Mountain systems of Kazakhstan: central Tien Shan. Northern Tien Shan Where is the Tien Shan

The Tien Shan mountains excite the imagination of many, many travelers. I really want to come here, look at the snow caps with my own eyes, feel the power and strength of this place!

To be honest, not everyone succeeds. Why? As a rule, there may be several reasons, but among the main ones I would like to highlight the following. Remember where the Tien Shan is located. Agree, this is far from the center of the intersection of the main tourist routes of the planet, which means that getting to this point on the planet is both long and expensive. Only the most desperate can afford it. Secondly, in order to go to conquer the grief of the Tien Shan, considerable physical preparation is needed. For a beginner, such a journey can actually be dangerous.

However, this article will not only tell about where the Tien Shan is located. In addition, the reader will receive valuable information about many other things. For example, about the characteristic features of this object, about its climate, about legends and myths, flora and fauna.

Section 1. General Information

The Tien Shan mountains, photos of which can be found in almost any atlas that tells about the geographical features of our planet, are located in Central Asia on the territory of several states at once (Kyrgyzstan, China, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan).

A significant part of the western range is located in Kyrgyzstan, the eastern half comes within China, the northern and western ends are in Kazakhstan, and the southern extreme points are within the borders of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan.

It should be noted that the Tien Shan ridge lies mainly in latitudinal and sublatitudinal zoning. These are one of the highest mountains in the world, among which there are many peaks over 6.0 thousand meters high.

The highest points include Pobeda Peak (about 7440 meters), rising on the border of Kyrgyzstan and China, and Khan Tengri (almost 7000 meters), located in Kyrgyzstan near Kazakhstan. It is even difficult for the inhabitants of the flat territories to imagine how it is to live at the foot of giant mountain giants, the peaks of which rise far above the level of cloud formation.

In general, the mountain system is divided into several regions: Northern, Western, Southwestern, Eastern, Internal and Central.

Section 2. Blue Mountains, or Tien Shan. Highland climate

The climate of this system belongs mainly to the sharply continental type, characterized by hot and dry summers with little precipitation.

Winter is characterized by harshness and high temperature fluctuations, low cloudiness and excessive dryness of the air. In the mountains, there is a significant duration of sunshine, which is up to 2700 hours per year. Of course, such data is unlikely to say anything to an ordinary person, so for comparison, we note that, for example, in Moscow, the average annual figure is only 1600 hours. The change in these values ​​is influenced by high-altitude cloudiness and the complexity of the landscape.

The amount of precipitation depends on zonality and increases with elevation. The least precipitation falls on the plains (150-200 mm per year), and in the regions of middle mountains this figure already reaches up to 800 mm per year.

Most of all it is necessary for the period of spring and summer. The high dryness of the air affects the formation of snow cover, which differs in different areas. For example, the Tien Shan mountains in Kazakhstan (northwestern slopes) have a snow line that forms at an altitude of 3600-3800 meters, in the Central part - at an altitude of 4200-4500 meters and 4000-4200 meters in the Eastern regions. That is, the height largely determines the conditions for the formation of the climate of a particular area.

A large accumulation of snow and ice on the slopes of the Tien Shan mountains with the onset of heat can lead to dangerous avalanches. That is why travelers should be extremely careful.

Section 3. Geographic features

The Tien Shan mountains are located in Central and Central Asia and are among the highest mountains of alpine folding on the entire planet. At an altitude of 4000 m, traces of ancient leveled surfaces have been preserved.

It should be noted that the Tien Shan mountains, the photos of which literally amaze with their splendor, are still in tectonic and seismological activity.

It is hard to imagine that more than thirty peaks of the mountain range have a height of more than 6000 meters. Of these, the highest are Pobeda Peak (7439 m) and Khan-Tengri Peak (almost 7000 m). The length of the system from west to east is 2500 km.

Formed from igneous, and intermountain depressions - from sedimentary rocks. The height of the Tien Shan mountains, of course, leaves its imprints on their features. The main part of the slopes has a high-mountainous relief with glaciation forms and scree rocks.

It has been established that at an altitude of over 3000 m, the permafrost zone begins. Between the mountain systems there are intermountain basins (Issyk-Kul, Naryn and Fergana).

To date, deposits of minerals have been discovered in the depths of the Tien Shan: cadmium, zinc, antimony and mercury. And in the depressions - oil reserves. Numerous glaciers and avalanche-prone snowfields. If we imagine where the Tien Shan is located from an economic point of view, it immediately becomes clear how great the role of this mountain system in the welfare of the surrounding states is.

In addition, it should be noted that Chu, Tarim, Ili, etc.) and lakes (Issyk-Kul, Chatyr-Kul and Song-Kel) belong to the water bodies of internal flow, which means that they have a significant impact on the climate of the Tien system -Shan. Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, China and Uzbekistan have long since learned to use these features to their advantage for industrial purposes.

In general, the mountain chain consists of the following orographic regions:

• Northern Tien Shan, including the ranges of Kirghiz, Ketmen, Kungei-Alatau and Zailiyskiy Alatau;
• Eastern Tien Shan - Borohoro, Boglo-Ula, Kuruktag, Sarmin-Ula, Iren-Khabyrga, Karlytag Halyktau;
• Western Tien Shan - Talas Alatau, Karatau, Ugam, Pskem and Chatkal ranges;
• Southwestern Tien Shan: the southwestern part of the Fergana Range and the mountains surrounding the Fergana Valley;
• The Inner Tien Shan is located within the Kyrgyz Range, the Fergana Range, the Issyk-Kul Depression, the Kokshaltau Range and the Akshiyrak Mountain Range.

To the west of the Central regions, three mountain ranges are formed, separated by intermountain depressions and connected by the Ferghana Range. The eastern region of the Tien Shan consists of two mountain ranges up to 5000 m high, separated by depressions. Flat elevations up to 4000 m are typical for this area - syrty.

