Boxes for winter fishing: ready-made and hand-made. Box for winter fishing: types and making it yourself Homemade fishing box for winter fishing

We continue the section on fishing tricks and homemade products for winter fishing:

Probably every beginner in winter fishing is faced with the question: what to go fishing with, and so as not to look worse than his other fellow fishermen. We won’t talk about equipment and various fishing rods and the like here, that’s a different topic.

What I found turned out to be an old refrigerator from the Minsk Refrigerator Plant, and it had not been working for a very long time, although everything made in the former USSR works for a very long time and persistently.

To begin with, I cut off the pipe through which the freon flowed and riveted it. Otherwise, freon would leak out with an unpleasant odor. After this, remove the lower one, i.e. the back wall of the chamber is obtained (by lightly tapping with a mallet it can be easily removed). Next, I took 10 mm plywood, covered with plastic on both sides (Fig. 3) (previously it was a box from some old TV). Of course, it was possible to use ordinary plywood, having previously coated it several times with drying oil or NC varnish, but I had nowhere to put it).

Using a regular pencil, we outline the inner perimeter of the chamber and cut it out with a jigsaw. In my case, the back wall made of tin was not the entire size of the chamber, and besides, there were holes in it, so I decided to cut a sheet of aluminum exactly the same size as plywood with rounded corners. And for better protection from water and aesthetics (no one has yet canceled it), I also cut and bent a standing seam from an aluminum plate along the length of the chamber, but did not rivet it (Fig. 14). After we have prepared the sawn plywood, a sheet with rounded corners and a fold, we begin to assemble our box. First we lay the plywood, then we put a fold on one of the uncovered sides, our pre-cut sheet of aluminum and the entire back side. But I want to warn you that we don’t clamp or rivet the folds here, but leave them the same as they were, we just push them tightly, and to be convincing, you can push them harder a couple of times using light blows of the mallet.

After this, we take a marker or pencil, as you like, and mark the centers of the holes on the folds with the camera box along the perimeter. Using a drill D=3 mm, we drill holes along the pre-marked marks. I got 12 holes around the entire perimeter (Fig. 13). Here we can now secure, but not completely, our bottom of the box.

Now let's move on to the seat. Here I already took 10mm plywood, kept the dimensions so that there would be approximately 5-8mm left on each side at the edges and 10mm wider than the width of the chamber itself, and sawed out the seat with right angles. This was foreseen in advance so that the next time we finished the seat it would be more convenient and easier for us to do it, i.e. lay paralon and line it with leatherette. Lubricate with drying oil or varnish and let dry. On the side where we have a hole left for the pipe, and in my case I made it with the back side of my box, using inexpensive curtains purchased in advance, mark the holes with a marker, use a core punch and drill 4 holes (Fig. 10, 11) (according to the number of holes on two curtains). After we have secured the curtains, we mark the centers of the holes on the plywood seat and also drill holes.

It would be possible to stop here, putting everything together, but the soul requires beauty and convenience. And spontaneously, and there’s no other way to call it, a bright idea came to my mind to create a tray for a fishing rod (Fig. 4, 5, 9), because by simply throwing it in a box we risk breaking it with the things we need for every fishing trip: a slotted spoon for removing ice from the hole, a thermos (by the way, it fit in mine, thanks to the spacious chamber), etc.

And I couldn’t think of anything better, from the same sheet of aluminum that I had left, I drew out a development of the pencil case tray, and having drilled holes on the edges, I screwed it on the inside of the seat, having also drilled holes in advance. Now let's start finishing the seat (Fig. 1, 2). After some grandiose purchase of furniture, like every “plushkin”, I was left with a thin paralon, 1 cm thick. Having cut out 4 pieces of paralon to the size of the plywood seat, we stack one on top of the other. Having cut off a piece of leatherette, on each side 4-6 centimeters larger than the plywood and using a blade to cut holes for the curtains (Fig. 10), which are already permanently screwed to the seat, and having greased the plywood with any rubber glue on the inside, carefully glue the leatherette onto it ( Of course, it would be possible to connect using a stapler).

