Mountain systems of Kazakhstan: central Tien Shan. Tien Shan Mountains: photo, description, length, geographical position Tien Shan is located on the territory

"Heavenly mountains" are well known to any Chinese. This is how the Tien Shan mountain system is called in China. China is not the only country where heavenly mountain ranges stretch. Rocky rock crosses countries such as Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan. The ridge stretches across the whole of Central Asia.

Features of high mountains

The Tien Shan system has many peaks reaching heights of 6,000 meters or more. Unique mountains also have an amazing ecosystem. Their appearance and views are indescribably beautiful, and the pits between them abound with lakes. Meet at the foot of the mountains and fast rivers.

The total length of the ridge is 2500 km. The entire system of mountains is divided into the following areas:

• Central;
• Northern;
• Oriental;
• West;
• Southwestern.

The highest point of the ridge is Pobeda Peak. Its total height is 7439 meters. The system was once researched by Peter Semenov and Thomas Atkinson. Subsequently, these figures published books about the Tien Shan mountain system, describing their travels and observations in them. They made many discoveries that helped to better understand the ecosystem of the Tien Shan Range.

famous mountain lake

Tianchi Lake is a natural landmark of China. It is located in the Tien Shan mountain system, 100 km from Urumqi. The height of the lake above sea level is 1900 meters. This is the same jade pond, the waters of which were endowed with magical properties in ancient times.

Legends say that the Goddess Sivanmu herself once bathed in the water surface of the lake. The reservoir is fed from mountain glaciers, so the water in it is very clean. The nature around is untouched by man and incredibly beautiful.

In summer, tourists rest off the coast of Tianchi, but the water in the lake is not suitable for swimming, as it still remains too cold even on the hottest days.

Tianchi is a lake, looking into which you can see its sandy bottom, as well as reflections of snow-white peaks.

The climate around the Chinese mountains

The arid and sharply continental climate of the Tien Shan is characterized by snowy winters and hot summers.

The higher the peaks of the mountains stretch, the more precipitation there is. Some mountainous areas are subject to strong winds. In the lowlands of the mountain range, precipitation is scarce and is most suitable for tourism.

Wildlife Tien Shan

The mountain range is listed as a UNESCO heritage site. Ferrets, hares, jerboas, ground squirrels, mole voles, mice, rats and poisonous snakes live on its territory.

Birds are represented in the form of larks, sandgrouse, eagles, bustards and partridges. Of the large animals, the ridge was chosen by brown bears, lynxes, wild boars, wolves, foxes, badgers, martens, squirrels and roe deer.

Sometimes in the highlands you can meet a snow leopard. This predator is listed in the Red Book, therefore they are a rare guest in all their habitats.

Tulips and irises grow on the slopes of the Tien Shan. Tansy, cedars, firs, aspens rise. These places are full of herbs and valuable medicinal plants. During the flowering period of various herbs, the mountain range turns into a multi-colored fairy tale.

Tien Shan and tourism

The main type of tourism on the territory of the ridge is hiking and mountaineering. Near the mountain range in Kufu there is a Confucian temple. Ski slopes work at some bases.

Around the mountains there are tourist areas and hotels. There are restaurants, in the cities nearby there is all the infrastructure necessary for a person.

In some places you can ride the funicular. The most popular hiking trails are equipped with parking lots for tourists. Sometimes at high altitude there are campsites and hotels with private rooms. The Tien Shan is so vast and unpredictable that it does not tolerate a rash approach. It is best to go to the mountains with a trusted instructor, observing safety precautions and notifying the relevant Chinese authorities about your route.

Tien Shan is stunning views, rare nature, clean air and healing energy in the atmosphere. These mountains have always been considered one of the pearls of China, which, by the way, are quite numerous in the country. They beckoned and are beckoning tourists to their heights, opening before the most daring of them unprecedented places that cut into memory like the best memories.

The history of the discovery of the peaks of the Tien Shan

Impenetrable mountain ranges, always snowy, with almost steep slopes, the highest peaks, piercing their sharp peaks into the blue sky, severe glaciers and snowstorms have guarded the geographical mysteries of the Tien Shan for many centuries.

The honor of studying this mountainous country belongs to our domestic science.

The first explorer of the Tien Shan was the famous Russian geographer P.P. Semenov-Tyan-Shansky, penetrated into the very heart of the Heavenly Mountains, to the Tengri-tag massif. Following P.P. Semenov-Tian-Shansky, this little-studied region of the country was investigated by N.A. Severtsov, I.V. Mushketov, I.V. Ignatiev and other Russian scientists who made an invaluable contribution to the study of the Tien Shan. But, not having the means to organize large expeditions and not meeting support from the tsarist government; lone explorers could not penetrate the hard-to-reach areas of this mountainous country.

The Great October Socialist Revolution radically changed the lives of the peoples of the former Tsarist Russia. In the Soviet Union, the national economy, science and culture reached their peak. From the first days of Soviet power, the scientists of our country were provided with all-round state assistance, hundreds of large scientific institutions were created, large complex expeditions were organized to study many regions of our great Motherland.

Soviet people also came to the peaks of the Tien Shan. Neither stormy rivers nor high mountain ranges stopped them - they penetrated into the kingdom of eternal winter and ripped off the mysterious covers from the mountain giants.

The discovery in 1943 of the peak of Pobeda, the main peak of the Tien Shan, 7439 m high, was one of the largest geographical discoveries of the last twenty years.

Victory Peak

The vast mountainous country of the Tien Shan lies in the heart of Asia. Its mountain ranges stretch from west to east for more than two and a half thousand kilometers.

The spurs of the most western ranges of the Tien Shan - Talas, Chatkal, Fergana and Kuraminsky descend to the capital of the Uzbek SSR, the city of Tashkent. The Fergana, Chatkal and Kuraminsky ranges enclose the Ferghana Valley from the north. The eastern spurs of the Tien Shan ranges reach the western edge of the Gobi Desert.

A characteristic feature of the Tien Shan is the latitudinal elongation of both the entire mountainous region as a whole and most of its mountain ranges and ranges. In the meridional direction from north to south, the borders of the region extend only for 300-400 km, and all of it fits within 40-44 deg. northern latitude.

From the south, the Tien Shan is separated from the mountainous regions of Kun-lun and Altyn-tag, adjacent to Tibet, by the wide sandy Takla-makan desert. The Western Tien Shan is connected with the Pamirs by the Pamir-Alay mountains; The border between them is the fertile Ferghana Valley.

The high ever-snowy ridges of the Soviet Tien Shan feed many large rivers of Central Asia - Ili, Chu, Naryn (upper reaches of the Syr Darya), Ak-sai, Uzengegush, Sarydzhas, Tekes. A common feature of all the drains of the Tien Shan is that not a single drop of their water reaches the ocean, feeding the internal basins of rivers and lakes of Central Asia.

The entire mountainous region of the Tien Shan is usually divided into four parts. The Western Tien Shan includes mountain ranges and ranges located to the west of Lake Issyk-Kul. The Central Tien Shan includes the highest ranges of the mountainous region located to the south of Lake Issyk-Kul, as well as to the east of it all the ranges up to and including the Meridional. The Kungei and Zailiysky ridges, located to the north of Lake Issyk-Kul, rise in the Northern Tien Shan. To the north-west of the Trans-Ili Ala-tau rise. Chu-Ili mountains. Western, Central and Northern Tien Shan are located on the territory of the Soviet Union.

The Eastern Tien Shan includes all the mountain ranges located to the east of the Meridional Range and located mostly in the western provinces of the People's Republic of China.

The Western Tien Shan is a widely branched system of mountain ranges and ranges, located mainly on the territory of the Kyrgyz and partly the Kazakh and Uzbek Union Republics. These include the Kirghiz, Talas, Chatkal, Ferghana, Kuraminsky and a number of smaller ranges and their spurs, located on a wide area from west to east from Tashkent to Lake Issyk-Kul and from north to south, from the Ili river valley to the Ferghana valley.

The ridges of the Western Tien Shan are relatively accessible and explored. In terms of mountaineering, the Kyrgyz Alatau is the most studied, on the ever-snowy peaks of which many ascents have been made. Soviet climbers also visited the peaks of the Chatkal ridge more than once;

To the north of Lake Issyk-Kul, on the territory of the Kazakh SSR, there are two mountain ranges of the Northern Tien Shan, Zaili Ala-tau and Kungei. Ala-tau, connected with the Chiliko-Kemin mountain junction into one powerful mountain system On its northern slopes, facing the valley of the Ili River, the capital of Kazakhstan, the city of Alma-Ata, is located. The part of the Trans-Ili Alatau adjacent to the capital is the most studied and mastered by climbers.

There are several climbing camps in this area, numerous peaks have been climbed, and the training of Central Asian climbers is mainly concentrated here.

The Central Tien Shan includes the highest mountain ranges and ranges. Here is the region of the most powerful glaciation.

South of Lake Issyk-Kul, on the territory of the Kirghiz SSR, there are two large mountain ranges of the Tien Shan - Terskey Ala-tau and Kok-shaal-tau

Terskey Ala Tau

Between them, on a vast upland, there are several smaller ridges Naryn-tau, At-bashi, Ak-shiryak, Chakyr-korum, Borkoldoy and others.

