When is it better to go to Istanbul. What month is better to go to Istanbul? Security. What to watch out for

“Istanbul is a city of contrasts!” - This phrase from the beloved by many Soviet comedy film "Diamond Arm" everyone knows. But today, Istanbul, in addition to the magnificent and unlike any city, is also a huge popular hub. Daily Istanbul Airport is served by an incredible amount of international and domestic flights. And each independent traveler knows that one of the most “delicious” prices for air travel can be caught with a change in Istanbul.

Due to this fact, I, as an independent traveler with experience, managed to see Istanbul in each of the four seasons. And I’m not easily transferring to another flight, but I like to live in this Euro-Asian city for a couple of days and only then continue the journey.

Winter

If your “is off”, then a visit to Istanbul in winter is better to postpone. Although, I was once very lucky with the weather in the month of January: the couple of days I spent in this city the sun was shining, the weather was calm and it was a pleasure to wander around my favorite streets, but this is more likely an exception to the winter in Istanbul. Typically, the temperature does not rise above 10 degrees, but at the same time a cold wind constantly blows and plus there are prolonged rains. You must admit that a walk in such weather conditions is almost impossible, and if someone is desperate to go on a tour of the main attractions, then after half an hour, no matter how warm you are dressed, you will curse everything around and only dream of a hot bath. Too dull winter weather in Istanbul. Snow in the capital of Turkey is an infrequent occurrence, but I got lucky

But in winter, this city becomes very affordable for tourists: prices are falling at times and for everything: housing, food, tickets to museums. There are very few tourists here at this time of year.

Spring

I have long noticed that in the spring any corner of the globe where there is such a thing as a season change becomes the most beautiful in the whole year. Spring is already green, but still fresh! Istanbul in the spring is beautiful!

Turks love warmth and even though the capital of Turkey does not have very snowy and harsh winters, but in the spring the locals are no less happy than ours. But sudden changes in temperature are possible. I once found a very cool May and if it weren’t for a warm jacket, I would definitely get sick. So a jumper or a windbreaker in spring Istanbul will not hurt for sure. The temperature during the day can reach 20-25 degrees, but evenings and nights will certainly be cool.

One of the reasons to visit the capital of Turkey in the spring is the tulip parade. This year it was held on April 4, but the beauty of flowers pleased tourists for a long time. The sight, it should be noted, is unforgettable.

One gets the feeling that tulips are everywhere: roadsides, yards, alleys, parks - everything is literally planted with this flower. Moreover, the color scheme is so diverse, and the aromas are so strong that they literally blow your head. Allergy sufferers need to be careful.

In addition, in the spring there are a lot of various festivals: film festival, theater, jazz and many others. And for shoppers, the “Shopping Week”, traditionally held in mid-April, will delight.

Summer

I can recommend only the beginning of summer, then hell begins. You can only escape on the coast, which is blown by a light breeze. But the coastal zone is rich in not very pleasant aromas associated with the sewage of the coast. But inside the city, among the stone jungle, when the asphalt melts underfoot, it is uncomfortable. Neither ice cream, nor cold water, nor panama hats and umbrellas save from the sun. In Istanbul, there is simply nothing to breathe in the literal sense of the word. The temperature can rise up to 40 degrees, but this is a rather rare occurrence. On average during the day, the thermometer shows 30-35 degrees, but coupled with high humidity is still a pleasure.

Most tourists escape in the greenery of parks or in the shade of numerous mosques.

Autumn

About autumn, I can say the same as about the first days of summer, with the only caveat that the whole of September is likely to be wonderful weather. Istanbul this month is also beautiful as in spring, but there is a reviving nature, and here it is quiet. Walking in September in Istanbul will bring real aesthetic pleasure.

But October and November can be rainy. And although there is still heat left and there is a chance to “catch” sunny days, but most often the November Istanbul is a leaden sky and a cool wind.

Istanbul is beautiful at any time of the year, and numerous attractions can be visited in the winter. It is only necessary to prepare for each season and then you will not experience disappointment. But this rule applies to any resort. Do not let the weather ruin the impression of Istanbul. Come here in spring, early summer or early autumn and you will see what attracts tourists from different parts of the country here.

In Istanbul, which is known to be a city of contrasts, a lop-eared, overly trusting traveler, there are many dangers of surprises.
The first surprise was shoe shine, which was observed in two types - stationary and stray.
Stationary - less dangerous unexpected. Sitting on the sidewalk and juggling animatedly gesturing with brushes and jars of shoe polish, they politely but persistently invite you to put your shoes in order. It is best to limit yourself to also polite, but firm “Thank you, no!” in any language available to you (or them), accompanying this Thank you! No! vigorous gestures. Sedentary cleaners will understand you and not be offended. Moreover, we have repeatedly observed that they have clients.

These are not stray cleaners. They use ingenious tricks to lure you into their nets, to disarm and clean you everything that you had the imprudence to put on your tired legs.
But we, too, are not bastards and quickly decoded them.
For example, an uncle with a drawer is walking past you, unsuspecting. In the drawer there are different brushes, shoe polish. And it seems like this is not an insidious wandering cleaner, but an idle reveler, carelessly waving this very drawer. And right next to you, a brush falls out of the drawer. And the uncle didn’t seem to notice, and he’s dripping on. Well, of course, you, as caring people, shout to him something like “Hey, picking up a guy, he dropped a tool!”
Well, the guy, of course, turns around, picks up the tool, thanks you cordially and offers you absolutely free, as a sign of friendship of peoples, to clean your shoes, along the way telling you compassionate stories about a bunch of children and wives that you want, do not want, but you need to feed.
The main thing here is to apply the way you already know how to deal with unscrupulous extortionists of your labor cents by cleaners, that is, say firmly, “Thank you, friend! Not! "- and with a quick step to retire backstage to hell.
Or - if your hotel lobby is not equipped with a shoe-polish machine or your heart is too responsive - support a large dad with a few dollars.
We were not interested in the exact price.
Stationary cleaners (stray to photograph somehow did not work out)


On the pier at the Galata bridge



The second danger is the unexpectedness that awaits you - roaming peddlers of bacilli and germs of drinks of unknown composition and undeclared price.
Here, for example, we go, as usual, gullible and not plotting anything malicious, unsuspecting travelers to the Suleymaniye Mosque, one of the most beautiful mosques in the Muslim world, by the way.
And on the way to the mosque, we are greeted by such a kind young man, in a Purim costume from the Ottoman era (as he himself told us), immediately declares himself an automatic machine for pouring cherry juice for tourist suckers and offers to try the juice and take a picture for memory.


Further, without letting us come to our senses, the Ottoman begins the performance - leans forward, from the nozzle of the jug that hangs behind his back, the juice is poured into 2 cups - (automatically, you will not say anything), which are presented to us with an expression of brotherly love on a trick Muslim face.
We, as well-mannered people, cannot refuse a Turk to try his refreshments, while the cerebellum drills the thought that money will be demanded nemeryanno for water with syrup - this is how it turns out.
To the innocent question, “How many are with us, bro?” The Turk calls the price first 50 - we are surprised, then 15 - we are again surprised, then 5, and it does not matter in which currency. Let's say in lira. On the number 5, I indignantly said that he poured only half a glass, to try, what is the money for?
Without saying a bad word, the Turk grabs from my hands an unfinished half a glass (offended - I thought naively), instantly refills it to the brim and returns it to me.
I felt funny and I offered him two lire (a little more than 1 euro).
Then the guy began to show me with gestures that he had no pockets and rustled with papers - let's say, bills, not coins, where am I going to put them, your coppers!
Well, I was indignant at that and said in broken Turkish - you do not want as you want, and I pretended to leave.
Then, with a deep sigh, our artist took two liras and went on to breed tourists to treat them with colored water.
Artist, naturally, artist!

As soon as it is called - the city of thousands of mosques, and the cradle of the revolution of civilization, and the nonsense and horror of the East, and the catastrophe of Asia (Brodsky), and the only great city with three names on two continents (Weil).
And finally, from myself I’ll tell you so - Istanbul is a continuous, noisy, annoying, funny, unbridled and exotic oriental bazaar. No, well, there are museums and high-rise buildings there too, but we didn’t enter them, we didn’t have time.
The traveler who came to Istanbul for the first time naturally begins to worry about different issues.
For instance:
what language to speak with the local population, if the fish is called balyk in Turkish, pants are shalvars or knickers, a plate is tobacco, a glass is a mess, vodka is votka, tea is tea, a palace is a barn, a tram is a tram, a metro is a tunnel, a token is a token, a man is a beater, and a woman is an accordion?
whether they will feed the Gentiles (us, that is) during Ramadan, and if so, what?
how much does a pita shawarma ticket to the Top Capa Palace cost?
why do you need to take off your shoes in the mosque and why did Volodka shave the Mohammedan mustaches and smeared the faces of the Virgin and Child in the Christian church of St. Sophia, and then completely turned it into a mosque?
how to use a public toilet and what are these fountains in the toilet for and jugs on the floor for?
Well, a lot of different questions arise. For example, are there many of ours in the city?
I answer - a lot.

Firstly, Istanbul tourists to Russia are always happy and eagerly explained to the great and mighty. Especially often we heard invitations to visit here right around the corner, a leather and sheepskin coat shop or eat in a restaurant. One Turkish mustachioed uncle-barker even told me - Madame, you look hungry. I beg you, madam!
True, he seems to have said English, but I understood and appreciated his unpretentious humor.
So, ours have come.
Shirts from Versace.


