Belarus, Brest, dated August 18, 2008, who made a trip to the 2 st.

At the pass we eat a chocolate bar, take a picture, leave a note and at 1050 start the descent.

The descent begins in the southwestern part and is a scree 50 m long.

The steepness is up to 40 degrees, the talus is shallow, mobile. Then the exit to the snowfield is of the same steepness, which flattens down the valley. Crossing a pair of snowfields and scree, we make a halt at 12:25 at the bottom of the valley of the right tributary of the river. Stormy under the per. Dorbun.

We are consulting the whole group about the further path of movement. There are two options. First: go down to the confluence of the right and left tributary of the river. Stormy, then go up the left tributary to the circus of the passes of the Poachers and Vorontsov-Veliaminov. Second: On going down to the merger, cross the buttress separating the right and left p. Stormy.

Having consulted, we accept the second option, considering it more interesting and panoramic.

Then we go south, starting the traverse of the scree spur of the ridge. Climbing the spur, we find out that the ridge is single, and cut by talus lobbies into rays converging in the upper part. We are on the northernmost ray. The extreme southern ray is turned towards us by a large number of simple rocky outcrops on a steep grassy slope, the overcoming of which will require considerable expenditure of forces. Therefore, we climb up our ridge to the point of convergence of the rays. The steepness of the slope is about 20-30 degrees. Cross the snowfield.

We go along the ridge of the not melted snow pressurization of the ridge and cross the pressurization of the upper part in the place of its flattening and go to the ridge separating the tributaries.

We cross the ridge, which is of medium steepness, large-scale scree, and we have a panorama with a view of the Vorontsov-Veliaminov glacier and the river valley. Stormy. The climb path to the per. Vorontsova-Veliaminova.

At 13:20 in this panoramic place we stop at a halt to enjoy the beauty of the views. At 13:40, we begin the descent from the ridge, represented by a grassy-talus slope with a steepness of about 30 degrees. At 14:00 we stop on a shallow grassy terrace, where we stop for lunch. From the terrace we can clearly see the lane. Poachers, where we soon notice a group of D. Timofeev

In the parking lot there is a powerful stream, where we take water.

We watch the group of Timofeev D.V. coming down from the pass When they descended below the level of our terrace, we establish voice communication with them. Having talked and learned the latest news, we return to our business. Because we have two half-walks left to go, during lunch we dry things, rest.

At 16:35 we get down from the place of lunch by traverse down the uncooked middle-stone scree to the lake in the circus per. Poachers. At the lake 16:50 a small halt.

At 17:00 we leave along the inclined talus plateau of the retreating glacier to the right of the nunatak, which separates the two branches of the Vorontsov-Veliaminov glacier. We plan to go to the left-bank moraine, where according to the description there are places for overnight stays. Steepness up to 15 degrees. Going under the slope of the moraine, we find sites for three tents.

There is a brook nearby, so at 17:15 we stop here for a halt. As it turned out later, there really are many sites for tents on the ridge, but no water.

We set up the camp, we have dinner at 19:30. Partly cloudy. In the evening, tours approached the camp.

The group is in good condition.

Notes:

1. The technical complexity of sections given in columns 2, 3, and 4 and the ways to overcome them are characteristic only for this category of difficulty of passes and do not occur when overcoming passes of the previous categories. The presence of sections of any length with the complexity characteristic of the passes of the previous categories is allowed.
2. Under the insurance points are meant the places (positions) of fastening and etching the rope with an ice ax, hooks with carbines, rock ledges, ice columns, over the shoulder, lower back, etc., necessary for hanging the railing and for insurance going first on the rise and last when the descent.
3. The presence of potentially dangerous sites (rockfalls, avalanches, ice landslides) does not affect the category of difficulty of the pass and should be taken into account in the tactics of passage and in the selection of equipment.
4. To pass passes of any category of difficulty in winter conditions or with deep snow on the slopes, it is additionally required to have avalanche cords (20 m) for each participant and avalanche shovels, one for every 2-3 people.

The categories of passes are not enough to know, they must be felt. On a non-categorical quietly you go along the path uphill, then from the mountain, a sort of walking trip. 1A is the simplest of the categories - self-insurance is enough. This is when you insure yourself - with alpenstock or, because with a backpack, our jumping and mobility suffers greatly. Well, constant attention - you need to think over each step with your foot, taking into account the slippery surface, and "live" stones and moving loose. On more complex passes, one already needs so carefully trained in knots, harnesses and railings.