The Tien Shan mountains have a glaciation area of ​​7300 sq. km. The largest glacier is South Inylchek. A significant area is occupied by mountain steppes and semi-desert. The northern slopes are covered mainly with coniferous forests and meadow-steppe, which pass higher into subalpine and on syrts - a landscape of cold deserts.

Section 4. The height of the Tien Shan mountains: myths, legends and features of the origin of the name

Many inquisitive travelers know that this name means “Heavenly Mountains” in Chinese. According to the Soviet geographer E.M. Murzaev, who studied the geographical terminology of the Turkic language, this name is borrowed from the word Tengritag ("Tengri" - "divine, sky, God" and "tag" - "mountain").

The Tien Shan, photos of which are quite common in periodicals, are famous for many legends associated with the description of certain places, most likely representing local attractions. Both the first and second stories in this section are about the Alatoo mountain range, located in the northern region of the Tien Shan.

Manchzhypy-Ata

One of the world-famous sights of Alatoo is the beautiful valley of the sacred springs of Manchzhypy-Ata, which is a popular place of pilgrimage. Here is the mazar of the great teacher of Sufism and the holy propagator of the Islamic faith among the nomadic Kyrgyz. Manchzhypy-Ata is not a person's name. So in various Turkic languages ​​they called a respectable person, the patron of the area and wanderers, the righteous or the owner of fertile pastures. The valley consists of many gorges, from the ground of which miraculous springs gush. Each of them is considered healing, and their unusual properties have been proven by several leading experts on the planet at once.

Of course, in ancient times, these springs could also serve as a watering place for animals. But over time, the preacher of Islam was endowed with the miraculous powers of the owner of the springs.

Those who happened to visit the Tien Shan mountains in Kyrgyzstan, whose photos are especially breathtaking, must have heard the statements of local experts that springs endow those in need with the gift of family well-being, bestow knowledge and insight, and relieve infertility.

Tale of Alatoo

A picturesque place belongs to this fairy tale, located in the seasonal channel of rain mudflows flowing from the foothills of Terskey-Alatoo to Lake Issyk-Kul. Despite the fact that the clay cliffs of the gorge, overgrown with shrubs, at first look dull, looking closely, you can be surprised how much they change their appearance and appear in all their splendor.

Thanks to this, the name of the canyon "Fairy Tale" appeared. A fantastic world opens up here: multi-colored rocks of bright shades are frozen in unusual shapes, and natural statues of limestone and sandy rocks grow out of the ground, similar to prehistoric inhabitants or the ruins of castles.

The legend about this miracle of nature appeared recently. It says that the beauty of the gorge is unique, and if you come back here again, each time the gorge will look different. That is why excursions here are arranged with enviable constancy, and the flow of travelers has not dried up for many years now.

By the way, not everyone knows that in addition to Alatoo, the name of the ridge has several more options - Atatau, Altai and Alai, which means "Motley Mountains" in Turkic. Most likely, this is a description of the entire territory of the Northern Tien Shan, which is famous for its inconstancy and diversity. Here, green meadows intertwine with rivers, snow-white peaks coexist with multi-colored rocks covered with coniferous forests and bright foothill steppes.

Section 5 Inland Waters

The Tien Shan mountains in Kyrgyzstan, as, indeed, in all other countries, are the territory of the formation of runoff, where many rivers originate from glaciers and snowfields of the glacial-nival zone and end in endorheic and inland lakes or form "dry deltas" , when the waters are absorbed into the sediments of the plains and go to irrigation.

All the main rivers that have their sources in the Tien Shan mountains belong to the basins of the Syrdarya, Talas, Ili, Chu, Manas, etc. The rivers are fed by snow or glaciers. The runoff peak is observed in the spring-summer period. The waters are used to irrigate not only the interior valleys and depressions, but also the neighboring plains.

Large lakes of the mountain system are located at the bottom of intermountain basins and belong to the tectonic period. Such reservoirs are the salt lake Issyk-Kul and the alpine lakes Chatyr-Kol and Son-Kul, almost always covered with ice. There are also cirque and near-glacial lakes (Merzbacher). The largest body of water in the Eastern region of the Tien Shan is Bagrashkel, connected with the Kanchedarya River.

There are many small reservoirs, most of which are deep with steep banks and have a dam-dam origin (Lake Sary-Chelek).

Section 6. Area of ​​glaciation

The number of glaciers in the mountain system is more than 7700. Among them there are valley, hanging and cirque types.

The total area of ​​glaciation is quite impressive - over 900 square meters. km. The Terskey-Alatau ridge is characterized by glaciers of flattened peaks, consisting of underdeveloped moraine formations.

The Tien Shan mountains form glaciers at a continuous pace. This means that the slowly retreating part is being replaced at the same speed by others.

During the global ice age, this entire surface was covered with a thick layer of ice. Until now, in different mountainous regions of the world, one can find the remains of general glaciation - ramparts, moraines, cirques, troughs and high-mountain glacial lakes.

It should be noted that without exception, all the river systems of Central Asia have their sources from the well-known Tien Shan glaciers. One of them is the large river Naryn (Kyrgyzstan). The Tien Shan mountains are the highest here, which means that they may well contribute to the formation of such powerful water arteries.

Smaller glaciers feed mountain rivers - tributaries of the Naryn. Descending from the peaks, they overcome a huge path and gain gigantic strength. A whole cascade of large and medium-sized hydropower plants has been built on Naryn.

The pearl of the Tien Shan Mountains is the picturesque lake Issyk-Kul, which occupies the 7th place in the list of the largest and deepest reservoirs. It is located in a giant tectonic basin between mountain ranges. Both locals and numerous tourists like to relax here, coming with whole families or noisy friendly companies.

The area of ​​the lake is 6332 sq. m, and its depth reaches more than 700 m. Other large lakes of the Inner Tien Shan - Song-Kel and Chatyr-Kel can be added here.