Rubber glue glues leatherette to plywood well. But if we try to sit down on the seat, we will hear the air coming out of it, and when we get up, we will hear the air coming back in. To eliminate this, you need to carefully lubricate the corners and holes where the curtains are with glue and glue them tightly, and stitch the corners themselves where the leatherette joins with threads, also to reduce hissing. That's it, the seat is ready.

But we don’t need such a wide box with one compartment, so we divide it with the remains of a piece of aluminum into 2 parts in the proportion of 2/3 (Fig. 3, 11, 17), having thought in advance that we have a tray on the seat and therefore a wall for We make the compartments a couple of centimeters lower from the tray, taking into account the fact that to attach the wall to the box you need to leave 1-1.5 cm at the edges (Fig. 12), we bend these edges. And having drilled 2 holes on each side of the drawer and the wall, we screw it on.

To carry the box, we will need a seat belt from any car (Fig. 1) or even a leather belt from an old raincoat (Fig. 16).

But in order to attach it to the box, we make 2 ears from millimeter-sized duralumin (Fig. 7). In pre-drilled boxes on both sides, we attach them with bolts to the box itself. I would like to note that my entire box is assembled with three-piece bolts (the total number of bolts is approximately 30-36 pieces). So, in order to connect the belt and ears, I needed 2 carabiners with wide slots for the belt. You can take them from an old hiking bag.

In general, we could have stopped there, but on ice I want to surprise my colleagues with something, and I came up with the idea of ​​covering the entire body of the box with dark pink leatherette (Fig. 1). To do this, I took a large piece of leatherette and wrapped it around the box, cut it off, then manually, and then stitched it on a sewing machine (Fig. 2). And it turned out like a bottomless bag. Having disconnected the bottom of the box and smeared the edges of the leatherette and the bottom of the box with rubber glue, gluing everything, bending the edge of the leatherette inward and squeezing tightly (Fig. 8, 14), put the bottom back on and now finally connected everything with bolts (Fig. 15).

I also removed the ears for the belt so that they wouldn’t interfere when I pulled the leatherette up, having lubricated it in advance and pressed it tightly for a couple of hours on the top edge of the box. I compressed it using ordinary paper clips, it could have been done with clothespins. After the glue has dried, screw on the ears and seat. As shown in the second version of the box (Fig. 16), you can draw or cut out the capital letters of the first and last name from the remaining piece of leatherette, and there will be a personalized box. Before I had assembled the entire box, I coated the bottom with sealant along the inner perimeter.

Photo:

A do-it-yourself fishing box is the best option for fishermen who are trying, on the one hand, to save the family budget, and on the other hand, to show all their skill and imagination in making various fishing accessories. If in time immemorial only winter boxes were in use, now the situation has changed.

This accessory has become indispensable for those fishing methods when the angler has to stay in one area for a long time, for example, fly fishing, Bolognese fishing, plug fishing, bottom fishing. In all these fishing methods, the box acts not only as a container for storing accessories, but also as a seat.

A summer fishing box is a fairly spacious design, characterized by a large number of departments. The lid often serves as a seat, which is why it is made of soft materials. Since in summer such quality as frost resistance is not required, lighter materials are taken.

A good option is a box made of aluminum alloy. Inside there are compartments of various sizes, in which it is convenient to store elements of equipment, bait, bait, lures, fishing accessories and other elements. An indispensable attribute of the box is a comfortable and very durable handle.

The purpose of this device is to reduce the number of different bags and make transporting fishing equipment comfortable. If you decide to buy a fishing box in a store, then you need to pay attention to the following parameters.

• useful volume of the box;
• its mass;
• resistance to deformation;
• insulating qualities.

For the manufacture of factory containers, various materials are used, which ultimately determine their price category:

1. The lightest and most inexpensive options for boxes are made of polystyrene foam. The downside is that it is easy to deform, and absorbed odors do not dissipate for a long time. On the plus side, the product holds up well in the water.
2. Plastic models that are less susceptible to external influences are more preferable.
3. Some of the heaviest are boxes made of metal alloys. Despite their high cost, they are distinguished by their strength and, accordingly, durability.

