Spinning equipment - how to properly wind the fishing line and use the reel. How to set up a reel - important settings for a spinning reel How to install line on a spinning reel

The ignition of a car is a set of devices and devices that ignite the combustible mixture in the cylinders in accordance with the operating modes of the engine. I will tell you what this coil is, how important its correct operation is for the ignition system. Consider what the ignition coil connection diagram looks like, and in fact, what it consists of.

The ignition coil is a transformer whose work is aimed at increasing direct current. Its main task is to generate high-voltage current, without which it is impossible to ignite the fuel mixture. The current from the battery is supplied to the primary winding. It consists of a hundred or more turns of copper wire, which is insulated with a special substance. Low-voltage voltage (twelve volts) is applied to the edges. The edges are brought to the contacts on its cover. On the secondary, the number of turns is much larger (up to thirty thousand) and the wire is much thinner. A high voltage is created on the secondary (from twenty-five to thirty thousand volts) due to the thickness and number of turns.

It is connected as follows: the contact of the secondary circuit is connected to the negative contact of the primary, and the second contact of the winding is connected to the neutral terminal on the cover, it is this wire that is the high voltage transmitter. A high-voltage wire is connected to this terminal, the other end of which is connected to the neutral terminal on the cover. To create a large magnetic field strength, an iron core is located between the windings. The secondary winding is located inside the primary.

Structurally, the ignition coil consists of the following elements:

Insulator;
Frame;
Insulating paper;
Winding (primary and secondary);
Insulating material between the windings;
Primary output terminal;
Screw contact;
The terminal is central;
Lid;
Output terminal on primary and secondary windings;
Spring of the central terminal;
Primary winding frame;
External insulation on the primary winding;
Mounting bracket;
External magnetic circuit and core.

So, briefly about the principle of work.

A high voltage current appears on the secondary winding, and at this moment a low current flows on the primary. Thus, a magnetic field arises, as a result of which a high voltage current pulse appears on the secondary winding. At the moment when it is necessary to create a spark, the contacts of the ignition interrupter open, and at this moment the circuit opens on the primary winding. A high-voltage current enters the central contact of the cover and rushes to the contact, near which the slider is located.

The connection diagram is quite simple for a specialist, but it is easy for a beginner to get confused in it.

When connecting the coil to the car's ignition system, in principle, you should not have any difficulties if, during the preliminary dismantling, you marked or remembered which wires are connected where. If you have not done this, then I will tell you how to do it. The connection is made as follows: connect the brown wire to the positive terminal. Usually, the positive terminal is marked with a "+", but if you do not see a sign, then you need to find it yourself.
To do this, you can use an indicator screwdriver. I think you know how to use it. It is important that before connecting, clean all contacts and check the wires for serviceability. A black wire is connected to the second terminal (terminal "K"). This wire is connected to the voltage distributor (distributor).

The scheme of a bunch of several elements is as follows. One of the ends of the coil is connected to the on-board network. The second end is connected to the next, and thus each one is connected to the last. The remaining free contact of the last coil must be connected to the distributor. And a common point is connected to the voltage switch. After all the mounting bolts and nuts are well tightened, the replacement can be considered completed.

A few important tips before replacing and connecting. In the case when you have determined for yourself that it is the coil that is the problem of the ignition malfunction, it is better to immediately purchase a new one and connect it (the diagram is indicated above). So you will definitely be sure that now there are no problems with it, since it is completely new.

If you find any defects on the surface, it is better to replace it immediately. Otherwise, it will work for some more time and you will have to return to this topic again. It is better to play it safe in advance so as not to stop somewhere on the road. After all, the ignition of a car requires unforgiving mistakes and negligence.

When repairing a car, especially when it comes to the ignition system, you must be extremely careful in your actions. Since you can collide with high-voltage wires. Therefore, when carrying out a replacement or repair, you must follow the safety rules.

Video “Ignition coil connection diagram”

The recording shows how you can connect the coil yourself.

How to attach the reel Some of today's rod tackle involves the use of a rod-reel pair. The practicality of managing all gear, and, consequently, the success of fishing itself, depends on how stably and thoroughly these elements are connected. In this topic, we will talk about how to fix the reel on the rod so that it holds securely.

More often on rods of various types, screw reel seats can be seen. Their mechanism is simple and quite reliable, but at the same time they differ in the location of the running nut, which presses the profile ring, which holds the coil foot on one side.

Its “lower” location is recognized as classic, when the nut is located on the tube of the reel seat closer to the butt of the rod. Most of the rods of American and European manufacturers, which are designed for spinning, feeder and match gear with a spinning reel, have this particular reel seat design.

Japanese rod manufacturers often prefer the original bright design and put on the same rods more ergonomic reel seats that take into account the anatomy of the human hand. In these designs, the running nut is placed in front. The principle of fastening the reel in both designs is the same, but when used with a rod paired with a reel, the “classic” is somewhat inferior in terms of convenience to “ergonomics”. This is especially true for rods that are constantly held in the hand during fishing: spinning rods, partly match rods, and somewhat less often feeder rods, which are even more often on stands, just like carp rods.