Kokshaal-tau is the southernmost and, perhaps, the least studied and mastered by climbers the Tien Shan ridge with peaks of about 6000 m (Kzyl-asker 5899 m, Dankov peak 5978 m, Alpinist peak 5782 m, etc.).

Kok Shaal tau

In terms of height, shape of peaks and inaccessibility, this entire area is of great scientific and sports interest, so it attracts the attention of researchers and climbers.

To the east of Lake Issyk-Kul is the highest and most inaccessible part of the entire Tien Shan - the Khan Tengri massif. Here is the largest (60 km) Tien Shan glacier - Southern Inylchek. In this area there are many peaks above 6000 m, the highest of them is Khan-tengri - 6995 m Pobeda peak - 7439 m, the second highest mountain peak of the Soviet Union. The northernmost peaks on the globe are seven-thousanders, covered with masses of ice and snow; they naturally give rise to both the most severe conditions and particular inaccessibility. Many centuries ago, people passed by these mountains, from afar they saw a cluster of ever-snow giants, but could not get close to them. Therefore, human fantasy populated them with mysterious spirits and gave them the appropriate names. Thus, the entire mountainous region is called Tien Shan, which means "Heavenly Mountains" in Chinese, the Khan-tengri massif has a local name Tengri-tag, translated from Uighur - "mountains of spirits", and the top of the massif acquired the name Khan- tengri - in Russian "Lord of Spirits".

Khan Tengri

The Khan Tengri massif, consisting of a series of ridges and peaks, occupies the eastern part of the Central Tien Shan and until recently has attracted the attention of scientists and climbers, promising them a lot of unknown. The peaks of its ridges are extremely numerous, but the ascents made in this massif can be counted on the fingers.

The orographic structure of the Khan Tengri massif is very peculiar. In its eastern part there is the Meridional Ridge, which crosses this part of the Central Tien Shan from north to south. From this ridge in the latitudinal direction, the highest ridges of the Tien Shan depart to the west - the Stalin ridge, Sarydzhas, Boz-kyr (Eastern Kok-shaal-tau); to the east - Northern and Halyk-tau.

The Terskey Alatau ridge departs from the Sary-Dzhas ridge to the northwest, and the Kuilyu-Tau ridge serves as a continuation of the Sary-Dzhas ridge in the west. From the Boz-kyr ridge, the Inylchek-tau ridge branches off to the west, and from it, in turn, the Kaindy-katta ridge departs.

The highest peaks of the massif are located near the Meridional Ridge and on it itself. Pobeda Peak rises in the Boz-kyr ridge, and to the north of it, in the Stalin ridge, there is Khan-tengri peak.

The Southern Inylchek Glacier flows west from the Meridional Ridge and receives tributary glaciers from the slopes of the Stalin, Sary-Dzhas, Boz-Kyr and Inylchek-Tau Ridges.

There are many forests in the Tien Shan. Alpine valleys, plateaus and mountain slopes are covered with lush grasses. Rich herds of collective farms and state farms graze on mountain pastures. The abundance of wild animals - mountain goats (tau-teke) and rams (argali) - creates favorable conditions for the wide development of hunting. In the bowels of the Tien Shan, many minerals have been explored, promising broad prospects for the development of the mining industry.

The proximity of the snowy ranges of the Tien Shan to the capitals of the Kazakh and Kirghiz Union Republics provides a wide field of activity for the development of mountaineering in them, one of the favorite sports of brave Soviet people - this kind of school of courage. The governments of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan pay due attention to the development of mountain sports in the republics, mountaineering in the region of the Zailiysky Ala-tau ridge, near the city of Alma-Ata, takes second place after the Caucasus, and the mountaineers of Kyrgyzstan became famous for conducting alpiniades - mass mountaineering training trips.

In the area of ​​the Khan Tengri massif, on an area of ​​about 10,000 sq. km concentrated the highest peaks, the largest glaciers of the Tien Shan. Deep valleys separate the ranges. Their powerful glaciation is often associated with common firn basins.

The inaccessibility of the Khan Tengri region delayed its exploration for a long time. People did not go deep into this kingdom of eternal winter and told fairy tales and legends about the mysterious country of Tengri-tag.

Only in 1856-1857. the great Russian geographer P. Semenov managed to lift the veil of mystery that covered this part of the Tien Shan. He was the first explorer who managed to see Tengri-tag and step onto its glacier. The remarkable description of his journey to the Tien Shan, compiled by him, still serves as an example of the work of scientific thought and strikes with clarity and breadth of observations and conclusions.

Unfortunately, P.P. Semenov did not go into the depths of the Khan-Tengri massif, and this area, until very recently, kept many mysteries. P.P. Semenov visited the Tien Shan only twice, but in the course of his further activity he sent many Russian scientists there who continued his work. In 1886, I. V. Ignatiev visited the Tien Shan with the special purpose of penetrating the Khan Tengri massif. In addition to the Semenov and Mushketov glaciers, flowing north from the Sarydzhas ridge, I. V. Ignatiev was in the Inylchek valley, but did not reach the huge glacier lying in this valley. Without special equipment, he could not overcome the stone cover of his twenty-kilometer surface moraine. Other researchers of the Tien Shan were also scared away by its impregnability for a long time. The fame of the entire massif, especially the peak of Khan-tengri, attracted several foreign scientists and climbers to it, but they also failed to unravel its secrets. So, in 1899, the Hungarian zoologist Almashy went to the Sary-dzhas valley, but he failed to unravel the most complex orography of the Khan-Tengri massif. The following year, Swiss guides appeared with the Italian climber Borghese, but they also failed to climb the Inylchek glacier, which seemed impassable to them.

In 1902, a well-known explorer of the Altai and Tien Shan mountains, professor of botany VV Sapozhnikov, visited this area. He did not limit himself to work in his specialty, but, according to the tradition of famous Russian travelers; covered a very wide area of ​​research, made measurements of many peaks of the Khan-Tengri massif, climbed glaciers and passes.

He determined the height of the Khan-Tengri peak at 6950 m, having reduced its actual height by only 45 m, and did this much more accurately than many previous and subsequent researchers.

V. the same time, in 1902-1903. The Khan-Tengri massif was visited by the German geographer and climber Merzbacher. He managed to make several ascents to secondary peaks and even climbed the South Inylchek glacier to the foot of the Khan-tengri peak, the height of which he determined to be 7200 m. This scientist took panoramas and made descriptions of the places he really visited. But, unfortunately, he put some of his hypotheses and assumptions, later refuted by reality, on a par with the facts. This caused great confusion in the orography of the Tien Shan, which had to be sorted out and put in final order by Soviet scientists and climbers.

To solve many mysteries of the Tien Shan, Soviet scientists and climbers penetrated deep into the Khantengri massif and overcame all its difficulties and dangers. Merzbacher justified his failures by saying that "the high peaks of the Tien Shan are not the right place to satisfy the love of mountaineering." Soviet climbers managed to prove that they do not single out love for mountaineering as something self-sufficient, but always subordinate it to the main tasks set before the development of the Soviet physical culture movement. Very often they put their mountaineering activities at the service of scientific research goals. And if we talk about the love of sports, about the satisfaction that athletes get from mountaineering, or about what attracts them to high and harsh mountains, then Soviet climbers have their own measure for this. They get the more satisfaction, the more difficult the ascent was, the higher and more inaccessible the peak was, the more interesting information was collected for scientists, the more obstacles were met and overcome, the more friendly and stronger the team was, p. who share the joy of victory.

A lot of work on the study of the Tien Shan was carried out by Soviet scientists and climbers in a very short period. In 1929, the map of the Tien Shan was still full of white spots, which were to be filled by subsequent expeditions, specially trained and equipped to work on glaciers and peaks.

Soviet climbers came to the Tien Shan together with scientists and entered its unexplored areas not only for sporting purposes. They solved scientific research problems, unraveled the complex orography of the region, studied glaciation, and compiled maps.

M. T. Pogrebetsky, now an honored master of sports in mountaineering, headed the organization of the Ukrainian expedition to the Tien Shan, which worked in the Tengri-tag region for a number of years - from 1929 to 1933. At first it was a mountaineering sports group. Later, it grew into a complex Ukrainian government expedition, which did a great job of topographic survey; geological exploration and geographical study of the Khan-Tengri massif.

Pogrebetsky set the main sporting goal of his climbing group ascent to Khan Tengri Peak. After two years of work on Inylchek, detailed reconnaissance of approaches and study of the route, on September 11, 1931, the Lord of Spirits was defeated. Soviet climbers climbed to its summit, dispelling the myth of the inaccessibility of Khan Tengri and conquering the first seven thousandth peak. Soviet Union Pogrebetsky's group made this wonderful ascent along the route laid out from the South Inylchek glacier.

