Shumava National Park. Traveling around Shumava. Where and how best to go to Šumava
It all started last year when our friends, a company from Novokuznetsk, booked a tour that included a visit to the beer festival in Munich (Oktoberfest).
At first, we naively planned to spend a couple of days in Munich and live days full of fun, beer and everything connected with this festival. But when preparing for this tour, I found out that staying in Bavaria during this period would result in a tidy amount of money for the children ... It was not possible to find housing cheaper than a hundred euros per bed. And if you take into account that beer during this period costs 8-9 euros per liter, then “a few days” had to be reduced to one, and without spending the night in Germany.
From Prague airport we immediately headed for the western borders of the Czech Republic. The plans were to get closer to Germany as close as possible, spend the night there (the boarding house was prudently booked for a price ten times lower than Munich) and go to Munich early in the morning to watch the opening of the festival, have a beer, feel the holiday atmosphere and return to the Czech Republic in the evening .
Lunch time we were caught near the brewer Chodovar and I decided that lovers of the Czech Republic and Beer would be pleased to visit the colorful rock restaurant in the town of Chodová Planá.
We had a great dinner, appreciated the beer, chatted about the local legend associated with the ancient brewer and went further west ...
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We spent the night in the town of Primda, in a home-type guesthouse. Before going to bed, the guys enjoyed the calm atmosphere of a tiny restaurant, again drank another beer and ate mushroom soup. I still managed to go through the nearby forest before sunset and even found a dozen excellent mushrooms. Weather slightly pleased, drizzle the smallest rain.
In the morning, having breakfast in a rural way, we hit the road. The closer we got closer to Munich, the more welcoming the weather became.
The place from which everything will “flow” was not difficult to find. From everywhere and in one direction there were people dressed in national costumes. It was harder to find a parking place for the car - the start of the festival was surrounded by a wide parking ban zone. We found a place, parked the car and, following the group in national costumes, successfully reached the object we needed.
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I wanted to quickly join the wave of the holiday, eat something tasty and naturally drink beer .... But there it was. Beautiful pavilions with brand names, flags and ribbons were not available to us. They didn’t let them go there without a ticket, but they didn’t let them go, so anyway there were no seats there. People sat tight in the pavilions, drinking the coveted beer. The buzz was like in a huge hive.
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I didn’t want to stand and wait for a place to be vacated somewhere, especially since we needed at least five places. We wandered along the paths of the park, came across groups of other passers-by and tried to find a place where they would pour us ... beer. The crowd was gathering at the passage, fenced with a colorful ribbon. It looks like a procession will pass along this passage. Again, to stand and wait, we had neither the desire nor the time. Peppy music sounded and along the aisle went-rode decorated carts that we could only see at the top of a thousand heads .... The mood somehow wilted. I couldn’t drink beer anywhere, I wanted to eat. Walking between the inaccessible pavilions, we began to move back to the place from where we came, chewing bread, bought with a kiosk, with sausage. There, finally, in one of the pavilions we were poured beer and now, with a clear conscience, we could say that we were at Oktovberfest and drank beer there. Empty decorated carts pulled by richly cleared horses passed by.
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It was, obviously, not our holiday. I wanted to go to the Czech Republic. Nobody supported my proposal to drive around Munich and see the city, and we set off again without regret.
And our path lay in the town of Zelezna Ruda.
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This town lies on the border of Bavaria - Czech Republic and the road to it ran through picturesque, mountainous and wooded places. Sumava National Park, a reserve. Zelezna Ruda resort area. In winter they ski here and in summer they just relax, walking in the woods on foot or on bicycles. Near the town there are two lakes that have arisen a long time ago due to the melting of the glacier. The lakes are called Black and Devil and they are also taken under state protection.
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The accommodation in Zelezné Rudé was reserved by me for a long time and we could quietly stay in our rooms, have dinner and drink beer, almost no worse than the Bavarian one. In the morning, our company went for a walk to the already mentioned lakes. The guys from the industrial and environmentally disadvantaged Siberian city with pleasure walked along a road surrounded by forest and breathed clean air. My passion for picking mushrooms was also passed on to my friends. Women walked along the road, and me and men, every now and then, went deep into the forest and looked for mushrooms. So we collected a couple of kilograms.
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The thought of how to preserve these trophies dearly did not leave me.
After admiring the beauties of nature, getting drunk from a spring and breathing in the invigorating air, we again hit the road along the picturesque Šumava. The next point of our trip was the town of Kasperske Hory.
