Novaya Zemlya Bay Russian harbor. Russian harbor. Famous and unknown
Russian Harbor and some alpine skiing.
One of the possible exotic places for skiing in the summer (except for sand skiing in Dzerzhinsk, of course :-) is the glaciers of Novaya Zemlya and Franz Josef Land. In September 1997, I managed to visit one of them and after that the north, like Cheget once upon a time, sank into my soul forever. But of course it’s easier with Cheget, but getting to Novaya Zemlya is quite problematic. Although in calm weather and with almost non-disappearing sun, the Barents Sea looks magical.
Russian Harbor, the largest bay of Novaya Zemlya, is located on Severny Island at latitude 76N. They say that during the military trial, German submarines came in to refuel. After the war, it was already chosen by our military and polar explorers. The entire shore is littered with building materials and remains of construction equipment. Numerous local roads are marked with empty diesel fuel barrels. But, they say, this is already a necessity. Otherwise, in winter you can lose your way.
The photo shows houses where people still lived until 1995. And I think that in best years stagnation, about 100 people spent the winter here. The houses are in good condition and, if desired, you can spend the winter in them. The pantries have reserves of melted fat in jars and some cereals. Delicacies and alcohol are not available.
The Shokalsky Glacier slides down from the Central Ridge of Novaya Zemlya in a long tongue and breaks off into the Russian Harbor.
You can ride on the glacier, although of course it’s shallow. But if you go 8-10 km deep into the island, then the slope increases, I think, to 15-20 degrees. But I moved no more than 2 km. (Moving around Novaya Zemlya, and especially along the glacier, is only allowed in pairs, because of polar bears, which, they say, have become too numerous. But we didn’t see them.)
Along the edge of the glacier stretches a wide strip of flat ice, 
which turns into impassable cracks 
and sugar loaves.
It’s very pleasant to accelerate in a straight line and roll along the edge of the beginning faults. They are usually flattened and throw you into the air like trampolines. The main thing is to stop at the edge of the glacier...
A strong wind blows almost constantly from the glacier, which sprinkles the ice with fine brown dust from the surrounding mountains. The grains of sand heat up in the summer sun and fall 2-3 cm under the ice. This is why ice is gray or brown in color. The surface becomes spongy and provides excellent gliding.
Finishing your skis is a pleasure.
In general, given the gentle slope, - perfect place for training beginners. Exactly, no snow groomers are needed, the wind has smoothed everything out over many hundreds of years. At some point, the wind died down and then everything was filled with an unprecedented silence that pressed on the ears. Unforgettable.
The surrounding landscape can only be described in one word - desert. I personally don’t understand what the deer whose traces we found there feed on. The surface of the earth is loam mixed with small stones. I managed to see a few specks of lichens, 1 cm high. And that’s it! It is also unclear how the deer get across this glacier. Apparently, if you move deeper into the island, there are smooth areas. Sailing on the sea is difficult. The water is about 0 degrees.
The surrounding bays are inhabited by waterfowl. But their meat smells strongly of fish. A small river with cold water flows out from under the glacier, which is very good for diluting alcohol :-) My head doesn’t hurt at all in the morning. Yes, information for the "greens": NO RADIATION. I don’t know why, but no. Experienced men with whom I hung out there say that in the center of the island there are sometimes closed lakes with increased radiation. But only in the testing area. And this is much further south. Apparently nature has learned to fight its main enemy - man.
And besides Novaya Zemlya, we also sailed to Franz Josef Land (80 N)
But, unfortunately, I didn’t ride or disembark there. It's a pity... Theoretically, the skiing there is better. There are small glaciers and a lot of snow, which periodically falls and melts in the summer.
In general, the north is as stunning as the mountains. If it were possible to spend the winter on Cheget and wander around Novaya Zemlya in the summer, then it would probably be happiness. But, unfortunately, it doesn't work...
It remains to add that all this was organized with the help MACE (Maritime Integrated Arctic Expedition) and its leader Boyarsky Peter Vladimirovich. And, besides skiing, there was also work with the permanent employees of this organization, excellent, cool guys!
The voyage diaries are kept daily by Natalya Avdonina, Ph.D. Sc., Associate Professor of the Department of Journalism, Advertising and Public Relations of NArFU named after M.V. Lomonosov.
Information about the location of the vessel "Professor Molchanov" can be obtained at.
In the high-latitude Arctic, all terrestrial flora and fauna are distributed unevenly. Most of the space we moved through was lifeless. Any flower, any bird is perceived as an exception rather than a rule.
Ninth day of the expedition. There has been no Internet since the evening of Saturday, July 14th. We live outside of time and space. Yesterday, unnoticed by everyone, turned into today. We approached Russian Harbor Bay at 21.35.