In the highlands there are many small reservoirs of glacial and periglacial type, which practically do not affect the climate of the area, but are considered favorite places for recreation.

It is unlikely that anyone will dispute the fact that, say, the Tien Shan mountains in Kyrgyzstan, pictures of which are quite common, are a place worth visiting at least once in a lifetime. The same trend is observed in other countries. Every year more and more travelers from all over the world come here to rest.

Section 7. Features of the local fauna

If you think about where the Tien Shan is located, we can assume that its fauna is certainly represented by the inhabitants of the desert and steppe fauna.

The most numerous representatives of the local fauna include goitered gazelle, ground squirrel, stomp hare, gerbil, jerboa, etc.

Of the reptiles, there are snakes (patterned snake, muzzle, viper) and lizards.

Of the birds, larks, bustards, partridges, and imperial eagles are common.

But representatives of the forest fauna live in the mid-mountain regions - a wild boar, a brown bear, a lynx, a wolf, a fox, a roe deer, etc. Of the birds, the nutcracker and crossbill prevail here.

Above in the mountain ranges live marmots, voles, argali and stoats. The most beautiful and rare predator is the snow leopard (irbis). From birds - eagles, vultures, lark, alpine jackdaw, etc.

Waterfowl species of birds (ducks, geese) live on mountain lakes. On Issyk-Kul during the migration period, you can see swans, and on Bagrashkul - cormorants and black storks. There are also many fish in the lakes (chebak, marinka, osman, etc.).

Section 8. Pobeda Peak - history of conquest

Many argue that the Tien Shan mountains in Kazakhstan, whose height often exceeds 6,000 meters, give the impression of giant giants, reaching almost to the sky. However, the highest point is still not here.

Pobeda Peak (Chinese name Tomur) is located in Kyrgyzstan near the borders of China. It is included in the list of the highest peaks (7439 m).

Presumably, the peak was first conquered by a group of Soviet climbers in 1938. Although there are doubts that they reached the top. In 1943, in honor of the victory over the Germans near Stalingrad, the government of the USSR poisoned a team at Pobeda Peak.

Also in 1955, two teams set out to climb the summit. The route of one of them ran from the Chon-Ton pass in Kazakhstan, and the other - along the Zvezdochka glacier in Uzbekistan. Due to weather conditions, the team from Kazakhstan, having reached 6000 m, was forced to descend back. Of the 12 people in the group, only one survived. Since then, the mountains have had a bad reputation. The ascent continues to this day. Basically, these are daredevil climbers from Russia and the CIS.

Section 9. Heavenly Lake of the Tien Shan

110 km from Urumqi, high in the mountains of China, hid the purest lake Tianchi (“Heavenly Lake”), which has the shape of a crescent. The surface area of ​​the reservoir is about 5.0 sq. km, depth - over 100 m.

Residents call the lake the "Pearl of the Heavenly Mountain". It is fed by the melt waters of mountain peaks. In summer, the reservoir saves people with its coolness from the heat. Tianchi is surrounded by snow-white peaks, the slopes of which are covered with coniferous forests, and flower meadows. One of the peaks is Bogdafen Peak, which is over 6000 m high. Eagles soar in the sky above the lake.

The lake received its former name in 1783. It used to be called Yaochi ("Jade Lake"). The legend says that the reservoir was the font of the Taoist goddess Xi Wangmu, the keeper of the springs and the fruits of immortality. A peach tree grows on the shore, whose fruits give people eternal life.

Section 10. Mountain tourism

Many travelers, especially sports enthusiasts, try to visit the Tien Shan at least once in their lives. Photos taken here by travelers who have already been here will help someone decide on a new vacation destination. And someone will consider them, anticipating the next trip.

The main area of ​​all the aforementioned countries consists of mountainous terrain. It is not surprising that these regions are ideal for the development of ski tourism. There are many resorts on the mountain slopes, the tracks of which are suitable for both professionals and beginners. For convenience, there are equipment rental points, and experienced instructors will help you master your skiing skills.

For example, in Kyrgyzstan, the ski resorts Oru-Sai, Orlovka, Kashka-Suu and Karakol are very popular.

The skiing season opens in December and ends at the end of March. The best months for skiing are February and March. In the highlands on the glaciers, the snow does not melt even in summer. Freeride enthusiasts can use a helicopter or car to climb the hill. For climbers, climbs to peaks and glaciers and descents are organized. The slopes of the mountains are suitable for skiing and snowboarding.

Geography

The largest glacier here is the southern Inylchek, in the area of ​​​​Lake Merzbacher, its northern branch branches off from it - the northern Inylchek. Other large glaciers in the area are Semenova, Mushketova, Bayankolsky, Kaindy, Kuyukap. The southern Inylchek glacier has many tributaries, including large ones that have received their name. The northern tributaries are the Demchenko, Razorvanny, Semenovsky, and Stav glaciers.

Top view of the upper reaches of the Sarydzhaz and Tengritag ridges

From the west, the region is limited by the level of the lower reaches of the Sarydzhaz River. The dimensions of the Kyrgyz part are 50-70 km in the latitudinal direction, 20-50 km in the meridional direction.

The glaciation zone continues further to the east, mirroring all glaciers in the Meridional Ridge. The northern Inylchek glacier is reflected to the east by the Karagul glacier, and the southern Inylchek by the Tugbelchi glacier. Both of these glaciers are 35-40 km long.

To the west of this node is the Kichikteren glacier, the eastern neighbor of the Chonteren glacier. The spur or ridge separating the Chonteren and Kichikteren glaciers is a direct continuation of the Meridional ridge, which dissolves into the plain 40-50 kilometers to the south.

