Below is a list of mountain passes in the western Caucasus. In parentheses are the category of the pass and the height of the pass. Difficulty categories of passes. Pass 1a of difficulty category

In mountain tourism and mountaineering, there are categories of difficulty (c.p.) defined by the Unified All-Russian Sports Classification of Tourist Routes (EBCMT) and the Recommendations for the classification of climbing routes approved by the Russian Mountaineering Federation.

The category of difficulty of the campaign consists of the number and complexity of local obstacles, the length of the route and its duration. In total there are six categories of difficulty for hiking and for local obstacles - passes and peaks. Hikes are classified from 1st to 6th grade, and for local obstacles, the following gradations are introduced: uncategorized passes (NK), 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B, 3A, 3B.

“Uncategorized” (NK) trips are used to prepare beginners and are available to everyone, as well as a trek of the 1st category of difficulty. They differ in that they do not have enough passes or are too short. Usually, camping trips and 1st c.p. pass in low mountain areas, they are not terrible for health and do not require special technical skills and special equipment.

Sites of the second - simple difficulty - these are snow-ice sections with a steepness of 25-30 ° and non-steep cliffs. When passing, elementary climbing preparation is required.

The sections of the third - medium difficulty are ice-snow sections with a steepness of 30-45 °. Mountaineering proper begins with this category of difficulties, because movement in such areas requires special mountaineering training and equipment for organizing safe movement (insurance).

The fourth sections are above average difficulty (difficult). These are steep (40-55 °) ice-snow slopes and ridges with a variety of snow cornices, the passage of which requires intense free climbing and good command of the technique of moving to the foothills. Equipment: climbing shoes, cats, ice axes, for organizing insurance and self-insurance - various rock hooks, ice axes, bookmarks, carbines, hammers, consumables, ropes.

The fifth difficulty areas are steep (over 45 °) ice-snow slopes, walls and ridges with a variety of snow cornices, which pass on the front teeth of cats, but mainly require the creation of artificial fulcrum. To pass these sections requires good special climbing technical, tactical, physical and moral training. Equipment: special climbing shoes, cats, ice axes, a large set of various rock hooks, mortgages, drills, carbines, hammers, auxiliary gear, ladders. Insurance and self-insurance - only hooked, the descent is carried out only by snipers.

Sites of the sixth difficulty are smooth vertical and overhanging rocks with a very limited number of inconvenient and small-sized hooks, stops, ledges, ledges necessary for organizing movement, and even cracks that allow you to organize artificial points. Almost even short narrow (for one person) shelves for relaxation are practically absent. The sites require excellent command of the highest mountain climbing special technique of movement, tactical, physical, psychological and moral training, mastery of the special climbing technique and can be completed with a limited number of very well-trained mountaineering athletes.

Going around the rocky cliff near the lake, the path rises first along the grassy slope, then goes onto the scree and along it, serpentine, goes in the direction of the passage between the rocky outcrops. We start climbing along it and, after 20 minutes, we exit to the fork in the paths. Altitude 3633 m, coordinates 42.3217616603 78.5256071482.

We select the left path, which traverses the scree and gradually rises towards the pass. The right path goes down, along a grassy slope with stones, towards the Aksai-Travel campground, and then to the shore of the lake.

Climbing the path is not difficult, but monotonous (this is true about the entire path to the pass). We go slowly, inspect the rocks to the left of the trail. In principle, here you can find places for training, but there are not very many flat areas where you could gather under the rocks, they are surrounded by plumes of talus, there is no water throughout the ascent.

The trail gradually turns to the pass. Crossing the scree in ridges, it periodically descends and rises, but the general nature of the rise is the traverse of the scree slope with a small climb. Almost all the time the trail goes under the rocks, crossing scree in their upper part. About 10-15 minutes before the pass we leave for a local flattening - the scree here is larger, the path on it is lost, the path is marked with tours. We rise to the pass in 1 hour 10-20 minutes from the fork in the paths with one 10-minute halt. The saddle of the pass 16 is wide, scree, with the remains of snow cornices hanging from it. These are the only sections of snow on the take-off on both sides of the pass, dry. To the east there is a view of the headwaters of the Keldyke River.

