Light sea knots. Ten ways to tie very reliable knots video review. How to tie a sea knot
I came across Safronenko's brochure "Learning to knit knots." It may be useful for others to read this material.
For orientation in the description of the nodes used, in accordance with Fig. 1, the following terms: root end - the end of the cable, fixed or used when knitting a knot; opposite to the running end; running end - loose free end of the cable, which begins to move when knitting a knot; loop (open) - the running (or root) end of the cable, bent twice in such a way that it does not intersect with itself; kalyshka (closed loop) - a loop made by the running or root end of the cable so that the cable crosses with itself; semi-knot - a single overlap of two different ends of the same cable or two ends of different cables; run-out - a cable around an object (a log, a pole, another cable, a ring, etc.), made in such a way that both ends of the cable do not cross; hose - a full turn (360 °) of the rope around an object, made in such a way that after that the end of the cable is directed in the opposite direction; half-bayonet - carrying an object with a cable, followed by crossing its end with a cable at a right angle, without passing it into the formed closed loop.
KNOT FOR THICKENING THE CABLE "Simple knot" (Fig. 1). This is the simplest of all known knots. To tie it, you need to make a half-knot behind its root end with the running end of the cable. It can be tied at the end or at the middle of the rope. To do this, the running end of the cable is once encircled around its root part and passed into the loop formed. Depending on how it is tied, a simple knot can be left (Fig. 2, a) or right (Fig. 2, b). . It is not only the simplest of all knots, but also the smallest in size. When the cable is pulled, it is so tightly tightened that it is sometimes very difficult to untie it. One more negative feature for plant cables should be taken into account - this knot, like no other, spoils the cable, as it bends it strongly and weakens its strength by about half. A simple knot is used to tie a thread at the end so that it does not slip out of the fabric, to prevent the rope from unwinding, and also as an additional knot; for example, at the ends of a sheet tied together, serving as a rope in a fire. A simple knot, despite its primitiveness and the property of being strongly tightened, is an integral element of many useful knots. "Eight" (Fig. 2-2). This knot is considered a classic - it forms the basis of many other, more complex knots for various purposes. It can serve as an excellent stopper at the end of a thread, rope, cable. Even with strong traction, unlike a simple knot, it does not spoil the cable, and it can always be easily untied. In everyday life, the "eight" is widely used. It is very useful for securing a cable through a hole in an object, such as the wooden handle of an outboard motor rope starter. With two "eights" you can securely attach the rope to the children's sled. To prevent the hand from slipping off the end of the dog leash, you can use the "eight". It also serves well for attaching strings to the tuning pegs of violins, guitars, mandolins, balalaikas and other musical instruments. "Stevedoring knot" (Fig. 2-3). Like the "eight", this node is a stopper for cables passing through the hole. He knits, like the "eight", but with the only difference that the running end is inserted into the loop after it is surrounded around the root end of the cable twice. When tightening this knot, make sure that the hoses at the root end do not twist and slip into the loop. A tightened stevedoring knot is easier to untie if you pull on the loop that is closer to the root end. "Oyster knot" (Fig. 2-4). Due to its symmetry, this knot is successfully used by musicians to fasten the strings on the pegs of the violin, mandolin and other musical instruments. In terms of size, the tightened oyster knot is much larger than the "eight", and therefore it is used in cases where the holes on the pegs for some reason are larger than necessary for a particular string. This knot has one feature of tying: it is tightened in two steps. First tie a running knot (see Figure 8-52 below) and tighten it. After passing the running end of the cable into the loop, tighten the knot again. If the oyster knot is tightened in one step, then it will not form correctly. On fig. 2c shows a diagram of the oyster knot, indicating its symmetry. In this form, it can serve as a good decorative knot-ornament. "Ufer node" (Fig. 2-5). This ancient marine knot can be tied in two ways. The first method (Fig. 2-5, a) is based on a simple knot and involves inserting the running end into the loop from below between the root and running ends, followed by passing it under itself. The second knitting method (Fig. 2-5, b) involves tying a figure eight and pulling both ends into its corresponding loops. The peculiarity of the knot is that it is relatively easy to untie it even if it is strongly tightened. "Multiple figure eight" (Fig. 2-6). If there is a need to temporarily shorten the cable or exclude an unreliable part of its length from work (in case of fear that it will break), it is best to use the “multiple eight”, which can also serve as a convenient handle for both large and small object (cardboard box, bale, old suitcase). If you impose a "multiple figure eight" in the middle of the rope of a children's sled, then you get a very good handle, and it is better to fasten the free ends of the rope to the sled with a simple "eight". "Multiple eight" - a convenient handle at the end of a dog leash. To make the knot even and tight, as you tie each full turn, tighten it with movement to the previous one. If you later need to use the entire length of the cable, the “multiple eight” is easy to untie. No matter how hard it is tightened, it will not damage the cable. The "fire escape" (fig. 2-7) consists of a series of simple knots that are knitted one after the other very quickly (20 knots can be tied in half a minute). It is magnificent in its simplicity and efficiency, but it requires a certain skill and clarity in execution. The knitting of this knot begins with the formation of a certain number of closed loops (pebbles) wound one after another. Take the running end of the cable in your left hand, stepping back from its edge 15-20 cm. Make the first pebble with a diameter of no more than 10 cm so that the root end of the cable is at the bottom. Then make the same ka lyshku and press the thumb of your left hand to the tips of the rest. In the same way, make 5-7 pebbles, evenly laid one on top of the other. "So that they do not move out and are not tangled, put them on the fingers (except the thumb) of the left hand extended upwards. You will get a kind of rope" glass ". Carefully remove it from your fingers so that it does not crumble or flatten. Now, pass the running end that you held in your left hand inside this "cup" and bring it out on the other side. Put the "glass" on the left palm and clasp it on all sides with five fingers.With the bent fingertips of the right hand, hold the upper edge of the "cup" and slowly, without jerking, pull the running end of the cable sticking out of the "cup" upwards.As you pull this running end on it simple knots will be tied. Their number will correspond to the number of pebbles made, and the distance between them will be the length of their circumference. Knots can be quickly tied by fastening one end of the rope to the battery, to the leg of the bed (chair), throw the other end out the window and, if necessary, go down down the rope. Such a “ladder” can help a person who has fallen overboard. It is convenient for several people to pull out a car stuck in the mud. To make it more convenient to pull, tie a “fire escape” on the ground so that the knots go about every meter.