Even further to the east, already beyond the Muzart River, there is another glaciation zone headed by the Muzart-Baskelmes glaciers (35-40 kilometers long) and a grandiose ridge from the south of the glacier with the main peak 6637 with the beautiful name White Lotus - this is just that peak , which was one successful ascent of the Japanese expedition. This ridge to some extent looks like a continuation of the Tengritag ridge, cut here by the river. Muzart, just like Kokshaaltau, is cut through the river. Sarajaz. And the White Lotus peak is not the only one here - on a section of the ridge of 15-20 km, another 7-8 six-thousanders can be noted, which, again, no one has yet climbed. Heights - 6596, 6555, 6549, etc. We have not even seen this part of the Chinese Tien Shan, and I hope that the next expedition to this area will allow us to at least look into this corner for a start.

View to the south-west from the traverse of the village of Kashkar.

Entrances, approaches, decoration

Unfortunately, it is not yet possible to conduct "through" campaigns - starting in Kyrgyzstan and ending in China, or vice versa. You can only jump a little in one direction or another through a couple of passes. Therefore, for the time being, these parts of the regions should be considered separately.

From Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, there are two highways for entering the region. From Kyrgyzstan - through the city of Karakol (former Przhevalsk) along a decent road to the glaciers of Semenov, Mushketov, Yu. Inylchek (to the outpost of Maidaadyr), Kaindy. From Kazakhstan - through the district center Narynkol to the upper reaches of the river. Bayankol (the road ends at the Zharkulak mine), from where it is 12-15 km on foot to the Bayankol glaciers system. Mountain hikes basically begin and end at these points. But in the absence of special restrictions on funds, you can use a helicopter - for small groups passing (i.e. for replanting), for large groups - you can order and pay for a separate board. Today the situation has developed in such a way that the area is served only by Kyrgyz helicopters in the amount of 2 pieces. (I won’t be surprised if there will be one of them next year, because last season one burned down, but I really hope that the second one will be found). The flight is carried out from two points - Karkara (Kazakhstan, through Kazbek Valiev), Maidaadyr outpost (Inylchek river, Tien Shan Travel, Vladimir Biryukov).

If we talk about the most common way of arrival today, this is transport from Bishkek through Karakol to Maidaadyr, then by helicopter to the South or North Inylchek, or on foot (then you can drive a little further by car, or you can hire a horse-drawn transport and use it to get almost to the Yu. Inylchek glacier). The second option is from Alma-Ata to Karkara, from where by helicopter to the same place - that is, to the south or north of Inylchek. Other places to start routes are visited less frequently. And ascents are mainly carried out from the listed camps (a rare exception, repeated more than once in recent years, is climbing the Marble Wall from the Bayankol glaciers).

On the Chinese side, things are somewhat different. In order to enter the area, you must obtain a military permit ($650 per group), a permit to visit the Tomur National Park (another $650) and insurance for all participants ($72/person). So far, today I know only one tour operator who undertakes to arrange all this. And of course, the payment for the operator's services will also be added here.

To enter the region for the first time, we used the then-traditional way of entering the Kashgar Mountains - Moscow-Bishkek-Osh (airplane) - Irkeshtam checkpoint (car) - Kashgar city (car) - Aksu city (train) - settlement. Talak (machine). This journey took 6 days. Back were selected in the same way, but kept within 4-5 days. For the second time, we went directly to China, Moscow-Urumqi-Aksu (airplane) - Talak (car). This option took us 2 days, and today is the best route to enter the area. But if we talk about a flight from Moscow, there is no direct flight to Urumqi now, so we have to fly with a transfer. From the nearest cities, planes fly to Urumqi from Novosibirsk, Alma-Ata, Bishkek. Therefore, you can get by plane from any of these cities. Probably, you can still calculate the option of visiting these cities by train, and then by plane. The route by train completely probably does not make sense, although it is theoretically possible. Maybe this option will someday become acceptable - there are persistent talks about the construction of a railway link from Kyrgyzstan to China (Kashgar). Given the speed with which the Chinese are building, I would not be surprised if such a road appears in a year or two after the decision is made. In the meantime, it would be good if the road through Irkeshtam were built - perhaps the drive through Kyrgyzstan, especially to the Kashgar mountains (Kongur - Muztagata) would become quite convenient.

In the neighboring valley - Kichiktereksu - there is a coal mining plant. The valley itself is more extensive than Chontereksu, there are many small settlements. Having descended along a quite decent path to the plant, you can go further by car. By the way, the trail here is really good, but it is easy to lose it, which we did from time to time. In the upper reaches of the river (in a section of 10 kilometers), it often forks, and the chosen path may simply turn out to be a dead end (for example, to a summer camp). The main trail, at the same time, goes 300-400 meters up or down the slope, which is quite difficult to guess. Sometimes local residents helped us get back on the trail, for whom we seemed to act as a visiting zoo. In the river valley You can also visit Kichiktereks at the start of any hike.

We did not try any other check-in options. One of them is along the Muzart River, along which the road rises quite far, and you can reach approximately the level of the Tugbelchi glacier. Probably, there are other options for arrival, but other expeditions have yet to get acquainted with them. There are a lot of dirt roads in these places, only local residents know them quite well (a simple example - our tour operator knew nothing about the coal mining plant and the road there - otherwise we would have immediately planned one of the places where the hike would end.