With the right grip of the rod by hand, the stand of the inertialess reel passes between the index and middle fingers (sometimes in front of the index). Therefore, almost the entire “classic” reel seat lies in the palm of your hand, and its ribbed nut either rests on the edge of the palm or is covered by the little finger.

This does not cause any particular inconvenience - millions of anglers quickly get used to such a grip. But with all the manipulations with the rod - casting, hooking, and especially when guiding the bait and playing the fish - the running nut inevitably weakens a little and the reel begins to "walk" on the seat.

By itself, this "sin" is not too great, but the constant tightening of the running nut is unnerving, distracting from the fishing process, and in some cases can lead to failure of the reel seat. Designs with a front nut, which is often set in a noble cork or practical neoprene, are less subject to arbitrary unscrewing, since during the operation of the rod the palm and fingers of the hand holding it do not touch this part.

But even in them, with significant backlashes on the threads of plastic (as a rule) parts, the coil fastening sometimes loosens. Excessively strong tightening of the nut in both designs of the reel seat not only does not help, but threatens:

Thread breakage on parts;
jamming of the fixing ring on the foot of the coil;
cracking of the nut frame made of natural cork.
The consequence of this is the cessation of fishing and the subsequent difficult repair of the ENTIRE rod. All this can be prevented or minimized by using the little tricks below.

1. It is advisable to wrap the running nut of the “classic” layout after installing the coil with a tape of medical adhesive plaster 18 mm wide. By grabbing the nut with a part of the thread on the reel seat tube with a plaster, you will immediately free yourself from both its self-loosening and scuffs in the palm of your hand. It is especially convenient to make such a winding if the reel remains on the rod for a long time, for example, when fishing on vacation. Unlike PVC electrical tape, the adhesive from the patch is simply removed with ordinary vodka.

2. Often, too much play is made by the self-loosening factor between the lead nut and the reel seat tube. This can be eliminated if a narrow thin tape is screwed directly onto the thread of the tube in one layer. The winding must be laid with force so that the threads remain embossed, and only in the place where the nut will be after the coil is installed in place.

3. The main reason for the arbitrary unscrewing of the nut of a screw reel seat of any type is the absence of an elastic element in the system. This can be easily remedied by putting appropriately sized pieces of PVC cambric or (better) heat shrink tubing on the ends of the coil foot. The easiest way to squeeze it in the shape of a paw is by dipping it in boiling water. After such an operation, the coil is very tightly in place, and its branded very beautiful coating will not be scratched even by all-metal clamping rings.

4. Sometimes the fly reel during fishing begins to hang out in the reel seat, especially if its foot is adjacent not to a rigid tube, but to a fragile insert made of natural cork. This is fraught with scuffs on the cork and squeezing its surface, which greatly weakens the fastening of the reel and spoils the expensive rod. And here the band-aid tape will help out. Stick it directly on the cork under the foot of the coil - the fastening will be much better, and the cork insert will retain its original appearance longer. The same help can be given to spinning rods of the “light” class, which usually have the same cork insert in the reel seat.

5. If the coil is wedged between the mounting rings, and the nut does not turn away, you should not apply excessive force, all the more so to grab fragile plastic of various kinds with passion with improvised "grabbers" - pliers, pliers, etc.

Just drop a little clean kerosene (in the field - vodka) into the thread and onto the foot of the coil and after 3–5 minutes, grabbing the nut tightly with a hand in a rubber glove, unscrew it with not very much effort. After that, wipe all the parts with a clean rag and put the rod and .

6. As a preventive measure against jamming of the reel, always after fishing, remove from its foot and from the reel seat (especially carefully - from the thread) blockages that inevitably form during fishing. Fish slime, bait particles and baits magically attract sand, which is able to abrade the threads on the plastic and metal parts of the reel seat in less than one season. And changing it is quite troublesome and expensive. Sincerely yours