Volga-Volga, mother dear ....


Tissue House


Nostalgia ....


This is probably the name of my son’s store.

The Blue Mosque, or the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, is extraordinary in its beauty and majesty. From here, the pilgrims begin their journey to Mecca.

When we entered it, literally took my breath away.
Unfortunately, it’s a bit dark inside and the photos didn’t work out, but I dragged one away from the user gope_om_yma.

The guide states that the Blue Mosque is the only mosque in the world with six minarets. According to legend, Sultan Ahmed I, going to Mecca, ordered the architect to sort out six bags of beans and peas, plant 40 rose bushes and know himself to build gold minarets for the mosque.
“It will be a little expensive,” the zealous master thought and went to the trick. Using the similar sound of the Turkish words “golden” (Altin) and “six” (Alti), he built six stone minarets.
This fact aroused the indignation of the imam in Mecca, since no mosque in the world could equal the mosque al-Masjid al-Haram (which in Russian means the Forbidden Mosque) - the main Muslim temple in the courtyard of which is the Kaaba. I had to complete the seventh minaret in a mosque in Mecca.

Photo dragged from the Internet - 6 minarets are clearly visible.


**************************************** *************************
The Church of Divine Wisdom, Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya), was consecrated on December 27, 537 and for more than nine centuries remained a Christian church.
In 1453, after the fall of Constantinople, St. Sophia with broken crosses was turned into a mosque.


Poster Guide: Traces of Turkish rule in the interior of Sofia are, first of all, eight huge round donkey-skin shields suspended under a dome. The Arabic nightmare on them - sayings from the Koran, the names of the first caliphs - are considered to be the largest examples of Arabic calligraphy.
  Ataturk, turning Sofia from a mosque into a museum, ordered them to be removed. Immediately after his death in 1938, the inscriptions were put in place.
In the altar apse, of course, there is a prayer niche - mihrab; there are other little things dear to the heart of a Muslim, like huge pot-bellied jugs for ablutions near the entrance. The bronze cell in the southern gallery is a library built in the 18th century. But all these additives remained completely alien to the great temple - as well as four minarets and a month above the dome.
Islamic fundamentalists in Turkey are demanding that the authorities again turn the museum into a mosque. On the other hand, the Orthodox fundamentalists in Greece put forward a counter-demand: that the filthy crescent moon should be immediately dropped and a cross raised over Sofia again.
In my Jewish view, terrible dissonance




Hagia Sophia was decorated with extraordinary pomp (at some point, Justinian in a conceited impulse decided to pave the floor with wrought-iron plates; he was barely discouraged). The vaults were completely covered with gold mosaic, and the dome was decorated with a blue cross on a gold background.
The dome is very difficult to photograph, there is no light, the power is not the same.
Illuminated places work better


Now Hagia Sophia is the fourth largest basilica after the Vatican Cathedral of St. Peter, the Milan Duom and the London Cathedral of St. Paul.
During the holiday, Bayram there was a huge number of people wishing to get to St. Sofia. Moreover, this huge queue consists of local natives who are on discount, tourists go out of turn, but paid 20 lire.

Topkapi Palace.
According to rumors, soon there will be an Internet recording in Topkapi Palace, like in the Borghese Gallery in Rome, and you just won’t get there, but for now it was enough to stand in line at the cash register.


  Poster Guide: The huge (70 hectares) palace complex - a real city in the city, has been burned down almost completely over the centuries and rebuilt, but the basic principle has remained unchanged. Topkapi are four courtyards that make up the outer and inner palaces, respectively, birun (birun) and enderun (enderun). Birun is the official and public part, which was located in the First and Second courtyards (the First is now fused with the gardens and parks surrounding the palace). Enderun is the Third and Fourth courtyards plus a harem: private, unofficial chambers.
Palace Layout


Entrance to the Palace


Pilgrims


Armouries
Saber? Sleep, fuck!





In the territory of the palace we found festivities during Ramadan
Turkish Song and Dance Ensemble


The green banner of Islam, you can’t do anything


You are no longer a boy, a young drummer ....


Almost English lawn


And the trees there are so thick that you wonder






Still in the park


View of the Sea of \u200b\u200bMarmara. Here the sultans rested and stared at the sea.


Fortress walls


The most interesting thing in the Palace, of course, is the Harem Treasury, where innumerable treasures and gifts to the Sultans are stored. But you can’t take pictures there. As my husband rightly remarked, part of the treasures was acquired by the robbery, but these are not gifts at all. But start taking pictures - the owners will be found, that's just the same.

Harem
The word Harem of Arab origin, the Turks call it the House of Happiness (Darussade). With the adoption of Islam in the 10th century, the Turks adopted the Arab tradition of keeping harems, which was forbidden by Ataturk in 1926.
Harem Daily Life

Poster Guide: Envious Europeans imagined the life of the Sultan in the harem was like a Muslim paradise, where the ruler basked in the arms of hundreds of gurus at the same time.
This was partly true: Murad III, famous for his sexual exploits, for many years “did justice” with at least three women per night. But the harem also had an important state function: since there were many women and children, the Ottoman dynasty - unlike the Habsburgs there - was never left without a male heir. So, in essence, it was just a large family - of course, quite a nightmare, but well organized.
Subordination reigned there paramilitary. The notorious odalisks - odalyk - were just servants who could not even dream of sharing a bed with the ruler. Girls who were more fortunate became ikbal. The ikbal who liked the sultan, who was summoned to the master for the second time, exposed himself to terrible danger: she was jealously watched by the Haseks - the sultan's wives who bore him a son. Each of the Haseki, in turn, fought for her son to ascend the throne. Everything went into business: from denunciation to dagger and poison. The losers ended up in a leather bag at the bottom of the Bosphorus. The lucky Haseki, whose son became the Sultan, passed on to the rank of Valide Sultan - the “mother of the Sultan” - and turned into the main woman of the entire harem and not only: at the end of the 16th century, for example, the powerful Valide actually ruled the empire instead of their worthless sons - drunkards or madmen.
Harem security was black eunuchs. Kizlyar-aga - their chief and confidante of the Sultan - every night chose a girl for the sovereign (he was, of course, a terrible bribe taker), but he also performed more delicate orders (he managed, for example, those same Bosphorus bags). Incidentally, castration did not always make sex impossible, so eunuchs occasionally abused their position.
The joke about the sobbing harem, which the lord cheated on with another harem, is actually quite true: when the sultan died, his heir acquired his own harem, and the wives and concubines of the predecessor suffered a different fate: some were married, some were left as mentors and nannies, and most were sent to the Palace of Tears at the Beyazit mosque, where they lived out their days in complete oblivion.

As I already mentioned, the entrance to this charitable institution costs an additional 15 lira, but it was not without reason that Peter Weil wrote that tourism is a commodity in the Istanbul market, where in this case they sell our own curiosity. To visit the palace of the Sultan and not visit the harem (or rather, what is left of it and what is allowed to visit) is just an unthinkable thing for an inquisitive European. Or an American.




Honestly, it seemed to me as a simple layman who had read Arab folk tales as a child, the wives and concubines of the Sultan bathed in luxury, ate from golden plates, drank from silver cups, dressed in precious brocade, and their chambers should amaze the imagination with the splendor of decoration .

Fake girls


In reality, some rooms of the harem slightly resemble the bathroom of a new Russian after a European-style renovation made by hardworking Tajiks - this is especially promoted by the beautiful painted Iznik tiles on the walls.
Judge for yourself
(this is a photo from the Internet)

and I shot it

Once magnificent, and now shabby carpets, the almost complete absence of furniture and utensils makes a strange impression, I just want to ask - where is your notorious luxury, which attic was hidden from prying eyes?

Further, as many as 3 photos from the Internet
The ottoman is rather strange on the floor for Italian greyhounds?



Throne room


Or take, for example, a toilet. When was it last washed, huh? and where is the drain tank, citizens? Cranes, but of pure gold. Probably.

Amazing inlays on the doors


In general, many of the premises of the harem resemble a prison - here are the rooms for the guards,
(guards fake)


bars on the windows, albeit gilded, but the view from the window?
Golden cage.


The view from the outside. Inscriptions are visible on the shutters, apparently so that the girls do not get bored, and in their free time from visiting the ruler, they studied literature. Or the Quran.


In conclusion, I can say that Topkapi Palace and the Harem made an indelible impression on us, they look rather modest, no frills. Almost ascetic. We expected more.

The joke is not the topic.
A woman comes to the psychiatrist and complains about the mental health of her husband.
The doctor, my husband is crazy, he chewed all the cups in the house.
Doctor - what are you saying! Together with the pens?
Woman - no, he doesn’t eat pens.
The doctor thoughtfully is strange, because pens are the most delicious!
Very diligently, almost like listing our bank account before a salary, we studied the Poster Guide before the trip and then tried to fulfill the 10 commandments not to miss any of
  1. Throwing things into the hotel, go straight to Hagia Sophia to marvel at the gigantic dome of the main Tsargradsky shrine, photograph the radiant Virgin and Child in the central apse and find millennial graffiti in the choirs. To make a promise not to become like American tourists that they stupidly put a finger in a hollow in a pillar, where during the fall of Constantinople a priest allegedly hid, fleeing the Janissaries. Do not hold back and, while no one is looking, make a wish and stick your finger.
2. Fearlessly try street food. Glasses with marinades and pouches with mussels, fried hamsa and mullet, kavurmas, lahmajuns and coconuts taste as unusual as they sound. Do not miss a single candy store. Halva, Turkish delight and baklava - this is not so bad, but there are Bulbul-Yuvas, Tavuk-GG "Ksyu and Ashura." Acidify about

As soon as I first came to Istanbul, I fell in love ... In the Bosphorus, in the panorama with the minarets of mosques, in palaces, bazaars, streets. I can say about Istanbul, like no other city, that it is a fairy tale. For many, Istanbul is associated with bales of shuttles. If you belong to such people, then I am ready to dissuade you and tell you what to do in Istanbul, where to go, what to see. Of course, my note is subjective, but every journey is an emotion, right?