Geographical position. The Tien Shan is one of the largest mountain systems in Asia. Tien Shan means "heavenly mountains" in Chinese. The territory of Kazakhstan includes almost completely the Northern Tien Shan, parts of the Central and Western Tien Shan.
The Central Tien Shan within Kazakhstan begins from the powerful mountain junction Khan-Tengri (6995 m), at the junction of the borders of China, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Further it extends to the west with a whole series of ridges. The largest of them is the Tersky Alatau. The border with Kyrgyzstan runs along its eastern branch.
The Northern Tien Shan includes the ridges: Ketmen, Kungei Alatau, Zailiysky Alatau, Chu-Ili mountains and Kyrgyz Alatau.
The Western Tien Shan includes the Talas ridge and the ridges extending from it in the southeast direction - Ugamsky and Korzhintau.
Completely within the boundaries of Kazakhstan is Karatau - the most extreme, heavily destroyed region of the Tien Shan.
Relief, geological structure and minerals. The Tien Shan is located in the ancient geo-synclinal zone. It is composed of metamorphosed shales, sandstones, gneisses, limestones and volcanic rocks of Precambrian and Lower Paleozoic deposits. Later continental and lacustrine deposits are concentrated on mountain plains. They consist of clayey, sandy and moraine deposits. Main mountain systems:
The Trans-Ili Alatau is the northernmost high mountain range of the Tien Shan, has a length of 350 km, a width of 30-40 km, and an average height of 4000 m.
The Trans-Ili Alatau rises towards the Talgar, Chiliko-Kemin mountains (Talgar peak - 4973 m), and in the east, to the Dalashyk and Tore tracts, it noticeably decreases (3300-3400 m). The northern slopes of the mountains are especially clearly cut by numerous rivers, which indicates the influence of the glaciation era on them.
The Zailiysky Alatau is composed of ancient sedimentary and igneous rocks of the Lower Paleozoic - sandstones, porphyries, granites and gneisses. As a result of the formation of the Caledonian and Hercynian foldings in the Paleozoic, and then repeated uplift during the Alpine orogeny process, the mountain structure became blocky-folded.
On the peaks, an alpine type of relief has developed. Pointed peaks alternate with intermountain plains. Separate mountainous areas have a stepped relief.
Ketmen - one of the mid-mountain ranges - is located in the eastern part of the Tien Shan. Its length within Kazakhstan is 300 km, width - 50 km, height - 3500 m. It is formed from effusive sedimentary rocks of the Paleozoic. In some places, granite protrudes to the surface of the relief. The slopes of Ketmen are dissected by the rivers of the Ili basin.
Kungei Alatau is included in Kazakhstan only by the northern slopes of its eastern part. The average height of this mountain range is 3800-4200 m. The eastern part of Kungei Alatau and Zailiyskiy Alatau is separated by the valleys of the Charyn and Chilik rivers and the Zhalanash intermountain plain. The slopes of the Kungei Northern Alatau are relatively gentle and strongly dissected, the peaks are leveled.
The Chu-Ili mountains are located in the northwest of the Trans-Ili Alatau. They consist of individual hills that have undergone destruction, strong erosion (Dolankara, Kulzhabas, Kindiktas, Khantau, Alaaygyr, etc.). The average height is 1000-1200 m. The highest point is Aitau, its height is 1800 m. The Chu-Ili mountains were formed from Precambrian metamorphic rocks and thick layers of gneiss. Their surfaces are composed of sedimentary-effusive rocks of the Lower Paleozoic - shales, sandstones. The slopes of the mountains are dry, dissected by deep gorges, the peaks are leveled, and the Betpakdala plateau is located to the north-west of these mountains.
The Kyrgyz Alatau is a large mountain system; its northern slope of the western part is located on the territory of Kazakhstan. Its highest peak is Western Alamedin peak - 4875 m. In the Kazakhstani part, the height of the mountains does not exceed 4500 m. To the west they decrease. The northern slopes are subsided and destroyed mountains. The surface of the ridge is composed of sandstones, limestones and granites of the Carboniferous period. The ridge has an uneven, strongly dissected surface. On the border with Kyrgyzstan, this range has the type of alpine relief.
The Western Tien Shan within Kazakhstan begins south of the Kyrgyz Range, beyond the Talas Valley. Here rises the chain of the Talas Alatau (in the vicinity of the city of Taraz).
Kazakhstan part of Talas Alatau - Zhabagly mountains and Sairam range. The Zhabagly mountains are divided into two mountain ranges: they form the basin of the Aksu-Zhabagly rivers (the height of the northern ridge is 2600-2800 m, the southern ridge is 3500 m). They are also composed of sedimentary and igneous rocks of the Paleozoic. The slopes of the mountains are dissected, bear traces of ancient glaciation, and are distinguished by the alpine type of relief.
The Tashkent mountains consist of several mountain ranges extending southwest from the Talas Alatau. These include the Sairam Mountains (the highest point is Sairam peak 4220 m), Koksu (the highest point is 3468 m), Ugam (the highest point is 3560 m), Karzhantau (2839 m), Kazykurt (1700 m). Their geological histories are similar. All of them are composed of Paleozoic limestones. The slopes of the mountains are steep, the relief is dissected. Karst phenomena are widespread.
The Karatau Ridge is located on the western outskirts of the Western Tien Shan. It extends in a northwestern direction for 400 km, its average height is 1800 m. The highest point is Mynzhylky (2176 m). To the northwest it goes down and already at the confluence of the dry channels of the Sarysu and Chu rivers, the mountain passes to a plateau. In terms of geological structure and relief, Karatau is similar to the Chu-Ili mountains. It settles, collapses and levels out. The northeastern and southwestern mountain ranges of the Karatau ridge are separated by intermountain valleys. If its southwestern ridge was formed from metamorphic rocks of the Proterozoic, then the northeastern ridge was formed from sandstones and shales of the Paleozoic.
The valleys located between the two ridges are composed of red clays. Mesozoic and Cenozoic deposits of limestone, sandstone and clay are also widespread. The local relief was formed in a dry climate. There is no permanent surface runoff. The slopes are dissected by large and small gorges and dry riverbeds.
A large supply of minerals was found on the territory of Karatau. They are used for the production of lead, zinc at the Shymkent lead-zinc plant and for providing chemical plants in Taraz with phosphorus raw materials. Ores are mined in an open way. Karatau is a source of building materials - gypsum, cement, etc., which gives the state a big profit. The folded base of the southwestern and southern parts of the range was formed in the Paleozoic era.
The main shape of the Tien Shan relief was formed during mountain building in the Neogene and Anthropogenic periods of the Cenozoic era. The proof of this is the earthquakes occurring in the Tien Shan. The general view of the relief of the mountains is not the same. In the mountains, high peaks, ridges with intermountain valleys, hilly plains, etc. alternate. The altitudinal belt of mountains is formed in direct dependence on the geographical location and the scheme of mountain ranges.

