Umayyad Mosque in Damascus. Prayer hall. Video. Mosques of Damascus Damascus. Old City: Citadel, Umayyad Mosque

Umayyad Mosque in Damascus

Damascus is one of the oldest cities in the world. It arose around the 11th century BC. e. Millennia passed, the peoples inhabiting Damascus changed, and the temples of some gods were replaced by the temples of the gods of others...

Jamia al Umayyi, otherwise the Great Mosque, or the Umayyad Mosque, is located in the center of the old city, on the site where the ancient Roman temple of Jupiter of Damascus once stood (an Aramaic temple was located here even earlier). The beauty and grandeur of this ancient temple today can be judged by the few fragments spared by time and people - for example, the six-column Triumphal Arch 16 m high. It is believed that the architectural ensemble of the Temple of Jupiter was formed by the 3rd century, and already in the next century, during the reign of Emperor Theodosius ( 379–395), it was partially destroyed. From the rubble of its southern wall, the Byzantines built a cathedral in the name of John the Baptist. According to legend, the head of John the Baptist, the Forerunner of Christ, who was killed by order of King Herod, was kept in it.

The Byzantines were replaced by Arabs. In 705, Caliph Walid ben Abd-el-Malik of the Umayyad dynasty wished to decorate his capital Damascus with a magnificent monument worthy of the splendor of the ruling dynasty. It was to eclipse all other monumental buildings in the Arab world. The Umayyad Mosque became a stronghold and shrine of Islam, the first religious building to reflect the religious beliefs of Muslims in architectural form.

It was decided to build a new mosque on the site of the Byzantine temple. It was dismantled and its materials were used to build a mosque. From all the then centers of world culture - Athens, Rome, Constantinople, the countries of the Arab East - the best artists, architects, and stone craftsmen were invited.

Umayyad Mosque

More than twelve thousand workers worked on the construction of the mosque for ten years. Mother of pearl, pearls, and gold were widely used for interior decoration. Decorated with mosaics on a golden background, inlaid with marble carvings, even today, thirteen centuries later, having gone through dozens of wars, fires, looting and many years of desolation, the Umayyad Mosque amazes with its grandeur and splendor of forms. You can imagine what it was like in the first years of its history! At that time, mosaics even covered the walls of the mosque's courtyard.

Powerful blank walls separate the mosque from the noisy city. There are four gates leading into the temple courtyard. Their portals are lined with ceramic tiles and mosaics from the Umayyad era. The courtyard is paved with square stone slabs and has the shape of a rectangle 125 m long and 50 m wide. The courtyard is surrounded on three sides by a vaulted gallery, and on the fourth side there is a prayer hall. In one of the corners there is a stone octagonal pavilion with a dome, raised on eight tall columns with magnificent capitals. This is Qubbat el-Khazneh, the treasury of the caliphs. According to legend, the Umayyad treasury was kept here. All eight sides of the treasury are covered with floral patterns.

At the opposite end of the courtyard there is a stone gazebo with a sundial. Its dome also rests on eight columns, and none of the columns is different from the other - they were probably taken from different buildings at one time. In the middle of the courtyard, as is customary, there is a traditional fountain and a pool for ablutions.

On the south side of the courtyard there is a prayer hall building. Once its facade was an open arcade; now the windows and arched spans are covered with wooden walls and stained glass windows.

The prayer hall is huge. Its length is 136 m and its width is 37 m. The vaults go up. Graceful steep arches rest on forty powerful Corinthian columns. Columns are also installed on the arches, which bear the weight of the lead roof. In the center of the hall, four massive columns support a giant dome. On the southern side there are four mihrabs indicating the direction to Mecca. The large mihrab, closest to the pulpit, stands out for its finest decoration with mother-of-pearl and colored marble.

A steep staircase behind carved high doors leads to a high pulpit (minbar) made of white marble. From here, sermons are broadcast on radio throughout the country. In the eastern part of the hall there is a marble pavilion topped with a dome, decorated with two green banners of Islam. Through its glass you can see a large tombstone. The head of John the Baptist (Muslims call him the prophet Yahya), discovered during restoration work in one of the crypts of the Byzantine temple that stood on this site, is buried here. Christianity and Islam are so closely intertwined in the Middle East!

The best decoration of the Umayyad Mosque is rightfully considered to be its mosaics. According to legend, the Caliph invited craftsmen from Constantinople to work on them. For a long time, the mosaics of the Umayyad mosque were hidden under a layer of plaster and only in 1927, through the efforts of restorers, they saw the light again. On numerous mosaic panels you can see Damascus of the Umayyad era - palaces, fruit trees, flowers, a clear, deep river.

