The Rybachiy Peninsula is the place where the land ends. Peninsula fishing, abandoned and coveted Peninsula fishing map with settlements and

My summer car trip was supposed to be a trip to the Caucasus, the main event of which was to climb Mount Elbrus. But in July, about a month before the start, a friend from St. Petersburg called and spoke with enthusiasm about the Rybachy Peninsula in the Murmansk Region, in the north of the European part of Russia: “The ocean, of extraordinary beauty, fields of mushrooms and berries, abandoned military units, strategic targets times of the second world - a lost world ... ". His story aroused considerable interest, and I began to think about the opportunity to go there. But, of course, not this time. And if in this, then a good reason was needed.

And such a reason has appeared. It became the rains that were expected in the Elbrus region at the end of summer. I don’t know how the forecast turned out to be true, but .., in general, I easily changed direction from south to north. The circumstances were such that at the same time I was going to go to Rybachy from St. Petersburg with a company, a good friend of my St. Petersburg friend. They agreed that we can join him.

According to the calculations of the navigator, there are two routes of approximately the same travel time leading from Moscow to Rybachy. One goes through Peter, the other through Vologda. The length of the first is about 2100 km, of the second order 2000 km. But the first, a little faster than the second, since the Moscow-St. Petersburg highway has a number of paid high-speed sections. Routes go around Lake Onega from different sides and converge in its northern part. Next is one road - to Murmansk.

I needed to go to Peter. The road to it from Moscow is well known to many. In recent years, it has become better: there is more good asphalt and fewer areas with a strong speed limit. The path to St. Petersburg, which is 700 km, takes almost a day, if not in a hurry. Night in St. Petersburg. In the morning to Murmansk. The road to him is generally not bad. There are places with repairs. There are many rather than few cameras, both stationary and mobile. Sometimes there are DPS patrols lurking on the sidelines. The track is notable for the surrounding rocky Karelian nature, an abundance of mirrors of lakes and swamps of swamps, sometimes leaving the horizon. Closer to Murmansk there is less forest, the landscape begins to turn into the tundra.

On the way to Murmansk we spent the night with a friend in Kirovsk. The city stands apart, about 30 km from the highway, in an array of Khibiny mountains, well known to skiers. Having returned from Kirovsk to the highway, about 200 km remained to Murmansk.

They must go to the peninsula, as they say, taking everything. There are no shops there. The Murmansk supermarket is not much different from the Moscow one - the assortment and prices are about the same. At gas stations, the price of diesel fuel is about 3 rubles more than the capital.

When we were still on our way to Murmansk, 160 km from St. Petersburg, we stopped at a store at a plant in Potanino that produces canned meat. They bought stew. I can say with confidence that it’s tastier than this, I didn’t eat any other stew. Glory brought to the store. The same, good friend of my friend, with whom we were going to travel around the Fisherman. By the way, Slava knows the peninsula and its history well. Once there was a military unit in which he served in the army. During his service, he was so inspired by Rybachiy that for many years now he has been coming there every summer. At the same time, Slava has extensive experience in operating off-road equipment. Now he drives a remodeled with his own hands under the off-road camper "Sable." Glory became, in fact, our guide, and his car was at the head of the column, the first exploring off-road. But about the fisheries off-road later. I’ll tell a story related to it. My St. Petersburg friend, seeing the new Mitsubishi Pajero Sport that I arrived at, was seriously puzzled by how to avoid or at least minimize the damage that he believed was waiting for the car in our upcoming trip. He walked around the car and said: “We need to remove at least the bumper. Well, and so, in general, I do not know, are you ready to leave him there? Or let's leave it here and go on my pickup. ” His seasoned American pickup was standing nearby. I can’t say that it didn’t worry me, but I just said that I was not going to rush into the embrasure. “Well, right, if we turn around and go home,” he summed up joylessly.

The fisherman is not connected to the mainland, he is connected by a narrow isthmus to another peninsula called the Middle, which is already moving into the mainland. Therefore, in order to be on Rybachy, you need to go through the Middle. As you know, during the Soviet era, the peninsulas were in a closed territory, where a whole cluster of military bases was created. In the "zero" entry for civilians opened, but on special passes. From 2009 to this day, at the Titovka checkpoint (PPC) only a passport is required, and they can see what is transported in the car. The checkpoint is located on the Kola highway, passing through Pechenga, about 160 km from Murmansk. A point stands in front of a bridge over a river. Almost immediately behind it is the right ramp onto the dirt road. Having turned on it, you are not yet on Sredny, about 25 km to go to it, and then about the same until Rybachy. But you can assume that your journey begins at this point.