In 1929-1930. on the other side of the Stalin Ridge, from the Northern Inylchek glacier, Khan Tengri was stormed by Moscow climbers V. F. Gusev, N. N. Mikhailov and I. I. Mysovsky. They were the first to lead horses to the South Inylchek glacier. However, in 1929 they were stopped by Lake Merzbacher, which separates the tongue of the Northern Inylchek Glacier from the Southern Inylchek Glacier, and they decided to change their route. In 1930, they found a pass in the Sary-jas ridge (pass of the Soviet press) and went through it to the Northern Inylchek glacier, explored it and explored the approaches to Khan-tengri. The following year, a group of G.P. Sukhodolsky went to the Northern Inylchek glacier through Lake Merzbacher, using a rubber inflatable boat, and along its rocky shores. The group climbed the slopes of Khan Tengri from the north to a height of about 6,000 m, but retreated, making sure that there was no way to the top from this side. Having completed the task of reconnaissance, she went downstairs.

Inylchek

In 1932, the work of Pogrebetsky's expedition to Tengri-tag continued. At the same time, a climbing group of the Moscow House of Scientists headed by Professor A. A. Letavet appeared for the first time on the Tien Shan. This small group, consisting of only 4 people, visited the sources of one of the main water arteries of Central Asia - the Syr Darya River, climbed Sary-Tor (5100 m) - the main peak of the Ak-shiryak ridge, then went south, to the sources Dzhangart river. Here Letavet and his companions saw large glaciers and groups of high and difficult peaks of the Kok-shaaltau ridge. From here, by another pass, through the Terskey Ala-tau ridge, they returned to Przhevalsk, then crossed the northern Tien Shan ridges Kungei Ala-tau and Zailiysky Ala-tau and ended their route in the city of Alma-Ata.

Thus, the group crossed the entire high-mountainous Tien Shan from south to north and, with this kind of intelligence, determined several of its routes for the future.

In the next two years, a group of A. A. Letavet visited the sources of the Uzengegush River, in the middle part of the Kokshaal-tau ridge. On the way to this most southern and most remote ridge of the Tien Shan, climbers climbed one of the peaks of the Borkoldoy ridge, near the junction of it with the Chakyr-Korum ridge.

They penetrated this area by going to the headwaters of the Jagololamai River, and found there a kind of mountaineering reserve - a group of glaciers and peaks up to 4500 m (5200) high. -korum; the earth here seemed to bristle with an endless number of needles and thorns "

"Dry fog" - the dust of the Takla-makan desert - hung over the mountains and made it impossible to inspect the peaks of the Kok-shaal-tau ridge from afar, and the group of A. A. Letavet moved further to the Kubergenty pass. From this pass, the sources of the Uzengegush and Ak-sai rivers were visible, collecting their waters from the glaciers of the northern slopes of the Kokshaal-tau ridge, which rises here with peaks close to 6,000 m in height. Having examined this part of the ridge, the climbers mapped a number of glaciers and peaks, gave names to the nameless peaks Kyzyl-asker (Krasnoarmeyets, 5,899 m), Dzholdash (Tovarishch, 5,782 m) and named the large glaciers of the sources of Uzengegush in honor of Soviet geographers S. G Grigorieva and N. N. Palgova.

In 1934, the Letavet expedition again headed to the Kok-shaal-tau ridge, to the Kyzyl-asker peak, and also somewhat east of it to the place where the Uzengegush river broke through the ridge. The composition of the expedition was replenished by young climbers I. E. Maron and L. P. Mashkov.

The group made an attempt to climb the Kyzylasker peak. In two days, climbers passed the glacier and climbed the slopes of this majestic peak to a considerable height. However, deep loose snow and the onset of bad weather delayed the ascent, and on the third day, the group descended into the valley, heading east, down the Uzengegush River, to the sources of its right tributary, the Chon-tura-su River. A glacier named after N. L. Korzhenevsky was examined here. In the middle of the glacier, the group discovered an isolated peak with a height of about 5,000 m and named it Alpinist. Having climbed one observation peak with a height of 4,900 m, Professor Letavet finished his work. A two-day snowfall covered everything around with deep snow, so we had to leave this little explored area, which still has many mysteries and awaits a well-equipped climbing expedition prepared for difficult sport climbs.

In 1936, A. A. Letavet paved the route of his next expedition to the main peak of the Terskey Ala-tau ridge - the Karakol peak (5250 m) and to the Kuilyu-tau ridge. This year, the group of expedition members was replenished with V. S. Klimenkov and V. A. Kargin.

The Kuilyu-tau ridge remained little explored until 1936. Its snowy peaks were clearly visible from all the surrounding ridges and passes, but none of the explorers has yet entered the depths of the Kuilyu-tau massif except for Professor V.V.

The Hungarian traveler Almashy, who also observed this ridge only from a distance, expressed an unlikely, but intriguing scientists and climbers, the assumption that the main peak of Kuilyu-tau is only slightly inferior in height to Khan-tengri. The exploration of this ridge was, therefore, the main goal of the expedition. The Karakol peak was of great sporting interest. It attracted climbers with its height, steep icy slopes, sharp ridge and trapezoid-shaped peak.

This peak is located in the depths of the gorge of the Karakolka River, only 40 km from the city of Przhevalsk. Approaching its foot, climbers overcame the ice wall for two days and reached a long summit ridge, reaching almost 5000 m in the lowest eastern part of the peak. height.

On the south side of the summit ridge, one could see the Kuilyu-tau ridge and a glacier covered with a dense network of cracks with the Kuilyu River flowing from under its tongue. Pointed peaks of Kuilyu-tau, half-covered. clouds moving in from the west looked impregnable, and the climbers tried in vain to determine the gorge along which they could approach them. It was obvious that the Kuilu glacier in the western part of the range could not serve as a way to the main peak, and the "keys to the door" should be sought in the east.

For the purpose of further reconnaissance, the Letavet expedition passed Terskey Ala-tau through the Chon-ashu pass to the Ottuk valley and, further, through the Tornu pass to the Kuilyu river valley. From the Tornu pass, the peaks of Kuilu are comparatively; far away, but they were obscured by overcast clouds.

From the beginning of the Sary-Jas gorge, the expedition turned into the gorge of the Malaya Taldy-su River and settled in a clearing near the tongue of the glacier of the same name. On the second day, Letavet's group passed the entire Small Taldy-su glacier and found an accessible pass in its upper reaches leading to one of the glaciers of the Terekta river system. Near the glacier, there was not a single prominent peak that could be mistaken for the lava peak of the ridge. Disappointed climbers, returning to the camp, decided to change the further exploration plan in such a way as to exclude the descent to the Sary-Jas valley and the long ascent to the neighboring gorge. This could be done by crossing the spur separating the gorges of the B. Taldy-su and M. Taldy-su rivers, and send the horses as a guide around, towards. And so, the next day, the climbers achieved their goal. The brilliant completion of exploration replaced all doubts and disappointment. Letavet himself speaks well about this: “We decided to try to find a passage directly to the upper reaches of the Bolshaya Taldy-su River, directly to the glaciers that feed it.

Sarah Jazz

Climbing up the right (eastern) branch of the Small Taldy-su glacier and forcing a rocky ridge towering above the glacier cirque, we really ended up at the pass point of the ridge separating the gorge of Malaya and Bolshaya Taldy-su. Below, under our feet, lay the Bolshaya Taldy-su glacier, and right in front of us rose a powerful trapezoidal peak sparkling with ice, rising about a mile and a half sheer wall above the glacier. However, this peak could hardly be the one we were looking for. Its contours did not correspond to the descriptions of travelers who observed the summit from the upper reaches of the Sary-jas.

We quickly descended along the steep rocky slope to the Bolshaya Taldy-su glacier in order to immediately begin the ascent to the saddle visible in its upper reaches. The last section before the saddle is very steep. Holding back the excitement, we quickly force it. An involuntary exclamation of amazement breaks out of ours and right in front of us in the rays of the evening sun sparkles, amazing in its beauty, a slender peak. With a two-kilometer wall, it rises above the glacier and is almost not connected with the surrounding mountain system. Climbing it should present exceptional difficulties. The peak is very close - we are separated only by a narrow circus of a glacier flowing south and obviously belonging to the Terekta river system. It is quite obvious that this, finally, is the same peak, in search of which we went to the heart of the Kuilyu ridge. But it is also obvious that its height can hardly exceed 5,500 m above sea level. Evening creeps up unnoticed. We set up our tent on the snowy platform of the saddle. Despite the severe frost, we do not fasten the tent for a long time and we all admire the peak in the light of the moon, it is even more beautiful. Indeed, this is one of the most beautiful peaks I have ever seen. We decide to give the peak the name of the peak of the Stalinist Constitution. The massive ice peak we saw from the pass is named in memory of the then deceased president of the USSR Academy of Sciences - Alexander Petrovich Karpinsky.

The group did not attempt to climb the newly discovered peaks due to the obvious difficulty of the route, the need to select a much stronger climbing team and better equipment. The discovery in 1943 of the peak of Pobeda, the main peak of the Tien Shan, 7439 m high, was one of the largest geographical discoveries of the last twenty years.