TIGHTENING KNOTS Self-tightening knot (Figure 4-18). This primitive knot is perhaps the most original. A pull commensurate with the strength of the cable can be applied to the root of this knot, and it will hold securely. The greater the thrust, the stronger the free running end is pressed against the hose, and the knot tightens itself. But it is reliable only when it is tied around a log and a constant effort is applied to the root end. If the force is applied to the cable alternately, in jerks, then the running end may slip out from under the root end of the cable. A self-tightening knot can be used in cases where the suspended load is motionless and the direction of thrust at the root end does not change. It is convenient for them to hang bags of food on the crossbar in warehouses to save them from rodents. Having loosened the running end of the cable, the suspended bag can be lowered smoothly. "Self-tightening knot with a half-bayonet" (Fig. 4-19). By adding one or two half bayonets to a self-tightening knot, we get a more reliable knot that can be used for various needs. "Bleach knot" (Fig. 4-20). This knot consists of two half-bayonets tied in the same direction. You can tie it in two ways. The first method is used in cases where one of the ends of the object around which the knot is knitted is open and accessible (Fig. 4-20, a), the second, when the cable has to be carried directly around the object (Fig. 4-20, b) . With the help of a knotted knot, you can attach a rope to a smooth post or crossbar, tie a bag, pull a rope between two posts, tie a bowstring to a bow, moor a boat behind a pile or a stake dug on the shore, attach twine to a thick cable. It is very convenient for feeding a tool to a height (for example, a hammer). When weaving many types of fishing nets, bleached knots form the first row of knitting. However, when using a bleached knot, you should always remember that it is reliable only with constant traction on a cable or rope. "Retractable bayonet" (Fig. 4-21). This knot is more perfect and more reliable than the bleached one. It can also be used in cases where the direction of the pull of the cable is at an acute angle to the log or cable to which it is attached. The retractable bayonet holds even when the thrust is directed almost along the br? v-. ^ a. Unlike the bleached knot, the retractable bayonet has not two, but three "hose covering the object; one on one side of the root end and two on the other. When tying this knot, it is necessary to take into account in which direction the thrust behind the root will be directed end, and depending on this, knit a knot. It is easy to remember: on which side the thrust is, there are two hoses. When using a retractable bayonet, do not forget that it is reliable only under load and does not like sharp weakening. "Constrictor" (Fig. 4-22). The knot, known throughout the world by this name, which in Latin means "boa constrictor", is one of the most tightly tightened knots. At the same time, it is also considered one of the most difficult knots to untie. As a rule, it is not even untied, it serves once. The constrictor tightens well on round objects that do not have sharp corners; in this case it is indispensable. This is a very useful and important node. With it, you can, for example, tie a bag very tightly, the valve of a soccer ball chamber, compress a leaking rubber hose, pull a carpet, a bag, a wadded blanket from above, tie the hands of a bully, put a tourniquet on a wounded limb, and much more. . "Double constrictor" (Fig. 4-23). This knot is more complicated than the previous one and is tightened even more. "Python knot" (Fig. 4-24). In principle, it is similar to the constrictor. It can be used, except in those cases as a constrictor, and for tying two transverse rails (Fig. 4-24, b). Their connection with this knot will be much stronger than on nails. They can tie the wooden slats of a kite, and when building a wicker fence, tie one rope to another at a right angle. "Blind loop" (Fig. 4-25). This knot is also called a tag knot, as it is very useful for tying keys together, for storing washers and other items that have a hole, and also for fitting around the neck of the bag when tying it. "Stop knot" (fig. 4-26). Sometimes there is a need to hold a cable under tension. This is done with the help of another cable attached with a stop knot to the cable to be stopped. If the pull of the cable to be stopped is to the right, then the running end of the locking cable is placed on top of the cable with a hose to the left, then another hose is made and the running end of the locking cable is led towards the first and second hoses, clamping them, and then to the right around rope into the wrapping, making one or two more hoses, and in two or three places they put strong contractions or fix them “under themselves”. "Swing knot" (Fig. 4-27). If you decide to make a swing in the country or in the courtyard of your house, then do not look for a better knot. "Groove with half bayonets" (Fig. 4-28). This knot, proven by centuries of experience at sea, has long been used on the shore. It is reliable and very strong, tightening exceptionally firmly around the object, but when the pull on the cable stops, it is very easy and simple to untie it. The noose with half bayonets is widely used by lumberjacks. In many foreign languages it is called "forest knot", or "log knot". To lift a heavy log or pipe, instead of special rigging devices, you can get by with a vegetable or steel cable of appropriate strength. But for this it is necessary to be able to tie a knot correctly. It must always be knitted a little away from the middle of the log (pipe). Having brought the running end of the cable out of the loop that makes up the knot, it is pulled towards the end of the object being lifted, from which there will be thrust, and two half bayonets are made. But, as a rule, two half-bayonets are made before the start of knitting the noose, since the root end of the tackle is already attached to the lifting mechanism. The slack in the cable between the choke and half bayonets must be taken out before lifting. Having lifted the object with a crane, it is better to deliver it to the place in one go, without lowering it to the ground. You should always remember that this knot must be checked before each lift (if it is carried out in two steps). It is also important in which direction to make half-bayonets on the log. They should be laid along the descent of the cable. Lifting heavy objects with a noose without half bayonets is considered dangerous.
