To the carpathians on their own. Car trip to the carpathians

Have you had a free weekend and are you planning to spend it in an ecologically clean region of Ukraine, in the Ukrainian Carpathians? Do you want to get acquainted with the traditions and life of the local people, breathe in the heady mountain air and just have a great rest? And you are going on a trip by car? Then this article is for you.

The Ukrainian Carpathians joyfully welcome their tourists at any time of the year. Arriving in the Carpathians, you will be enchanted by the beauty of the local landscapes, as if you were in a fairy tale - high mountains, fast mountain rivers, "smirk" forests and beautiful waterfalls. Once, having come to this land, you will love it forever and will come back here again and again.

So, you have arrived in the Carpathians. It is best to stay in Yaremche, there is a large selection of housing at affordable prices, and in the evening there is where to walk, unlike other settlements. After all, Yaremche is a city, a tourist center of Ivano-Frankivsk region. Having rented an accommodation in Yaremche, relax as you should, ahead of you there are three days of a rich excursion program!

Day 1. The route called "The Golden Ring of Hutsulshchyna" Yaremche - Kolomyia - Kosov - Sheshory - Pistyn - Kryvorivnya - Verkhovyna - Vorokhta.

This excursion route will acquaint you with the life, traditions and rituals of such ethnographic groups as "Hutsuls", will give you the opportunity to appreciate the beauty of the high mountainous regions of the Carpathians and even plunge into childhood, visiting St. Nicholas.

The first stop is Kolomyia. An ancient small town in the Austro-Hungarian style, the first mention of it dates back to 1241. There are two very interesting museums in Kolomyia, which should be visited by every tourist who comes here. The Pysanka Museum, built in the shape of an egg, contains a collection of 10 thousand exhibits of painted Easter eggs from different parts of Ukraine.

"Museum of Folk Art of Hutsul and Pokutya" - it contains a collection of exhibits telling about the life of the inhabitants of the Carpathian region - household items, clothing, jewelry, weapons, the folk art of the inhabitants of the Hutsul region is widely represented - weaving, forging, wood carving. Another place that you need to visit while in Kolomyia is the Іmpreza tsukernyu. It is located not far from the Pysanka Museum, along Teatralnaya Street, 40. You have never seen so many pastries, all kinds of cakes, strudel and pies. And the taste of these sweets is impossible to convey!

We call in Sheshory. This is a picturesque village along the Pistynka mountain river, but Sheshory is not famous for this. The main attraction is the Silvery Falls. Beautiful, cascading ones to swim in (so don't forget to bring your swimsuit if you come here in summer).

Further on our way appears a small village called Pistyn. In the center of this village there is a real estate of St. Nicholas, the Ukrainian grandfather Frost, whom children love so much. A neat Carpathian house, which houses the study of St. Nicholas, his post office (all letters received from children are stored here), a bedroom, a museum room and much more interesting. The estate is guarded by various fairy-tale heroes made of wood by folk craftsmen. Be sure to visit Nikolaychik and you will have great pleasure! Even adults here rejoice like children and involuntarily begin to believe in a miracle.

The next small stop is in Kryvorivna. There is a memorial museum of Ivan Franko.

Verkhovyna is a beautiful alpine village in the Carpathians. The main attraction of Verkhovyna is the museum in memory of Roman Kumlyk. This museum was opened in 2000 in the Kumlykov family house. For more than thirty years, the owner of the house, Roman Kumlyk, collected household items, ancient Hutsul clothes, but his pride was a collection of musical instruments. He knew how to play all musical instruments. After his death, his daughter Natalya continues his work, who during the excursion talks about the life of the Hutsuls, about the rituals, sings songs and plays various instruments. Be sure to visit!

And the very last stop is Vorokhta, which is considered the center of alpine skiing. There are four jumps with artificial turf, where you can train all year round. It is here that the teams for alpine skiing, ski jumping and biathlon are trained. Stop, take a couple of photos and relax - there are 2 more busy days ahead!