2 Inertialess reels, designations, characteristics, device An ideal option for fishing reels for fishing rods and spinning rods are inertialess reels. With their help, you can catch any fish in a wide variety of places. Such reels are the most common among fishing enthusiasts and among professionals. Learn how to properly mount a Texas rig for spinning fishing. How to spell: inertialess or inertialess? The Russian language is one of the most difficult languages, as a result, errors like the question in the title occur very often. Let's turn to the rules of the Russian language: After prefixes ending in a consonant, instead of “and”, “y” is written in accordance with the pronunciation, for example: play - play along, play out, play; search - find, find, induction - non-induction. In this rule, as in the whole language, there are still many notes and additions, but in our case they are not relevant, i.e. correct spelling: spinning reel The device of the inertialess reel and the principle of operation Fishing reels come with a spool: open; semi-closed; closed. These names imply whether the spool is visible on them or not, i.e. in the version with a closed and semi-closed spool, there is a protective cap in the design, which either completely covers the spool or partially. Coils of semi-closed and closed type have significant drawbacks and are almost never used at present. With an open spool, the reel device looks like this: The body in which the transmission mechanism is located. Spool for winding line. Liner with roller. Brake (friction). Handle. The principle of operation - during casting, the fishing line passes through the side cheek of a fixed spool, to prevent the discharge of excess fishing line. The line is wound onto the spool with the help of a special line stacker. At the moment of casting, it is retracted to the side, no matter what prevents the free discharge of the fishing line. By turning the handle of the line stacker, the line falls on the roller present there, with the help of which the line is wound onto the spool. The spool can be attached in 2 ways: with the end button on the lock or rigidly. The latter option is preferable, because allows you to change spools. For tasks requiring the maximum load on the fishing line when pulling the fish, a brake is used, which can have front or rear adjustment. It can be a special lamb on the spool or a handle (used more often and works better). Switches of various types (flag, sliding) are used to operate the brake system. Easy-to-use slide switches. They are located at the bottom or back of the coil body. The transmission mechanism is located in the housing. To ensure reciprocating motion when winding the spool, and at the same time increases the speed of rotation of the line stacker. Any coil is characterized by such indicators: gear ratio; the number of bearings; spool type; spool capacity; overall dimensions; weight. There are additional indicators that are paid attention to - the load on the clutch in kg and how many cm of fishing line is wound in one turn of the handle. All these indicators are more often guided by lovers of fishing. Designations on the reel The following inscriptions can be applied to import-made inertialess reels: Gear ratio - denotes the gear ratio, which indicates the ratio of the handle rotation to the line stacker rotation and the larger it is, the greater the winding speed; Match Spool, Long Cast - these inscriptions indicate that you can make a long cast; Ball bearing - this determines the number of bearings; ATS, or Anti-Twis - the presence of an anti-twist (anti-twisting) system that reduces the twisting of the fishing line; Fightin' Drag - the presence of a two-stage friction brake adjustment; Continuous anti-reverse - the presence of a special system, which is necessary so that there is no strong blow to the gears; Avto Cast, or Speed Cast - the presence of a semi-automatic casting system; AVS, dyna balance - the coil is equipped with an anti-vibration system; Ergonomic design - indicates that an ergonomic design has been applied. It is mandatory to indicate the ratio of the diameter of the fishing line and its quantity (capacity of the spool). Popular manufacturers and models of inertialess coils Domestic and foreign manufacturers produce inertialess coils using different technologies and have a wide range of models. Among them, coils of manufacturers from Japan, China and Europe are famous for their special popularity. Inertialess reels of the Japanese company Daiwa, which is the world's leading manufacturer of fishing products, are especially popular among fishing enthusiasts and considered the main of the best. High quality and compliance with high standards - that's what characterizes the company's products. Currently, it produces more than 50 types of spinning reels. The quality of the coils created by this company is determined by: properly selected material; precise balancing; bearing capacity and sufficient rigidity of the kinematic pair. Many anglers believe that the more bearings in a reel, the better it is, but with the advent of a new high-quality anti-friction material that Japanese manufacturers have introduced in the production of their product, this has become less relevant. It is known that from 1 to 15 bearings can be installed in the coils of this company, but even with a minimum number of them, the coil works perfectly. As well as inertialess coils that Daiwa produces are presented from inexpensive models to elite ones. They differ in the following ways: design complexity; the material from which they are made; by the number of elements; production technology. You can buy the products of this company in a fairly wide price range - from 600 rubles to 45,000 rubles and even higher. All models provide: maximum long casts; wiring sensitivity; smooth running during wiring; smooth power drive; lack of beating and hum in the coil; small weight and dimensions; high durability; thoughtful design. Among the cheapest Daiwa spinning reels, the model of the Sweepfire B series (Sweepfire 2500B) has proven itself well, which has a gear ratio of 5.3: 1, 1 bearing, a clutch load with a mass of 4 kg, and exactly 79 cm of fishing line is wound with one turn of the handle , and the spool capacity is 0.5mm/150m and the weight of the tackle is 306g. There is a special balancing system, a folding and reinstallable handle. Such a coil costs 600 rubles. The most expensive model from the Saltiga Z series (Saltiga-Z5000) has a gear ratio of 4.3:1, 15 bearings, a friction load with a mass of 30 kg, and with one turn of the handle exactly 101 cm of fishing line is wound, and the spool capacity is 0.35 mm / 370 m and tackle weight 825 gr. Coils of this series are protected from water, have anti-corrosion protection of all elements. The spool is made of duralumin, has a titanium side, which is covered with cermet. The bearing of the line stacker can withstand a load of up to 80 kg. Used for both light and heavy lures. Such a coil costs 45,000 rubles. The market is full of coils of a very low price range, especially the Chinese manufacturer stands out. As a rule, such a coil serves no more than 2 years and cannot be repaired. Coils at a price of 450 rubles and below should not be taken into account at all, because. this is not serious. The coils of the Chinese manufacturer have an attractive appearance, and are also equipped with some of the most modern systems, but they are made very poorly. They do not live long and often simply crumble after a short operation. But here you can find an acceptable option. Tica products are well known to anglers (models Tica Cambria LZ2050 7+1bb, Tica Caiman CA205, etc.), they are reliable and durable. Coils of this company also gained worldwide fame thanks to many years of cooperation with Daiwa. But the quality of such coils is unstable. You can buy a good copy, or you can run into an obvious hack. Perhaps we can name another Chinese manufacturer that produces good coils at low prices. This is Okuma (models Okuma Citrix 273-VLX, Okuma Tormenta TT-260WLX, etc.). The disadvantages are winding and the inconvenience of switching the backstop (from below, not from behind). The bearings are excellent, the overrunning clutch is modern, the line roller has a large diameter bearing. The products of a European manufacturer are represented by the German company DAM (models FIGHTER PRO MET. 160 FD 1283160, Coil QUICK A-HEAD 100 1095100, etc.) - excellent quality and quality factor. Excellent workmanship, the most modern materials, the price is above average. But they are worth it. Having bought such a coil, you can be sure that it will last a long time without any repair. Another manufacturer of reliable reels is Mitchell, a French-based company specializing in the production of products for fishing. Among them are world-famous spinning coils such as Tuff-Body Spro ZaltArc XS. Solid, have protection against salt water, clutch protection from dirt and water, a cross-shaped line winding mechanism, spools with line clips and a special front drag system with fine tuning. If we add the original design to this, then these coils are rightfully considered the most reliable, despite their price, which corresponds to the quality. It must be remembered that many manufacturers transfer their production to other countries and there such a coil is already produced under the brand name of another manufacturer, which does not always correspond to the quality of the original. Sometimes you can see coils without a logo. Hence the conclusion is to look at what you are buying and focus on buying goods from well-known companies. How to choose a reel First of all, you need to decide on the following conditions: fishing conditions; the weight and size of the bait; line thickness; rod ring size. All these parameters must be coordinated with each other. Also, when choosing an inertialess coil, it is necessary to pay attention to the following: there should be no handle play at all; there should be no transverse play of the spool; the fishing line should be wound smoothly, lie down evenly; the line stacker should not spontaneously snap into place; the coil should not vibrate during rapid rotation; the freewheel switch and clutch must work clearly. Do-it-yourself donka for catfish

