Istanbul restaurants and cafes. Where to eat inexpensively in Istanbul and what you should definitely try Where to eat seafood in Istanbul

Istanbul evokes strong associations among Russians with "shoppers" who flood our bazaars and convenience stores with winter clothes with their imports. There is nothing wrong with this, in general. In our climate, fur coats are needed. Associations also arise with Turkish builders who built up half of Moscow and revived the Cathedral of Christ the Savior. Thanks to the Turks, Moscow once again confirmed the status of a super-city, where there is something that is not found anywhere else. Neither in New York, nor in Paris, nor in Tokyo are there high-rise stores selling sheepskin coats 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and a very large remodeled cathedral.

Of course, almost all of us know that in addition to sheepskin coats, Istanbul also has Hagia Sophia and other masterpieces of architecture, magnificent museums, and an incredible old market. We know that Istanbul is the only big city located on two continents, that its historical center is located on the shores of the Golden Horn, that it was the capital of Byzantium, the Ottoman Empire, that Christianity came to Rus' from there.

But Istanbul is not limited to all this. This city is one of the greatest in the world: without visiting it, you cannot think that you have seen what you need to see in life. It's not just about its ancient history and the magnificence of its monuments. Istanbul is a powerful node of vital energy. And it strikes in any season, in any weather. So, when planning your travels, be sure to think about a trip to the banks of the Golden Horn.

We will not try to tell in this article where to go in Istanbul. There are so many routes that their description would take dozens of pages. Everyone, once in this amazing city on the Bosphorus, will surely find something to their liking. Travel agencies organize excursions for you, and you can also find many guidebooks in bookstores. By the way, quite a decent guide in Russian has recently been published. But it is worth preparing a little in advance so as not to feel like a blind kitten in a seething and very diverse Istanbul.

How to move?

There is no metro in Istanbul - unfortunately. There are several tram lines. There are buses, but it is very difficult for a visitor to understand their trajectories and schedule. Minibuses also travel around the city, something like our fixed-route taxis, but they have the same problems as with ordinary buses. So, if you need to get somewhere that is too far to walk, use a taxi. There are many of them, they are all yellow, all are equipped with a counter. And, what is most pleasant, they are very cheap according to Moscow standards. The fare usually costs two or three dollars; a trip from end to end of Istanbul (and this is a big city) will cost you ten at the most. The only thing is to make sure that the driver turns on the meter. The vast majority of taxi drivers are honest people, but occasionally there are crooks. Try to pronounce the address clearly, and even better - write it on a piece of paper, indicating the city area: there are hundreds of streets and tiny alleys in Istanbul. Most people in Istanbul at the very least speak English, German or French, and in recent years more and more people are beginning to understand Russian.

To cross the Sea of ​​Marmara and go to the Asian part of the city, take a ferry or boat. They depart from several marinas in different parts of Istanbul. On the water it is worth taking a walk along the Bosphorus towards the Black Sea. Or take a ride to the Princes' Islands.

But in general, in Istanbul, if you want to know it better, you have to walk. The historical part is not so great, you can go through it in a day. Don't be afraid to get lost: the tourist maps are very detailed, and besides, the people of Istanbul are generally friendly and will gladly show you the way. Wandering the streets and lanes, climbing the steep stairs leading to the tops of the Istanbul hills, relaxing in the quiet squares adjacent to the mosques, you will feel the atmosphere of this amazing and incredibly diverse city.

Where to live?

There are hundreds of hotels in Istanbul, and their range is very wide. These include international five-star hotels like Marriott and Kempinski, and modest small hotels scattered throughout the city. The most fashionable international hotels are located in the "European" part of the old city, in the areas of Pera and Taksim, as well as near the Dolma Bakhce Palace. In Pera, for example, there is the legendary "Pera Palace", built at the beginning of the century especially for passengers of the Orient Express, famous by Agatha Christie. Here, in the Taksim area, there are comfortable hotels "Imperial", "Marmara", "Nippon", "Green Park" and "Golden Age". In the "old" part, on the opposite bank of the Golden Horn, there are several amazing small and not very expensive hotels. Almost all of them were rebuilt from old city mansions (in Turkish - "konak"). They have preserved or restored magnificent interiors that combine comfort and local flavor. They have all the modern comforts. Of the former Konaks that the correspondents of "i" liked, we will first of all mention Ayasofia Pansiyonlari: an enfilade of nine old houses attached to the wall of the Top-Kapy sultan's palace. Amazingly romantic place. Not far from "Little Hagia Sophia" (the churches of Saints Sergius and Bacchus) there are two wonderful "konakas" - Amber and Turkuaz. They got lost among the narrow streets of old Istanbul, the Sea of ​​Marmara is visible from the windows, and the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Top Kapi are within a five-minute walk. In the Sultanahmet area, we recommend the Acropolis Hotel. In the outskirts, next to the Church of Chora (Kariye Jami), world famous for its mosaics, in a quiet and green quarter, located on a hill above the Golden Horn, is the Kariye Hotel. Great place for a quiet time. "Out of the way" means a forty-minute walk from the center. However, if you feel homesick already at the Istanbul airport, it is not necessary to return home. You can settle in the Laleli area, occupied by "shopniks". Most of the inscriptions here are in Russian, Turkish is rarely heard. But the question arises: is it worth leaving the motherland? You can just go hang out at the Dynamo clothing market.

freely convertible

The Turkish lira is almost the smallest currency in the world, one US dollar costs about 240,000 lira. You can change it right at the airport, but in the city, especially in tourist areas, there are many exchange offices. Naturally, you can also change cash at the hotel. The black market is almost non-existent. In large shops and restaurants, of course, credit cards are accepted for payment. But the situation with ATMs is not so good. But quite often you can pay in dollars or German marks. Useful advice: carefully monitor the number of zeros on banknotes. From astronomical sums, wild even for the usual Russians, the "roof" sometimes "rides", and you risk paying ten times more than necessary.

What to eat and drink?

Turkish cuisine is part of the "Mediterranean", that is, it does not differ much from Greek, Balkan - and even Armenian or Georgian. The meal in Turkey is divided into appetizers ("meze"), the main course and all kinds of desserts. "Meze" is salads, olives, pickled vegetables, spicy cheese, mushrooms, anchovies or sardines and more. "Meze" can be both cold and hot. In winter, Turks often eat soup - "chorba" from lentils, tomatoes or other vegetables. An indispensable dish is a cold chowder "jajik" made from ayran (a kind of fermented milk product), cucumbers, herbs and garlic. By the way, ayran, diluted with mineral water, is a very tasty drink and perfectly quenches thirst. In addition, the Turks love "borek" - small fried pies, usually stuffed with cottage cheese or soft spicy cheese. It's actually very tasty. Turks are traditionally pastoralists, so their cuisine has a lot of lamb and beef dishes, as well as poultry. These, of course, are all kinds of shish kebabs, dozens of types of "kebap" (chopped or finely chopped meat with spices) and "kyufte" - small round cutlets. It is impossible to imagine Turkish cuisine without "dolma", and this is not only stuffed cabbage from grape leaves with vegetable or minced meat. "Dolma" simply means "filled", so the concept of "dolma" includes stuffed tomatoes, quince, zucchini, eggplant.