NON-LOCKING KNOT "Simple half-bayonet" (fig. 3-8). It is the simplest of non-stretching knots, it is widely used - it serves as the final element of many knots. The knotted half-bayonet with the running end attached to the scrum reliably withstands strong traction. It may move towards the subject, but it will never drag on. "Simple bayonet" (Fig. 3-9). Two identical half-bayonets make up a knot, which is called a simple bayonet. This non-tightening knot is one of the simplest and most reliable knots for fastening. For a properly tied bayonet, its running end, both after the first and after the second peg, should exit equally above or below its end. In an inverted, that is, incorrectly tied bayonet, the running end after the second pebble goes in the opposite direction, not like after the first one. If the half-bayonets of a simple bayonet are made in different directions, then when the cable is pulled, they will converge together, and the knot will be tightened. More than three half-bayonets in such a knot should not be thrown, since this is quite enough and the strength of the knot as a whole will not increase with a larger number of half-bayonets. This simple but reliable knot can be used in all cases when the cable needs to be temporarily attached to some object for strong traction, for example, by a hook when towing a car. "Bed bayonet" (Fig. 3-10). This non-tightening knot securely holds even with strong pitching, and if necessary, it can be easily and quickly untied. "A simple bayonet with a hose" (Fig. 3-11). This knot differs from a simple bayonet by one additional hose around the object to which the cable is attached. Two hoses around the object make this knot more reliable under prolonged loads - due to the additional hose, it will not fray as quickly as a simple bayonet. "A simple bayonet with two hoses" (Fig. 3-12). It differs from the previous node in an additional, third hose, which increases the strength and reliability of the node if the cable is under constant pressure. "Bayonet with a run-out" (Fig. 3-13). It is more symmetrical than a simple bayonet with two hoses, and in the event of a change in the direction of the thrust, it moves less along the object to which it is tied. To tie a bayonet with a run-out, you first need to make one hose around the object with the running end, surround it behind the root end and make the hose again, but in the other direction. After that, one or two half bayonets should be made. "Reverse bayonet" (Fig. 3-14). Often a situation arises when the running end of the cable is enclosed around an object (logs, etc.). p.) is very difficult. Using a reverse bayonet, you can wrap the cable around the desired object once and at the same time tie a knot with two hoses around the object to which you are attaching the cable. To do this, the running end of the cable must be doubled over a length of 2-3m and, passing it around the object in a loop, pull the loops towards you. Now the running end of the cable must be threaded into this loop, and for the root end, take out the slack and finish the knot with two half bayonets. "Fisherman's bayonet" ("anchor knot") (Fig. 3-15) Recognized by sailors of all countries as the most reliable for attaching a rope. It can be used in all cases when working with cables, when they are subject to strong traction. "Mast bayonet" (Fig. 3-16). First, a knotted knot is tied around the object to which the cable is attached (see; Fig. 4-20) and a simple bayonet is made at the root end of the cable - a reliable and simple knot is obtained. To prevent the mast knot from being tightened, the first knot is not fully tightened. "Port node" (Fig. 3-17). First, near the pedestal, you need to make several hoses with the running end of the mooring cable. After that, fold the running end in half and in this form, loop, pass it under the stretched root part of the cable, turn the loop 360 ° and throw it on top of the pedestal. This knot does not slip, holds securely. The cable can be released at any time, even if it is under strong tension. To do this, you need to slightly select the running end passing under the root end and increase the loop, after which it will not be difficult to throw it off the cabinet.