Day 2. Route: Guk waterfall - Bukovel

Not far from Yaremche, along the Rakhiv - Ivano-Frankivsk highway, between the villages of Mykulychyn and Tatariv there is a valley of the Zhenets River, there is one of the highest waterfalls in the Carpathians - Zhenetsky Guk. The height of the water drop is 15 meters. It's very spectacular!

Next, transfer to the village of Palyanitsa, where the Bukovel ski resort is located. There is plenty to do there at any time of the year. Climb the chairlift to the top of Mount Bukovel, enjoy the panoramic view of the Carpathian Mountains, take a look at the "Kolyba", try the local cuisine, take a walk around the resort. If you come here during the hot season, you can soak up the sun and swim in one of the Bukovel lakes.

Day 3. Route Yaremche - Manyava

The last day of my stay in the Carpathians, I advise you to explore Yaremche. Walk around the souvenir market, buy souvenirs to remember this wonderful land. Take a photo near the breakdown waterfall. If you are full of strength to walk further, walk along the Dovbush trail, created in memory of the legendary rebel leader Oleks Dovbush.

Moving to Manyava. There is one spiritual place that you can visit - Manyavsky Skete. This is an ancient men's monastery, which is also called "Carpathian Athos". On the territory of the monastery there is a complex of wooden and stone architectural structures. A path leads from the monastery to the mountain - this is the exit to the "Blessed Stone", which is a place of prayer and cleans up various negativity and impurity. A spring gushes from under the stone, the water in this spring is considered sacred. Walked, gained strength and on the road! Time to go home!

This is the route of a three-day trip to the Carpathians. We hope it helps you get to know this beautiful land.

Why do people go to the mountains? In the mountains, everyone finds his own excuse, someone wants to escape from his wife, someone from the bustle of the city and people, and someone on the contrary, in search of loneliness and peace. At any time of the year, the mountains are beautiful and attractive, they are mysterious and photogenic.

What could be better than waking up in the early morning at the top of the mountain, and jumping out of a warm sleeping bag, quickly reach the very edge in order to have time to take a breath of the morning, invigorating air and photograph the sunrise. This is the “stupid” happiness of the photographer.
In fact, in front of mountain landscapes, like a rabbit in front of a boa constrictor, I can express all my love and awe only through photographs. I want to present to you a small selection of the summer Carpathians, which I have collected over the past couple of years.


My acquaintance with the Carpathians began in 2007, when I purchased my first SLR camera.


I noticed an interesting moment - the most incredible landscapes and views do not open from the highest point, but directly from the ridges and passes.


Some of the most difficult routes are found in the wild Gorgan.


Paved trails on the ridge.


Central Gorgan is somewhat reminiscent of photographs of mountain deserts - huge stones, rocks, chub, dust and wind that blows in different directions. If you climb higher, you can see thermal contrasts and streams of hot air, and from the top you can see a huge valley of small mountains.


Carpathian black crow (crook).


Some statistical information: the mountain system of the Carpathians starts near Bratislava and ends in the southeast of Romania. The length of the Carpathian Mountains is about 1500 km. The Carpathians are divided into three parts - Western, Eastern and Southern. The western ones are located on the territory of Slovakia, the Czech Republic, Poland and partly Hungary, the Southern Carpathians are located on the territory of Romania, and the Eastern ones - on the territory of Ukraine.

The Carpathians are deservedly considered the most ecologically clean region in Ukraine. Crystal clear and transparent lakes, seething mountain rivers, waterfalls, smoky mountain peaks, clean and heady fresh air, medicinal herbs and plants. In this corner of wild and unspoiled nature, unique ancient forests still grow.


In the background, the Marmaros massif - the peaks of Petros and Pop Ivan.


Poloninas are dome-shaped treeless plateaus smoothed by the advance of the glacier, which left longitudinal ribbed outbursts and small hollows on their slopes.


Lake Brebeneskul.


Delicious lingonberry (non-GMO).


Blueberry berry, in our region even a festival is dedicated to it and a monument is erected.


Just some 300 million years ago, the waves of the Tethys Ocean splashed here.