It should be remembered that each of the above fishing boxes has disadvantages. Based on this, some anglers prefer to make a fishing box themselves. Used batteries or plastic canisters are used as a basis.

The desire to make this accessory is caused by several motivations: the lack of the necessary model on sale, its high cost, the impossibility of purchasing due to the lack of special stores in the vicinity. In the end, the fisherman decides to start making his own.

To make a fishing box with your own hands, you will need one large and two small canisters, a rubber bath mat, a corner and loops. First, the top of a large canister is cut off, and an aluminum corner is attached along the cut using bolts, which makes the structure rigid.

To equip the interior, you need to build partitions. The lid, which also serves as a seat, can be made of either plastic or plywood. The outer and inner sides of the lid are covered with a mat. Using loops, it is attached to the canister.

We can say that your DIY fishing tackle box is almost ready. To increase its useful volume, you can install small canisters in the tanks, which are cut to the required size. It is also permissible to make covers on them to prevent the loss of fishing accessories and the penetration of dirt.

Well, what is a box without a strong belt. Its width must be chosen so that when carried it does not cut into the shoulder. Such homemade fishing boxes are distinguished by their simplicity of design and ease of manufacture. Despite their apparent lightness, they have sufficient strength during operation.

Some labor-intensive work is required if the container is to be made from an unusable car battery. First you need to select the required battery size. First of all, you will need its body, but the top with a handle can also be adapted.

The electrolyte is removed, the cover is cut off, the contacts and internal partitions are cut off. The extracted lead will be useful for making cargo. The bulkheads are not removed flush; it is necessary to leave two to three centimeters of frames. The resulting box must be thoroughly washed with water and soda, which neutralizes the acidic environment.

The next step is the manufacture of the lid, which is cut to the size of the box from plywood or polystyrene, while the middle of the elongated side is made with a gradual increase in width by 10 cm - this is intended so that you can sit on the box.

Four holes are drilled from the end in one plane, the outermost ones correspond to the holes for the handle cord on the body flange. At the opposite end there are two similar holes for the cord. We change it to a more elongated one so that both handles meet above the lid.

The cord at one end is passed through the holes in the lid. To prevent it from dangling, four pads are glued to the bottom, with which the lid will fit into the body at the corners. On top it is finished with a rubber mat for bathrooms. It is possible to make a simple fastener from ordinary wire.

You can also make a fishing box with your own hands from wooden planks. It is better not to use chipboard in this case, since it is too heavy, swells from moisture, and it is quite difficult to hold it together. For production you need boards, screws, glue and varnish. You can sketch the drawing yourself.

Manufacturing begins with the frame. It is better to use self-tapping screws and glue together. If you coat it only with glue, it is difficult to achieve the strength of the box; if you fasten it with self-tapping screws, the tightness will suffer. Therefore, the best option is to coat the elements with glue and tighten them with self-tapping screws.

A homemade fishing box does not exist without a lid, which, with certain skills, is also not difficult to make. True, you need to decide on its type - whether it will be hinged or simply removable. If you decide to make a removable one, then cut it out of a board smaller than the base. The finished lid can be covered with leatherette, which will give the box an airtight seal.

The lid under the hinges will look slightly different, and the box will begin to resemble a small chest. In this case, you will have to take care of the latch. It can be made from any available means, for example, from wire. The trouser belt fastener also serves as a latch perfectly.

Inside, using the same planks, the homemade box is divided into compartments. Some fishermen place one of the containers directly under the lid, resulting in a small mini-box that can be easily removed from the main box.

After completing all the work, you need to think about covering the box. In principle, it doesn’t need to be varnished, but the wood absorbs water very well and when the board dries, it begins to warp and warp. In addition, wood absorbs not only water, but also foreign odors, which are subsequently difficult to get rid of. So it is recommended to cover the product with two or three layers of varnish.