KNOTS FOR CONNECTING TWO ROPES "Oak knot" (Fig. 5-29). Its positive qualities are the speed in which it can be tied, and reliability. It is used only in exceptional cases, when it becomes necessary to tie two cables very quickly. When connecting plant cables, the connection has a significant drawback: a tightly tied knot is very difficult to untie later, especially if it gets wet. In addition, a cable tied in such a knot has less strength and, during operation, creates a danger of catching on something during its movement. To connect two cables, their ends must be folded along together and, stepping back from the edges of 15-20 cm, tie both ends as one with a simple knot. Do not try to tie synthetic cables and fishing line with this knot: he crawls on them. "Flemish knot" (Fig. 5-30). This is one of the oldest marine knots, which was used to connect two both thin and thick cables. In fact, this is the same figure eight, tied with two ends. First, make a figure-eight at the end of one of the cables to be tied (see Figure 2-2). Towards the exit of the running end from it, enter the running end of the second cable and repeat the figure eight tied on the first cable. After that, grasping each end on the left and right, evenly begin to tighten the knot, trying to keep its shape. To finally tighten the knot, pull on the root ends of the cables. There is a second way of knitting: with cables folded approximately one meter long, we tie a figure eight, but at the same time you will have to carry it around and thread it into the loop along with the short running end of one of the cables and the long root - this is the inconvenience second knitting method. The connection of the Flemish knot of two cables is considered very strong. This knot, even when tightly tightened, does not damage the cable, and is relatively easy to untie. In addition, it has excellent quality - it does not slip and holds securely on a synthetic fishing line. "Flat knot" (Fig. 5-31). This knot has long been considered one of the most reliable knots for tying cables of different thicknesses. Having eight weaves, the flat knot never tightens much, does not creep and does not spoil the cable, since it does not have sharp bends, and the load on the cables is evenly distributed over the knot. After removing the load on the cable, this knot is easy to untie. Its important advantage is that it is really flat. There are two ways to knit this knot: an unstretched knot with a tack of its free running ends to the root or half-bayonets at their ends (Fig; 5-31, a) And without such a tack, when the knot is tightened (Fig. 5-31b). A flat knot tied in the first way (in this form it is called the “Josephine knot”) on two cables of different thicknesses almost does not change its shape even with very high traction and is easily untied when the load is removed. The second knitting method is used for tying thinner cables, with the same or almost the same thickness. At the same time, it is recommended to first tighten the tied flat knot with your hands so that it does not twist with a sharp pull. After that, when a load is given to the connected cable, the knot crawls and twists for some time, but, having stopped, it holds firmly. It is untied without the application of special efforts by shifting the loops covering the root ends. Since the flat knot has eight intersections, it can be tied in different ways - there are 256 different options for tying it. But not every knot from this number, tied according to the principle of a flat knot (alternating intersection of opposite ends “under and over”), will hold securely. Ninety percent of them are unreliable, and some are even dangerous for tying cables designed for strong traction. Its principle depends on the change in the sequence of intersection of the connected cables in a flat knot, and it is enough to slightly change this order, as the knot receives other negative qualities. On fig. 5-31 is a knitting scheme, proven and tested by practice. Before you use this knot for a responsible business, you must first remember exactly its scheme and tie the cables exactly along it without any even the most insignificant changes. Only in this case, the flat knot will serve you faithfully and will not let you down, the “Hunting knot” (Fig. 5-32). This new knot was invented by an English retired doctor Edward Hunter (translated from English as “hunter”), and the receipt of a patent for the invention by the author in 1979 caused a sensation in the maritime circles of many countries. In essence, the hunting knot is a successful interlacing of two simple knots tied at the ends of the cables. It holds perfectly on all cables, including the thinnest synthetic lines. "Bramshkotovy knot" (Fig. 5-33). This knot is also reliable for tying two cables of different thicknesses, both vegetable and synthetic. Its reliability is also in the fact that it does not immediately untie when the pull on the cable stops. "Furrier knot" (Fig. 5-34). This wonderful knot is relatively simple, compact, has enough intersections to provide strong tightening, and is untied without much difficulty. It can be successfully used for tying synthetic ropes and fishing lines. There are two ways to knit it. "Surgical node" (Fig. 5-35). Physicians still use this knot in our time. First, one after the other, two half-knots are made with two ends, which are then pulled in different directions. Then they tie from above, but in the other direction, another half-knot. The principle of the knot is that the first two half-knots do not allow the two ends to disperse in different directions while another half-knot is knitted on top. It is convenient to use this knot when there is a need to pull off and tie some elastic bale or load with a rope and tighten the first half of the knot on the rope, which, without releasing its ends with your hands, you have to press with your knee. "Academic knot" (Fig. 5-36). This knot is similar to the surgical one, differing only in that instead of one second half-node, it has two of them. It differs from its progenitor, a direct knot (see Fig. 6-39), in that the running end of the cable is wrapped around the running end of another cable twice, after which the running ends lead towards each other and again run around them twice, that is, below two half-knots and two half-knots on top, but tied in the opposite direction. This gives it the advantage that when the rope is heavily loaded, it does not tighten as much as a straight