Climate, rivers and glaciers. The climate of the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan mountain system is dry, unstable, formed in winter under the influence of polar, and in summer tropical air masses. It is influenced by arctic air masses and the Siberian anticyclone. The height of the mountain ranges, the diversity of the relief affects the flow of heat and moisture. Therefore, frosts often occur in the foothills of the Tien Shan in autumn and spring. In the summer months, sultry winds often blow - dry winds. The dry continental climate of the plain in the mountains is replaced by a moderately humid continental climate. Winter is long, from October to April-May, summer is much shorter.
In Kungei and Terskey Alatau, snow sometimes falls already in August and it becomes quite cold. There are often frosts even in May-June. Real summer comes only in July.
The time of the highest rainfall is May. If during this period it rains at the foot of the mountain, then snow falls on its peaks.
On the northern slopes of the Zailiysky Alatau, even in the winter months, there are often warm days. During the day the snow melts, at night the puddles are covered with ice. Such a sharp change in weather has a destructive effect on the rock.
The climate of the Western Tien Shan is influenced by the warm climatic conditions of the south of Kazakhstan. Therefore, in the mountains of the Western Tien Shan, the snow line is higher than in the east. Here the average annual rainfall is higher - 600-800 mm. On the slopes of the mountains, the average July temperature is +20°+25°С, at the foot of the glaciers -5°С.
Many rivers flow along the spurs of the Tien Shan mountains, along the intermountain plains. The Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka, Talgar, Issyk, Chilik, Kaskelen rivers originate from the northern slopes of the Trans-Ili Alatau, and the Charyn River originates from the eastern slopes of the Tien Shan. Many of them flow into the Ili River, the flow of which replenishes the water supply of Lake Balkhash.
The Chu River originates in the Kyrgyz Alatau and, after crossing the border of Kyrgyzstan, flows through the territory of Kazakhstan.
The Arys, Boraldai, and Bogen rivers flow from the southwestern slopes of Karatau. From the northwestern slopes there are some rivers that are fed by melted snow waters in spring and dry up in summer.
In the spurs of the Tien Shan, there are lakes located in depressions between the peaks of the mountains. These lakes originate from glaciers. Below, in the intermountain basins, small lakes are formed.
The peaks of the Tien Shan mountains are covered with glaciers, their especially powerful reserves are concentrated in the Chiliko-Kemin mountain junction. There are more than 380 glaciers in the Zailiysky Alatau, which occupy mountain valleys with a total area of ​​478 km2. They are located in the upper part of the basins, from where the rivers Chilik, Issyk, Talgar, Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinki, Aksai originate. The largest glacier is Korzhenevsky (length 12 km).
In total, there are 1009 glaciers in the Kazakh part of the Tien Shan with a total area of ​​857 km2. Prolonged melting of glaciers and heavy rainfall on hot summer days increase the flow of meltwater to lakes and rivers. This leads to the fact that the water overflows the banks and floods begin. They cause great harm to the economy and pose a danger to human life.

natural areas. Flora and fauna. The natural zones of the Tien Shan mountainous country change along the vertical zonality. These belts have developed in direct proportion to the orographic scheme of mountain ranges and geographical location. Due to the diversity of the natural environment and the characteristic features of each Tien Shan mountain range, the same belts are not located vertically at the same height everywhere: in one ridge they are higher, and in the other - lower.
There are four levels of altitudinal belts in the Northern Tien Shan. If you count them from the very top, then they start from glaciers, from the alpine relief, covered with eternal snows. And in other ridges, the belts begin from a height of 2600-2800 m, in the third - above 3300 m. Here there are hilly hills surrounding bare rocks. Natural areas consist of subalpine and alpine meadows, alpine landscapes. Snow leopards, mountain goats, snowcocks, mountain eagles live in the mountains.
The next altitudinal belt is common in mountains of medium height from 1500-1600 m to 3200-3300 m. Small-leaved and coniferous forests mainly grow on the northern slopes of the mountains. The plains are covered with meadows, on the southern slopes there are signs of steppe and meadow-steppe zones.

Spruce-forest belt.
1. Schrenk spruce.
2. Aspen.
3. Rowan Tien Shan.
4. Honeysuckle.
5. Geranium straight.
6. Siberian larch.
7. Siberian fir

Forests are found only in the gorges. From animals live bears, roe deer.
The belt of low mountains is clearly seen in the Zailiyskiy Alatau. Their height is 900-1100 m above sea level. They resemble the hilly mountains of the central part of Kazakhstan. Various types of plants grow on the dark and dark chestnut soils of this territory: herbaceous, woody (pines), shrubs (meadowsweet).
The lowest altitudinal zone covers intermontane plains and foothills (they are located at an altitude of approximately 600-800 m). In these territories, there are signs of desert, semi-desert, steppe zones. Cereals, melons and horticultural crops are grown here. The meadows are used as pastures for cattle grazing.
The altitudinal belts of the Western Tien Shan are located 100-200 m higher than the Northern Tien Shan. They are affected by the arid climate of Central Asia, less moisture. Types of soil and vegetation cover vary depending on altitudinal zonality. Asian and Indian plant species grow in the Aksu-Zhabagly reserve. And the animals living in the western spurs of the Tien Shan differ markedly from the inhabitants of the Northern Tien Shan. There are more Siberian, European species of animals, and in the West - animals similar to the Mediterranean, African, Himalayan species.
Reserves. In order to protect the nature of the Tien Shan, its flora and fauna, reserves and national parks were organized. Among them, a large place is occupied by the Aksu-Zhabagly and Almaty reserves, the Ile-Alatau national park.
Reserve Aksu-Zhabagly (1927) - a repository of pristine nature of the Western Tien Shan - designed to protect 1404 species of plants (among them 269 rare), 238 species of birds, 42 species of mammals, 9 species of reptiles. Rare species of animals and birds live in the reserve: ground squirrels, bustards, little bustards.
In the Almaty Reserve (1961), 965 species of plants, 39 species of animals, 200 species of birds grow. The snow leopard, brown bear, deer are taken under protection.
In 1996, the surroundings of Almaty were declared the Ile-Alatau National Park. It is located on the territory of over 181.6 thousand hectares, on the northern slope of the Zailiyskiy Alatau. Important activities for the protection of nature are carried out here.