In Turkey, perfectly, albeit without any frills, they cook dishes from fish and various "fruits of the sea" - the Black Sea, the Marmara and Mediterranean Seas abound with them. Here and mullet, and red mullet, and stingray, and swordfish, and flounder, and God knows what else. And mussels, and oysters, and squids, and cuttlefish, and octopuses, and lobsters, and many varieties of shrimp. Sea food, like everywhere else in the world, is somewhat more expensive than meat food in Istanbul. It is necessary to take into account one feature of Turkish fish restaurants: the menu does not indicate the cost of the dish, but the price per kilogram of one or another marine life. You yourself choose the fish that you like, and pay depending on how much it pulls.

As for Turkish sweets, they are magnificent, although somewhat heavy - as, indeed, almost all oriental confectionery.

The opinion has taken root that the Turks are masters of coffee. Actually this is not true. Really good coffee in Istanbul is not so easy to find - only in expensive cafes and restaurants. Turks hardly drink coffee. But liters absorb tea. They drink it from small tulip-shaped cups called "chayybardak" (remember that a glass in Turkish is a "brothel". And a bus stop, by the way, is a "fool"). An Istanbul citizen can drink more than thirty such "mess" in a day. And the streets are pacing tea merchants, "chaichi", carrying this national drink on special trays. Sometimes you can meet peddlers of tea with carts on which something like a samovar is hoisted. In general, it turns out that the samovar was invented not by the Russians, but by the Turks. At the same time, Turkish tea does not differ in special qualities. We brew it better.

As for alcoholic beverages, do not forget that Turkey is still a Muslim country. Although there are no prohibitions on alcohol here and the locals are not distinguished by absolute sobriety, alcohol is still not an important part of the culture. The main national strong drink is anise vodka "raki", which is supposed to be drunk mixed with cold water (like the Greek "mastic" or the French "pastis"). Turkish vodka is of disgusting quality, we do not recommend trying it. And the wines are quite acceptable, although, of course, they do not reach French or Spanish heights. Perhaps the best is the red "Villa Doludzha". Turkish beer is also not bad. So do not disdain the brands "Efes" and "Astika".

Multiple addresses. If you want to taste real Turkish cuisine, then go to one of the "locant" - the so-called traditional restaurants. One of the very pleasant institutions of this type is "Hamdi" in the Eminonu area. The specialty of this locanta is "Testi kebapi", a dish of meat and vegetables baked in a jar. The owner before your eyes beats off the neck with a special mallet. The spectacle is entertaining, the taste is magnificent. Also Turkish cuisine, but Europeanized and more sophisticated, we advise you to try it in the wonderful Asitane restaurant in the Kariye hotel. Dolma and stuffed quince, as well as flounder "salt" - fantastic. The interiors of the restaurant are just as good, as is the adjoining garden. A very cozy place is a small restaurant "Altyn Kupa" ("Golden Corkscrew") on Sultan Ahmet Yerebatan Jaddesi, next to Hagia Sophia. The food is quite correct, the atmosphere is very friendly. We also recommend "Sarnich" in the Nisantasi area: amazing fried meat, offal stew, old interiors and real folk music. If you want to immerse yourself in the atmosphere of the Russian emigration of the 20s, visit the Régence in Galata. Nearby, at the beginning of Istiklal Street, there is a restaurant "Chichek", specializing in both meat and fish dishes. Interiors in the spirit of the beginning of the century help to enjoy food. But to eat seafood, it is better to go to a specialized fish restaurant. Most of them are concentrated in two places, near the two main Istanbul fish markets. The first one is in Karakoy, at the foot of Galata. Here is the famous for several decades "Chiftnal". And in another part of the city, near the coast of the Sea of ​​Marmara, in the Kum-Kapy area, on Telli Odalar Street, there are about a hundred fish restaurants. It's hard to choose, but they all seem to be very good. If you want to have a fish breakfast in the early morning, the best place is "Havuzbashi", located right on the shore of the Sea of ​​Marmara, in the center of the Kum-Kapy fish market. Around - shopping arcades with incredible still lifes of sea creatures, the sea splashes, fishermen unload boats, clouds of seagulls, raising a deafening clamor, rush in the air ...

Well, if you just want to have a cup of coffee or tea in a beautiful place, then we advise you to visit the Citadel, a cafe located in the garden of the Top Kapi Palace, above the Bosphorus. Not far, on the very edge of the cape, there is a large tea house "Khalidzh" ("Golden Horn"). The view of the Bosphorus and the Sea of ​​Marmara from there is breathtaking. At the other end of the city, in the suburbs of Eyüp Sultan, on a high hill overlooking a magnificent architectural medieval complex, the Pierre Loti cafe, named after a French engineer who settled in Istanbul at the end of the last century and loved this place, stuck his head. View from the terrace of the cafe - the whole city, the sea, the Bosphorus.

In Istanbul restaurants, you will be pleasantly surprised by the prices. Russians, who have already ceased to be amazed at the cosmic figures in our new Russian "public catering", will be amazed that in a good restaurant it is difficult to spend more than fifty dollars for a dinner for two with wine. Usually it costs even two or three times cheaper. Of course, there are establishments in Istanbul where you will be charged big money. But this applies to specifically tourist restaurants, as well as those hot places where, unfortunately, they are used to domestic "brothers" who do not count money and do not understand what is happening around them. So do not fall into excessive patriotism and avoid places where Russian dialect drowns out other languages. But in Istanbul you can eat quite decently for three to five dollars for two. To do this, there are hundreds of "kebap-salon" and "buffet", where shish kebab, kyufte, chicken, soup, and meze, not being high culinary masterpieces, will still not deceive your stomach.

Usually the price of the service is included in the bill. But if you don't feel offended, it's customary to leave another 10% for a tip.

Go shopping

Istanbul is a trading city. Surely you will not return from it without your luggage gaining weight. And you can find almost anything there. Nevertheless, it is hardly worth buying clothes from famous European companies, Swiss watches or expensive perfumes here. Their prices are not lower than in Moscow, and the choice is no more. Likewise with cheap consumer goods. At retail, you can buy the same and the same disgusting quality for no more expensive in domestic markets.

Traditionally, in Istanbul it is customary to buy antiques, carpets, leather, ceramics, all kinds of coinage, spices. And, of course, small souvenirs. And you can do it in a thousand places.

You certainly will not miss the Great Covered Bazaar, this is a miracle of oriental trade with its kilometer-long vaulted streets and countless shops and stalls. Here you can buy anything. With patience, a good eye and the ability to bargain, it is possible that you will be able to buy very valuable things. Although, of course, antique treasures are extremely rare on the market, so do not expect to buy a museum-quality carpet here, worth several tens of thousands of dollars at SothebyXs, for two or three hundred. But all sorts of funny and very beautiful knick-knacks, jewelry, leather goods, fabrics, and so on can be found. Don't forget to bargain. With skill, you can cut the scene in half, or even three times. Please note that in Istanbul, when shopping, you have to bargain everywhere, except for European supermarkets and small food stalls.

