The highest point of Mount Elbrus. Elbrus - the highest mountain in Russia (20 photos)

The two peaks crowning the cone-shaped volcano are separated by a saddle, the height of which is 5300 m. The peaks of Elbrus are two independent volcanoes formed on an ancient volcanic base. The height of the young cone, located in the east, is 5621 m. This volcano has retained its classic cone-shaped shape with a clearly defined crater. The height of the maximum point of Elbrus - the western peak - reaches 5642 m. This volcano has a fairly ancient history, which is reflected in the condition of its upper part - it is partially destroyed by a vertical fault.

Elbrus is a saddle-shaped cone of a volcano that was last active in 50 AD. e. It was most active around 225 thousand, then 110-70 thousand and less than 30 thousand years ago. The mountain, formed about a million years ago, consists of alternating layers of lava, ash and tuff.
The slopes of Elbrus are mostly gentle, but starting from a height of 4000 meters, the average angle of inclination reaches 35 degrees. The northern and western slopes are strewn with steep rocky areas up to 700 meters high. The eastern and southern ones are more gentle and even.

Flowers on the southern slope of Elbrus:

At an altitude of more than 3,500 meters, the volcano is covered with stone placers, rocks and glaciers. The number of the latter is about 70 pieces, and their total area is 134.5 km². The most famous glaciers of Elbrus: Terskop, Big and Small Azau. The streams erupting from them, connecting, create the three main rivers of the region - Baksanu, Kuban and Malka. The glacier-free surface is covered with moraines. A huge cap of ice and snow retains the picturesque shape of the Kazakhstan volcano all year round. It is because of this snow cap that Elbrus is called Little Antarctica.

The first written mention of the double-peaked volcano can be found in the “Book of Victories,” written by the Persian historian and poet, Sharaf ad-Din Yazdi. It tells about the Central Asian conqueror Tamerlane, who during his military campaigns climbed to the top of Elbrus to pray.

The peoples of the Caucasus and the Middle East composed a large number of songs and legends about Elbrus. One of the legends tells that the mountain used to have one hump. At its top lived the magical bird Simurg, who bestowed happiness and prosperity on the mountain people who inhabited the valleys of the mountain gorges. This idyll lasted for many centuries, until the desire to seize the bird’s heavenly throne led to its possession by two greedy people. Their fierce struggle was stopped by higher powers: blinding lightning cut the sky, terrible thunder erupted and Elbrus split in two, spewing out streams of fire that incinerated everything in its path. After such a terrible fight, the magical bird Simurgh hid deep underground, upset by the ingratitude and greed of people.
According to research by scientists, Elbrus has not been visible for quite a long time, but despite this, the current level of activity does not give experts a reason to classify it as an extinct volcano; now it has the status of “dormant”. The volcano is indeed quite active in external and internal activities. In its depths there are still hot masses that heat the local “Hot Narzans” - springs saturated with mineral salts and carbon dioxide, the temperature of which reaches +52°C and +60ºC. In the depths of the volcano, life begins for many famous springs in the healing resorts of Kislovodsk, Pyatigorsk and the entire Caucasian Mineral Waters region.
The climate on Elbrus is characterized by severity, making it similar to the Arctic regions. The average temperature in the warmest month of the year does not rise above -1.4°C. There is quite a lot of precipitation here, but it is mainly represented only in the form of snow.
Around the two-headed giant are located the most beautiful peaks of the Caucasus: Nakra-Tau, Ushba, Donguz-Orun.
The first time a person managed to reach the eastern (lower) peak of the volcano was on July 22, 1829. This was done by the conductor of the Russian scientific expedition, a Kabardian by nationality, Kilar Khashirov. The highest peak of Elbrus (western) was conquered by a team of climbers led by Florence Grove in 1874. The first to reach both peaks was the Balkar hunter and shepherd Ahiya Sottaev. During the period of his long life, he conquered Elbrus nine times: he made the first ascent at the age of over forty, and the last in 1909, when he was 121 years old.