An excellent box for winter fishing is obtained from the freezer compartment of the refrigerator. It is lightweight and durable. Depending on the size of the chamber, the output may be either one large or two small boxes. There is only one problem left to solve - finding an unnecessary refrigerator.

• We remove the chamber from the refrigerator, remove all the tubes. Next, we proceed to forming the bottom. An aluminum sheet or simple galvanized iron is suitable for its manufacture. To secure it, a side is formed on the sheet, which is attached to the walls using rivets.
• The second option for making the bottom is plywood, which is pre-treated with several layers of varnish. They fasten it with self-tapping screws. In both cases, it is necessary to pay attention to the joints, which are coated with sealant or silicone.
• Next, making the fishing box is easier. The lid is made in the same way as the bottom from plywood, however, it should be a couple of millimeters larger than the perimeter of the box so as not to fall through.
• The lid is connected to the box using small hinges. They are screwed to the plywood with self-tapping screws, to the box - with small bolts or fixed with rivets.
• To install the belt, paired holes are drilled on the sides. A steel wire is inserted into them, to which the belt is attached. By the way, a wonderful strap comes out of a car seat belt.

Do-it-yourself winter fishing boxes bring incredible pleasure to the craftsman, because, in accordance with your imagination, you can actually make excellent and pragmatic designs. And having completed the production of a box today, tomorrow it can be easily modified and improved.

A fishing box is one of the main attributes of every winter fisherman. It is convenient to store and carry gear in it, and it also provides comfort during fishing. The box serves as a seat, protects the hole from the wind, and plays the role of fish storage. Different models of fishing boxes are presented in stores, but finding a suitable option on sale is not always easy. Models presented for sale often turn out to be inconvenient and require improvement. Therefore, many fishermen prefer to make their own box for winter fishing with their own hands.

You can make a good one with your own hands from the freezer of an old refrigerator. It can be an ideal base, as it is quite durable, light in weight and not subject to rust. To make a box out of a freezer, you need:

• attach the bottom to it;
• make one or more partitions inside;
• install the cover;
• attach the carrying strap.

A galvanized steel sheet is suitable for making the bottom and partition. You need to cut out blanks from it and secure them with bolts and nuts. Also, if possible, they can be mounted on rivets.

Another option is to make the bottom and partition from a sheet of plywood at least a centimeter thick. To install them, you must use self-tapping screws. If plywood is used, it must be varnished in at least two layers so that it does not get wet. The junction of the plywood bottom and the walls of the box should be coated with sealant or glue.

It is better to make the lid from thick plywood. Having cut out a workpiece of a suitable shape using a jigsaw or hacksaw, it must be mounted on hinges. They are attached to the plywood lid using self-tapping screws, and to the walls of the box - with the same rivets or bolts. To make it comfortable to sit on such a box for winter fishing, you can also glue a sheet of foam or polyurethane to the lid, covering them with fabric if desired.

In the same way, if desired, you need to mount a lock with which the box can be locked so that it does not open at the most inopportune moment. To secure the belt, you need to make a couple of holes on each side of the box and insert wire ears into them.

DIY ice fishing box made from a canister

A large canister would be a good base for a box for winter fishing. Its size must be selected based on the required dimensions of the box.

• The first step is to cut off the top of the canister so that you get a kind of container.
• Then you need to strengthen the upper part by attaching a strip of metal to it along the entire perimeter of the canister.
• The thick plywood lid must be made and mounted in the same way as in the case of a freezer box. The loops for it can be attached to the walls of the canister using bolts and nuts or self-tapping screws.

The lid can be finished with foam or polyurethane on top. To attach the belt, you need to make ears from wire, as in the case of a freezer box.

There is another option. The role of the lid can be performed by the upper part of the canister, cut in a special way. You need to make two parallel cuts on both sides, and then another one in the center. This way the top of the canister will be divided into two parts. You can fix this lid in the closed position by screwing the canister cap. The seat can be attached to such a box with Velcro. To do this, you need to glue two strips with hairs to it, and strips with hooks to the top of the canister.