The mosque hall is illuminated by heavy European-style crystal chandeliers. In the 19th century, the interior of the prayer hall changed its appearance somewhat. In particular, the windows and openings of the arches of the northern wall were decorated with bright, colorful stained glass windows.

Above the mosque, three minarets soar into the hot blue sky. The oldest of them is located in the center of the northern wall surrounding the mosque. It is called Al-Arouk - the minaret of the Bride and was built during the Umayyad era. Time has not preserved its original appearance. The minaret has been restored several times, and its upper part is made in a modern style. The western minaret, Al-Gharbiya, was built in the 15th century. Its rectangular tower, topped with a sharp spire, rises above the western entrance to the mosque courtyard.

The minaret, standing in the southeast corner, bears the name of... Jesus Christ! Nonsense? Not at all. Islam, as we know, does not reject Christ, but rejects his Divine origin and considers him only a prophet. The Arabs call him "Issa ben Mariam" - "Jesus, son of Mary." The lower part of the minaret of Jesus Christ looks like a quadrangular tower, and the upper part resembles a faceted pencil. There is a legend that it is on this minaret that Jesus Christ will descend from heaven at the hour of the Second Coming, for the final battle with the Antichrist on the eve of the Last Judgment, and then from here, from the top of the minaret, he will carry out his judgment on the world...

The Umayyad Mosque is available for inspection by tourists of any religion for a small fee. Only women are given black capes to cover their faces, and when entering the mosque, according to tradition, they must remove their shoes. But is it possible, having visited Damascus, not to visit the legendary Jamia al Umayyi - the Umayyad Mosque, the pearl of the Middle East?

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In the very center of old Damascus stands one of the greatest shrines of the Muslim world - the Umayyah, or Umayyad Mosque, the Great Mosque, built at the beginning of the 8th century. Caliph al-Walid ibn Abd al-Malik.

In ancient times, the Romans built the Temple of Jupiter on this site with the surrounding architectural ensemble. In the 4th century. The Byzantines came and, having destroyed the pagan temple, built an Orthodox cathedral from its rubble in the name of the Christian prophet John the Baptist, executed by King Herod.

At the beginning of the 7th century. Muslim Arabs, having captured Syria with its churches and monasteries, were amazed at their luxury and the splendor of the religious rituals of the conquered Byzantines. The commander Khaled ben Walid, to whose troops the garrison of Damascus surrendered in 636, guaranteed in writing “the inviolability of the inhabitants of the city, their property, churches and city walls.” The main cathedral of the city became a place of prayer for Muslim soldiers; Christians were also allowed here for their prayers. In a word, there was enough space for everyone. Thus, for several decades, an atmosphere of religious tolerance and mutual respect between the Christian and Muslim communities was maintained; the ringing of bells over the gigantic basilica dedicated to John the Baptist alternated with the prayerful singing of the muezzin.

But time passed, and Damascus from an ordinary city during the times of the Prophet Muhammad and his first successors turned into the capital of a huge caliphate founded by the Umayyad dynasty (661-750). The number of adherents of Islam increased so much that the grandiose Basilica of St. John with its three 140-meter spans-naves could not accommodate everyone, and Christians were completely superfluous here. In addition, the new capital grew rich, flourished, and the Umayyad caliphs rightly decided that it should have its own sanctuary, similar to the first mosques in Mecca, Medina, Kufa, Basra... And the sixth caliph from the Umayyad clan, al Walid ibn Abd al-Malik ( 705-715), whose possessions stretched from the east to the Pyrenees and the Atlantic in the west, began negotiations with representatives of the Christian community of Damascus, offering them to cede the territory of the basilica to the Muslims in exchange for permission to freely use the five temples in the city. Christians became stubborn. Then the Caliph threatened to order the destruction of the Church of St. Thomas, which was even larger in size than the Church of St. John. The Christian elders had to submit. By the way, subsequently all Christian churches were destroyed or turned into mosques, except for the Church of St. Mary, which today is the main cathedral of the Patriarch of Antioch.

Al-Walid ordered the destruction of the basilica, the removal of the remains of the Roman buildings on the site of which it was erected, and began the construction of a mosque, “which has never been and never will be more beautiful.” According to the Arab historian Abd al-Rashid al-Bakuwi, construction continued throughout the ten years of the caliph's reign with the participation of 12 thousand workers. The ruler spent seven years' kharaj (income) of the state on him. When papers with bills were delivered to him on eighteen camels, he did not even look at them and said: “This is what we spent for the sake of Allah, so let’s not regret it.”

The creation “for the sake of Allah” was truly grandiose. What Arab architects created at the beginning of the 8th century served as a model for the entire Muslim world for centuries. During the construction of the Umayyad mosque, technical and artistic techniques of Sasanian and Byzantine architecture were used; many elements of the ancient temples on the site of which construction took place were even preserved. However, the mosque's plan and internal structure received a completely different interpretation. And its decor was famous for its incomparable perfection.

