What does apsny mean in Abkhazian? Apsny. Why is it worth visiting Abkhazia

Abkhazia



Abkhazia(abh. Aҧsny [apsny] , - Republic of Abkhazia;



a state in the western part of the South Caucasus, on the southeastern coast of the Black Sea.


It consists of 7 historical regions (the 7 stars on the state flag remind of this) - Sadzyn (Dzhigetia), Bzypyn, Gumma, Abzhua, Samyrzakan, Dal-Tsabal, Pskhu-Aibga.


The vast majority of the current population of Abkhazia was granted Russian citizenship. Abkhazia issues its own postage stamps. The Russian ruble is used as the monetary unit; in addition, from September 26, 2008, the National Bank of Abkhazia introduced commemorative and anniversary coins of the Abkhazian monetary unit apsar into circulation.

Geography

Abkhazia is located in the northwestern part of Transcaucasia between the rivers Psou and Ingur, in the southwest it is washed by the Black Sea. The coast, more than 210 km long, is slightly indented, with wide pebble beaches often found.

The climate of Abkhazia is determined by its coastal position and the presence of high mountain ranges.

On the coast the climate is humid subtropical. The average temperature in January is from +2 to +4 °C. The average temperature in August is from +22 to +24. The average precipitation is about 1500 mm per year.


In the mountains it is clearly expressed altitudinal zone, which causes large differences in the climate of different mountainous areas. Subtropical climate in the mountains it extends to approximately 400 m. Eternal snow lies at an altitude of 2700-3000 m.


Most of the territory of the republic (about 75%) is occupied by spurs Main (Watershed) Ridge, bordering Abkhazia from the north, - Gagrsky, Bzyb, Abkhaz and Kodori ranges. The highest point of the ridge is Mt. Dombay-Ulgen(4046 m). The passes leading to Abkhazia through the Main Range are Klukhorsky (2781 m), Marukhsky (2739 m) and others.


From the southeast it enters Abkhazia, gradually narrowing, Colchis Lowland. A narrow strip of lowland stretches along the coast northwest of the Kodor River. Between the mountains and lowlands there is a belt of hilly foothills. Abkhazia has developed karst phenomena ( Voronya caves, Abrskila , Anakopia and etc.). In Abkhazia there is the deepest karst cave in the world - the Krubera-Voronya cavity (depth 2080 meters), located not far from Gagra. Six kilometers from Gagra there is the picturesque Mount Mamzyshkha.


The rivers belong to the Black Sea basin. The most significant of them - Kodor (Kudry), Bzyb, Kyalasur, Gumista - are high-water, rich in hydropower (potential hydropower resources are over 3.5 million kW). The rivers are fed primarily by rain and snow; There is a spring-summer flood. There are lakes in the mountains Ritsa and Amtkyal


Flora and fauna


The flora of Abkhazia includes more than 2000 plant species. Over 55% of the republic's area is covered with forests. In the Black Sea region, which is most developed for cultivated vegetation (subtropical, industrial, fruit and ornamental crops, grain crops, etc.) and in the gorges, there are separate tracts of broad-leaved forests (hornbeam, hornbeam, oak, chestnut, etc.) and alder forests. At Cape Pitsunda, a grove of relict Pitsunda pine has been preserved. The mountains are dominated by beech trees (in some places with boxwood in the second layer), on the upper part of the slopes there are fir and spruce forests. From 2000 m subalpine crooked forests, alpine meadows and rocky-crushed vegetation begin.


In the forests there are bear, wild boar, lynx, red deer, and roe deer; in the highlands - chamois, Caucasian black grouse; in the lowlands - the jackal; in rivers and lakes - trout, salmon, carp, pike perch and other types of fish. On the territory of Abkhazia there are Ritsinsky, Gumistsky, Pitsundsky nature reserves.

Religion

According to surveys, the distribution of confessions in 2003 was as follows.



60% are Christians


16% are Muslims


3% - adherents of the Abkhaz religion


5% - pagans


8% - atheists and non-believers


2% - other religions


6% found it difficult to answer


Cities
  • Sukhum

  • Gagra

  • Gudouta

  • Gulrypsh

  • New Athos

  • Ochamchira

  • Pitsunda

  • Tkuarchal

Towns and villages
  • Adzyubzha

  • Alakhadzy

  • Atara

  • Achandara

  • Baslahu

  • Bzypta

  • Blabyrkhua

  • Gulripsh

  • Gyachrypsh

  • Duripsh

  • Zvandripsh

  • Ilor

  • Caldajuara

  • Kutol

  • Lykhny

  • Machar

  • Mokva

  • Pskhu

  • Tamysh

  • Tahini

  • Huap

  • Tsandripsh

  • Chlow

  • Escher

ABKHAZIANS- one of the oldest indigenous ethnic groups of the Caucasus, the language, culture and traditions of which are closest and related to the North Caucasian peoples: Abaza, Adyghe, Kabardians, Circassians, Ubykhs. Linguistically, they all form the Abkhaz-Adyghe group of the North Caucasian family of languages.

Abkhazians are a young literate people. They use the alphabet created in 1862 by linguist P.K. Uslar based on Russian graphics, improved by Abkhaz scientists.
The number of Abkhazians in the Republic of Abkhazia according to the 1989 census is 93.2 thousand people, in total in the Russian Federation and the CIS countries - 105 thousand people. They live in Turkey and other countries - more than 600 thousand people.
Abkhazians profess various beliefs: traditional religion (paganism), Christianity (Orthodoxy), Islam (Sunni).
The first mentions of Abkhazia are contained in Assyrian sources of the 12th century. BC e. (inscription of Tiglath-pileser I) under the name "abeshla", and in the 1st-2nd centuries. n. e.
“Apsils” and “Abazgis” have been recorded.
Their genetic connection with the Abkhaz people is indicated by the ethnonyms “Apsua” (the self-name of the Abkhazians), “Abaza” (the self-name of the Abazins, related to the Abkhazians), “Obezy” of the Russians and “Abkhazians” of the Georgian chronicles. "Apsny", i.e.

“Country of the soul” - this is what the Abkhazians call their homeland.

The ancestors of the Abkhazians were one of the creators of megalithic (dolmens, cromlechs) culture in the Western Caucasus in the 3rd millennium BC. e., and at the beginning of the 1st millennium BC. e. Colchis-Koban metallurgical province. In the VIII-VII centuries. BC e. they mastered the skills of producing and processing iron, which were clearly reflected in the heroic Nart epic of the Abkhazians in the image of the blacksmith Ainar.

Through the territory of Abkhazia along the Meoto-Colchis road in the 7th-6th centuries. BC e. Scythians passed through Western Asia, some of whom settled and mixed with the local ancient Abkhazian population.
The way of urban life (Dioscuriada - modern Sukhum, Guenos, Esher settlement, Pitiunt - modern Pitsunda), statehood was brought to the territory of Abkhazia by the Greeks in the first half of the 6th century. BC e., which then connected local surrounding communities into a single system of economic relations.

