Taiga Old Believers: "Unforgettable Russia" Oleg Smolia. Starbers kaa-chem. Photo History

You will visit the main festival of Tuvintsev-Torjetsev, learn about the ways of survival in the conditions of the Taygetal highlands, get acquainted with the old leather craft and the mountainous gastronomy of the northern people. We will show you the most beautiful panoramas of Eastern Sayan and amazing places in the Hamsar River area. On the way along the way, we also visit the iconic places of the Krasnoyarsk Territory and the Republic of Tyva.

Day 1.
Transfer Krasnoyarsk - Museum-Reserve "Shushenskoye". Excursion to the reserve. "Shushenskoye" - the preserved and reconstructed Siberian village, which it was at the end of the Xih - the beginning of the twentieth centuries, a unique open-air complex consisting of 29 houses. The living conditions of Sibiryakov are recreated in the hill and on the estates, the main classes of peasants are reflected, their crafts and crafts are shown.
Accommodation. Relaxation.

Day 2.
Transfer "Shushenskoye" - the complex of Aldyn-Bulak (Republic of Tyva). Arrival. Accommodation. Tour of the complex. You will pass through the Heavenly Gate of Shambhala, you will learn why Khana chose this place for their parking lot and see the "Ovaa Hoomea" cult symbol, aspiring in the sky.
Excursion to Kyzyl. Visit the National Museum. You will see the famous ancient Gold Scythians, whose detection in the root turned the idea of \u200b\u200bthe Scythian culture. Golden decorations, made more than 10 centuries ago, still amazing the imagination by the art of the pattern and thoroughness of processing.
Walk to the geographical center of Asia, Obelisk on the embankment of Kyzyl. Inspection of the sculptural composition "Tsarist hunting", which received the premium "Pietrasanta and Versilia" in Italy in 2013
Return to Aldeon Bulak. Relaxation.

Day 3.
Transfer Aldyn-Bulak - Torah-Hem. On the way lunch in the Tuvinian Yurt in the Tsarist Valley. National dishes. Arrival at the base in the area of \u200b\u200bTorahe-Hem. Accommodation.

Day 4.
We celebrate the holiday of the day of the reindeer breeding.
In the holiday program:
Familiarity with life, traditions and national cuisine of reindeer herders Todii
Demonstration of traditional crafts of this alpine edge
Exhibition of hunting trophies
High Sightseeing Competitions and Reindeer Paving
The most spectacular part of the holiday is horse racing on deer.

Day 5.
Transfer Tora-Hem - Hamsara. Stops in picturesque mountain places, panoramic species of Eastern Sayan. Acquaintance with the Nazas Reserve in the area of \u200b\u200bthe Hamsar River. Accommodation in wooden houses.

Day 6.
Immersion in the culture of reindeer breeders. Excursion to the traditional hunt. Photohoot. Five fishing.

Day 7.
Transfer "Hamsara - Torah-Hem". Stopping at the recreation center in a picturesque place near the River Biy-Hem (Big Yenisei). Sooty fishing on the Biy-Hem River (Big Yenisei). Overnight.

Day 8.
Transfer Torah Hem - Ergaki Natural Park. Accommodation on the tourist base. Relaxation.

Day 9.
Transfer Ergaki - Krasnoyarsk. Ending tour

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Each resident of the republic was at least once seen Old Believers - their appearance is atponed for humans of the XXI century. - Mustache and beard in men covered with scarf head of women, be sure to be a native cross. Not many people know about the peculiarities of this small group of Tuva, which preserved a unique culture and lifestyle. There is an objective reason for this: avoiding contacts with the outside world, the Old Believers settled and now compactly live in hard-to-reach places - in the Yenisei Topper in the Kaa-Hem district and dispersed in Taninsky, Todzhinsky districts and in Kyzyl. It is difficult to call even the exact number of old workers, according to experts, there are few of them - from 500 to 1000 representatives.

Who are Old Believers? When and why they moved to Tuva? Which scientists have studied their culture, what secrets need to know? For answers to these and other issues, we appealed to, a candidate of philological sciences, a leading scientific employee of the Tiga culture sector. In February of this year, she began for the monograph "Old Believers in Tuva" (Novosibirsk, 2006).

Who are Old Believers?

Old Believers are Orthodox Christians who have not taken church reform. In 1666-1667. Patriarch Nikon introduced a number of changes to bring Russian Orthodox rituals in line with Greek canons and turn Moscow into the third Rome. He prescribed to make a cristest in three fingers instead of two; The so-called were canceled. throwing, or small earth bows; Cross moves began to spend in the opposite direction (against the sun, not embodied); Hallery "Alliluya" during singing in honor of St. Trinity began to say not twice, but three times, etc.

Taking advantage of the support of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, the Higher Orthodox clergy imposed a ban on old rites (from here, their adherents began to call the Old Believers) and originated by Anathema (excavation from the church) of everyone who observed them. For several centuries, the Old Believers or, as they also called, the splitters, the heretics were subjected to cruel persecution. So without conquering, many of them betrayed themselves by self-burning, the part was exterminated, and the part emigrated to Australia and the United States either fled to the hard-to-reach and minorized terrain of Russia.

Currently, old-voltage communities, in addition to Russia (up to 2 million people), are available in Belarus, Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, Moldova, Poland, Romania, Bulgaria, Ukraine, in the USA, Canada and a number of Latin America countries, as well as Australia.