Next to the Blue Mosque is the Arasta carpet and leather market. We advise you to walk along it and admire it, but not to buy it. Prices here are phenomenally inflated and designed for silly American and Japanese tourists. In general, innumerable shops throughout the city sell carpets, leather, ceramics, national clothes and all sorts of souvenirs. Traditional leather goods (shoes, bags, clothes) of very high quality and at very reasonable prices are sold, for example, in the Pekcan store on Alemdar street near Hagia Sophia. On the contrary, in the shop "Otag" they sell cassettes with real Turkish music and folk musical instruments. One of the attractions of this institution is the chicken coop on the second floor. And a very good and inexpensive pottery shop, "Fettah", is located next to the Kariye church.

If you are interested in the works of modern Turkish designers, then you need to go to the Taksim district and Istiklal Street. Here you will find quite expensive but good boutiques selling shoes, clothing, household items and fashion jewelry. But middle-class Istanbulites prefer to shop for clothes, bags and shoes in Zeytinburnu, on the outskirts of the city, on their way to the airport. The prices here are lower and the quality is high.

Be sure to also visit the Egyptian market in the Eminonu area - the kingdom of spices. From the fragrances that have soaked the air, the head is spinning, and what is there just not here! The only problem when buying - half of the herbs, spices and other wonders of nature you do not know what to do with them - it is not clear. Another place where you can also buy spices and real Turkish soap, famous since the Middle Ages, as well as fine natural sponges, is the shops on Yenicherleri Street, next to the University.

And you can buy a folk Turkish hat made of carpet fabric, a felt fez, silk scarves and, of course, an obligatory Istanbul souvenir - a glass blue-white-yellow circle, an amulet from the evil eye, you can buy at almost every corner.

How to have fun?

There are entertainments that are harmful to health, but there are very useful ones. Certainly useful is the Turkish bath, hammam. Invented its prototype, "terms", even the ancient Romans. The Turks brought him to perfection. We will not describe the pleasure that the hammam brings. This was brilliantly done by Pushkin in his Journey to Arzrum. Let's just say: do not deny yourself this bliss. There are several dozen hammams in Istanbul. The most famous among foreigners - respectively, the most expensive - "Chagaloglu Hammam", located on Kazim Gurkan Caddesi, but there are several others, cheaper, where you can completely relax or undergo the brutal pleasure of a brilliant Turkish massage. For example: "Chamberlitash Hammam" (at Vezirkhan Caddesi) or "Galatasaray Hammam" (at Turnadzhibashi Sokak). In addition, many hotels have their own hammams.

Less useful, but still necessary entertainment - nightclubs with "belly dancing" and Turkish dances and songs. How to visit Istanbul and not immerse yourself in the magical atmosphere of oriental buzz? Of course, such performances are designed primarily for tourists, but you should not refuse. The most famous places are Galata Tower Night Club, located in the ancient Galata tower, "Kervansaray" (Elmadag street) and Orient House (Beyazit street). The cost of the evening includes dinner (quite average, but you don’t go there to eat) and drinks. For an hour and a half, you will be shown "folk" dances from different regions of Turkey, and half-naked beauties will demonstrate their charms and make amazing wave-like movements with their bellies right at your table. An additional piquancy to what is happening will be added by the fact that some of the dancers are our compatriots.

Spiritual

Istanbul, I repeat, is a predominantly Muslim city. But if you feel that after a night of entertainment you need to atone for sins, there are all possibilities for this. Two small Russian Orthodox churches (of the Patriarchate of Constantinople) are located in the lanes of the Karakoy district, at the foot of Galata, and they are located on the roofs of houses. You will not find them yourself, you need to ask the locals. Near Taksim Square rises a large Greek temple of St. Sergius. And in the Fener area, the traditional habitat of the Stamboliote Greeks, you can easily find the Patriarchate of Constantinople, a very beautiful place and conducive to prayer. Nearby, on the banks of the Golden Horn - the Bulgarian church. Catholics and Protestants have even more opportunities, there are about a dozen Catholic churches and Protestant houses of worship in the city. Most of them are located in the Pera region, where Europeans have settled since the Middle Ages. There are also several Armenian Gregorian churches, and the main Istanbul synagogue is located next to the Galata Tower.

call your parents

You will certainly need to communicate not only with God, but also with your family. As everywhere, telephone conversations from a hotel are much more expensive than from payphones. Calling cards of various denominations can be bought at call centers, of which there are many (they can often be found in underground passages in the central part of the city), magazine kiosks and sometimes in souvenir shops.

human necessity

When you walk around the city all day, you will inevitably need to go to the toilet. Public water closets can always be found near mosques. Do not be surprised by this: for Muslims, a mosque is not only a place of prayer, but also a community center. It is certainly surrounded by shopping malls, restaurants and cafes, there is almost always a hammam. Sometimes the inscription "Modern toilet" flaunts on the door of the establishment. This means that "M-F" is quite consistent with Western standards. There are institutions more anachronistic, but they are acceptable. The cost of using is symbolic - 25-50 thousand liras. Toilets, of course, are in cafes and restaurants. But in real Turkish tea houses and "buffets", which are visited exclusively by men, there may not be a ladies' room.

Alien monastery

Türkiye, for a Muslim country, is very Europeanized. However, some rules must be followed. Do not enter the mosque in too revealing clothes; Of course, take off your shoes. Agree, the requirements are completely reasonable: would an Orthodox would like it if a Muslim in shorts, barefoot and with his hat on enters the church? You should not photograph fundamentalist Muslims (women in black veils and bearded gentlemen in traditional clothes) without permission. However, even if you ask permission, you will almost certainly be refused. No need to try to capture military installations in the pictures. You may get into trouble with the police. We do not advise you to express unflattering opinions about Turkish politicians, including Kemal Ata-Turk, too loudly: there is a real cult of his personality in the country. And keep in mind that Turkey, contrary to popular misconceptions, is not at all a haven for hashish smokers. For drugs here you can go to prison hard, but there, they say, it’s very hard. In general, the Turkish policemen are very friendly and always ready to help.

It takes pages and pages to tell in detail about Istanbul. But if our advice will help you discover the universe of this wonderful and always unexpected city, we will consider that we have fulfilled our duty. So, forward, to the shores of the Bosphorus!

I did not want to go to Istanbul terribly. Apparently, stereotypical thinking about Turks with gel on their hair and sticky tackles worked. But super-cheap tickets and Stepin's sad eyes did their job - we drove for 4 days, and I consoled myself with the thought that if I get bored, I can always go shopping - after all, clothes in Turkey cost a penny. As it turns out, I was wrong both times.


It’s awesome in Istanbul and it’s simply unrealistic to see at least the most basic sights in 4 days. Well, things in stores are completely at European prices.

The day starts early: even if you chose a hotel far from the mosque, be sure that the morning prayer with the sunrise will find you everywhere.


The imam no longer climbs the tower, the prayer is carried by loudspeakers, and therefore on the first day at five in the morning I found myself in the toilet: chewing toilet paper to make earplugs in my ears. Plus, we lived near Istiklal itself - a huge wide pedestrian street that never fell asleep. But you adapt quickly - on the second day I was already sleeping like a log - apparently because during the day we wound at least 30 kilometers (public transport? No, we didn’t hear it).

Officially, 13 million people live in Istanbul, but locals say that the figure can be safely doubled - due to tourists and students, of which there are a lot here. As a result - a wild flea market on the streets, complete chaos on the roads, yelling, noise and din. In general, the East, although Europeanizing with all its might.