In the first centuries A.D. e. the ancient Abkhazian tribes were united into early class formations (Abasgia, Apsilia, Sanigia), which were an organic, albeit peripheral part of the Roman-Byzantine cultural world. There were Roman cohorts in the coastal fortresses of Pitiunta, Sebastopolis and Ziganis, and in Egypt there was the “First Cohort of the Abasgians”.
In the VI-VIII centuries. n. e. Three branches of the Great Silk Road passed through Abkhazia to the North Caucasus (roads through Abasgia, Apsilia and Misiminia).
In the 11th-7th centuries. n. e. ancient Abkhazian tribes created a distinctive “Tsebelda culture”. The earliest swords in the territory of the former USSR dating from the 111th to the 4th centuries were found in local military graves. made of Damascus steel.

According to church tradition, the ancestors of the Abkhazians heard the first Christian sermon from the lips of the apostles Andrew the First-Called and Simon the Zealot. At the end of 111-IV centuries. The first Christian community in the Caucasus was formed in Pitiunt, which Bishop Stratophilus represented at the first Ecumenical Church Council in Nicaea in 325. Officially, the local population adopted Christianity in the 6th century. under Emperor Justinian the Great. The first shepherd among the Abasgi was Euphrates, and among the Apsils it was Constantine. A school was founded in Constantinople, where children of the Abasgians were specially educated. The ancient Georgian source “The Martyrdom of Abo Tbileli” (8th century) directly speaks of the Christ-loving “Country of Abkhazia,” which indicates the formation of the Abkhaz feudal nation.

During the VIII-X centuries. There was an Abkhazian kingdom, the first king of which was Leon II, the son of the daughter of a powerful Khazar kagan. Being a shield against Arab invasions, it objectively led to the unification of the entire Western Transcaucasia. It reached its peak in the 10th century under George II, who actively contributed to the Christianization of Alanya. During this period, a special Abkhaz-Alan school of Byzantine architecture stood out in local church architecture.
The dynasty of the Abkhazian kings ended in the male line with the death of the childless Theodosius the Blind, and power passed to his nephew Bagrat III (978-1014), who was Georgian on his father's side, but the Abkhazian throne was inherited on the maternal side of the Leonid dynasty (Abkhazian Gurandukht, sister of Theodosius ). Bagrat III compiled a family tree of the Abkhaz kings to emphasize his connection with this particular dynasty. It began the formation of a new state - the “kingdom of the Abkhazians and Kartvelians,” which continued to be called “Abkhazian” for some time.

In the 13th century, the “kingdom of the Abkhazians and Kartvelians” collapsed. In XIII-XVBB. Abkhazia was in the sphere of political and economic influence of Genoa, which founded a number of trading posts on the Black Sea coast of Crimea and the Caucasus.

In the XVI-XVIII centuries. The Abkhazian principality was under the protectorate of Sultan Turkey. Sunni Islam is spreading.

From the end of the 18th century, under the ruler Keleshbey Chachba (Shervashidze), the Abkhaz principality again strengthened and, with the help of the fleet, controlled the Black Sea coast from Anapa to Batum.

In July 1810, a Russian naval landing took the Sukhum-Kale fortress in battle. The legitimate ruling prince Aslanbey Chachba left the fortification. Coastal Abkhazia, with the exception of free mountain societies, was annexed to Russia. The royal authorities elevated their protégé Seferbey Chachba to the Abkhaz throne, who was baptized and given a new name, George. One of the distinctive features of the Abkhaz principality is that, unlike Georgia, it did not completely lose its statehood when it joined Russia. From 1810 to 1864 The Abkhazian principality retained autonomous governance within Russia and existed longer than others in the Caucasus.

From 1864 to 1917 Abkhazia (“Sukhumi military department”, “Sukhumi district”) was subordinated to the tsarist administration in the Caucasus.

In the 19th centuries, Abkhazia still occupied an intermediate position between the democratic free societies of the mountaineers of the North-West Caucasus and the feudal system of Georgia. However, in the spirit of the social structure, it was more closely connected with the Circassian-Ubykh world. In Abkhazia there was no feudal ownership of land, there was no serfdom, and free community members made up almost the entire 3/4 of the country's population.

Elements of the tribal system and pagan beliefs were firmly integrated into the system of “mountain feudalism” of Abkhazia. The basis of the social structure of Abkhazia was the rural community ("akyta"), which united all segments of the population - upper and lower classes - and was imbued with the dairy kinship ("atalychestvo") of feudal lords and peasants. In this way, some class contradictions were also mitigated.

Under the conditions of farmstead land ownership, arable plots were not the property of the entire community, but were the family or household property of the Abkhazians. Only pastures and forests were common to everyone and open for shared use.
The Abkhaz economy was of a subsistence nature. They were engaged in cattle breeding, agriculture, winemaking, beekeeping, processing of metals, leather, wood, pottery and saddlery, weaving, making gunpowder, etc. The Abkhazians traditionally disliked any manifestations of commodity-money relations.

As a result of the Caucasian War and the anti-colonial uprisings of 1866 and 1877, the Abkhazians experienced an ethnic catastrophe. More than half of the population was forced to leave their homeland and become refugees - Muhajirs.
A stream of new settlers poured into Abkhazia, primarily Georgians (mainly Mingrelians), as well as Armenians, Greeks, Russians, Bulgarians, Germans, Estonians, etc. Thus, in 1886, Abkhazians made up 85.7%, and in 1897 - 55, 3% of the population.

After the collapse of the Russian Empire, Abkhazia joined the Union of United Highlanders of the Caucasus and the South-Eastern Union. On November 8, 1917, at the congress in Sukhum, the first parliament was elected - the Abkhaz People's Council, which adopted the Constitution and Declaration of the Abkhaz people.

On May 11, 1918, at the Batumi Peace Conference, the Mountain Republic (North Caucasus Republic) was proclaimed.
Along with Dagestan, Chechnya, Ossetia, Kabarda, Abkhazia also became part of it. Abkhaz statehood, lost in 1864, was restored.
In June 1918, in violation of all agreements, troops of the newly proclaimed Democratic Republic of Georgia (May 26, 1918), with direct military support from Germany, occupied the territory of Abkhazia. The government of the Mountain Republic expressed a sharp protest to Georgia and the German government and regarded these actions as an act of aggression against Abkhazia and the entire North Caucasus state.
The policy of the Georgian government caused extreme discontent among the multinational population of Abkhazia, which facilitated the establishment of Soviet power here on March 4, 1921. The new regime was perceived as a deliverance from the repression and armed intervention of the Georgian Republic.
First, the Bolsheviks granted Abkhazia freedom of political choice, which was realized by the proclamation by its Revolutionary Committee of the independent SSR of Abkhazia (March 31, 1921). The uniqueness of the political situation was that Abkhazia was independent from both Soviet Russia and Soviet Georgia for about a year.

In December 1921, Abkhazia, under strong pressure from Joseph Stalin, Ordzhonikidze and others, was forced to conclude a “special union treaty” with Georgia, ratified in February 1922, which essentially fixed the equality of the two republics. The nature of interstate relations between Abkhazia and Georgia is reflected in the Constitution of the SSR of Abkhazia of 1925 and in the Constitution of the Georgian SSR of 1927, which emphasizes that the Georgian SSR is a state built on federal principles (Article 2).