Istanbul Airport: how to get to the city center

Most likely, your flight will land at the airport called Istanbul Ataturk Airport, which is located about half an hour from the center of Istanbul. The modern airport, it seems to me, is no different from any other major.

Scheme of airport departure hall

Arrival Hall Airport Scheme

You can get from the airport to the center of Istanbul in several ways: using public transport with one change, taxi or order a transfer from a Russian-speaking company. From how to get read in a separate note.

Public transportation in Istanbul

Istanbul suffers from serious traffic jams, so I’ll start talking about public transport with the metro and light rail. In fact, often the tram lines are called the light subway, because they move along a fenced road, go as often as the subway. If you look at the map of Istanbul metro (download), you will see that some lines are marked with the letter M (metro), and some with the letter T (trams). In general, both modes of transport create a common system for moving around Istanbul, but you will have to pay again when changing from one type to another.

As you know, Istanbul is located on 7 hills, so it was not without funiculars and cable cars. There is a short line in the public transport system, marked with the letter F. This is an old underground funicular that will take you from Kabatas to Taksim in a matter of minutes. You will have to pay for the funicular again, as you know.

There are also cable cars, they are indicated by the letters TF. The line TF2 (Eyup-Pierre Loti) is popular among tourists.

The know-how of local authorities is metrobasses. These are the buses for which they allocated and fenced off a separate lane. The principle is very similar to trams.

Moving, even changing from one type of transport to another, is very convenient, they are united by common transitions, many signs are hanging.

Payment for public transport occurs with tokens, vending machines which are located at each stop. One token - 3 lira. Cash will not work.

If you plan to actively use public transport, then you better buy an Istanbul card (in Istanbul it is usually called akbil, because before it was a bit like a key to a doorphone), top up your account and apply it at every pass through the turnstile. Thus, the cost of the trip will be lower. Especially tangible savings when changing from one mode of transport to another within 120 minutes: each change becomes cheaper. Cards are sold at many kiosks, including specialized ones with the inscription Albil or Istanbul card. The deposit for the card is 6 lire, it will be returned when the card is returned. However, no one will return the unspent money on the card to you, therefore, do not replenish the card account with huge amounts. Very Turkish, isn't it?

Description of high-speed public transport routes can be studied here .

Istanbul is a huge city, of course, high-speed public transport does not fully cover the needs of people. Many attractions will have to be reached by bus. Bus Schedules and Routes can be found here   . I recommend that you keep this link to yourself, because in Istanbul, as we have, there is no complete information about routes, stops and time of arrival of the bus. That is, you need to ask or know in advance which bus is needed, where it is better to get off. By the way, the Turks are very willing to help sort it out.

Buses are big, but they are like our minibuses (in Turkey they are called dolmushi).

Another convenient type of Istanbul public transport is ferries. Water transport for such a densely populated city is just salvation. All berths are marked on the map of the city that will be given to you at the hotel.


There are small ferries that only transport people; they are called vapur. Here you can see the schedule and routes.

There are large ferries for people and cars, they are called Ferries (feribot). Ferries run along the shores of Istanbul, and sea buses (deniz otob? S) are provided for trips to more distant points.

Istanbul Water Transport Site .

If you are traveling to Istanbul for the first time, then most likely you will need a T1 line tram that passes by top Istanbul sights and markets, and the F1 funicular to Taksim Square and the top of Istiklal pedestrian street. Well, then ... most likely, Istanbul will captivate you and drag you in, and all the wisdom of moving around the city will become clear and a little family.

Taxi in Istanbul

How much does a taxi cost in Istanbul? And how to agree! This is an eastern country, which means that a taxi driver can make good money on tired tourists who are ready to give any money in order to be in the hotel as soon as possible.


We always agreed with the taxi driver on the fare in advance, and even had to bargain. To bargain more confidently, you can use online taxi fare calculator .

In general, I determined for myself that a taxi in Istanbul is the worst way to get around. Firstly, it is quite expensive, because gasoline in Turkey costs crazy money. Secondly, it is a long time because the city is suffocating from traffic jams. Thirdly, they drive just awful, I'm always scared.

Where to book a hotel in Istanbul

Where it is better to book a hotel in Istanbul - the question is very difficult. To answer it, you must first decide on the purpose of the trip, personal priorities and budget. I will not try to act as a hotel expert in Istanbul, but rather talk about personal experience and observations.


When we went to Istanbul for the first time, we definitely decided for ourselves that we want to live in the heart of the old city of Sultanahmet. Therefore, they determined that you need to choose a hotel on Divan Street or near Topkapi Palace. As the saying goes, the lip is not a fool. We were lucky, according to the action we were able to book a magnificent Ambassador hotel by the standards of Sultanahmet. It is gorgeous with a fresh renovation, excellent staff and a fantastic rooftop terrace. When we climbed it, we squealed with delight in the literal sense of the word. In addition to all the sights that we managed to see in three days, we easily reached on foot, plunged into the atmosphere of old Istanbul.

Of course, I recommend everyone to live in Sultanahmet, if you are willing to pay about 6,000 rubles per day for the hotel. For less money I could not find a decent hotel. By the way, cost is also not always a guarantee of comfort. In Sultanahmet, the buildings are very old, miniature, often standing close to each other: window to window. Spiral staircases, small elevators, tiny rooms, miniature showers - you need to be prepared for such surprises. Sultanahmet Hotels

For the second trip to Istanbul, I chose the hotel differently. I liked the location of the hotels along the street along which the T1 light rail runs in the direction of Galata Bridge. Here are more budget hotels, but at the same time, colorful and located within walking distance of all the most interesting in the old city of Istanbul. I recommend paying attention to this section of the city. Hotels near Galata Bridge

I also liked the location of the hotels overlooking the Bosphorus, i.e. in the Galata Bridge area. I booked a hotel overlooking the sea and Sultanahmet and ... upon arrival I found that the hotel is on the street where they sell iron and garden equipment, etc. Some kind of market that flooded the whole street. A terrible place, I do not advise anyone to stop there. This is the first line of hotels on the banks of the Bosphorus from the side of the city where the Galata Tower stands.

If you want to save money or want a modern normal hotel near the historical center, then pay attention to the Laleli district. If you read carefully the reviews, you can choose a good hotel at a reasonable price. Although Laleli has the glory of a district man “so-so,” he didn’t seem like that to me. Just a few streets with small shops of rags and bags, outwardly very decent. Yes, and to the center a couple of stops by light rail. Hotels in Laleli

My ratings for visited hotels in Istanbul: Ambassador 3 * (rating 5 out of 5), Gold Hotel 3 * (rating 2+ out of 5), Aladdin hotel 3 * (rating 3+ out of 5).

Features of Istanbul Hotels

Audibility in Istanbul hotels is generally a separate song. We somehow settled into a room on the 3rd floor of the hotel, and on the first floor there was a company of Russians who drank soundly. About 2 nights, they returned from the party and screamed as if they were cut. I was especially surprised by one girl who behaved like a drunk woman in the company of truckers (Aladdin Hotel, if a girl reads my review, then a big “hello” and “bow” to her). In general, the whole hotel did not sleep because of her.

Breakfast usually in hotels consists of cheese, eggs, olives, pastries, granola and inedible sausages and sausages. Modestly, but that is how the Turks themselves have breakfast.

Many hotels in the center have terraces with beautiful views of the city, mosques, Bosphorus. For me, this is a direct fad, I ignore the offers of hotels where you can’t have breakfast while enjoying the panorama.

If you spend time, you can choose a hotel with an oriental interior to add even more color to your trip. Satin pillows, carpets, bright bedspreads, a canopy ... is that great?

If you meet suitable hotels in wooden houses, this will be an additional plus: after all, such buildings date back to Istanbul from the time of the Ottomans.

If we talk about hotels located in the business part, near the airport, then everything is European: Ibis, Holiday in, etc. In general, who cares about comfort in the European sense of the word, I recommend choosing the usual hotel chains.

Rules for visiting mosques

As you know, in Istanbul there are a lot of mosques, which are not tourist attractions, but active religious places. Before entering the most popular “tourist” mosques, there are signs explaining the form in which they can be visited; at the entrance, an employee checks compliance with the rules. But, if you want to go to less promoted mosques, then do not forget about the rules, because there are no special employees there, and local residents can take violations very seriously.

So, first of all, we must remember that you cannot enter any mosque in shoes. Usually the shoes are left in front of the door. I carry a bag in my purse in which you can put shoes and take it with me to the mosque (but more often I just leave it like everyone else).

Women should not enter the mosque with their bare hands, legs, and their heads uncovered. Usually, in front of the entrance are skirts that need to be worn over your clothes and scarves.