How to assemble a spinning rod (donk, feeder, fishing rod)

Now I will talk about the obvious thing ... So, at least somewhat knowledgeable anglers do not need to read further. But, for those who are just about to start fishing and are at the very beginning of their journey, the question may arise: how to assemble a spinning rod or other fishing tackle.

It's not very convenient to talk about such simple things, but I see that this kind of questions periodically arise on the net.

So, to assemble spinning you need:

- rod;

— Coil;

- Fishing line or cord;

- Leash;

- Bait.

The rods can have reel seats of different designs. The bottom line is to unscrew the screw of one design or another. So we can spread the clamps and install the coil. Then we twist it back until it stops, thereby fixing the coil.

We have done the main part of the spinning assembly. Now we will wind the fishing line.

It is necessary to open the bail of the line stacker, stretch the end of the fishing line through all the rings and tie the end to the spool. Then, close the shackle of the line stacker.

Usually, normal spinning reels have 2 spools in a set. We tie the fishing line with one of these knots to the spool. We wind the purchased fishing line or cord on one spool. If the fishing line lies deep and there is still space in the spool, it is worth winding the so-called. backing - thread or old fishing line so that only 2-3 mm remains on the spool from the shoulder to the fishing line.

As a result, we rearrange another spool. We tie the end of the backing to this spool and wind everything to the end.

We tie the leash with one of the knots indicated in the link above. We fasten the bait through the clasp on the leash. Everything is very simple!

Inertialess coils, designations, characteristics, device

The ideal option for fishing reels for fishing rods and spinning rods are spinning reels. With their help, you can catch any fish in a wide variety of places. Such reels are the most common among fishing enthusiasts and among professionals.

Learn how to properly mount a Texas spinning rig.

How to write correctly: inertialess or inertialess?

The Russian language is one of the most difficult languages, as a result, errors like the question in the title occur very often. Let's turn to the rules of the Russian language:

After prefixes ending in a consonant, instead of “and”, “s” is written in accordance with the pronunciation, for example:

play - play along, play, play;
to search - to find, to find
induction - non-induction.

In this rule, as in the whole language, there are still many notes and additions, but in our case they are not relevant, i.e. correct spelling: spinning reel

Inertialess coil device and principle of operation

Fishing reels come with a spool:

open;
semi-closed;
closed.

These names imply whether the spool is visible on them or not, i.e. in the version with a closed and semi-closed spool, there is a protective cap in the design, which either completely covers the spool or partially. Coils of semi-closed and closed type have significant drawbacks and are almost never used at present.

With an open spool, the coil device looks like this:

The housing in which the transmission mechanism is located.
Spool for winding line.
Liner with roller.
Brake (friction).
Handle.

The principle of operation - during casting, the fishing line passes through the side cheek of a fixed spool, to prevent the discharge of excess fishing line. The line is wound onto the spool with the help of a special line stacker. At the moment of casting, it is retracted to the side, no matter what prevents the free discharge of the fishing line. By turning the handle of the line stacker, the line falls on the roller present there, with the help of which the line is wound onto the spool. The spool can be attached in 2 ways: with the end button on the lock or rigidly. The latter option is preferable, because allows you to change spools.