Source:

Alma-Ata

Tragedy on the Pobeda settlement in 1955. Tien Shan

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under
Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR
Republican club of climbers and
tourists. REPORT on the work of the high-altitude sports research
expeditions to the Central Tien Shan to Pobeda Peak
7.439.3 meters.
/ July - September 1955 / Alma-Ata
1956

1. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE AREA The mountainous country of the Tien Shan comes with its ranges into the southeastern part of the Kazakh SSR, and its main, central part is located on the border with China, occupying the eastern part of the territory of Kyrgyzstan. Huge glaciation, high peaks and among them the highest point of the Tien Shan - Pobeda Peak - 7.439.3 meters, harsh climate, turbulent mountain rivers, unknown and unexplored riches of the bowels have long attracted the inquisitive minds of travelers, scientists, climbers and climbers to the Central Tien Shan . Despite the available information about the central part of the Tien Shan, compiled by many expeditions, the Tien Shan remains far unexplored, the most difficult mountainous region of the USSR. There are especially many troubles when studying this mountainous country from the changeable weather of the highlands, there are not even systematic meteorological observations in the central glaciated part of the Tien Shan. The particular difficulty of working in the mountains is due to the instability of the weather with a minimum air humidity of 90 percent, sharp fluctuations in temperature from + 25C. up to -40Сgr. and the most unexpected intrusion of cold fronts bringing bad weather with gale force winds. This explains the low attendance of the Tien Shan by sports expeditions. Starting from 1921 to 1955, not much more than a dozen sports expeditions visited the region of the Central Tien Shan, having mastered only 9 peaks. Until now, its highest point, Pobeda peak - 7.439.3 m, remains unconquered. A feature of this area is also its inaccessibility. Mountain rivers, high passes, indented and long glaciers, take travelers a lot of time and effort. The traveler, in order to achieve the goal in the Central Tien Shan, must prepare himself for the most diverse form of transportation from an airplane to a car, on horses or mules, and in all cases ending on foot with a large shoulder load in a backpack. A special place in this remote area is occupied by the Khan-Tengri peaks - 6.995 m., Pobeda - 7.439.3 m. and others. Geographical discoveries and a description of the location of mountain ranges, major glaciers date back to 1929-38. and 1943. Started back in 1902-1903. German scientist G. Merzbacher. A particularly valuable contribution was made by Ukrainian expeditions led by the now Honored Master of Sports M.G. Pogrebetsky. For the first time, diagrams and maps were drawn up about this "white spot" on geographical maps. Separate small sports expeditions, which set primarily sports goals, sometimes supplemented and refined information about this area. The final topographic refinement of the Eastern part of the Central Tien Shan was made by the military topographers of the Turk.VO under the leadership of Lieutenant Colonel Rapasov in 1943. This topographic detachment belongs to the determination of the height of the peak, later called Pobeda and turned out to be the highest point of the Central Tien Shan. Earlier, in 1938, a group of Moscow climbers led by Honored Master of Sports A.A. Letavet tried to climb it. It was the first attempt to subdue an unknown giant. The first attempt to climb the highest peak Pobeda Peak ended in failure. Difficult meteorological conditions, a miscalculation in height, led the group to frostbite on its slopes, the climbers managed to reach a height of 6.950 meters. A visit to the Central Tien Shan by climbers of Kazakhstan began in 1935 with reconnaissance of the approaches and ascent routes to Khan Tengri Peak - 6995m. With the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak in 1936 and Chapaev peak - 6320m. in 1937, climbers of Kazakhstan opened the first pages of high-altitude ascents in the area. In the post-war years, in 1949, climbers of Kazakhstan organized an expedition to climb Pobeda Peak. 1949 was especially different from previous years with unstable weather, heavy snowfalls and powerful avalanches. All this made the work of climbers so difficult and dangerous, who twice fell into avalanches and from a height of 5640 meters were forced to return to the base camp on the Zvezdochka glacier - 4300m, and then descended from the mountains with minor injuries and minor frostbite among the participants. This was the second unsuccessful attempt to climb Pobeda Peak. Persistently conducted reconnaissance of the way to the highest peak of the Central Tien Shan, climbers of Uzbekistan and Turk.VO. Two seasons 1952-1953 they spent in the area of ​​Pobeda Peak, looking for ways to climb to the top, for which they climbed Chapaev Peak and Druzhba Peak, and, as always, invariably, climbers had to deal with the unfavorable features of the Tien Shan climate. In 1954, after successful ascents to the Marble Wall peak - 6400m., Bayankol peak - 5790m. and a number of peaks in the north-eastern part of the Central Tien Shan with a height of up to 5000 m, the climbers of Kazakhstan went to the Pobeda peak area with the task of climbing the Khan Tengri peak. The weather was unusually favorable, and the climbers successfully completed the ascent from 4 to 9 September. It was crowded in the area of ​​Pobeda Peak in 1955. Expedition of the Kazakh club of climbers and tourists, consisting of 28 people under the leadership of the Honored Master of Sports Kolokolnikov E. M. made it her task to climb Pobeda Peak along the eastern ridge. During the same period July-September 1955. The expedition of the Uzbek Committee for Physical Culture and Sports, together with a group of military climbers Turk.VO in the amount of 50 people, planned to climb Pobeda Peak along its northern ridge, and reached a height of 6500 m. Unfortunate weather and the death of the assault group of Kazakh climbers forced them to return without reaching the goal . This is a brief description of the region of the Central Tien Shan and the history of attempts to climb the highest peak of this region - Pobeda Peak - 7439m.

Sketch - page - 1 From the archive of the expedition

Sketch - page - 2 From the archive of the expedition

WORK OF THE EXPEDITION IN THE MOUNTAINS

Report 1955 - page - 1 From the archive of the expedition

Report 1955 - page - 2 From the archive of the expedition

Report 1955 - page - 3 From the archive of the expedition

Report 1955 - page - 4 From the archive of the expedition

Report 1955 - page - 5 From the archive of the expedition

Report 1955 - page - 6 From the archive of the expedition

Report 1955 - page - 7 From the archive of the expedition

Report 1955 - page - 8 From the archive of the expedition

Report 1955 - page - 9 From the archive of the expedition

ORDER
on the high-altitude expedition of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR.
Star Camp. No. 1. August 14, 1955

List of participants in the assault From the archive of the expedition

Task number 1 From the archive of the expedition

RESCUE

• 1st day - 700 m.
• 2nd day - 480 m.
• 3rd day - 400 m.
• 4th day - 100 m.

On political and educational work among the participants of the high-altitude sports and research expedition to Pobeda Peak /July-September 1955/