- “Alter Ego.” "Professor Molchanov." Tell us the location and number of people. What are your problems?
- “Professor Molchanov.” 10 people on board. Everything is fine. Let's go to you.
On line 16, our ship received a distress signal from the yacht “Alter Ego”. When she approached “Professor Molchanov,” our expedition group was already heading towards Lake Retovskoye. They went to Russian Harbor to wait out the bad weather. The clock says two in the morning.
We rode to land in six boats. The crew of “nerds,” as we were called on the bridge, were the last to depart. On the first one, rangers and geologists left to check the station for the presence of polar bears that could be waiting for us in the destroyed buildings.
Three field teams worked onshore to collect geological and biological samples and marine debris. A group led by Anna Vesman selected garbage within a perimeter of one hundred meters from the shore, in order to later sort it and identify the main sources of pollution. Fishing nets, small household items - all this is washed up by the wave and remains lying on the abandoned shores of the Russian Harbor, awaiting the next expedition.
We were given the go-ahead to prepare for disembarkation at about one in the morning, when almost all the other groups returned to the ship. The Zodiac shook every now and then as we descended into the boat. The coastal water of the Barents Sea has an incredible aquamarine hue due to low salinity.
We set foot on the rocky soil of Russian Harbor, which, according to observations in the 1970s, was an Arctic desert. Now this land is more like tundra, as Dmitry Nikitin, a fourth-year graduate student at the Faculty of Soil Science at Moscow State University named after M.V. Lomonosov, said.
We made our first stop near a shallow river. Andrei Przhiboro, a senior researcher at the Zoological Institute of the Russian Academy of Sciences, set up insect traps and began walking around with a net, squatting down every five minutes to remove mosquitoes from it. Andrei Aleksandrovich explained that he does not count the number of samples collected, but the points where these samples were taken. At the same time, he collects coastal and bottom substrates, from which he then extracts insects or other invertebrates, including larvae, and grows them in laboratory conditions in the collected soil. Andrei Aleksandrovich will wash each such bucket for several hours and lower it into salt water so that the insects float up.
“It’s interesting to conduct research on adaptation, to see how insects, for example, withstand such cold conditions and what they eat. In the future, we need to ask questions: who lives, where and how long. Now I am raising these questions, but developments are needed on specific points in order to draw serious conclusions,” said Andrei Przhiboro.
Dmitry Nikitin began the first soil excavations. He looked for areas of the landscape with characteristic relief and vegetation. “The soil is a mirror of the landscape, which reflects all the biological and geological processes that have occurred over the past several hundred and tens of thousands of years,” said Dmitry.
Dima dug up the ground in four different places, described the surrounding landscape, plant community and soil horizons. From each point he took samples for chemical, physical and microbiological analyses. The most important thing is the last one, testing for microbes. More or less comprehensive studies of Novaya Zemlya were carried out in the 1970s, but since that time the climate has changed significantly, which necessarily affected flora, microbes and soil composition. “At least it should have been,” Dmitry added. And it is microbes that quickly respond to changes environment. It takes hundreds of years for tropical forests to turn into desert or savanna, but the microbial community can change in a matter of months. Microbes are environmental bioindicators that can be used to determine the level of soil contamination, for example, with heavy metals.
“We will conduct a comprehensive study and try to connect several indicators with vegetation and relief elements, thus obtaining a global picture of the terrestrial ecosystems of at least a small piece of Novaya Zemlya,” Dmitry said.
We walked a few more kilometers and stopped on a hill. While most of them were getting sandwiches, Dima Nikitin began to dig up soil horizons, and Sergei Kholod, Doctor of Biological Sciences and head of the Laboratory of Geography and Cartography of Vegetation at the Botanical Institute named after V. L. Komarov, examined the plants. The vegetation in Russian Harbor is richer in species composition, and an interesting find for Sergei Serafimovich was dryad, or partridge grass, as it is popularly called. This grass forms carpets on the western and southwestern slopes. Several plants that Sergei Kholod found are absent from Cape Zhelaniya: otstrolozhechnik and mytnik. Some others still need to be studied and precisely defined. “A small route of three hours cannot be called a complete survey of the territory; it is only an exploratory preliminary excursion,” said Sergei Serafimovich, “which in general terms made it possible to outline points for future descriptions.” Sergei Kholod plans to return to Russian Harbor later to carry out long-term systematic work.