Our route:
Taksim Square - Istiklal - Galata Tower - Fish Market - Galata Bridge - Spice Market - Grand Bazaar - Basil Cistern - Topkapı Palace Garden (Gülhane)

Since we went back and forth a thousand times (everything closes early), the photo shows a wild mix of day and night, but you shop.

It is logical to start the walk from Taksim Square. It is here that shuttles come from both airports (from the European and Asian parts). The state shuttle Havatas runs every half an hour, costs 14 lira, this is a 50-seat bus that takes 40 minutes - the cheapest and most comfortable way to get to the center. I recommend!

On Taksim Square there is nothing to watch at all. In fact, this is a huge wasteland, in the center of which is a monument to Ataturk (the first president who turned Turkey from a backward agricultural land into a full-fledged developed European country) and his shoulders. If you look closely, you can also see Ataturk's friends - Voroshilov and Frunze, who helped Turkey in the 1920 war. The square is surrounded by pleasant buildings of the 19th century of a completely European look.

With Taksim we go to Istiklal(İstiklâl Caddesi, Independence Boulevard)- a three-kilometer pedestrian street, on which each house is either a cafe, or a disco, or a shop or gallery. These are La Rambla, Nevsky and Arbat, the heart and pulse of Istanbul. They say that 3 million people pass the street every day, and you really believe in it - in the evening you have to literally wiggle your elbows to walk.


But you won’t meet anyone here: here is an old grandfather playing some kind of musical three-stringed instrument, here are sellers of chestnuts and sesame bagels for 1 lira, here for a lira you can eat a big oyster. But a man in an expensive suit, with a wonderful perfume, walks a huge painted sheep. You stop being surprised.


A tram called "Nostalgia" runs along the boulevard - only 1 trailer back and forth. It seems to me that the driver has the most stressful job in the world - there are simply unrealistically many people, everyone is thrown right under the wheels.

Suddenly, Istiklal turns into some kind of perfect Porto - small sloping streets, houses clinging to each other, graffiti, small shops.


At every step - cats and fresh juices (which press right in front of you - just show your finger which fruit to squeeze out) for 1-2 lira. This is a sure sign that you are approaching the Galata Tower - and the Golden Horn. By the way, we pass through Galip Dede Street - each of the shops on it is a musical one.

Galata Tower is a fantastic travel scam. No, not right. The Galata Tower is the 14th century, the highest point of the city, living history, pride, the protagonist of all postcards.


But climbing it costs 13 damn euros - a patch around the perimeter, where even two people cannot normally disperse. The view, of course, is beautiful, but it's not worth that much. Not a foot there!


Near the tower, every time we came across people who feed homeless animals, which, by the way, are all chipped and look better than some tourists. For example, they lie on tables on the terraces of expensive establishments. On the streets, you constantly run the risk of tripping over a cat or a dog - there are so many of them, and they are so apathetic.


Directly under the tower, along the Golden Horn - fish market Istanbul. Attraction from the section "Tickle your nerves." A huge number of tents with fresh fish (the smell is appropriate), merchants yell, grab by the hand, and on each tent there are seagulls, the size of a house, which are predatory watching you. Everything is in gull shit, the stench is infernal. I jumped, quickly took a couple of shots from the bridge and was like that.

Here, by the way, is a quiet and abandoned lounge behind the fish market.

By the way, about the bridge.


Galata bridge occupied by fishermen. Always, at any time of the day or night. The fish they caught are immediately sold (which is rather dumb, given how navigable the canal is). There are restaurants on the lower level of the bridge, but the locals do not recommend them. But going down from the bridge, you can eat fish in bread (divine!).


Moreover, the kitchens of coastal restaurants - right on the water in boats, a very funny sight.


Here you also need to gobble up an oyster for 0.5 lira (if anywhere in Istanbul they offer for more, don’t enter!). Oysters are very peppery everywhere and do not crumple, from which we concluded that they are not alive, but still - delicious.

After eating the fish, you can go shopping a little. Starts right next to the bridge spice market. You can get around it in about 30 minutes. Seasonings cost from 20 liras per kilogram and ad infinitum. You can try everything, for example, bargain (but I don’t know how, please return me to the self-service store) or bite a donut at the monument.

There are also sweets and coffee. And cool sets of seasonings - for example, 10 or 20 pieces in a tape, a little bit different. By the way, for those who, like me, are terribly afraid of markets, there is an excellent chain of self-service sweet shops - Koska - you can also try there, but no one will bother you. In the center of such shops at every step.

You can continue your shopping marathon at Grand Bazaar if you have the courage. I don’t know why there are so few people in all my photos (this is not pride!). The Grand Bazaar is some kind of huge fashion world in Zhdanovichi, only the interiors are authentic, and instead of rows there are whole streets (of which, they say, 66), 4 thousand shops. It seems like there is even a school and a cemetery. I only had the courage to walk quickly along the two outermost streets.


Feeling like in a maze. At prices - as elsewhere in the city (I understood this from shops with price tags, but again - bargain, I don’t want to). Even now, when I write about the Grand Bazaar, my breathing quickens and I want to stick my head out the window - to breathe. Horror!

If there is strength left, it's close to here Basilica Cistern. A very controversial place: an underground water storage that looks more like a palace. It was built in 532 to store fresh water in case of drought.


Now half of the water has been drained, and bridges have been made between the columns - for tourists. Mournful music plays, constant drip-drip from the ceiling, huge fish swim under your feet - even despite the crowds of people - flocks of goosebumps.


In one place, the columns prop up the heads of the Medusa Gorgon - set sideways, away from sin. The columns, by the way, were brought from ancient temples, and therefore they are different everywhere.


In general, fans of "Inferno" by Dan Brown - must-see. By the way, the museum card does not apply to this place, the people are respectful and assyarozhny, people were constantly turned around in our presence. Also, if you carry a tripod to shoot in the dark, be prepared to pay for it.

Friends, we are back in Istanbul!

In my list of gastronomic capitals of the world, Istanbul can be safely put on a pedestal. And even on Istanbul itself, but on Turkish cuisine in general. Together with Balkan vegetable fireworks and Italian pasta pizzas, Turkish culinary delights will make you name your trip "gastronomy tour" .

Today in this article we will talk about where to eat tasty and inexpensive in Istanbul and what you should definitely try.

After all, it is here that the whole process of satisfying appetite is framed in an artistic frame of aesthetic pleasure.

I must say that eating in Istanbul is not tasty - it still needs to be managed. So we will focus more on the task of "not parting with foreign exchange savings."

We will name names, look at photos and swallow saliva. Move your plate of cold snacks closer to you.

We begin!

Before the start of any trip, I always probe the countries for food and the budget carved out for this purpose.

That's why I don't like the countries of Western Europe, since only here you can save all day on visiting museums, and then spend a round sum in a nondescript restaurant, because this price level !

15 euros for a salad, 20 euros for a chop and go for 5 euros for a hot dog. You can't go far with your family. So you have to bomb disgusting fast foods and in order to have access to the stove, which you hate fiercely after a week of rest.

Toli business Istanbul! The food here is a joy not only to the eyes, but also to the wallet.

Of course, this is a city of a million people with a crowd of devoted tourists, and therefore there are also places for "money bags" here. But there are also plenty of options to “eat for cheap”.