In search of the legendary Belovenia - in Tuva

From the book M.P. Tatarinseva, we learn that the mass resettlement of the Old Believers in Tuva has occurred in recent decades of the XIX - early XX century. They were attracted by "wilderness and freedom" - Tuva at that time did not belong to Russia, it was an abroad, someone else's land. They moved here in search of the legendary Belovenia - the place removed from the world was inacked for the "servant of the Antichrist" (they called royal officials), where the Donikonian faith was preserved, reign good and justice. Old Believers fled, also trying to protect their sons from the service of the army, escaping from taxation and filters, and later - from wars, revolutions, collective farms and decals.

The first permanent settlers in Tuva became Old Believers from p. Usinsky (now south of the Krasnoyarsk Territory). The very first was settled by the valley r. Victory, comfortable for earth farm. The names and surnames of the Russian settlers gave the name to Zaimkov, and then the first villages. So Danilovka, Fedorovka, Dental, Vladimirovka, etc. appeared. New villages were also called in honor of the Christian saints and religious holidays, the time coincided with the foundation of the settlement: Ilyinka, Assumption, Petropavlovka, Znamenka. The economic development of new lands, as well as the relocation, went in difficult conditions. Survive and consolidate the Old Believers were helped by their faith, exceptional hard work, patience, perseverance and resistance. Migrants that had a large agricultural experience brought with them agricultural instruments, seeds and cattle.

In 1913, according to archival data, 1360 Old Believers lived in Tuva, most of them lived in low-dealership (now Kaa-Hemsk), there were from 10 to 30% of them. Later, they began to move into more remote places, mainly in the upper agent of Yenisei from the desire to avoid constant communication with the "Yeretics-Niconian". According to O. Homushka in the early 1960s. Tuva lived to 400 old-owned families.

Old Believers are divided into two currents: in Tuva, more representatives of the radical flow - the freeness. They cost without priests and do not take all the "worldly": marriages, laws, service in the army, passports, money and any power. Popovtsy retain the old supplied church and priests, are loyally tuned to the authorities.

Secrets of communicating with old goods

- Margarita Petrovna, we congratulate you on the award of the state! Why from many topics worthy scientific studies, did you choose this particular?

The topic "Old Believers in Tuva" is a natural continuation of the study of Russian immigrants in Tuva. Before her, I collected for many years, and then began to publish the collections of Russian folklore in Tuva, studied the creativity of the Russian writers of Tuva, then engaged in the Old Believers.

The topic of old-believe long time was considered closed, the study of this confessional group was not encouraged. It seems that the authorities had the opinion that over time this survival was becoming an old suppression - would disappear. However, already in the 1990s. An active study of the previously forbidden topic began, and I also got into this jet, by studying the history and culture of our local old workers.

- Where did you collect materials for the book?

- To ride in different villages and villages I had to go much - from the late 1970s. It was necessary to collect folklore from Russian Old-timers of Tuva living in different areas. In search of the values \u200b\u200bof Folklore, I sometimes came across the Old Believers. Their behavior was distinguished by density, dimension and restraint in communication, it seemed to me closely, the desire to avoid unnecessary contacts. Then I managed to write down the individual samples of the folklore of the Old Believers in the Twee-Hem district. In 1995-1996 And 2005, I have already specifically collected materials in the villages of Erzhi, Sizim, Saryg-Sep Kaa-Hem district, Durgene, Sosnovka, Bai Haak Tandinsky district and Torah-Hem Todhinsky district.

- Tell us about your first meeting with the annexers.

In the summer of 1981, I went to Test-Hemsky district, in the village of Shurmak and Kurana. At that time, there were mainly old workers, now there are no longer there. In Kuranakh, a tiny village lived, mostly older women. Work is to write folklore - I did not glue with them. I generally accepted a little less than Martian - a woman in jeans, an open T-shirt, with a reporter tape recorder over his shoulder, with a uncoated head and jumped out of the body from the body and wants her songs and chastushki! Now, I understand what an impression it was made, and then it was a shame - so much effort was made, and everything wasted!

- How did you manage to convince them to open up?

The point is not easy, not every informant wants to sing or tell - they are shy, do not hope for memory, or even just do not see any proc. It was necessary to learn how to persuade and explain the meaning and the significance of their work. True, I knew little about the peculiarities of this group of local Russian people, frustrated because of the failure in working with such performers. Now I know that the Old Believers will never sing in the post, on Wednesday and on Friday, etc.

Even appearance - trousers on women, bright cosmetics, uncovered head can be an obstacle to establishing contact. You will not talk to the topic that you suggested, or, on the contrary, will ask questions to you (and the subtext will be like this: you can dress the woman so much, engage in such work - drive around the villages and villages, leaving the family, etc.). Later, when I "walked" and learned to communicate with the Old Believers, and herself herself older, which is important, and to dress, accordingly, did not make any special work to establish contact with the informator-old supplied.

And most importantly, the most important thing is that I am talking to your students - what you need with great respect and interest to any informant, you collect a folklore or other ethnographic material. Patiently and persistently explain the meaning and value of your work, then your interlocutor will have an interest in you, your lesson and will increase his own self-assessment as a connoisseur of important things (maybe the last or one of the few).

We will continue to talk about the culture and the life of the Old Believers. In the next publication, consider the distinctive features of the culture of the Old Believers living in Tuva, including the impact on it globalization and scientific and technological progress.

Having passed the remote villages on the shores of the Small Yenisei: Ergei, the upper Shifa, the already room, Chodurayig, Ok-Chara, I met five large families of the Old Believers. Always persisible, the owners of the taiga will not immediately come to contact with strangers, especially with the photographer.

Two weeks of life next to them, assistance in their daily difficult work - cleaning of the hay, fishing, the collection of berries and mushrooms, harvesting of firewood and twigs, harvesting moss and help in building at home - step by step helped overcome the curtain of distrust. And strong and independent, good-natured and hardworking people opened, whose happiness in love for God, their children and nature.