The expedition began its work on July 1, 1955. 28 people took part in its work. Of these, there were 6 members of the CPSU, 8 members of the Komsomol. Even before leaving the mountains. Alma-Ata, party and Komsomol groups were organized. Comrade ALEXANDROV was elected Party Organizer and Comrade Akishev was elected Komsomol Organizer. The members of the expedition took 2-4 books with them to the area of ​​operations of the expedition, among which were both political and fiction. The Central Committee of the Komsomol provided the expedition with sets of magazines Ogonyok and Krokodil for the second half of 1954 and the first half of 1955. The expedition took a volleyball with a net, chess and the necessary materials for the production of wall newspapers. Us before leaving the mountains. Alma-Ata, a plan of mass-political work was drawn up, which was approved at a meeting of the party group. This plan has been largely implemented. The main difficulty for its full implementation was that the expedition members were and moved all together for only 9 days. The expedition from the city of Alma-Ata left the city of Alma-Ata in three echelons on July 5, 6 and 15, and only on July 29 concentrated all together at the "Green" camp. We were in the "Green" camp on July 30 and 31, and from August 1 to 4 we all moved along the Inylchek glacier to the foot of Pobeda peak. During the expedition, 4 party meetings were held, at which the following were discussed: “Plan of mass political work”, “Results of the first stage of the expedition”, “On organizing the assault on Pobeda Peak”, etc. Similar issues were discussed at general meetings after the party meetings . A number of conversations were held. For example: “Results of the July plenum of the Central Committee of the CPSU”, “On the conquest of the summit of Everest”, “How the assault on the summit of Khan Tengri was organized in 1954” and others. In 2-3 days political information was carried out once. We took material for political information by radio through walkie-talkies. In the camp "Green" on July 31, the first issue of the combat leaflet was issued. Chess and volleyball games and chess competitions were held. If possible, especially in the evening, collective singing of songs was organized. The singing of songs was organized by comrades Usenov, Ryspaev, Akishev and Shipilov. Before the start of the assault, all members of the expedition read the books that they took with them. After that, an exchange of books was made, some books passed from hand to hand. The members of the expedition eagerly read and looked through the magazines Ogonyok and Krokodil. Separate facts of indiscipline were considered by the head of the expedition, where deputy. watered, party organizer, and sometimes the Komsomol organizer. For example, on July 31, in the Zeleny camp, they had a fight and almost fought, etc. Suslov and Ryspaev. This case was analyzed by us in their presence. On the eve of departure from the mountains. Alma-Ata had a bad attitude towards his wife from Sigitov. Having learned this, on June 30 we had a serious conversation with Comrade Sigitov and he promised that after his arrival from the expedition he would settle this issue, and draw up a policy in her name, she receives his salary. Repeatedly we talked with Comrade Solodovnikov about the fact that he often speaks foul language. On individual facts of indiscipline, we made comments immediately. Before any group left somewhere, we talked with the leader and with the whole group. After returning, they arranged an analysis of how they completed the task. We suggested to individual comrades that they send radiograms home. Such radiograms were given by t.t. Semchenko, Sigitov, Zabozlaev. Before the assault, we collected from everyone the text of the radiograms that they would like to transmit, and the radiograms were transmitted to the city of Alma-Ata. Before the assault, the moral and political state of the assault group was excellent. All participants had a great desire to storm and climb Pobeda Peak. The relationship between the participants was good. The discipline was positive, all tasks and assignments were carried out well, with pleasure. In general, the group was mentally prepared for the assault. The group is disciplined, efficient, ideologically sustained. There were no disagreements between the participants, except for the ascent tactics. On this issue, all participants, except for T.T. Grudzinsky and Suslov, supported the opinion of comrades. Kolokolnikov and Shipilov. All participants were against the association with the Turk.VO expedition and the Uzbek Committee. They believed and were sure that the group is better, safer to make the ascent with their own composition. Based on the observations I made before the start of the assault, I can characterize the individual members of the assault group as follows: 1. Shipilov V.I. - a good climber, persistent, organizer, as the head of the assault enjoyed authority. His shortcomings were: the presence of elements of careerism in him, arrogance. Sometimes he commanded when persuading was needed. Comrade Suslov did not like him personally. 2. Aleksandrov K.Ya. - hardworking, hardy, incorruptible, modest was cautious in making decisions. 3. Cherepanov P.F. - Disciplined, sensible person, but among his comrades he was closed. 4. Solodovnikov I.G. - physically strong, hardy, cheerful, sociable person, he expressed his opinions directly and immediately. He liked to swear. 5. Sigitov B.N. - hardy, disciplined, had organizational skills. In dealing with people, he is sharp, quick-tempered. He had elements of alarmism, sometimes exaggerating difficulties. 6. Goncharuk A.F. - a modest, honest, very conscientious comrade. At work he was a great optimist. 7. Ankudimov V.G. is a modest, sympathetic and efficient comrade. 8. Akishev H.A. - Disciplined, responsive comrade. He loved public works and performed them with great willingness. He was modest, considered himself the most inexperienced and physically weak of all the participants. He was physically really weak. 9. Suslov A.D. - politically literate, well acquainted with the history of many ascents. He allowed elements of arrogance, treated his comrades with disdain, believed that he himself knew better than anyone. In disputes, on almost all issues, he believed that only his own opinions were the only correct ones. 10. Selijanov R.M. is a modest, very cultured comrade. Was closed. He did not express an opinion on the work of the expedition. 11. Ryspaev E.M. - a very funny friend. Joked a lot. He liked to hurt someone, to tuck in. Sometimes lazy. 12. Menyailov N.P. - a modest, very executive, hardworking comrade. 13. Semchenko A.A. - hardy, careful comrade. Likes to command, in dealing with people as a senior is rude. 14. Torodin R.M. - physically strong, sociable comrade, but sometimes cowardly, lazy, where it is possible to "dribble". 15. Shevchenko N.G. - physically weak, hardworking, disciplined, but cowardly comrade. 16. Usenov U. - hardy, physically strong, sympathetic comrade. Very hot, does not understand a friendly joke. Deputy Chief
political expeditions: /signature/ /O.Batyrbekov/ 1956.

on medical support for the high-altitude expedition of the club of climbers and tourists of the Kazakh SSR on the ascent to Pobeda peak in 1955

Monitoring of the state of the majority of the members of the expedition began with the period of autumn-winter training in 1954-1955. This observation was carried out by the medical-sports center and by me personally, as the expedition doctor. I have been familiar with the physical condition and health of many members of the expedition for a number of years. During the period of the final formation of the composition of the assault group and the final training, I, fulfilling the task of the Ministry of Health of the Kazakh SSR, was on a business trip, from which I returned on July 13, 1955, i.e. the day before the departure of the third echelon of the expedition from Alma-Ata. Insufficient attention to the formation and preparation of the expedition on the part of the leading organizations affected this front as well. I, as the expedition doctor, could not take part in a detailed study of the state of health of each member of the expedition and participate in the selection of members of the assault group, which was necessary, because. it was me, in the end, who decided the issue of allowing each member of the assault group to climb Pobeda Peak. Each high-altitude expedition must be accompanied by a large research work. The issues of human acclimatization in the conditions of high mountains have not yet found their final solution. In view of this, the original plan provided for the inclusion of a group of medical researchers in the expedition to conduct a series of physiological studies and observations of the state of the human body in high mountains. Changes in the estimate deprived us of the opportunity to carry out a full-fledged research work also because the expedition was not equipped with the minimum equipment for scientific work. This, in our opinion, is also a consequence of the general attitude towards the expedition of the leading organizations of the republic. Both of these shortcomings significantly worsened the conditions for conducting medical control over the state of health, fitness, etc. and reduced medical control to elementary and standard rules and practices. Medical control over the state of health and fitness of members of the assault group. For the first time, we were able to get acquainted with the medical indicators of the state of health and fitness of all members of the expedition after the entire expedition concentrated in the Zelenaya Polyana camp. This primary medical examination of all members of the assault group took 2 days: 30 and 31 July. During this medical examination, no pathological abnormalities were found in the body of the members of the assault group. Blood pressure before exercise and in the dynamics of functional tests, the Kotov-Demin test, Clicquot and Orthostatic tests, remained within the normal range for all the subjects. The indicators of all members of the assault group were good. The blood flow velocity fluctuated in the subjects within the average, normal figures. The second medical examination was carried out on August 13 before the group left for the assault. In the interval between the first and second medical examinations, the members of the expedition performed certain work at various altitudes from 3500 m to 5000 m above sea level and already had sufficient, so-called, work for these heights. active acclimatization. This repeated medical examination revealed the following: all members of the assault group, with the exception of Semchenko, Shevchenko, Torodin and Menyailov, had good indicators of functional tests, blood pressure, blood pressure dynamics during exercise, etc. Blood pressure in MS Semchenko was in the range of 150-170 mm Hg - correspondence before and after exercise. Insufficiently good indicators of functional tests and the state of dynamic changes in blood pressure were noted in Torodin, Shevchenko, Menyailov. The second group of subjects was divided into individuals with relatively good and excellent performance in all studies. The latter was obtained from the following climbers: Shipilov, Aleksandrov, Cherepanov, Sigitov, Ryspaev, Usenov, Selijanov, Goncharuk, Suslov. In connection with the change in the tactics of the assault and the division of the group into auxiliary and assault, it became possible to use the entire group of climbers in preparation for the ascent. Head of the expedition Kolokolnikov and the head of the assault group, M.S. Shipilov was informed of the results of the medical examination, indicating the first group - Semchenko, Menyailov, Torodin, Shevchenko, to use only up to a height of 6500-6600 m. Shipilov's first instruction was carried out, Semchenko and others returned from a height of 6500 m. Therapeutic and preventive work. The expedition was provided with medicines and trauma equipment perfectly. Almost any disease, including massive traumatic injuries, could be successfully treated before the patients were admitted to the hospital. During the period of the expedition before the assault, no serious illnesses were experienced by its members. Minor injuries did not require hospitalization or long-term treatment. At the head of the expedition, Z.M.S. Kolokolnikov during the period of reconnaissance work revealed mild cardiovascular insufficiency, although it was easily resolved under the influence of ordinary treatment measures. After the disaster with the assault group, Usenov, who had frostbite of the feet and hands of the II degree and general chilliness, needed persistent treatment. Rapid evacuation down to the district hospital, and then to the city, with continuous and persistent treatment during the evacuation period, made it possible to preserve his health and limit the levels of subsequent amputation to the phalanges of the right hand. Under the influence of psychic traumas, the state of the cardiovascular system in the z.m.s. Kolokolnikov. This required his immediate evacuation down to the district hospital in the village of Moydaadyr, and then to the city of Przhevalsk. Before going on the assault, the group received the necessary medicines and instructions for their use. Medicines were handed over to the head of the assault, the commanders of the tents and individually to each climber. All were consulted about the rules of conduct in case of possible diseases. expedition doctor,
candidate of medical sciences: /signature/ / S. Zabozlaev /
1956 Copy.
Kaz.SSR Club of climbers and tourists.
comrade Tufan A.F.
Committee for Physical Culture and Sports
under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR.
chairmen

SUMMARY from the order of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR.
№ 480.
dated July 6, 1955
about the expedition to Pobeda Peak