Men should not enter the mosque in shorts; it is better to wear a sweater on the T-shirt.

And remember that during prayer (prayer) you cannot enter the mosque. Namaz takes place 5 times a day: early in the morning, around noon, after dinner, in the evening and at night. The exact time varies according to the seasons, because the call to prayer is related to the position of the sun.

I don’t even remind you that you can’t talk loudly, laugh, discuss the worshipers, walk in front of them. This cannot be done in any religious place.

By the way, on the other hand, you can take pictures in mosques if it is not expressly prohibited by the sign (I have not met such restrictions).

What and where to try in Istanbul

Before you go to Istanbul, give up a diet. This city constantly, at every step, chews and drinks, fries or cooks something, treats and offers to buy different sweets. Well, if you can still hold on to the first day, then all the same, be tempted.


The indisputable gastronomic chips of Istanbul are fried chestnuts, fried corn, bagels with chocolate paste, pomegranate juice, Turkish ice cream and oriental sweets. And how to get past the doner and kebab? I also want to drink real Turkish tea from miniature glass cups, try Turkish coffee ... Yes, and fish must be tasted, because the Bosphorus is famous for red mullet and other marine delicacies. I am sure that your idea of \u200b\u200bTurkish cuisine will change dramatically if it has developed on the basis of ol-inclusive hotels.

You understand that at this pace in Istanbul you can only do what is, is, is. But what about the sights?

I made up a culinary guide (again very subjective) about what to try in Istanbul. And then it is not complete, because for three trips to Istanbul I could not try everything, I could not find out everything. ( read a delicious post about food in Istanbul)

What to bring souvenirs from Istanbul

Istanbul belongs to those cities from which you can bring excellent souvenirs, rather than a commonplace magnet or a postcard.

At the Egyptian Bazaar, you can buy quality towels, bedspreads and other textiles. And you can pick up fragrant spices that will appeal to all people who know how to cook a little more than just scrambled eggs. And I also found magnificent Turks there, elegant silver plated Turkish coffee cups.

The Grand Bazaar also has many spices, Turks (and dishes, and real), hookahs, textiles. In addition, there is a large selection of Turkish sweets by weight. Everything that is sold in factory boxes is best not to buy. Real sweets are sold by weight, they are quite expensive, but they are tasty. Feel free to try.

I bought gifts in the Laleli area, because towels and bed linen are much cheaper there.

Personally, my favorite among the souvenirs from Istanbul are absolutely magical oriental lamps. They just fascinate me. Let there be nothing oriental in the apartment, but such a table lamp very organically fit into the usual modern interior.

Ordinary souvenir shops can also be visited. Along with the banal evil eye keychains, cups, plates, figures, you can dig up cool slippers, discs with Turkish music, stylish notebooks. You can list endlessly.

In shops selling sweets, you can buy Turkish coffee, tea, which is also never superfluous.

In Istanbul, everything has been done so that tourists buy, buy, buy. They ate, ate, ate, and then bought again.

Shopping in Istanbul

Shopping in Istanbul is best planned in advance. Istanbul is too big a city to run randomly through shopping centers. Imagine if you need to run Mega in Khimki and Vegas in the south of the city in a day.

I bought textiles in the Laleli district. After wandering through the streets among shops with strange clothes, I came across a textile row. From greed, I scooped up towels for myself, my mom and sister, grabbed an excellent set of linen and paid just 100 euros for everything. The girlfriends were able to find a wonderful sheepskin coat below the knee on Laleli for 600 euros. In general, you can walk there. Although some stores simply plunged me into shock (photo). I don’t understand who buys these dresses.

Fashionable shopping is best arranged in one of the large shopping centers, which are far removed from the historical part of Istanbul. If you are counting on a specific race for fashion brands, then allocate at least one day only for this.

About all sorts of cute trinkets and souvenirs I wrote above. I really liked the Egyptian market, because there you can find a lot of fun things. For example, you may find yourself on a street consisting of scarf shops. No matter how Istanbul boasted of its European orientation, many women still wear scarves on their heads. Of course, for them this accessory is important, I can imagine how many fashionistas they have. I went to one of these stores and my eyes wide. In general, lovers of "scarves" here.

On the next street I managed to find a funky green hat, romantic gloves with bows and a bright orange suitcase. And also, in the Egyptian market there are a number of shops with jewelry. It is mainly for oriental women - more shine and more stones. But among this glamor there is a shop with monochrome silver jewelry. You will see him for sure. For 10 liras, one can pick up such beautiful earrings that girlfriends will acquire. Most importantly, do not give out appearances and passwords.

You can talk about the Grand Bazaar for hours. You can find anything there. And if you like to bargain, you will receive incomparable pleasure. My girlfriends, for example, walked away from t oud with leather jackets. I wanted to buy decorative pillows, but stopped in time, because I’m not ready to turn the apartment into an oriental palace. The market itself, by the way, is a tourist attraction, it’s like a city in a city.

I will not talk about carpets and antiques. This is a very specific shopping, but if it interests you, then Istanbul will not disappoint.

I’m not going to talk about leather, fur coats and sheepskin coats, because there was only a “tourist” experience of buying in tourist places.

This is where I finish writing about shopping, because for me Istanbul is primarily a storehouse of sights of Byzantium and the Ottoman Empire. And serious shopping can be done in other, less interesting cities.

The main attractions of Istanbul

Istanbul has a huge number of attractions. If you are going to Istanbul for a couple of days, then I offer the following list of the most important attractions of the city that everyone should see.

Topkapi Sultan's Palace and harem


Topkapi Sultan's Palace

This is insanely interesting to visit the palace of the Ottoman Sultans, in which you can see the chambers of Padishah, the Sofa or study for working receptions, the treasury, the library, the chambers of the mother of the Sultan and much more. It is also interesting to visit the harem. It affects many harems, and not by the splendor of the chambers of young concubines, but rather by the narrow and terrible corridors, where so many bloody events took place, conspiracies were embodied, intrigues laced. And what do you want from a place where so many women live in a confined space? I recommend at least 4 hours to visit the palace. With an audio guide in Russian, walking around Topkapi will be doubly interesting. Online Palace Guide

Blue Mosque


Blue Mosque

The Blue Mosque is located in the heart of Istanbul's tourist - Sultanahmet Square, opposite Hagia Sophia. You can visit the mosque for free between prayers, you can take pictures inside, and to create an acceptable appearance at the entrance they give everything you need: skirts, scarves, scarves. The Blue Mosque is a very large-scale building, which is interesting to see from the outside, but inside everything looks even more interesting. It is because of the interior decoration, in which the blue tiles prevail, that the mosque got its name.

Hagia Sophia Cathedral


Hagia Sophia

Very ancient, very large, very impressive ... There is always a long line of tourists in Hagia Sophia because everyone wants to visit the Byzantine church and see the unique preserved murals and mosaics. After the capture of Constantinople by the Turks, the Cathedral was turned from a church into a mosque, as evidenced by the attached minarets. Now it acts as a museum, as a result of the restoration, it was possible to partially restore the examples of Byzantine culture covered with paint. By the way, if you are interested in this topic, I recommend visiting the Karie Museum (the former church of the Choir), in my opinion, even more impressive traces of the Byzantines have been preserved there.

Bosphorus


Definitely, for Istanbul, the Bosphorus is a real attraction. Without it, it would be a completely different Istanbul: without bridges, without fishermen, without arrogant and noisy gulls, without the smell of fried fish, without boat trips, etc. You can take a tour of the Bosphorus, which is offered at almost every step in Sultanahmet, or you can take a boat ride on a ferry that is included in the public transport network. In any case, Istanbul from the water is very impressive.

Galata Tower


Galata Tower

Galata Tower rises above the typically low old houses of Istanbul. In the past, its purpose changed depending on the needs of the city - from the lighthouse to the fire tower, and now the Galata Tower is interesting for tourists as an observation deck. From its height unbelievably beautiful views of Istanbul are opened, even the spirit in the literal sense of the word is breathtaking. And lovers of unusual places will appreciate the restaurant and night club, which are located within its walls. Read more about Galata Tower

Basilica Cistern


Basilica Cistern

The cistern is an underground water storage that used to be part of the city’s complex water supply system. Before the modern water supply system appeared, various structures were built throughout the city that distilled water (for example, aqueducts) and accumulated it (for example, tanks). The Basilica Cistern is the largest open to visit in Istanbul. The place is mysterious and mysterious, where in addition to water you can see the columns of different times, as well as the famous head of the Medusa Gorgon, which is upside down. Otherwise, whoever looks at her will forever turn into stone (well, they say so ...). Review of the visit to the tank

Suleymaniye Mosque


Sulaymaniyah

Suleimaniya was built on the orders of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, when he reached, by that standards, a fairly mature age of 30 years. This is not just a mosque, because its walls housed baths, schools and other social facilities.