The first Soviet Constitution was adopted in Abkhazia in April 1925 by the Ill All-Abkhaz Congress of Soviets. Abkhazia then adopted its own Constitution, like other union republics, unlike the autonomous ones, which did not have one. During this period of the SSR, Abkhazia in its status was not autonomous, but a union republic with the status of a sovereign state (Article 5 of the Constitution of Abkhazia of 1925). That is why the Constitution of Abkhazia of 1925 was not subject to approval in other structures. The decision of the Congress of Soviets on this issue was considered final. Abkhazia was not part of Georgia.

In 1924-1925 The Coat of Arms and Flag of the SSR of Abkhazia were approved, legislative acts of a constitutional nature were adopted, codes were put into effect: criminal, civil, criminal procedure, land, forestry.
Until 1931, the SSR Abkhazia was called a “treaty” republic. Under pressure from Stalin, the treaty SSR Abkhazia was transformed into an autonomous republic (Abkhaz ASSR) and included in the Georgian SSR. This issue was considered at the VI Congress of Soviets of Abkhazia (February 11, 1931), although it was not on the agenda, and then in Tbilisi the VI All-Georgian Congress of Soviets on February 19, 1931 adopted a resolution on the transformation of the SSR of Abkhazia into an autonomous republic.
The violation of the sovereign rights of Abkhazia, the reduction of its status to the level of autonomy within Georgia led to a multi-day national gathering of the Abkhaz people (February 18-26, 1931), which expressed no confidence in the government and Soviet power.

After the death of the head of Abkhazia Nestor Lakoba (poisoned by Beria in December 1936 in Tbilisi), the most tragic period in the modern history of Abkhazia began. Terror fell on the republic, leading to the complete destruction of the political and intellectual elite of the Abkhaz people. The Georgianization policy was pursued at an accelerated pace:
School education for children was transferred from Abkhazian to Georgian, Abkhazian writing was replaced by a Georgian graphic basis, native Abkhazian toponyms were replaced by Georgian ones, and an assimilatory resettlement policy was purposefully pursued, aimed at deforming the ethno-demographic structure of the population.

For the period 1937-1953. Tens of thousands of Georgians were resettled from the interior regions of Georgia to Abkhazia, which significantly increased their share in the population of Abkhazia (6% in 1886; 24% in 1897; 30% in 1939; 39.1% in 1959).
The demographic expansion of Georgians in Abkhazia, encouraged by Tbilisi, was carried out in a veiled form during the post-Stalin period. Mass rallies and demonstrations demanding the secession of Abkhazia from Georgia took place in 1957, 1964, 1967, 1978, 1989.

The Parliament of Georgia unilaterally began to make decisions (resolutions of 1989-1990) that ignored the interstate nature of relations between Abkhazia and Georgia and essentially led to the abolition of Abkhaz statehood. Tbilisi has declared all Soviet-era state structures illegal and invalid since February 1921. In response, the Supreme Council of the Abkhaz Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic adopted the Declaration of State Sovereignty of Abkhazia on August 25, 1990.
Having come to power as a result of an armed coup in Tbilisi, the Military Council of Georgia in February 1992 decided to abolish the Constitution of the Georgian SSR of 1978 and to transfer the Republic of Georgia to the Constitution of the Democratic Republic of Georgia of 1921, in which the Abkhaz ASSR as a subject of state-legal relations does not appears. Legally, the Georgian SSR ceased to exist, and a new state was formed, with which the Abkhaz ASSR had no relationship.

In order to overcome the legal unsettlement between the republics, the Supreme Council of Abkhazia on July 23, 1992 decided to restore the 1925 Constitution of Abkhazia on the territory of Abkhazia, and also adopted a new Coat of Arms and Flag of the Republic of Abkhazia.

On August 14, 1992, Georgia, which had just joined the UN, launched a war against Abkhazia. Georgian troops, supported by military aircraft, more than a hundred tanks, other armored vehicles, and artillery, invaded Abkhazia and occupied part of its territory.

They shot civilians, subjected them to torture and violence, burned houses and villages, and carried out reprisals not only against the Abkhazian, but also against the Armenian, Russian, and Greek populations. Ethnic cleansing was carried out in the occupied territory. In addition to physical extermination, a policy of cultural genocide was also pursued.
Monuments of history and culture of the Abkhaz people, museums and libraries were destroyed, theaters, institutes, schools, archives, and the university were destroyed, robbed and burned. The most valuable records of folklore, linguistic materials, historical documents, rare books and manuscripts were lost.

On September 30, 1993, after more than 13 months of occupation, the entire territory of Abkhazia was liberated.
From November 1993 to the present, under the auspices of the UN, with the mediation of Russia and with the participation of the OSCE, Georgian-Abkhazian negotiations have been ongoing. A number of important documents were signed, in particular, the “Statement on Measures for a Political Settlement of April 4, 1994.”
From May - June 1994, thanks to a peacekeeping operation carried out under the auspices of the UN (CIS troops and UN military observers), there was a ceasefire on the border between Abkhazia and Georgia. The return of refugees to the Gali region has begun. The negotiation process continues.

On November 26, 1994, the parliament of the republic adopted a new Constitution of the sovereign Abkhaz state, a subject of international law. Abkhazian is recognized as the state language of the Republic of Abkhazia, and Russian, along with Abkhazian, is the language of state and other institutions. State power is exercised on the basis of division into legislative, executive and judicial.
Abkhazia is a presidential republic. The parliament elected Vladislav Ardzinba as the first president.

From December 1994 to September 1999, Abkhazia and its people, like no other country in the world, were subjected to the most severe political, economic and information blockade.

After the devastating Georgian-Abkhaz war, the country's economy, culture, science and education began to revive. Year after year, the production of tea, citrus fruits, and tobacco increases, resorts in Sukhum, Pitsunda, Gagra come to life, thousands of vacationers again began to visit the New Athos cave, the monastery and Lake Ritsa.
The Abkhaz State University, the Abkhaz Institute of Humanitarian Research, and national creative unions of artists, writers, journalists, composers, and architects have resumed their work.
The Academy of Sciences of the Republic of Abkhazia was founded. In the new conditions, the Abkhaz television and radio, the Abkhaz book publishing house, magazines, newspapers, including independent ones, are functioning.
Folk choreographic groups, pop and children's musical ensembles, productions of the Abkhaz State Theater, art exhibitions, youth festivals, and competitions are very popular. The intelligentsia of Abkhazia carries out a great deal of research and creative work in various fields of science, education and culture.

Oleg Bgazhba
Doctor of Historical Sciences

Stanislav Lakoba
Professor

How to translate the word-apsny and got the best answer

Answer from Bozzy[guru]
"Country of the Soul", "Land of the Soul" (Abkhazia). There is a legend according to which God called all nationalities to himself to distribute lands on our planet. Everyone came and received land, finally the Abkhaz was the last to come, but God said that he was late and he no longer had land. Abkhaz prayed: “I could not come on time, Lord, because I was receiving dear guests.” “God answered: “Since you are so hospitable, I will give you the land that I left on Earth for myself, and I myself will remain in heaven ". Since then, for their complacency and hospitality, the Abkhazians have lived on the land, which they themselves called the “Country of the Soul” (in Abkhazian - Apsny)

Answer from Anna Krasnova[guru]
Apsny is the self-name of Abkhazia. Translated as "Country of the Soul". I love this paradise!