The liturgical reform, undertaken by the Patriarch Nikon and King Alexei Mikhailovich in the XVII century, led to a large-scale split in the Russian church. The brutal persecution of the royal and religious authorities who wanted to bring people to unobthesshipment and humility, forced millions of Russian people to leave oblique places. Old Believers who kept their faith fled to the White Sea, in the Olonetsky region and Nizhny Novgorod forests.

Time went, the hands of the authorities reached the Old Believers in new places, and independence seekers left further, in the deaf Taiga of Siberia. In the 19th century, Russian people came to the hard-to-reach area of \u200b\u200bthe Small Yenisei, Kaa-Hemsky Kozower Tuva. New settlements were laid on land suitable for the farm in the river valley, higher and higher for the flow. Here, in the upper reaches of the small yenisei, the life and traditions of Russian antibans are preserved.

The place from the capital is far away. Airplane to Abakan, Ten cars clock through Kyzyl to Saryg Sepa, transplant to UAZ-loaf and a couple of hours of forest roads to a point on the shore of Small Yenisei. On the other side of the "Erzhi" hurry, we are crossing the boat. Brought us on your UAZ the owner of the base, Nikolai Syorpas. He will be lucky further, in the taiga depths, but it is necessary to wait for the day, others on the base, while the road to the pass blurred by long rains.

Erzhi, next to which the base is located, the village is large, to one and a half thousand inhabitants, with electricity and boarding school, where their children bring the Old Believers from the borrowing above by Ka-Hem, as in Tuvinski is called small Yenisei. In the old faith here is not all the villagers. Part of the people is close to faith, but in the community is not included, there is not enough rigor. There is someone in the new Orthodox faith, there are even completely unbelievers.

To go to see the village, yes of products to buy, it turned out not far, less than a kilometer from the base. Syorpas, accomplishing, joked: "Starovarov distinguish, men with beards, in the yard from a dozen defones Mal small, women in the headscarves and skirts to heaven, in a year or two with the tummy."

Here is the first acquaintance, Maria with a stroller, a young woman. Greeted. Asked where to buy bread, cottage cheese. The strangers reacted first wary, but did not refuse help, he even surprised responsiveness. He led all over the village, showing who was tastier with milk, where salty are good, and so they have not found anything that they wanted.

Here, in the villages distant from civilization, the case of the business imposed its conditions of harsh taiga nature. Summer is short, and winter is known by frosts. Luxury lands are touched by the forest, in the valleys along the banks of the river. Grow bread, planting gardens. Due to frosts, perennial cultures do not take root. But the annuals grow, even small watermelons. Taiga feeds. The beast beat only an empty, meat eating wild. Walnut collect cedar, mushrooms, berry on jam. The river gives a fish, a lot of smoke. Tayma is often released - it has been little in recent years.

Old Believers are not drunk, "Caesreku" do not drink at all. And on holidays, a charm-other fastening homemade wine on a taiga berry, blueberry or bounds is born.

Resting on the basis of Syorpasa a couple of days, waited for dry weather and moved to the first promotion of the Old Believers - Upper Shivau, forty kilometers through a complex pass from Ergeg.

All the way to Shivaya, under the social buzz of the motor, Nikolai Syorpas urged us to be supernavigal and behave more than modestly, do not write on people with their huge photography. I myself do not become, but with the tailed residents there were good relations for which he was reasonably afraid. I think, two days on the basis of us not only the weather waited, but he looked at us and thought whether it was possible to carry on.

The workers of the Upper Shivea met long before the village, on the MONEY MUDU. They asked to help, throw a bevelled hay in high stacks - omen.

Sleeves have shoved, tried with all his might, and still lagged behind. It was not easy to make a science to raise large oakhas with long three-suck wooden forks. For joint work, they got acquainted, tied conversations.

On the borrowing, the top Shifi, then completely empty, Sasina, Peter and Catherine, came fifteen years ago. The economy was raised from a scratch, lived-wintering at first in the Saraich. Year after year was built, fastened, treated with three daughters. Other relatives come to shave, now there are several families. The daughters grew, moved to the city, and for the summer now they come to Peter with Catherine's restless grandchildren - two girls and two boys.

Our tent town of kids was awakened by a cheerful noise, brought a pair of milk and sour cream. The second day to throw the hay to the gluts is more difficult - all the muscles hurt from the citizens. But the warmer already faces of the owners, smiles, laughter and approval. "Tomorrow Transformation, come! Wints will try home, "Celyan's name is.

The house is simply, without delight, but clean and good. Spacious Songs, dividing the house in half, in the rooms of white walls, large ovens in the middle, iron spring beds - reminded me of the Carpathian village, also retaining his life. "According to one!" - says Peter Grigorievich, and try the delicious drink. The year insists the juice of blueberries, without sugar and yeast, it turns out with barely noticeable alcohol. Drinks easily and not drunk, and mood and talking raises. Joke for a joke, story for history, song for the songs - sat well. "Want to see my horses?" - Calling Peter.

Stable on the outskirts, with two dozen horses, there are even foreign goods. And all your favorite. About every foal Peter Grigorievich can talk for hours.

Parted with Sacin, like old friends. And again on the road, on the boat up the small Yenisei.

Until the next borrowing, half an hour's river sail with the engine. They found Khodurayig on a pretty high coast with a spacious, similar to the cornque valley, the extreme houses are standing right above the kaa-chem.

The opposite coast is almost a sheer, the rocky Taiga Mountain.

The place is convenient for the farm, grow bread, keep cattle. Fields under arable land. River - Kormilitsa and transport artery. In winter, on ice and kyzyl can be. Taiga - Here it is, begins sills on the edge of the borrow.