You can also attach a pocket to such a plastic box, which is suitable for storing various fishing items that should always be at hand when fishing. The easiest option is to make it from another smaller canister, cutting it accordingly, and then mounting it on the box using a furniture stapler, rivets or bolts and nuts. The pocket can also be made from any suitable sheet of plastic, for example from a cheap plastic cutting board.

DIY wooden box for winter fishing

Another option is to make a box for winter fishing from plywood and wood. It should be borne in mind that such options are heavy, so they are not very convenient to use.

The first step is to prepare a drawing, indicating on it the desired dimensions of the future box. Then you need to cut out blanks for the walls, bottom, lid and partitions from plywood.

The plywood box for winter fishing itself is assembled on a wooden frame, which can be made from square bars with a cross-section of about 3x3 cm.

Internal partitions can be fixed in grooves that need to be cut into the walls. They can also be attached to wooden blocks of a smaller cross-section than those used to make the frame of the box.

Ice fishing box made of polystyrene foam

Another good material for making a box is extruded polystyrene foam. The main advantages of this material, which is used in construction:

• light weight - the weight of the finished box does not exceed a kilogram;
• high strength - a polystyrene foam box can withstand 150 kg of weight;
• moisture resistance;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• good thermal insulation properties - in summer the box made of polystyrene foam can be used as a refrigerator bag.

Extruded polystyrene foam does not get wet and is easy to clean. Thanks to its high thermal insulation properties, it is comfortable to sit on in any frost. In addition to the material itself, to make the box you will need:

liquid Nails;

a hacksaw, a stationery knife or a regular kitchen knife;

• screwdriver and wood screws;

You need to cut blanks from expanded polystyrene to make the bottom, walls and lid of the box, and then make grooves in them to securely fasten the entire structure. In the bottom they should be located on all four sides, and in the walls - only on three. You can make grooves using a knife or hacksaw. You can securely glue the bottom and walls using liquid nails. To make the structure even stronger, they also need to be fastened with self-tapping screws.

The lid of such a fishing box can be made from the same polystyrene foam, making grooves on its four sides so that it fits tightly. In this case, there is no need to fasten it on hinges.

To secure the belt holders, you can use two rectangular pieces of thick plywood. One of them should be located on the outside of the box, and the second on the inside. The holders are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the points extending inside the box must be sawed off with a hacksaw. Such fastenings must be placed strictly in the middle of each of the end parts of the box.

If desired, the assembled structure can be painted from a can with any paint to give it a more presentable look.

Additional details

To prevent the ice fishing box from slipping and falling off your shoulder when carrying it, you need to glue a piece of soft rubber or similar material to its strap. This could be a piece of a bicycle or car inner tube, a polyurethane mat, or a neoprene weight loss belt. If you glue such a lining to your belt, you won’t have to be distracted and suffer because the box constantly slides off your shoulder when moving to the fishing spot and moving from hole to hole.

For convenient storage, two elastic straps can be attached to the lid. The gear secured in them will not take up space in the box itself, and will not knock against each other or other fishing accessories when carried.

To make fishing more comfortable, you can place mounts for gear on the outside of the box. Plumbing brackets are well suited for their manufacture. It is necessary to cut off their anchor part, and then fix them with self-tapping screws, running them from the inside of the box. In this case, the brackets themselves will act as nuts.

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DIY winter fishing box

Winter fishing requires a convenient and spacious box. Fishing rods, boxes with lures and baits, a thermos with a hot drink, fish, a hook and other fishing accessories are placed in it.

You can make a good fishing box with your own hands. In this article we will consider in detail the process of its manufacture. We will indicate what materials and tools will be required for such work.

Step-by-step process for making a winter box with photos

How to make a box with your own hands? We will make it from wood with dimensions of 45x39x23 cm. It will be closed with a lid-box with compartments inside. On top of the lid we will attach a seat made of a special filler, which we will cover with soft leatherette. We will make the walls of the box from seven-layer plywood. We will fill the planks on each side, and on the sides there will be timber measuring 6 cm wide for reinforcement.