Answer from Larina[active]

ABKHAZIA
(Abkh. Apsny) - “fir country”
Author of the above article:
Wegener L.V. Published in the guidebook "Arkhyz. Bolshaya Laba"


Answer from Natalia Zakharova[newbie]
This is the first time I’ve heard about the “fir country”. But “country of the soul” is a more accurate translation. And before, the Abkhazians called themselves Apsny. Truly a country of sun, sea and love! My favorite place for a summer vacation! And the people there are really hospitable.

Abkhazia is one of the few countries that can boast of an ancient history of winemaking. This is a distinctive territory with a unique culture, where many thousands of years ago the first grape-based alcoholic drinks were produced. One of the varieties that was born centuries ago, but is still popular to this day, is Apsny wine.

This alcoholic drink is produced at the legendary Wines and Waters of Abkhazia plant, located in the city of Sukhum. For more than 80 years, the company has been producing world-famous wines. The current appearance of the plant is a high-tech production with modern equipment, where 17 types of alcohol come off the assembly line. However, the experience of previous generations is still used in the production of wines in order to preserve the traditional and refined taste of the products.

The name Apsny translated from Abkhazian means “land of the soul.” It is believed that this wine reveals all the richness of the wide Abkhaz feast. The people, renowned for their hospitality, invite guests to try Apsny in order to better understand the unique culture of their country.

Main characteristics

Manufacturer: Wines and Waters of Abkhazia LLC, Sukhum.

Made from three grape varieties: Cabernet, Merlot, Saperavi. The berries are collected, according to production regulations, at the end of October.

Red semi-sweet wine. It has a deep ruby ​​color.

The aroma is rich, fruity, with pronounced notes of sweetness.

Strength 10%.

Bottle volume 750 ml.

Amount of sugar: 18–45 grams.

Water for wine production is extracted from 16 artesian wells owned by the plant.

The Apsny variety has a large number of international awards, the latest of which is the gold medal at the Russian Prodexpo exhibition.

Organoleptic properties

The grapes for the production of the drink are harvested at the end of October - the period when they reach their highest sugar content. This composition determines the taste of the drink - soft, velvety, with a pleasant aftertaste.

Apsny is easy to drink, leaving after each sip a taste of fruit and a trail of fruity aroma. Berry notes combined with barely noticeable sourness make the taste of the wine noble and harmonious.

Apsny will be an excellent aperitif before eating hot meat dishes. It also goes well with fruits, cheese slices, and fresh pastries.

This Abkhazian wine should not be consumed with sweet desserts: cakes, pastries. Excessive sugar content in food and drink can spoil the overall dining experience.

“Wines and Waters of Abkhazia” is a plant that began operations in 1930. From the first years of production, the Apsny brand became one of those that was loved by consumers and earned recognition and respect.

During the war between Abkhazia and Georgia, the plant and the adjacent vineyards were almost completely destroyed. Thanks to investments from local businessmen, the enterprise was reconstructed and equipped with modern equipment.

To date, the scale of production at the Wine and Water of Abkhazia plant allows us to consider it the largest producer in its segment.

On the Russian market, Abkhazia is among the top five in terms of the quantity of alcohol supplied. At the end of 2015, about 20 million bottles of wine were exported to Russia, including the popular semi-sweet red variety Apsny.

The Apsny label depicts a man, whose prototype was a figurine found during excavations on the territory of Abkhazia. It symbolizes the ancient history of winemaking, spanning more than four thousand years.

Signs of an original drink

The latest technology allows us to produce not only high-quality drinks, but also containers that are protected from counterfeiting. There are several features that you should pay attention to when purchasing.

  • Apsny wine bottles are made from especially durable Czech glass. There should be no chips or unevenness on the packaging - these are signs of a non-original drink.
  • The second important point when choosing wine is the cork. A quality product is dense and does not crumble. Around the circumference of the cork there is a logo of the plant - a horn and a bunch of grapes, as well as the inscription: “Wines & Beverages of Abkhazia”.
  • No foreign impurities, strong alcohol odor, or excessive sediment.
  • All wines from the Sukhumi plant have the same laconic label design. The name of the drink is printed on a white background and there is an image of a man with a wine horn.
  • The production date is indicated on the bottle label.
  • The label and tax stamp are carefully glued to the bottle. There should be no visible defects - bruises, stains.
  • Price. High-quality wine cannot have a low price; this is a sure sign of a fake.

The original taste of wine will not leave anyone indifferent who appreciates original drinks. The multifaceted culture of Abkhazia is reflected in the exquisite bouquet of Apsny.