At the top of Elbrus:

View from the top of Elbrus:

The study of Elbrus by Russian scientists began actively in the 19th century. Academician V.K. Vishnevsky in 1913 was the first to determine the height and location of the volcano. In addition to its status as a unique natural attraction, the famous Caucasian peak is also an important scientific base. Even before the war, the first experiments with cosmic rays in the Soviet Union were conducted here, and today it houses the highest geophysical laboratory.
The Elbrus region is a major center of tourism and skiing. The bulk of the guests are fans of winter sports, including extreme sports, which are very popular in these mountains. In addition to the usual snowboards, sleds and freeride, a new entertainment was organized for thrill seekers, which was an ascent to the top of Elbrus by helicopter and subsequent descent from the mountain on skis. For more conservative skiers, there are cable cars with an average capacity of 2,400 people per hour.

Mount Elbrus is the highest peak in Europe and Russia in particular. It is included in the catalog of the seven tallest objects on planet Earth. But this is not the only characteristic of this point in the Caucasus Mountains. It is a stratovolcano or, in other words, a layered volcano, which is formed by multi-layered solidification of lava, ash and tephra.

Such peaks are characterized by high altitude and steep slopes. This is due to the properties of lava masses, which have a viscous and thick consistency. And eruptions from stratovolcanoes are explosive in nature, while the lava quickly hardens and does not spread over long distances over the terrain.

Height of Mount Elbrus

This volcano has two peaks with different heights. The western one is 5642 m, and the eastern one is slightly lower - 5621 m. The distance between them is 3 km, and if measured along the mountainside - 5200 meters. On this saddle between the peaks of the volcano, the highest alpine shelter in Europe was built for climbers and lovers of conquering peaks. And there are more than enough people willing to climb to such a height, starting with the first ascent to the eastern peak on July 22, 1829 by Hilar Khachirov. This is a local guide, a resident of Kabardino-Balkaria, who knows these places well. The western peak was conquered a little later, in 1874, by English climbers F. Grove, F. Gardner, H. Walker, P. Knubel and local guide A. Sottaev. After this, thousands of people from all over the world try to climb to the height of Mount Elbrus, coming to the Elbrus region every year.

Controversial issues

Often on the pages of the World Wide Web you can see controversial dialogues about Elbrus, where it is located, in what country. The mountain is located on the border of several territorial units, although most of it is still located on the territory of the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic, which occupies the northern slope of the Caucasus Mountains.

But the mountain itself is located at the junction of Kabardino-Balkaria and the Karachay-Cherkess Republic, its image is on the coats of arms of both of these regions. However, North Ossetia, Georgia, and the Stavropol Territory are very close. Therefore, in the Elbrus region there is a whole complex of resorts belonging to different republics of Russia and Georgia.

Also, disputes on the issue of Elbrus (where it is located, in which country) are also being conducted by geographers who cannot agree on a common opinion. Doubts are raised by assumptions that this volcano is located in Europe. Some argue that this is already the territory of Asia. The border between the continents runs right through the middle of the Main Caucasus Range.

Mountain name

Depending on the location of Elbrus (where it is located, in what country), local residents call the volcano differently. In Iran it is called Aitibares, which means "sparkling or brilliant." This name is very consistent with the appearance of the peak, when the eternal snow reflects the bright rays of the sun.

In Georgia they call the mountain Yalbuz, which translated means: yal - “storm”, buz - “ice”. Apparently, the inhabitants of this country have repeatedly witnessed the raging elements on the slopes of the mountain.

The Armenian name is closely phonetically related to the Georgian version. Sounds like Alberis. Many believe that this name comes from the word Alps.

The name of the mountain, invented by the Alans, sounds very beautiful. These are residents of Karachaevo-Balkaria. "Mingi-Tau" is translated as "eternal mountain of consciousness and wisdom."

The name of the volcano, known throughout the world - Elbrus - also has local origin. Consists of several words. “El” is translated as a settlement or nationality, but “bur” is a word familiar to Russian-speaking people, meaning to twist, turn back. The last part of the word “us” is translated as disposition, behavior.

Based on the meaning of the word Elbrus (where it is located, in what country, we found out), the name was invented, you can understand the character and properties of this famous volcano, which in sunny weather reflects the sun's rays with a bright brilliance, and in bad weather threatens travelers with a strong snowstorm spinning in the wind freezing rain and snow. Climbers who want to conquer the peak always remember the dangers of such a hike.

Glaciers of the Caucasus Mountains

Elbrus last erupted more than two thousand years ago. Since then, the temperature at the top has always been very low, which even in the summer heat does not rise above 0 degrees. The glaciers that cover the mountain cover 134.5 km, which is 10% of all such formations in the Caucasus Mountains. There are only 23 glaciers on Elbrus.