For tasks requiring the maximum load on the fishing line when pulling the fish, a brake is used, which can have front or rear adjustment. It can be a special lamb on the spool or a handle (used more often and works better). Switches of various types (flag, sliding) are used to operate the brake system. Easy-to-use slide switches. They are located at the bottom or back of the coil body.

The transmission mechanism is located in the housing. To ensure reciprocating motion when winding the spool, and at the same time increases the speed of rotation of the line stacker.

Any coil is characterized by such indicators:

gear ratio;
the number of bearings;
spool type;
spool capacity;
overall dimensions;
weight.

There are additional indicators that are paid attention to - the load on the clutch in kg and how many cm of fishing line is wound in one turn of the handle. All these indicators are more often guided by lovers of fishing.

Coil markings

The following inscriptions can be applied to import-made inertialess coils:

Gear ratio - denotes the gear ratio, which indicates the ratio of the turn of the handle to the turns of the line stacker and the larger it is, the greater the winding speed;
Match Spool, Long Cast - these inscriptions indicate that you can make a long cast;
Ball bearing - this determines the number of bearings;
ATS, or Anti-Twis - the presence of an anti-twist (anti-twisting) system that reduces the twisting of the fishing line;
Fightin' Drag - the presence of a two-stage friction brake adjustment;
Continuous anti-reverse - the presence of a special system, which is necessary so that there is no strong blow to the gears;
Avto Cast, or Speed Cast - the presence of a semi-automatic casting system;
AVS, dyna balance - the coil is equipped with an anti-vibration system;
Ergonomic design - indicates that an ergonomic design has been applied.

It is mandatory to indicate the ratio of the diameter of the fishing line and its quantity (capacity of the spool).

Popular manufacturers and models of spinning reels

Domestic and foreign manufacturers produce inertialess coils using different technologies and have a wide range of models. Among them, coils of manufacturers from Japan, China and Europe are famous for their special popularity.

Inertialess reels of the Japanese company Daiwa, which is the world's leading manufacturer of fishing products, are especially popular among fishing enthusiasts and considered the main of the best. High quality and compliance with high standards - that's what characterizes the company's products. Currently, it produces more than 50 types of spinning reels. The quality of the coils created by this company is determined by:

properly selected material;
precise balancing;
bearing capacity and sufficient rigidity of the kinematic pair.

Many anglers believe that the more bearings in a reel, the better it is, but with the advent of a new high-quality anti-friction material that Japanese manufacturers have introduced in the production of their product, this has become less relevant. It is known that from 1 to 15 bearings can be installed in the coils of this company, but even with a minimum number of them, the coil works perfectly.

As well as inertialess coils that Daiwa produces are presented from inexpensive models to elite ones. They differ in the following ways:

design complexity;
the material from which they are made;
by the number of elements;
production technology.

You can buy the products of this company in a fairly wide price range - from 600 rubles to 45,000 rubles and even higher. All models provide:

maximum distance casts;
wiring sensitivity;
smooth running during wiring;
smooth power drive;
lack of beating and hum in the coil;
small weight and dimensions;
high durability;
thoughtful design.

Among the cheapest Daiwa spinning reels, the model of the Sweepfire B series (Sweepfire 2500B) has proven itself well, which has a gear ratio of 5.3: 1, 1 bearing, a clutch load with a mass of 4 kg, and exactly 79 cm of fishing line is wound with one turn of the handle , and the spool capacity is 0.5mm/150m and the weight of the tackle is 306g. There is a special balancing system, a folding and reinstallable handle. Such a coil costs 600 rubles.

The most expensive model from the Saltiga Z series (Saltiga-Z5000) has a gear ratio of 4.3:1, 15 bearings, a friction load with a mass of 30 kg, and with one turn of the handle exactly 101 cm of fishing line is wound, and the spool capacity is 0.35 mm / 370 m and tackle weight 825 gr. Coils of this series are protected from water, have anti-corrosion protection of all elements. The spool is made of duralumin, has a titanium side, which is covered with cermet. The bearing of the line stacker can withstand a load of up to 80 kg. Used for both light and heavy lures. Such a coil costs 45,000 rubles.

The market is full of coils of a very low price range, especially the Chinese manufacturer stands out. As a rule, such a coil serves no more than 2 years and cannot be repaired. Coils at a price of 450 rubles and below should not be taken into account at all, because. this is not serious.

The coils of the Chinese manufacturer have an attractive appearance, and are also equipped with some of the most modern systems, but they are made very poorly. They do not live long and often simply crumble after a short operation.

But here you can find an acceptable option. Tica products are well known to anglers (models Tica Cambria LZ2050 7+1bb, Tica Caiman CA205, etc.), they are reliable and durable. Coils of this company also gained worldwide fame thanks to many years of cooperation with Daiwa. But the quality of such coils is unstable. You can buy a good copy, or you can run into an obvious hack.