Shypot waterfall. Annual meeting place hippie (our local Woodstock ).

Pyramids on the peaks, made by those who have reached the highest point.

Slow, exhausting climb.


And this is a photo from my first trip to the mountains.


Schopenhauer said: “The most common form of pride is national pride. Every person living on the planet feels a sense of pride in their homeland. " I would replace the word "Motherland" with "Karpaty".


The Gorgan stones, which are millions, millions of years old.


Gorgan peaks are famous for their steep ascents and descents, slippery stones and ashes.


Crystal clear mountain lake Synevyr.


Due to the high humidity in the Carpathians, very often the peaks are covered with fog and it seems that you are walking above the clouds.



Paragliders have chosen the Carpathian peaks. Every year there is a competition " Carpathian Cup "On paragliding.



Sunset over Bear Gorge.


Tourists on the Borzhavsky ridge.


Lake Brebeneskul is a lake of glacial origin, located at an altitude of 1801m above sea level (Chornohora ridge).

Exit to the Marmaros ridge.

Part of the Borzhavsky ridge to the top of Stoi.


Traverse path.


The classical summit of the Gorgan ridge is stones and zhrep (thorny bush, mountain pine).


Pine cone. It is widely used for the preparation of medicinal preparations.


Gorgan ridge. The height of the local mountains ranges from 1400 meters to 1800 meters, the highest point in Gorgan is Mount Bolshaya Syvulya (1836 m).


A spider web on flowers.


Early morning. View from the Ozernaya mountain.


The highest point of the Ukrainian Carpathians is Mount Hoverla, 2061 meters above sea level.


View from Mount Veliky Verkh (Borzhavsky ridge).


View of Mount Stoi (Borzhavsky ridge).


The Svidovets ridge is considered the heart of Europe.


Gorgan landscapes.


High in the mountains, a boy asks his Georgian grandfather:
- Grandpa, how old are you?
- One hundred psEm ...
- Do you drink, do you smoke ?!
- Of course !!! Otherwise, I will never die like that.

57

Each time passing the entire route and leaving the Carpathian mountains, I know that I will come back here again and again, including the next lives. Friends, there is still a photo report about the winter Carpathians ahead of you.

What comes to mind first of all when you hear the word "Carpathians"? Most likely these are Bukovel, Yaremche, Slavskoe, Truskavets, Mount Hoverla, and other popular tourist places.

Our big trip, which ended a few days ago, took place in completely different areas. It was a lot of positive emotions away from cities and crowds of tourists!

10 days, hundreds of kilometers of mountain roads behind. We managed to see absolutely everything that was planned, and even a little more.

You probably followed our movements on my Facebook page ... And if not, then subscribe, there I post the most relevant photos that convey impressions in real time. I always leave detailed photo reports for this blog.

Route

During the trip, they wrote to me in a personal message with questions about the route and planning such a road trip. Therefore, I will try to describe everything in detail.

When preparing the route, I tried to avoid highly popular tourist spots. I chose something unusual in advance, even with a bad and difficult road. However, we drove an average passenger car wherever we planned. Albeit with difficulty, but passed. And even a couple of times they helped other people on the road, once with a towing cable, and once they lit up a car with a dead battery.

The departure was from Kiev, along the traditional route Kiev-Chop. In Stryi we turned towards the Valley.

Hotels and guest houses

After selecting interesting places, you need to think about the place to spend the night and book hotels. All hotels and guest houses fell into the price range from 200 to 320 UAH per day for two per room with amenities. We had breakfast in the room, dinner was cooked on the grill. We did not book accommodation for all days, but left a few days free in case of changes in plans. Because you don't always know how interesting it will be in a particular place, and how long you want to stay there.

In total, we dashed off a little over 2000 km.

You have all the input data, so it's easy to calculate the budget for such a trip. I wish all doubters to go to the Carpathians by their own car! I hope I've cleared up your doubts.

What did we see?

Now I will describe the most important points, and then, for each of the places there will be a separate deployed post.