Emotions are also important in the mountains. With heavy loads, people are not so kind, someone restrains anger, someone tears. And then you watch a video of another group - a girl climbs a rope and smiles. - Why is she without a backpack? - I couldn’t, the boys raised for her. And he smiles, and when you could not drag your backpack you did not want to smile at all.

Knees are a weak spot, but not for everyone. The load on them is large, especially on the descent, and some wrap their knees for prevention with elastic bandages. Others suffer from hip joints and it’s worse - you don’t wrap them anymore.

There is one more nuisance you may encounter - sprain on the foot. Neither rescue nor caution helps - when you, along with a 16-pound one, are literally blown away by the wind when moving along the slippery valleys of spilled streams, you can get such a nuisance that you will feel six months after the hike.

Starmeans a possible categorization of the pass, depending on the conditions of passage.
Sunday sign   means increased avalanche hazard.
   "Khibiny fall"- November," the Khibiny winter spring"- December-April.
   The classifier was created by Konstantin Beketov.

This list contains brief information about the passes located on the territory of the Caucasus Nature Reserve. The eastern border of the Reserve runs along the waterways of the river. Damhurz and r. Bolshaya Laba, and captures the territory of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic; the southern one passes either along the lateral spurs, or along the Main Dividing Range within the territory of the Kasnodar Territory. The western border is on the western and northwestern edge of the Lagonaki Plateau. In the north, the border extends along the systems of the Rocky and the Forward ridges.

This list was created on the basis of the previously published List of mountain passes in the Krasnodar Territory and the Republic of Adygea (I. Butvin, A. Samoilenko, 1997), taking into account the information and clarifications accumulated over the past decade.

This list provides information on 172 passes, while 71 passes (ie the largest number) have difficulty category “1A”. These are natural obstacles that are easy to overcome: talus, rocky and snowy slopes with a slope of up to 30 ° or shallow glaciers without cracks, or steep grassy slopes. There may be trails on the approaches to these passes. The simplest passes - non-categorical - are presented in the “List” in the amount of 45. The number of passes “1B” - “2A” of the difficulty category is 43. These are uncomplicated and medium steep sections (up to 45 °), where the use of special climbing equipment is sometimes necessary. Complex passes, “2B” - “3A” of difficulty category, are presented in the amount of 13, which makes up only 7.5% of the total number of all described passes.

The passes in the list are grouped according to local sections of large mountain ranges or their groups, according to established tourist-climbing mountain lists, and also depending on the absolute height. For each pass, the list contains the following data: serial number within the subarea; name of the pass; height in meters above sea level (data are given either by marks on topographic maps, or by altimeter readings); the category of difficulty of the pass in the summer and the nature of the main sections determining the difficulty of the pass (rocks, talus, ice, snow, grass, forest); river valleys, lakes, glaciers that connect the passes. The note provides additional information: information about the ascent (who and when), geographical features, historical and toponymic information.

In the “List” the following local sections are distinguished:

(Lagonaki Highlands, Fisht-Oshtenovsky Massif).

  (Amuko massif - Big Chura - Achishkho, Tybga massif - Dzhemaruk - Chugush, Assara ranges- Vorobyova - Dzitaku -   Urushten, Dzhuga-Bambak massifs).

3. Arrays of Thatch - Acheshbok.

4. The eastern part of the Caucasian reserve (pseashkh massif, Chelipsi-Alous-Yatygvart massifs; Aishkha ridge; Rocky massif; ridge Tsahvoa (Herzen); Kardyvachsky mountain junction; massifs of Yukha-Damkhurts: Imereti mountain junction; ridges Aibgin and Acetuks).

5. Arrays of Magisho-Gent.

Briefly consider each of them.

1. Northwest part of the Caucasus Nature Reserve

Lagonaki Highlands it stands out in the system of mountains of the Western Caucasus as a separate structure and adjoins from the north to the GKH in the region of the Belorechensky pass and Chigursan lane. Located in the interfluve of the Belaya and Przekhi rivers. Borders are drawn along the cliffs of the Nagoy-Chuk massif and the Montenegrin plateau in the west, the rocky ledges of the ranges of the Stone Sea and Azish-Tau in the east; in the south, the border passes through the Guzeripl, Armenian and Belorechensky passes. The highest point of the highlands is Mount Fisht (2868 m). The total area is about 700 km 2.