In accordance with the Decree of the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR No. 103 dated February 18 of this year, the Republican calendar plan of mass sports events for 1955, the decision of the All-Union Mountaineering Section and the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR and the act of checking the readiness of the expedition ,
P R I C A Z Y V A YU: Paragraph I In the period from July 5 to September 25, 1955, conduct a high-altitude sports and research expedition to the Central Tien Shan from the ascent to Pobeda Peak-7439 m. Paragraph 2 The composition of the expedition to Pobeda peak is to approve the following: 1 . Kolokolnikov Evgeny Mikhailovich - head of the expedition /ZMS/ 2 . Batyrbekov Orazai Batyrbekovich - Deputy. early exp. p / hour / II category / 3 . Shipilov Vladimir Petrovich - assault commander. group. ./M.S./ 4 . Alexandrov Kuzma Yakovlevich - Deputy. early storm. group. /M.S./ 5 . Cherepanov Pavel Filippovich - participant /M.S./ 6 . Semchenko Alexander Arkhipovich -“- -“- 7 . Solodovnikov Ivan Gerasimovich - participant / I category / 8 . Sigitov Boris Ivanovich -“- -“- 9 . Torodin Rassvet Mikhailovich -“- -“- 10 .Usenov Uralkhan -“- -“- 11 . Ankudimov Vitaly Georgievich -“- -“- 12 . Goncharuk Andrey Fedorovich -“- -“- 13 . Akishev Khusain Akishevich -“- -“- 14 . Shevchenko Nikolai Grigorievich -“- -“- 15 . Suslov Alexey Dmitrievich -“- -“- 16 . Ryspaev Ergaliy Mustafanovich -“- -“- 17 . Selijanov Rostislav Mambetovich -“- -“- 18 . Menyailov Pavel Panteleevich -“- -“- 19 . Zabozlaev Sergey Sergeevich expedition doctor Ph.D. Sciences 20 .Grudzinsky Mikhail Eduardovich research worker. parts 21 . Opilko Grigory Fedorovich host expeditions 22 . Tkachev Ivan Fedorovich groom 23 . Gorokhov Gennady Mikhailovich groom 24 . Oblov Alexey Stepanovich cook 25 . Mulyendson Rudolf Markovich Art. cameraman 26 . Goncharenko Gennady Vasilievich cameraman 27 . Elagin Alexey Alexandrovich radio operator 28 . Sobolev Fedor Alekseevich radio operator Paragraph 3 To the head of the expedition of the ZMS, Comrade Kolokolnikov E.M. when conducting an expedition, strictly follow the guidance materials on mountaineering of the All-Union Committee for Physical Culture and Sports and the instructions of the Commissioner of the All-Comfizcult for the Kazakh high-mountain region. In connection with the conduct of 2 parallel expeditions to Pobeda Peak, the climbing procedure should be established in accordance with the telegraph instruction of the All-Union Committee. Paragraph 4 To the head of the Republican club of climbers and tourists Comrade Tufan A.F. A/ provide the expedition with everything necessary for its successful work in the mountains. b/ maintain regular radio contact during the expedition. Paragraph 5 In order to provide additional security measures, when conducting an expedition to Pobeda Peak, ask the Authorized All-Union Committee for Physical Culture and Sports, comrade Gvalia A., for the period of the expedition, to create a joint rescue group of climbers from camps located in the Zaili Ala-Tau. Paragraph 6 To review the materials of sports groups climbing in the area of ​​the expedition during the preparatory period, approve the route commission consisting of: 1. Kolokolnikov E.M. - prev. commissions /c.m.s./ 2. Grudzinsky M.E. - Deputy prev. /I category/ 3. Shipilov V.P. - Member of the Commission /M.S./ 4. Aleksandrov K.Ya. - -“- /m.s./ 5. Cherepanov P.F. - -“- /m.s./ 6. Semchenko A.A. - -“- /m.s./ 7. Batyrbekov O.B. - -“- / II category / Grant the said commission the right to consider materials on 5 “B” category of difficulty. Paragraph 7 I remind the leadership of the expedition to Pobeda Peak and all the participants of their great responsibility for conducting the expedition at a high sports and technical level and unconditional fulfillment of the tasks assigned to the expedition. Paragraph 8 This order is to be announced to all personnel of the expedition.
Chairman of the Committee
in physical culture and sports
under the Council of Ministers of Kaz. SSR: /signature/ /A.Artykov/
M.P. participants of a high-altitude sports and research expedition to Pobeda Peak. № Surname, name Year of birth. Home address Place of work and position Party. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 . Shipilov Vladimir Petrovich 1929 Alma-Ata, 5th line No. 72. Respubl.klub alpine.commander of the assault rus. Komsomol 2 . Alexandrov Kuzma Yakovlevich 1925 Alma-Ata-1, Papanin St. No. 179 Republican. clubalpin. Chuvash VLKSM instructor 3 . Ankudimov Vitaly Georgievich 1929 Alma-Ata-1, st. Gabdullina №84 VKM turner rus. Komsomol 4 . Goncharuk Andrey Fedorovich 1928 Alma-Ata-1, Suvorov St. No. 76 VCh-4 boilermaker Rus. Member of the CPSU 5 . Akishev Khusain Akishevich 1933 Alma-Ata-2, st. Vinogradov No. 80 student of KazGU Kazakh VLKSM 6 . Semchenko Alexander Arkhipovich 1922 Alma-Ata, st. Ilyich No. 49 teacher of the department of physical education. KazMI rus. b/n 7 . Solodovnikov Ivan Gerasimovich 1921 Alma-Ata Republican club of the Alps. Russian instructor. b/n 8 . Sigitov Boris Ivanovich 1927 Alma-Ata st. Pushkin №7 Republican club of the Alps. Russian instructor. b/n 9 . Torodin Rassvet Mikhailovich 1925 Alma-Ata, 9th line No. 12, apt. 8 Z-d Kirov, shop No. 5, Russian turner. b/n 10 . Usenov Ural 1929 Alma-Ata, st. Krasin №57 Respubl. Alp Club. Kazakh b/n 11 . Cherepanov Pavel Filippovich 1917 Alma-Ata, Mechnikov St. No. 120, apt. 14 CommitteeFK and joint venture under the Council of Min. KazSSR, state coach, Russian. b/n 12 . Shevchenko Nikolai Grigorievich 1926 Alma-Ata, Chekhov St. No. 7, apt. 3 Alma-Ata-1, VCh-4, electric welder Rus. b/n 13 . Suslov Alexey Dmitrievich 1923 VOKS, factory con. insp. gr. Russian Cand. CPSU 14 . Ryspaev Ergaliy Mustafanovich 1931 Moscow, Lefortovo Val, No. 7-a, building 8 MEPhI student Kazakh VLKSM 15 . Selidzhanov Rostislav Mambetovich 1930 Moscow, Lefoto-vsky shaft No. 7, building 1-133 Moscow, MTZ engineer Rus. Komsomol 16 . Menyailov Pavel Panteleevich 1927 Stalinsk, Kemerovo region Ovrazhnaya 26 Instructor of the Metallurg Alpine Camp in Talgar. Russian b/n Note:****VKM - Wagon and wheel workshops of the railway. stations of Alma-Ata-1
****VCh-4 - apparently a military unit
****VOKS - (possibly) the All-Union Society for Cultural Relations with Foreign Countries (why zad?).

ORDER
CHAIRMAN OF THE COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORT
UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE USSR.
December 14, 1955. No. 459.
ABOUT THE EXPEDITION OF CLIMBERS TO POBEDA PEAK