The road to Rybachy is either curling with a serpentine, moving from hill to hill, then straightens. There are no difficult terrain here. But this path is not easy. It will become a test for your nerves, because a significant part of it is continuous bumps. Going round them is useless. I can give only one piece of advice: to fix all the things in the car, because shaking, if you can call it shaking, will be strong. At first I tried to drive slowly and look for the least deep holes. But at some point I really wanted it to be over soon, and the principle of “more gas - less holes” was applied. And I find it difficult to say which of these two methods will be better for a person. The second option, in addition to reducing time, makes it possible to feel like a participant in a rally raid. True, if you have a solid SUV that has not been tested by time, then the principle of "with gas" is probably not worth applying.

They say that bumps were formed due to heavy military equipment that comes here for military exercises. On the way back we were almost participants in these events. The soldiers, as it seemed then, imitated the clearance of the road, they were covered by a tank, and then, from behind the turn, our Pajero Sport appeared. We stopped thirty meters from the tank, and its tower turned to us with the barrel of its guns. It was a joke or following orders, I don’t know. The sensations were ambivalent.

The region where Rybachy is located has a rather rich history, but acquaintance with him often turned out to be connected precisely with his military past. Vivid impressions of the beauty of the local species continually break off memorials with stars - the memory of the dead soldiers of the Soviet army in the Great Patriotic War.

On the isthmus connecting the Middle with the mainland lies the granite ridge Mustatunturi. The northern front line passed along it. The place is legendary, the only one where the Germans could not break the front line. From one of the officers who defended him, the famous Soviet writer Konstantin Simonov took the image of a hero for his work “The Son of the Gunner”.

Rybachy played an important strategic role, since he controlled the entrances to the Pechenga - in the west and to Motovsky and Kola - in the east of the bays. The protection of the entire Kola Peninsula with the city of Murmansk and its ice-free port depended in many respects. The capture of this Arctic territory was one of the most important tasks for the German command. It was supposed to be carried out by the army "Norway", formed from two German and Finnish corps. The capture of the peninsula by the Germans was expected from the sea. In this regard, on the eve of the war on Rybachy and Sredny, a number of defensive structures were created.

As you know, the western part of the peninsulas from 1920 to 1940 belonged to Finland. This was the result of two Soviet-Finnish wars. As a result of the first of them, in 1920, our country ceded to Finland part of its territories. The second war provided the USSR in 1940 with a significant expansion of its borders in the Finnish direction, including the return of formerly given lands. Fortification of the Middle and Fisheries was carried out in a short time and was not completed before the German attack. But the Germans, breaking through the Soviet border, attacked the peninsula from the mainland. And they were stopped at Mustatunturi. Our Northern Fleet, which provided powerful fire support from the decks of ships, made a significant contribution to this. The assaults on the Mustatunturi were well-equipped and prepared for battle in the northern mountainous conditions of the rangers of the elite German unit "Edelweiss". Peninsula retention lasted 3.5 years. Need I say what it cost the Soviet army. This land is covered in blood.

The Mustatunturi area has stunning views. They are especially well demonstrated by the so-called Swabian road, winding along lakes and hills. It was built during the war to provide the German army storming the peninsula, and comes from Pechenga, which the Germans called in Finnish - Petsamo. The turn on it is in front of the pass through the ridge on the way to the Middle. Driving along this road it is difficult to combine the charm of the surrounding nature with heavy fire and bombing.

The Swabian road is well preserved and amazes with its quality, but destroyed bridges complicate the passage along it. For their detour, you need an SUV with high clearance, allowing you to drive through large stones. Along the road, the Germans built a chain of various engineering structures. Many of them left only fragments of walls, but they are quite easily recognizable. But there are almost surviving buildings.

After the Second World War, on the peninsulas, and especially on the mainland adjacent to them, including Mustatunturi, many different kinds of artifacts remained - from artillery pieces and ammunition to ordinary household items used by the military. In peacetime, the Soviet army hosted it, there were many expeditions, search squads and just tourists, so artifacts became much less. But, as knowledgeable people say, there are still a lot of them, it just becomes more difficult to look for. However, mines, cartridges, and other similar objects, which are very rusty, which were not spared at all, because of which they no longer have almost any historical and material value, are often found.

The sights of the Sredny peninsula, like its history, are closely connected with Rybachy. Therefore, Medium is also interesting. But we do not linger on it. Our goal is Fisherman. It is much larger, and beyond it is the ocean. Yes, the ocean never borders on land. On maps, the Rybachy Peninsula is washed by the Barents Sea, which passes into the ocean. And, nevertheless, this is a convention, because there is water between the Fisherman and the North Pole.

On the first day, it was not planned to get to Rybachy. They stopped for the night, having set up a shawl camp near the road. On the second day, we separated from the Glory group and agreed to meet already on the peninsula. And this gave us one plus: the lack of a large company and support reinforced the impression of the first acquaintance with Rybachim. And it began with the abandoned military village of Ozerko, attracting a pair of five-story buildings.