Istanbul Meal Plan

In terms of nutrition, we have developed the following scheme:

  • had breakfast In a hotel. It was not God knows what, but it was enough to start. and until lunch, you will not be interested in food at all.
  • had dinner we are in locant. Similar to our bistro or canteen with fresh and inexpensive dishes
  • had supper we took turns: either in a restaurant, or bought shawarma or balyk ekmek (fish in bread) and satisfied our hunger in the park and our balcony.

During the day, no one forbids you to consume roasted chestnuts, boiled corn, the freshest baklava in uncontrolled quantities and drink all this with tea, coffee or ayran.

Delicious, satisfying, inexpensive! Beauty. There are no problems with street food in Istanbul. Here

Average food budget per day

Specifically, I will talk about food prices in Istanbul. But here, in the course of the conversation, you yourself will be able to determine the budget for food, depending on the preferences and the number of "starving" in the ranks.

It took us 100-250 lire a day to feed three people a day, depending on whether we ate dinner at a restaurant or at home.

Although, by negligence, you can get on such a "good-natured" owner of the tavern, who, with refined artistry, will divorce you for 100 and 200 lira, while you clap your hands to him.

In no way did I want to offend these owners, this is their bread. I'm just hinting that it is in Istanbul (especially in the historical center) that you should not open your mouth and think that all the treats and the show program will be completely free.

Everything is legal, but the final score may surprise you.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner Istanbul

Breakfast

Breakfast is the headache of your hotel, but if you like to save on them as much as I do, then breakfast can be a bummer. Do not despair! In Istanbul, this is not a problem.

By the way, Turks don't drink their coffee on an empty stomach. How so? This can be seen from the decoding of the very word breakfast Kahvaltı - Kahve (coffee) altı (before). So you do not indulge in such))

The trick is that the cost of breakfast is almost always fixed. Therefore, you immediately know how much a "view of the Bosphorus" will cost you. Another thing is dinner, when the check for a meal has no bottom.

Breakfast costs 20-45 lire per person. But the number of small plates may surprise you. While making your way to the table, immediately decide how many breakfasts you need for the crowd.

For breakfast, you will be served: boiled eggs, olives, several types of cheese, a parody of sausage, vegetables, fruits, honey jam and a lot of bread and tea.

Many restaurants are cunning and do not include Turkish coffee in breakfast. Pay separately. And that's how we are.

Dinner

During the lunch break, I myself do not like and I do not advise you to stay too long at starched tablecloths. There would be time to run around, and not at the table to control the change of dishes.

Lunch at the locant per person can cost you 10-30 lire per person. Here the price range is set by your whims.

The best options are soup (çorba), cabbage rolls (dolma), rice (pilav), beans (fasulie), eggplant (patlican) and various gravies. The most expensive option is lasagna and lamb dishes.

I adore Turkish soups, which are often reminiscent of our puree soups. But only once we made a mistake with the name Ishkembe. If you want to laugh, order this soup, and then ask what's inside.

We drink the whole thing with tea or strong coffee and continue to conquer the city.

Dinner

As soon as you took your starting position at a table in a nice restaurant, immediately cook for 30-60 lire per person for lunch or dinner.

This is a standard price tag depending on the type of dishes (meat, fish, vegetarian) and the number of mezze (snacks) that you agree to.

Many restaurants in Istanbul are cunning and do not post prices on their official websites.

Prices are written on the menu at the entrance to the institution, but who will let you study them calmly. As soon as you opened the 1st page, the team of waiters solemnly invites you inside.

Baklava and other sweets

A trip to Turkey is always associated with sweet memories. And the reason for this is the eaten kilograms of baklava, despite the fact that we do not eat sugar.

classic fresh baklava incredibly tasty and no matter how much you eat it in Istanbul, you always want to take it with you.

You can taste the delicacy as in cafes like " Mado” or ““, or you can buy it to take away. Prices vary as the growth of recruits in the army.

Globally, there are 2 types of baklava: with ceviz walnuts (just don’t tell the Turks that walnuts are walnuts) and with fistikli pistachios. With pistachios, baklava will be more expensive. Also distinguished by size and other additives.

The cheapest baklava I've ever bought is 25/35 (walnut/pistachio) lire per kilo. Well, in tourist places it can be sold for 60/80 lire safely.

But in cafes and restaurants, baklava will cost you even more under 100 liras per kg, which already falls under the article “impudence is the second happiness”:

A good shop for shopping for sweets is Koska. The prices are average, but they often have discounts on a couple of types of baklava. Take her))

By the way, no one bothers you to take some baklava to go and sit on stools in a neighboring teahouse. They have tea, you have baklava. In my opinion, the perfect example of teamwork!

Forgotten something?

Boreki

Kebabs and doners in Turkey are delicious, however, the meat is often oversalted. But what I definitely recommend trying is puff pastry with cheese or some kind of sour cheese. In Turkish it is su boregi or su berey.

The master before your eyes cuts off a piece from a huge loaf, quickly chop it and deftly serves your portion in a disposable dish with a fork and a napkin. Satan!

Also in such bakeries you can buy other types of boreks ( boregi). These are a type of puff pastry pies with various fillings: spinach, meat and even potatoes. They are usually sold by weight - 20-30 lira / kg.

We usually took half a kilo of dough with cheese and vegetables from the magician for salad. Cheap, nutritious and delicious.

If you feel that something is missing, then grab a couple more bottles of Efes Pilsnera to go. It usually helps.)

Pide

This local fast food variant is often referred to as Turkish pizza. But, unlike pizza, pide is not consumed on the go, but is quietly eaten at tables in a cafe.

There are special bakeries where only pide are baked and they are very popular in Istanbul among the locals. As for me, there is also some similarity with Georgian khachapuri.

The filling can be absolutely anything: cheese, minced meat, meat, vegetables and eggs. In Istanbul, I have not seen cheap pide, so cook about 20 lira for a tortilla. But in Antalya, everything starts with 10 liras.

Alternatively, one of the most famous pideins in Istanbul is this. Located in the Sirkeci quarter next to the entertainment center of the same name, where the dervishes are spinning. The entire region has been fed since 1964. Here are the guys at work.

Fresh juices

Also, do not deny yourself the pleasure of drinking inexpensive freshly squeezed juices. 3-6 lira for a glass is a penny, but cheerfulness and energy for years. Of course, in Istanbul you can’t compare the range of juices and prices with southern Turkey, but nonetheless.

Pomegranate juice is especially useful and tasty. So pomegranates are not convenient to eat, and on juices you can easily exceed the norm for vitamins.

Racks with juices stand in crowded places. Also, it is possible to buy slices of watermelon and pineapple from them individually.

I met inexpensive options in front of the Grand Bazaar and on Yüksek Kaldırım street, which goes from the Galata Tower to the Galata Bridge.

Drinking water

Drinking water can be bought in the store and in any shops along the road. This is a very popular item. There are also public fountains in the city, but I do not recommend drinking from there. We only washed fruits there.

And don't carry water with you. In Turkey, this is bad manners. You can buy a bottle of cold water at every step at a price of 1.5-2 lira.

Refreshed, plastic in your pocket (do not scatter the same) and until the next pit stop, there will be enough strength and fluid in the body.