In August 1955, while climbing Pobeda Peak, an accident occurred with a group of climbers, organized by the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR. As a result of organized search and rescue operations and verification by a special commission appointed by the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR. Chairman of the Commission - Honored Master of Sports Comrade Beletsky E.A. The death of 11 climbers - members of the assault group of the expedition - was established. Shipilov V.P., Ankudimov V.G., Akishev Kh.A., Sigitov B.I., Cherepanov P.F., Suslov A.D., Ryspaev E.M. and Selidzhanov R.M. One of the main reasons for the death of the assault group is the fact that, having met with difficult conditions, worsening weather, blizzard and heavy snowfall, the members of the assault group were confused, acted in isolation, did not show themselves as a single, cohesive team. The attempted descent was unorganized. The head of the assault, Comrade Shipilov V.P. failed to organize a group to fight the elements. The gross mistake of the head of the group, Comrade Shipilov V.P. was that, having lost contact with the base camp, he continued to move up. With the correct actions of the group and its leader at the time of the deterioration of the weather, there were opportunities to prevent a catastrophe by sheltering from bad weather in tents or snow caves. The approved tactical plan for climbing Pobeda peak was rejected by the expedition leader, Honored Master of Sports Comrade Kolokolnikov E.M. the ability to resist bad weather and the ability to withstand the complicated conditions of ascent. In connection with the presence of two expeditions, the Kazakh Committee and the Uzbek Committee and the Turkestan Military District, the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR established the priority of the summit assault by the Kazakh expedition. However, the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee and the Turkestan Military District grossly violated this instruction by storming Pobeda Peak the day after the departure of the Kazakh expedition, which created an atmosphere of unhealthy sports competition. Presidium of the All-Union Section, Chairman Honored Master of Sports Comrade Kuzmin K.K., Department of Alpinism of the Committee Comrade Shafeev R.G. did not take a firm position on the issue of joining the forces of various expeditions to Pobeda Peak and did not check their decision to strengthen the expedition by experienced high-altitude climbers. Inclusion in the expedition, etc. Suslova A.D., Ryspaeva E.M. and Selidzhanova R.M. did not strengthen the composition of the expedition to the extent required. The Kazakh Republican Committee for Physical Culture and Sports, the Organizing Committee of the expedition and the Republican Mountaineering Section took the wrong position, rejecting proposals to combine the forces of several organizations for a joint assault on Pobeda Peak. As a result, the climbing staff of the expedition was not strong enough to complete the task of climbing this peak. Lead the auxiliary group of master of sports comrade. Semchenko A.A., having received the task to lower the slightly ill Menyailov P.P. from the ridge, had to remain under the Chon-Toren pass to organize an observation and communication point. Instead, he arbitrarily left for the base camp with the entire group. Head of rescue and search operations, Honored Master of Sports comrade Ratsek V.I., heads of rescue teams and groups, etc. Semchenko A.A. and Nagel E.I. from the moment of receiving information about the emergency situation of the Shipilov V.P. group, work was carried out at a slow pace. The danger of avalanches from the slopes of the Ak-Tau peak and the Chon-Toren pass, which supposedly excluded the possibility of the movement of rescue teams, was overestimated by them. A member of the Presidium of the All-Union Section and a member of the expedition of the Uzbek Committee and the Turkestan Military District, comrade Yurasov L.V., knowing about the decision of the Presidium and the Committee's instructions on the order of ascents to Pobeda Peak, did not take measures to prevent the premature storming of Uzbekistan climbers. P R I C A Z Y V A YU: 1 . Conclusions of the commission of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR, which conducted an investigation into the causes and circumstances of the accident with the expedition group of the Kazakh Republican Committee for Physical Culture and Sports, to approve /Appendix No. 1/. 2 . To announce a severe reprimand to the Chairman of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR Comrade. Artykov A.E., Chairman of the Organizing Committee of the expedition, Deputy. Chairman of the same Committee Comrade Gerzhon S.S. for failure to provide leadership and lack of control over the actions of the expedition. 3 . To announce a severe reprimand to the head of the expedition, Honored Master of Sports Comrade Kolokolnikov E.M. and forbid him to lead mountaineering expeditions in the future for unsatisfactory leadership of the expedition and unauthorized change in the tactical plan for climbing Pobeda Peak. 4 . Announce a severe reprimand, withdraw from the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section Honored Master of Sports Ratsek V.I. - head of the expedition of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Uzbek SSR and the Turkestan Military District. Forbidding him to lead mountaineering expeditions for 3 years for violating the instructions of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR and the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section on the order of priority for climbing Pobeda Peak. 5 . Withdraw from the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section Honored Master of Sports Comrade Yurasov L.V. for failure to take proper measures to prevent violation of the climbing order of the expedition of the Uzbek climbers and the Turkestan Military District. 6 . Deprive the title of master of sports and instructor qualifications from Comrade Semchenko A.A. for violating the order of the head of the expedition, expressed in unauthorized descent to the lower camp, which led to the absence of an auxiliary detachment in the camp closest to the assault group. 7 . To oblige the Administration of Mass Sports and the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section: to hold in January 1956 a scientific and methodological conference on high-altitude ascents, at which to determine the main provisions of the organization and tactics of high-altitude ascents of Soviet climbers. Involve organizations and individuals interested in the development of high-altitude mountaineering to participate in the conference. To approve the conference program /Appendix No. 2/. Submit the materials and proposals of the conference for consideration and approval by the Committee by February 1, 1956. 8 . To oblige the management of Fizkultpromsnab, comrade Mass K.I., to develop new models of mountaineering equipment for high-altitude ascents, taking into account foreign experience, during the first quarter of 1956 by the TsLSI. 9 . Oblige the Department of Educational Institutions and the Scientific and Methodological Council of the Committee to include the following topics in the research plan: A/ “Medical indications and contraindications for mountaineering” b/ “Influence of high-altitude conditions, above 6400 m, on the human body, water-salt regime, diet and oxygen use”. 10 . To allow the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR in 1956 to conduct a 60-day training camp for the training of junior mountaineering instructors with a contingent of 30 people at the ski station. 11 . As an exception, allow the Taldy-Kurgan, East Kazakhstan, South Kazakhstan, Dzhambul and Karaganda regional committees to include climbing equipment in the list of service property, in accordance with Appendix No. 3. 12 . To oblige the Kazakh, Uzbek, Kyrgyz, Georgian republican committees on physical culture and sports and the Central Council of the DSO to discuss this order together with the climbing asset and develop measures to strengthen educational work among climbers, improve preparatory work for climbing and increase demands on climbing groups. Note: **** TsLSI - Central Laboratory of Sports Equipment N. Romanov.
Application number 1.
By order of the Chairman of the Committee on Physical
culture and sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR
dated December 14, 1955 No. 459.

CONCLUSION ON THE CIRCUMSTANCES OF THE DEATH OF A GROUP OF PARTICIPANTS OF THE EXPEDITION OF THE COMMITTEE ON PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE KAZAKH SSR AT THE PEAK OF VICTORY

P.S. In memory of those who died on this expedition, eleven climbers were given the names of a glacier, a pass and a peak in the Sarydzhaz ridge, Central Tien Shan. Administratively, this part of the Tien Shan belongs to the Kazakh SSR. Names were given to Peak Eleven 5437 m., Pass Eleven 5300 m., Glacier Eleven. When creating this album, I used archival materials taken from personal archives:
- Photographs from the archives of Ural Usenov, Viktor Zimin, Mikhail Grudzinsky and Valery Khrishchaty.
- Documents from the archive of Alexander Kolokolnikov (son of Evgeny Kolokolnikov, the head of the expedition) and the archive of Ural Usenov. The album contains two reports, a 1955 report and a more complete 1956 report with analysis, analysis and solutions. From the "fragments" lying and stored in different places, I managed to assemble this "mosaic". In memory of the participants of this tragic expedition. On the analysis and analysis of this tragedy, more than one generation of Soviet climbers was brought up. In 1990, when we passed this place of tragedy, making a traverse of the Pobeda-Khan-Tengri peaks. Valery Khrishchaty told and showed where the 1955 tents were. The USSR national mountaineering team, traversing the Pobeda-Military Topographers peaks in 1988, cleaned up the site of the tragedy. Valery Khrishchaty himself kept diaries of sporting events in which he personally took part. And he was very serious about written documents of this kind. From the stories of Ural Usenov, he knew that Yergali Ryspaev kept a diary of the expedition. And being at the scene of the tragedy, 33 years later, I wanted to find this diary. He warned all team members of his intentions. And after he found the diary in one of the tents, he gave the go-ahead for cleaning. The USSR national mountaineering team, having cut out of the ice, collected all the equipment, clothes, utensils at the site of the tragedy and threw it on the northern wall of the Eastern Pobeda peak, on the territory of the USSR. Work was also done to improve burials. Burials of Cherepanov P.F. - 6600 m. and Ankudimova V.G. – 6250 m were additionally lined with stones. The body of Suslov A.D. could not be found.

Event film:

From the blogger's memoirs: Low emerald grass underfoot, endless blue sky above. Somewhere in the distance above the clouds, very close to space, a snow-white dragon is sleeping - ancient, like our world.

The heavy silver plates of his spine glowed bright ruby ​​against the deep sea of ​​sky. The sharp, horse-bitten grass underfoot is covered with evening dew. We see off our last day in the Celestial Mountains, remembering how we managed to climb almost into space.
The plane landed in Alma-Ata. It turned out to be cheaper than flying to Bishkek. At night we have to get to Karakol. We drive along the Zailiysky Alatau to Bishkek. The sun sets behind the desert land of Kazakhstan, illuminating the vastness of the ocher mountains with its last rays. Night border with Kyrgyzstan - and we are already half asleep driving a Delica (this is such an all-wheel drive minibus based on a Mitsubishi Pajero) along Kyrgyz roads. It was one of the most difficult nights for me: the driver, a rude Russian peasant, apparently had not slept for several days. And the Delica is a car from Japan, right-hand drive - and sitting in the traditional driver's seat for me turned out to be like riding a roller coaster, the bolts of which are ready to pop out at any moment. The night was too long - for me and for the driver. In the morning, before dawn, through half-asleep, I saw soft, barely noticeable waves of the Issyk-Kul mirror. A huge lake spilled over the valley like a crimson dawn. The driver is very ill in the morning - he is shaking, shaking from lack of sleep, turning inside out. Cold water, nuts, wind in the face - almost nothing helps. Sometimes he is cut down right on the road, and the car is taken to the side, into the units of oncoming cars. A couple of times you have to push the steering wheel to avoid a collision and wake up the poor fellow. Already ahead looms the peak of the Crystal Mountains with a pink tooth. Dawn brings life and lightness, releases a little fear for their children. A slender row of poplars, Karakol Bay - all this is now perceived as a gateway to a new world.
The car brought us to the Khanina camp site. It is the patron saint of all local tourists. A short, mustachioed, bald man, calm as a rock, opens the gates of his house for us early in the morning so that we can prepare for the first meeting with the Tien Shan. Based on the sad experience of last night, I decide that it would also be better to turn to Khanin for a transfer from Alma-Ata. You can rent equipment from Igor, and buy gas, and throw yourself into the mountains on a watchman, and in the virtual absence of the Kyrgyz Ministry of Emergencies, he fulfills his role. But at the same time, of course, you need insurance, ready even before the trip itself.
The watchman is actively smearing us on the seats on the mountain road. It’s probably hard to come up with a car more suitable than ZIL for mountain roads and rocking tourists (rather, turning us into an omelet).
The watchman brought us to the Karakol alpine camp. "Alpine camp" - loudly said, there are only a few large canvas tents, but there is everything a tourist needs: food, a bathhouse on wheels (for a couple of people), a clearing for tents. The only stone structure of the camp is a toilet.
1. It is very convenient to walk radial routes for several days around the Karakol alpine camp - which we took advantage of. Tourists visiting the Tien Shan have a long and very strange tradition of winding loops around Lake Alakol and the Karakol alpine camp. Someone is attracted by aesthetics: views of the lake from the passes, snowy peaks. And for some, it’s just an opportunity to devour another watermelon in the alpine camp upon completion of the ring and drag another one to the foot of the glacier, leaving part of the equipment in the alpine camp.
So we - left the cast, prudently made sure that there were watermelons - and hit the road. From the Karakol alpine camp, a path rises up through thickets, clearings and dense forests. The trail leads up through waterfalls and gorges. Further, closer to the sky, clouds. The sun here becomes brighter, there is less air, but the pleasant azure above your head gives you the strength to move towards the goal - to Lake Alakol. Thus begins our wonderful journey through the emerald Heavenly Mountains. It seems that the abyss separates us from the distant sharp peaks, soaring like elegant crystal above the clouds.