Grand Bazaar


Grand Bazaar

How can you come to Turkey and not go to the bazaar? The Grand Bazaar is a gigantic covered market, you can even say a mini-city in a city where you can get lost. On its territory there is even a mosque. You can buy anything at the Grand Bazaar; you can bargain at least until you turn blue. In general, if this is all close to you, then be sure to visit, especially since it is located in the central part of the tourist Istanbul. More about the Grand Bazaar

Dolmabahce Palace


Dolmabahce Palace

This is the last palace of the Ottoman Empire, which was built after Topkapi. The Ottomans tried so hard to prove to Europe that their palaces were no worse, and even richer, that they built a completely European building, decorating it with an oriental scale: the more gold and crystal, the better. Actually, this completely ruined the Ottoman Empire (let's say, it helped), because the treasury was devastated, everyone threw it on a new palace. In addition, the palace is famous for the sad fact of the death of the father of Turkish democracy - Kemal Ataturk. Review of the visit to the palace

Archaeological Museum


Archaeological Museum

The Archaeological Museum is very close to Topkapi. I liked the collection of sarcophagi, but I recommend to inspect the collection with an audio guide, you will learn a lot of interesting things.

If you buy an Istanbul card 72, then these museums will be free: the Mosaic Museum, the Chora Church or in another way the Kariye Museum (highly recommend), the Museum of Islam.

Security in Istanbul

To begin with, Istanbul is quite a modern and civilized city. People rush to and from work, tourists walk with their mouths and shutters open, traders shout loudly at their store (no one is holding hands, this is not Antalya). In the tourist center of Istanbul, I have never felt uncomfortable, even in the dark. However, in Istanbul there are religious areas, poor areas, so I wouldn’t go for a walk there in the evenings, and even in a short skirt.

Well, in the tourist center you just have to follow the usual tourist safety rules.

Excursions in Istanbul, boat trip along the Bosphorus

In the Sultanahmet area, I saw quite a few tents offering excursions and other activities in Istanbul. Among them are one-day sightseeing tours in Istanbul, trips to Cappadocia, Troy, Ephesus and Pamukalle and many other programs. In addition, travel agencies offer tickets for the dervishes show, for a Turkish night, nightly dinner on boats, a visit to the Turkish bath, in general, typical Turkish entertainment.

Separately, it is worth noting sellers of boat trips along the Bosphorus. They are very intrusive, catch tourists near the sights. From my experience, I can advise you not to buy an excursion along the Bosphorus from them, it is better to go to the embankment (along the tram tracks towards the Galata bridge), there you will see a pier with numerous floating equipment of different calibers and a new portion of sellers of excursions. (My feedback on a walk along the Bosphorus, bought on Sultanahmet Square and on the waterfront).

Another interesting thing was that at around 8 pm I saw a ship with incendiary music on the pier near the Galata bridge, which called for a tour of the night Bosphorus with fun and a disco. Like Buratino, I was about to run there, dancing to loud music, but the bore next to me ruined my plans.

I did not see the offer of excursions in Russian, but perhaps they form Russian groups. Mostly Russians travel around Istanbul with private guides.

Excursions in Russian from local residents

The fact is that many guides who work with Russian tourists in Antalya move to Istanbul for the winter season and offer their services there. On one of my mom’s trips, I decided to try to hire a private guide to see the sights distant from the tourist center (link to the review). If you are coming to Istanbul for the first time and not for a very long time, then I would not recommend spending money on a private guide (about 200 euros for a 5-hour tour). Better buy a good guide, download information from the Internet and enjoy Istanbul. Fortunately, the main attractions are located in the center, or they can be reached by light rail (T1). If you do not like public transport and long walks, you can use the hop-on-hop-of tourist sightseeing bus, which rides around the city all day, stops near the main attractions. By paying once, you can go out and go into it again as many times as you like.

Tour Bus in Istanbul

CityTour in Istanbul is organized by two companies whose bright buses start their route in the heart of Istanbul - at Hippodrome Square in Sultanahmet. Simply put, as soon as you come to watch the Blue Mosque or Hagia Sophia, you will immediately see the parking lot, and the talkative Turks will come up and offer to sell tickets.

Generally speaking, I would recommend such sightseeing buses to those who are afraid to travel around an unfamiliar city by public transport, are too lazy to walk a lot, or want to see the city in one day. We did not use the services of tourist buses, because Istanbul is so interesting that I want to go on foot, chat with people, ride trams and the metro, and not look from the height of the second floor of the bus. But the taste and color, as they say ...

Cats in Istanbul

Every self-respecting tourist brings at least one photograph with an Istanbul cat. The thing is that cats are everywhere. They sleep on sultan sofas in museums, they watch you in mosques, they watch every shop. And as soon as a tired tourist with something tasty sits on a bench, the mustachioed beggar is right there. He sits and looks with begging eyes. And he is so well-fed, his hair is brilliant ... and only after a couple of hours of walking around the city do you realize that cats eat better than many Russian doctors.

Turks are very fond of cats, especially at a distance) Nobody is offended by them, that's why fluffies reciprocate, let themselves pet, some even purr.

In general, cats in Istanbul are a separate feature of the city, perhaps no less photographed than the Blue Mosque.

Istanbul Observation Decks

I managed to visit two viewing platforms of Istanbul, which are considered the best. The first of them is located on the hill of Chamlydzha. It is located at an altitude of more than 200 meters above the Bosphorus in an area called Beylerbeyi. We traveled to Chamlyca with a guide by car; you can independently get from Taksim Square by bus No. 129Т (to the stop Turistik Camlica Tesisleri). On the hill there is a pleasant park, a cafe with delicious tea and gozleme cakes and an observation deck with a panoramic view of Istanbul and the Bosphorus. However, we were not lucky with the weather, and we really did not see Istanbul.

The second famous observation deck of Istanbul is located in the modern part of the city, in a business center called Sapfir. You can get to Sapphire by metro. In addition to the panorama that opens from 52 floors, you can still fly by helicopter over Istanbul, looking into the 4D cinema. Review of the observation deck can be read here. .

Where to go from Istanbul

Depending on how much time you plan to stay in Istanbul, you can diversify your stay with short and not very excursions from Istanbul. There are numerous tents in the center of Istanbul offering excursions outside of Istanbul. The advertising booklet says that the tours are conducted in English. They offer trips to Troy, Pamukalla, Cappadocia, etc. Basically, such trips are 2-3 days. The booklet can be downloaded here.

A one-day excursion, which is easy to organize on your own, can be a ferry ride to the Prince Islands.

Not far from Istanbul are the Princes' Islands. The largest and most popular island is called Büyükada, the rest are smaller Heybeliada, Burgazada, Kınalıada, Sedefadası, Yassıada, Sivriada, Kaşıkadası, Tavşanadası. More about the islands

In summer, many tourists and the local population go to the islands for beach vacations. This, by the way, is the answer to the question of whether it is possible to swim in Istanbul. In colder times, it’s great in the Princes' Islands to walk along the neat streets without cars, ride horses or donkeys, and indeed, take a break from the hustle and bustle of Istanbul.

You can get to the Prince Islands by regular ferry from Istanbul's marinas: Kabataş, Kadıköy, Beşiktaş, and Bostancı. I recommend watching the schedule and ferry routes on the companies website: Şehir Hatları, İDO, TurYol, Dentur Avrasya.


  Weather in Istanbul

The summer season in Istanbul is very hot. For city tours it is better to choose the period from late March to mid November. But these are general rules that do not always work. I was in Istanbul twice for the November holidays and once at the end of February. Perhaps we were lucky, but in November we went in a thin jacket, and in the afternoon in a T-shirt, and in February in a thin unbuttoned jacket. Sometimes it rained a little, but not for long.

Just in case, I recommend taking clothes with you in case of heat, and in case of cold wind from the sea and rain. Umbrellas in many hotels give free of charge, and it is not difficult to buy an umbrella on the street, because as soon as it starts to drip from the sky, a lot of merchants with umbrellas appear on the streets for about $ 9.

From my travel experience, I can say that the most reliable way to understand what the weather will be in Istanbul at the time of your trip is to follow the forecast for 2 weeks, and then see what they promise 3 days before the trip and on the day of departure. Usually, what is promised is 70% what happens.

My trips to Istanbul

The first time I came to Istanbul almost spontaneously, we just discussed with colleagues about how we want to Istanbul, and after an hour we already booked tickets online. For 3 days we managed to visit the most popular attractions of the city (Top capa, Hagia Sophia, Archaeological Museum, Blue Mosque, Grand Bazaar, Basilica Cistern), take a boat ride and try real Turkish cuisine. My stories about this trip: part 1, part 2, part 3.

The next time I visited Istanbul in February and November of the following year, I saw other sights that are significant for Istanbul: Galata Tower, Kariye Museum, Maiden’s Tower, huge aqueduct   , Princes' Islands, Mihrimah Mosque, Dolmabahce Palace and many other places.

And for some reason it seems to me that I will return to Istanbul more than once, it is painfully difficult, vibrant, fragrant and interesting city.