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The history of this city is associated with gold mining in the Middle Ages. It was with gold mining that the construction of Kasperk was the reason.
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Today, the crumbling walls and towers located on the top of the mountain speak of the glory of the city. By the way .. Kasperk, the city lying above all the cities of the Czech Republic. It was built as a defensive object of the gold-bearing lands of the Kaspersky Mountains, by order of King Charles IV in the middle of the 14th century, at the intersection of the routes along which gold was transported (Golden Trail) and .... carps. Yes, carp fish that were bred in the state was exported from the Czech Republic and was considered a delicacy in the west. Over time, the glory of the city faded and he gradually fell into decay. Currently, the city belongs to the city of Kasperske Hora and is an interesting object for tourists.
We guys listened to an interesting story about the construction of the city, marveling at the various tricks of medieval builders. It was very interesting to see the “performance” (I can’t pick another word) as the gloomy walls of the city turned into cozy chambers. It was like in a fairy tale ... The castle workers came up with a very interesting way how to show visitors old paintings that reflect the life of the inhabitants of the city. By means of slide projections on the walls there were household items, furniture, fire in the room ..... all this was accompanied by characteristic sounds ... This must be seen. Unfortunately, photographing this know-how was not permitted ...
At the castle courtyard, the blacksmith showed visitors his art and our guys, like small children playing knights, tried on armor ....
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After viewing the city of Kasper, we again set off on the beautiful roads of Šumava.
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We headed towards the picturesque Lipno reservoir, where the friendly hostess of the apartments was waiting for us. We arrived in Lipno nad Vltava in the evening and the city met us with a charming sunset ...
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We had dinner at the restaurant. Again beer and other drinks)))) The apartments were royal. At our disposal was a whole house, comfortably furnished, warm and well equipped with everything that travelers need.
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Everyone went to their rooms to rest and I took up mushrooms. I cleaned them, cut them and put them on hot radiators .... the house was filled with a pleasant mushroom spirit.
In the morning an emergency happened .... The car was accidentally shut down .... the keys remained inside .... A little nerves, calls anywhere and the master, who arrived 150 km away, successfully opened the car. I was pleased that there were no traces left on my brand new car.
Having a hearty and tasty breakfast, our company went to the attraction called “The Road in the Crowns of the Trees” - I planned this object in preparation for the tour. . The “road” was located on a mountain, where you could walk or climb the cableway. We took advantage of the second option and “sailed” up in comfortable seats.
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The attraction was a pantus, which very gradually rose up to the tops of the trees. It was nice and easy to go. On some sections of the track, visitors were offered more complex track options - movable masonry, chains, ropes, etc. The guys, with a slight adrenaline rush, walked through complicated areas, while joking and laughing.
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The higher the track went, the more beautiful was the view around. At the very end of the road, we had a view of the entire Sumava. It was a bit cool and windy, but this could not spoil our moods. It was possible to get down from the observation deck in a faster way ..... move along the tabogan. Our men wanted to use this method right there, but alas ... the service was paid and the ticket had to be bought at the box office below (this was a clear flaw in the organizers of the attraction)
For many years this national reserve was a closed space where access to mere mortals was forbidden. Therefore, the local nature has preserved its unique beauty and purity to this day. Given such exclusivity on a pan-European scale, the Šumava National Reserve is protected as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
Just look around
The rounded hills of the Šumava National Reserve are ideal for enjoying the most beautiful views of the surrounding nature. One of the most beautiful landscapes of Šumava opens from the observation site Polednik (Meridian), from where the entire mountain range is visible, as if in the palm of your hand. In good weather, a distant panorama of the Alps is visible from the observation platforms located on the peaks of the Boubina and Yavornik mountains.
Lakes as a legacy of the glacial past
The most beautiful areas of the national reserve include its glacial lakes. Everyone who sets off on the marked route to the top of Mount Plekhi will enjoy a magnificent view of Lake Pleshnoe. Among the most popular - a trip to the largest and deepest lakes - which is difficult to access, but it is more beautiful.
Wild and unbridled land
The national reserve is home to many animals and plants on the verge of extinction. Some of them throughout the Czech Republic are real rarities, so you can meet them exclusively here. The most valuable places of the national reserve include the Boubinsky virgin forest, in which nature has been developing without interference from the outside for hundreds of years. The result is a wild and unbridled forest area, which with its intertwined roots, twisted branches and wrinkled bark fully resembles the descriptions of nature in the fairy tales of the Brothers Grimm.