1. Ivano-Frankivsk region. The first stop is with beautiful architecture. Here begins the Carpathian foothills. The photo shows the town hall built in 1863.

Pgt. Benefit.

2. Benefit is famous for its old mountain narrow-gauge railway called "". We visited Vygoda for the first time in May. Then we decided that we would definitely take a ride on the Carpathian Tram in the summer.

3.. Many acquaintances told me about this place, and now, finally, we saw everything with our own eyes.

Rocks of striking fantastic shapes up to 80 meters high are located on a huge territory in a beech and spruce forest.

4. Village of Myslivka. A great quiet place to stay for a few days without rushing anywhere. However, we dedicated a separate day (1313 meters).

five. . One of the five most exotic farms in Ukraine. You won't find it on the map, and getting there was not easy at all. 8 km along a mountain road, along which even timber trucks travel very slowly, bypassing huge holes.

6. Have you heard that the Carpathians have a sea? It . The water is clean, you can swim.

7. . There were already enough tourists, nevertheless, we managed to take a normal shot.

The old railway tunnel with a length of 1750 m was built in the days of Austria-Hungary in 1886. During this time, he ceased to cope with the increased traffic, and began to require major repairs. The traffic here is very intense, the trains climb the mountain serpentine. Nearby, a few tens of meters away, a new, double-track is being actively built. This is the most important transport facility in our country, it is an element of the 5th Pan-European Transport Corridor (Italy - Slovenia - Hungary - Slovakia - Ukraine - Russia).

8. As a lover of building new infrastructure, I decided to try to drive to the construction site of the new Beskydy Tunnel. We were in Transcarpathia, so we drove from the side of the village Skotarskoe.

This is the southern portal, and the main construction is from the north. There is a town of builders, the main site, equipment.

Let me remind you that the tunnel is a railway one, so the entrance for cars there is very conditional. Climbing the mountain serpentine, along which the trucks take out the rock, turned out to be that kind of quest.

9. A couple of hours of ascent, and we are on the mountain Vershok, with a very beautiful view of Polonyna Borzhava.

Then our way lay through the Torun and Vyshkovsky passes to the Ivano-Frankivsk region.

10. There we again found ourselves in Myslivka.

The weather changed frequently, which made it possible to enjoy both the sun and the clean cool air after the rains.

Sponsors

The sponsors of our auto tour were the Hilton hotel chain, Apple, Philips, Xiaomi, Ford Motor Company and OKKO filling station chain. And UkrAvtoDor.

I'm kidding, of course. The entire trip was for their own money and pure enthusiasm. But if you have any suggestions - write, we will think together.

The trip was just wonderful. I hope that I managed to convey the atmosphere of the amazing Carpathians this summer. But that's not all: there will soon be a separate large photo report for each of the interesting places.

How to find the best hotel in the Carpathians?

Most cheap hotels you

Recently Lesya and Yura arranged a mini-tour to the Carpathians for their friends - everyone is delighted with the local prices and landscapes ... We learned from them how to get there, choose accommodation and plan a route.


BEFORE YOU TRAVEL

Two weeks before our trip, my dad went to this mountain with a group. Pop-Ivan, or Black Mountain, is the second highest in Ukraine, 2020.5 m, at the top of it stands the abandoned astronomical observatory "White Elephant". We decided to leave on Friday evening in order to return on Monday evening: the road, overnight, climbing from greenery to snow, overnight, back home - this is the plan of the Carpathian weekend. According to preliminary calculations, the trip will be budgetary - about $ 60 (equivalent at the rate of the National Bank of the Republic of Belarus 1,075,440 rubles as of the date of creation of the material. - Ed. ) per person (rent a car, overnight in a hotel for our 200,000 rubles for two nights, minor expenses), a company of 9 people was recruited. Let's feed ourselves on the beauty of colorful autumn mountains and put small things out of our heads.

What to take with you

Since we are going to climb the mountain, then the shoes must be comfortable, with a solid sole. It is very cold at the summit, so we stocked up with windproof jackets. With you in your backpack you will still have to carry a warm sweater, gloves, a hat, and even, perhaps, a jumpsuit. It's important to wear bright colors, but not every home has a skier's wardrobe.

