Gorbatenko Peterhof road download for iPad. Peterhof road. Historical and architectural guide

This book is the first experience in studying the Peterhof road along its entire length. It is written in the genre of a guidebook and tells about the history of the construction of residences, estates and other attractions of the road, their location and owners. The review begins from the threshold of the road - from St. Petersburg Kolomna and Kalinkina Square and ends with Oranienbaum and the territories to the west of it.
The book contains many illustrations, plans and drawings, much of which is being published for the first time.

Year: 2001

Language: russian

Pages: 449

File: PDF, 59.13 MB

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S.B. GORBATENKO Peterhof Road Historical and architectural guidebook European House St. Petersburg 2001 Published with the support of the Open Society Institute (Soros Foundation) Russia ISBN 5-8015-0113-4 © SB. Gorbatenko, 2001 © “European House”, 2001 INTRODUCTION The Peterhof Road is not only a communication line stretching along the coast Gulf of Finland from St. Petersburg towards Krasnaya Gorka. First of all, this is a forty-kilometer system of seaside imperial residences and private estates, a chain of palaces, gardens and parks, which may have no equal in the world. In the history of Russian culture, the Peterhof Road occupies a special place, primarily because all the many estates that make up it arose almost simultaneously, as a result of the royal decree. The Primorskaya highway provided them with the ability to perceive them in motion, in all the variety of changing pictures and a wealth of impressions. The Peterhof Road is the embodiment of the “regularity” inherent in St. Petersburg, the triumph of urban planning regulation. It was built on the basis of a module - a standard plot of land measuring 100 fathoms along the route and 1000 fathoms from it inland (213x2130 m). The configuration of these areas is unusual: on the plans they resemble the keys of a giant piano. Evenly spaced estate complexes, interrupted by the powerful dominants of the imperial residences, set a clear rhythm for the unfolding panorama of the coast. The dachas were famous for the splendor of their architecture and the luxury of their gardens. Among their owners and tenants were representatives of the capital's highest society - statesmen, diplomats, high-ranking officials, generals and naval commanders, bankers and aristocrats. At the same time, along with the ensembles of estates facing the road, the estates had their own farms and profitable establishments - farms, orchards, greenhouses, inns, zucchini. Some included villages - and the landscape was complemented by peasant fields and meadows. The Peterhof Road, founded by Peter I in 1710, is actually the same age as St. Petersburg. But if the historical center of St. Petersburg, in the eyes of our contemporaries, retained its image of the “northern capital” - the focus of ensembles of world significance, then the Peterhof Road (as well as many other unique historical landscapes of the city’s environs) turned out to be represented only by some of the most famous palace and park ensembles. The once holistic landscape and urban planning system of the metropolitan agglomeration has now collapsed; the onslaught of the city damages the aesthetics of the landscape, the most valuable estate ensembles, which were once a symbol of the harmonious coexistence of man and nature. An attempt to assess the significance of the Peterhof Road was made back in the middle of the 18th century. the first historian of St. Petersburg A.I. Bogdanov (his manuscript containing the corresponding chapter was published only in 1903)1. At the end of the 19th century, the first comprehensive study of the Peterhof road appeared. I. Pylyaev, which made up most of his work “The Forgotten Past of the Neighborhood of St. Petersburg”2. The narrative is conveyed only to Oranienbaum and is overloaded with details from the life of the owners, often anecdotal. Many estates are missing, and a lot of erroneous information is given. However, this book undoubtedly played an important role in awakening public interest in this topic. The first researcher to devote a monograph to the Peterhof road was P.N. Table1 Titov AL. Addition to the historical, geographical and topographical description of St. Petersburg. from 1751 to 1762, composed by A. Bogdanov. St. Petersburg.. 1903. P. 108-122. 2 Pylyaev M.I. The forgotten past of the outskirts of St. Petersburg. St. Petersburg, 1889 (reprint - St. Petersburg, 1994). pp. 111-392. 4 Peterhof road 1 Pyansky. The book is based primarily on bibliographic sources, primarily materials from the St. Petersburg Gazette and other newspapers of the 18th-19th centuries. The value of P.N.’s work Stolpyansky reduces the common with M.I. Pylyaev's vice is a penchant for telling jokes. After the publication of this book, publications about the Peterhof road did not appear for a long time. It was not until 1953 that a study by T.B. was published. Dubyago about Peter’s estates in the vicinity of St. Petersburg, which used a significant number of previously unknown 2 documents about the Peterhof road. At the same time, an article by Yu.M. was published. Denisov about the estate of K.E. Siversa3. In the mid-1960s. a number of articles by O.A. appeared Chekanova, dedicated to the history, analysis of composition and problems of using ensembles of the Peterhof road4. Chapter " Palace and park ensembles Peterhof Road”, briefly outlining the history of Strelna, the Trinity-Sergius Hermitage, Mikhailovka, Znamenka. His own dacha, Sergievka (and for some reason Ropsha), was included in A.G.’s book. Raskin and D.A. Kucharians about the suburbs of Leningrad5. Monuments of wooden architecture at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries. on the southern coast of the Gulf of Finland dedicated his article to I.Yu. Polenov6. In recent years, local historian D.A. has been working on the topic of the Peterhof road. Aminov, who did a lot to popularize its monuments, in particular, by publishing a series of historical essays in the newspaper “Evening Petersburg”7. Interesting newspaper articles were written by N. Paravyan8. The main content of scientific publications by V.A. Korentsvita - the history of Peter’s estates on the territory of the former Znamenka and Alexandria, primarily Menshikov’s Monkurazh9. A number of our works are devoted to the history and problems of protecting the Peterhof road, including a monograph dedicated to its Oranienbaum distance (see list of references). And yet, despite these studies, the history of the Peterhof road has not yet actually been written. There are no monographs completed at the level of modern scientific requirements even on the world-famous ensembles of Peterhof and Oranienbaum, Strelna and 1 Stolpyansky P.N. Peterhof prospect. Historical sketch. St. Petersburg, 1923. Dubyago T.B. Estates of Peter's time in the vicinity of St. Petersburg // Architectural Heritage. 