Gathered on the pass, we admire the magnificent views of the lake, the surrounding peaks and glaciers. Height 3920 m. At 13:55 we start the descent from the pass. We do not go down to the camp, but to the shore of the lake (after about 20 minutes of descent along the path we leave it and, according to one of the screes, we go down to the water). Here, on a green terrace with a brook, we get up for lunch, finding a dry place (the shore of the lake is swampy). They went down here from the pass for 30 minutes.

2. Panoramic pass 1B 3700 (1A 3500) ???

Rise 5: 00-5: 30, exit at 7:15. Cloudy, completely calm, temperature + 8 °. The water in the lake is like a mirror; by the time of release a slight breeze rises. The trail to the Panoramic pass goes at a distance of a couple of tens of meters from the water with a traverse of the talus slope, marked by turiks. After 10 minutes, when overcoming rocky outcrops, it is divided into several, which then converge again. Suddenly, in front of the pass circus, a massive rockfall descends: large stones fly along one of the sidelines from the ridge line to the water and, reaching the lake, raise giant fountains. Alarmed, we quickly pass the rest of the trail under the rocks and make a halt at the entrance to the talus pass of the pass. Further ascent to the pass passes along medium and small scree with plots of land, steepness up to 20 °. In some places there is a trail, the scree is mostly stable. We leave for the pass at 8:45. It is windy, cool (+ 8 °), the panorama is hidden by clouds. We walk along a wide ridge in an easterly direction. There is no note on the tour. Many participants are slightly "minced." We start the descent at 9:35 diagonally to the right to reach the wide talus slope of the southern slope. 30 years of the Komsomol. Under the feet there is a small mobile scree, there is a kind of trail. We pass the beginning of a rocky and talus corridor, along which sometimes an ascent to the pass passes from the southwest, we descend 70 meters along the crest bordering the corridor on the right (the remains of the path), then again we go to the right, onto a wide slope, choosing areas of smaller talus. Next, we descend along this slope to the grass in a dense group, laying serpentines 35 minutes from the pass. The steepness of the slope is up to 25 °, the drop in altitude is 350 m. With the beginning of the descent, the weather improves, the sun comes out, gradually stretches the clouds. You can spend the night in the circus, but you will have to look for water closer to the port side. We begin the descent from the circus along the grassy slopes of the ancient moraines, first down, then going to the left side of the gorge. There is no good path, there are stones in the grass in places, it is not very convenient to walk. In 20 minutes we leave on a grassy shelf (shoulder) above a steep grassy slope that goes to the Keltor River. We decide to go down not directly along the stream, but with an oblique traverse to the left, in the direction of the upper Keltor. After a few minutes of descent from the shelf on the grass to 20 ° we find an old, weak path, leaving in the right direction. In some places it is lost, but then it is again. The trail noticeably facilitates the path. After 20 minutes of descent we cross two shallow dry sais, then the path again becomes more pronounced before entering the forest, however, judging by the sticking branches of fir and juniper, cattle are not driven for a very long time. In a rare forest, the path descends with a gentle serpentine and leads to a clearing overgrown with burdocks and sorrel near a dilapidated bridge over Keltor. When moving in the opposite direction, it is very desirable to find this path, which can be difficult: its beginning from the river is poorly read. The descent is clearly visible from the Telety valley. In 15 minutes we reach the glade by the river along the familiar road from under the Black Stones pass and set up a camp on it.

Travel time from border to forest border: 5-6 hours, in winter: 5-8 hours

History and date of ascent: the pass was first passed by Irkutsk tourists during an expedition to classify the passes in October 1970. The pass was named after the first letters of the members of the detachment that examined the pass: Bukhaltseva G., Yegorov Yu., Pelageykin V.N., Kukushkin V. N. (hands), Antipiev G.N., Nemchenko M.I.

Special equipment: main rope

The pass is one of the most popular and reliable passes through the GVH, often used to enter or exit the route in conjunction with the lane. Dinosaur (1A).