Gray, with blackened hollow window eye sockets, they look gloomy. The sky, rain, cold gusty wind and complete deserts added the sad colors to the clouds tightly covered with heavy lead. Once inside them, you begin to imagine how and who lived here once. These impressions are probably the only thing that their visit can give. But, the strength of these impressions depends on their own acuity of perception, awareness and maybe something else. Inside is not just desolation. Everything is looted and defeated there. Although at home they had never seen war. They were built and abandoned by people in peacetime. What you see in these five-story buildings, then you meet across the peninsula at all abandoned military facilities. Someone says that in them you can see a picture of the apocalypse. I would call the picture differently, something related to the decline of morality, especially manifested in the nineties, after the collapse of the USSR.

Five-story buildings appeared in the early seventies in addition to other objects of housing infrastructure created for the military. By that time, a number of troops were stationed at Rybachy, including air defense, armed with an anti-aircraft missile system. The village of Ozerko was pretty well equipped, there was even a hockey court near the five-story buildings. Closer to the nineties, a reduction in armament began on the peninsula, and then demilitarization followed, which ended in the fall of 1994. After the military left, in addition to the well-established system of infrastructure facilities on the peninsulas, many different equipment and machinery remained, in particular, freight transport, all-terrain vehicles. The material base was preserved, but during the post-Soviet collapse of the country, this did not protect it. It is said that a significant part of the technique was sawn into metal.

After meeting with Ozerko, we went to look for a place where Slava was supposed to stand up, and got lost. We drove along a hard, rocky road, but then dirt appeared, the soil became more and more unsteady. Already included a lower gear and bridge locks, and the car went harder. And soon we crawled in the middle of the muddy tundra there, which can hardly be called expensive, and a swampy lowland was waiting ahead. In the end, we turned around.

The evening began, we decided to postpone the search, and stopped for the night on the shore of the Great Volokova Bay - in the western part of Rybachy. We did not have to search for beautiful parking lots for a long time, there are many of them. That's just such places are often not without wind. And it can blow out from the ocean so that the tent will not stand. But we found a quiet place under the rock and did not even put up a tent, we just pulled up an awning from the rain. You will not freeze in a warm sleeping bag at night.

When we arrived at Rybachy, it was cloudy, it rained from time to time. This is the Arctic and in August you can’t count on warm days. At night, the temperature drops to seven degrees. But, as we were told, a few days before our arrival there was a heat, which, in general, is rare for this region. Although a few sunny days we found. Winds blow often, but it happens that they are barely perceptible. In the depths of the peninsula there may be no wind at all, but if there is a lake nearby, there is not a small chance of being attacked by clouds of midges.

When they say that the ocean feeds, you can think about fish, some other seafood. But the ocean even provides firewood for the fire. On the fishing tundra, water and stone. A tree can be found by walking along the shore. There are boards and logs. Just choose those that have already lay down and dried out. In general, the ocean throws everything - and garbage and a lot of all good. Later, on one of the beaches of the peninsula, we discovered a huge bay of a good rope. Perhaps she was washed away in a storm from the ship. The rope is such that it can serve as a reliable tow rope for a large SUV.

The next day there was a clear sky, the sun was shining and we decided to take a walk deep into the peninsula. Its relief is hilly, dotted with stones, with many rock formations.

Due to strong winds, vegetation is not high, a significant part of it is like a carpet covering the ground, and in some places a bush grows densely. In the lowlands it is damp - puddles, hummocks. The peninsula is indented by streams and riverbeds, therefore, traveling along it, it will not be possible to pass them.

In rivers, the flow can be stormy. We meet such a river. We pass it on a pile of stones.

You might think that where the tundra all looks monotonous. However, it is not. Here, the tundra in combination with stones and rocks of various shapes forms interesting diverse landscapes.

Their highlight is often the ocean or the tundra itself with its bright colorful vegetation.

Flora is quite rich. Among it are many flowers and there are whole placers of berries.

The most common of them is crowberry. There are many blueberries, cloudberries, which are very popular in Scandinavia.

Still on the fishing lot of mushrooms. Of these, brown boletus are often found. They are very large.

Birch trees grow under birch trees. And they are here, only dwarf ones. They can spread along the ground and be very similar to the roots of a plant.

Still here are very beautiful mosses.

By noon, the sun was warming so that when the wind died down, it became warm in the south. At such moments, looking at the blue waters of the Great Volokova Bay, one could easily imagine that it was south.

Search Glory did not have to. He found us on a motorcycle. Yes, our group had several motorcycles - cross and pit bikes. They were brought on a trailer.