Perhaps we can name another Chinese manufacturer that produces good coils at low prices. This is Okuma (models Okuma Citrix 273-VLX, Okuma Tormenta TT-260WLX, etc.). The disadvantages are winding and the inconvenience of switching the backstop (from below, not from behind). The bearings are excellent, the overrunning clutch is modern, the line roller has a large diameter bearing.

The products of a European manufacturer are represented by the German company DAM (models FIGHTER PRO MET. 160 FD 1283160, Coil QUICK A-HEAD 100 1095100, etc.) - excellent quality and quality factor. Excellent workmanship, the most modern materials, the price is above average. But they are worth it. Having bought such a coil, you can be sure that it will last a long time without any repair.

Another manufacturer of reliable reels is Mitchell, a French-based company specializing in the production of products for fishing. Among them are world-famous spinning coils such as Tuff-Body Spro ZaltArc XS. Solid, have protection against salt water, clutch protection from dirt and water, a cross-shaped line winding mechanism, spools with line clips and a special front drag system with fine tuning. If we add the original design to this, then these coils are rightfully considered the most reliable, despite their price, which corresponds to the quality.

It must be remembered that many manufacturers transfer their production to other countries and there such a coil is already produced under the brand name of another manufacturer, which does not always correspond to the quality of the original. Sometimes you can see coils without a logo. Hence the conclusion is to look at what you are buying and focus on buying goods from well-known companies.

How to choose a coil

First of all, you need to decide on the following conditions:

fishing conditions;
the weight and size of the bait;
line thickness;
rod ring size.

All these parameters must be coordinated with each other.

Also, when choosing an inertialess coil, you must pay attention to the following:

handle play should be absent altogether;
there should be no transverse play of the spool;
the fishing line should be wound smoothly, lie down evenly;
the line stacker should not spontaneously snap into place;
the coil should not vibrate during rapid rotation;
the freewheel switch and clutch must work clearly.

Do-it-yourself donka for catfish

Catfish is one of the largest fish in our waters. Therefore, most fishermen are interested in catching such prey.

Big prey requires serious tackle, otherwise you will be left without one or the other. You also need to take with you a special and tasty bait. Such highlights are necessary for every fisherman who hunts for catfish.

You can catch such a predator by spinning, just on a reel or by trolling on bottom tackle. Since in this article we will talk about a do-it-yourself product, we will talk about the second option.

To build a fishing gear for catfish, we need a rope or fishing line of special strength (0.5 - 1 mm in diameter), large hooks No. 10-40 and a fairly heavy load.

The design is very simple. We tie a load to the end of our cord, leashes are attached above it (by 30-50 cm), and we hook all this on a carabiner to the main fishing line. That's the whole scheme.

A piece of wood or foam can be used as a coil. In this case, the cord is tied to some tree or bush on the shore. If you use spinning (which is much more convenient for casting), then you need a large reel (4000 series) and reliable. It is important that the spinning itself is strong and rigid and can withstand a serious load.

The beauty of homemade equipment is that it is designed just for trophy catfish. Purchased inventory from the store sometimes fails at the most inopportune moment.

Now we will analyze all the elements of the equipment in parts.

When mounting your own design on a catfish, a braided or twisted twine plays the role of a fishing line. Pay attention to the fact that it is thinner than the sting. As a rule, the maximum load of such a whip is 30-35 kg. You should not waste time on trifles in the length of your cord, take it with a large margin of 50-100 m.

As for the load that will hold our bait at the bottom, it can be bought ready-made, or it can be cast from lead in the form of a cylinder. Knit it at a distance of 50 - 90 cm from the hook. The weight of the weight depends on the reservoir, on the river it is heavier 70-100 g, and in an ordinary reservoir 40-50 g is enough. such equipment options.

Hook is better to put one, but big. It can be made from thick wire (4-6 mm), or you can buy it in a store, which is much easier. They tie our “hook” through the hole where there are notches.

That, in principle, is all that is worth saying about this fishing tool. Now let's move on to some subtleties and baits.

Most often, catfish are caught at night, and in the morning they check their "traps". This is due to the fact that it was at this time that the predator actively hunts and scours the bottom in search of food.

For greater efficiency and to increase the fishing area, it is prudent to cast several donuts at different points. So you will not only increase your chances, but also find out where the barbel hunts most often.

The results of spring and autumn catfish fishing do not differ much, the only thing is that you need to change baits, that is, to know when which one works better or worse. In the spring, he goes well for a bunch of succulent worms.

So, we gradually came to the key point - what to fish for? Catfish tastes change with age. Accordingly, small individuals prefer small prey (creeps, leeches or shells), the middle age category feeds on small fish, crayfish and frogs, and the most adult individuals are able to swallow large fish, water birds, mice and even animals.

As you can see, the choice is very large and even a piece of raw meat can be used as bait. The catfish does not particularly touch with animal food, as it is a scavenger.

Another problem that arises on a new reservoir, fishermen quite often face. This is the right place to fish.

Catfish like to "dig" in holes where it is warm and cozy for them. It is very easy to understand where there is a ravine. They are located on sharp turns of the river or near cliffs. The ideal option in the search would be the presence of an echo sounder, but not everyone has it. And if you act the old fashioned way, then visually you can quickly determine such a place.