1953. No. 4. P. 125-129. Subsequently, this material, with some additions, was included in the book: Dubyago T.B. Russian regular gardens and parks. L., 1963. S. 192-199. 3 Denisov Yu.M. 18th century estate on the Peterhof road // Architectural Heritage. 1953. No. 4. P. 148-154. 4 Chekanova O.A. 1) Development of the Peterhof road in the first quarter of the 18th century // Questions of architecture and graphics. Reports of the XXII scientific conference LISI. L., 1964. S. 59-62; 2) Principles of planning in the development of the Peterhof road in the middle of the 19th century // Questions of theory, history and practice of architecture and urban planning. Reports to the XXIII scientific conference LISI. L., 1965. S. 42-45; 3) On the issue of the development of free compositions in Russian architecture of the mid-19th century. (using the example of the Peterhof road) // Architecture. Reports to the first scientific conference of young civil engineering scientists LISI. L., 1965. S. 62-74; 4) Some issues of modern use of palace and park complexes on the former Peterhof road // Architecture and urban planning. Reports of the XXIV scientific conference LISI. L., 1966. pp. 33-35. 2 5 Kyugarians YES. . Raskin A.G. Suburbs of Leningrad. L., 1985. pp. 128-159. Polenov I.Yu. Wooden architecture south coast Gulf of Finland 1860-1917 // Questions of history, theory and practice of architecture. L., 1985. pp. 108-116. 7 Aminov D.A. Along the old Peterhof road // Evening Petersburg. 1994. September 27 - October 25. 8 For example: Paravyan N. Dachas with a strange name // Evening Leningrad. 1990. June 28. 9 Korentsvit V.A. 1) Dachas on the Peterhof Road // Leningrad Panorama. 1988. No. 4. P. 35-37: 2) The Last Palace of A.D. Menshikov “Moncourage” // Cultural Monuments: New Discoveries. 1988. M., 1989. P. 396-412; 3) On the history of the development of seaside dachas along the Peterhof road during the reign of Peter I // Cultural monuments: New discoveries. 1991. M., 1997. pp. 374-388. 6 Introduction to 5 other grand ducal residences. Comprehensive studies, with the exception of the outdated works of Pylyaev and Stolpyansky, do not exist at all. Many estates and entire distances of the Peterhof road remain completely unknown to both scientists and representatives of the administration and the inhabitants of these places, being destroyed before their eyes, and often with their participation. Without any interest or respect for the past, valuable historical and cultural landscapes are being re-developed and archaeological monuments are being destroyed. First of all, the estates that are “forgotten” by historians and the public suffer - so. Now on the verge of destruction, the stone palace of Peter the Great's time in the Roshchinskoye estate behind Oranienbaum, which belonged to the Russian Chancellor Count G.I. Golovkin. That is why we pay here “small” objects almost more attention than the famous ensembles of Peterhof and Oranienbaum. This book is intended to tell about the history of construction and architecture of residences, estates and other attractions of the Peterhof road, to identify them - to determine the location, surviving elements, to trace the change of owners. All this should help their further study, the adoption of measures for protection and revival. To solve our problems, we used all available sources, archival and bibliographic. First of all, these are inventories of dachas along the Peterhof road, archival funds of state institutions and personal, cartographic materials of the 18th-19th centuries. A particularly important role was played by the boundary plans of the dachas of the 18th-19th centuries. Materials from large-scale topographic surveys have been used since the 1930s. to modern ones, on the basis of which the identification of lost and surviving architectural elements was made. Finally, the area itself was carefully studied along the Peterhof road. But a lot of sources (for example, newspaper advertisements or documents from the funds of the Moscow Russian State Archive of Ancient Acts, from the personal funds of dacha owners) remain unstudied and are waiting for their researchers. The specifics of the summer life of estates and residences, festive and everyday, as well as towns, palace settlements and villages located along the road are almost not reflected in the guidebook. This is a topic for a separate study. Biographical information about the owners is minimal (they can be found in special dictionaries and reference books). Unfortunately, the guidebook genre does not allow us to provide the information we provide with links to sources. Therefore, we are forced to limit ourselves to a general overview of them, as well as a list of references. The main principle of the guidebook is topographical. The review begins from the threshold of the Peterhof road - St. Petersburg Kolomna and Kalinkina Square. From here we move along the historical route - along Staro-Petergofsky Avenue, Stachek Avenue, Petergofskoye Highway, St. Petersburg Avenue in Petrodvorets, Oranienbaumskoye Highway, Palace Avenue in Lomonosov, Krasnoflotskoye Highway. The only deviation is the “return” from Avtov to Ekateringof to look at the Emelyanovskaya coastal road parallel to Peterhof. According to the chosen direction of movement, the terms “right” and “left” sides of the road (avenue, highway) are used. When indicating the relative location of estates according to the cardinal points, the road is conventionally taken to be in the east-west direction (except for rare sections where it slopes to the southeast, such as, for example, immediately after the Obvodny Canal or in Avtova). House numbers given without street designation refer to elements of the main route. The dates of the chronological countdown of the history of estates at different distances are different, which is associated both with the circumstances of their origin and with the dating of the first inventory at our disposal. Therefore, dachas in the area between Narva Square and Krasny Zucchini are considered starting from 1762, from Krasny Zucchini to Peterhof, as a rule, from 1714, from Peterhof - from 1719. In rare cases, earlier dates are given (if they are confirmed documented). 