The ensemble of the mosque is a rectangle 156x97 meters in plan. The prayer hall is freely visible in all directions - ancient columns, preserved from the Romans and Byzantines, are spaced five or more meters from each other. Two-tier arches rest on them, emphasizing the height of the hall, crowned in the center with a dome on four supports, which is called “qubbat an-nasr” - “the dome of victory.”

The hall of the mosque is illuminated by massive European-style crystal chandeliers. In the 19th century The prayer hall has changed its appearance somewhat. In particular, the windows and openings of the arches of the northern wall were decorated with bright, colorful stained glass windows.
A steep staircase behind carved high doors leads to a high pulpit (minbar) made of white marble. From here, spiritual sermons are now broadcast on radio throughout the country.

The Great Mosque has three minarets, each standing on foundations from Roman-Byzantine times. All of them have names: the minaret of the Bride (a quadrangular tower, since the ancient base is square), the minaret of Isa, that is, Jesus Christ (towers above the southwestern corner of the mosque), and the western minaret of Muhammad (erected in 1184).

Muslims believe that on the eve of the Last Judgment, Isa (Jesus Christ) will descend to earth near “his” minaret to fight the Antichrist. And when this happens, a girl from the Ghassanid tribe will emerge from the minaret of the Bride: she was the bride of Jesus, but the beauty was walled up in the walls of the tower that once stood in this place.

This huge mosque has many mysterious and mysterious places. In the depths of her courtyard, among the columns of the gallery, there is a small door leading to the so-called Mashhad Hussein - the chapel of Hussein: everyone in Damascus knows that here, in a capsule under a veil embroidered with Koranic inscriptions, lies the head of the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad - Hussein, a martyr of Islam, who was killed at the Battle of Karbala in 681. His head was cut off, delivered to Damascus to the ruler of Syria, Mu'awiya, and hung on the city gates - in the very place where King Herod once ordered the head of John the Baptist to be displayed. The nightingales, the legend tells, sang in the gardens of the city so sadly that all its inhabitants wept. Then Muawiyah, full of repentance, ordered the head to be placed in a golden sarcophagus and installed in a crypt, which later ended up inside the Umayyad mosque. They say that Muhammad's hair, which he cut before his last pilgrimage to Mecca, is also kept there. Near the crypt, day and night, the mullah reads the Koran.
Umayyad Mosque in Damascus
And the capsule with the head of John the Baptist, known in Rus' as John the Baptist (in the Koran he is called Yuhann), is also located here, in the Umayyad mosque. It is kept in the center of the temple, in a small elegant pavilion with a dome, repeating the shape of the arch spanned above it, and behind lattice windows. How did she get here? It has always been here, but they say it was found several centuries ago, during restoration work.

Through the famous Umayyad ivan (colonnade) the inner courtyard of the mosque is clearly visible. In the center of the courtyard is a fountain for ablution, for the temple is a place of purification.
Perhaps nowhere in the world can you find such a mosaic as in the Umayyad Mosque. The panels, with a total area of ​​35x7.5 meters, were made by hammering glass or gilded smalt cubes into a binding mass - this is how mosaics were created in the Roman Empire. According to legend, this panel was made by craftsmen hired by al-Walid from Constantinople. Whatever is depicted here: rural landscapes, flowering corners of Damascus, and the Barad River with castles on its banks. The heirs of al-Walid, fearing the wrath of Allah, ordered these images to be covered with lime mortar - examples of the culture of the early Islamic period, combining ornament and image, symbol and realistic reproduction of the earthly world. Now they have been restored.

When the envoys of Byzantium first saw the Great Mosque, they could not contain their admiration, uttering the historical phrase: “The beautiful mosque made us convinced that the Arabs had finally gained a foothold in this country and we would never be able to return here.”

Unfortunately, misfortunes and disasters did not spare this masterpiece of architecture - between 1068 and 1893, the mosque and its individual parts burned countless times. Three times - in 1157, 1200 and 1759 - it was seriously damaged by earthquakes. Since Damascus ceased to be the capital of the caliphate, Syria was subjected to devastating raids by the Seljuks, the Mongols, and the Ottomans. But each time the mosque rose up and again delighted the Muslim world with its splendor.

Muslims from all over the world still flock to the Umayyad Mosque. It is the most visited in Damascus. Muslims come here to cleanse themselves and pray, to hear and see the Word of Allah there, to become familiar with beauty, for, as the prophet said: “Allah loves the beautiful,” only with His help, with His blessing, such a miracle of harmony could appear on earth - a temple in the center of the Muslim world, open to all believers.