Šumava, or as the Germans call it the Bohemian Forest, is the largest forest in Europe, which is located on the territory of three states - the Czech Republic, Austria and Germany. Its area is more than 90 thousand hectares.
Since 1990, the unique nature reserve has been protected by UNESCO. This place is at the same time suitable both for active pastime and provides great opportunities for family vacations.
Leisure and attractions
One of the most popular holiday destinations on the territory of Šumava is the northern shore of which is almost completely built up with hotels and pensions. In summer, not only Czechs like to come here, but also residents of neighboring Austria and Germany, so in the high season it is quite difficult to find a free room.
Lovers of outdoor activities are engaged in diving and sailing. In summer, a motor ship runs along the lake, the passengers of which take a two-hour walk through its most beautiful places. Numerous holidaymakers often drop by the picturesque town of Frymburk, located just below the reservoir.
In the summer, hiking and cycling tours are organized in the national park, and canoe and water sports enthusiasts go on trips around the Vltava, Otter and Otava. The Šumava glacial lakes with crystal clear water deserve special attention. Located high in the mountains, they do not have time to warm up even in the summer, so they often enjoy magnificent landscapes than bathe.
The surroundings of Šumava are rich not only in natural, but also in architectural sights, among which are the castles of Velgartice, Bezdekov, and also numerous ancient churches, chapels and monasteries.
At the foot of the Sumava Mountains is one of the most beautiful cities in the country - the historical center of which is included in the list of monuments protected by UNESCO.
In winter resorts, Kasperske Gori, Nove Guta and are popular. Most of the slopes are gentle, so they are the best suited for beginners and skiers of all ages.
History
Most likely, the name Sumava comes from the ancient Slavic word “šuma”, which translates as “dense forest”. The highest point of the mountain range in the Czech Republic is Mount Plehi (1378 m). By the way, several other large rivers originate from here.
The period of the development of the Šumava River, on the territory of which there are still islands of pristine nature, falls on the XII century. Until the middle of the XVII century, almost the entire territory of the reserve was covered by virgin forests, however, with the development of forestry and glass making, and as a result, the emergence of workers' settlements, their area was noticeably reduced. In addition, at one time noble metals and iron ore were mined on the territory of Šumava.
Sumava is a great option for a diverse holiday and unity with nature. If you are tired of noisy megalopolises and want to enjoy magnificent landscapes, inhale the cleanest air and travel among numerous natural attractions, while staying in cozy villages, be sure to visit this magical land.
The Šumava Nature Reserve is a mountain range covered mostly by forest, stretching 150 kilometers along the border of the Czech Republic and Germany. Since 1991, it has been a National Park adjacent to the Bavarian National Park Bavarian Forest.
Forests occupy 80% of the park, among them stands the Boubinsky virgin forest on Mount Boubin, from where the Vltava River originates.
The park has eight lakes of glacial origin with crystal clear water. These lakes lie at an altitude of 1000 - 1100 meters above sea level. The park has grassy mountain meadows that amaze with their spring bloom, and valleys overgrown with heather, and peat bogs.
For several decades, the park was hunting animals and deforestation, so only the most remote and remote corners of it were left untouched. Many species of animals were irrevocably destroyed.
The park includes, in addition to Šumava mountains, also Kaspersky mountain range. Its slopes are attractive not only for biologists studying the nature of the park, but also for geologists: there are preserved sections of glaciers. The tops of the mountains here have a special shape - they are not peaked, but rather flattened.
The park administration is actively conducting recreational activities. Cycling routes to protected places that are laid along bicycle paths, maintained in order, are known and very popular. In winter, dozens of kilometers of ski tracks are laid here, and ski resorts begin to work on the mountain peaks. More recently, an equestrian excursion route was laid in the park.
In connection with the removal of the border regime between the Czech Republic and Germany, it became possible to travel to the most remote corners of the forest, where a man’s foot has not stepped for several decades.
In lakes of glacial origin, the water does not warm up, but you can sunbathe on the beach here: the beach is well equipped, the sand is white, and the water is crystal clear. Not far from the reserve there are interesting towns - Kaplice, Czech Budejovice, Zhelezná Orein which there are many historical sights.