With such transport, you can quickly get to where it will be difficult or impossible to drive by car. The motorcycle allows you to see more. In addition, the peninsula will provide the motorcyclist with mud baths, water barriers, stones, slopes, sands, in general, everything you need for extreme drive on rough terrain. Moving by car, we did not look for extreme sports, but could not do without it.

Every day, our group on SUVs and motorcycles moved to a new place. Time was limited, so the route ran along the western part of the peninsula, where there is less off-road, and many attractions. In Rybachy there are, in a way, its main roads. They are well-rolled, with clear boundaries, and can be marked by barrels standing along them.

Most tourists travel on them. And if it were not for the numerous water arteries that flow into the ocean, and puddles in the lowlands, then it would be possible to pass through them on the most ordinary crossover. The river channels are saturated with large stones and can have steep descents, and the water level can be above the knee. These are not the most serious obstacles of the peninsula, but to go around the entire western part, they will have to be overcome, and this may be enough to damage the car. Stones can beat the body, pierce the wheels and break the parts located under the bottom. When crossing rivers without observing a number of precautions, the car can even be drowned. The torn off transfer case protection, a punctured wheel, a broken anti-roll bar, a water-filled interior, and scratches on the body are troubles that befell our group, which, by the way, consisted of people not without off-road experience.

The car interior was flooded, however, not on the river, but on one of the roads that went far from the coast through the tundra, where huge puddles stood in the lowlands. One of the SUVs dragging a trailer hooked onto a concrete slab lying at the bottom of one of these puddles and pulled over to the side of the road where the pit was. So the left side of the car was the most glass in the water and mud. The pit may have left a stalled military truck. And the slab was probably once laid to cover a site with too shaky soil. Interestingly, the puddle did not look deep and we were not ready for such trouble. Another thing when moving rivers.

The Slavic camper has a significantly increased, high ground clearance, and in addition to it a lower gear, two wheel and center axle locks. He was the first to slide into the water and determine if the rest could pass. Water obstacles were not long, but they hid large stones and their depth with all kinds of pits. The presence of such a specially prepared car among standard production SUVs, even good ones, at Rybachy, as I now think, is not desirable, but necessary. If you, of course, do not want, as my friend said on the eve of the trip, leave the car there. Although, we had one more help - motorcycles. They made it possible to quickly find out how far the plot was ahead.

The water level in the rivers of the peninsula depends on the ocean. For example, where in the afternoon the water may be below the knee, in the evening, during the tide, the level can rise to two or more meters. This feature is also important to consider.

When crossing the river, you don’t have to drive too fast. It is necessary not to push the wave ahead, but to follow it. If you push the wave, then the water will begin to penetrate under the hood, which can end with what is known. But, when you enter the river, and the water is already at the level of the bumper, you really want to get out to land as soon as possible, and the nerves can not stand it, the leg will add gas. Once I made such a mistake. Water rolled onto the hood and ... thanks to the Mitsubishi engineers! Now I say this not for advertising, because this error can be of high price. My Pajero Sport went wherever I needed, forgiving mistakes, and never failed.

Before going to Rybachy, having learned about the features of its relief, I was seriously puzzled by what tires to wrap the car in. I went from simple: I called a friend - in Nokian Tires. He recommended the Nokian Rotiiva AT. This is a tire, as indicated in its description, with reinforced sidewalls protected from side cuts, with a tread that works well on the roads, not noisy and economical on asphalt. Put it and did not lose. On the highway, the average fuel consumption was in the region of 5.5-7 liters.

Some of those who come to Rybachy do not differ in a thrifty attitude to nature, leaving behind a lot of garbage and spoiling the vegetation layer. There are places where instead of a multi-colored carpet of tundra plants, a huge, dirty meadow rolled out by wheels of SUVs turns black.

The desire of people to be surrounded by beautiful nature without showing concern for it is a real threat to the Rybachy Peninsula. How to protect him from such a threat is a question. We repeatedly raised it in our company in the evenings.

Scientists have found that people lived on Rybachy in the Stone Age. This discovery was made in 1979 thanks to a military man fishing in the Zubovsky Bay, who noticed rock paintings. After that, about thirty sites of an ancient man were found on the peninsula. There are Viking graves on Rybachy; a place of sacrifice of the Lapps was discovered. The peninsula was inhabited by Norwegians, Finns and Russians.

Natural resources made it possible to actively engage in whaling, reindeer husbandry, raising livestock, and, of course, fishing - what gave the peninsula a name. Traces of the activities of the people who inhabited Rybachy at different times can be found today. But, frankly, nothing attracts here like nature. She is so attractive that you begin to strive to be alone with her.