The largest and most famous are Big and Small Azau, Irik, Kokurtly, which occupy vast areas of valleys and slopes. But there are also very picturesque ice ones hanging from cliffs. These are blocks of glaciers such as Kogutai, Terskol, Garabashi. There is especially a lot of eternal ice located on the northern slope of Mount Elbrus at an altitude of 3850 meters.

The water formed after the melting and fall of these ice accumulations fills the river flows of the mountain rivers of the Stavropol region, such as the Kuban, Malku and Baksan.

Climate on the mountain

The mountain range always has changeable weather. Likewise, in Kabardino-Balkaria, Elbrus is characterized by a frequent change of good warm weather to bad weather, with precipitation and winds. This is due to the mountainous terrain, which forms the circulation of air masses according to the seasons.

Summer in the Elbrus region is cool, with high humidity. There is no good weather to be seen for more than a week. The thermometer showed a maximum of + 35 degrees at an altitude of 2 km, even higher, at around 3 km, and even less, a maximum of + 25.

After this mark, winter weather begins in October. There is a lot of precipitation. The height of the snow cover on average reaches 50-80 cm. The higher you go to the top, the deeper the snow. More snow covers are located on the north side. The south cannot boast of snow thickness.

Spring comes to the territory of Elbrus only in early May. The peak is covered with snow all year round. Due to them, the mass of ice in glaciers is constantly growing.

Winter lasts a long time, and at an altitude of 3 km the temperature drops to -12 degrees, the lowest temperature recorded at this point was -27 degrees.

Ski resort

The largest ski complex "Elbrus Azau" was built in 1969 on the Azau clearing, which is located at the foot of the majestic mountain. For the convenience of skiers, there are two cable cars: the old pendulum with 20-seat cabins and the new gondola, which takes 8 people on board. Lift tickets can be purchased either one-time or for the whole day. They also sell passes for the entire skiing period (from 2 to 8 days). The cost also varies depending on the season. One ascent costs 550 rubles, descent costs 500. The most expensive 8-day pass will cost 12,700.

Ski slopes

Elbrus has 11 slopes for skiers of all levels: from beginners to professionals. Blue trails are wider and flatter. The red and black ones are for experienced riders, but they also gradually transition into the blue, gentle slopes. A ski pass will cost from 500 to 850 rubles for one day.

Excellent recreation for children. For them there is a separate rope tow of 300 meters. An experienced instructor conducts classes for beginners, and fun competitions and competitions are often organized. There is a ski school where children will be taught all the intricacies of proper and safe descent.

Complex infrastructure

On the territory of the complex there are 38 hotels, cafes, restaurants, baths and saunas, ski equipment rental. There are shops and even a club. You can pay both in cash and by bank cards. Everything is done for the convenience of vacationers.

For mountain climbers there is an interesting complex called “Bochki”. There, climbers can acclimatize, warm up, rest after a hard climb, have a snack and sleep.

It is located at an altitude of 3750 meters, at the final station of the Garabashi chairlift. Each "barrel" is designed to accommodate 6 people. There is everything you need: toiletries, bedding, warm blankets.

How to get there?

The best and closest way to get to the mountain is from Nalchik. There is an airport there, so you can fly in from different places. Further from the city you can get to the Elbrus region by taxi or minibus No. 17. Then you also need to go to Terskol by minibus.

In your car, you need to drive from Rostov-on-Don along the M-4 highway, and before reaching Nalchik, turn onto A-158. The coordinates of Elbrus, the description of which is given in the article, on the navigator are 43°18"56"N, 42°27"42"E.

Come any time of the year. You can go skiing in the middle of summer.

Starting from an altitude of 4000 meters, the steepness of Elbrus in some places reaches 35-40 degrees. There are steep areas up to 750 meters high.

Below the glaciers along the mountain there are alpine meadows, with coniferous forests growing under them. The northern slope is more rocky.

Elbrus was formed more than a million years ago; it used to be an active volcano, and debate still rages whether it is extinct or just sleeping. The version of a dormant volcano is supported by the fact that hot masses are stored in its depths and heat thermal springs to +60 °C. In the depths of Elbrus, the famous mineral waters of the resorts of the North Caucasus - Kislovodsk, Pyatigorsk, Essentuki, Zheleznovodsk - are born and saturated. The mountain consists of alternating layers of ash, lava and tuff. The last time the giant erupted was in 50 AD. e.