6 Peterhof Road Not in all cases it was possible to find out the exact dates of the transfer of dachas from one owner to another. The names of many have not been established at all, and some of the known ones could not be “linked” to specific estates. Identification was complicated by the fact that many, especially foreign, names in documents were extremely distorted, and some even in the middle of the 19th century. are given in several versions. In order to clearly identify estates and other architectural complexes, it was necessary to give them names (only a few and, as a rule, the most famous of them, such as Alexandrino or Kiryanovo, have “established” names). It was necessary to select a worthy “candidate” from the list of owners to name the estate by his last name. This task turned out to be important and difficult due to the lack of information on construction history: most often it is not known under which owner the composition of the estate was formed, and the stages of its formation, which usually relate to different owners, have not been studied. The principle of choosing the first or last owner also turned out to be inappropriate: the former often owned the estate for a short time or used it only for economic purposes, the latter often broke the dacha into small plots and sold them, causing the death of the estate. Many families had several dachas, at different times or simultaneously, and to avoid confusion it was often necessary to name estates by the names of less significant owners. As a result, when giving names to ensembles and complexes, we were guided by the following criteria (in descending order of their importance): - a stable naming tradition; - duration of ownership of the estate; - the owner’s contribution to the formation of the ensemble’s composition; - uniqueness of the name; - historical role and significance of the owner; - attribution I.-G. Georgi; - euphony, ease of memorization and pronunciation. To facilitate identification, the initials of the owners were entered only in extreme cases. In the text, the names of the owners, according to whom the estates and architectural complexes are named, as well as the names of settlements and industrial enterprises, are in italics. In conclusion, it is necessary to clarify the concepts of manor, dacha, estate, estate often used here. The first two mean both land ownership and a residential complex, but the manor - a term common in the Baltics and Finland - is applied both to the ceremonial ensemble of the manor house and to the complex of the modest house of the manager - the “manor house”. Manors were the main economic units in Ingria in the 17th - early 18th centuries. The term “dacha”, derived from the word “to give”, in the 18th century. meant a land grant. In this work it is used primarily in this meaning. This term began to be applied to country houses intended for recreation mainly in the 19th century. “Estate” is primarily hereditary land ownership. And finally, the estate is an architectural complex of a manor house on an estate or in a country house. Compositionally connected with the park, it forms a manor or palace and park ensemble with it. In addition, we sometimes use terms from the 1st quarter of the 18th century: “place”, which means a standard 100-fathom land plot , as well as a “seaside courtyard” - an estate along the Peterhof road. FOUNDATION AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE PETERHOF ROAD Background “...The coast from St. Petersburg to Oranienbaum and beyond... presents a lively picture. In this area, at almost every mile there are palaces, manors and beautiful figured houses, surrounded by gardens, groves and, one might say, artificial fields and meadows. Who would have believed a hundred years before that this barren land could take on its present form? But God was pleased to grant Russia a number of great Sovereigns, and nature yielded to Their almighty will: the sad desert turned into a rich populated country, swamps formed bright reservoirs, dark forests became pleasure groves, meadows and fields appeared on the flowing sand, art gave a hand to hard work... “This enthusiastic review of the Peterhof Road, its assessment as the result and visible embodiment of the cultural efforts of the Russian state, is one of many dedicated to it in letters, diaries, and memoirs of contemporaries. The system of estates along the Peterhof Road stretches along the southern coast of the Neva Bay - the eastern part of the Gulf of Finland. Of great importance in its composition is the geological littorina ledge, which, barely visible in the area of ​​the Red Cemetery, reaches a height of 10-12 m in the Peterhof area. This is the shore of the Littorina and then the Ancient Baltic Sea, which existed here several thousand years ago. The ledge serves as a huge stylobate for the palaces placed on its edge. The ravines cutting through it were blocked by dams and turned into ponds; the waters accumulated in them fell in cascades, feeding water cannons and fountains. Grottoes and terraces were built on the slopes. Many ensembles had two gardens - “upper” and “lower”. This division was also determined by the littorina ledge. Over the millennium that preceded the transformation of the coast of Neva Bay into a huge “ensemble of ensembles,” it repeatedly served as the site of military clashes between the Russian and Swedish states, mass relocations, and was subjected to