It so happened that I was not able to go to Cape German - the northernmost point of Rybachy and the entire European part of Russia. On one of the last days of our stay on the peninsula, when we had already traveled to its western part and were on the south coast, near Motovsky Bay, I separated from the group and went to German alone. Most of the way was famous. On the route I met a beautiful sandy beach formed by low tide.

I often stopped and took pictures a lot, which was difficult to do, moving in a group, time passed, and the tide began. Because of this, I encountered the difficulty of moving across the river. Poked in two places. In both cases, after the bumper was hidden under water, for fear of taking risks, it engaged reverse gear. Interestingly, in that place there was no typical tundra vegetation. Around the grass grew tall, like reed, the height of a car, which prevented orientation. These thickets were entangled in a whole network of roads. I returned to the same place several times, but then I discovered a waterfall, found a road going above it, and drove through a shallow ford. With the understanding that there were few bright hours, my triumph was not strong. Another circumstance prevented us from rejoicing: there was not enough fuel left in the tank, but there was no spare canister with us. To drive fast, without jumping in the cabin, on the eve he unloaded almost everything from the car, leaving only a sleeping bag, an ax and some food for the evening and the next morning. Not far from the German on the shore of the Weida Bay there is a small military unit of detection (air objects). My hopes to get hold of diesel fuel by the military were not realized. Their refusal was so categorical that ... it seems that tourists are fed up with it.

But once on the coast of the cape, the problem was forgotten. I was alone. By the way, it later turned out that Cape German is perhaps the most popular place among tourists coming to Rybachy. Therefore, I was lucky. In German, it’s beautiful in its own way: the tundra saturated with color spreads with a soft carpet among very unusual rocky formations with a layered structure.

In the sea, to the left to the far, the coast of Norway is visible.

Honestly, I had to spend those days off flying over the Solovetsky Islands. But the weather forecasts were depressing, and I did not go. Pilots drove there just to look at the places there. But I was already there and the prospect of wandering around the islands in cloudy weather (when I was there earlier in the sun) was completely uninspiring. Stayed at home. And then I was offered to join the company on a trip to the Middle and Rybachy peninsulas in our Kola.
The weather, by the way, was also forecast to be severe. However, choosing between two places where to freeze (in an apartment or in nature), I chose the second option. Well, at least take a ride, look and decide on the future with an already unhurried trip to the northernmost edge of our region (sorry :))).

I already wrote about the beginning of our expedition ... Suddenly, we slept well under the crash of a waterfall, having eaten sandwiches and tea or coffee, we moved along the Titovka River to the north. The most courageous three climbed onto the roof of our "all-off-road" and from there they surveyed the surroundings, entertained themselves with stories and incidents. The sky on the horizon inspired hope. God, how cruelly wrong we were!

Although the car was thrown from side to side on pits and potholes, like a fragile little ship during a storm, it didn’t sometimes interfere with taking out a camera and taking pictures right on the go, of course, with insurance from both sides. Moreover, the insurance was extremely reliable: sometimes the camera could not be brought to my nose - my comrades held me so tightly. Although, frankly, most of the way then went along the usual monotonous tundra, where my eyes had nothing to catch on, so I didn’t get the camera.

I must say that we met a lot of people: fishermen and tourists on ordinary cars, and the company of ATVs and cyclists, and "jeepers".

Such a tundra, such a landscape ...

We drive to the pass. After a short stop, the people also wanted to hang out on the roof and a whole "garden" was placed there.

Passed the pass and almost immediately in front of us appeared the purpose of our trip.

Traces of fierce battles during the Great Patriotic War are found everywhere.
And there are many monuments and obelisks to the heroes who defended the Arctic.

The sun came out again. As it later turned out, this was his farewell greetings.

Once again, it lit up the sea, but somewhere already far behind in the south. And at the rate we were met by a low dark sky, a windfall directly in the face and drizzle with fog. On the roof, we had been traveling together with a partner for a long time - the others were blown away into a dry, large “cabin”. It’s so good that halfway through I put on a windproof and waterproof raincoat, like my roosted neighbor on the roof! It was impossible to photograph anything along the way - damp instantly settled on the lens filter. And why the hell am I involved in this adventure?

However, we got there! Cape German is the northernmost point of the Kola Peninsula and the European part of Russia. Further only the ocean and the north pole.

Birds over your head. I had to bend down sometimes ...

The wind still whistles from the north, carrying a drizzle. It turns out that you take one shot and wipe the filter glass for half an hour, turning away. So there will be no gradient filters, erosion of water and other "artistry". Pure chronicle of events and statement of facts. Unfortunately. Moreover, in such trips everything happens according to the "gallop across Europe" principle: time is short, but you need to see a lot.

The cliffs on the coast really impressed me.

There was also something to look at in the water. "Polyarik" would not hurt, of course, but in the rain to wind it ...