They say that when God distributed the lands to the nations, a resident of this country could not come for the allotment because he was receiving guests in his house. And then God gave him the corner that he had left for himself. This was the reward for hospitality. And it is in these lands that God rests.
Abkhazia lives like a paradise in our memory. Perhaps because of the proximity to two endless elements - the sea and the mountains - every news heard here seems oceanic. Apsny in Abkhazian means “land of the soul.” There are many miracles here: the tomb of one of Christ’s disciples, a hot spring that gives youth, stalactites twisted into rings... A miracle exists here as an everyday occurrence, as if it happened just yesterday, and your neighbors witnessed it
Abkhazia is silent. The whole world is raging, but she is silent. There are earthquakes, rainfalls, floods everywhere, but on this earth the sun shines and nothing happens. Probably because everything here has already been experienced for a long time. The entrance to heaven is thinner than the eye of a needle. We know this from the Gospel.
However, now, in addition to its width, we also know its length. Three hundred meters. From my own experience. This entrance is located on the border of Russia and Abkhazia, at the border checkpoint with the mysterious name Psou. A slow stream of vehicles moves at a speed of about one hundred meters per hour on both sides of the checkpoint. A little more time to check the documents - and now we are breaking out onto the Novorossiysk - Sukhumi highway. The villages of Gyachrypsh and Tsandrypsh fly past the windows of the bus.
And what an amazing color the Abkhazian sea has! Rich blue. Water in a state of absolute rest plays in the sun. They also say that there is no such green color as in Abkhazia anywhere in the world. And, truly, one cannot but agree with this, looking at the lush greenery boiling on both sides of the road.
The first stop is the city of Gagra. Famous from the films “Winter Evening in Gagra” and “The Diamond Arm”, it is located on the shore of a calm bay, on a narrow terrace, sandwiched between the sea and mountain ranges, in the narrowest place of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus. The city is surrounded by groves of the famous Pitsunda long-leaf pine - a very rare relict tree.
The city on the site of Gagra was founded in the 2nd century BC by Greek merchants under the name Triglyph. The long chain of names of the city testifies to its sad history: after Triglyph it bore the Roman name Nitika, then the Byzantine Trachea, later Kakara and Hackers, the Venetian Contesi (“harbour”) and Kakura, the Persian Derbent (“iron gate”) and the Turkish Badalag (“ high mountain"). The modern name of Gagra, according to some researchers, comes from the name of the ancient Abkhazian family Gagaa, who lived in these places.
Gagra is the warmest place in the Caucasus Black Sea region. Winter here is mild, with an average temperature of about seven degrees above zero. The average annual temperature reaches plus fifteen degrees. The swimming season lasts from May to October. In summer the sea warms up to plus twenty-eight degrees, the sun shines here 2500 hours a year! Nowhere in the former USSR are the snow-capped peaks as close to the sea as in Gagra. Here the warmth of the coast and the coolness of the mountains are inseparable. Hence the unique microclimate. And the air, filled with the sea, the sun, and the aromas of the subtropics, is in itself capable of defeating illnesses and prolonging life.
Modern Gagra is a wonderful resort, famous for its picturesque embankments and parks, surrounded by greenery of flowers, palm trees and cypress trees. The area of ​​Old Gagra is especially beautiful, where from the seashore there is a fabulous view of the mountains, gorges and bay. A delightful feature of Gagra is that here the mountains come closest to the coast, fringing the beaches with their bright vegetation. The sea water here is crystal clear and transparent.
And also - right here, in Gagra, there is a unique building of the hotel and restaurant "Gagrypsh", which a hundred years ago was delivered disassembled from Norway and Austria, and then erected without a single nail.
We leave the friendly southern city and head further along the highway. The resort town of Pitsunda, located on the cape of the same name, awaits us. Having crossed the Bzyb River over the bridge, we turn off the highway towards the sea. Along the way, on the left side of us, a picturesque lake appears. This is Lake Inkit.
There are many legends and traditions associated with Lake Inkit. Thus, according to some sources, when Lake Inkit served as the inner harbor of the ancient city of Pityus, in the 4th century. BC e., the ships of the great ancient commander Alexander the Great stood here. Port buildings and tower fortifications were built on the banks of the Inkit. Archaeologists of the Black Sea archaeological expedition on the shores of Inkit discovered a number of interesting antique objects and the foundations of ancient buildings. According to the existing legend, where Lake Inkit is now located, there was an ancient temple, but as a result of the lowering of the banks of Inkit, the temple found itself under the surface of the water.
Here you can fish in the calm lake water; in the reeds and thickets surrounding the lake, the hunter will find game. Various species of ducks, gray and yellow herons, marsh hens and many other representatives of the feathered world nest on the shores of the lake.
The lake is left behind, and we enter the territory of another unique resort - Pitsunda. It is difficult to describe in words all the charm of this delightful corner of Abkhazia with a unique microclimate. Anyone who has vacationed at least once in Pitsunda will certainly say that there is no better place to relax. Beautiful sandy beaches, framed by the famous Pitsunda pine, and an unusually gentle sea make this place unique.
Sea water at Cape Pitsunda and in the Ldzaa (Lidzava) area is the cleanest and most transparent in the entire Black Sea. Even in the summer heat, sea breezes and shady pine and cypress alleys keep Pitsunda amazingly cool. The resort's boarding houses, surrounded by greenery, are lined up along the edge of the famous protected pine grove.
Pitsunda pine is a rare specimen of the Pontic flora of the Tertiary period. This tree grows only on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus. The age of individual trees reaches 200 years. Near the pine tree there is a boxwood grove; some trees reach 12 meters in height. It is to its healing properties that Pitsunda owes its phenomenal popularity. The area of ​​the pine grove is more than 200 hectares, there are about 27 thousand trees. And nearby is another rare oasis of flora - a boxwood grove.
Pitsunda owes its name to pine: in Greek pine is “pitius”.
The city was founded long before our era by ancient Greek colonialists. In the 1st century BC they were ousted by the Romans, and later the northern Black Sea tribes - the Goths and Monitor Lizards - ruled here. There were also Genoese and Turks. In 1830, Pitsunda was occupied by Russian troops, and in 1882 the tsarist government transferred the entire territory to the New Athos Monastery for the construction of a courtyard. Archaeological excavations have confirmed the high material culture of ancient Pitiunta. Evidence of this is the found remains of a sewerage system, a water supply system, a bathhouse, and a mosaic floor. The temple of the 10th-11th centuries is well preserved. In 1975, after a major renovation, an organ was installed in it. Organ concerts attract a lot of listeners.
We are given an hour to do everything - walk, swim, take pictures. And again on the road. New Athos awaits us. But more on that later. Now we are passing several equally interesting places. These are the villages of Otkhara, Lykhny and the city of Gudauta.
The village of Othara is located at the foot of the Bzyb Mountains on the left bank of the Mchyshta River (Black River). The Mchyshta River is the largest karst spring in the Caucasus - a cave river comes to the surface. The purest ice water flows over white boulders among impenetrable thickets of boxwood and other subtropical vegetation. Overhanging the village and the river is a picturesque steep cliff, in which, at an altitude of 50 m, there is the Mchyshtinsky cave complex - numerous cells of a medieval monastery. The cells are located in several tiers, and it is impossible to get into them without special climbing equipment. This village is also famous for the oldest trout farm in the former USSR, founded back in 1934.
Lykhny is the largest village of the republic, the ancient capital of the Abkhaz principality. It is located 5 km north of Gudauta. Nowadays, the main architectural and historical value of the village is the famous functioning Church of the Dormition of the Mother of God (10th century), which has been preserved in its original form. It's not difficult to find. In the center of the village there is a vast clearing - Lykhnashta, or Lykhnenskaya Square - where in the past horse racing was held, harvest day was celebrated, and meetings and rallies were held in turbulent times.
On the northern edge of the square there is the Church of the Dormition of the Mother of God with a low stone fence (equally ancient) and a two-tier bell tower. In the cathedral you can see frescoes from the 14th century and unusual icons; The last ruling prince of Abkhazia, Georgy Chachba-Shervashidze, under whom the country became part of Russia, is buried under the temple's cover. The cathedral was closed in 1945-55, then the stables of the local equestrian club were located inside.
Next to the Lykhny Temple, near the bank of the Adzlagara River, are the grass-overgrown ruins of the palace of the ruling princes of Abkhazia, Chachba-Shervashidze (XI-XIX centuries). On one of the walls you can see a barely noticeable six-pointed star, laid out in the masonry between the windows. On the opposite side of the clearing from the palace is a recently restored 19th-century chapel. In Soviet times, a huge building of the Lykhny House of Culture was built next to the Chachba Palace, now it is a half-abandoned building of the village administration.