Muslims from all over the world try to find themselves at least once in their lives in the Umayyad mosque. It is one of the most majestic temple buildings in Syria. For the architectural heritage of the state, the value of the building is considered truly colossal. In addition, its location is very symbolic. For the temple is in Damascus. It is the oldest metropolis in the world. Read the description of the Umayyad Mosque below.

Oldest city

So, this cultural and architectural monument is located in the Syrian capital. Scientists believe that the city was founded about a thousand years ago. At the moment, it is rightfully the largest religious center in the entire Levant. And its highlight is the Umayyad Mosque.

Let us remember that the Levant is all the states of the eastern Mediterranean. Among them are Jordan, Egypt, Turkey, Lebanon, Palestine, Syria, etc.

By the way, at one time the Apostle Paul visited the city of Damascus. After this, a new religious movement arose in the capital, which began to be called Christianity. By the way, the city is mentioned several times in the Bible.

Ancient history

In ancient times, the Syrian capital was conquered by the king of the Israeli state, David. And in 333 BC. e. Alexander the Great invaded this territory and captured the city. Several centuries later, the city of Damascus recognized the power of Rome.

On the site where the mosque now stands, there was a temple of Hadad. In this territory, the ancient Arameans held their respective services. By the way, a basalt stele from that building has survived.

When the power of the Roman governors extended to the territory of Damascus, the temple was destroyed. And in its place a sanctuary of Jupiter was built. Later it became known as the Church of John the Baptist.

Note that in those days, for seven decades, the church became a refuge for both Christians and Muslims. Services were held simultaneously for these denominations. At the same time, having conquered Damascus in 636, the Arabs not only did not destroy the structure, but also erected a small extension of bricks near the temple.

Destruction of a Roman basilica

Meanwhile, the city began to turn into a real capital of a large caliphate. And the number of Muslims has increased greatly. And the huge Roman temple was no longer able to accommodate everyone. Accordingly, adherents of Christianity turned out to be superfluous.

By this time, the caliphs understood that it was high time to build their own sanctuary in the city, as in Al-Kufa, Mecca, Basra, and Medina. This structure was supposed to differ for the better from Christian churches. It would counter them with the beauty of its decoration and architecture. But before construction began, the church was initially bought from Christians, and then completely destroyed.

By the way, subsequently all Christian religious buildings were destroyed. Some of them were turned into mosques. At the moment, only St. Mary's Church has been preserved. It is now considered the main cathedral of the Antioch Patriarchate.

Construction of a mosque

Having destroyed the Roman basilica, Arab architects began the actual construction of a mosque on the same site. Construction work lasted one decade. Twelve thousand workers were involved in them.

The Damascus authorities spent all the financial resources that were then in the Syrian treasury on construction.

Also, famous architects from Persia, India and the Maghreb were involved in the work process.

In addition, a number of rulers of the Levant decided to contribute to the construction of the structure, providing a colossal amount of precious stones for this purpose.

Architecture of the building

As a result, the Umayyad Mosque (Syria) really turned out to be majestic and very beautiful. It was separated from the city by thick walls.

You can enter the building from four sides through gates. By the way, at the left entrance there is a large wooden cart on huge wheels. Many believe that this structure is a ramming device. According to them, the great Tamerlane abandoned it when he stormed Damascus. Others believe that this cart is an ancient Roman war chariot.

Behind the gate is a courtyard lined with black and white marble slabs. Its length is 125 m and its width is 50. It is decorated with images of the Gardens of Eden and mosaics. By the way, this mosaic is rightfully considered the best decoration of the mosque. They say that they invited Constantinople craftsmen to make it. True, for a long time the mosaic was hidden under a large layer of plaster. And only in 1927 were restorers able to restore its former beauty.

There is a fountain and ablution pool in the center of the courtyard. As for the floor of the prayer hall, it is covered with carpets. There are almost 5 thousand of them there. Believers donated them to the mosque.

Minarets

Three minarets rise above the temple. They have been preserved almost in their original form. But, unfortunately, not all.

The oldest minaret is located in the northern part of the wall that surrounds the temple. The name of the structure is Al-Arouk Minaret. Alas, it is difficult to say what it looked like after construction. And after regular restoration work, the top of the building is made exclusively in modern style.

The minaret, which is located in the western part of the mosque, was named Al-Gharbiya. It was built in the fifteenth century and was crowned with a rather sharp spire.

Well, the southeastern minaret bears the name Isu, or Jesus. According to legend, when the Last Judgment comes, Christ will descend this minaret and end up in the mosque. After this, he must resurrect a prophet named Yahya. Then they will go to Jerusalem, where they will establish true justice throughout the Earth. By the way, this is why every day a completely new carpet is always laid in the place where Jesus steps.