They sailed, threw backpacks to the shore and went to seek where it is convenient to smash the tents so that it cannot be interpreted anyone, and at the same time it's good to see everything around. Immediately met the grandfather Eliatraia, who had just treated with a baked delicious bread and advised to go to the Marfe Baba: "Matter will accept and help."

Marfa Sergeyevna, Slender, Little and Movable, Seventy, highlighted us a place for tents next to their small house, with a beautiful view of the river, and the village. Allowed to use a stove and kitchenware. In the Old Believers, this is a difficult question - the sin to use the dishes that worldly people took. All the time Marfa Sergeyevna cared for us. They helped and we - they collected the berry, they applied a brushwood, cutting firewood.

The younger son, Dmitry, was on business in a taiga. The eldest daughter, Catherine married and lives in Germany, sometimes a mother comes to spend.

We had a satellite phone, offered Martha Sergeyevna to call daughters. "Besysk this" - refused to grandmother Martha. After a couple of days, Dmitry returned, and we scored the number of his sister, making the volume ridiculously. Hearing the voice of his daughter, forgetting about the demons and throwing the crossed onions, Fled Marfa Sergeyevna through the glade to us with Dima. It is a pity, then she still did not allow himself to photograph, otherwise it would be interesting photo: a little cute rustic grandmother, in ancient clothes, standing on a taiga background, lighting a smile, talking with her daughter in a distant Germany on a satellite telephone.

Next door to Martha Sergeyevna, further from the coast, lives a big family of Panfil Petsev. Senior of twelve children, Grigory, 23 years old, called for children's games - Polyana in the forest behind the village. On Sundays, children, elegant, resort and come on horseback, bikes and motorcycles from all near borrowings, chat and play together. The guys were not long shy, and after a tet of minutes we played with them in the ball, answered the sea of \u200b\u200bcurious questions and listened to the stories about life in the villages, identifying the Bear and Strict Grandfather, who is chasing all children for mischief. They mixed with the bikes, were interested in technology, and even tried to photograph our cameras, tensely posing with each other. And we were pleased to listen to the pure as a river, and enjoyed, photographing bright Slavic faces.

It turns out that we stopped in Chodurayig, which is called big, and not far, dear past the clearing, there is also a small can be small. The children volunteered to show this second, from several yards in the depths of the forest, borrow. We were lucky fun, on two motorcycles, trails and tracks, through puddles and walkways. Escorts for us are famously rushing teenage girls on the swivel horses.

To get acquainted closer, start talking and get the necessary level of trust, allowing you to photograph people, we boldly included in the daily work of old-supplied families. It is idle on a weekday that they once, and in deal talking to talk - work fun. So simply came in the morning to Petzenov, and offered Panfila help. The son of Grigory is marrying thinks, the house is building, that's the work - the ceiling canopy. Difficult nothing, but painstakingly. First, on the other side of the river, in the mountains between the thickets of moss collect, put in bags and on a steep slope down to throw off. Then we carry the boat to the construction site. Now upstairs, and even here the clay should be supplied to the vendors and score moss in the gap between the logs, making the clay from above.

We work Boyko, the brigade is a big one: five older children of Petzena and three of us, travelers. And the kids shame around, watch and try to help-participate. We deal with work, we find out, they are us. Children are curious, everyone wants to know. And as in big cities, potatoes grow, where we take the milk at home, whether all children learn in boarding, if we live. Question for the question, it makes it difficult to answer. It is clear - our worlds are so different. After all, for children Saryg-Sep, the district center is another planet. And for us, urban people, Taiga - an unknown edge with their hidden from a downtown of the views of nature.

With Paul Bygteskiy, who invited to visit, met in Major Khodurayig, where they went with children on Sunday. The path to him on the borrowing of the OK-Chara, nine kilometers along the rocky, overgrown in the forest of Small Yenisei. A borrowing of two courtyards is impressive fortress and business. The high rise from the river did not create difficulties with water - here there are many springs right in the courtyards, on wooden grooves, a transparent driver is supplied to the gardens. Water student and tasty.

In the house waited surprise: two rooms, a chamoral and kitchenette, retained the form and decoration from the time of the monastic community. White walls, wicker bastards, linen curtains, homemade furniture, clay dishes. The whole household nuns was natural, did not communicate with the world and did not take anything from the outside. Paul collected and savage the objects of the community, now shows guests. Extreme tourists are fused on Ka-Hem, sometimes they look, here Paul even a separate house and Balca built people to stay with him and relax on the route.

She told Pavel about the life and charter of the monks-Old Believers. On forns and sins. About envy and anger. Anger - sin is cunning, anger will multiply angrily and accumulates in the soul of a sinner, and it is difficult to fight, because a light annoyance is also anger. Envy - sin is not simple, from envy and pride, and anger, and deception is fruit. How important it prays and repent. And to take a post on yourself that the calendar that secretly self-sieuhed so that nothing bothered the soul to pray and realize his sin deeper.

Not only the rigor reign in the souls of local old workers. He spoke Pavel about forgiveness, about peace-loving to other religions, about freedom of choice for his children and grandchildren. "Growth will go to learn who will want. We will go to the world. God will give, faith Our ancillary will not forget. Someone will come back, with age more often about the soul think. "

Simple communities, not monks, the outside world is not banned, take the old bar and achieve civilization that help in labor. Motors use rifles. I saw the tractor, even solar panels. To buy, money earn, selling the products of their work.

I read the chosen heads of John Zlatoust, translated from Staroslavyansky. So chose what you listen, hopping my breath. I remember about the seal of an antichrist. Paul explained in his own way that, for example, all the official recorders of the person documents and there is his stamp. So the Antichrist wants to take all of us. "Won, in America, each person is going to some electric chips under the skin to sew so that anywhere from Antichrist could not hide."