devastation. This, combined with the harsh climate, did not contribute to the formation of large settlements and stable cultural landscapes. The most ancient population of the southern coast of the Gulf of Finland includes the Baltic-Finnish Izhora people, the last representatives of which still live here. To the south and west lived the Vodi tribe, whose settlements were located mostly on the Izhora plateau. During the colonization of these lands by Veliky Novgorod, representatives of indigenous peoples were converted to Orthodoxy, and Russians settled next to them. Izhora villages located on the territory of the Vvedensky Dudorovsky churchyard of the Vodskaya Pyatina are listed in the scribe books of the 16th century. Unfortunately, in the overwhelming majority of cases they cannot be reliably identified with the known settlements of subsequent eras. However, during the period of Swedish rule, after, under the terms of the Stolbovo Peace Treaty of 1617, 8 Peterhof Road Izhora land came under the jurisdiction of Sweden and became known as Ingria, detailed military and cadastral topographic surveys were carried out here. They give a comprehensive picture of the land holdings, settlements and landscapes of the Dudergofsky (former Dudorovsky) churchyard and, in particular, its coastal strip, which stretched from the present Ligov to Krasnaya Gorka. In 1622-1624. The owner of the Duderhof churchyard was Johan Schütte (1577-1645), an outstanding statesman of Sweden, mentor of King Gustav II Adolf, since 1629 governor-general of Livonia, Ingermanland and Karelia, curator of Uppsala and founder of Tartu universities. For his services, he received the Duderhof churchyard and the title of Baron Duderhof. The churchyard became a barony, hereditarily belonging to the Schutte family. Swedish maps show a developed system of settlements located on the edge of a coastal ledge, at the foot of which the seaside road, the future Peterhof Road, ran. In the area between the current Krasnenkiy cemetery and Ligov, it merged with the large Narva road. At other distances it was a simple country road connecting coastal villages. To the south of the road, forests and swamps stretched all the way to the Izhora ledge. Rare villages were located only on hills - as an example, Papingondo (later Babi Gon) can be cited. Coastal settlements, sometimes consisting of 5-6 households, but more often of 1-2, were mainly farmsteads of Finnish peasants resettled here after the local population began to leave en masse for Russia. Farmsteads formed groups of “bushes” separated by undeveloped territories. Each settlement had established land boundaries drawn transverse to the road. On the coastal territory there were mainly meadows, and on the upper terrace there were arable lands. In the center of the coastal zone of the Duderhof churchyard there was a parish center with a Lutheran church and a parsonage (present-day Martyshkino), on the eastern and western “flanks” there were the Strelna and Azikala manors. Here and there there were taverns along the road. Swedish manors, as a rule, were not noble estates: the owners of the estates did not have the habit of vacationing or living in Ingria - a remote and underdeveloped province of the Swedish state, which existed under the constant threat of Russian attack. In many cases they owned estates in the metropolis. Ingria estates were primarily profitable, and manors were the courtyards of the inhabitants of Ingria with the tools of their labor. officials responsible for collecting taxes Cartouche map of the Duderhof churchyard. 1667 gov. The architecture was uncomplicated. Foundation and development of Peterhof Road 9 Swedish manor on the southern coast of the Neva Bay. A fragment of an engraving depicting the attack of the Swedish fleet on the island of Kotlin in 1705 and, apparently, not much different from a peasant dwelling: as available images indicate, such a yard, in addition to the wooden main house, included small orchards, barnyards, and fish cages. The same can be said about parsonages and other clergy yards. The only exceptions were Lutheran churches, basilicas with high bell towers, which dominated the local landscape. The first historian of St. Petersburg A.I. Bogdanov, explaining the origin of the “seaside yards” along the Peterhof road, saw in them a continuation of the traditions of the country noble estates of the Russian patrimony - places of permanent residence and economic establishments, summer holiday and entertainment. He wrote: “... since ancient times, all the nobles and all the nobility have within the state their own estates and estates, country houses, gardens, groves, forests and meadows, fish ponds and other lands, to which over time, exercising from business, they go for walks and clean air to those country houses and nearby estates in which there are numerous groves for the enjoyment of animal and bird catching, fish ponds, beautiful meadows for a nearby horse farm, gardens and vegetable gardens for collections of vegetables, barnyards for daily food, etc. .. Here (in St. Petersburg. - S.G.) tenacious, not having such lands in this reigning city, everyone about this, not without noble regret, was for the sake of His Majesty Peter the Great, as he pleased, as for the spread of this reigning city of the region by residence , so for the entire dominion, for the sake of entertainment and some small household provisions for success, His Majesty favored the convenient seaside places and islands available in the vicinity of this city, and along the banks of the Neva River, the local residents would distribute dachas of land to the entire dominion, on which country houses and gardens would be built , ponds and vegetable gardens into their eternal possession.” Peterhof Road 10 Idea of ​​Peter I However, according to Peter’s plan, the estates along the Peterhof Road were supposed to perform another very important function - “social and pedagogical”. First of all, the “yards” were seaside, designed to accustom Russians to seafaring, to make the seascape familiar to them, recent hermits of feudal estates protected by solid fences. The wide water panorama has become an integral and important part of the ensembles founded here. The