I am shocked by these rocks. Separate strips of the size and shape of the machete could be separated from the array. The edge of such a cleaver was almost as sharp as that.

Do you know this plant? A lot of interesting things are told about him.

Sea ocean.

So the ATVs caught up with us. Let's go to the very shore, apparently.

And ours decided to look at the birds. There are a lot of them and they were not happy with us.

Still would! Only, out there, the little ones hatched. They don’t know how to fly or run. They hide, freeze, and wait for uninvited guests to leave. Please do not swear - all precautions have been taken. The photo was taken from afar by the "telephoto" as close as possible (and cropped still for enlargement). We are not enemies of nature.

Yes, there are two more lighthouses right there: old and new, working and not.

On one I was “embarrassed” to go (judging by the sign, somewhere they allowed overtaking :))), and on the other climbed, of course.

An unearthly picture from it opens in one direction (and in the other and in the third - gray fog).

And in the fourth direction - there is that cape with rocks, where we had to go further.

Well, again, everything was assembled and were waiting only for me. He threw his backpack behind him, rolled down the rotten stairs ... Let's go.

The distance was very small, so we arrived quickly. And immediately climbed the cliff - look around.

The "drawing" of the local rocks is also very textured.

What forces have tried so hard here? It looks unusual.

Then I could not stand it, went down to the foot of the rocks and rushed to the shore, while the people were busy with photo shoots. But I also wanted to climb to the second peak of a nearby cliff. In general, I ran along these stone folds and ran around a little with their camera.

I look, and on that top they are already walking ... I hurried to them.

I looked again at the stone waves on the shore.

That’s the top. The wind here is notable. And the review is excellent.
Thank you for the photo to the beautiful stranger who we found here sitting on the top and looking into the distance in complete solitude (I myself like to do it in the mood in my solo attacks when I'm not in a hurry). And the girl travels alone (!) On foot (!) Around the peninsula (!). So I’m already writing at home, and she’s still there (the guys said that she has plans to finish the campaign by the end of July). From my "bell tower" I can only envy her: and how many different things you can see slowly, and nature, for sure, will give a chance to capture this with good weather.

Oh, how specifically one of our trip participants came up to the same place where I was for scale.

I am leaving again with regret, and this place is time to go further.

Our movement is vigilantly watched from the air ...

We pass Skorbeevka ... Once upon a time there was a real military village, there is a house even on four floors, a couple - smaller and small heaps. Interestingly, with us on the trip there was a man who lived here at one time. To my question: "where is the mine under the rocket?" replied that there were mobile complexes. He showed where the "headquarters" and household infrastructure of the village were. Now the wind is walking here and desolation reigns. It is clear that, as is customary with us, everything is broken and torn, the pieces of wood are everywhere removed: either under fires, or for other purposes ...

Once again I was convinced: almost always where there is no person - there is beauty :))

Cold northern waters.

Found here a small fragment of the same cliffs as in Weide Gub.

Around the rocks and stones ...

And suddenly - a real beach! Where is the sun and my bathing suit ?!

I wandered along the shore back and forth, breathed in the sea air and went to the camp: we got up for the night here.

The Rybachy Peninsula, which is located in the Murmansk region, is a very interesting place. The Rybachy Peninsula will certainly appeal to those who love travel, nature trips and sea fishing. Photos from trips and trips to this unique place can be found on the Internet, as well as in travel magazines. There you can find reviews of experienced tourists who like outdoor activities and interesting photos of amateur fishermen.

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You can get to the Rybachy Peninsula from Murmansk. The main thing is to think over the route of the trip in advance, because due to difficult weather conditions, the trip to Rybachy can be frustrated. To get to the Rybachy Peninsula from Murmansk, you must have a map with you. The Rybachy Peninsula in the Murmansk Region is one of the most interesting places on the map of the north of Russia.

A trip to the Rybachy Peninsula in the Murmansk region: why you should go there

Those who love outdoor activities do not have to leave Russia for this. Our country also has very interesting routes. In the north of Russia, beyond the Arctic Circle, is the city of Murmansk. This is one of the northernmost cities in Russia. From Murmansk you can easily reach the Rybachy Peninsula.

There are several reasons on which Rybachy should definitely visit. These are the following reasons:

Those who are interested in Russian history and the military glory of Russia will certainly want to return to Rybachy again and again. Here you can still find shells and other artifacts that have survived since the Great Patriotic War. Rybachy is even sung about the heroic past of the peninsula in the famous Soviet song dedicated to farewell to the Rocky Mountains. There are industrial enterprises, fishing farms and reindeer herding farms.