From the "Museum" spent on the summer kitchen, treated with whatever, smoked talem, fresh bread and special home wine, on birch juice instead of water. Leaving, bought a young turkey from Pavel, and until late Night, plunged, laughing at their ineptness.

With the children of Poppy from Small Khodurayig, they met on the day of arrival at the game clearing. Curiosity led the guys to the tents every morning. Had twitched, they asked nonstop. Communication with these smiling guys gave a charge of heat and joy for a whole day. And in one morning, the children came running from their parents to visit us.

On the approach to Popov, the younger threesome found the most black puddle with liquid mud and passionately in it jump and seek something. Meets us laughing Mom, Anna: "We saw such chumases? Nothing, water heated, wash away! "

Children, seven, do not just love Popov, they understand them. The house is light from smiles, and Athanasius began a new building - more exploit to children. Children themselves are taught, they do not want to give in a distant boarding school, where there will be no parent heat.

For a treat, quickly talked, as if some kind of invisible wave began to play consonant and gave birth to lightness and trust between us.

Popov's many work, older children help. The farm is strong. They themselves carry the products to sell to the area. On earned funds bought a tractor and a Japanese boat engine. A good motor here is important - on a small Yenisei thresholds dangerous, happened, the unreliable old one will die, you can die. And the river and feed, and they will, she is the path of messages with other villages. In the summer on the boat, and in winter on ice on tractors and UAZ ride.

Here, in the distant settlement, people are not alone, communicate, correspond with the Old Believers throughout Russia, the newspaper of the old faith from Nizhny Novgorod receives.

But communication with the state is trying to minimize, from pensions, benefits and benefits refused. But completely contact with the authority is not avoided - the right to boat and tractor are needed, all sorts, permissions. At least once a year, yes, you need to go behind the papers.

Popov are responsible. There was a case of Athanasius in young years. He served in the army as many in the early 80s, in Afghanistan, the driver of the armored personnel carrier. There was a misfortune, a heavy car refused brakes, an officer died. At first, they defined as an accident, but the situation was inflated by high ranks, the guy gave three years of the general regime colonies. Commanders, regimental and battalion, trusted Athanasius, sent to Tashkent without a convoy. Imagine the situation: a young guy comes to the prison gate, he knocks and asks to start, to deny his term. Later, the same commanders have achieved the transfer of Afanasia to the colony in Tuva, closer to the house.

Good talked with Anna and Afanasy. About life here and in the world. On the relationship between the Old Believer communities in Russia. About relations with the world and the state. About the future of children. Looking late, with good light in the shower.

The next morning went home - a short time trip ended. Heat said goodbye to Martha Sergeyevna. "Come, another time in the house of Pesla, let's go, because they have become native."

Many hours of the road home, in boats, cars, plane, thought, trying to realize what he saw and heard, which did not coincide with my initial expectations. Once at the beginning of the 80s, I read in the Komsomolskaya Pravda, the fascinating articles of Vasily Peskov from the "Taiga Tupik" series. On the amazing family of older, who left people deep into Siberian Taiga. Offic articles, like other stories Vasily Mikhailovich. But the impression of the taped reasons was left as people of poorly educated and wild, colder contemporary and fearing any manifestations of civilization.

Alexey Cherkasova, read recently, has strengthened the concerns that it will be difficult to meet and communicate. And it may be impossible to photograph at all. But hope was, and I decided to travel.

Therefore, it turned out to be so unexpected to see simple, with the internal advantage of people. We carefully keep our traditions and history living in harmony and nature. Hardworking and rational. Peace-loving and independent. I gave me warm and joy of communication.

Something I accepted them, I learned something, I thought about something.

I was lucky enough to live for several days from the family of Old Believers of Bzhitsky, which live in the Worthy Yenisei. You can only get to them by Yenisei or on a helicopter.

It is impressed ... that there are still so sincere, unscrew, people unparalleled by civilization. Live the skates, in a deaf impassable taiga, to the nearest city several hundred km.

Houses are built thoroughly, from cedar, on the shore of the Yenisei. Families are big, many children, as the Old Believers themselves say - "how much God gives", therefore not a rare 10-12 children.

People are deeply relevant, keep all the posts, Holy Chet of God. Frames from the outside world belong to distrust. Men do not cut beard, married women walk with a covered head, in scarves. The city is driving very rarely behind the diesel, cartridges and salt. Sometimes home billets are on sale.

Live without televisions, radio, light, and in general without electricity ... Basic classes - hunting, fishing, gathering berries, mushrooms, herbs. Hold the cattle and grow vegetables. It is categorically rejecting smoking, alcohol of only its own production and that in moderation and on large holidays, the mat does not swear. In the courtyard reigns the perfect order.

Several mountain passes behind, around the deaf impassable taiga ...

... but judging by the facilities here, too, there are owners

A few more tens of kilometers behind and here he is a handsome Yenisei ...

Single in the boat, Single settlements of the Old Believers begin to appear on the shore.

After reaching this threshold, stop ...

And here we are in place. Oddly enough, but we were happy with joy, they listened to a genuine interest and asked what was happening in the country now. One of the rules of the Old Believers, "Flaws" in his house is not allowed from one dishes, therefore, it is especially for guests - tourists and lovers of water outdoor activities, built a separate bath and a guest house where we are placed. Immediately the welcoming hosts fed amazingly delicious home meals, as now I remember pair milk, cutlets from game, smoked meat, smoking meat and a miracle drink "Kosososovka" (something average between kvass and wine).

It is not allowed to photograph yourself, especially girls, they say that "sinful." One of the few pictures.