Hussein Chapel

The huge mosque building also has its own secrets. So, in the depths of the courtyard, among the columns of the gallery, there is a small door that leads to the so-called. Hussein's chapel. It is perhaps one of the main shrines of the temple. It is in this building, in a capsule, that Hussein’s head is kept. He was the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad and is considered a martyr. He was killed in one of the battles back in 681, and his head was cut off. After this she was taken to Damascus. By order of the Syrian ruler, the head was hung on the gates of the city. At one time, it was in this place that the legendary King Herod exhibited the head of John the Baptist. But we will return to this a little later.

When Hussein died, the birds, according to legend, began to make only sad trills. And all the townspeople were crying. The ruler of Syria repented and ordered the head to be placed in a tomb made of gold. Then she was placed in a crypt, and a little later - in a mosque.

In addition, adherents of Islam believe that the hair of the Prophet Muhammad lies in the chapel. Allegedly, he cut them while he was in Mecca. Note that the prophet was then in the city for the last time.

Head of John the Baptist (Prophet Yahya)

In the center of the mosque there is also a capsule with the head of John the Baptist. In Rus' he is called John the Baptist, in the Muslim world he is called Yahya.

This shrine was found completely by accident. When construction work on the construction of the mosque had just begun, Syrian architects were laying the foundation. It was then that the grave was found. Believers claim that this was the burial place of John the Baptist. Be that as it may, the ruler ordered the grave to be preserved. As a result, she remained in the same place where she was found later. It is located in the very center of the courtyard.

The tomb is made of white marble. It is surrounded by glass niches. Through them, believers can put a photograph or memorial note inside. In addition, there you can give money to this saint as a gift.

To be honest, the story has not yet been fully clarified. They say that the grave of the Prophet Yahya contains only part of his relics. Other parts of the head are found in Amiens, Athos and Rome.

Rules for visiting the temple

The Umayyad Mosque in Damascus is considered a very hospitable place. And for people of absolutely any religion. Guests and believers, as a rule, always behave quite relaxed. They can pray, sit, read, lie down and even sleep. And small children love to roll on the marble slabs of the courtyard. At the same time, the temple servants always treat everyone calmly and democratically. They never judge anyone, much less kick them out.

Guests of Damascus visit the Umayyad Mosque for a nominal fee. However, tourists are not allowed on Friday. When entering the temple, you must remove your shoes. It can be given to servants for safekeeping. True, for an additional fee. Otherwise, you should carry your shoes with you. Representatives of the fairer sex are given special black capes.

An important detail: in Syria the climate is very hot. And that is why the marble floor in the great mosque of Damascus is often literally heated to the limit. Accordingly, it is simply impossible to move on such a surface. In a word, tourists in such a situation take socks with them.

Tests

The Umayyad Mosque, the relics and shrines of which we examined, also went through a number of serious tests. Thus, some parts of the temple burned repeatedly. In addition, the building was damaged by natural disasters. Three times terrible earthquakes struck the temple. The Mongols, Ottomans and Seljuks also invaded the territory of Damascus. After such raids, the temple seemed to be completely destroyed. But despite this, the mosque was quickly restored. And the capital of Syria is still proud of this unique cultural monument.

Occupying a significant area (157 * 100 m), the mosque is divided into a three-nave prayer hall 37 m deep and a spacious courtyard. The main axis, oriented across the nave, is fixed by a dome on pylons with a three-part arch between the pylons on the courtyard side and the main mihrab located against the wall - a sacred niche decorated with decor. The two-tier arcades of the interior are approximately 15 m high and carry a flat beamed ceiling. The arches, open to the courtyard, rest on square pillars; the internal arches, slightly horseshoe-shaped and slightly pointed, rest on marble Corinthian columns, the details of which indicate their Byzantine origin. The Byzantine influence is also evidenced by the preserved ornaments in the interior decoration: the bottom of the walls was lined with marble, the upper part up to the ceiling was completely covered with mosaics on a golden background. In terms of the total area of ​​mosaic images, the mosque surpassed Byzantine examples. However, the interpretation of forms here is distinctive. The multi-columned hall, which has 19 naves and over 600 columns, is dominated by an original arcade of two tiers of self-supporting arches. The combination of a “forest of columns” visible in perspective with openwork arches, emphasized by wedge-shaped masonry of white and red stones, forms a rich and colorful pattern in space, imbued with a complex ornamental rhythm. At the same time, the proportionate construction of the arcade in plan and height is subject to strict logic. The main nave and individual under-dome cells are highlighted. The interiors under the domes, accentuated by the decor, are decorated with a complex system of intersecting arches - semi-circular, three and five-lobed.