Murmansk region Rybachy Peninsula: fishing for outdoor enthusiasts

This place has a "talking name": Fisherman. It is no coincidence that locals christened  this peninsula is just that. The Rybachiy Peninsula provides everyone with a unique opportunity to have a great time on real sea fishing. You can fish with a fishing rod, as well as with a more modern spinning reel equipped with a variety of additional devices. They go to sea, usually by boat or boat. You can get to sea fishing in the following ways:

During fishing you can easily catch the most diverse sea fish, which a resident of the Russian middle lane usually sees only in stores. It is good to catch both large cod and small capelin. If you are very lucky, you can see how real fur seals are warming themselves on the seashore.

On the peninsula there are a large number of private fishing farms and tourist camps designed for fishing enthusiasts. At the camp site you can rent vehicles and fishing equipment. Those who are afraid to go out on the open sea for the first time without an accompanying person can take a competent instructor with them - an experienced fisherman who will help to organize fishing properly and get a good catch.

For fishing, you should choose calm, calm weather. It is dangerous to fish in a storm, therefore, if a tourist plans to go to Rybachy for the purpose of fishing, it is advisable to specify the weather in advance.

During fishing, you can take unique photos. The northern sea waters are rich in fish, so even a novice amateur fisherman will not be left without a solid catch. Everything you need for fishing (bait, clothes, accessories) available at local fishing stores. The best time for fishing is a short northern summer. From time immemorial, local residents have been engaged in fishing, hence the "speaking" name of the peninsula. You can’t catch a fish like this here anywhere else. Sea fishing in one of the coldest and most northern places of our country is an activity for real men and passionate lovers of fishing.

Rybachy is located in the north of Russia, so the climate there is very specific. So, when you go on a trip, you should definitely take warm clothes with you: a jacket, boots, a warm hat, waterproof clothes for sea fishing.

The Rybachy Peninsula is rich in mushrooms and berries. Passionate mushroom pickers should be aware that blood-sucking insects are rampant in the mushroom season in local forests, so you should definitely take protective equipment with you - insecticides and repellents. Those who go into the woods for a “silent hunt” should wear long-sleeved clothing so that their arms and legs are reliably protected from bites.

Those, who go fishing in the summer, in the midst of the local tourist season, they must pre-book hotel or camp sites, otherwise there may simply not be any free places.

You must take a camera and a video camera with you on a trip. On the peninsula there are big problems with mobile communications. In order to talk with relatives or friends on the phone, you have to specifically look for a place where it catches mobile communications.

On the peninsula there are several nature reserves and national parks. During your stay in these places, you must strictly follow the rules of conduct, binding on all visitors : do not make bonfiresDo not leave trash behind, do not pick flowers and do not break tree branches. In case of violations of generally accepted rules, the violator risks paying a substantial fine.

On the peninsula there are places where any hunting and fishing is completely prohibited. Therefore, before planning these events, it is necessary to check with local residents if the chosen place is not prohibited.

Those, who loves animals and is interested in agriculturecan visit numerous deer farms, scattered in abundance on the peninsula.

The Rybachy Peninsula is a unique place in the north of Russia. This place has an ancient history and a heroic military past. Those who have ever visited the Rybachy Peninsula usually return there several times. The majestic northern nature makes people's hearts freeze with admiration. However, it is not recommended to go to Rybachy with young children, because the weather on Rybachy is very severe. - An ideal option for those who are interested in the nature of their native land and love extreme tourism. Rest here is inexpensive, but will be remembered for a long time.

In mid-July, out of necessity, my colleagues and I ended up on a two-week business trip in Murmansk. Since they arrived in Murmansk by my car, they tried to spend free time actively: they looked at the city, repeatedly fished in the Kola Bay, twice went to Teriberka, and I also managed to visit the Rybachy Peninsula ...

One weekend, I was lying on the sofa of a rented apartment and decided to read in my smartphone information about the Rybachy Peninsula and reviews of car travelers. The more I read, the more I got the idea to go there. Given the poor roads and the lack of preparation for the trip, I planned to drive only to the Musta-Tunturi pass, take a walk there on the rocks, the places of fighting and return back. It took no more than half an hour to gather, in fact there were no fees, I just drank coffee, smoked a cigarette and drove off. He planned to refuel on the way, stop by the store for some food and water, but somehow he slipped through all the shops and, having refueled, went having a bottle with about 50 ml of water in the back seat. This attitude to provisions was a big mistake, I realized this quickly. All the two weeks of our business trip there was a heat of about 30C, which, coupled with high humidity, created terrible stuffiness. The day of the trip was no exception and I wanted to drink already 50 kilometers from Murmansk.