Children's gardens, schools, no hospitals, so the mother itself acts as a teacher in all subjects.

After the spiritual evening conversations with the family of Bzhicov, we go to the bathhouse and sleep, because tomorrow is a little light on fishing. On the way to the "cool" place, we visit to visit to several families of the Old Believers, and here we are expecting a welcome reception of the owners.

One of the few achievements of humanity, which are used by the Old Believers, are cars (UAZ), motorboats, weapons.

As already mentioned, stabbers older in their home will never be empty. Especially for guests Paul made a small museum. In this house, a nun lived in full solitude. The family owner will gladly tell the guests about the history of the emergence of old settlement, about the people of the Keepers of the ancient Orthodoxy, who refused to accept the church reform of Patriarch Nikon.

Starbers never show their own icons and all the more will never be allowed to photograph. It's just copies.

FROM

kind of ordinary Russian village ... fence ... Greenhouse ... Potato

This is how these wonderful people live. And they do not care about the information society and nanotechnology, for dirty political games, the elections and the government, on the WTO and genetically modified products.

Here, in the head of the Yenisei, in the deaf impassable taiga, their home. Stern Siberian climate and isolation from the outside world make these people just stronger, here they are the owners themselves and hope only for themselves ...

The rover, the Valley of Starovorov is the Sizimsky Suma, there are four settlements in it: the village of Sizim, Arbana Erzhi, Ust-Alup, Catabe, with a dozen towns (farms). The number of beds inaccurately. For papers, in the sum of 228 yard, more than 800 inhabitants, estimated about a thousand Russian people, Old Believers of Chapera Consent.

From the Usil (beautiful Abakan-Kyzyl's beautiful road), you go to the southeast, and a little more than a hundred miles from the capital of Tuva - even intermittently, dotted line, but asphalt to Ust-Burena. Come on the background of the disappeared civilization: Against the background of the wooden halups populated with high-colored cowpers, now broken, indispensable Lenin, here he is in the hat-troops (the temperature scatter - one hundred degrees from an absolute maximum to a minus, minus 60), Honor Boards With the main countryman - Sergey Shoigu. Next roads are conditional. In the spring and autumn there are no them. In the summer, it may be lucky if the Greater miners will be held again, which happens; On the way - ferry crossings. From December to March, the winter was illuminated. There was no roads to remote settlements and beds. Now there is only on boats - and these are thresholds, sewers, rigs, fit pictures, cheeks. In winter - on snowmobile. Also get to their taiga: each family has a tens of square kilometers in the taiga, where the head of the family hunts in winter. Plots - in the distance from the villages, next to which the beast does not beat, the forest does not cut. And next to winter trees are not filled - they will go deep into the age. From the river the hut will not notice, although they stand on the shore. The trails barely distinguishable. Same - Skits. To the elders and styrices go, but the paths are not natapyut.

They say: the higher by Yenisei, the stronger faith. Not to check, but what you see with your own eyes is that the higher by Yenisei, the roads are worse, until they disappear at all. But to bring the opposite dependence of the Faith of Faith from the accessibility of the world erroneously. From the world in the desert - a secluded area - here we go consciously, first faith, then the skete. Deserted here is the ideal, "spiritual paradise."

How many years left the invisible country with alternative Russians?

Iron flow

About 410-kilometer railway arm Kuragin-kyzyl (and further to the coal specks of Elegesta) for the export of minerals from Tuva speak many years. Expandable Kuzbass is called to replace the Ulug-Hem basin. And those interested in the road are no less than those who are not accepting and afraid (but who was interested in the opinion of the Aborigines). The Russian government approved the project in 2007. And the road has ever had to open. In 2012, in accordance with the development strategy of Russia's railway transport until 2030. For a later plan of the government - in 2016.

In June 2011, Ruslan Baisarov became the owner of the Elegstinsky field of coking coal, and Moscow identified the readiness to go to business. By that time, Putin had not yet caught in Tuva the famous pike for 20 kilos, but he already buried Harius and Lenkov with Prince of Monaco here, after which it was shared: "Such a gorgeous, powerful nature has not seen anywhere. I do not want any high words to speak, but this is a very strong impression. I am a lot where I saw a lot of things, but I have never seen this yet. " Nevertheless, in December 2011, Putin drives the first golden crutch in the first sleeper.

Since then, the horse did not bother, in addition to the crutch, only one kilometer of paths near Kyzyl was built. Last year, the Eastern Forum was announced: the construction will resume in 2018, the Government approved the next plan, at a meeting of Dvorkovich signed a concession agreement with investors. This year, in May, Shoigu stated that the military began to take for the construction.

While the Tuva goes from Tuva under the Usinsky tract, long-term trainers and major services are taken away - take it out of the nearest to the microdistrict (in bags of polypropylene up to 3 tons with pips). This iron flow, like Yenisei, is folded from two tributaries: Elegalian high-quality coal and ore from Todii, where in 2015 the Chinese "Lunxin" launched a mining and processing plant. This is on a large Yenisei (Biyhem), where the Old Believers are present dispersed and disappear. The Chinese gave Kyzyl-Tashtyagskoye deposit of polymetallic ores ( see "New" No. 134 from 2012) - 200 km northeastern Kyzyl, Ridge Academician Obruchev. There is now a promsion: near Ak-Hem, the influx of Big Yenisei, almost on the shore hundreds of hectares of cedar forest are cut down, a quarry dies in Pleshine. This is an open mine. Here is a processing factory with a power of 1 million tons of ore per year. Zinc, lead, copper concentrates. Also in ore cadmium, selenium, barium, gold, silver.