The climate of the Elbrus region is mild, humidity is low, making frosts easily tolerated. But the climate of the volcano itself is harsh, similar to the Arctic. The average winter temperature is from 10 degrees below zero at the foot of the mountain, to –25 °C at the level of 2000-3000 meters, and to –40 °C at the top. Precipitation on Elbrus is frequent and abundant, mostly snow.

In summer, the air warms up to +10 °C - up to an altitude of 2500 meters, and at an altitude of 4200 meters, even in July it does not get warmer than -14 °C.

The weather is very unstable: a clear, windless day can instantly turn into snowy storms with strong winds.

The history of the conquest of Elbrus

The thought of climbing the legendary Mount Elbrus haunted many daredevils; neither the eternal snow nor the cold winds frightened them. Mountaineering in Russia began with the ascent of Elbrus. The first attempt to conquer the mountain was made in 1829 by an expedition of the Russian Academy of Sciences, but of the entire group only the guide reached the eastern peak. After 45 years, the British, accompanied by a local guide, managed to climb the western peak.

The first map of the volcano was compiled by the Russian topographer Pastukhov, who conquered Elbrus without guides.

It is known about the Balkar hunter Akhie Sattaev, who climbed the peaks of Elbrus 9 times, and he made his last ascent at the age of 121.

In Soviet times, the conquest of Elbrus became very prestigious, and mountaineering on its slopes became widespread.

Nowadays, Mount Elbrus is a Mecca for climbers, skiers and freeriders.

Alpine skiing

Elbrus is considered the most skiable mountain in the world. You can enjoy winter sports in the Elbrus region from November to May, and some trails are available all year round. There are 35 kilometers of ski slopes and 12 kilometers of cable cars across the mountains. Both experienced skiers and beginners can ski on the slopes, for whom there are specially designated easy routes and training in skiing skills is organized. The favorite places of most skiers are the slopes of Mount Cheget, which are not inferior to the slopes of ski resorts in Austria, Switzerland and France.

In the public skiing area there are three lines of pendulum lifts, chairlifts and towing roads.

Those who wish can use the services of a high-mountain taxi - snowcats, which will take you to the “Shelter of the Eleven” or to the Pastukhov Rocks (4800 meters), which offer unparalleled views of the peaks of the Caucasus Range.

The Stary Krugozor resort invites lovers of long descents to the longest route of Elbrus, 2 kilometers long and with a height difference of 650 meters.

On the southern slopes of the mountain there is the Elbrus Azau resort, the routes of which are distinguished by great freedom of movement - there are a minimum of nets and no dividers. The resort offers: rental of climbing equipment, sleds and snowmobiles, a ski school, snowcat ascent and helicopter flights.

Experienced snowboarders and skiers can ride from the eastern slope of Elbrus to the northern side of the mountain.

Freeride masters are transported by helicopter to untouched slopes, from where they race across the virgin snow at great speed.

At the foot of Elbrus, guests will find cafes, billiard rooms, and saunas. You can also have a snack at each station on the slopes of the mountain. In the village of Terskol there is a paintball area.

The ski season on the slopes of the five-thousander lasts from mid-November to April. It happens that solid snow cover remains on some routes until mid-May.

Video: Descent from the top of Europe / Expedition to Mount Elbrus

Mountaineering

Every year thousands of climbers and tourists storm the slopes of Elbrus. Thanks to the improvement of mountaineering equipment, anyone with acceptable physical fitness can visit the top of the mountain.

For those wishing to climb, routes are organized in different directions. Climbing Elbrus along the classic route from the south does not require tourists to have any special mountaineering training. People of average physical fitness can participate in this hike. Tourists can use the cable car that delivers the conquerors of Elbrus to the “Bochki” shelter, located at an altitude of 3750. Guests of the Caucasus can use the shelter’s restaurants, bars and hotels, where they can relax and refresh themselves before rushing to the top.

The northern route, following the route of the first ascent, is of the same difficulty. But, unlike the southern route, you will not encounter any shelters or a cable car along the road, which will add extreme excitement to the hike. The northern ascent will take more time, but as a reward you will receive unique views of the Caucasian nature, untouched by civilization.