Selection of hotels in Istanbul: prices, reviews, photos

To be honest, I didn’t want to go there at all. The city is positioned as a huge shopping center, where mainly shuttles travel to buy goods for their outlets, and it seemed to me that Istanbul is akin to Cairo - a dull, dusty and impoverished city, where natives jump out of every gateway and pull tourists by the sleeve into their gloomy little shops. Once in Istanbul, we found that this city is completely unlike any of the cities in Europe. However, it also does not look like traditional eastern cities.
  There are noisy ethnic bazaars where hundreds of merchants from deaf villages in the mountains bring their handicrafts, are adjacent to the dilapidated walls decorated with Byzantine mosaics, and people leave the tall buildings made of glass and metal to finish the evening prayer in ancient a mosque nearby. Where to live

If you like extreme sports and travel on your own, as we do, first of all you need to decide on your place of residence. The cheapest tickets to Istanbul cost about 10-14 thousand rubles, and hotels, like in Europe, can be booked via the Internet. At the same time, do not forget to check the map: in the safest areas of Istanbul, such as Zeytan Burnu, Kumburgaz, Aksaray and Laleli, it is better not to settle. In June this year, one of the stages of the Formula 1 race will be held in Istanbul. If you intend to visit the city at this time, it is worth making a reservation in advance.
  If there is no need to book in advance, then it is easiest to choose several hotels of a suitable price category in Taksim or Sultanahmet quarters, take an interest in available places and make a choice on the spot. The reason is simple: in some of the hotels there may not be hot water - you are unlikely to find out about this annoying circumstance when booking a hotel room through the network.
  The cost of living in these two areas is from 50 to 100 dollars per night in a three-star hotel. Hotels in the Taksim business district are more expensive than hotels in the Sultanahmet quarter. And the cheapest "three rubles" ($ 30-50) in the center, not far from the main city attractions, are near the Sirkeci station, where there used to be the terminal station of the famous Orient Express train from Paris. Our hotel with a standard morning Turkish feeding cost exactly $ 50 per person.
  And of course, we looked at the station. Now there is a restaurant on the walls of which there are photos from the film based on the novel “Murder on the Orient Express”.
  Other inexpensive hotels ($ 15-20 per day) that we found via the Internet back in Moscow have the obvious disadvantages of a two-star sign at the entrance and a long road to the center with many transfers. When examining a place of residence, by the way, it makes sense to ask if there is a separate bathtub and toilet in your future housing (in some hotels with attractive pricing and clean rooms, you have to share the amenities with the entire floor). Istanbul cannot be called a cheap city

  If you expect to spend up to $ 15 a day on accommodation, a private guesthouse might be the best option. In fact, this is an overnight stay in its purest form. As a rule, such establishments are cramped, but decent enough rooms with a loophole window and with conveniences on the floor, rented out by the owners who live here. Transport

The main places of tourist pilgrimage are concentrated in a small area that can be circumvented on foot, however, transport in Istanbul is quite developed. Buses run here, on the pedestals of which people hang in clusters at rush hour, there are three metro lines that do not communicate with each other. The metro finishes work at 9 pm, but there are also local Dolmush minibuses of awkward colors, and, of course, a lot of taxis. You should either negotiate with the taxi drivers mercilessly, agree in advance, or go over the meter, while the night tariff is one and a half times higher, and during the day taxi drivers are always ready to switch the meter from gunduz (day) to gece (night) with the most innocent look. The most convenient way to get around the city - trams   You will not be stuck in traffic jams for a long time, worrying about the readings of the taxi meter, and the huge windows will provide an opportunity to properly examine the city and its inhabitants. A tram ride in Istanbul is inexpensive (60-80 eurocents a ticket for one trip, which can be purchased at a kiosk near the tram stop). The procedure for using tickets is the same as in Russia: just put the ticket in the slot of the machine at the entrance and boldly go inside.
  If you are going to often use public transport, in the same place at the kiosk at the tram stop or at any station, buy akbil - a magnetic ticket. A certain amount is deposited on the ticket deposit - usually about $ 5, the fare is deducted from the account for each trip when the magnet is applied to the reader in a tram, metro or ferry terminal. Upon departure, the acbil can be returned to the kiosk, having received the rest of the money back.
  We found a very convenient way to explore the main attractions of the European part of the city: one of the Istanbul trams (No. 39, runs between Findikli Station and Zeytan Burnu Station) follows tourist routes exclusively. If you take a tram near the Grand Bazaar on the street Ordu Cadessi, which links the wholesale and retail area of \u200b\u200bAksaray and Sultanahmet, and heading towards Findikli, can visit the spice market, the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, the palace and the Topkapi harem. Official part

Europe and Asia in Istanbul oversee each other, separated by the Bosphorus: the greater half of the city is in Europe, on the "Asian territory" - a smaller and more modern part. The Golden Horn Bay, in turn, divides Europe into the New and Old Towns - the Beyoglu and Eminon districts. Parts of the city separated by water, people connected by bridges and ferry services. It is believed that Istanbul, like Moscow and Rome, is spread over seven hills, each of which has a mosque, but hills and hillocks in Istanbul, not to mention the myriad of mosques, our tired legs counted much more.
  Entrance to all mosques is free, unlike museums, where ticket prices start at $ 7.
  You’ll have to take off your shoes in the mosque, and women also need to wear a scarf. Before exploring the main tourist attractions in Istanbul, stock up on desires: one of them is useful in Hagia Sofia (in one of the columns in the northern nave, which can be identified by a handful of tourists, there is a hole where you put your thumb in and turn your hand, describing the circle clockwise arrow, if successful - will come true); the second - when you visit the Basilica Cistern, an ancient underground reservoir with columns (at the foot of one of the columns is the Wish Pool, it is customary to throw coins there and also make a wish). In the church of Balykly, which our acquaintances of Moscow Turks told us about (the current Greek Orthodox complex, go by tram No. 38 direction “Zeytan Burnu” to the stop Merkez Effendi, and there to ask for directions to “Kilisa” - the Christian church) do not forget to fall to the lively underground source. According to legend, he heals all diseases. And if you are planning on the island of Biyukada, (the largest of the Prens Adalary archipelago), where there are no cars, no buses and only live transport, you should know that on the top of the mountain is the locally famous little Greek church Ayia Yorgi, where you can record a wish on paper and put in a special vessel - they say they are executed. What to see

  The colorful oriental bazaars are one of those postcard types that we came to Istanbul for: here the chiller boy polishes shoes at the beginning of the century, and the merchant with patterned carpets treats you with delicious apple tea.
  In general, Istanbul has one large market, but there are two organized markets in the city - the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar.
The surrounding marinas of Istanbul are flooded with spontaneous fish markets where relatives of those fishermen who teem with fishing rods along the shores, on bridges and moorings sell their catch. Immediately on the market you can order "takeaway" cooking your favorite mullet (barbunya) or mackerel (lufer). If you dare to take such a step, keep in mind that the colors of the recently caught fish and eyes are brighter than those of its “stagnant” counterparts. If you calmly relate to the manner of trade of the Turks, do not accept any unplanned gifts and understand that the importunity of the street touts is just a part of their work, and equally applies to both Russian and other tourists, then you can even visit the eastern bazaar enjoy.
  Nevertheless, it is important for a foreign tourist in Istanbul to remember that communicating with Aborigines without an appropriate internal mood can turn out to be a hoax and provocation: any of the Turks you meet on your road may try to spin the tourist for money. For locals this is a kind of game, and they will not even mind if they point out a mistake. At the hotel it may turn out that you did not pay for your stay for one day or spoiled something from the property (when checking in in the presence of an employee, be sure to inspect the room, identify any malfunctions and indicate them). A passer-by shoe cleaner, after finding out that you are from Russia, may offer to clean your shoes for free, by virtue of respect for our great power, and then demand a completely indecent amount. It is likely that the merchant, who kindly treated you with tea and presented a souvenir from his shop, a minute later will begin to demand money for a gift (our man has already got used to this, relaxing in Turkish resorts). Nevertheless, people meet different: oddly enough, in Istanbul, a local young man in glasses brought us absolutely free to the station when we climbed far from the center and fished in desperation for a ride. Istanbul is amazingly big, don’t even think about getting around in the old city.   But in the evening to smoke a nargile and go to the pier in the morning and gawk at the Bosphorus, where the bridges are bristled with fishing rods and steamboats snooping here and there is a holy thing. Moreover, in the vicinity of any of the marinas there are many restaurants serving grilled fish, and its smell spreads no less than three kilometers. We discovered several ways to get to know the Bosphorus closer, but the first thought came to my mind: why not ....
If in Venice they travel on gondolas, in Istanbul they use the real “Sultan boats” that were previously exhibited in museums.
  Now several boats have returned to their usual marine life. On weekends, from 13.30 to 19.30, tourists are taken on these boats for an hour-long boat trip along the Bosphorus. The boats sail from Besiktas pier, each boat can accommodate 20 people, the cost is about 30 US dollars. Personnel serving the boats of the Sultan can be identified by the sign "Sultan kayiklari".
  Still, we did not dare to get into the boats of the Sultan, because this is quite an expensive pleasure, and you can ride along the Bosphorus on an ordinary steamboat. On the pier, passing the rows of moorings - each of which is responsible for its own route, and, having found a berth with the Bosporus Cruise sign, be prepared to be attacked by flocks of barkers praising their sightseeing tours of the Bosphorus on small private boats, with the only iron argument being “The best ”, and to pay for a trip on a boat alone will have to be quite expensive - $ 15-20 against three dollars in cash for a 5-hour boat trip.
  Istiklal Street, which runs from the Tünel district to the square, the heart of the Taksim business district in the Beyoglu district, where the White Guard emigrants lived during the Civil War, is a pedestrian area with an abundance of shops selling fashionable clothes for every taste and budget, and the prices here are lower than in Moscow - there really are places to take a walk. The street itself is narrow, paved with cobblestones, and surrounded by the walls of houses in the Art Nouveau style: where, if not here, were we to ride in the nineteenth century in a time machine, or rather, in an old-fashioned red tram?
  If you are hungry, Istiklal has many bars and restaurants with European and Turkish cuisine, although it is better not to try European dishes - the Turks do not know how to cook them.
  In general, it is better to dine in cafes for locals, they can be identified by the long rows of sedate elders who peacefully drink coffee on the street: a meal with shawarma and some baked meat cost three overeating tourists $ 18. Nearby, if you go along Istiklal Street in the direction of Taksim Square, countless fish restaurants are concentrated on Sahne Sokak Street, however, trendy shops are also present here. If you are not very hungry, try freshly squeezed pomegranate juice, here it is made right at you on every corner.
We make our way through a motley crowd of departing Turkish subjects: old men with large beards, dressed a la cabbage in a million clothes, girls in jeans and hijabs, bypassing a handful of villagers with colorful knots and baskets. We sit on the banilia (municipal train) at the Sirkesi station and go to the Yedikule station to look at the ancient castle of the same name on the outskirts of the city.
  This is the gates of Constantinople, the famous Byzantine Golden Gate, a typical Roman triumphal arch, under the arched gilded copper arches of which only the emperor had the right to pass.
  It was believed that it was through these gates that the liberator of Constantinople would someday enter the city, so the superstitious Ottoman ruler Mehmed the Conqueror ordered the Golden Gate to be rebuilt into a fortress. We walked from Yodikule station for about 15 minutes along the train towards the huge towers that are visible from the station, following the signs on the road. Think three times before climbing the towers: there are no railings or fences on the dilapidated stairs. In one of the towers on any day except Monday, you can see the museum of torture with existing exhibits.
  Oddly enough, the most European of all the streets of Istanbul, which is full of elegant boutiques and cafes is filled with fashionably dressed local youths and low-necked Turkish women located in the Asian part of the city - Bagdat (Caddesi) is a huge boulevard like the Champs Elysees in Paris. You can get to the Asian part of the city by ferry that departs from the quays of Eminon, Karaka or Besiktas every 10-30 minutes, the latest ferry leaves at 22:30.
  Upon closer inspection, it turns out that Istanbul, despite the bright oriental flavor and the calls of the muezzin, spreading around the city at sunset, is very similar to European cities. There are lots of banks, representative offices of many foreign companies, modern business and shopping centers and countless entertainment.
  However, the bitter truth is that Istanbul is still not a calm old Europe-woman: the attitude of girls in high heels walking alone through the streets is unambiguous.
The local male population in any restaurant will immediately ask single girls if they are Russian, and if so, they will offer you a car ride around the city or make a company for a disco. If your answer to the national question is “no”, you will be asked: “Or maybe you are Ukrainian?” What is curious, if you talk in English with each other and not mention your citizenship, the maximum that you will be offered is free tea and a business card. In this regard, the best option is to go to Istanbul with a male companion, the locals will not be tiring, annoying, but quite sociable and helpful, even if they just want to sell you something. And finally, a few facts about the real Istanbul 1. There is a myth in Istanbul that foreigners have a lot of extra money. There are few foreigners here, but there are many stray cats.