The study of vegetation is interesting because it allows us to identify the dependence of vegetation on environmental factors - plants are sensitive to changes in the chemical composition of soils. Sergei Serafimovich gave the example of stemless gum, which forms cushions necessary for life in dry areas. In Russian Harbor, the researcher noticed the death of pillows, which may be a sign of unfavorable conditions, but what conditions these are is a question for further scientific research. Of course, it is impossible to accurately say about climate change in a few decades; it takes a hundred years or more. For example, it can be assumed that the influence of the sea is increasing, that is, more salts are introduced, and plants cannot adapt to the fact that the soil becomes salty. As a result, the plant dies.
From time to time we found deer bones. 14-15 years ago, on almost all the islands of the Russian Arctic, warming occurred in the fall, and black ice formed, due to which the reindeer could not break through the ice crust and died of starvation. This is also an anomaly that has yet to be studied.
A group led by Nikolai Matushkin, senior researcher at the Laboratory of Geodynamics and Paleomagnetism of the Central and Eastern Arctic, Associate Professor of the Department of General and Regional Geology of Novosibirsk state university, collected 23 core samples. Not all layers are suitable for drilling, only monolithic ones. In each layer, researchers need to drill 10-12 cores. It takes from one to two hours to reach one point. As Nikolay said, he and one colleague had a record - they accelerated to 40 minutes, but the rocks for this should be easy to drill. Rock cores contain magnetic minerals; geologists are only interested in iron and titanium oxides. Particles of these minerals, settling, are oriented towards the cardinal points. The place where Vasily Bragin, a researcher at NSU, drilled is the same sea that we are walking through now, only several hundred million years ago, when an ancient magnetic field existed on earth. Since then, a piece of continental crust has traveled, tilted, and now the direction laid down hundreds of millions of years ago does not correspond to the modern magnetic field. If geologists manage to build a model of continental movement, this will be another argument in the geopolitical discussion about how the shelf works. “The results that we have been receiving since 2003 are already being used by a special UN commission to substantiate Russia’s position on shelf expansion. From a scientific point of view, this is interesting, because it is possible to identify blocks of the earth’s crust that were considered part of one continent, but we can prove that this is a separate small continent,” Nikolai said.
Andrei Przhiboro said that the first expedition to Russian Harbor to study insects was organized in 1837 by Karl von Behr. Almost every subsequent expedition here ended in death. For me, Russian Harbor will remain an unsociable, cold-blooded, merciless place that you need to visit at least once in your life in order to forget about the omnipotence of man.
Reference
The NArFU project “Arctic Floating University” is an innovative project that combines science and education. The NArFU expedition project is aimed at obtaining new knowledge about the state and changes in the Arctic environment in order to implement recommendations for ensuring the sustainable development of the region and preserving its ecosystem in the context of global climate change. The organizer of the project is Northern Federal University named after M.V. Lomonosov together with the Federal State Budgetary Institution Northern Administration for Hydrometeorology and Environmental Monitoring. The project consists of conducting marine integrated scientific and educational expeditions in the Arctic region, with the participation of leading researchers and students of Northern (Archive) Federal University and with the involvement of specialists from all over the world.
The innovation of the Arctic Floating University project lies in the integration of educational and research processes. During expeditions, students and graduate students of NArFU are intensively immersed in the scientific and educational process, studying fundamental natural science and humanities disciplines, acquiring the skills and abilities to conduct practical work and laboratory research based on modern methods of analyzing statistical, mathematical, cartographic, GIS information, as well as field scientific research in expeditionary conditions.
Expeditions are carried out on the research vessel “Professor Molchanov”, owned by the Federal State Budgetary Institution “Northern UGMS”. The vessel complies with international environmental and safety standards, allowing it to perform long, expeditionary voyages in Arctic conditions.
In the evening we will approach Russian Harbor, from where we will move to Alexandra Land, making a cut. There will be 18 points in total - this is more than a day’s work. In Arkhangelsk today it’s +28. As Alexander Saburov said: of course, it was worth leaving. But it’s not bad here either: it’s quiet, the sea is a beautiful gray-lead hue, New Earth on the starboard side, sometimes slightly hidden by fog, sometimes shadowing the horizon. Maybe in the waters of the FFI we will meet Sea Spirit - a tourist ship that sails on the route Spitsbergen - FFI. Today it is near Alexandra Land. I just don’t remember whether it is going forward or back to Spitsbergen.
Unicorn by Ingo
From 4 pm today, many people come to the bridge in the hope of seeing a sea unicorn. It's all Ingo Weiss's fault. He filmed something on the TV. And when he began to examine this something, it turned out that it was a narwhal sticking its horn out of the water. It’s modest, but you can immediately see that it’s a narwhal. We came across him, or rather Ingo, at 76 degrees north latitude off the coast of Novaya Zemlya. This is not a typical narwhal hangout. And, as far as I remember, no one has mentioned such facts in recent years. The most typical meeting place for sea unicorns in the Russian Arctic is the Cambridge Strait off the coast of Franz Josef Land. Although, in principle, the narwhal’s habitat is the entire high Arctic. Most of the population - about 70% - lives in the waters of the Canadian archipelago.