2. After the city, the first days are so unusual to feel in this world! There is fresh air, wind in the face, heavy climbs, and delicious dinners by the murmuring streams. You remember - and at first you do not believe that such worlds exist. You think - dreamed. But closing your eyes, you see and feel how the wind smoothes the grass on the peaks, and the mountains pick up the clouds, playing with them on the fly.


3. A kilometer of climb on the first day is not easy: we crawl like a train along a mountain path through fields of flowers, crossing streams, stopping in the shade of trees. Despite the severity of the route, you feel light and free.
4. The reward for our efforts is a view of the evening lake Alakol at an altitude of 3.5 thousand meters. The lake feeds a large glacier from the Karakol wall, and it flows out into a narrow drain. As if someone pulled a cork from the banks - and the lake slowly merges, giving rise to a large waterfall. We decide to stand on the other side of the "plum". It would seem that one jump - and you are on the other side. But I am very worried about my guys: below is an abyss, the water rushes down in a raging stream of a waterfall.


5. In the evening - our first stop on the lake. The Milky Way is clearly visible here, the night is cold and moonless. While filming - I almost sat in the lake, but it is getting colder! (however, this did not discourage the girls from swimming).

6. In the morning - early rise, we climb the Alakol Northern pass to look at the lake from above, and go down to the Arashan valley. Means "Alakel" in Kyrgyz "Motley Lake". And like any self-respecting mountain lake, its color changes from the strength of the wind, light, weather. Meteorologists say so, but we believe that the motley lake has its own character. For example, on this gloomy day, the lake seems to glow from the inside, not letting us get bored.


7. And someone even left a heart here.

8. Leaden clouds fly from Issyk-Kul in the afternoon. As it turns out, it's like this every day. The morning is clear, the freshness of the mountains, pure colors greets us, and the clouds see us off into the night, sometimes pouring rain or meeting with snow. I am always accompanied by a couple of kind angels, so I managed to capture them - they are trying to conjure the sun. Yes, yes, did you think that only the camera takes pictures? Angels are also very important.


9. After sitting a little above the clouds, approaching the Cosmos, we slowly descend down to the Arashan valley.


10. It is hardly possible to meet mountains greener than the Tien Shan. And at sunset, the small grass gently reflects the rays falling on it - and it seems that millions of sun hares playfully skip between the emerald blades of grass. The mountains live, breathe and wait for the traveler, and the sun sometimes sends him farewell rays on a cool evening. On the way we meet yurts, the Kirghiz affably wave to us, smiling with silver teeth.


11. Somewhere in the Arashan valley thermal hydrosulphuric springs are hidden, but we pass by - we go around the ridge and again come under the snowy wall of the mountains.

12. The Tien Shan cannot be confused with any mountains: such an abundance of livestock, green lawns, and the highest peaks cannot be found anywhere else. The pines in the valleys pierce the sky with tall straight arrows, the horses follow us with their eyes. It is felt that the mountains breathe, live - these are the brightest, greenest mountains that I have been to. Even on a cloudy day at the foot of the glaciers, emerald fields of short grass spread out before the viewer.


13. And our path goes up again. We made the route with rings - so that you can always go down to the alpine camp. And it is always difficult to understand the scale when planning on the map: almost every day we had to either climb or descend a whole kilometer! So it is today: a long, drawn-out ascent under the pass among the cold mountains, under a drizzling rain.


14. High in the mountains is already a completely different world. Rocks dominate here, harsh, cold stones surround small meadows of grass. But even here brooks murmur, ground squirrels busily peep out of minks, and whistle warily. The whistle is reflected by a booming echo from the massif of mountains.


15. It feels like you are preparing to storm a large castle.

16. Morning meets with fog, we climbed under the very clouds. Taking the Taktyktor Pass in such weather is not an easy task. So we prepare as best we can.


17. For example, we smear ourselves with cream (a very urgent task because there is nothing to do!).

18. We storm stone walls and sharp rocks.

19. A traditionally wonderful view opens up on the glacial lakes under the Taktyktor pass (in the common people - Traktor). It seems that meteorites fired at the earth and left such funnels. Somewhere on the right, traces of tourists are lost, we are descending along them.


20. Falling down to the waist in sleet, it's hard to go. The glacier is closed, with a lot of snow - so we go in bundles. We pass the remains of the first "meteorite".


21. Wet, frozen, but happy, we get out to the open part of the glacier, where the ice under our feet is already solid. It feels like you are standing in a bowl of crystal, the mountains propping up the sky. Here it is so close to the sky, to the clouds, that it seems that you can reach them with your hand. Sasha encroaches on the nearest peak :-)

22. Impressive snow cornices rise on the peaks, and somewhere below, in the valley, the emerald grass is still green, and the rivers are noisy.


23. Rock climbers, girls won the Traktor Pass.

24. To understand the scale of the "glacial puddle" - you can look for a person in the frame. A giant dish with soft edges attracts, between such lakes there is a complex system of ice bridges.


25. The glacier meanders with tongues, crashing into the mountains in soft lines. We descend along it, but the piercing wind does not let us in, meeting us with new sharp gusts.


26. But in the parking lot, the sun and soft grass, flowering fields and lakes lost in pockets of moraines await us. Streams from the glacier gather into a large swift stream, which spreads like an oasis at the foot of the valley, nourishing the soil.

27. From the book about Semenov Tien Shan:
“From the moment Semyonov saw the Heavenly Mountains, they bewitched him. He kept looking at the snowy and colorful peaks, discovering more and more beauty in them. Their giant horseshoe hung over wild gardens, over the Ili valley. Semyonov saw how weightless clouds were born in dark gaps. With unfathomable rapidity they gather into thunderclouds, and stifling direct downpours fall upon the valleys. He saw the green and dark spots of the gardens, they floated on each other, connected with each other and changed colors, like waves in the solar wind. And on the left was the Kirghiz steppe, already quite reminiscent of a foggy sea. It shimmered like the sea with smoky air, unsteady billows of sand, wide shadows of clouds sliding in all directions.


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32. By evening, giant clouds rise again from Issyk-Kul. They are measured and decorous, waddling over the ridges. As if reluctantly climb to the top. And through them the evening sun begins to break through.


33. It turns out that we have chosen the most beautiful point for spending the night - from here you can see both the lake and the setting sun. This is a place for meditation, contemplation of the wonderful phenomena of nature.


34. And nature did not stint on them: a wonderful rainbow over the Heavenly mountains appeared for a moment in the rays of the setting sun.


35. When such wonderful things happen in the mountains, you want to jump for joy, happiness. Everything happens in a matter of seconds - but so many emotions: wind, rain, and snow over the peaks of the mountains. The light moves, emphasizes the contours of the mountains. The landscape comes to life, spiritualizes at such moments.


36. In the evening, all the flowers drooped, the cold descended from the sky, and filled with heavy tones all the shadows of the stones.


37. And in the morning - again the warm sun, the quiet air of the valley. And only the whistle of marmots pierces the pure, clear atmosphere with an arrow.


38. One of the moraine lakes (which in the photographs from above seemed like a heart), reflects the deep wrinkles of the ancient mountains.


39. Our "motley lake" is very calm today. Still lazily sleeping in the reflection of the azure sky, keeping the calm of the morning in cozy bays.

40. Today we have to return to the “drain” of the lake again, walk along its right bank.


41. The tranquility of the lake is short-lived - after a while it will slowly wake up, stretch, and again change its mood to some other color - whatever it wants today.


42. It is especially pleasant to find yourself on the shore of Alakol after the glacier - the warmth of the sun warms the soul.

43. And in the next part we will continue our journey through the Tien Shan, we will go to new peaks! :-)