The Lagonaki Plateau is a small remnant of the vast environment of a non-mountainous country that once existed in the Caucasus. The modern surface is a kind of kuests due to the monoclinic bedding of the strata. Some of the passes (Maykopsky, Geymanovsky gates, etc.) are located at the places where limestone cliffs form vertical walls on the surface.

A mountain group fringes the southern edge of the highlands Fisht-Oshtenovsky massif . This structure resembles a huge impregnable fortress. The arrays of the Fisht and Przekho-Su mountains are bounded on almost all sides by rocky cliffs and huge glacial circuses. A little away from them is the Oshtenovsky massif, which is connected to Mount Fisht by the bridge of the Fisht-Oshtenovsky pass (2205 m).

In total, we collected information on Lagonaki on 15 passes, including 13 non-category, 1 - 1-A, 1 -1-B ct. Heights range from 1463 m to 2675 m (Oshten saddle).

From time immemorial, trade routes to the sea went through some passes. In the pre-war era, the famous 30th All-Union route “Across the Adygea to the Black Sea”, which crossed the Guzeriplsky lane (1965 m), Armenian (1852 m), Belorechensky (1782 m), Cherkessky (1836 m), began to operate. A little later, the 825th All-Union Planning Route (Maykop-Lazarevskoye) began to function, starting on foot from the Lagonaki t / b and then following through the lane. Azish (1775 m), Abadzesh (2043 m), Oshtenovsky (2117 m), Maykop (1950 m), Chigursan (1889 m).

2. The western part of the Caucasian reserve

Arrays Amuko - Big Chura - Achishkho.The Amuko Ridge with the peak of the same name of 1918 m adjoins the GKH from the south-west in the vicinity of the Bolshaya Chura mountain. The length of the ridge from west to east is about 10 km. The 1st Amuko pass with grassy talus slopes, located in the southwestern shoulder of the Amuko Mountain and connecting the Agva River (Sochi River Basin) and Ushha (Sochi River Basin), is classified. In the offseason, 1-A grade is estimated.

The Bolshaya Chura massif is located in the axial zone of the Main Watershed and adjoins the Amuko Range from the eastern side. The highest point is Mount Big Chura (2250.7 m). The massif has steep southern and western slopes, relative elevations are up to 1000-1100 m. Above the 2-km isoline are open areas. The Achishkho massif also belongs to the system of ridges GVH and rises from the north-west over the village. Krasnaya Polyana, the highest point is Mount Achishkho - 2391.4 m. From different sides cattle driving or hunting trails rise to the massif. The “List” contains 4 passes, simple and affordable. Achishkho district is distinguished by what is considered the wettest place in the country. Clear, sunny days here are only 60-70 a year, and often 4–4.5 thousand mm of precipitation falls annually.

Tybga-Dzhemaruk-Chugush Massif connected to the Achishkho massif by a wooded bridge of the Colchis Gate. Located in the northern spurs of the GKH. The highest point of the massif is Mount Chugush (3237.8 m). In our opinion, it is also one of the most western peaks-three thousandths in the Caucasus. This is a real world of highlands with peaked peaks of rocks, relatively powerful (by the standards of the Western Caucasus) mountain glaciation, large talus, snowy slopes, "ram's foreheads". It is difficult to get here from the south, from Krasnaya Polyana you need to spend 2.5 - 3 days to get to the Chugushsky glacier. From the north, from the village Guzeripl to the Tybga mountain (3064.6 m) is about 40 km long. A total of 19 passes were passed and classified, the highest of which was K. Yu. Golgofskaya (2A, ~ 3060 m), the lowest - Turovy (n / c, 2071 m), connecting the Sennaya camp with the village. Guzeripl. A major role in the development of this massif belongs to Maykop pedestrian tourists. In honor of one of them - A. Kh. Bagov, the first master of sports in tourism in the Republic of Adygea, one of the passes was named.