1. According to the tectonic map of Kazakhstan, determine when the processes of mountain formation took place in the Northern and Western Tien Shan. Why does the Tien Shan belong to the seismic zone?
2. Using the climate map, explain the unevenness of precipitation in the Tien Shan.
3. What is the reason for the aridity of the climate? Is it possible to form a climate characteristic of the Tien Shan in its separate parts? Why, if possible?
4. On the map, show the glaciers of the Kazakh part of the Tien Shan. Explain the patterns of their location.
5. What explains the diversity of types of altitudinal belts of the Northern and Western Tien Shan?

Draw on a contour map a diagram of the location of the mountain ranges of the Kazakh part of the Tien Shan.

A sharply continental climate prevails on the territory of the mountain system. Rare precipitation, dry air, light winds and significant temperature changes - these are the features of the area. The winter period is unusually fierce for local latitudes. In the summer months, it is hot in the foothills and valleys, and fresh and cool in the mountains.

The Tien Shan lazily basks in the sun - there is enough light here. On average, the mountain system receives from 2500 to 2700 hours of sunlight per year. For comparison, Moscow accounts for only 1600 hours. In March and April, the picturesque picture is complemented by cloudiness. In August and September, the sky, on the contrary, is clear - not a single cloud. The Tien Shan mountains welcome guests most cordially from May to October: intoxicating aromas of plants, a flowering carpet and a generous scattering of berries.

Exploring the mysterious mountain system

Mentions of the Tien Shan Range are found in ancient writings and notes. Descriptions of expeditions to these places have been preserved, but they are more reminiscent of fiction than reliable facts. The Russian explorer Pyotr Semenov discovered the mountainous "country" and spoke in detail about it.

Up to this point, European information about the Tien Shan remained scarce. For example, the German encyclopedist and geographer Alexander Humboldt believed that the main part of the mountain system was fire-breathing volcanoes. The Chinese sources did not fill in the knowledge gaps. In one of them, which dates back to the 7th century, it was mentioned: in the famous local lake Issyk-Kul, "dragons and fish live together."

Semyonov began to think about the Tien Shan when he took up serious work - translating into Russian the book of the work of the German scientist Karl Ritter "Earth Science of Asia". The task for the young researcher was assigned by the Russian Geographical Society. Semenov approached the task creatively: he not only translated the text, but also provided additional materials from scientific sources. There was little information about the vast Asian expanses, but I really wanted to see the mountains with my own eyes.

For three years the explorer had been preparing the expedition. Humboldt himself blessed the scientist for this risky venture, asking him to bring fragments of Tien Shan rocks as a present. In the spring of 1855, the explorer set off. The artist Kosharov went with him, whose images complement the memoirs of the Russian geographer. The expedition climbed from Alma-Ata to the Issyk-Kul lake. The book "Journey to the Tien Shan" is filled with impressions from the trip.

After returning home in 1857, Semyonov proposed to the Geographical Society to conduct another expedition, but no funds were found for it. In the future, his ideas prompted other researchers to study Central Asia. For Semenov's contribution, half a century later, he was officially given an additional surname - Tyan-Shansky.

"Glum Giant"

The dream of many climbers is to conquer Pobeda Peak, which is located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and China. This beautiful pinnacle has serious requirements for the moral and physical preparation of daredevils. Despite the huge growth of 7439 meters, the peak remained unnoticed for a long time.

In 1936, a group of climbers enthusiastically set off to conquer Khan Tengri. It was believed that this is the highest peak of the Tien Shan. During the expedition, the group noticed a nearby mountain, which competed in height with Khan Tengri. A few years later, climbers headed by Leonid Gutman went to her. The famous Tien Shan explorer August Letavet joined the group. In 11 days, with an almost absolute lack of visibility, we managed to reach the summit. The exact height was determined only in 1943.

From the side, Pobeda Peak resembles a huge, gloomy giant who decided to rest. But the pampered appearance is deceptive: climbers face inclement weather. Only occasionally the northern seven-thousander changes anger to mercy. Severe frosts and snow storms, avalanches and a chilling wind - the mountain tests all the endurance of the daredevils who dared to climb it. The best type of temporary shelter remains a snow cave. No wonder the Pobeda Peak is called the most impregnable and formidable seven-thousander.

But it is difficult to accurately determine the top of the peak - it is smoothed and stretched, so the summit tour was located in different places. In the early 90s, a group of Minskers did not even count the ascent: there was severe bad weather and they could not find the mark of the previous team.

"Lord of Heaven"

Pobeda Peak's neighbor is the formidable Khan-Tengri (6995 meters). It is called one of the most beautiful peaks in the world. The correct pyramidal shape and the mysterious name "Lord of Heaven" fascinate climbers. The Kazakhs and Kyrgyz have their own name for the peak - Kan-Too. During sunset, the surrounding mountains are plunged into darkness, and only this peak takes on a reddish hue. The shadows of the surrounding clouds create the effect of flowing scarlet jets. This effect is created by pink marble, which is part of the mountain. The ancient Turkic peoples believed that the supreme deity lives on a hill.