2. Istanbul can not be called a cheap city - the prices here are global.

3. The streets here are much cleaner than you thought.

4. There is a French quarter reminiscent of Montmartre - two small streets with residential buildings in the Parisian style, French restaurants with a decent selection of wines, cafes and bakeries. If you go to the Galatasaray school - the green building in the middle of Istiklal Street and go around it, just behind it, Cezayir Sokak street, you will find the French quarter. By the way, it was here, in Istanbul, at the Pera Palace Hotel, Agatha Christie wrote her book “Murder on the Orient Express” - hotel employees can tip the room in which the writer lived.

5. In Istanbul, everyone trades everything and always, everyone will be glad to offer the services of a guide, but you should not agree to this.

6. Half of the inhabitants of Istanbul catch fish, and the second half sells it. Near the Galata tower in fish restaurants they offer something like shawarma in a fried fish drink with the addition of herbs and seasonings.

7. Turkish national entertainment - play backgammon in bars. If you bring backgammon with you for fun, the waiter will give you a lot of attention, explaining the rules, and the evening will gain a distinctive oriental flavor.

8. Every self-respecting Istanbul man has a girl in Russia - for them it is something like an indicator of prestige. If there is no girl, it means that one of his relatives or friends works in Russia. TEXT: Arina V.
  PHOTO: kusadasiproperties.com

  Gate of Dolmabahce Palace

Turkey is known to most of our tourists as a beach holiday on an all-inclusive basis. Holiday packages to hotels in the Mediterranean sell many travel agencies. I can safely assure that almost every third   my friend flew on vacation to Turkey.
But in Istanbul   there were only those who bought a special tour for a couple of days from some Kemer or Antalya.


  Tourists from Iran

Riding during this time under the relentless stream of information from the guide the main sights of a huge metropolis, few people could really tell what they saw and remembered. Another category of our fellow citizens interested in Istanbul is fans who watch Turkish TV shows in Russian. Perhaps this addiction will make one of them lively get acquainted with the great city. For them and for everyone else who is interested in me, I am writing this article on how to visit Istanbul on your own with the maximum benefit and without any extra costs.


  Topkapi Palace Harem Interior

Interactive map of Istanbul hotels with prices and ratings:

How to get from Ataturk Airport to the city center

Arriving in Istanbul you find yourself in one of two   International airports it Ataturk   which is located near the center and Sabiha Gokcen. The first in its location should be considered as a priority, due to the fact that it is located directly close to the center.


  Istanbul city view

The second one was built so far on the Asian side that I would not consider it as an option so as not to waste precious time moving. And most flights from Russian cities land mainly in Ataturk. Let's look at the different ways to get from this airport to the center of Istanbul.


  Topkapi Palace Park Alleys

The distance from the airport to the square Taksim   is 23 kilometers long. To the area Sultanahmet   about 16 km.


  View from the balcony of the Gulhane Hotel

If you are planning a vacation in Istanbul for more than just a couple of days, it will be very convenient and profitable to buy Istanbulkart, which allows you to pay for almost all types of public transport in the city.


  Istanbul is a city of contrasts. Petrovich on the Bosphorus embankment

The cost of Istanbulkart is 6 lira (€ 1.8 / $ 2.0) and it is sold at the airport and in other places of the city in newsstands and other kiosks. Then you can simply upload money there, if necessary, there will be no difficulties with this.


  The stand with the name of the park Gulhane

Taxi Ataturk - Airport

Taxis are the fastest and most convenient way to leave Ataturk Airport. This is a very good option if you are traveling. with family and luggage.
Keep in mind that getting from the airport to Taksim by taxi can be stuck in traffic jam   1.5 hours during peak hours.


  Taxi at the Vodafon Arena stadium of the Besiktas team

You can find a taxi at Ataturk Airport, and taxi drivers usually accept payment, even in euros or dollars. However, do not expect your taxi driver to give you change from a large bill. There is a long line of taxis waiting for you at the exit of each terminal.
Travel time: from 30 to 40 minutes (in good road conditions)
Cost: $ 25- $ 30
Hours: 24 hours

Buses Havatas

Comfortable and spacious air-conditioned buses from the airport will help you get to Taksim with all your luggage. It is much cheaperthan taking a taxi, since you save up to $ 25 for the same route. And the travel time is almost the same.
However, you may have to wait up to 30 minutes to pick up a bus from the airport, and a taxi can pick you up from the airport right away.


  The fence and alley of the Dalmabahçe Palace

Itinerary: Airport - Coast Road - Bakirkey - Yenikapi - Aksaray (Marmaray) - Taksim.
Travel time: 40 to 50 minutes
Cost: 12 lire ($ 4)
Opening hours: 04:00 - 01:00 daily
  Schedule: Departure every 30 minutes.


Istanbul metro

In my opinion, the metro is the best option, quickly and without traffic jams, with a suitcase on rollers I stormed it successfully even at rush hour and transfers did not greatly impede my movement. The station is just a few minutes walk from the airport.


  Topkapi, the gallery of the palace

Take the metro (red line M1) to Yenikapa, and then go to the green line m2, and the train will take you to Taksim Square.
Journey time: 45 minutes
Cost: 4 TL (2.3 TL via Istanbulkart) \u003d $ 1.3 ($ 0.77)
Opening hours: 06:00 - 00:00 daily
  Schedule: with an interval of 3 minutes at rush hour and 6-9 minutes at rush hour.
To get to Sultanahmet: Take the metro (red line M1) to Zeytinburnu, and then take the tram (line T1) that goes to the Kabatash stop, get off at Sultanahmet at any stop such as Bayazet, Sultanahmet or Gulhane.

In all my travels to Istanbul, I settle in hotels in the Sultanahmet area to be within walking distance to the main attractions. If you use the service - Booking hotels with   discount   - then it comes out quite acceptable!


  Istanbul tram is quite convenient for moving around the city
White tulips in Gulhane Park

10 attractions that you must visit while in Istanbul.

Istanbul's charm lies in its strategic location between the continents of Europe and Asia. Therefore, a large number of people come every year to see the best of both worlds and get the experience of European and Asian life, which is uniquely combined in this one of the unofficial world capitals.
There are many interesting places in Istanbul. This historic city is a great place accessible to everyone, from the rich and famous to the most economical tourists.


For your consideration, I present a list of the top 10 attractions that you need to visit in Istanbul. Each item is selected to get maximum experience with minimum cost.

  1. Cruise between two continents (Bosphorus cruise)

The Bosphorus Strait is a strategic waterway that connects the Black Sea with the Sea of \u200b\u200bMarmara, which separates Europe and Asia.