The eastern ascent passes along the Akcheryakol lava flow and is accessible only to physically strong people. This route is considered the most beautiful.

The routes are designed in such a way that climbers have enough time to acclimatize.

The most favorable period for climbing is from May to October.

The cost of a ten-day tour is from 38,000 to 85,000 rubles. The price depends on the complexity of the route and the range of services provided, of which the following are obligatory: transfer from the airport of arrival and back, accommodation in a shelter or at the base, meals, instructor services. Additionally, the services of porters and cooks, equipment rental, and medical insurance may be paid for.

All participants in a successful climb are given a certificate “Conqueror of Elbrus”.

In addition to climbing and skiing, guests of the Elbrus region are offered paragliding, rock and ice climbing, mountain biking, heli-skiing, trekking, and kiteboarding. In summer, mountain biking is possible on the gentle slopes.

Attractions

A hike through the Chegem Gorge with its magnificent pine forests, rugged canyons and amazing waterfalls cascading from the cliffs will leave an indelible impression on tourists.

The picturesque Baksan Gorge originates in the glaciers of Elbrus. If you have time, be sure to stroll through its green valleys framed by mighty snow-capped peaks. The gorge has its own attractions - the “Mourning Highlander” monument and a geophysical observatory that studies the Sun. In the Narzanov Glade you will see rusty earth - it became like this due to the abundance of iron in the water of local springs. On the slopes of the mountains you can find caves with traces of ancient people living in them.

The Djily-Su tract, located on the northern slope of Elbrus, is known for its healing mineral springs. Warm waters flow directly from the rock and are collected in an artificial bath, renewed every 10 minutes. Swimming is organized according to a schedule. Local narzans have a beneficial effect on the heart, nervous system, and cure some skin diseases and allergies. In total, there are 14 springs in the tract, each of which has its own specialization: “renal”, “eye”, “liver” and others. There are stunning waterfalls in Jili-Su - the famous forty-meter giant Sultan and Karakaya-Su, 25 meters high. The Valley of Castles, Valley of Stone Mushrooms and the German Airfield located in the tract are popular among tourists.

On Mount Cheget, at an altitude of 2719 meters, there is an observation deck where, sitting in rented sun loungers, you can endlessly admire the majestic nature of the North Caucasus. Those wishing to refresh themselves are met by the cafe "Ai".

At the Mir station, in the highest mountain museum in the world - the Elbrus Defense Museum, exhibitions will tell about the dramatic events of the Great Patriotic War. There is also a monument to the warrior-defenders of the North Caucasus.

50 kilometers from Nalchik, in the valley of the Cherek-Bolkarsky River, lie the karst Blue Lakes, fed from underground springs. It is worth coming here to admire their beauty. But even professional swimmers do not risk swimming in Lake Tserik-Kel - the circular current of the reservoir creates a whirlpool from which it is impossible to get out.

Accommodation

Hotels in the Elbrus region can be divided into three categories: those built in Soviet times; small semi-luxury hotels for 20-25 people; premium class hotels - modern boarding house "Elbrus", hotels "Ozone" and "Seven Peaks".

The Elbrus recreation center awaits guests in a pine forest on the banks of a mountain river near the village of Tegenekli. Hotel "Balkaria" is located on the slopes of Elbrus at an altitude of 2300 meters. A little higher, in the village of Terskol, there are the hotels “Vershina”, “Seven Peaks”, “Antau”.

For those making the climb, shelters have been built to meet climbers on the glaciers. At an altitude of 3,750 meters, you can spend the night and gain strength in the insulated trailers of the Bochki shelter. The more comfortable Liprus shelter welcomes guests at an altitude of 3911 meters. The highest mountain hotel in Russia, “Shelter of Eleven”, is located at an altitude of 4130 meters.

Prices for accommodation in hotels in the Elbrus region range from 1,000 to 8,000 rubles per double room per day, depending on the season and the class of the hotel. As a rule, the price includes two meals a day and transfer to the ski slopes.

Inexpensive housing is offered by the private sector in the villages of the Elbrus region - Tegenekli, Elbrus and Terskol.

For tourists who want to climb to the peaks of Elbrus, both large companies with their own shelters on the slopes and single guides are available. Be careful when choosing your ascent organizer. Your safety will depend on the professionalism of your escort.