The resort town of Gudauta is named so, according to an ancient legend, in honor of two lovers - a young man named Guda and a girl named Uta. The story is worthy of Shakespeare's pen. The families of these young people, divided by blood feud, did not allow them to unite. And then the lovers, in despair, threw themselves into the river and died.
The history of the city goes back several thousand years. On the territory and in the vicinity of Gudauta there are archaeological sites of the Neolithic, Bronze Age, and Early Iron Age. In the 1st millennium AD, the Abazgs (ancestors of modern Abkhazians) settled here; in the 13th-14th centuries, Italian merchants founded a trading post here, calling it Cavo de Buxa (Palm Harbor).
The attractions of Gudauta include: the Museum of the Patriotic War of the People of Abkhazia, beautiful parks and squares, wonderful small-pebble beaches. Due to its special geographical location on a wide coastal plain, this resort has a favorable microclimate. They say that a holiday here is much cheaper than in Abkhazia as a whole.
New Athos is located 22 kilometers from Sukhum in the gorge of the Psyrtskha River. It is known for its unique microclimate, abundance of evergreen vegetation, clean sea air, and history going back centuries.
People have long been attracted to this exceptionally picturesque place, rich in abundant springs, inaccessible peaks and building materials. Therefore, so many traces of human activity have been preserved here that an inquisitive traveler can easily trace the history of Abkhaz architecture for almost two thousand years.
New Athos is the oldest center of Christianity in Abkhazia. About a hundred years ago, in this picturesque bay, monks from the famous Greek Athos founded the Simon-Kananitsky monastery, a similar one. It is located at an altitude of 75 meters above sea level at the foot of Mount Athos.
A narrow asphalt strip of highway in the thick shade of cypress trees leads to the main gate of the monastery. Powerful walls with endless rows of windows, above which rise the blue domes of the monastery churches, a wide road lined with multi-colored tiles leading under the high arch of the gate, the light brown outline of the bulk of St. Panteleimon's Cathedral, the lace of foliage of the trees, the blue of the sky, the gray “carpet” of the stone pavement of the courtyard - these are the first impressions of the visitor, which remain in the memory for a long time.
The New Athos Monastery was founded in 1875 by monks from Old Athos (Athos - in Greek “quiet, deserted”) - a monastery located in Greece. In 1888, Tsar Alexander III visited New Athos. A chapel was built where the abbot of the monastery met the king, and it can still be seen opposite the pier. The path along which the king walked from the pier to the monastery was lined with cypress trees by the monks and called the “Tsar’s Alley.” The cathedral is the largest religious building in Abkhazia. It can accommodate more than three thousand people at the same time.
One of the most amazing miracles that the nature of Abkhazia is so generous with is the New Athos Cave, known today throughout the world. A magical world opens up to everyone who visits this miracle of nature. In the underground kingdom of stalactites and stalagmites, like precious stones in a frame, halls and galleries stretched out in a chain.
For millions of years it hid its secrets in the depths of the Iverskaya Mountain and was discovered quite recently, in 1961, by a local resident, the young man Givi Smyr. Now one of the cave halls bears his name. And in 1975, the first “cave metro” train carrying tourists passed through an artificial tunnel leading to the cave.
The New Athos Cave is a colossal karst cavity, its size rivals the most famous dungeons in the world, including such giants as the Škocianska Cave and the Carlsbad Cave. Even the wildest imagination cannot suggest to the imagination what secrets are hidden in the depths of the Iverskaya Mountain, what miracles await underground. The extraordinary cave landscape is striking in its beauty: from the wild chaos of the gloomy lower halls to the magnificent stalactite palaces sparkling with white. Here you can see the mysterious green eyes of “living” cave lakes, be enchanted by the unique harmony of sounds in “musical” grottoes and the endless beauty and variety of unique crystal formations.
We leave the cool cave and plunge back into the hot August day. We continue our journey, discovering amazing, unique and inimitable places of extraordinary beauty. Forward to the high mountain lake Ritsa.
The road to Ritsa departs from the Black Sea Highway, at the bridge over the Bzyb River. And then it goes, meandering between the rocks, along the gorges of the Bzyb River, its tributary Gega and the Yupshara flowing into it, which flows from Ritsa itself.
At the 16th kilometer – Blue Lake. In the summer heat, this is a real oasis for a tired tourist, where you can relieve all fatigue by taking a sip of cool, tasty water from the stream flowing into the lake. They say it rejuvenates and prolongs life. The lake is of karst origin, its area is about 180 square meters, its depth is up to 76 meters. The water in the lake is blue, this is explained by the fact that the bottom is covered with lapis lazuli deposits, and the water is transparent.
Further the highway winds through the gorge. The higher we rise, the more impressions we get. Sometimes you want to stop right here, on the banks of a white-foamed river, on a green lawn. But even more wonderful places lie ahead.
If we turn off the highway and climb a rocky, steep road along the Gega River, then after 5-6 kilometers the famous Geg waterfall will appear in front of us. And if you go further, the Circassian glade will open, famous for its giant fir trees.
The Yupshar Gorge is unique. Its length is eight kilometers. The path becomes steeper and steeper. The mountains seemed to close together. Only a narrow strip of sky is visible. Greenish-red ribbons of moss hang from the tall, sheer eaves. This is the Yupshar Canyon - the most picturesque section of the gorge.
Now the gorge ends, the bus breaks out into the sun-drenched expanse. The road rises higher and higher. Turn, turn again.
And here it is, a miracle lake, the fabulous Ritsa, surrounded by giant mountains covered with dense forests. From the west and southwest, Ritsu is guarded by the city of Pshegishkha, from the north by the cities of Atsetuka and Agepsta, and from the east by the spurs of the Rykhva ridge. The height of the mountains is from 2200 to 3500 meters. The lake is located at an altitude of 950 meters above sea level.
Scientists believe that the lake was formed as a result of a mountain collapse that blocked the bed of the Lashipse River. This is how nature created this wondrous wonder. The lake spreads over an area of ​​132 hectares, its greatest depth is 115 meters.
In Abkhazia there are a lot of poetic legends, tales and epics about this or that place or event. All of them are unusually lyrical. There is such a legend about Lake Ritsa.
Once upon a time there was a valley in this place and a river flowed through it. In the fabulous pastures along its banks, a beautiful girl named Ritsa, the only sister of three brothers - Agepsta, Atsetuki and Pshegishkha, tended her flock. During the day the brothers hunted and in the evenings they gathered around the fireplace. Ritsa was preparing dinner, the brothers sang, admiring her. One day the brothers went hunting in the distant mountains. A day passed, then two, they still did not return. Ritsa, missing them, kept looking at the road and sang in her enchanting voice.
Two forest robbers Gega and Yupshara heard her voice. Seeing the beauty, they decided to kidnap her. Yupshara grabbed her and galloped along the valley on his horse. Gega covered him. The brothers heard the cries for help. They rushed after him. Pshegishkha threw a heroic sword at the robbers, but missed. The sword fell and blocked the river. Water quickly began to flood the valley and in an instant turned it into a lake. The help that arrived in time inspired Ritsa, and with the last of her strength she escaped from the tenacious hands of the robbers, but, unable to stay on her feet, fell into the seething lake. No matter how hard the brothers tried, they could not save their sister. Ritsa remained under water. Then Pshegishkha grabbed Yupshara and threw him into the lake. But the waters of the Ritsa did not accept the scoundrel and threw him through Pshegishkha’s sword and carried him into the sea. Gega ran after him, but he could not save his friend. Then he joined him.
From terrible grief the brothers turned to stone and turned into high mountains. They still stand above the lake, protecting the peace of the unforgettable Ritsa.
Having admired the unforgettable landscapes and breathed in the purest mountain air, we return back to Russia. Tired but happy. There is a border ahead, where we will again lose two to three hours of time.
And again Adler with its mini-hotels, Khosta, Sochi with a frantic rhythm and a complete lack of sleepiness, despite the midnight. Expensive restaurants and helpful waiters. Nevertheless, there is a strange feeling that it is better there - in Abkhazia, the sea is cleaner, the fruits are tastier, and the people are friendlier...
In fact, everyone is free to choose their own vacation - whatever they like. Abkhazia in Abkhazian is Apsny, which means “country of the soul”. When you come to Abkhazia for the first time, you acutely feel that the creation of the world has just completed here, and the Lord has not yet managed to go far. Here all the time there is an invisible darning of human souls, into which threads of temptation and high revelation are woven.
And the sea disappears in the evening, burned by the sun. The sea “ashes” are quickly filled with twilight, and I will tell you that it is from that darkness that our most vivid dreams are born.