It is very effective to catch areas at the entrance and exit of the pits. If you got on it, then consider that you have found a gold mine. Also, be sure to remember your places, because the catfish usually does not change its hunting points and you can safely come here next time.

One night is enough for you to understand the location of the barbel, and then it's up to the small - choosing the right nozzle. You can also try to put a few "traps" near the shore, near the reeds, water lilies or under the trees.

As you can see, catching catfish on a donk is a bit unusual and different from traditional catching other objects. Homemade is always more reliable than purchased, and cheaper. Therefore, do not be lazy and try to do something with your own hands, in the end you will be satisfied with the result.

Do-it-yourself donk video for catfish

Inertialess coil adjustment - what is it and what is it for, let's look at this issue. A modern inertialess mechanism is a very complex mechanism, on average consisting of more than a hundred parts. Each reel is produced under the fishing line of a certain section. That is, the larger the coil, the larger diameter can be used.

This rule does not apply to models intended for match fishing. To understand this situation, just look at the reel body, where there is a marking, what diameters it works with, and the capacity of the spool is also indicated.

In branded coils, adjustment kits are included. Washers can be found in their composition. They are put during manufacture, however, the profile of the coil can be adjusted independently. True, few people know how to do this at home.

Washers are in place where the spool and reel are attached. Expensive spinners are supplied with four or more washers of different thicknesses. With the help of these elements it is possible to adjust the profile of the spool. You can read more about coils in the article " Reel for jig fishing as a guarantee of successful fishing».

In the vast majority of reels with a front friction clutch, the winding taper of the line is controlled by the number of washers that are placed above the ratchet. The control scheme itself with a detailed description and pictures can be found in the attached instructions.

It is recommended to study the diagram before installing the reel on the rod, as it happens that all the washers are already on the axis. The fisherman puts the line on the spool, and when he starts to throw the tackle, he cannot understand what is the matter, because the beard is formed over and over again. To prevent this from happening, adjustment is needed.

How to set up friction brake and baitrunner

The second moment when playing a fish is a properly adjusted friction brake, which to a large extent affects the final result of the fight. At the same time, there is no single standard for the degree of tightening of the friction clutch. Some fish with a fully tightened brake, loosening it only at the moment of playing a large fish, while others, on the contrary, keep it weakened.

The third option for the friction clutch is to make adjustments depending on the degree of rupture of the line. Each angler is right in his own way, but at the same time, one should not forget about the fishing conditions - whether fishing is carried out with heavy lures or a light picker.

The friction clutch is a specially designed device as part of the inertialess coil mechanism. Its purpose is to control the strength and speed of winding the line. The friction brake can be located both on the front of the case and on the back. In match fishing, for example, a rear drag and a small spool are preferred.

The versatile arrangement of the brake does not in any way affect its operation principle. It is especially relevant during the playing of trophy specimens, when, with strong jerks, the forest is etched from the reel. When set correctly, this allows thinner diameter lines to be used.

Reel with front drag. It is considered the most sensitive, capable of responding to slight forest resistance. There are a couple of drawbacks, for example, it is not very convenient to set it up during the fight because of the line that goes from the line layer to the access ring. The second problem is not so comfortable to change the spool.
Reel with rear drag. Its susceptibility is somewhat lower, so the coil is used for powerful gear, such as feeder, trolling. It is quite convenient to make adjustments right during the fight.

We can state the fact that not all anglers adjust the clutch. Some people don't know how, others don't want to. However, there is another factor - the use of Chinese coils with a low-grade braking mechanism. In principle, there is nothing complicated in the adjustment.

The device should work with the active resistance of large fish, so that the forest does not break off, and the spinning does not break. Knowing how to adjust the spool of a spinning reel, you should not forget that it is better to do it on the shore of a reservoir. This is due to the fact that the load that must be applied to bleed the line directly from the reel or through the through rings is completely different.

Lines sliding through the rings at right angles to the rod require much more effort. Therefore, tuning should take place precisely under such conditions. It is best to tie the end of the rig to a stationary object and adjust the friction brake so that it begins to work at about 80 percent of the breaking capacity of the line.

It is worth remembering that there are reels equipped with a baitrunner, which translates as “running nozzle”. This system is designed to instantly drop the line during a bite. You can find out more about this in the article Feeder fishing: budget gear, trophy catch».

It is useful in the following cases:

to study the relief of a reservoir using a marker float;
to install the rod on a stand, so that when biting, the tip does not bend, and the lines are reeled off due to the lowered baitrunner.

It is not difficult to use the baitrunner: after casting the tackle and placing the rod on the stand, the mechanism is put into working position. True, it is first important to adjust the friction brake. At the moment of hooking, the baitrunner turns off after the spool turns.

Predatory fish are mainly caught on spinning. And in addition, spinning fishing involves constant movement and change of lures, which makes it more exciting. Therefore, spinning fishing is preferred by most anglers.