Assar Ranges - Vorobyov - Dzitaku - Urushten located next to the southeast from the Tybga-Dzhemaruk-Chugush massifs. If the 1st ridge is located in the axial zone of the GKH, then the rest are its northern spurs. This is the heart of the reserve and, in addition, very inaccessible. Passes through this ridge lead mainly from the Achipse river basin to the Kisha river basin. The length of the ridge, having a horseshoe-shaped, 7-8 km. On the northern slopes in the cross-shaped depressions lie glaciers. They, in combination with rocky-talus slopes, create certain difficulties in overcoming depressions in the ridge. The passes here can be rated 2A-2B ct. In hr. Vorobyov known 4 passes, the most difficult of them - 2A. In the upper reaches of the Kitayka River, the right tributary of the Kisha River, there are the lowest glaciers in the Caucasus, whose languages \u200b\u200bfall to 1710-1800 m. Paths to the Vorobyev and Eight passes pass through them. In hr. Dzitaku is one of the impassable classified passes - Camel (2690 m), estimated at 3A grade It connects the origins of the Kitayka River and bass. Laura River. The main difficulty is overcoming the 150-meter rocky ice discharge from the north side and the increased rock hazard of the slopes due to the heavily destroyed rocks. Some of the passes in this part were first passed and described in the scientific and sports expedition "Caucasian Reserve-94", one of the leaders of which was the author. Among them: Sinerechensky (2A, 2750 m, speed / ice / OS), Nadozerny (1B-2A, 2682 m), Osypnaya (1A-1B, 2405 m, grass / OS / speed) - in the ridge Jitaku; Koshkareva False. (1B, 2740 m, speed / ground / grass.) In the range Urushten.

To the north of the above juga Mountain Junction - Bambak . From the south, it borders on Aspidny lane, from the north along the Solonets ridge, the western border runs along the Kisha river valley, the eastern border - along the dol. Urushten River. The highest point is Mount Dzhuga (2975.9 m). On the northern slopes of Dzhugi several small glaciers occur. Well-cleaned nature trails lead to the junction from the Kisha cordon across the lane. Aspidny and with the lane. Damn Gate. A total of 7 easy passes are classified, including three 1A ct. and three n / a.

3. Arrays of Thachi-Acheshbok

Thachi Range - Acheshbok - Chests located in the system of mountains of the Front Range on the border of the Caucasian Reserve. The relief is kuestoobrazny, the northern slopes are mainly grassy, \u200b\u200bsteep (up to 40-45 °), the orientation slopes are 150-250-meter rock bastions. A well-filled path follows the crest of the ridge. In total, 5 n / a passes with heights of 1951-2150 m.

4. The eastern part of the Caucasus Nature Reserve

Massif Pseashkha   relatively well studied by climbers, tourists, scientists because of its accessibility. From Krasnaya Polyana in 1.5-2 days you can reach the camp "Cold" (the valley of the Urushten river) and the upper reaches of Malaya Laba. From here to the peaks and passes at your fingertips. The western border of the massif runs along the lowest low in the Main Dividing Line, which separates the basins of the Urushten and Laura rivers. This is the Pseashkh pass (n / a, 2014 m). As early as 1845, a Russian officer, Baron Tornau, penetrated through it from the valley of the Urushten River to Krasnaya Polyana. He subsequently wrote: "This plain inconspicuously leaning on one side to the northeast, on the other to the southwest, formed a turning point." The pass, as noted by Yu.K. Efremov in his remarkable book, "The paths of the mountainous Black Sea", is truly outstanding. He is a valley type. You can go to the saddle for half a day and think to yourself: “When will we finally come?” So here the crossing point lies on the barely visible convexity of the bottom of a flat valley.

The Pseashkha massif stands out for its compactness, peaked peaks, by local standards, and powerful glaciation (filed by V.D. Panov, the area of \u200b\u200bPseashkho lane is 1.8 km 2 and the length is 3.1 km). 10 passes were studied here, except for the simple lane described above. Pseashha is the lane. Builders (1B, 2800 m), per. Neftyanik (1B, 2940 m), per. Marble (1B *, 2800 m) and others. To the first two from the side of the Chistaya River, the path often runs along the Kholodny glacier, one of the longest in the region. The Marble Pass is an increased danger during rains (again from the side of the Chistaya River).

Arrays of Chelipsi-Alous-Yatyghvart   very picturesque, but rarely visited by people. The highest point is Mount Chelipsi (3097 m). The Alous Range, meridionally elongated from south to north, separates the basins of the Achipsta and Chelipsi rivers, there are practically no paths on it. The pass covered 15 passes, of which one of the most difficult - per. Chelipsi Zap. (2A, 2811 m). Through the lane In the war years, Alous and Mastakan passed the line of defense, and in the 60-70s a planned hiking trail operated. The Tryu pass (n / a, 2330 m), connecting the Yatygvart massif and the ridge. Skirda is a classic example of a saddle just below the altitude of the pass.