The pass is located in the right circus of the main stream (Barun-Handagay river). The approach to the lake, located at the foot of the lane. A dinosaur runs along the stream along talus and swamps with overcoming moraines. Above the lake, you can continue moving along the channel of the stream flowing out of the circus, or you can go sharply to the left (100-150 m, up to 25-30 ° to the moraine and traversing the inclined plateau, folded by flattened bedrock, go under the pass. The saddle is expressed very clearly - it is an oval talus saddle sandwiched by rocky peaks. A pass take-off of 80-100 m length and a slope of 30-35 ° passes along the medium-talus slope and leads to the saddle. The rise time from the forest border is about 2-3 hours.
The saddle of the pass is wide, scree. Tour in the center. Well visible p. SOAN, per. Snowy (1B), per. Dinosaur (1A).
  A rock discharge is located directly under the saddle, therefore, for descent, you need to go to the right with a traverse of 40-50 m (the path is read), and then down the talus lane, sandwiched by the rocks. The steepness of the couloir is 25-30 °, the length is about 100 m. And then to the lake located at the bottom of the circus along the long talus slope (about 400 m, up to 35-40 °). The duration of the descent is about 1 hour.

From under the pass, movement along the moraines along the right stream to the border of the forest is about 40-50 minutes.

From the r. The bilyuta pass is located on the left (along the way) between the peaks almost at the circus circuit. The saddle is trapezoidal, expressed unambiguously.

In winter, ski pass approach. The approach and ascent to the pass itself is practically not an avalanche hazard. When leaving the saddle, stick to the scree on the left (along the way).

Descent and traverse towards Billiota is potentially avalanche hazardous. The movement here must be carried out in compliance with all measures of avalanche safety along the rocks.

A potential avalanche is also dangerous to roll out from under the pass - here there were cases of the disappearance of powerful side avalanches practically in the forest zone.

The pass time in the winter can increase by 1-2 hours.

Description provided by L.E. Shooter.

In sports tourism, a pass is a logical place for a given route to go over the dividing line of the ridge. Thus, in sports tourism, the pass is not always the lowest and most accessible place in the crest of a mountain range or massif.

Many sports passes do not pass through the lowest place in this part of the ridge, simply because nearby (higher along the ridge) is a simpler and safer path, for example, bypassing difficult rocks and rock-hazardous sections of the route.

There are many sports passes that, from the layman's point of view, look like madness: next to them there is a simple convenient trail through the ridge, and tourists climb onto “sheer cliffs”. Such passes are held in order to improve sportsmanship and prepare for more difficult hikes without traveling outside the easily accessible mountain areas. A large number of such passes in recent years have been covered on the Kola Peninsula, the Urals.

Pass classification

In sports tourism, passes are classified according to difficulty categories, which reflect the difficulty of the pass when passing by tourists. The category of difficulty is determined by the assessment based on several signs characterizing the degree of accessibility of the pass: altitude, the steepness of the slopes, the nature of their surface, the techniques used to pass the pass, and the conditions of the overnight stay. There are 3 categories of difficulty, each of which is divided into semi-categories A and B. Passes of category 1-A are considered the simplest, 3-B are the most difficult. Passes, the complexity of which is lower than 1-A, is usually classified as non-categorical. The passes, the difficulty of which can increase by half category depending on weather and other conditions (snowfall, sudden icing of slopes, etc.), are additionally classified as an asterisk. For example, 2-A *.

In the “List of classified high mountain passes” and “List of classified high mountain passes” for each pass, its location, name, altitude, category of difficulty for different seasons, rivers and glaciers on both sides of the pass, characteristics of passage, obstacles, and dangers are indicated. The difficulty category for each pass is periodically reevaluated by a specially created commission.

Table for assessing the difficulty of passes

Notes:
  * Under the insurance points are meant the places of fastening and etching of the rope with the help of an ice ax, hooks with carabiners, rock ledges, ice columns, over the shoulder, lower back, etc., necessary for hanging the railing and for insurance going first on the rise and the last during the descent.
  * The presence of potentially hazardous areas (rockfalls, avalanches, ice landslides) does not affect the category of difficulty of the pass and should be taken into account in the tactics of passage and in the selection of equipment.
  * For passing passes of any category of difficulty in winter conditions or with deep snow on the slopes, it is additionally required to have avalanche cords (20 m) for each participant and avalanche shovels, one for every 2-3 people.