It is comfortable to walk with sticks, it distributes the weight. I have three pairs of ski poles, I take everything with me.

AFTER TRAVEL

We waited until a week had passed after the return of the group (do you think how much rest after the Ukrainian roads?), And asked Lesia: "Well, how did you go?"

I really want to go back and spend more time there, at least a week, - sighs Les. - So we advise everyone to plan a trip twice as long as we had.

ROAD

It is better not to get to Ukraine by personal transport, considering what kind of roads there are. Next time I would go by train to Ivano-Frankivsk, and from there you can get there by local transport. Of course, in winter it is more comfortable to travel by car, but the journey takes a very long time. And nerves - we weren't very nervous, because we were driving a rental car.

If you are traveling in a large group (there were 9 of us), then you need to take into account that the usual things for the group stretch for a longer time than if you were traveling, for example, four of us: eat in a cafe, load onto a bus, go to the toilet at a gas station - everything takes twice as long.

HOUSING

It turns out that there are a lot of options with housing in the Carpathians - you don't even have to book online: renting a house or a room upon arrival will be cheaper, and the choice is more varied. You can just talk with the locals: on the way back we asked in the village where to buy wine and honey, we were told to go to Ivan Ivanovich. It turned out that not only shopping, but also a tour of the family museum and the opportunity to rent a house were waiting for us. They even offer the organization of traditional celebrations and chic Hutsul dinners. We lived in the Lisova Kvitka hotel in the village of Verkhovyna, right by the forest: at the top of the festival estate, at the bottom of the river and the village. The food there was not very good - next time we are thinking of going to Ivan Ivanitch or staying closer to the mountain. I really enjoyed walking in "our" village - there is a very beautiful river, shaky bridges across it, a view of the mountains - such is Norway.

THE MOUNTAINS

In the mountains, everything depends on the weather: the mountain we climbed is very simple, the trail there is really walking. Under good weather conditions, there is no problem to climb there. We were not lucky: the weather turned bad when we had very little left. It was impressive in its own way: the clouds climbed over the summit, snow and rain flew around, the wild wind knocked down - you could get lost at a distance of several meters. We got to Ushaty Stones, further on there should have been a plain and the last small climb. But we could not see anything, it was already dangerous to go, and we returned back. If you plan to climb there, keep in mind that you need to allocate about 5 hours for the ascent and descent, but at the same time keep within daylight hours. Most of the climb should be done at a 45-degree angle - be sure to grab a cane or stick and distribute your strength. We split into three groups, so that everyone walked at their own pace.

There are two paths from the shepherd's house - orange and blue (according to the designations on the map and on the terrain): the orange one is shorter and more difficult, the blue one is more beautiful (forest, glades, waterfalls, stones). We recommend to everyone the blue one: simple, beautiful, well marked - you will not go astray.

It is very pleasant to say hello to the people whom you meet on the mountain, to talk, this is a moment of unity.

- Will you return there to still reach the top and see the observatory?

To be honest, even the next day I wanted to try to climb there again, but everyone had to return to Minsk. On the way, I realized that my legs were already falling off of habit. And when we returned, I really wanted to go again and finish what we had begun.

People in the Carpathians are special, very reserved. We ran out of time to get to know them even better. I cannot imagine how I could live there. Life in the mountains must be approached with courage. Upon arrival, many participants became interested in learning more about these places - recently they organized a joint screening of the film "Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors" by Parajanov.

We returned home through Bukovel - the road there turned out to be better. Everyone managed to collect souvenirs at the market (woolen socks, local herbal collection). We also stopped at the beautiful Guk waterfall and a local brewery. Here is a video filmed by one of the participants in the trip.

A photo: archive of heroes.

We left Kiev early in the morning. On the way we were accompanied by drizzling rain, gray landscapes were changing outside the window ... We flew to Exactly in one breath, but then the route was only in places with four lanes, and we often had to follow a string of trucks.