Those who are just beginning to learn the intricacies of this art do not always know how to properly equip a spinning rod so that fishing brings not only pleasure, but also good prey. Indeed, despite the simplicity, such fishing has many nuances that you need to know.

What is spinning

Among the main elements of spinning are such as:

Directly a spinning rod equipped with access rings;
a reel for fixing the fishing line (there are inertia-free or multiplier);
fishing line (also use a braided cord);
· leash;
artificial bait.

All these details have their own functions, which, one way or another, affect the reliability and functionality of the tackle in general.

Main characteristics

High quality spinning gear and, accordingly, fishing depends on the following characteristics: test load, length and action (or response to load). Also, not a key, but an important role is played by the material from which the rod and the design of the handle are made.

Test load

According to this characteristic, the weight range of lures is determined, which is recommended for a particular rod. . Spinning rods are divided according to this characteristic into several types:

There is also several not so common types of rods according to the test load:

Ultra Light, or ultra-light class allows a load of no more than 10 grams.
Medium Light (medium light class) - the load level ranges from 5 to 25 grams.
Medium Heavy, or medium-heavy class - the allowable weight of artificial bait is from 15 to 40 grams.

Professionals recommend choosing a rod with a test load of 12 to 15 grams, if a light bait is used, then the rod test can be 8 - 10 grams. In this case, you should not go beyond the test load. If you use a heavier bait, then the rod may break, and it will be much harder to drive such a bait. If the bait is too light, it will be difficult to cast it for a considerable distance.

This is also an important characteristic on which the results of fishing depend. Measured mostly in meters, it is also possible to meet inches or feet. The length is calculated depending on the fishing conditions, the required casting distance and other factors. Wherein there are several types of spinning based on this feature:

Types of building

Action is the ability to bend a rod relative to the resulting load or resistance. There are fast (when loaded, only the upper part of the rod bends), medium (during the load, the rod bends up to half) and slow action (most of the rod is loaded).

This characteristic is selected depending on the needs. For example, for perch fishing, light rods are often used - in order to cast the bait much further. But mainly rods with a medium action are used, as they are more versatile.

Material for manufacturing

They make spinning rods in most cases from various materials, including the following:

The choice of material from which the rod is made should be made based on the conditions and purpose of fishing.

Spinning handle

The handle is also an important part of spinning., which is made mainly from natural cork, leather and rubber.

There are two types of handles: solid and spaced apart (there are gaps throughout the handle design designed to lighten the rod). There are also single-handed and two-handed handles.

The type of handle does not have a big role in catching fish, but the long handle makes it easier to cope with the most crucial moment of fishing - playing.

At the bottom of the handle, with the help of a holder, a coil is attached.

How to choose the right coil

There are two types of reels for winding fishing line: inertialess (during the cast, the spool does not move at all) and multiplier (the spool rotates during the casting of the fishing line). Professional anglers recommend using the first option, as they have greater sensitivity and casting distance. They are also much cheaper than cartoons.

Among the characteristics are the following:

Having dealt with all the characteristics, you can understand how to properly use the inertialess coil.

Spinning line

For fishing with spinning, braided or monofilament line is usually wound on the reel. Among the advantages of monofilament fishing line it is worth noting the following:

It is very conveniently laid in the spool;
extremely rarely twists;
very soft and elastic, which has a bad effect on the sensitivity of the bite.

This type of fishing line also has its drawbacks., which sometimes do not allow spinning to work normally:

not strong enough, so it often breaks under heavy loads;
Due to its elasticity, its service life is rather short.

Experienced anglers prefer braided line, despite the fact that it is much more expensive than monofilament. This is because the braid is much stronger and less stretchy, making it more susceptible to bites.

The scheme for winding fishing line on a reel is very simple. And it consists of just a few steps that answer all the questions of novice anglers about how to properly wind the line on the spinning reel.

First of all, you need to know how much line to put on the reel. Experienced anglers recommend to put on the line almost to the very end of the reel, leaving only a couple of millimeters. Further directly about the winding process itself:

These steps will help you figure out how to properly wind the line on a spinning reel. With multipliers, the situation is a little more complicated, therefore, in order to do everything right, it is better to watch video tutorials.

Leash for fishing line

Fishing with a spinning rod in itself implies hunting for a predator. Therefore, in order to fully equip the spinning, it is necessary to attach a leash to the fishing line. This is done so that the predator could not bite the main fishing line with sharp teeth.

Three types of leashes are made:

The leash is attached to the fishing line using a conventional fishing knot which can be done by following the instructions below:

you need to wind the fishing line onto the swivel using the rotation of the eye;
the free end of the fishing line is threaded into the resulting loop;
tighten the finished knot.

The choice of bait must be made taking into account that each bait is selected for a certain type of fish and fishing conditions. Below are most popular bait.

Types of rigs

If you know all types of equipment, then even a novice angler will be able to correctly assemble a spinning rod for fishing.

All these types of equipment are used for catching predatory fish. At the same time, a different type of spinning, equipment and bait is used for each fish. Knowing all these nuances, even a beginner in spinning fishing will be able to properly equip spinning.

Attention, only TODAY!