knot and is easier to untie. "Dagger knot" (Fig. 5-37). This knot is considered one of the best knots for tying two large diameter vegetable cables. It is not very complex in its scheme and is very compact. It is most convenient to tie it if you first lay the running end of the cable in the form of the number "8" on top of the main one. After that, thread the elongated running end of the second cable into loops, pass it under the middle intersection of the figure eight and bring it out over the second intersection of the first cable. Next, the running end of the second cable must be passed under the root end of the first cable and inserted into the figure-eight loop. When the knot is tightened, the two running ends of both cables stick out in different directions. The knot is easy to untie if one of the outermost loops is loosened. "Weaving knot" (Fig. 5-38). This knot embodies simplicity, reliability and compactness with instant thread tying. "Straight knot" (Fig. 6-39). Apparently, only in our country there is an unreasonably respectful attitude towards this knot. Sailors of other countries treat him more soberly and even with prejudice. After all, it cannot be used to connect two cables that will be subject to strong traction: it creeps and is dangerous when it gets wet. This knot has claimed more lives than a dozen other knots combined. Unfortunately, many of the compilers of various manuals and manuals for riggers, builders, firefighters, climbers and mine rescuers still recommend a straight knot for tying two cables. But it can be sufficiently reliable only if its running ends are attached to the main ones. This knot is good for packing things, bundles, etc. A straight knot is two half knots, sequentially tied one above the other in different directions. This is the usual, easiest way to knit it (Fig. 6-39, a). Sailors, who have been using this knot since ancient times to tie cables, use a different knitting method (Fig. 6-39, b). Weavers who use a straight knot to bind broken threads of yarn tie it in their own way, in a special, convenient way for them (Fig. 6-39, c). This knot, which, according to the characteristic unanimously accepted by our specialists, “is so tightened that it cannot be untied and will have to be cut,” it turns out, even wet and tightly tightened, it is untied very simply, in 1-2 seconds. Take root end A in your left hand (Fig. 6-39, d) and, so that it does not slip out of your hand, make a couple of hoses around your palm. Also take the running end B in your right hand. Pull the ends sharply and strongly in different directions. Without releasing end A from your left hand, hold the rest of the knot in your fist with your right hand, holding it with your thumb and forefinger. Pull root end A to the left side, and the knot will untie. The whole secret lies in the fact that when the ends of A and B are jerked in different directions, the straight knot turns into two half bayonets and completely loses its properties. It is also easily untied if you take the root end D in your right hand and pull the running end B strongly to the left. Only in this case, the end of G then needs to be pulled to the right, and the rest of the knot (half bayonets) to the left. When untying a straight knot in this way, remember that if you pulled the running end to the right, then pull the main end to the left, and vice versa. When untying a straight knot, one should not forget that with what force it was tightened, it is necessary to pull one of its running ends with the same force. Even a wet straight knot tied on the thickest vegetable cable, which is under strong traction, can always be untied by taking one of the running ends to a capstan or winch. In any case, you do not need to cut the cable. There are three dangerous knots that are very similar to the straight knot: "baby" (Fig. 6-40), "mother-in-law" (Fig. 6-41) and thieves (Fig. 6-42). The primitive "woman's" knot, unfortunately, has firmly taken root in our life, and most people, having mastered this knot in childhood, have so much faith in its utility that they do not even want to hear about any other knots. However, this traitor knot in the history of mankind has done a lot of trouble and even claimed a lot of human lives. The "baby" knot consists of two half-knots tied in series one above the other in the same direction. If they tie two ropes and pull, then it is immediately clear that the knot begins to move along the rope, slide along it. And if you tie it close to one of the tied ends of the rope, then when pulling it, it can slip off. But, oddly enough, the woman's knot is used in their work by sailors and fishermen of some countries. In addition to its negative qualities (to slip and not succumb to untying), they caught one of its positive qualities: under certain conditions, it instantly turns into a simple bayonet (see Fig. 3-9) - one of the simplest and most reliable ¬nyh maritime knots for securing the mooring ship on the shore for a fire, bollard or berth, without leaving the ship ashore. And this is done with the help of the “woman's” knot, despised by sailors. To do this, a loop is made at the end of the cable, which they intend to bring to the shore for fastening it with a simple bayonet around the pedestal, while the running end is connected to the root end of the “woman's” knot, which is not fully tightened. From the side of the ship, this loop is dropped onto the pedestal and, with a jerk for the root part of the mooring line, the “woman's” knot turns into a simple bayonet. Some people, by tying two ropes together, somehow manage to tie a so-called "mother-in-law" knot (Fig. 6-41), somewhat reminiscent of a "woman's" knot (Fig. 6-40). If at the latter the running ends come out of the knot on one side, then at the “mother-in-law” knot they come out from different sides diagonally. The "mother-in-law" knot is as insidious as the "woman's" knot (if not more). It should never be used under any circumstances. "Thieves' knot" (Fig. 6-42). At first glance, it almost does not differ from a direct knot (see Fig. 6-39) and it seems that it is akin to it. But if you look closely, it becomes clear that the running ends of the thief's knot come out of it diagonally. The thieves' knot, as well as the "baby" and "mother-in-law" knots, are shown for clarity, in order to emphasize their similarity and difference with the direct knot. The use of these four nodes is not recommended, as they are unreliable for tying two cables.