Aishha Range - This is a section of the GKH from Aishkha Pass to Pyaterykh Pass. It is a long (about 30 km) and seemingly gentle chain of meadow peaks, between which there are shallow depressions of saddles. A trodden path runs along the ridge. Five passes n / a - 1-A grade are known here, heights are in the range of 1965-2625 m.

Of particular interest ridge Tsahvoa (Herzen)   - a watershed between the Damkhurts and Tsakhvoa rivers, located in the northern spur of the Main Range, adjacent to it in the region of Mount Tsyndyshha (3139 m) and having a length of 16 km. The highest point of the ridge is Mount Tsakhvoa (3345.2 m). This peak is considered the highest point of the Krasnodar Territory. There are several peaks that exceed 3100-3200 m above sea level. The slopes of the ridge are very steep, and in some places steep, dissected by deep steep valleys, streams and gullies. The valleys of the tributaries of the Bezymyanka and Tsakhvoa rivers form crossbars, through which it is very difficult to climb. In the ridge, only 12 passes were passed from 1A to 3A grade

Relatively well studied Kardyvach mountain junction   - famous tourist-climbing area. 18 passes were mastered, including n / a -3, 1A - 12, 1B - 2, 2A - 1. The maximum height is 2850 m, the lowest mark is 2100 m.

Imereti Mountain Knot   For a long time it remained a poorly studied and deaf area of \u200b\u200bthe reserve. However, over the past decades, the situation has changed, and so far 16 passes from n / a to 2B ct have been taken into account here.

Ranges Aibgin and Acetuksky   merged into one subarea. Its length is 35 km, the highest point is Mount Agepsta (3257 m), has a pan-Caucasian extension and stretches south of the GKH, divided by the Mzymty valley. 10 passes of various difficulty categories were certified: from n / a to 1B ct, the height of the passes ranges from 1500 to 2600 m.

5. Arrays of Magisho and Gent

Mountain knot Magisho - Gent   located partially on the border with the Republic of Karachay-Cherkessia. The highest point is Mount Magisho (3160 m). From the valley side of the Bolshaya Laba River there are good transport entrances. Cattle driving and hiking trails have long passed through Umpyr and Magisho passes. Alpine meadows are natural pastures for livestock: horses, sheep.

Conventions and Abbreviations

1953,9   precise elevation
1950   approximate elevation
~2600   indicative elevation
(Zero Picket)or   / ur Agepsta /   name option, usually equivalent
(bass. R. White)   explanation of the location of the object
[Dzishsky]   historical name (toponym)
"Flower bed"   rarely used toponym
[?] there is no exact localization of the toponym
FROM   - north 3   - west YU- south IN   - east
sowing   - north   app.   - western south   - south east   - eastern
ch.   - the main [th], center.   - central [th],   knots   - nodal [th] B.   - big [th], M.   - small [th] top   - top [s] lower   - bottom [s] right   - right [th], a lion.   - left [th],
trans.   - pass   ice.   - glacier [ice. № 21   - glacier number according to the ″ Glacier Catalog ... ″] g.   - mountain   in.   - top   P.   - peak hr   - the ridge, GVH   - Main Dividing Range
lake   - lake   R.   - a river   ruch.   - stream, d.   - river valley,   bass. R.   - river basin
ur   - natural boundary

Conditional reductions in the category of difficulty passes

herbs, (tr.)   herbaceous
sk.   rocky
os   scree
forest.   forest
ld   ice
sn.   snow
n / a.   not categorical

Note: All heights and anchors are given on a topobase of scale M 1: 25000

All cards are opened by clicking on a large size (2-3mb)

Article navigation:

Lagonaki, Fisht-Oshtenovsky massif

Amuco - Bol. Chura - Achishkho

Tybga - Dzhemaruk - Chugush

Assara - Vorobyov - Dzitaku

Dzhuga - Bambak

Thach - Acheshbok

Massif Pseashkha

Chelipsi - Alous - Yatygvarta

Rocky massif, Aishkha ridge and Tsakhvoa (Herzen) ridge

Kardyvach mountain junction

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