Be sure to find out in advance what clothes you will need and what items you need to take with you.

Participants in ascents of any difficulty must be prepared for the fact that on the way to the top of Elbrus you will encounter unfavorable natural factors: cold, wind, thin air, increased solar radiation, the release of sulfur dioxide gases and lack of visibility in inclement weather. You will have to carry a heavy backpack and make long treks on foot. You will spend the night in tents and cook your own food on gas burners. Soberly assess your health to avoid accidents.

It is necessary to unquestioningly follow all the instructions of the guide. All controversial issues are discussed either before the ascent or after the descent.

The organizers of the ascent have the right to stop or shorten the tour for individual participants of the ascent or the entire group in the event of:

• Violations of safety and behavior rules in the mountains;
• Excessive consumption of alcoholic beverages;
• Failure to comply with public order standards;
• Disrespectful attitude towards nature and local residents.

Tourists aged 16 to 18 must provide written permission from their parents to climb. Children over 14 years old are allowed on simple routes together with their parents.

If you go to the mountains on your own, you must register with the local branch of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and have communication sources with you - a walkie-talkie or a cell phone. It is preferable to use the services of Beeline and Megafon operators; MTS does not always provide stable communication.

All climbers must have identification documents and a medical certificate with them.

How to get there

By train or plane to the cities of Kislovodsk, Mineralnye Vody, Nalchik or Cherkessk, from where a taxi or bus will take you to the desired location in the Elbrus region. If you arrive as part of an organized group, you will be provided with a transfer.

Mount Elbrus is the highest mountain peak in the Russian Federation. Its height is 5642m. It is located on the territories of two republics: Karachay-Cherkess and Kabardino-Balkaria.

Elbrus is a layered volcano, dormant, has a conical shape and is composed of a large number of layers, hardened lava and ash. The last eruption on Elbrus was more than 1500 years ago. Modern scientists debate whether the mountain is an active volcano or an extinct one.

At the top and near the mountain there are glaciers, 23 of them. The most famous: Irik, Bolshoi Azau. There are also glaciers on the mountain that form avalanches of ice, Terskol, for example. When melting, the purest glacial water flows from Elbrus and feeds rivers such as the Kuban, Baksan, etc. Due to climate change, glaciers are gradually disappearing.

The weather near the mountain is very changeable and unstable. During the day it can change several times, from sunny to rainy, a stormy wind suddenly appears, and suddenly subsides to complete calm. Winter is harsh and frosty, with heavy snow and blizzards. At the foot of the mountain the average winter temperature is -10 0 C÷-25 0 C. At the top it is below -35 0 C. In summer the air heats up slightly above +15 0 C. Climbers and tourists should not forget about this variability when climbing.

Elbrus has attracted amateurs and athletes since ancient times. The first ascent of the mountain was at the beginning of the 19th century. Climbers compete in skill and professionalism, conquering Elbrus, receiving a master of sports and a world-class specialist. Numerous timed climbing competitions are held, so numerous devices, cable cars, etc. have been built on its slopes.

The area around Elbrus is very diverse. Here you can see: gorges, accumulations of large stones, glaciers, streams with melt water, waterfalls formed by these streams. At an altitude of more than 3000 m, glacial deposits and lakes of ice open up to the eye.

The flora of Elbrus is very diverse and has more than 3,000 varieties. Mint, sea buckthorn, coltsfoot, etc. grow here. Among the animals you can find mountain goat, raccoon dog, wild boar, jackal, roe deer, lynx, fox, wolf, squirrel and bear. The sky has been mastered by such birds as the eagle, vulture, kite, golden eagle, balaban, etc.

Option 2

Mount Elbrus is located in the Caucasus, in the past it was an active volcano, now it is listed as one of the largest extinct volcanoes. The last volcanic eruption was recorded about 2000 years ago.

Elbrus is also called “double-headed”, because it has two peaks that are completely covered with centuries-old glaciers. The area of ​​the glacial part is 139 square kilometers. The eastern part of the mountain has a height of 5,621 meters, the western part is 5,642 meters. When glaciers melt, very powerful streams are formed, which flow down with rapid force, filling with their waters the most important rivers that are located in that region: Kuban, Baksan and Malku. Thanks to the melting of glaciers, the mountain supplies water to almost the entire part of the North Caucasus.