The route from Murmansk to the Titovka checkpoint is excellent, everyone checks the documents at the checkpoint. As I understand it, the main requirement for free travel is the citizenship of the Russian Federation. After the checkpoint, turn right onto the primer, in fact, from this moment on, adventures begin. The road along the Titovka River is all in pits and potholes, like the rest of the way, there probably does not make sense to paint the quality of the “cover”, because it is not there, there are plenty of reviews on the Internet, I’ll only say that it’s possible to drive if carefully.

The road along the river is replete with picturesque views and I have repeatedly stopped to enjoy and take a picture. Unfortunately, the photo does not convey the height.

After some time, the road leaves to the left of the river and, meandering, rises higher and higher to the pass. Not the Caucasus, of course, but the rocky northern hills have their own, special beauty, it’s not just that people who have visited these places once come here again and again.

While traveling along Titovka, I was very thirsty, there was a feeling that the palate was sticking together and cracked, I definitely decided that I would get to the pass and turn around. At some point, when I was driving around the next hole, it seemed to me that a bottle was lying in the road dust, drove through, looked in the mirror - it seems like a bottle indeed. He stopped, walked over and was stunned; in the dust of the road lay a one and a half liter sealed bottle of Holy Source water. At that moment for me it was a sign, a sign that we should go further, beyond the pass. And indeed, as soon as I got drunk, my mood immediately rose and there was strength and desire to move on. Musta Tunturi passed quickly after that.

Unfortunately, I was not prepared for this trip and did not have a plan, some points of interest, therefore, stopping at the pass, I just walked around the nearby rocks. He climbed to the top in search of traces of the war. Found.

Behind the pass, the road began to descend, also replete with views worthy of the artist’s brush. I have repeatedly stopped and admired. Thus I got to the Sredny Peninsula. I did not like the way through the Srednyi peninsula: the killed road, shaking the car from side to side of the pit, speed 10 km / h, monotonous landscape on the left and Bolshaya Motka lip on the right. From time to time on the coast of the bay there were camps for visiting fishermen and tourists. Sights of the Middle - monuments to Soviet soldiers who fell in battle. In my opinion, it is necessary to go to the Middle one just to touch the history of the Great Patriotic War, not by passing like me, but thoughtfully, knowing specific points. It was in these places and about the events that took place in these places that the poem “The Son of the Gunner” was written by Konstantin Simonov.

I drove the middle one along the east bank and hit the isthmus with Rybachy. For myself, I set the task to get to Cape German, to the northernmost point of the peninsula, which is also the northernmost point of the European part of continental Russia. In one of the reviews I read that it is better to get there along the western coast of Rybachy, I did so. Having passed the isthmus, immediately turned left onto the road leading to Cape German, leaving the abandoned village of Big Ozerko on the right. The Rybachy Peninsula is no longer as uniform as the Middle Peninsula, at least it seemed to me. I rode towards the sun, sometimes it greatly interfered with going around stones and pits, but the views were simply fantastic.

The road on the western side of Rybachy is better than on the eastern side of the Middle, the speed is also 10-15 km / h, but somehow more diverse than chtoli. Talking less car from side to side, but a lot of large stones and fords. If you do not rush, it’s completely passing almost any car.

Perhaps, the beach left me most impressed, reaching about one kilometer to the Worm Stream. Dark gray sand, transparent as an angel’s tear, sea water in the rays of the setting sun, calm and a warm evening ... I didn’t bathe right away, I decided to cheer up on the way back, but running ahead, I’ll say that I couldn’t, because the tide had moved away by that time 150 meters water and the view of the beach was no longer so fabulous. A photo cannot convey, it must be seen in person, it is worth it!

From this place it is within easy reach of Cape German. Having wandered a bit along the tundra roads in unsuccessful attempts to go around the military unit standing in the way, I reached my destination.

Below is a short video sketch that I blinded from videos shot on a mobile phone. Filmed with one hand, the second held the steering wheel, respectively, the areas that had to be overcome while holding the steering wheel with both hands were left overs.

At the final point I stayed no more than an hour, walked, admired the sea and drove back. The return route ran along the same route. I left home at about 14-30, returned back around 9-30.

While driving along Rybachy, I met a car of French travelers. I didn’t notice people near, so I just drove by. Having already returned to St. Petersburg, he went to the site indicated on board their car and read information about them, about the car and their travels. Read, it’s interesting to look at our country through the eyes of foreigners who saw it not only in football stadiums and bars of big cities.

P.S. I consider it my duty to ask you, friends, do not litter, please. The tundra will not take anything, everything that you left will lie for decades if not centuries. The soil layer is very small, do not tear it with tire treads, it will heal for a very long time, there are roads there.

P.P.S. A week ago, I was sure that Rybachy was no longer riding in a car, but now in my head I thought about the correct preparation and how to plan the route. I’ll go, I’ll definitely go again, but not in a hurry, with fishing and spending the night in a tent ...