Khan Tengri was conquered for the first time in 1936. The classic climbing route on the mountain peak runs along the West Ridge. It is not so simple: if there are only a few simple routes in the track record, you should not even try to defeat the “Lord of Heaven”. The northern part of the mountain is steeper than the southern one. But there is less likelihood of ice collapses and avalanches. Prepares Khan Tengri and other "surprises": bad weather, low temperatures, hurricane winds.

Khan Tengri and Pobeda peak belong to the Central Tien Shan. From the center to the west there are three mountain ranges, which are separated by intermountain basins. They are united by the Ferghana Range. Two parallel mountain ranges stretched to the east.

“Slimming” Tien Shan glaciers

The high part of the mountain system is covered with glaciers. Some of them are hanging, which pose a danger to climbers. Glaciers are beneficial for local peoples - they fill the rivers of four countries and are a source of fresh water for the population. But the ice reserves are beginning to dry up. Over the past fifty years, they have decreased by almost a quarter. The area of ​​glaciers has decreased by 3 thousand square meters. km - a little more than Moscow. Since the 1970s, the ice part began to disappear more actively. According to scientists, by the middle of the 21st century, the Celestial Mountains will have lost 50% of their reserves. The changes could leave four countries without a water resource.

Flowers at the foot of the mountains

In spring, the slopes of the mountains are filled with life. The glaciers are melting, and the water goes to the foot of the mountains. The semi-deserts are adorned with ephemeral grasses, the steppes - with wild onions, shrubs and tulips. There are coniferous forests and meadows on the territory of the Tien Shan. Junipers are common. There is a lot of golden root and blackberry here. There are dangerous "inhabitants" - Sosnovsky's cow parsnip. If you touch it, you can get burned. Greig's tulip also grows here, in which the petals reach 75 mm.

In the vicinity of the mountains there are many species of plants and animals that live only here. This is the saker falcon, and the red wolf, and Menzbir's marmot. Another difference of the Tien Shan is the neighborhood of animals and plants of different latitudes. South Indian porcupine and northern roe deer, walnut and fir live together. There are representatives of the steppes, deserts, forests, mountains here ... Thanks to this, several reserves have been created within the mountain system.

Non-freezing lake and its "neighbors"

They feel comfortable on the territory of the mountain system and the lake. The largest is Issyk-Kul. It is located in a deep depression between two ridges in the territory of Kyrgyzstan. Its water is slightly brackish. From the local language, the name is translated as "warm". The lake lives up to its name - its surface never freezes.

The reservoir occupies more than 6 thousand square meters. km. A tourist zone is located along it: hotels, boarding houses, guest houses. The southern shore is less built up, but more picturesque - silence, mountain air, snow-capped peaks, hot springs nearby ... The lake is so transparent that you can see the bottom. The coast resembles a seaside resort - there is something for everyone. You can bask on the beach, go fishing or go on an excursion to the mountains.

Lake Tianchi is also located in the Tien Shan mountains - a hundred kilometers from Urumqi (China). The locals called it the "Pearl of the Heavenly Mountain". The lake is fed by melt water, because it is crystal clear. The most spectacular mountain in the vicinity is Bogdafeng Peak, whose height exceeds 6 thousand meters. The best time to visit is from May to September.

Hiking and bike tours

Hiking in the Tien Shan mountains often includes a tour of Issyk-Kul. Several days of passes surrounded by peaks of five thousand meters, emerald mountain reservoirs, acquaintance with the most famous local attractions - all this includes a hiking route. Travelers admire the local blue spruce and juniper thickets, an abundance of flowers and waterfalls, bathe in hot springs and relax on the coast of a healing lake. Sometimes the routes involve acquaintance with the simple life of nomadic shepherds.

Tourists are especially interested in the Northern Tien Shan and the Kyrgyz Range. Both areas have easy access. They are not crowded, untouched by civilization. You can make simple hikes or pick up difficult routes. The best time to travel is July-August. Experienced tourists are advised to be careful about trusting information that is 20 years old or more. Due to the melting of glaciers, some routes have become easier, others have become more difficult and dangerous to overcome.

Residents of Russia do not need foreign passports to travel to Kazakhstan or Kyrgyzstan. Upon arrival, you must register. The attitude towards tourists is hospitable, and there are no language problems. The transport accessibility of the mountains is different. The easiest way to get to those that are near Alma-Ata: Western Dzhungaria and Zailiysky Alatau. There is also excellent access to the mountains located near Tashkent and Bishkek. You can also get to the picturesque places that are located near Lake Issyk-Kul. The remaining regions of the Kyrgyz and Chinese Tien Shan are inaccessible.

Cycling tours are also carried out in the Tien Shan mountains. There are opportunities for cycling, cross-country, and road pedaling. The sultry Asian summer, sands and impassability will test the strength of the traveler. Landscapes change: semi-deserts, deserts, mountain ranges. After the bike tour, you can stop at Issyk-Kul Lake and visit the cities of the famous Silk Road along the way.

mountain dwellers

Tien Shan attracts not only adventure seekers. For some people, the slopes of the mountains are their home. At the end of spring, local nomadic shepherds set up the first yurts. Everything is thought out in such mini-houses: kitchen, bedroom, dining room, living room. Yurts are made of felt. Inside is comfortable even during frosts. Instead of beds, there are thick mattresses laid on the floor. Semyonov also observed the economy and life of the Kazakhs and Kirghiz in the vicinity of the Tien Shan. In personal reports, the scientist described visits to Kyrgyz villages, individual meetings with local residents during the expedition.

Before the revolution, the yurt was considered by the Kirghiz to be the main type of dwelling. Today, the design has not lost its significance, since much attention is still paid to animal husbandry. It is placed near ordinary houses. In the heat, the family rests there, meets guests.