The study of Elbrus began in the 19th century by Russian researchers. The first expedition set out to study it in 1829. The slopes of the mountain are considered the highest in all of Russia; they are the favorite places for athletes. Many athletes dream of conquering the summit of Elbrus. The middle of the mountain can be reached by cable car.

At an altitude of about 3,600 meters there is a very unusual hotel called Bochki.” The houses of this hotel are completely reminiscent of barrels, only larger. The hotel was specially built at this altitude so that tourists could bide their time, because the human body necessarily needs a little adaptation to the high-mountain climate, because at high altitudes in the mountains the percentage of oxygen in the air is very small than below.

At high altitudes, a person needs to breathe more often, taking in deeper air. Further, when climbing up after 510 meters, there is the next hotel, called “Shelter of the Eleven”. It is called so because many years ago eleven conquerors of the mountain made a halt there, they really liked this place that they soon built a small hut there, and over time they built a wonderful hotel on this place, for the same conquerors of this wonderful mountains. In the Shelter of the Eleven, climbers gain strength to further conquer heights. After all, you can’t be unprepared; in order to get to the very top, you need to train long and very hard before the very first climb, and always remember the technique of bladeless behavior on the mountain. All the difficulties that a traveler experiences when climbing Elbrus are completely justified.

2, 4, 8 grade

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Geographical description

Name

Infrastructure

Climbing history

Elbrus(Karach-Balk. Mingi Tau) - a mountain in the Caucasus, on the border of the republics of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia. Elbrus is located north of the Main Caucasus Range and is the highest peak in Russia. Considering that the boundaries of the European part of the world are ambiguous, Elbrus is often also called the highest European mountain peak.

Geographical description

Elbrus is a double-peaked volcanic cone. The Western peak has a height of 5642 m, the Eastern one - 5621 m. They are separated by a saddle - 5200 m and are approximately 3 km apart from each other. The last eruption dates back to 50 AD. e. ± 50 years.

According to the mountaineering classification, Elbrus is rated as 2A snow-ice, the passage of both peaks is 2B. There are other, more difficult routes, for example Elbrus (W) along the NW edge 3A.

Name

According to one version, the name Elbrus comes from the Iranian Aitibares - “high Mountain”, more likely - the Iranian “sparkling, brilliant” (like Elburs in Iran). The Georgian name Yalbuz is from the Turkic yal - “storm” and buz - “ice”. The Armenian Alberis is probably a phonetic version of the Georgian name, but the possibility of a connection with the pan-Indo-European basis to which the toponym “Alps” goes back is not excluded.

Other names:

• Mingi Tau - eternal mountain (Karachay-Balkar).
• Elburus - wind guide (Nogai).
• Askhartau - snowy mountain of the Ases (Kumyk).
• Jin Padishah - king of mountain spirits (Turkic).
• Albar (Albors) - tall; high mountain (Iranian).
• Yalbuz - mane of snow (Georgian).
• Oshkhamakho - mountain of happiness (Kabardian).
• Uryushglyumos - mountain of the day.
• Kuskamaf is a mountain that brings happiness.
• Shat, Shat-mountain - Old Russian name (from Karach.-Balk. chat, chat- ledge, hollow, that is "mountain with a hollow")

Gorges

The gorges of Adylsu, Shkheldy, Adyrsu, the Donguz-Orun and Ushba massifs are very popular among climbers and mountain tourists. Elbrus region is the most popular ski resort in Russia.

Glaciers

The total area of ​​Elbrus glaciers is 134.5 km²; the most famous of them: Big and Small Azau, Terskol.

Infrastructure

Mainly concentrated on the southern slopes, where the pendulum and chairlift are located. The lifting height of the cable car is 3,750 meters; the Barrels shelter is located here, which is more than ten six-seater insulated residential trailers and a kitchen. Currently, this is the main starting point for those climbing Elbrus. At an altitude of 4000 m there is the highest mountain hotel “Shelter of Eleven”, which burned down at the end of the 20th century, on the basis of which the boiler room is now a new building, also actively used by climbers. A number of residential 12-seater trailers and a kitchen have been installed. In the evenings, a diesel generator is organized to supply electricity to the trailers. At an altitude of 4600-4700 m the Pastukhov rocks are located. Above the Pastukhov rocks in winter there is an ice field. From an altitude of 5000, the so-called oblique shelf begins - a trail with a smooth climb. The standard route to the Western and Eastern peaks passes through the saddle. From the saddle, both peaks rise to a height of about 300 m.