The result should be a box like this.

Let's pay attention to the locks. They can be purchased in specialized stores. We will fasten the locks with strong screws, as shown in the photo.

The lid opens thanks to the following hinges:

We will fasten these hinges with screws. They will allow the lid to open completely. We will nail oak runners to the bottom of the box.

We will make the runners from timber with dimensions of 20x20 cm. We will fasten them with screws. The runners will allow you to drag the box across the ice. This is very convenient in cases where you have to travel long distances. Another plus about them is that the bottom will not come into contact with snow and ice. Oak slats are very hard and do not absorb practically moisture, hold their shape well and do not rot.

The inside of the box looks like this:

We see that there are metal grooves attached to the sides. We fasten them with thin self-tapping screws. You can insert plywood into these grooves, and thus get partitions. It is very comfortable. We will get three branches. In one you can place fish, boxes of bait and groundbait, and in the second - boxes of bait, a thermos and other accessories. The small one can accommodate fishing rods. This is the internal configuration of a hand-made box:

We will make a hole on one of the sides through which we will throw the fish.

We will use a belt like this:

You can use a belt from an old bag that has already become unusable. We will attach it to the box using this loop:

We tighten this element with three screws or self-tapping screws.

We attach 10 mm thick polyethylene foam insulation to the lid using waterproof glue. It does not allow moisture to pass through and is quite soft.

We cover the top of the insulation with dermantin:

We will make the dermantine coating in this way:

This cover can be stapled to the sides of the box using a nail gun. The result is a reliable design.

We coat the resulting fishing box with our own hands with waterproof varnish in two layers. You can use parquet varnish. We make sure that all elements and sides are carefully coated.

When opened, the box looks like this:

We will make the lid in the form of a box 6 cm high. Additional compartments can be made inside it. To do this, we will also make grooves into which the plywood is inserted. We fasten the plywood on top so that we get sashes. We attach special clamps to the sides, and screw the handles on top with self-tapping screws. The result will be approximately the same design as in bedside tables. To open the sash, you need to pull the handle. In these compartments you can store elements of fishing equipment.

As you can see, we have a completely functional and spacious box. Now we know how to make a fishing box for winter fishing with our own hands.

Conclusion about the winter fishing box

This box will serve you for more than one season. An inspection is required at the end of each season. If necessary, the box should be re-varnished. Such actions will significantly prolong his life.

I found seven-layer plywood for the sides where the belts are attached. Three-layer
plywood on the front, back walls, bottom, top, as well as on the internal
partitions and false panels, which are wind shields

and to cover the hole for throwing in fish,

I also use it as a tabletop for dining.

Recreational fishing is recreation, not poaching.
To strengthen the box I used a pine plank, width – 60mm.,
thickness – 10mm, total length – 3.5m, (pine is a lightweight material). From
planks made frames for the lid and reinforced the drawer on top in order to
securely fasten awnings and latches. Bottom for attaching plywood
bottom, as well as to hold the shields.

There are also two slats (runners) at the bottom.

from well-dried young
oak - very hard, does not get wet in water, does not even absorb varnish (on
it was impossible to saw with a circular saw - the saw was burning, the saw was heating up), I had to
saw by hand slowly, size: 20 x 15mm. - 2 pieces. These runners
strengthen the bottom, the plywood does not get wet, as you know, there is always water around the hole,
and moving around is easy.

I cut the plywood and plank to size. I sanded the edges with a sanding knife. Before,
how to knock down coated with PVA glue - carpentry glue that is not afraid of moisture after
drying. I nailed the plywood, and also coated the plank with glue,
fastened it with long, thin screws (before that I drilled a hole in
seven-layer plywood). The front and back plywood were pushed out at the top by 5mm.

to ensure that the lid holds tightly and does not move to the sides
and didn't get loose. For the internal partitions I made a small profile from tin,

which he riveted to the walls. Plywood partitions are inserted into these profiles

for vents and thermos. For prevention in
the drawer can be easily removed with partitions and free access to all corners

Lid.
I smeared the joints of the planks with glue and screwed them together, and nailed the plywood
nails, marked where to put the partitions, nailed the profile

where should the plywood be installed? These partitions were fixed with cotter pins

with a profile so that they don’t fall out. I made the cells so that there was room
for vents and thermos.