southern coast of the Neva Bay was of exceptional importance for Peter. The new capital was actually cut off by shoals from the sea, access to which was the main goal of the Northern War. But the king dreamed of constantly having him before his eyes; Moreover, he wanted his subordinates to also experience this need. It is symbolic that Ekateringof, a seaside residence intended for Peter’s wife Catherine, was a memorial to the first naval victory over the Swedes. This generally insignificant military episode marked Russia's entry into the vastness of the Baltic. The boundary between two elements turned here, on the edge of Russia, into a symbolic boundary between two worlds - the “motionless” East and the dynamically developing West. To the north, facing the sea routes leading to Europe, the “seaside courts” of Peter’s entourage were supposed to look, many of whom, in the words of A.I. Bogdanov, “they tended to live here in body and in spirit in Moscow. ..” From the very beginning, the estates were conceived primarily as “pleasure” estates, serving for recreation and entertainment. Peter forced his subjects to relax “in the European manner” and use the achievements of European architecture and the art of park construction when constructing their dachas, and at the same time created with their help the ceremonial sea “facade” of Ingria. A traveler arriving in St. Petersburg by sea landed on the island of Kotlin, then, as a rule, sailed to Oranienbaum and then followed the coast to the capital. Thus, the first impression of the new country was formed right here, on the coastal road. The path from the Estate along the banks of the Vecht River. Map of the beginning XVIII century Foundation and development of Peterhof Road 11 Gunterstein estate on Vechta. Engraving. 1690 Western Europe by land, as before, lay along the Narva road, in the Ligov area also “connected” to the Peterhof road. Peter I's love for Holland, in particular for its gardens, is well known, which visibly confirmed man's capabilities in transforming scarce natural landscapes, turning them into flourishing fertile lands - and on the scale of the entire country. Peter I set the same task of creating a landscape “paradise” on the shores of Ingria. Holland in his eyes was a geographical model of the area of ​​St. Petersburg. But, as it turned out, in this country the king borrowed not only compositional techniques of architecture and garden art , but also the landscape and urban planning principle of linear systems of estates located in a row along water channels that formed the basis of the Peterhof Road. In one of Peter’s notebooks we find a mysterious reminder: “About drawings of courtyards along the Utrecht Canal...” We are talking about the famous country estates that belonged to wealthy Dutch burghers and stretched along the banks of the Vecht River between Utrecht and Muiden. For the first time, the king followed this route to the town of Nieusleiz and further along the canal on August 7, 1696. Many years later, in 1716, he recommended repeating it to his wife: “... from Wesel by water down the Rhine (Rhine - S.G. .) to the canal, and by the canal through Utrecht to Amsterdam..." Russian Ambassador to Holland B.I. Kurakin wrote in his diary in 1706: “And at 12 Peterhof Road, the Vekhtlit Estate. Built in 1665, reconstructed in the 18th century. Photo from 2000, the passage from Amsterdam to Utrecht is much nicer: many handsome houses in the Italian style, chambers and gardens are planted... also multiplied by fountains...” And indeed, this is exactly the picture that was painted by those published in the 18th century. uvrages, including numerous types of estates - located both along the Vecht and between Amsterdam and Haarlem, Haarlem and The Hague. The engravings also depict the residences of Stadtholder William of Orange, including the palace and park of Het Loo, Riswick near The Hague, visited by Peter I, and “Petersburg”, built by the Russian resident merchant H. Brant on the banks of the Vecht. Comparing these images with views of St. Petersburg estates, we discover many analogies. In their architecture, Russian “seaside houses” are extremely close to the “pleasure” houses of the Dutch burghers - just compare the estates of David Mendes or “Dornburg” on Vechta with Annenhof, Elizavetgof or the dacha of U. Sinyavin, which stood on the territory of present-day Znamenka. As in Holland, it was planned to lay canals along the coast of Neva Bay in order to bring water communications closer to the estates. However, the most striking example of the relationship between Russian and Dutch country estates is the linear nature of their location, a “modular” system repeated in Russia. However, the Peterhof Road acquired its unique character - primarily due to the peculiarities of the local natural landscape, so different from the mainland flat landscapes of Holland, where estate “garlands” stretched along narrow rivers and canals. The main thing that we have already talked about is the orientation of the Foundation and development of the Peterhof road 13 ensembles to the sea bay, which immediately gave them the colossal spatial scale inherent in French classicist parks. True, the shallow waters of the Neva Bay created considerable difficulties for the construction of berths; In addition, the low bank was flooded with water during frequent floods. But at a distance of about 800 meters from the edge of the water, a steep slope began, ending with a second, upper terrace. An endless sea panorama opened up before the man standing at the ramp. In a letter from the French ambassador Campredon to his king, written in 1723 after visiting Peterhof, there are the following words: “The Tsar ... added that he would like your Majesty to have the same wonderful view in Versailles as here, where the sea opens on one side with Kronstadt, on the other you can see St. Petersburg.” The presence of a high ledge, as already indicated, created another advantage: buildings placed on its edge acquired impressiveness and even grandeur. The ravines that carved the slope provided the opportunity to construct ponds, cascades and other water features. In the depths of the plots there was a forest - “harvesting” for future parks. We