NON-TIGHTENING LOOPS "Oak loop" (Fig. "7-43). This is the simplest loop of all existing non-tightening loops. It is knitted with a simple knot at the end of a cable folded in half (hereinafter, the circle indicates the working loop in the diagrams). The oak loop is strong and safe, unlike the oak knot, it can be used on a synthetic cable. However, oak; the loop weakens the cable by bending it; it is strongly "tightened" and very difficult to untie. "vein loop" (Fig. 7-44). If, by tying an oak loop, with a doubled running end to make an additional hose, you get a loop that will be a little easier to untie. It is used for thin fishing lines. "Flemish loop" (Fig. 7-45). Tied with a figure eight on a double-folded cable, it is a strong and easily untied loop at the end of the cable. The Flemish loop is suitable for knitting on both thick and thin cables. It almost does not weaken the strength of the cable. It is used for fastening the strings of musical instruments and other purposes. "Perfect loop" (Fig. 7-46). The knot with which this fixed loop is knitted at the end of the cable is simple, reliable and does not slip even on the thinnest synthetic fishing line. The perfect loop is very popular with anglers abroad. "Arbor knot" (Fig. 7-47). The second name for this knot is "booline knot", or "booline". This is one of the oldest and most amazing knots ever invented by man. He is often referred to as the "King of Knots"; not every sea knot can be compared with it in the number of positive properties that it possesses. It is surprisingly easy to knit, even with strong traction it never tightens “tightly”, does not spoil the cable, never slides along the cable, does not untie itself and is easily untied when needed. In appearance, it looks like a weaving knot, but its running end does not go into the loop of the other end, but into the loop of its root end. The arbor knot, despite its amazing compactness, contains elements of a simple knot, half-bayonet, weaving and direct knot at the same time. The elements of all these nodes in a certain combination give the gazebo node the right to be called universal. The main purpose of the gazebo knot is to tie a person with a cable under the armpits when ascending to a height or when lowering. A gazebo can be inserted into the non-stretching loop of this knot (a small wooden platform board used to lift a person onto a mast or lower a ship overboard during painting or other work). This knot can be successfully used for tying two cables of the same or different diameters or cables from different materials (connecting two cables from different materials with loops using two arbors will be the most reliable). In addition, a reliable tightening loop can be made from the gazebo knot (see "Running Bowline" below). The gazebo knot can also be used without fear for temporary shortening of the cable or in the case when it is required to exclude a worn-out piece of cable from work by tying the knot so that this piece falls on the loop. There are many ways to knit a gazebo knot. On fig. 7-47 shows the most rational and simplest way. In life, the ability to quickly tie a bow knot around your waist can always come in handy. You need to be able to do this with one hand with one continuous movement of the brush, in the dark, in 2-3 seconds. It is not difficult to learn this at all, it is enough to do it several times in a row. To untie the gazebo knot, it is enough to slightly move the loop of the running end along the weakened root of the cable. Double arbor knot (Fig. 7-48). This knot, which has two non-stretching loops, is used instead of a gazebo for lifting a person to a height, for lifting or lowering a person who has lost consciousness, and in other cases. When knitting a knot, one of the loops is made almost half the size of the other. A person sits in one loop, the second loop wraps around his armpit torso. This allows him, having risen to a height, to work with both hands. There are several ways to tie a double bow knot. Let's consider the simplest one. The knot is knitted with a cable folded in half. After entering the running end (in the form of a loop) into the small loop of the knot, it needs to be pulled out a little and, wrapped around the large loop, placed in the upper part of the knot. Holding the root of the cable, with the other hand, pull down the right side of the large double loop. After that, the knot will tighten and be ready for use. The top knot (Fig. 7-49) can be used for fastening temporary guys when installing masts, driving piles, planting seedlings. If you have a jug with a more or less large protrusion in the neck, you can make a convenient handle for it with the help of a top knot. For carrying watermelons and large melons, it is best to use this knot, because it was once used on warships to carry cores. From a piece of any cable 2 meters long, a reliable basket for the largest watermelon is obtained. At the same time, the knot should not be completely tightened, and its three loops should be tied with two free ends. Of the known methods of knitting a top knot, the one shown in the diagram is considered the best. Boatswain, or "Spanish gazebo" knot (Fig. 7-50). It, like the double gazebo, serves to lift a person up or to lower him from a height. A foot is inserted into each of the two loops of the boatswain's knot and a hand is held on the cable. With this knot, you can raise (or lower from a height) an unconscious person. So that he does not fall out of two loops, one or two half-bayonets are additionally tied on his chest with the running end of the cable. Burlatsky loop (Fig. 7-51). It is also called a harness loop, or a Pushkar knot. This loop can be made both at the end of the cable, and on any part of it. The loop is designed to apply traction in any direction. It is easy to tie and holds securely, but before a load is applied to the loop, it must be tightened firmly by hand, as with a sharp pull it tends to turn over and slide along the cable for a while. Several loops tied in this way will help to pull out a car stuck in the mud, allow you to climb to a height or descend from a sheer cliff.
TIGHTENING LOOP A running simple knot (fig. 8-52). This is the simplest knot, forming a tightening loop. When pulling at the root end, the loop is tightened, but it can be increased in size by pulling the running end away from the loop. A knot can be tied anywhere in the rope. With it, you can tighten a bag, tie a bale, attach a cable to something, moor a boat behind a pile. Sliding figure eight (Figure 8-53). Based on the principle of eight, this knot belongs to the category of reliable, highly tightened loops. It has the property of smoothly and evenly tightening when pulling at the root end. ".-." ...: ..; . Silk knot (fig. 8-54). This knot is borrowed from the simple technique of birders. Snares made from horsehair, hair or the thinnest fishing line, with the help of such a knot, work flawlessly. The silk knot is considered one of the most smoothly and easily tightened knots. A running bowline (Figure 8-55). This is the same gazebo knot with a small loop into which the root end is passed. It is based on the lasso principle. The running bowline works flawlessly. It is used to catch floating logs and driftwood, they are looking for and raising anchors left at the bottom. Tightening noose (fig. 8-56). This node is also called the "scaffold", or "hanging" node. It also finds another application: it is used for temporary fastening of a cable for objects floating in water or for throwing and fastening a cable for any object. This knot has an advantage even over such a Good knot as a half-bayonet garrote, in that the running end of the cable cannot slip out of the loop, and therefore a tightening garrote is considered more reliable. To tie this knot, the cable is laid in the form of two loops of the same size. Both loops are surrounded several times with the running end of the cable, after which this end is passed into the loop facing the root of the cable, and, PULLING the extreme loop, they are clamped in it. A tightening noose can always be easily untied by pulling on the root cable. This dark knot can also be used to store the cable in a compact coil or as a weight at the throwing end for its supply. If it seems to you insufficient as a load at the throwing end, then lower it into the water before use. The "drunken" knot (fig. 8-57) has two tightening loops. When pulling simultaneously on the running and root ends, the loops are tightened. The knot got its name, apparently, because it was used to pacify excessively roaming people, putting loops on the wrists behind the back and tying the ends on the chest.