Apsny is the country of the soul.
Apsny is the country of the soul.

The word “Apsny” translated from Abkhazian into Russian means “Country of the Soul”. This is what many often call Abkhazia - a land with an ancient culture, history and difficult fate, which has not, however, lost its charm, magically attracting tourists from different parts of, if not the whole world, then certainly the entire former USSR. Gagra, Pitsunda, Sukhum... Whatever you say, most people still associate these names not with military operations, but with the sea, the sun, luxurious nature, hospitable people and amazingly tasty Caucasian food. The latter will be the main topic of this text. It’s not called “gourmet travel notes” for nothing.

A few words about Abkhaz cuisine

Yes, yes, just a few. I want to warn you right away that this text is not a scientific study of the nutritional habits of citizens living between the Psou rivers in the north and the Ingur rivers in the south. These are simply culinary impressions brought from vacation and carefully preserved especially for “Culinary Eden”. So don’t expect a story here only about national Abkhaz food. Let's look at things more broadly - after all, there are so many delicious things in the Caucasus!

However, let's start with the owners, paying tribute to them. What is Abkhazian cuisine? In principle, it is not rich, these are not Russian or Ukrainian pickles. This means that the number of dishes of Abkhazian cuisine is not large (it’s good if there are 50). That is why many believe that Abkhazian cuisine does not exist at all and everything that is eaten in the Caucasus can be called Caucasian cuisine. Of course, neighboring peoples borrowing recipes for various dishes from each other is an inevitable process. But still, you must agree, it would be strange if a country with such a rich history (alas, we won’t remember it here, otherwise the text would take up half the site) did not have its own culinary traditions at all. Naturally, this is not so.

The cuisine of Abkhazia, in fact, is divided into two “sections”: flour and everything else that is eaten with flour. These “sections” have their own names: “agukha” and “atsyfa”, respectively. But the residents of Abkhazia themselves rarely use them in their ordinary speech. Perhaps in remote mountain villages, but there are not many of them left in modern Abkhazia. Many chose to go down from the mountains to the sea, where they could earn more and generally live more comfortably. Here it is also worth considering the fact that it is Abkhazians who currently live in Abkhazia, 20 percent of the total population. The country of the soul is multinational.

Traditionally, Abkhazians eat a lot of plant foods. This is not surprising, because the land on which they live is fertile and fertile. Beans, corn, and walnuts, rich in minerals and vitamins, are frequent guests on the Abkhazian table. By the way, not only walnuts are loved in Abkhazia - the house near Pitsunda, which we rented for the holidays, was located in hazelnut thickets. You wake up in the morning, go out onto the veranda, pick a few young nuts - and here it is, the first breakfast of the new day.

In Abkhazia, of course, they also eat meat. However, in smaller volumes than in other regions of the North Caucasus. They are very fond of dairy and fermented milk products. Of course, alcohol is not forgotten either. Most people in Abkhazia drink chacha (strong grape moonshine, a kind of analogue of grappa) and wine.

Apatskhi

In Abkhazia, you shouldn’t dine just anywhere. No, of course, you are free to go anywhere - there are countless cafes and restaurants here, as in any resort region. But if you want to try local cuisine, prepared more or less traditionally, you should go straight to Apatsha.

Initially, apatskha was just a kitchen in the courtyard of an Abkhaz house. Outwardly, it looks like a wicker hut. Actually, this is a structure woven from rhododendron twigs. Inside the apatskhi there was a hearth, and above it there were at least two pots. One is for preparing mamaliga, and the other is for lobio (nowadays the Abkhazians mainly call this dish simply “beans”, so as not to use the Georgian name; the authentic “akud” is less often used). In addition, meat was usually smoked over the hearth.

Today, Apatskha is a cafe decorated in the national style (animal skins, horns, bunches of red pepper, garlic...) where they serve dishes of Abkhazian and generally Caucasian cuisine. However, skins and antlers are more of an element of decor for the Apats, designed for tourists. Those that are intended more for the local population have more modest decoration, and they are, as a rule, not located on tourist streets. In such small "for their own" apatsks, prices are usually lower and the food is tastier. After all, whatever one may say, a tourist will eat once or twice and leave, you never know what he liked there, and what he didn’t like, another tourist will come to take his place. The neighbor, if you feed him poorly, will not come again and will discourage others.

In general, if you want to feel the atmosphere of a typical Abkhaz meal, look for “non-elite” apatskhi. For example, there are them on the route from the Psou River (border with Russia) to Sukhum (the capital of the country) and further south, in Sukhum itself, or in any Abkhaz city or small village - ask the local residents. Of course, not all dishes, even in the Apatskhas, are now prepared over an open fire and in full accordance with the traditions of their ancestors: after all, there are gas and electric stoves, and other kitchen appliances (Abkhazia is no stranger to progress!). But all the same, you can be fed tastier than in Apatskhe, perhaps, only at your home table if you visit a local family. Anyway, enough talk, let's eat something already!

Hominy

The main flour dish in Abkhazia is, of course, mamalyga. The local name is “Abysta”. Actually, this is not only the Abkhaz national dish. Mingrelians, Moldovans, Romanians prepare it... Abkhazians also cook it. Hominy is made from corn flour (previously, quite a long time ago, it was also cooked from millet, but gradually corn “won”). You can also add corn grits. Actually, mamalyga is the same as bread for the local population. Although “ordinary” bread in our understanding (“brick”) is also eaten in Abkhazia. Plus, of course, lavash.

I made a special stop at one of the apatshas on the highway between Gagra and New Athos. It was recommended to me by a friend from Sochi, who had traveled the length and breadth of Abkhazia in his car. Apatsha may not have a name at all. Just apatsha and that’s it: “kebab, solyanka, khachapur, mamalyga,” says a small sign by the road. Great! I walk in and see Abkhaz policemen having lunch. Well, that means I ended up where I wanted - the locals certainly know where the food is delicious.

I order mamalyga (45 rubles*). You don't have to wait long - about 10 minutes, although the cooking time for hominy "from scratch" is certainly no less than 40 minutes. Later it turned out that in the Apatskhas, as a rule, hominy is prepared in the morning, or when it’s finished, and they cook a lot, and then during the day it hangs in a cauldron over a small fire and simmers, “bubbling” in anticipation of the eaters. It happens, of course, that it doesn’t hang - it’s cooked on the stove.