have only one direct testimony from a contemporary about the plans of Peter I regarding the Peterhof road - it is true that he arrived in St. Petersburg only on March 14, 1721, but was well aware of the plans of the tsar and enjoyed his great confidence. This is Burchard-Christopher Minich, to whom Peter showed the Peterhof road a few days after his arrival, on March 23, 1721. In 1746, being exiled to Pelym, in a letter to Empress Elizabeth Petrovna Minich promised, in the event of his return, “to make sure that the fifty-verst area from Oranienbaum... up to St. Petersburg was completely covered with houses of pleasure, gardens, fountains and cascades, swimming pools and reservoirs, parks and fun paths, etc., and all this according to the good design of Peter the Great, which was left neglected after his death...” And from the further presentation it becomes clear that according to Peter’s plan, the strip of palaces and parks should have extended along the entire course of the Neva to the Ladoga Canal! Summing up his “points” outlining plans for the development of individual links of this grandiose chain, Minikh wrote: “In a word, so that from Kronstadt to Ladoga on the Volkhov River... the entire space of 220 miles would be covered with cities, castles, palaces, pleasure grounds and country houses houses, gardens, parks, etc.” Until 1709, while the danger of Swedish raids remained (the last of them took place in 1708), the creation of new country estates, and especially residences, was out of the question. On the contrary, it was at this time that redoubts appeared on the seaside road - near the Teltnis farm (the future village of Tenteleva), at the intersection with the river. Red, near the branch of the Narva road. However, already in 1706, the “interpreter” Semyon Ivanov was granted the Red Zucchini for his numerous services - later one of the most famous points on the Peterhof road. 1706 and 1708 important “environmental” decrees date back to the description of forests along the southern shore of the Neva Bay and the establishment of a protected area from St. Petersburg to Krasnaya Gorka. The fact that one of the motivating motives for creating a system of estates along the Peterhof Road was the Tsar’s desire to establish a regime of individual responsibility of owners for the preservation of the forest plot entrusted to them, is also evidenced by subsequent decrees - dated February 1, 1720 “On the non-cutting of forests between 14 Peterhof Road and Peterhof and Ligovoy in coastal areas" and the second, dated June 20, 1721, confirming this regime, but from the mouth of the Neva to Varivaldai. After the Poltava victory, in the fall of 1709, the tsar, having visited the city, left a decree, which, in particular, ordered “to build your own funny stone houses with a fair amount of architectural work, to decorate vegetable gardens...”. Undoubtedly, “funny houses” meant country estates. However, no work on the cultural development of the outskirts of St. Petersburg could begin until Vyborg was taken - an outpost from where enemy raids usually began. It was besieged on March 21, 1710, and on May 26 and 27, during the siege, Peter was already considering plans for residences in Peterhof and Strelna. In September the city was taken. In the same year, Riga, Revel and a number of other fortresses fell, including the center of Karelia, Kexholm. At the same time, intensive construction work began in Peterhof (Popovaya Manor) with the laying of stone palace . On January 13, 1711, setting off on the Prut campaign, Peter I gave A.D. Menshikov an order for construction in St. Petersburg and the surrounding area, which provided for the continuation of work at the Popova Manor, the laying of Ekateringof, and the construction of a yard “for the arrival” in Strelna. In the same year Oranienbaum was founded. The construction of the Peterhof road under Peter I The Peterhof road was preceded by two Swedish ones: a minor coastal one, connecting coastal villages and farmsteads, and another, most important for the main city of Ingermanland, Nyena, connecting it with Narva and the Baltic provinces - Estland and Livonia. It ran along the route of the present Tallinn Highway, Marshal Zhukov Avenue (along Polezhaevsky Park), Stachek Avenue, Avtovskaya Street, in the direction of Ligovsky and Suvorovsky Avenues, reaching the Neva near the mouth of the Okhta, where the Nyenschanz fortress was located. At the beginning of the 18th century. this road was called Koporskaya. Before the appearance of the Kalinkin Bridge, the road between Krasny Zucchini and Fontanka remained a simple country road to the “bush” of villages at the confluence of Tarakanovka and the Fontanka. Its importance increased with the founding of Ekateringof, Annenhof and Elizavetgof, but throughout Peter’s period people traveled to Ekateringof along the Koporskaya, and then along the Tsarskoye Selo roads and along the “prospect” cut through before it, and then along the coastal Emelyanovskaya road (Peter preferred to get here by water and, perhaps that’s why he didn’t build the bridge). The formation of the Peterhof Road as a system of estates began in July-August 1710, when the fate of Vyborg was already decided. By decree of Peter I, Prince Yu.F. Shakhovskaya with “comrades” Yu.F. Shcherbatov, P.V. Buturlin, S O. Chebyshev and JV. Neledinsky “described and measured the land and forest for country yards.” The starting point was Peterhof, which was under construction: “to the Popovaya Manor to the House of the Tsar's Majesty” 1227 fathoms were measured along the coast. According to measurements taken in July, the strip from Popovaya Manor to Krasnaya Gorka was divided into 141 hundred planted sections. In August, the distance from Popovaya Manor to the mouth of the Neva was divided into 115 sections. Foundation and development of the Peterhof road 15 The designed areas had 500 fathoms from the coast into the interior of the territory. The descriptions made by the commission included information about the quality of the land and forest, the presence of villages and fields, rivers, streams and ravines. Particularly noted were oaks - the favorite trees of Peter I. The boundaries of the plots were marked with pillars - one was placed near the coast, the other at the “rear end”. The earliest information about the allocation of plots dates back to December 1710. , when the ownership documents - “data” - were received by Tsarina Marfa Matveevna, her brother Admiral F.M. Apraksin and Prince Yu.F. Shcherbatov with his son. Let us cite, as an example, as a typical text, the text of “this” F.M. Apraksin: “In the summer of December 1710... by personal... decree, a place was given for a country yard in the eternal possession of Admiral... Count Fyodor Matveevich Apraksin in the tract, driving from St. Petersburg along the seashore to Krasnaya Gorka, not reaching Strelina Manor from the large coastal road up the mountain on the Mitkazi river on the right side... and that place is a hundred fathoms in diameter, the length from the seaside road along the Mitkazy river up the mountain is a thousand fathoms... and in addition to the above measure against the same place from the large coastal road straight to the sea of ​​forests and all kinds of land given to the sea...” As we see, the size of the plots increased significantly: now they had a length of 1000 fathoms, and not from the shore, but from the coastal road, and included the corresponding part of the coastal strip. This “module” became the main one for the system throughout the subsequent period of its existence. The distribution of plots was carried out mainly in the next two years. Thus, on January 3, 1711, the chief secretary of the Military Collegium A.Ya. received the dacha. Volkov, January 11 - Cabinet Secretary of Peter I A.B. Makarov, April 20, 1712 - steward P.I. Buturlin, May 25 this year - ensign of the Life Guards Preobrazhensky Regiment P.M. Koshelev. According to a certificate issued in 1800 by the archive of “old cases”, in 1712 Peter I, by his personal decree, ordered Yu.F. Shakhovsky to distribute along the Peterhof road “to different persons lands for country yards,” which were distributed to them “in equal numbers.” Therefore, we can assume that after the isolated awards of 1710-1711. in 1712, a massive distribution of plots was carried out. By 1714, almost all of the “seaside dachas” had found owners. In the same year, under the leadership of engineer-colonel A. de Coulomb, their first survey was carried out. Its necessity was probably a consequence of the imperfection of the layout of 1710, as well as the desire to organize the coastal landscape along the road connecting the capital and the newly created port city on the island of Kotlin. An inventory of plots compiled by de Coulomb has been preserved, indicating their sizes and names of owners. It covers the distance from Peterhof to Krasny Zucchini: the areas between the latter and St. Petersburg, by decree of 1718, went to the coachmen of the Vologda province for the establishment of their settlement. (The drawing drawn up in connection with this indicates that initially on this territory, along the Koporye road, there also were dachas of Peter’s close associates: Chebyshev, the Stroganov brothers, Skornyakov-Pisarev, Yaguzhinsky, Sinyavin, Golitsyn, Shepelev, as well as Tsarevich Alexei. ) As for the distance from Peterhof to Krasnaya Gorka, the inventory of 1714 contains a note: “And further than Peterhof there was no inventory from him, Coulomb, since it was not written in the instructions for him.” Studying the inventory of 1714 allows us to judge the class composition of the first owners of dachas along the Peterhof Road. Among them were many members of the royal family, Peterhof Road 16 representatives of the administrative apparatus, high generals, officers of the guard, army and navy, court officials, people close to Peter I and enjoying his trust. Relatives' dachas were most often adjacent to each other. Two “seats” were listed as empty. The measured rhythm of the “ordinary” dachas was interrupted by the large royal dachas - Ekateringof, Ligovo of six hundred-planted “places”, the vast Strelna, which later included the dacha of A. Kikin, and, finally, Peterhof. These estates were “tied” to rivers, which created the possibility of constructing ponds necessary for the operation of cascades, fountains and other “water projects”: the element of water was the main artistic component of Peter’s estates. In July 1714, in connection with the start of the construction of “provincial” houses on Kotlin, Peter I allowed the commissioners appointed from the provinces to select sites for the construction of brick factories on the coast, including in places designated for “country courtyards.” Such factories arose between Strelna and Peterhof, as well as to the east and west of Oranienbaum. Most of them did not last long. Probably, in 1715, a project arose to lay a canal along the shore of the bay from the “seaside courtyard” of the priest Ivan Khrisanfovich Bitka to Strelna, where construction of the main state residence began at that time. Venetian hydraulic engineers under the leadership of D. Alimari participated in the construction; They were undoubtedly involved in the design of the above-mentioned canal. Shortly before leaving for his second big trip abroad, on January 5, 1716, Peter I left A.D. Menshikov’s “memory” with a list of works that needed to be done in his absence.. The list included the following item: “Where should the canal be from Krisanfov’s yard to Strelina so that this summer it will die out, how many sluices and other anstalt will there be (German: Anstalt - measures, preparations ) to that matter so that there will be no stop at a convenient time later” 1. However, the tsar’s main concern remained the construction of his own residences and private estates, without which it would have been impossible to form a new image of this very special highway. This is exactly how A. explains the appearance of a new inventory (“sheet”) of the Peterhof road. I. Bogdanov, who cites and analyzes it in his manuscript: “But just as then, since previous years, in this new metropolitan city, all the philistine buildings were built carelessly by everyone, so little care was taken about their country houses. For this reason, this testimonial inventory of these places from His Majesty was not made without reason, for all those places, given, apparently, after several years of passing, almost no construction was made in them, and although where it was started, almost nothing , - there was only one view.” Indeed, from the name of the “table” it follows that it was compiled with the aim of determining “what kind of structure is in these places and in which there is no structure and what voids...”