QUICK UNLOADING KNOTS Untying figure eight (fig. 9-58). If an ordinary figure eight (see Fig. 2-2) is made with a loop, i.e., skip the running end folded in half into its last loop, then we will get a quick-release stopper. Unleashing a running simple knot (Fig. 9-59). A running simple knot (see Fig. 8-52) can be easily turned into a quick untied knot without changing its function, that is, using it as a tightening loop, and not as a quick untied knot. To do this, you need to enter the running end, folded in half, into its loop. In this case, it will have two properties at once: it will tighten and quickly untie if you pull the running end sticking out of the loop. This is a very common knot. All over the world, it is to them that horses are tied by a bridle to a leash. So that the knot does not accidentally untie, the end of the bridle is pushed into the loop (Fig. 9-59, b). With the help of a simple knot that can be untied, it is possible to moor a boat behind a coastal pile or pedestal in such a way that, if necessary, the cable can be released without leaving the boat by pulling on the running end, left long enough. The Kalmyk knot (Fig. 9-60) is one of the most practical and reliable knots. The origin of the node is clear from the name. And, although the Kalmyk steppes do not evoke associations with the sea and ships, it has long been used in the navy. Foreign sailors do not know him, he is not mentioned in foreign manuals. This beautiful knot is knitted almost instantly in the following way. Get the running end of the cable behind the object and take it, stepping back a little from the end, from above with your left hand with your thumb towards you. With your right hand, place the root end over the left fist, in which the running end is already clamped, and make the root of the cable complete a turn around it. Then, with the movement of the left hand, move the root end under the root of the large loop with the simultaneous carrying of the running end around the same part of the cable and with the subsequent interception of the running end with the fingers of the left hand. After that, gently pull the running end in the form of a loop through the root end hose located on the left hand (by dropping the hose), so that the running end does not straighten out, and tighten the knot with the root end. The Kalmyk knot securely holds and quickly unties if you pull on the running end. It is used for temporary fastening of the throwing end to the mooring line (ring) when the latter is fed from the vessel to the berth. It is used to attach the reins to the bridle, as well as to tie the horse in the stable. If a running end that is not folded in half is passed into the loop of the Kalmyk knot, then the knot will not be quickly untied. He is in this form. called the Cossack knot. The untied weaving knot (Fig. 9-61) holds securely, but can be untied at any moment, even under tension. Reef knot (Fig. 9-62). This popular in the past marine. the knot is known in everyday life under the name "knot with one bow". He is familiar to everyone, many tie their shoelaces with them. This simple and useful knot is very similar to the straight knot and is knitted in the manner shown in fig. 6-39, except that when knitting the second half-knot, its running end is threaded into the loop folded in half. When jerking the running end, the knot is instantly untied. Double reef, or fall knot (Fig. 9-63). Sailors almost never use it: for a temporary connection, a reef knot is enough for them. In the dictionary of Vladimir Dal, it is called a "loop knot" and "repeik (bow)". Often it is also called a byte node. It knits from the same way as a straight knot, but in the second half-knot, the running ends of the cable are tied folded in half. It is an indispensable knot for tying shoelaces, rope, bows around the neck and bows in the hair, as well as on bundles and boxes. The mill knot (Fig. 9-64) is considered one of the most common among the many ingenious knots for tying bags. In principle, this is the same figure eight, in the second loop of which a doubled running end is skipped. It is very convenient in that it can be tightly tightened and quickly untied by pulling on the running end. Bucket knot (fig. 9-65). With this “remotely untied” knot, you can lower an object from a height, such as a bucket of water or mortar, put it on the ground and raise the rope up again. Firefighters, builders and climbers can successfully use this original knot. Imagine that a climber needs to descend from a height down a rope. He walks alone, and he has one rope that he still needs. The rope must be secured with a bucket knot, go down along its root end and, with a jerk for the long running end, untie the knot tied at the top.