The mosque contains a treasury which is said to contain the head of John the Baptist (Yahya), revered as a prophet by both Christians and Muslims. The head may have been found during excavations during the construction of the mosque. The mosque also contains the tomb of Salah ad-Din, located in a small garden adjacent to the northern wall of the mosque. The Great Umayyad Mosque in Damascus can accommodate 10 thousand worshipers inside and 20 thousand people in the courtyard.

Muslim worship, which consists of common prayer and reading the Koran, is limited to the church set. In the prayer hall, next to the mihrab, a minbar was erected - an elevation for the preacher. Usually the minbar looks like a very high chair on a pedestal with a steep ladder and is lined with carved wooden panels. The floor on which Muslims sat was covered with a carpet. And old massive Korans were placed on wooden, beautifully decorated stands.

An example of this kind of architectural monument are some of the famous mosques: Qubbat al-Sakhra or the “Dome of the Rock” and the Ahmed Mosque. This centric, domed building forms a circle in plan, surrounded by two octagonal arcades. Or the Umayyad mosque created in 705-715 in Damascus, the capital of Syria.

"Dome of the Rock"

Next to the mosque there are minarets, which are a tall, thin, circular tower with a balcony. In different centers and in different historical periods, unique types of minarets are created, differing in size, proportions and compositions. The practical significance of the minaret lies in the public call of the faithful to prayer, which is performed by a special employee at the mosque - the muezzin. He climbed the stairs enclosed within the tower.


Mosques with their minarets are a striking distinctive feature of Arab architecture and the entire Muslim world. They fascinate with their size and beauty of the arches, with their ornaments and mosaics. However, no less beautiful are the palaces intended for the ruler’s rest, as well as for personal receptions.

The main techniques in the field of Arab architecture are the presence of a courtyard principle of organizing a building plan with galleries along the perimeter of the courtyard, flat coverings and roofs, and in centric rooms - specific elevated outlines with a slightly pointed dome.

Israel. The Mosque of the Rock in Jerusalem, one of the most important shrines of Islam, is located on a site that had great religious significance long before the rise of Islam.

The Dome of the Rock mosque was built between 688 and 692. It is the oldest surviving Muslim building in the world, although it is called "non-Muslim" because its form is influenced by early Christian architecture. The Mosque of the Rock is not only the third holiest shrine in Islam, but also the most magnificent architectural monument in the Middle East. And indeed, the mosque, erected above the rock, is like a dome covering this sacred place.


It is said that the mosque's dome was originally made of gold, but historical documents say that the dome was covered with a lead roof and the outer surface with sheets of gilded copper. The lead roof remained until 1964, when, during renovations to the mosque, the dome was covered with aluminum sheets that were chemically given the color of gold. Its diameter is 20 meters, and the height of the dome is 34 meters; it is clearly visible from almost all points of Jerusalem. The dome is located on a base supported by stone columns.

The outer walls of the mosque are octagonal and made with arcades. They were originally covered with glass mosaics, but in the 16th century they were replaced with Muslim-style tiles. Inside, the mosque is divided into three circles by two rows of columns, which allows pilgrims in whole processions to move freely around the rock located in the center. Under the stone there is a cave, into which eleven steps lead. And in the ceiling of the cave there is a hole through which the blood of sacrificial animals flowed.

The Rock Mosque has four doors oriented to the four cardinal points. The northern entrance is called the Gate of Paradise, the eastern one is called the Gate of David. The southern entrance is considered the central one, and opposite it stands the facade of another mosque - Al-Aqsa. Inside the Rock Mosque there is an amazing mosaic with patterns that are clearly influenced by Byzantine art. Its walls are decorated with ornaments with inscriptions - an indispensable decorative element of Islamic painting. One of the inscriptions recalls the builder of the mosque - Caliph Abdul al-Malik from the Umayyad dynasty. A later caliph from the Abbasid dynasty took credit for the construction of the mosque and changed the inscription.

Citadel.

Construction of the citadel began in 1076. At that time, the citadel was the residence of the ruler, where his chambers, barracks, guards, warehouses, mint, prison, mosque and family graves were located. Only twice a year, on great religious holidays, the ruler left the fortress steppes to visit the main shrine of the city - the Umayyad mosque.
The citadel acquired its current appearance in the 13th century, when it was strengthened by Sultan Malik Adil, the brother of Salah ad-Din. It took 12 years to strengthen and rebuild the citadel. But everything was destroyed during the Mongol invasion in 1260.