The number of difficulty categories in all types of active tourism is 6. With an increase in the complexity category of a hike, its difficulty increases from I to VI (table 1). The complexity category of a route is determined by local obstacles encountered in its path. In trekking (mountain tourism) - these are passes, in water tourism - rapids, in caving - caves, etc. In turn, local obstacles can also be divided into several categories of difficulty. The difficulty category is used in the context of the trip in general, and the difficulty category is used for local obstacles on the tourist route.

Table 1 - Standards hiking in active tourism

In tracking, the trekking route should be linear or circular and make up at least 75% of the entire route. This is done so that if there is a shortage of distance for offsetting in the IWC, tourists can make radial exits. "Radialka" counts in one direction if the return is on the same path.

The difficulty of climbing in mountaineering is determined by the complexity of a particular route to the mountain peak. There are also 6 categories of complexity, divisible by 2 semi-categories A and B (1A KS in mountaineering is not included in the offset of the category). The difficulty categories of the route are determined by the difficulty of local sections, which are also 6 from I to VI. There is an international methodology for assessing the difficulty of rocky areas UIAA   - Union of International Mountaineering Associations. The classification is presented 11 k.t. from I to XI. You can see it.

In tracking, local obstacles are mainly passes (table 2). The main categories are 3, divided into semi-categories as well as in mountaineering - A and B. There are passes without ct. - uncategorized (n / a are indicated on the maps). In the offset of the trekking trip you can include traverses and climbing peaks. Here it is necessary to correctly translate the climbing category of difficulty into trekking. Approximately it looks like this:

- the nature of the most difficult sections of the pass;

- the equipment necessary for overcoming the pass, tactics of movement and especially the places of overnight stays;

- quantitative characteristics (travel time, number of insurance points);

- necessary special equipment ( Popchikovsky V.Yu.).

In offset of a route any k.s. several passes are included (table 2). The minimum number of passes of one or another difficulty is established. At the same time, the maximum number of passes in one route can be increased by 2. A tourist group may include passes of any difficulty not exceeding the complexity of the trip. It is worth noting that, starting from the campaign of the 3rd cc, the group has the right to decide for itself which pass is more logical to pass.

Table 2 - the standards of the category of difficulty hiking in tracking

* on route VI possible per. 2B - 1 pc., 3A - 3 pc., 3B - 1 pc.

The complexity of the passes is determined as follows (table 3).

Table 3 - Criteria for assessing the difficulty of passes

(Table from the book "Russian tourist. Regulations on sports and recreational tourism in Russia for 2001-2004.")

The criteria for evaluating routes to the mountain peaks include:

- absolute height of the peak;

- the length of the route;

- the steepness of the slopes, the nature of the relief;

- technical complexity of individual sections;

- the total number of sites of varying degrees of difficulty on the way to the top;

- approaches and descent from the top are not included in the category of difficulty of the route.

In general, they are similar to the assessment of passes. The complexity of climbing routes is determined as shown in tables 4 and 5.

Table 4 - Criteria for assessing the complexity of routes to the mountain peaks

There is no official assessment of backcountry routes in the post-Soviet space. The backcountry difficulty category is closely intertwined with the complexity of climbing and hiking routes (table 6).

Table 6 - Assessment of the complexity of backcountry routes ( Vitaliy rage)

Methods for categorizing other types of active tourism can be found in detail in this book on pages 86-115. Vostokov I.E., Panov S.N. Russian tourist. Regulations on sports and recreational tourism in Russia for 2001-2004. - M., 2001. Download .

Officially, the passage of routes can be issued at Federation of sports tourism and tourist all-around, we have such   . On the site you can find various information on tourism and sporting events for active types of tourism: competitions, tours, festivals, water regattas, etc. throughout Kazakhstan. But this, if you want to become an athlete, if not, then join us.