Vakum: "They are all crushed: the ground, the roots of trees, grass, trees. What dug up, then they are brought to their recycling. Dotted, now Ruda is lucky. There everything is in this breed, the main thing is the necessary metal for phones, computers. At one time, the Chinese did not let the tax inspectorate. So the helicopter with the security forces landed to them. " (Pro Helicopter with riot looks like the truth. Until June 20 in the Yenisei basin, the fishing is prohibited, but some kind of Moscow Zhobone in the upper horse caught Lenkov with red-born timers. Flasks and barrels were exported. They were slowed down: two thousand of them were dried and drove , We are Moscow! From you, chumazy, bite off? And so you feed you. In Kyzyl, I was waiting for the riot police and cameras, shoes in full, the case was excited, the fish immediately burned.)

"Lunxin" - "daughter" of the largest mining holding of China Zijin Mining Group with a sad background and a reputation as the largest pollutant and a poisoner inside the PRC, scandals pursue him abroad, from Peru to Kyrgyzstan.

In the top of the world, China was present before the Second World War, now the prices of a stream of cabarius, bearish paws and bile, troty skins are dictated. Vakum: "Well, and we do not pass by, all this is catching, but we ourselves do not use something. The same bearish is bile - romantic, of course, sounds like a boar, but she is the same. And we grow with these wild boars, run around the village, the same roots and grass eat that bears. "

For more than a hundred years, the old-supplied system of the management in the upper gauge did not violate natural cycles and symbiosis, the number of beasts is stable, no one takes above the eye. Later, accession to the USSR, the dissected relief that prevents the roads allowed the entire isolated Tuva to remain the most environmentally friendly region of the former union, not a leaving industry. What is there - on the planet of such territories that have retained landscapes, units. And here she is waiting, not believing in his end, the appearance of the road and civilization.

For indigenous communities and ecosystems everywhere and always, from Mongolia to Latin America, from Africa to Transbaikalia, globalization, investments and Chinese resource-producing companies mean the same thing. Not only chinese, of course. Ours are no better, gold miners are crying Tuva, derbanyat, etching rivers accurately revenge for what, and, for example, Tuva's cyanides learned in detail due to the joint venture of the Swedes and Canadians; The point is not in Chinese or Canadians, and not even in Russia, allowing themselves to behave. However, they say, and in globalization there is something, the backward kids from a bearish angle will finally watch "Scooby Doo": "Many are trying to remake everything in this world, they think that it is progress! But there is something that is already fine, and you don't need to change it. "

What will happen in a concrete supporter, something about it. In Africa, Masai walk with spears. Also live in harmony with nature. Beautiful people, states, clean, covered with red sheets and in slippers, cut from tires - thanks to progress. And all their reserved rhinos are upgraded due to the value of the horns in Chinese medicine. The local subspecies of the black rhino, and the White, who lived nearby are extinct. But they were not extinct - they were destroyed, it did not even help that the Rangers guarded the last animals were paled by outsiders without warning. And those subspecies that are alive, they grow more and more often without horns - it is cut off, sleeping animal, and poachers, and the defenders of nature - in order to save rhinos.

Bears without paws and cabaga without his jet can hardly be able to.

Verkhovsky - Real Indians. To go to the fun to the Chinese with Rhotina on the bear - will not. But beyond the origins of Yenisei - hardly. Run themselves again and leave. There will be a globalized empty space without them.

Vacuum reports: "The Chinese roads have already done to Todju. And Russia Railway to Transsib, what do you think will build? Not. Shoigu said: on her way three hundred ancient burials. So far I do not check everything, there will be no road. In the year they check the two Kurgan. And Shoigu already for 60 (years). "

But Shoigu is already nothing to do with it. What is China. From the Tourism Development Strategy approved by the Tuvansky government on December 28, 2017: "In June 2016, the leaders of Mongolia, Russia and China approved the program for creating an economic corridor: West Railway Corridor (Kuragin-Kyzyl-Khandigite-Borsho-Kobdi-Tashchken-Kozy-Changjzi Huiean AO-Urumchi); Northern Railway Corridor (Kuragino-Kyzyl-Tologo-Arzsur-Odde Erland-Skit-Zamun-Ude-Erlag-Ulyanchab-Zhangjiakou-Beijing-Tianjin). "

Documents of the trilateral meeting in Tashkent on June 23, 2016 are not so unequivocal, they say "to explore and with economic validity to start implementing these projects", but the Tuvinian Cabinet knows that his head of Kara Ool recently stated that the Asian Development Bank is ready to invest in the North Corridor About 3 billion dollars. Tuva and Mongolia just offer to be considered priority. In Tuva, meanwhile all new deposits are sold.

Mine says that "Avatar" saw. Life movie. About them.

Perpendicular

Avtarkia Topper is an advanced experience of self-insulation, import substitution and mobilization economy. And nothing from the rule of the Verkhovsky is not waiting: neither protection, nor medicine, nor benefits - the dream of "United Russia" and government seemingly. Cloning such. Work, multiply, politics are interested in moderation. The TV is not looking, it is bad, but to America - not very: "They say, she is against Russia" (Vakum). Unreliable, of course, this "say".

Business customs - gray economy: everything in words, personal relations and guarantions, on the concepts, not legalizing. Community is given to the growth of the most skillful, their names will not shine. According to methods, the same closed offshore kleptocracy, which is at the heart of the rest of Russia. Results are opposite.

No, by the way, the Middle Ages. It could be successfully confronted by Soviet progress - that with the fact that Gagarin, the hydrogen bomb, the Bratskaya HPP and Uralvagonzavod? Since the 90s, many (deductors deductible) use weighing things that facilitate ordinary life; and bank cards they have, and motobra ...