By the way, in many canteens you put closed bottles of water on the table, and then they are included in the bill. If you want, take it with you, but if you don’t want to, then say that you won’t take water and you will be knocked down by a couple of liras.

And here in the photo, pay attention to this bus at the Eminonu pier.

This brought free sets of vegetarian food for the poor in Ramadan. Inside is juice, a roll with cheese and tomatoes, olives and some water. We checked.)

Time to pack your bags

Friends, I have everything in terms of nutrition. Well, like everyone else! Of course, you can talk about the cuisine of Istanbul and Turkey in general for hours, but it’s better to go yourself and try everything, using our advice and our experience.

And be sure that you have read our guide "" so that I don't worry about your trip anymore!

Subscribe to updates , read other articles of our blog and be sure to ask questions in the comments.

Istanbul is known throughout the world for the beauty of the Sultan's palaces, the minarets of mosques, and collections of museums. However, beauty alone will not fill you up. For lovers of delicious food, Istanbul is a real expanse: sea fish, meat with spices, divinely cooked vegetables and, of course, sweets. Even fast food here is completely different, with an oriental flavor and, oh, what a flavor.

So, what should you definitely try in Istanbul? I will tell you about what and where to eat in the city center, because not all tourists have the time and desire to travel a long way to remote areas of Istanbul in search of food "for the locals". In general, I can say that even in the very heart of the city the food is tasty, plentiful and not very expensive.

1. Doner, kofte, shawarma, in general, eat meat in the center of Istanbul
2. Fresh juices in Istanbul (pomegranate juice)
3. Chestnuts, bagels, corn in Istanbul
4. Oriental sweets in Istanbul
5. Balik ekmek or fish sandwich from a beautiful boat
6. Where to eat fish in Istanbul
7. Ice cream in Istanbul - must eat
8. "Baby potato" in Istanbul
9. What to try in Istanbul restaurants

First of all, you will be offered a lot of tasty things on the street. You should not draw in your head pictures of dirty tents, like those near the Moscow metro. In Istanbul, street food is held in high esteem, the locals eat it themselves. In addition, the Turks are a clean nation, so everyone cooks with gloves and under normal conditions. Do you remember the cult of baths in Turkey at a time when Europe was doused with perfume to drown out unpleasant odors?

So, they eat on the street everywhere. And as soon as a person sits down to rest and have a bite, a beggar cat immediately appears in front of him. He just sits silently and looks with plaintive eyes.

Doner, kofte, shawarma, in general, we eat meat in the center of Istanbul

What we call shawarma (meat in pita bread with vegetables or rice) is called doner in Istanbul. Moreover, the Istanbul doner may look different. You can put meat from a skewer on a plate, add vegetables. At your request, doner can be made in the form of shawarma in pita bread or put all the ingredients in a soft bun. By the way, the bread in Istanbul is excellent. It happened historically, because the Sultans took care of people, introducing strict control over the quality of bread and even its price. A merchant who was caught selling poorly baked or not fresh bread received severe punishment with canes.

Another popular Turkish dish is kofte. Roughly speaking, these are a variety of grilled meatballs of various shapes. Kofte is served with rice and french fries, for some reason the Turks consider this combination to be the right one. Or maybe they give in this way to make a choice who likes what more: eat potatoes or rice.

Often, stalls have pictures of the dish, so you can choose by appearance. Here, for example, is an institution near the central tram stop Sultanahmet, I recommend it. As you can see, doner costs around 8 lira ($4), kofte costs about 18 lira ($9), but kofte is more than just a meal.



And here are the meat snacks.


If you want more European food, but cheaper than in a restaurant, then I can recommend establishments similar to a canteen. Even in the very heart of Istanbul there are such inexpensive canteens, the assortment can be seen in the photo and the signboard with prices.



Fresh juices in Istanbul (pomegranate juice)

The second yummy, without which the impression of Istanbul will not be complete, is pomegranate juice. In the center of the old city (Sultanahmet district), every hundred meters you will come across the collapse of pomegranates and oranges, from which for about 5 liras (2.5 dollars) they make juice using special crushers. Pomegranate juice is something with something, very tasty and healthy. Pomegranate juice gives energy, and you will need them when viewing the many sights.


By the way, if you want something hot, then pay attention to men with samovars.


Chestnuts, bagels, corn in Istanbul

Traders behind beautiful carts invite everyone to try roasted chestnuts and corn on the cob. For a few liras, you can have a snack of chestnuts fried in front of you, carefully placed in a paper bag. Thanks to these tents, the smell of roasted chestnuts floats over the city, as if it were France, not Istanbul.


And literally a stone's throw from the chestnuts, another merchant will invite you to taste the famous Istanbul bagel. The bagel is not something special, it is even somewhat bland. But you can take processed cheese or chocolate paste with it.


Oriental sweets in Istanbul

Literally on every street you can taste the famous oriental sweets. Shops beckon with all the colors of baklava, Turkish delight and other fancy sweets. You can buy a box of sweets to take with you, or you can eat in a shop where you will also be given tea for free.



I want to note that the delicacies that are sold in factory boxes at the airport and in other parts of Turkey are not related to real, high-quality sweets, I do not advise buying. Firstly, the sweets that are sold in the sweet shops of Istanbul are not cheap, more than 1,200 rubles per kilogram. Secondly, their taste is completely different, everything literally melts in your mouth. In general, the Turks know a lot about sweets, because from time immemorial they have been eating it, and even washing it down with chirp.


Sweets can be bought right on Sultanahmet near the tram stop, or on the way to the Galata Bridge. If you walk along the tram tracks, you will see many souvenir shops, restaurants and sweet shops along the way.

In addition to traditional delights, etc. in Istanbul, you can enjoy various cakes. I never managed to do this, because there was never any room left in my stomach, but everything looks beautiful.


Balik ekmek or fish sandwich from a beautiful boat

Want some show and even more Istanbul flair? Then head to the Egyptian Bazaar (Spice Market). Opposite it, where the Galata Bridge begins, there are bright golden boats.


These are not sightseeing boats, but restaurants where they cook an unusual Istanbul fast food - balik ekmek or, in other words, a fish sandwich. Fried fish is placed in bread, onions and salad are added, this pleasure costs only 6 liras (3 dollars).


There are also barrels on which you can sit. Salt and lemon juice are on every table, and nimble boys sell wet wipes for 1.5 lira, but we still get stuck with fish.

It's funny, but the locals eat a fish sandwich with a very strange drink, which I did not dare to try. This is how it looks.


In general, this is the dream of a Russian alcoholic: a pickle of sauerkraut and some other vegetables. It looks and smells disgusting, but the locals drink and don't wince.

Where to eat fish in Istanbul

But for those who love fish, you need to know the fish places of the city.

The most promoted place with fish restaurants is the Galata Bridge.


Surely you will ride a boat along the Bosphorus, and so, sailing under the Galata Bridge, you will immediately smell the smell of fried fish. Delicious, delicious, smells good. But I strongly do not recommend visiting these restaurants. It is expensive, often not tasty, and the fish is not the first freshness. When we were in Istanbul for the first time, then, of course, we went there. At home, we read articles on the Internet where people described these restaurants as something special. At that time, a dinner for two of us cost 70 euros, for which we received 3 cold stuffed mussels, a couple of pieces of dried fish and 0.5 bottles of ordinary cheap wine.