Since 2007, work has been underway to build a rescue shelter (“Station EG 5300”) on the saddle of the mountain (height 5300 m). The shelter will be a geodesic dome hemisphere with a diameter of 6.7 m, installed on a gabion foundation. In 2008, a reconnaissance of the area was carried out, a base camp was prepared, and the design of the shelter began. In 2009, the dome structures were made, construction work began: gabions were erected by the expedition members, and the dome elements were transported to the construction site (including using a helicopter). Completion of construction is planned for 2010.

On the northern side, the infrastructure is poorly developed and is represented by several huts on one of the moraines (at an altitude of about 3800 m), which are used by tourists and employees of the Ministry of Emergency Situations. As a rule, this point is used for ascents to the Eastern peak, the path to which passes through the Lenz rocks (from 4600 to 5200 m), which serve as a good reference point for all climbers.

Climbing history

In 1813, Russian academician V.K. Vishnevsky first determined the height of Elbrus (5421 m).

The first successful ascent to one of the peaks of Elbrus was made in 1829 during an expedition led by General G. A. Emmanuel, head of the Caucasian fortified line. The expedition was of a scientific nature (the Elbrus expedition of the Russian Academy of Sciences was organized from Pyatigorsk, which is recorded in Diana’s grotto; see also Mountaineering in pre-revolutionary Russia), its participants were: academician Adolf Kupfer - geophysicist, geologist, founder of the Main Physical Observatory in St. Petersburg , physicist Emilius Lenz, zoologist Eduard Minetrier, founder of the Russian Entomological Society, botanist Karl Meyer, who later became an academician and director of the botanical garden of the Russian Academy of Sciences, artist-architect Joseph (Giuseppe-Marco) Bernardazzi, Hungarian scientist Janos Besse. The auxiliary service of Emmanuel's expedition consisted of 650 soldiers and 350 line Cossacks, as well as local guides.

Those directly involved in the ascent were Kupfer, Lenz, Meyer, Minetrier, Bernardazzi, 20 Cossacks and guides. However, lack of experience and poor quality of climbing equipment forced most of the participants to turn back. Only four continued the further ascent: Emilius Lenz, Cossack Lysenkov and two people from the group of guides - Hilar Khachirov and Akhiya Sottaev. At an altitude of about 5300 m, due to lack of strength, Lenz and his two accompanying men were forced to stop. The first to climb the eastern peak at about 11 a.m. on July 10, 1829 was the Karachai (according to other sources, Kabardian) guide Hilar Khachirov. This event was marked by a rifle salute in the camp, where General Emmanuel watched the ascent through a powerful telescope.

At the location of the camp, a memorial inscription was carved on one of the stones ( below and in Fig.), the location of which was lost over time. It was discovered by Soviet climbers already in the 20th century (by chance, 103 years later - it was hidden under centuries-old layers of lichens).

The first successful ascent to the western, highest peak was made in 1874 by a group of English climbers led by F. Grove and Balkar guide A. Sottaev, who participated in the first ascent.

The first person to climb both peaks of Elbrus is considered to be the Russian military topographer A.V. Pastukhov. In 1890, accompanied by four Cossacks of the Khopersky regiment, he climbed its western peak, and six years later, in 1896, he conquered the eastern one. Pastukhov was also the first to map the peaks of Elbrus.

In August 1974, three completely standard (without winches and traction chains) UAZ-469 vehicles reached a glacier on Mount Elbrus at an altitude of 4000 meters during a test run.

Now Elbrus is very popular for climbing, both in mountaineering and mountain tourism.

Elbrus during the Great Patriotic War

Due to its symbolic significance as the highest point in Europe, Elbrus became the scene of a fierce confrontation during the Great Patriotic War, in which units of the German mountain rifle division “Edelweiss” also participated. During the Battle of the Caucasus on August 21, 1942, after occupying the Krugozor and Shelter of the Eleven mountain bases, German alpine riflemen managed to install German banners on the western peak of Elbrus. By the middle of the winter of 1942-1943, the Wehrmacht was knocked out from the slopes of Elbrus, and on February 13 and 17, 1943, Soviet climbers climbed the western and eastern peaks of Elbrus, respectively, where Soviet flags were hoisted.