The cultural capital greeted us, oddly enough, with the sun! Considering this as a good sign, we set off towards the mountains. The destination was the village of Volosyanka, Lviv region, next to the famous ski resort Slavske.

As soon as the flat terrain began to give way to hilly, it immediately became more beautiful outside the window, and more dangerous on the highway. After all, there was already a slight frost in the mountains and the asphalt was covered with a crust of ice. Fortunately, the ContiViking Contact 6 winter tires cope well with such conditions. But you should still keep the speed lower, slow down in advance, and turn the steering wheel smoother.

And here we are! The road took about 13 hours. In the summer season, we would spend about 9, but winter requires carefulness and reduced speed. There are mountains and snow around, and a lift is already working nearby. Ski and snowboard season is open! The next day we rode around a bit and decided to have a picnic for ourselves - we had a barbecue on the grill. In the hotel where we were staying there was a specially designated place for this with a supply of firewood, and in the nearest store there was excellent meat.

The second day in the Carpathians turned out to be the hardest and coolest at the same time. We decided to test ourselves, our car and tires in an adult way, and set off on a snowy mountain road. The main goal is to drive by short, but frankly bad roads to Synevyr Lake.

The locals looked at us with shocked looks and almost twisted their fingers to their temples. According to them, “they drive UAZs here in the summer” and our Suzuki Vitara has nothing to do here. We, too, were prepared for the fact that at any moment we would have to run to the village for a tractor or "shishiga", but the car was driving. I rode winter road tires, but all-wheel drive connected by a multi-plate clutch!

Of course, several times you still had to stop and wait for the transmission to cool down. But I didn't have to use third-party help! Only twice did we use track links and a sapper shovel.

We reached Synevyr when it was already getting dark - the daylight is short now. When we stopped in front of the gate, which opens the last kilometer of the road to the lake itself, an off-road vehicle was standing in front of us. The protection of the reserve said that it was impossible to go upstairs, the guys on the "rogue" turned around, but we still took the risk! As a result, to the amazement of all the employees, our team made the climb and the Vitara became the first car in a week that was able to get there!



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We got to the place of lodging along the tracks. But I had to spend the same 7 hours on the road. Heavy snowfalls did not allow trucks to overcome the passes, almost all roads were blocked. After standing in traffic jams for many hours, we finally got to the hotel. And the next day we went back.

I didn't want to leave the Carpathians. As soon as the mountainous landscape changed to flat, we all became a little sad. After all, as you know, only mountains can be better than mountains! But we managed to bring winter and snow with us to Kiev. Even if this creates difficulties for traffic, the fabulous New Year's atmosphere has finally reached Kiev.

And in order to fully experience all the emotions that we received during our trip, watch the video from “First Automobile”:

What you need to take if you are going to the mountains

When you go to the mountains, you need to be prepared for the fact that traffic there, especially in winter, is much more difficult than in flat areas. Don't even try to go on such a winter trip on bad tires!

If they are already pretty worn out, they should be replaced. We installed brand new Continental Conti VikingContact6 winter tires a long time ago and they met and even exceeded our expectations when they demonstrated excellent results not only on the winter track, but also off-road, for which they are not intended.

If you are going to drive on roads that are "not really expensive" - \u200b\u200bbe sure to bring snow chains. Find a place in the trunk for a sapper shovel - this simple device can be indispensable in snowy weather. Tracks help to get out of loose snow very well.

At the same time, the main thing is not to save money - ours, which, according to the packaging, are designed for 12.5 tons, broke under 10 times less weight of Vitara. However, they did their job.

Driving features

First of all, take your time! Even if you have a great four-wheel drive car and great winter tires, keep your speed much lower than in summer. After all, if not yours, then another car can suddenly be brought in, turned around, taken out into the oncoming lane.

Think over all your movements in advance, perform all maneuvers smoothly. If, like us, you go off-road, a new, very important rule is added - do not stop! As long as you can keep moving, you must keep moving.

After stopping, you can no longer get under way without outside help. It is very important to find and keep the line between speed, which is enough not to get stuck, and safe speed.

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