So, if you want to eat normal fish, then go through the Galata bridge to the end and go down from it to the left. And you will see the fish market, where fish restaurants work, though I'm not sure if they are open in the evening, it's better to go there for lunch. Yes, there is no live music, thousands of touts and soft sofas. Everything is very modest, maple on the tables ... But there is fresh fish, and instead of a barker there is a cook who fries a bunch of delicious things in front of you.


Prices are approximately the following: 8 liras (4 dollars) for a portion of squid, 15 liras for fish for two (you can estimate its size in the photo). By the way, this is where the locals eat. Lunch for two of fish, salad, drinks and squid cost us 1,100 rubles in Russian money, but it was from the category of trying everything, not eating, so nibbling. Felt the difference, is called.

This is not the only fish market, there is another one on the way to the airport. But we didn’t go there, so I won’t come up with a review about it.

On the Galata Bridge, we once dined in a restaurant on our second visit to Istanbul. But it was the very last restaurant on the bridge. We decided to take a chance, because I didn't want fish, thinking that many tourists simply do not reach this place, they are intercepted by barkers from nearby restaurants. And they were right, MIO Galata turned out to be quite a pleasant place, with good portions and reasonable prices. From which we conclude - do not be fooled by the barkers, go a little further. For an extra 50 steps, you will be rewarded with a delicious Turkish lunch, however, we no longer dared to take fish there, we ate meat.

Ice cream in Istanbul - must eat

They also sell excellent ice cream in Istanbul. It is absolutely not the same as in Russia, it stretches and contains mastic. I have never eaten anything tastier.


Usually ice cream is sold in markets, pedestrian streets, at the airport and in the MADO cafe chain. They are all over the city, in the center, again, near the Sultanahmet stop. This is what they look like from the street.


"Baby Potato" in Istanbul

Surely, you have heard that street food reminiscent of our Baby Potato is very popular in Istanbul? In general, they eat it mainly in areas remote from the center, somewhere there is even a whole street of potato traders. But in the center, I also managed to find one place where you can try the Turkish version of fast food loved by many.


The place is located on Divan street, in the very center of the old city. We did not try potatoes, because it is simply impossible to eat constantly, but it looks pretty decent. Only here the fillers are different, for example, the filler in the form of canned corn killed me.

What to try in Istanbul restaurants

But these are all snacks and pampering. Let's move on to serious food.

There are also a huge number of restaurants in Istanbul. If you like meat, then order something like mix kebab, just kebab. I like dishes that are brought either in a frying pan or in a pot, in which the meat is diluted with eggplant, tomatoes and awesome sauce.

Order vegetable salads carefully. Often, in Istanbul, vegetable salad means a plate in which you put carrots, cabbage, lettuce, half a lemon and that's it. In general, this is not what we are used to seeing in restaurants, seasoned with a delicious sauce.


However, if you order a salad with fillings that have a name on the menu, then you will be brought a huge portion of a delicious salad. Here is a salad with tuna, the two of us barely mastered, taking into account the ordered main course.


If you want vegetables, then order grilled vegetables, it is very tasty. Stewed vegetables are also divine. Turks are great at cooking stews from eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes...


Actually, the kitchen is quite simple and understandable to us. Meat, eggplant, zucchini, rice, potatoes, tomatoes ... grilled, stew. I really like how they cook rice, I also want to learn how to do it. Like, nothing special, but the taste, mmmm!


Soups in Turkey are predominantly made from beans, lentils, peas and other lesser known legumes. They come in the form of a cream soup, they are familiar to us: liquid and ingredients float in it. I really liked the soups.

Near many restaurants you will notice this table with pots.


This is a lure for guests, saying that they are cooking kebab in a pot. We decided to try and for good reason. First, it's kind of a show. The waiter rolls a burning pot to your table.


He takes it out of the fire and starts tapping it with a stick.


Taps until the neck of the pot falls off. Next, the contents are laid out on a plate and you can start to burst. If you take another salad, then it is quite possible to eat three of us. Kebab is a piece of meat (it is fashionable to choose one, or you can take a mix) with vegetables, very tasty.


Prices in restaurants in Istanbul are different and depend on the location of the restaurant. More expensive prices in those that are closer to the top attractions. And if there is also a panoramic view, then the prices will be even higher. Approximately the price of a hot meal in the old part of the city will cost 24 liras (12 dollars). Accordingly, lunch or dinner for two will cost from 600 to 1200 rubles for two, because it all depends on how much and what to eat.

Here is an example of prices in an outdoor cafe (divide by about 2 - get dollars).

I can recommend the restaurant, which is located at the entrance to the Ambassador Hotel, in the very center of old Istanbul. I've eaten in it several times - everything is excellent. I highly recommend grilled vegetables with rice, assorted fish, any soups. I also recommend the restaurant, which is located, if you go straight, momi Basilica Cistern, 150 meters. This is a hotel, a gray-pink color, there is a sign "Roof". About the restaurants that I liked, I will tell in the hotel note.

In general, in Istanbul there are a lot of options where to eat, what to try. I wrote, and I really wanted to have dinner.

Friends, we are back in Istanbul!

In my list of gastronomic capitals of the world, Istanbul can be safely put on a pedestal. And even on Istanbul itself, but on Turkish cuisine in general. Together with Balkan vegetable fireworks and Italian pasta pizzas, Turkish culinary delights will make you name your trip "gastronomy tour" .

Today in this article we will talk about where to eat tasty and inexpensive in Istanbul and what you should definitely try.

After all, it is here that the whole process of satisfying appetite is framed in an artistic frame of aesthetic pleasure.

I must say that eating in Istanbul is not tasty - it still needs to be managed. So we will focus more on the task of "not parting with foreign exchange savings."

We will name names, look at photos and swallow saliva. Move your plate of cold snacks closer to you.

We begin!

Before the start of any trip, I always probe the countries for food and the budget carved out for this purpose.

That's why I don't like the countries of Western Europe, since only here you can save all day on visiting museums, and then spend a round sum in a nondescript restaurant, because this price level !

15 euros for a salad, 20 euros for a chop and go for 5 euros for a hot dog. You can't go far with your family. So you have to bomb disgusting fast foods and in order to have access to the stove, which you hate fiercely after a week of rest.

Toli business Istanbul! The food here is a joy not only to the eyes, but also to the wallet.

Of course, this is a city of a million people with a crowd of devoted tourists, and therefore there are also places for "money bags" here. But there are also plenty of options to “eat for cheap”.

Istanbul Meal Plan

In terms of nutrition, we have developed the following scheme:

  • had breakfast In a hotel. It was not God knows what, but it was enough to start. and until lunch, you will not be interested in food at all.
  • had dinner we are in locant. Similar to our bistro or canteen with fresh and inexpensive dishes
  • had supper we took turns: either in a restaurant, or bought shawarma or balyk ekmek (fish in bread) and satisfied our hunger in the park and our balcony.

During the day, no one forbids you to consume roasted chestnuts, boiled corn, the freshest baklava in uncontrolled quantities and drink all this with tea, coffee or ayran.