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The green roof of Europe, the lungs of Europe - such “titles” deserved covered with forest Šumava beltstretching along the border of the Czech Republic with Austria and Germany. Its length from the Chodsky Uglav to the Vyshebrodsky Pass is approximately 120 km, the maximum width, including the Šumava foothills, is 45 km. In fact, the region consists of two mountain systems - Šumava and the Czech Forest. Deep forests, somewhat ominous peat bogs, the dark expanse of glacial lakes and the remnants of virgin forests form the core of the Šumava National Park. Sumava - these are hundreds of kilometers of marked tourist trails on the mountain slopes and in river valleys. This is endless space for observing animals and birds, for picking mushrooms and berries. The promised land for tourists and water sportsmen, lovers of surfing and yachts. A lot of opportunities for weekends and holidays on foothill agritourism farms, horseback riding or dog sledding tours. Long skiing and lively ski centers.
The main European watershed of the Black and North Sea basins runs along the Šumava ridge. On the Bavarian and Austrian sides, the mountain slopes are significantly reduced, on the Czech side - quite smoothly. On a wide mountain plateau, ridges of the main peaks stand out.
The highest peak of the Sumava - the city of Big Yavor (1456 m above sea level) - is located on the Bavarian border side. The highest level on the Czech side is reached by Mount Pleki (1378 m above sea level). Šumava is divided into six constituent territories: Zheleznodrudsky hills, Šumava plains, Boubinsky hills, Troimezny hills, Zhelnava hills and Vltavitsky Val.
People do not cease to be amazed to see how green begins to break out of dead trees. However, the Mountain Service is not so enthusiastic. Its employees are of the opinion that in a few years, dead trees will begin to fall on their own, which poses a considerable threat to the guests of the forest. For this reason, all visitors to the Šumava forests must strictly adhere to the marked paths and not seek to climb into the thicket.
On the territory of Šumava, several unicates are kept. For example, Black Lake is not only the largest (18.4 ha), but also the deepest (40.6 m) and highly located (1008 m above sea level) lake on the Czech side of Šumava. The Lake Wall rises 320 m above its surface, and much lower than its level, on the nearby Uglava River, arose in 1929-30. The first pumped storage power plant in the Czech Republic.
You can talk about the colonization of the Šumava starting around the 12th century. The entire territory until the mid-18th century was covered by the untouched virgin forests and dense forests, among which the vibrant Golden Stitch has been making its way since the 11th century. The borders of the Czech kingdom were protected by two groups of local residents - “moves” from the side of Chodsk and “Kralovaki” in the territory of the Royal Forest. Both "squads" enjoyed one major privilege - freedom and independence in relation to local feudal lords. Original villages with colorful architecture have remained behind, and the Kralovaks are Kralovka manors, of which the village deserves the most attention. Antigl.
Starting in the middle of the 17th century, the colonization associated with the development of glassmaking, forestry, and mountain pasture cattle breeding brought a fundamental influence on the formation of modern ecosystems of the Šumava River. The area of \u200b\u200bvirgin forests was noticeably reduced and new villages of lumberjacks and glassmakers grew, which gradually gained tourist significance from the 20th century.
The nature of the Šumava landscapes is emphasized by historical monuments. The towns of Kasperk, Velgartice, Wimperk or the Celtic hillfort Obří Grad provide reliable documents on the population of these territories. Two technical monuments deserve attention: the navigable canals of the Schwarzenberg and Vkhinitsko-Tetovsky, as well as the hydroelectric power station on the Chenkovy Saw. Church monuments adequately represent the numerous chapels, boundary pillars, crosses, monuments and pilgrimage sites.
The tourist region of Sumava is represented by two regions - Sumava East and Chodsk. It is unlikely that you will find the best arena for hiking in the Czech Republic. But the number of bike paths that run along the former military field communications in the former border strip and are increasingly connecting with the bike paths of the Bavarian Forest is growing very rapidly. Fans of canoeing and water tourism tend to the upper reaches of the Vltava and Otava, and water sports adherents go to the Lipno and Graholuski reservoirs. The Lipno sports and entertainment park was created on Lipno, offering visitors a berth for 144 yachts, a sports hall with tennis, squash and bowling courts, an indoor pool with a subtropical microclimate, as well as a cable car to Kramolin.
Speaking of winter sports, the most popular means of transportation in Šumava are racing skis, but skiers can also have fun in the winter centers of Zadov, Khuranyov, Zhelezna Ruda, Shpichak, Nove Guta and Kvidla.