SPECIAL SEA KNOTTS Tack knot (Fig. 10-66). When the necessary stopper is not at hand, the load is lifted by a crane or an arrow on the hook, using an ordinary steel or vegetable cable. At the same time, they use a hook knot. When the root end is loaded, the running end of the cable is pressed against the inside of the neck of the hook, and the loop tightened around its back holds both ends - this is the great wisdom of this simple knot. Putting the cable on the hook, you need to carefully ensure that the root end of the cable must pass under the chassis. However, it should be borne in mind that it is possible to lay and safely lift the load with a single hook knot only if the cable is thick enough in relation to the hook. So that the hook knot does not get poisoned when the load is stopped, the running end is seized with a temporary fight to the root one. Using the principle of the hook knot, it is possible to lift a bag on the hook without a cable if its neck can be wrapped once around the back of the hook. Shack knot with a hose (Fig. 10-67). A thin cable laid with a single hook knot can slide off the back of the hook. If the cable is thin in relation to the hook, it is laid with a hook knot with a hose, which greatly increases the reliability of lifting the load. "Cat's paw" (Fig. 10-68). The name of this node is justified - it looks like a cat's paw. This knot is used in cases where the line must be attached to the hook in such a way that there is no excess slack. To tie this knot, a loop of the sling is placed on top of its two ends - two small loops are obtained, each of which is simultaneously twisted outward several times, depending on how much the sling needs to be reduced. Then the loops are brought together and put on the hook. The "cat's paw" is not clamped tightly, and the knot is easy to remove from the hook if there is no load on the sling. The barrel knot (Fig. 10-69) is used when there is no special sling or device for lifting full open barrels in a vertical position. A half-knot is knitted on the middle part of the cable, the half-loops of the knot are pulled apart and cover the middle part of the barrel with them. The lower part of the loop runs along the center of the bottom of the barrel, the free ends of the cable are tied with a straight knot, and if the cable is already fixed at one end, then with a gazebo. The barrel assembly is used when loading various types of containers that have a cylindrical shape. In everyday life, they can quickly tie a can or a tank without a handle. Amphora knot (Fig. 10-70). The ancient Greeks came up with this knot, it allowed them to conveniently carry amphorae (universal vessels with pointed bottoms, in which they stored and transported olive oil, olives, wine, grain, flour, etc.). ) without the risk of losing their valuable content. This knot is not simple, it is difficult to knit, in several stages, but with its help you can make an excellent rope handle for carrying a bottle, a jug, and in general any vessel with a small protrusion on the neck. Olympic knot (Fig. 10-71). It was called Olympic because it is obtained from five rings. This ancient sail knot from the Golden Age of Sail sounds very sentimental in English: "Two hearts beating as one." The purpose of the knot is to shorten the cable for a while. The Olympic knot is reliable and, despite the bulkiness that seems at first glance, it fits quite simply. Crab loop, or lingering fire (Fig. 10-72). The peculiarity of this knot is that it can work in two qualities: a tightening loop or a non-tightening loop. If the ends of the crab knot at the points marked with the letters A and B are sharply and strongly pulled in different directions indicated by the arrows, the knot ceases to be tightened. Taking the form shown in the third position from the right in the figure, the knot is no longer tightened, its loop becomes permanent.
KNOTS FOR FISHING GEAR Blind knot (Fig. 11-73). If a non-tightening loop is made at the end of the leash, the easiest and most reliable way to attach a fishing hook to it is to thread its end into the eye of the hook and throw it over the hook, forming a blind loop. This method is good for both cotton and thin synthetic lines, it can also be used if the loop is made of soft wire. This knot is convenient to tie sinkers to the fishing line. Fishing eight (Fig. 11-74). This is a reliable way to attach fishing line to an eye hook. He gives a full guarantee that the hook will not come off. Tuna knot (Fig. 11-75). It differs from other knots in that the eye of the hook is wrapped around two loops at the same time (like a blind loop). Although it is difficult to knit, it is considered the best of all fishing knots designed for synthetic line. Step knot (Fig. 11-76). This knot is the most reliable for attaching fishing line to a hook without an eye. It is somewhat reminiscent of a tightening noose. Lead based on a running knot (Fig. 11-77). The ability to quickly and reliably tie leashes to the fishing line is an important matter for every angler. To tie a cross leash to the fishing line in this way, tie a running simple knot in the right place on the fishing line, but do not tighten it all the way. Tie a figure-eight at the end of the leash and pass its end into the loop of the running knot. After tightening the last knot, as shown in Fig. 11-77, you will securely attach the leash to the fishing line. Leash based on a snake knot (Fig. 11-78). This is a more complicated, but also more reliable way of tying a transverse leash to a fishing line. Before tightening the snake knot made on the fishing line, insert the end of the leash with the figure eight tied into its middle. When tying a snake knot, both parts of it will converge and securely clamp the leash in front of the figure eight. Roller assembly (Fig. 11-79). To tie this knot on the fishing line, first you need to make a simple knot and insert the running end of the leash into it. The latter must be fixed like a multiple figure eight around the fishing line and the root end of the leash. Such fastening is quite reliable and easy.
DECORATIVE KNOTTS In addition to the decorative knots already discussed (oyster, straight, Flemish, flat, and flat), many other beautiful knots can be used in applied art. After all, strict, symmetrical, and often ornate and very complex in their form, drawings of knots have long been used to create heraldic signs, coats of arms, emblems, company signs, seals and vignettes. Tailors often took schemes of knots for galloons and decoration of ceremonial uniforms and ladies' ball gowns. Many schemes of tied but loose knots are used by lace makers and embroiderers to finish their products, as well as when weaving macramé. Consider knots, which, in addition to their practical purpose, can be used in everyday life as decorative knots during various work with cables. Royal knot (Fig. 12-80). In principle, this is a reliable stop knot, like a figure-eight, stevedoring, yufers, etc. Tied on a thick cord, the royal knot is decorative and can be used to tie the ends of cords for curtains, curtains, curtains, etc. Cord knot (Fig. 12-81). A correctly tied and evenly tightened cord knot looks very impressive on cords for curtains, curtains and curtains. It can be used at the end of a cord to switch an electric switch. Turkish knot (Fig. 12-82). To properly tie this knot, you need to be patient. The knot is quite complicated, but it looks beautiful on a thick cable, especially if it is doubly tied. Can be applied to already mentioned cords. Three-loop knot (Fig. 12-83). The symmetrical scheme of this stopper unit, used in maritime affairs, has long attracted the attention of artists and graphic artists of applied art. This is a good ornament for all sorts of decorative artwork. Four-loop knot (Fig. 12-84). The symmetry and certain ornateness of this knot allow us to classify it as decorative knots. It serves the artists in choosing the ornament for the decorative finish.