Under Sultan Baybars, the fortress was revived, but in 1400, during the invasion of Tamerlane, it was again badly damaged.
It has not been restored since then. Until 1985, there was a prison here. In recent years, restoration work and excavations have been carried out here.
Located next to the citadel and the entrance to the covered market monument to Saladin- the legendary sultan who began a victorious war with the crusaders.
Next to the citadel and the monument is the entrance to the Old Town and the famous Hamidiya market (Souk al-Hamidiya).


Hamidiya market. Morning.


Hamidiya market. Evening.

Once there was a city gate, Bab al-Nasr (Victory Gate), but it was dismantled in 1864. The market is named after the Ottoman Sultan Abdul Hamid II, under whom the market was covered with an iron roof in 1885. This place has been a trading place since ancient times.


Bakdash Ice Cream.Damascus. Syria.
Don't pass by Bakdash Ice Cream- This is one of the most famous ice cream shops in Syria, the shop-cafe was opened in Hamidiya in 1885. Thick and elastic ice cream is made from powder of dried orchid tubers and mastic tree resins, sprinkled with pistachios on top. The ice cream is so thick that the ice cream makers constantly knead the ice cream, beating out a rhythm.

At the end of the market street, 12-meter columns rise, supporting a fragment of the pediment - this is what remains of Ancient Roman Temple of Jupiter, built in the 3rd century.

Temple of Jupiter. Damascus. Syria.

Umayyad Mosque considered one of the most famous mosques in the world.


The outer walls of the marking were lined with houses, which the Ottoman authorities began to demolish. However, when the Turks left, the owners of the houses returned and rebuilt. In the 80s The mosque was again cleared away from the houses and a small square was built.


In the square in front of the Umayyad Mosque. Damascus.

The wall surrounding the mosque is very old. Temples have been built here since ancient times.


Wall around the Umayyad Mosque.

First, the Arameans erected a sanctuary to their god Hadad, then the Romans - a temple to Jupiter of Damascus, in the 4th century. Byzantine Emperor Theodosius erected the Basilica of St. Zacharias, in 635 the temple was divided into two parts - Christian and Muslim.
In 708, Caliph Walid, wanting to build in Damascus a mosque worthy of his dynasty was confiscated by St. John's Cathedral, in which Muslims and Christians had prayed side by side for 70 years - some in the western half, others in the eastern.
Talented architects and artisans from all over the country were involved in the construction of the mosque, and the best materials were used. The Umayyad Mosque was supposed to personify the glory and power of the Arab state and amaze with the luxury and beauty of its decoration.


The northern minaret or minaret of the Bride dates back to 705, but its upper part was completed later. The southeastern minaret of Isa, i.e. Jesus was erected in 1347 on the ruins of the tower of the Temple of Jupiter. According to legend, Jesus Christ will descend to earth through this minaret on the eve of the Last Judgment. The southwestern minaret of Muhammad was also built on the site of an ancient tower before the 12th century.
The mosque suffered from major fires 11 times, the last of which was in 1893. Each time the mosque was restored.

The entrance for tourists is on the left side. Here you can buy a ticket (50 SP), women receive dark capes (bare shoulders, arms and head are not allowed). When entering the mosque, both women and men must remove their shoes.

An elegant structure on eight columns - Qubbat al-Khazna- a treasury into which there is no access directly from the ground (787) Once in one of the treasuries the theft of government money stored there “under the protection of Allah” was committed, since then they began to build treasuries without entry from the ground.


In the center of the yard - Qubbat an-Nofara- a fountain for ablutions with a pool (1200; dome - 18th century).


The walls of the mosque are decorated with faience tiles and mosaics (VIII-XIII centuries). The prayer hall has 22 doors, two rows of Corinthian columns divide the hall into three naves.



In the wall of the hall there are richly decorated niches called "mihrab". Initially, the mihrab was a place of honor for the caliph; later it began to simply designate the qibla - the direction towards Mecca, where the faces of those praying should be turned.


Umayyad Mosque. Mihrab. Damascus. Syria.


The Umayyads entered the mosques minbars- pulpits for reading the Koran and delivering sermons. A tall minbar with a staircase is usually located to the left of the mihrab.
In the prayer hall there is cancer of St. John the Baptist.


Umayyad Mosque. Shrine of St. John the Baptist.

Here lies the head of the saint, which, according to legend, was found in 705 in one of the underground crypts during the reconstruction of the basilica into a mosque. If you believe the legend, Caliph Walid wanted to remove this shrine and even began to dig up the head himself, but when he touched the skull, he became numb; believing in a miracle, the Caliph decided to leave the Christian relic in place. This place is equally revered by both Christians and Muslims. Saint John the Baptist in the Muslim tradition is the prophet Yahya.