  Bosphorus

On its banks you can see stunning architectural structures, from imperial palaces, mosques, towers and residential buildings in historical and modern style. Most of the sights of Istanbul can be seen from the strait.


  Bosphorus Tour Schedule
  Bosphorus Cruise Schedule

A boat trip along the Bosphorus gives us a very rare opportunity to see the sights of two continents - Europe and Asia - in the same breath. In the East lies the Asian part of Turkey, while the European side lies in the West.


  Yacht in the Sea of \u200b\u200bMarmara

It is also a good option for those who do not have enough time in the city to see the many key attractions of the city. A water cruise tour is a smart way to enjoy the scenic views of Istanbul on one trip.


  Curious seagull

Do not forget to take a camera and take a picture of yourself when you are between Europe and Asia!

2. Visit to the Hagia Sophia

hagia Sophia is considered one of the seven wonders of the medieval world and was chosen as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.
This architectural masterpiece was originally built as the church of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I between 532 and 537 AD. e. It was the largest cathedral in the world for almost a thousand years and was subsequently used as a mosque after the conquest of Constantinople. In 1934, it was transformed into a museum on the orders of the First President of Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk.


The fact that he is one of the 7 wonders of the world is a good reason to visit this attraction.
  Combining a unique interior with magnificent domes, graceful Christian mosaics, this work of art amazes to the core.


  View of Hagia Sophia from the Blue Mosque

Throughout the centuries, Hagia Sophia has been important to the Christian and Muslim world. You need to visit this place to learn more about history and look into the old days and stand on the spot where the great rulers once stood.


  Hagia Sophia

The dome of the Hagia Sophia is considered one of the largest domes of the cathedral in the world. It is not amenable to the laws of physics and gravity with a height of 55.60 meters and a width of 31.87 meters.


  The surviving fresco of Hagia Sophia

Go through the door of the emperor, which is believed to be made of wood from Noah's ark. This is the largest door in Sofia at 7 meters with bronze frames and bronze-gilded sheets. The door was built exclusively for the Byzantine emperors and thus got its name.


  Vaults and dome of Hagia Sophia

Make a wish on a wish column in northwestern Sofia. This column has healing properties after the emperor Justinian, when he received relief from a severe headache after leaning on it. Insert your thumb into the hole of the column, turn it fully clockwise and make a wish!

3. Visit the Blue Mosque

The Blue Mosque, officially a functioning mosque, was built at the beginning of the 17th century, during the reign of Sultan Ahmed, as a rival to the Hagia Sophia with its 6 minarets and many domes. Inside you can see more than 20,000 blue tiles in various designs, which gave the mosque its name.


  Portal of the Blue Mosque and Rotunda

The Blue Mosque remains the most visited mosque in Turkey. It is open even to non-believers for free.
Visitors come to admire its classical Ottoman architecture both from the courtyard, and once inside, standing under huge domes and enjoying the beauty of tile design in the gallery.


  Blue Mosque, prayer

In the dark, the mosque is beautifully illuminated by colorful lights.

The Blue Mosque is closed to non-believers during certain hours of prayers, so plan your visit. Visitors must go through security screening, enter through a separate door and unshoe. Women need to be in a closed dress and wear handkerchief. Scarves can be taken for free near the entrance. The use of flash is not allowed.

4. Introduce the life of the Sultan and his courtiers in the Topkapi Palace

Topkapi Palace is one of the most popular places to visit in Istanbul. It is located on a hilltop overlooking the Sea of \u200b\u200bMarmara, the Bosphorus, and the Golden Horn Bay.


The palace served as the administrative center and main residence of the Ottoman Sultans for almost 400 years between the 15th and 19th centuries.


This monument is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A tour of the palace gives an idea of \u200b\u200bthe luxurious life of the Ottoman Sultans and their families.


  View of the Topkapi Palace from the ship going along the Bosphorus

Also visit the harem, where you can see many rooms where the Sultan's wives, children, other relatives, concubines and eunuchs were located.
In Topkapi you can find weapons that were used in the Ottoman army, jewelry and other valuable treasures of the imperial treasury.

5. Take a walk in Gulhane Park

Gulhane Park is located in the historical center of Istanbul and is adjacent to the Topkapi Palace.


  Gulhane Park Tower, Tram Stop Nearby

Spring is full of tulips and beautiful at any time of the year. On the terraces of the park there are several outdoor cafes where you can drink Turkish tea or coffee and enjoy the best views of the Bosphorus in the city. The park is located column   18 meters high is called Gothic, it was set in the period of 3-4 centuries AD in honor of the victory over the Germanic tribes of the Goths. One of the ancient monuments of Roman architecture, preserved to our time.


6. View of the city and the Galata tower from the Suleymaniye Mosque

Sulaymaniyah is the largest mosque in Istanbul. Built by order of Suleiman the Magnificent. At the mosque, Sultan Suleiman himself and his famous wife Alexandra Anastasia Lisowska were buried.


Galata Tower,   also known as Tower of christ, Is a medieval stone tower in Istanbul. The 9-story tower was built in 1348 Genoese   It is 66.90 meters high, was the tallest building in Istanbul at the time of completion of its construction.


  View from Sulaymaniyah to the Galata Tower

The tower survived several restorations after it was damaged many times. Even left without its conical roof after a major storm in 1875. It was restored only in the 60s of the last century.


7. Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar (Kapali Charshi) in Istanbul is considered the oldest and largest of the indoor markets in the world. It was built more than 500 years ago, shortly after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople.
The bazaar spans 61 streets with over 4,000 stores selling a wide range of products such as carpets, leather, ceramics, clothing, and souvenirs.


Trading places are grouped according to their goods, for the convenience of buyers to find what they need. Special areas are allocated for valuable items such as gold   and jewelry.

The Grand Bazaar gives us an idea of \u200b\u200blife in former times. Although much has changed over time, the true feelings of the Turkish market are still evident.
You can try your bargaining skills in the bazaar and get good value for money.


  Petrovich exploring Gulhane Park

If you are not going to buy anything, you can just sit in one of more than 60 restaurants and cafes and look at this crazy anthill.
Shopping tips
Never pay the stated price in advance. Always bargain! A 35% discount is a good deal.
Keep a close eye on your purchases and things. Sometimes, careless shoppers fall prey to pickpockets.

8. Look at the grand Dolmabahce Palace

It is located on the European shore of the Bosphorus. This historical monument was built in the 19th century, and combines many styles of European architecture. The palace served as the administrative center and residence of the six Sultans in 1856-1922.


9. Visiting museums in Istanbul
  Epic Gilgamesh with a Staff and Vine

Istanbul has a rich history as a strategic center that spans two continents. Museums in Istanbul provide an opportunity for visitors to see the colorful past of the city and better understand Turkish culture.


  Ritual "font"

There are about 30 museums in Istanbul that demonstrate archeology, art, literature, and military history of the museum.

Best museums to visit in Istanbul

The Archaeological Museum is three in one: the museum complex, which houses archaeological Museum, museum of the Ancient East, and museum of ceramics.


  One of the mosaic lions Ishtar

Here you can see the authentic sarcophagus. Alexander the Great. The objects of art of Ancient Greece, Egypt, Sumer and Babylon are represented in large numbers in many halls. To get around it, you have to spend the whole day, and it's worth it. At one time, the Turkish Empire owned the entire Middle East and stocked up quite well with the cultural objects of various ancient civilizations.


  Ocean. Istanbul Archaeological Museum

Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art   located in the old palace of Ibrahim Pasha, the first Great Vizier of the Ottoman Empire. The museum displays giant carpets that hang from the ceiling and a Turkish yurt. Do not forget to have a cup of Turkish coffee in the museum's coffee shop.

  Roman Emperor Octavian Augustus
10. Princes' Islands in the Sea of \u200b\u200bMarmara

These islands are one of the districts of Istanbul, called Adalar in Turkish. The easiest way to get there is on one of the small ships departing from the western (European) part of Istanbul.


The pier is located near the final stop of the tram route (t1) called Kabatash. A one-way ticket costs 6 lira, ships ply quite often with two stops on the island Heybeliadasecond largest and largest Buyukada.


  Petrovich on the largest of the Prince Islands

During swimming, you can enjoy the views and feed the arrogant gulls with Turkish bagels "simits". On the islands, internal combustion engines are prohibited, in order to maintain clean ecologists. Although I think more for color.


Locals travel by electric cars, tourists are offered to ride on phaetons or rent a bike. I didn’t go to the chaise, as the horses constantly crap and not on asphalt, but in a bag tied behind them and in front of the chaise.


Considering it a dubious pleasure to enjoy a fresh horse "amber" while traveling around the island. He walked up one and a half hours to the highest point of the island and went down to the other side. The obligatory program of visiting the island includes dinner   in one of the many restaurants fish cuisinelocated next to the pier.

There are several islands the beaches, tourists and residents of Istanbul have a rest and bathe there.


  It looks like a pagan temple with a horse skull

Should I go to Turkey today?

The state of the Turkish tourism industry for 2017 can be seen from the schedule of visits by foreigners to the country and the profit made.


  Tourism in Turkey, condition for 2017

Both indicators after failure   2015-2016 is rapidly growing upt, and the outstripping growth in the number of tourists from a slower increase in profits suggests that tourists optimize their travel expenses and independent   a visit to Turkey and Istanbul is chosen as the best method of tourism with difficult to predict foreign policy complications.