So, they bring me a plate with a light “mound” on which rest two pieces of suluguni cheese. Using a spoon, I carry a little of this thick porridge into my mouth. To be honest, at first I didn’t like it - it was too bland. However, if you eat mamaliga with cheese, which is put on top for a reason, everything changes. Salty suluguni greatly complements this “corn porridge”.

The recipe for mamalyga is simple; the mother of the owner from whom we rented a house in the hazel grove told me about it - an 85-year-old woman who was born and lived all her life in Abkhazia - an Armenian named Arusyak. You will need: finely ground corn flour (450-500 grams for two large servings), water (4-5 glasses for 2-3 servings), salt and suluguni cheese (400-500 g, - “you can’t spoil hominy with cheese”) . Sift the flour and pour about half of it into a saucepan with a thick bottom, or maybe into a cast-iron pot (if you want to cook over a fire), where there is already lightly salted hot, but not boiling, water. Be sure to stir so that there are no lumps. Cook it all until you get a mushy mass. Afterwards, add the remaining flour. Don’t forget to keep stirring - there is a special wooden spatula (“amkhabysta”) for this purpose. Of course, if you don’t have an amkhabyst, any one will do. Already thickened hominy should not stick to the walls of the pan. When the porridge can be formed into a “mound” (like the one in the photo), remove the pan from the heat. Let it cool a little (just a little), put it on a plate or on a wooden stand, and stick two or three pieces of cheese on top.

In principle, thick hominy (and it can be prepared in different ways) is eaten with hands; it often happens that it is even cut into pieces with a knife. If you have mamalyga in the most authentic way, which is called “Caucasian style,” then you should also order lobio (let me still call it that) along with it. Many local residents make unique little scoops from hominy, scoop the lobio with them and put it all in their mouths. Mamaliga is also served with tkemali sauce (locally called “asadzbal”), fried or smoked and fried meat. Details about the latter are below.

Smoked meat

As mentioned above, the Abkhazians traditionally smoked meat over a fireplace in Apatskhe. So it was and so it is. In modern Apatsk cafes there is also a fireplace, and meat is also hung above it. Most often it is beef. In general, cows in Abkhazia seem to be the same sacred animals as in India. They are everywhere here: they climb mountains, go out to the sea, sometimes frightening vacationers, at the most unexpected moment they can appear on the highway and lie down right on the dividing strip...

But we digress. Before smoking, the meat is rubbed with salt and spices, allowed to sit for a while and soak. I was told about this already in another apatsha, in New Athos. I admit, it was not that far from tourists (I noticed skins and antlers), but still made a pleasant impression on me. This apatskha even had a name (which, however, occurs quite often) - “Abkhazian courtyard.”

So, the meat hangs over the fire and is smoked. How long exactly does this process take? Actually, there is no specific deadline. It all depends on taste preferences: some people like slightly smoked meat, others like it with a strong smoked taste. But still, usually it is no more than 8-10 days. After the meat has reached “condition”, it is cut into small pieces (so that it can be immediately put into the mouth) and fried a little in a frying pan. If the frying pan is made of clay, it is served in it, and if it is fried in a regular frying pan, it is transferred to a plate. A serving is 150 grams. This pleasure will cost 70 rubles (now imagine how much they would charge you in a Moscow restaurant). Along with smoked-fried meat (“akuap”), it’s good to order a hot and sour sauce made from cherry plum, herbs, and spices - the very same asadzbal. Naturally, this meat is also eaten with hominy. It is better to drink it with dry red wine. But you can also use chacha, of course. Or tangerine “juice” - it is sold everywhere in Abkhazia (40-50 rubles per bottle with a capacity of 0.5-0.6 liters) but, of course, it is not juice as such, rather a juice-containing drink with pulp.

Actually, it is meat prepared in this way (smoked and fried) that can be called an everyday Abkhaz meat dish. As already mentioned, it is usually beef. They also cook pork, but it is more for tourists. A truly royal treat that you won’t find everywhere is smoked game. Birds are also smoked in Abkhazia: chickens, turkeys, quails, pheasants. Of course, Abkhazians eat not only smoked, but also boiled meat; they love spit-roasted chicken rubbed with adjika.

There is a common misconception: supposedly in the Caucasus the only meat is kebab. Unfortunately (or fortunately) this is not the case. Shish kebab, of course, is prepared in Abkhazia in almost every cafe, but this offer is born thanks to demand from visitors.

Khachapur

In the past - khachapuri. The letter “i” is “Georgian”, just like in the name of the country’s capital - Sukhum(i). Therefore, she was given resignation. Khachapur is another flour dish, without which it is difficult to imagine Abkhaz cuisine. In principle, there is another name for it, local - “achashv”.

It is believed that real Abkhazian khachapur is a closed pie (flatbread, if you like) made of thin unleavened dough with salty cheese as a filling. Everything is very simple and yet surprisingly tasty. So even the expression “finger lickin’ good” doesn’t quite fit here. You'll probably bite off your fingers. Khachapur is served hot, which is called “hot, hot”. So the one who is about to taste it has a few more minutes to admire it and inhale its alluring and appetite-stimulating aroma, while waiting for the khachapur to cool down a little.

Khachapur is now prepared in an electric oven, approximately the same as in a regular pizzeria for preparing pizza. So you shouldn’t look for some authentic national oven in a place where khachapur is served. Khachapur usually costs 150 rubles. On our last visit to Abkhazia, we, as they say, “went crazy” - we ordered three khachapurs for three and... And we almost went crazy when we saw how much we had to eat. Remember - khachapur is big, they will bring it to you cut into pieces (the same way they cut pizza). One khachapur is enough for two or three eaters. This is if besides him there is nothing else at this moment. So be careful!

Another type of khachapur that you should definitely try in Abkhazia is “boat”. Some “experts” mistakenly believe that this is the real Abkhaz khachapur. But that's not true. Even the Abkhazians themselves say that their dish is “closed” khachapur (which was discussed above). The boat is Adjarian-style khachapur. It differs in that the cheese is placed in the middle of the khachapur and is not covered with dough on top (by the way, for the “boat”, unlike the first option, it is prepared with the addition of yeast). You will be served an oval flatbread filled with melted cheese in the middle. There must be an egg on the cheese (essentially a fried egg). Can you imagine how tasty it is and, most importantly, satisfying? You should not eat Adjarian khachapur with a spoon or fork: break off the edge of the flatbread with your hand, dip it into the hot center (mixing cheese with egg) and put it in your mouth. Heavenly pleasure, and for only 100 rubles. In principle, such khachpur, with a glass of wine, beer, a glass of juice or milk, can easily replace a full lunch. You will leave the table with a feeling of deep satisfaction.

We'll probably stop here. Culinary ecstasy is a good thing. However, it’s even better when you don’t pounce on all the dishes at once, but savor each one without rushing. In the second part of this impromptu culinary journey through Abkhazia, we will taste chanakh and chakhokhbili, drink chacha, and indulge in local beer and wine. In addition, we will not ignore seafood. Itabup, abziaras (“Thank you, goodbye” - abkh.)!

* - all prices are indicated for August 2009

Daniil Golovin, Dmitry Egorov