Delicious, satisfying, inexpensive! Beauty. There are no problems with street food in Istanbul. Here

Average food budget per day

Specifically, I will talk about food prices in Istanbul. But here, in the course of the conversation, you yourself will be able to determine the budget for food, depending on the preferences and the number of "starving" in the ranks.

It took us 100-250 lire a day to feed three people a day, depending on whether we ate dinner at a restaurant or at home.

Although, by negligence, you can get on such a "good-natured" owner of the tavern, who, with refined artistry, will divorce you for 100 and 200 lira, while you clap your hands to him.

In no way did I want to offend these owners, this is their bread. I'm just hinting that it is in Istanbul (especially in the historical center) that you should not open your mouth and think that all the treats and the show program will be completely free.

Everything is legal, but the final score may surprise you.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner Istanbul

Breakfast

Breakfast is the headache of your hotel, but if you like to save on them as much as I do, then breakfast can be a bummer. Do not despair! In Istanbul, this is not a problem.

By the way, Turks don't drink their coffee on an empty stomach. How so? This can be seen from the decoding of the very word breakfast Kahvaltı - Kahve (coffee) altı (before). So you do not indulge in such))

The trick is that the cost of breakfast is almost always fixed. Therefore, you immediately know how much a "view of the Bosphorus" will cost you. Another thing is dinner, when the check for a meal has no bottom.

Breakfast costs 20-45 lire per person. But the number of small plates may surprise you. While making your way to the table, immediately decide how many breakfasts you need for the crowd.

For breakfast, you will be served: boiled eggs, olives, several types of cheese, a parody of sausage, vegetables, fruits, honey jam and a lot of bread and tea.

Many restaurants are cunning and do not include Turkish coffee in breakfast. Pay separately. And that's how we are.

Dinner

During the lunch break, I myself do not like and I do not advise you to stay too long at starched tablecloths. There would be time to run around, and not at the table to control the change of dishes.

Lunch at the locant per person can cost you 10-30 lire per person. Here the price range is set by your whims.

The best options are soup (çorba), cabbage rolls (dolma), rice (pilav), beans (fasulie), eggplant (patlican) and various gravies. The most expensive option is lasagna and lamb dishes.

I adore Turkish soups, which are often reminiscent of our puree soups. But only once we made a mistake with the name Ishkembe. If you want to laugh, order this soup, and then ask what's inside.

We drink the whole thing with tea or strong coffee and continue to conquer the city.

Dinner

As soon as you took your starting position at a table in a nice restaurant, immediately cook for 30-60 lire per person for lunch or dinner.

This is a standard price tag depending on the type of dishes (meat, fish, vegetarian) and the number of mezze (snacks) that you agree to.

Many restaurants in Istanbul are cunning and do not post prices on their official websites.

Prices are written on the menu at the entrance to the institution, but who will let you study them calmly. As soon as you opened the 1st page, the team of waiters solemnly invites you inside.

Baklava and other sweets

A trip to Turkey is always associated with sweet memories. And the reason for this is the eaten kilograms of baklava, despite the fact that we do not eat sugar.

classic fresh baklava incredibly tasty and no matter how much you eat it in Istanbul, you always want to take it with you.

You can taste the delicacy as in cafes like " Mado” or ““, or you can buy it to take away. Prices vary as the growth of recruits in the army.

Globally, there are 2 types of baklava: with ceviz walnuts (just don’t tell the Turks that walnuts are walnuts) and with fistikli pistachios. With pistachios, baklava will be more expensive. Also distinguished by size and other additives.

The cheapest baklava I've ever bought is 25/35 (walnut/pistachio) lire per kilo. Well, in tourist places it can be sold for 60/80 lire safely.

But in cafes and restaurants, baklava will cost you even more under 100 liras per kg, which already falls under the article “impudence is the second happiness”:

A good shop for shopping for sweets is Koska. The prices are average, but they often have discounts on a couple of types of baklava. Take her))

By the way, no one bothers you to take some baklava to go and sit on stools in a neighboring teahouse. They have tea, you have baklava. In my opinion, the perfect example of teamwork!

Forgotten something?

Boreki

Kebabs and doners in Turkey are delicious, however, the meat is often oversalted. But what I definitely recommend trying is puff pastry with cheese or some kind of sour cheese. In Turkish it is su boregi or su berey.

The master before your eyes cuts off a piece from a huge loaf, quickly chop it and deftly serves your portion in a disposable dish with a fork and a napkin. Satan!

Also in such bakeries you can buy other types of boreks ( boregi). These are a type of puff pastry pies with various fillings: spinach, meat and even potatoes. They are usually sold by weight - 20-30 lira / kg.

We usually took half a kilo of dough with cheese and vegetables from the magician for salad. Cheap, nutritious and delicious.

If you feel that something is missing, then grab a couple more bottles of Efes Pilsnera to go. It usually helps.)

Pide

This local fast food variant is often referred to as Turkish pizza. But, unlike pizza, pide is not consumed on the go, but is quietly eaten at tables in a cafe.

There are special bakeries where only pide are baked and they are very popular in Istanbul among the locals. As for me, there is also some similarity with Georgian khachapuri.

The filling can be absolutely anything: cheese, minced meat, meat, vegetables and eggs. In Istanbul, I have not seen cheap pide, so cook about 20 lira for a tortilla. But in Antalya, everything starts with 10 liras.

Alternatively, one of the most famous pideins in Istanbul is this. Located in the Sirkeci quarter next to the entertainment center of the same name, where the dervishes are spinning. The entire region has been fed since 1964. Here are the guys at work.

Fresh juices

Also, do not deny yourself the pleasure of drinking inexpensive freshly squeezed juices. 3-6 lira for a glass is a penny, but cheerfulness and energy for years. Of course, in Istanbul you can’t compare the range of juices and prices with southern Turkey, but nonetheless.

Pomegranate juice is especially useful and tasty. So pomegranates are not convenient to eat, and on juices you can easily exceed the norm for vitamins.

Racks with juices stand in crowded places. Also, it is possible to buy slices of watermelon and pineapple from them individually.

I met inexpensive options in front of the Grand Bazaar and on Yüksek Kaldırım street, which goes from the Galata Tower to the Galata Bridge.

Drinking water

Drinking water can be bought in the store and in any shops along the road. This is a very popular item. There are also public fountains in the city, but I do not recommend drinking from there. We only washed fruits there.

And don't carry water with you. In Turkey, this is bad manners. You can buy a bottle of cold water at every step at a price of 1.5-2 lira.

Refreshed, plastic in your pocket (do not scatter the same) and until the next pit stop, there will be enough strength and fluid in the body.

By the way, in many canteens you put closed bottles of water on the table, and then they are included in the bill. If you want, take it with you, but if you don’t want to, then say that you won’t take water and you will be knocked down by a couple of liras.

And here in the photo, pay attention to this bus at the Eminonu pier.

This brought free sets of vegetarian food for the poor in Ramadan. Inside is juice, a roll with cheese and tomatoes, olives and some water. We checked.)

Time to pack your bags

Friends, I have everything in terms of nutrition. Well, like everyone else! Of course, you can talk about the cuisine of Istanbul and Turkey in general for hours, but it’s better to go yourself and try everything, using our advice and our experience.

And be sure that you have read our guide "" so that I don't worry about your trip anymore!

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