Covers for storage cells for winter fishing rods,
spinning rods and small accessories (spinners, jigs, depth gauge,
release, hooks). I made homemade loops (curtains) that are attached to
pins, and at the top there are latches made of tin.

The lid was placed on special hinges,

which provide an opportunity
open to 102°.

This is so that the lid does not tear off the hinges,

did not knock over the box and did not break the strips on which they are attached.
I fastened it not with screws, but with screws, replaced the nuts with metal ones
threaded plates,

This way it holds better and doesn’t become loose.

Fish drop hole

cut it out in advance with a jigsaw, in
on the inside I glued and nailed a circle from seven-layer plywood

with a hole cut out for throwing in fish, and the inner side
cut it into a cone so that it could be clamped with a special clamp

polythene bag, which has a lock at the top, clamped it with a clip and
I cut a hole in the bag where the fish will be thrown in. If you caught a fish
large - you could stretch the lock

and throw in the fish. Any package can be used.

The belt was used from an army phone,

anyone can do it
length. To attach the belt, I made half rings on the box

With
fastening and screwed it with screws, instead of nuts - threaded plates

And
I inserted a belt there, it is easily adjustable to any length on both sides. A
also for closing the drawer - two latches (locks)

screwed it on
to threaded plates.

For the seat I used synthetic insulation - polyethylene foam (PPE),
thickness – 10mm.

it does not absorb moisture and does not get wet when glued
double-sided tape.

I sewed a cover from dermantine,

he is not afraid of moisture. I tied a rope below

and pulled it together, holds it tight, doesn’t
slips. If necessary, all this can be easily changed. You can also nail it
parentheses.

As soon as the box was knocked down and all the internal partitions were in place, she approached
turn to varnish. I bought Almaz parquet varnish with acidic
hardener.

I freely removed all the partitions from the box.

And I varnished them twice separately. Once everything is dry, all partitions
put it in place and fixed it.

And I cut out a container from foam plastic
according to the size of the thermos, and placed it in the cell of the box where the thermos will stand.

Before varnishing, the weight of the box is 3.5 kg, after varnishing, the box
became 0.8 kg. heavier. This varnish is not afraid of moisture. Yes, it turned out a bit heavy
but it’s convenient. Whatever we take on fishing trips, we load it all into the box.

The box is ready for winter fishing.

I’ve been going fishing with this box since 2000, it’s been through snowstorms, frosts,
rain and slush - the plywood does not peel off or get wet, thanks to the runners and
varnish.
After fishing, he took off the bag of fish and handed it to his wife, and he took the wet one.
a cloth, wiped the hole where I threw in the fish, and there was no smell in the box
no fish.
Zherlitsy: 8 pieces, these are of the old type, take up little space and they are always in
box. I caught pike up to 8 kg with them. weight, convenient for fishing (do not describe
I will, they are on the Internet).
I made fishing hooks from a folding umbrella, one from a store-bought one
hook, extends - pulled the hook and handle until it clicks, removes
cap from the hook tip, ready for use. Working length – 58 cm,
transport – 28 cm, weight – 68 grams.
And the other with a hook made of copper-plated steel wire to open
- took it by the handle, and stuck the other side into the ice, the sting came out with a cork
handles, folded the hook along the tube so that it would snap into place, and hooked it with the sting
the edge of the hole, pulled it all the way until it snaps into place. The hook is ready to go.
Working length – 97 cm, transport length – 42 cm, weight – 145 grams.
Tested for strength - they freely and easily lift a 10 liter bucket with
water. They are convenient, efficient and take up little space.
I made the skimmer myself from soft aluminum, the handle is from bamboo, it’s light and comfortable
at work.
Good luck with your winter fishing!