Chapels were settled by impressions throughout Yenisei and many tributaries. Communication Help Help Soviet still radio stations "Angara" - signals are caught in the river and river terraces, "shelves" and "counterparts", as they call the mastered, plowed, taken away from the taiga and rocks of the lands. I can hear the valid villages up to the Igarka. Several years ago, on the conversion of Larisa Shoigu, sisters of the Minister, the Krasnoyarsk Regcenter of the Ministry of Emergency Situations handed over the opposite of the Army Command-Staff Complex - the radio station on the chassis of the all-terrain chassis and six portable devices. This is a permanent connection to 300 km. And then in Szyme put a cellular tower and cards. And television came, suddenly who wants.

Masai, holding the roots and traditions to cause rain, sacrifice the goat's most expensive. And immediately stamps into cellular - they look at the weather forecast. And the Old Believers are not here, there is no sturgeon in the wetovye, much lower - the samols are removed, already focusing on GPS.

Well, if not about the technical side, the archaica is also not visible. If Russia does everything in order for it to be crushed and sold out, as a carcass of the already dead animal. If it tries so hard to merge, cake. If Christian churches brought to conversations about the close end of Christianity. What, tell me, is more relevant to the upper, what is there a more meaning, as not in his people?

There are no idols, they don't pray for the king as before and the anointed man is not recognized. All are equal before God. Hence the principal impossibility of existence here "small people", "screws", "Anchovov", which do not decide anything. In their communities of democracy and the values \u200b\u200bof humanism.

So, with the state, they are still perpendicular. Do not deal with him - the condition for preserving itself.

But they are constantly overtake. Meanwhile, China, the road is an external threat, and sometimes only reflect the internal contradictions.

Rapid

Many villages and borrowers, founded by Russian merchants or anneamians, tuvintsy gave their own names, for example, the district center, to which the upwardness refers, from the banner he became Saryg-Sepom, but the house for the Starber is not the main thing, he will immediately move and move, the river is more important, And they call them as insert or by name-names of those who live on them. We pass by the "Perm River" - 30 km from the mouth of their village of Cataza. With perm (they, too, from Perm edges, like a genus Vacuum, only came later) Vakum and Mineya are full of common memories. Counting of events - from Illarion Lvovich, heads of the community: "She was still alive, Grandfather." 9 of his sons here, and only one in the tree-not last name, daughters were married. Now - granddaughters. And the sons of 70 children. Army. Outpost. Just not far from the pore-box.

But still Grandfall Illarion arranged so that the catabe from the borrowing turned into a brand, to a tour bar for foreigners and rich compatriots. At different times, P. Borodin, Y. Luzhkov, N. Mikhalkov, S. Shoigu are arrived here. And many other clans have a tour duty that give good income.

Pioneers called one of the dangerous thresholds on Ka-Hem Moscow. Their grandchildren and great-grandchildren found how to make money on Moscow. Wallets fly to Röv Marala. And in Ergeye itself, the regional festival "Singing art and traditional crafts of the Old Believers of Siberia." And in Sisima - the Interregional Festival of Russian Culture.

Two Russia come closer. For the same Verkhovsky, this adaptation to modernity was allowed in 1912 to eat potatoes, and in 1972 - pasta, others see the refusal of the ruins and the path to death. "He eaten separately, and came to us. And on the way back on the thresholds no longer landed, "one of the tourists responded about his conductor.

Fortress

Now it's not at all about whether the road is needed. Roads, of course, benefit. I'm about a friend, that's the chapels in the know: if the world gets a chance to disperse or destroy some space, so be. Beautiful, solid, the best - to die: they will get to the ship bumps and cut. But there is an option: you can grind. When they come to sish, large cedars are not beaten. What is the sense, not shaking. Hugger - Fortress, such a cedar.

It made a lot. The outflow of Russians from Tuva began in the 70s of the last century, and in my eyes, in 1992, it was already a massive outcome. Extract from Anamnese: At first, the Slavs flooded the shrines of Tuvintsev, erecting the Sayano-Shushenskaya HPP, began to put the plants on their sacred mountains, and the tuvints could only ride the horses and throw knives into Kamaz. Then they took to beat the Slavs of the glass, to set for the houses, the riders in the column of three were roasted along the streets of Kyzyl, demanding independence from Russia. The Russians went to bed, putting charged guns into bed, then stretched through passals to the north. The headwood also kept, but now - no strife.

With globalization and progress can not cope. But nothing is predetermined. It did not come out to swing oil on the sce. Rosatom has a desire to extract uranium in the Krasnochik district of Transbaikalia. So did not go to China through the Altai gas pipeline - and they wanted to build it before "the forces of Siberia", the contract was ready for signing. Everywhere the Old Believers rose along with autochtones - respectively by Ketami, Buryats, Telengitis and other Altaic peoples. With shamans, Lamami - can, with them and not together, but shoulder to shoulder. And won. And "Mekran" blown out, cutting forests on average Yenisei, where the chapels live. But the hangar, where the old-supplied communities were not, were durable and buried.

Why is that? "Public Opinion" may, and at what, but his role is not decisive. Unprofitability of megaprojects, corruption as their reason and consequence, lack of money, crisis phenomena? Yes, but not to explain to all this, why suddenly Leviafan squeezes the jaw. Old Believer Cemetery in the center of the Olympic Sochi, they did not bed with the ground. There was enough money there.

The hedge of whether the Verkhovskaya Preloi will be burned from the cattle, the nails are taught, whether the mountains will grow up, but in the existing plan to free the place of the Chinese business and to oust the antibans somewhere in Latin America can adjustments. In the end, there is no such law that binds us around to surrender and leave. Yenisei should begin in the upper horse, and not in Bolivia.