Narwhal
Rare marine mammal, which is also called the sea unicorn. The body length of an adult narwhal is up to 4.5 m. Main feature The narwhal is a tusk or horn that grows up to 2-3 meters, twisting in a spiral. It's actually the top tooth, usually the left one. The tusk is characteristic only of males.
True, as I came across in the literature, theoretically a horn can grow in a female if she has hormonal disorders. And in 1 case out of 500 (this is about males), both teeth grow and the result is a bicorn. Such skulls are in museums.
But why do unicorns always appear when I fall asleep?..
From the life of ice
Novaya Zemlya and Franz Josef Land, where we are going, are some of the iciest areas in the world, and in Russia, it seems, the iciest. As Alexandra Urazgildeeva said today, glaciers cover 0.5% of the earth's surface, and the Antarctic ice sheet covers 8.3%. Frozen water can be in the form of snow, river and lake ice, sea ice, ice sheets, glaciers and ice caps and permafrost.
They say that the Arctic is warming, and this can be seen in the sea ice in the Arctic Ocean. Recently, its number has been steadily declining. The record was set in 2012. Nothing like this happens in the southern hemisphere. Antarctica exists as if by itself. Although the ice sheet of the southern continent seems to be shrinking, it is shrinking in the western part, while in the eastern part, on the contrary, it is growing.
Anna Vesman told how ice forms and melts. The process is long, having several stages, which have different and interesting names: ice needles, lard, snowflake, sludge. Then comes dark nilas and light nilas. Nilas is the stage of ice formation when it still contains a lot of salt and remains plastic. Young ice is first gray, then gray-white. If you're lucky, he will mature and become first old, then many years old. In the Arctic, ice older than 4 years is concentrated in the area of the Canadian Archipelago.
And, in order of enumeration: there is pancake ice - very beautiful round pieces of ice. In English it's pancake ice. Anna said that once at a conference the term was translated as “pancakes.” There is also moored ice and fast ice - this is important for us. If there is fast ice near the island, the landing will not take place.
I won’t write about the stages of sea ice melting: it’s even more complicated than its formation.
Soil respiration
During the voyage, the soil group will study not just soils, but, as Sergei Goryachkin, head of the department of geography and soil evolution at the Institute of Geography of the Russian Academy of Sciences, said, soil respiration. For the first time, the amount of carbon dioxide and methane released from the soil surface will be measured on Novaya Zemlya and the islands of the Polar Region.
Plant roots and microorganisms breathe in the soil. And, like us, they release CO2 into the atmosphere.
Carbon dioxide is a greenhouse gas. Another such gas is methane, CH4. It releases where there is waterlogging.
Each measurement is accompanied by a temperature and humidity measurement. For each region we try to build our own model of how much CO2 and methane is released per year.
Theoretically, if more greenhouse gases are released, a greenhouse effect occurs. But an increase in their number leads to an increase in phytomass, which absorbs CO2. Therefore, the final effects should no longer be calculated by soil scientists or geographers, but by other specialists. In general, the topic of climate change is multidisciplinary. Everyone studies something different. But creating a complete picture and saying what awaits us at least in the foreseeable future is the most difficult thing.
The soil team will also take soil samples. It would seem that just dig it up and that’s it. But it's not that simple. These soils are accustomed to low temperatures, and if they are brought, for example, to “Molchanov”, then the result of their research will be distorted.
That's why we take samples and immediately put them in the freezer. In addition, we have such thermally insulating boxes, and we hope that we will deliver them to the refrigerator in the laboratory,” said Sergei Goryachkin.
Once, at the Omega base of the Russian Arctic National Park, they tried to grow a lemon. They collected soil near the cordon and mixed it with all sorts of organic residues and algae to create some semblance of the soil we are used to. Lemon, by the way, has grown up, but I don’t know his further fate. I asked Sergei Viktorovich whether there are any soils in the FFI in principle. The question is, of course, an amateurish one. Sergei Viktorovich very patiently explained to me that there are soils wherever there is life.
Where there is life, there is an interaction between the organism and the mineral. This is practically the beginning of the soil. Of course, these are not dachas near Moscow, you don’t need to plant potatoes there, but in order to support life, this is quite enough.