Nearby are a Byzantine well and font.
In the portico of the eastern wall there is a sanctuary where he rests Hussein's head- son of the fourth “righteous caliph” Ali. This is a place of pilgrimage for Shiites. There are two trash cans inside the room; in one is the head of Hussein, killed by Umayyad soldiers in 680 at the Battle of Karbala (Iraq), in the second is a strand of the Prophet’s hair.



In the same courtyard where the entrance for tourists is located Mausoleum of Salah ad-Din- the legendary Arab sultan, the commander who began a victorious war with the crusading knights, whom Europeans called Saladin.

Open 9.00-16.00 seven days a week


Saladin, Salah ad-Din Yusuf Ibn Ayyub (in Arabic Salah ad-Din means "Honor of the Faith"), the first Sultan of Egypt from the Ayyubid dynasty. Born in Tekrit in 1138 (modern Iraq). By origin, Saladin was an Armenian Kurd. His father Ayyub ibn Shadi and uncle Asad ad-Din Shirkukh, sons of Shadi Ajdanakan, were military leaders in the army of Zengi.
In 1139, Ayyub received control of Baalbek from Zengi, and in 1146, after his death, he supported Zengi’s second son, the future unifier of Syria, Nur ad-Din, and helped him conquer Aleppo. Thus, Saladin was brought up at the Aleppo court, he received an education in the best traditions of Muslim culture.
His career can be divided into three periods: the conquest of Egypt (1164 - 1174), the annexation of Syria and Mesopotamia (1174 - 1186), the conquest of the Kingdom of Jerusalem and other campaigns against Christians (1187 - 1192).
The conquest of Egypt was necessary for Nur ad-Din. Egypt threatened his power from the south and was a stronghold of heretical caliphs.
In 1164, Nur ad-Din decided to send a corps to Egypt to help the Fatimid state repel the Crusader invasion. The corps was led by Shirkuh, with whom his brother Ayyub and his son Salah ad-Din went. After several years spent in battle, Shirkuh became vizier under the Fatimid caliph, but he died suddenly in 1169. He was succeeded by Saladin.
After the Fatimid caliph Adid died in 1171 and Nur ad-Din in 1174, power over Egypt and Syria was concentrated in the hands of Saladin.
Saladin founded his Ayyubid dynasty. He restored the Sunni faith in Egypt in 1171. And in 1174 he entered Damascus, took Hams and Hama, and in 1175 captured Baalbek and the cities surrounding Aleppo.
Saladin owed his success primarily to his well-trained regular army of Turkish slaves (Mamluks), consisting of horse archers and horse spearmen.
The next step was to achieve political independence.

Salah ad-Din constantly fought with the crusaders. In 1187, a decisive battle took place near Hittin between Christians and Muslims. Saladin avoided battle for a long time, firing at the crusaders with bows. Under the scorching rays of the sun, the knights roasted in their heavy armor. When they reached their limit, Salah ad-Din managed to separate the crusader cavalry from the infantry and defeated it. Few of the crusaders managed to survive or avoid capture. Even the king of the Kingdom of Jerusalem, Guido Lusignan, was captured, but was released with honors on an oath never again to raise a sword against Muslims (which he later violated). Also taken prisoner was the Grand Master of the Templar Order, Raynald of Chatillon, whom Saladin personally executed.
After the Battle of Hittin, Saladin's victories followed one after another, including Saladin capturing Jerusalem and performing a ritual of its purification, while showing magnanimity towards Christians. The townspeople were released for a ransom; those who could not pay the ransom were enslaved.
This turn of events puzzled Christian Europe.
Another crusade took place, one of the leaders of which was the King of England, Richard I the Lionheart. King Philip II Augustus of France and German Emperor Frederick I also took part in the campaign. Richard the Lionheart recaptured some of the cities and fortresses from Saladin. Among them was Acre, when the Muslim garrison capitulated without Saladin's permission. Richard I put 2,000 hostages to death. Salah ad-Din was upset by the severity of the enemy; in such cases, he himself gave captives into slavery.
But this did not stop him from arranging the marriage of his younger brother and sister Richard I, after which a peace was concluded in November 1192, under the terms of which the interior of Syria was recognized as Muslim with the right of unhindered passage for Christian pilgrims, and Palestine was divided approximately equally.
History has confirmed that this was a wise move on the part of Salah ad-Din, which allowed the Arabs to gain a foothold in the conquered territories and prepare for a further attack on the possessions of the crusaders.
Salah ad-Din died in March 1193 of fever at the age of 55. He was buried in Damascus and mourned throughout the East.
His grave is one of the places revered by Muslims. He became famous as an outstanding commander and defender of Islam, as a patron of education, who founded schools and seminaries in Egypt and Syria.


Streets of Old Damascus.


Streets of Old Damascus.