Chelyuskinites from Eric
Erik Hösli continued his excursion into the history of Russia's exploration of the Arctic. Today we looked at the Soviet period: SP-1, the first polar station in the Polar Region in 1929. By the way, it was organized very urgently: the expedition was assembled in record time. short term, because at that time a Norwegian expedition was heading to FJL. The Soviets were more fortunate with the ice conditions.
An interesting point: how the development of the Arctic was presented linguistically in the 1930s. A lot of military vocabulary was used: conquest of the Arctic, an army of polar explorers, storming the Arctic, Arctic front, fighting the elements... Well, that’s how we do it. The struggle for the harvest, the struggle with the harvest, life is a struggle, otherwise it’s not interesting. Indeed, it turned out to be a struggle and conquest. It was all too complicated. And how many heads fell off then.
Finally, Eric showed the Chinese Army's official world map from 2017, with the Northern Sea Route and Northwest Passage marked on it. The Chinese are very interested in the Arctic...
Photoshoot
On "Molchanov" there will be the first wall newspaper from APU-2017. The idea from Eric Hösli is to take photographs of all the participants and hang up portraits with names and a brief... how to call it... characteristics... In general, who is doing what on the flight. It was necessary to conduct the photo shoot in the morning, while it was cloudy. I think along the way I’ll re-photograph everyone later for the website with the sea in the background. Today it was important to do it quickly so that no one would squint and the wind would not blow their hair.
Russian Harbor and Shokalsky Glacier
Around 7 pm we approached Russian Harbor Bay, one of the largest on Novaya Zemlya. The Norwegians called it that because there were many Russian (Pomeranian) crosses on the shore. It was possible to hide from the storm in the bay. Next I will use my own blank, which I once made for an exhibition dedicated to Novaya Zemlya.
Russian Harbor
The bay is located on the western – Barents Sea – side North Island Novaya Zemlya between the Litke and Schmidt peninsulas. The bay is open to the north and extends 10 km deep into the North Island. Its space, together with the Goryakov and Savich peninsulas, is divided into a number of separate water areas: Volodkin and Voronin bays (in the east), Otkupshchikov Bay (in the west). The distance between the entrance capes of Makarov (in the west) and Utesheniya (in the east) is 8 km.
The Russian Harbor Bay was approximately mapped in 1871 by the Norwegian industrialist Friedrich Mack. The name was given by the Norwegians in 1869-71. in honor of Russian navigators who visited these remote places long before the Europeans, the undoubted proof of which is the ancient Pomeranian crosses later found by researchers of the Russian Harbor. On the Goryakova Peninsula and Bogaty Island in the 30s of the twentieth century. the crosses were still preserved.
In 1932, the polar station "Russkaya Gavan" was opened. It was located at the base of the Goryakova Peninsula, on the second sea terrace 15 m high. The houses stand on the flat surface of the isthmus between Voronin Bay in the east and Otkupshchikov Bay in the west. To both bays, the terrace on which the station buildings stand has a slope of 5–7°.
Currently, four buildings remain on the territory of the former polar station: the main building from the 1930s. with two laboratories (meteorological and hydrological) and a radio station; residential building from the 1950s; bathhouse and outbuilding. It was at the polar station "Russkaya Gavan" that the famous film "Seven Braves" about the real events of 1932–1933 was shot.
In 1932, a camp was also founded in Russian Harbor. It was located 1 km north of the polar station, in the area of the modern beach on the Goryakova Peninsula, at an altitude of 1.5 m, at a distance of 3–4 m from the modern shore. In 1957–1959 its premises were used as a base for the Novaya Zemlya glaciological expedition of the Institute of Geography of the USSR Academy of Sciences, which worked under the program of the International Geophysical Year. All that remains of the camp's buildings is the former warehouse and the salvage pit. The remaining buildings were dismantled or burned down.
From the south, the Shokalsky glacier descends into Otkupshchikov Bay, the frontal cliff of which is 5 km long. The height of the glacier wall is about 30 m. The glacier produces, that is, slides into the sea by about 150 meters per year.
Of course, this Shokalsky glacier is beautiful. No matter how much I convinced myself that I had a million photographs of him from all sides, I started taking more photographs from the porthole. Then look for a different hat, not the one I wore here last year. Found it. And at that moment the phone went dead! But you can’t help but take a photo with your phone. No selfie - that means you didn't attend.
Konstantin Sergeevich began to chase those without hats. The rules are strict: those who do not take care of their health are deprived of landings. There were precedents.
Sp Rùskaja Gãvanės įlanka Ap Bay Russian Harbor/Zaliv Russkaya Gavan’ L Barenco j., RF prie N. Žemės … Pasaulio vietovardžiai. Internetinė duomenų bazė
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