. We have established that the “report card” is an extract from the “descriptive books” compiled in 1719 by Captain Zaborovsky. Soon, in 1721, a new inventory was made by Captain Ushakov (combined with Coulomb’s inventory, they were preserved in a copy of 1745). 1 It should be pointed out that the often quoted 9th paragraph of this instruction - “I earnestly ask, in order to diligently supervise the Peterhof road...” - is the result of an erroneous reproduction of the original document in the “Acts of Peter the Great” by I.I. Golikov, from where this text is usually borrowed. In the original document - “...on the Petersburg work...”. Foundation and development of the Peterhof road 17 Analyzing the inventory of 1719, its compiler counted 29 undeveloped hundred-planted “places”, except for the “sovereign” ones, and with the latter - 43, which gave rise to the pessimistic conclusion of A.I. Bogdanov. However, apparently, Peter I did not envisage the construction of separate estates on each “place” by those owners who received several of them (for example, the Dolgorukovs had dachas consisting of three and four “places”, and B.P. . Sheremetev - out of seven!). A.D. Menshikov organized the only estate ensemble in Oranienbaum on five “places” that belonged to him. Peter himself acted in the same way on his vast estates of Peterhof, Strelna and Ligov, where large areas along the coast were empty, remaining “in reserve” or used for economic purposes. Thus, in 1719 there were only nine completely undeveloped dachas along the Peterhof road. By 1721 their number had been reduced to seven. This year's inventory in many cases records the expansion, improvement and appearance of new buildings on estates. So, on the estate of Admiral F.M. Apraksin “mansions were built according to the architecture” in addition to the previous structure. A.I. himself Bogdanov further admits that already during the reign of Peter I, “many country houses were brought into a deliberate state, and more seaside ones. .." At the turn of the 1710-1720s. dachas along the Peterhof road became not only a “state duty”, but also a desirable acquisition. This, in particular, is evidenced by the request submitted in 1719 by the Russian ambassador to Holland and Austria A.A. Matveev: “The most powerful, all-merciful Tsar! Due to my many years of service in the affairs of Your Tsar's Majesty at the European courts, I was not given any kind of seaside place here, not a nearby manor, like other people of my age and of all ranks, the residents here have been given such dachas for all of them to correct all their household needs... And now such a seaside place and a nearby manor in Koporsky district were left after the death of the Privy Councilor Tikhon Nikitich Streshnev... may your state command for my faithful and long-term services to correct my ultimate household needs that... seaside place and that nearby manor... . to give to me and my son...” About the fact that the image of the Peterhof road as a system of estates in the second half of the 1710s. has already been formed, testifies the traveler Gerkens in a book published in German in 1718: “Everything sea ​​coast south of Kronshlot up to St. Petersburg is dotted with country houses and dachas located next to each other. For after his royal majesty occupied Ingermanland, he, however, donated the estates of this region to his ranks of different ranks, but he ordered this strip by the sea to be divided into plots of 500 fathoms wide and 2000 fathoms long, and he distributed them partially senators and boyars, partly to their petty courtiers and some officers. Each of them could, at his own request, build himself one dacha, another yard and housing. Therefore, along these 4 miles along the coast, the yards are next to each other. Since the area is located in such a way that at a distance of about 1000 steps from the sea the shore has almost the same height, 60-70 feet, on which these courtyards and cottages stand one after another, it is easy to understand that this avenue cannot but be pleasant both from the side of courtyards on a hill, and for those who travel along the sea, having a panorama before their eyes, as if in the form of a semicircle. This strip of land is better than all the others, for it has everything necessary, namely: good fields, pastures, meadows, forest, fish and plenty of game birds.” 18 Peterhof Road Estates of U. Sinyavin and Rzhevsky. Fragment of a drawing from 1725. On the nature of the development of the Peterhof road in the first quarter of the 18th century. A drawing dating from 1725 and covering most of the territory of present-day Alexandria and Znamenka gives a good idea. It presents a significant variety of types of estate compositions and buildings. At the dacha of Ya.V. Bruce indicated two manor houses - an earlier one-story one, with a square of outbuildings, and a large palace with side wings, topped with a belvedere. The next site, owned by Dr. Blumentrost, has not been developed. Further to the east, on the plot of Count Chernyshev, a chain of houses for workers of the brick factories that existed here is shown - the future village of Znamenskaya. Rzhevsky's dacha is diagonally crossed by a stream, to the west of which there is a church and a vegetable garden with several outbuildings, and to the east - a modest one-story manor house. The last one shown is the dacha of Major General U.A. Sinyavin, head of the St. Petersburg Office of Buildings. His estate complex, including the main house with a mezzanine, has a strict axial composition. In the depths of the grove located to the south is a gazebo topped with a dome. Gerkens distinguishes two types of estate complexes: Lust-Haus - “pleasure house” (in the above translation “dacha”) and Hof und Wohnung - “yard and dwelling”. The surviving drawings of Peter's buildings confirm their existence. The first type is quite rich, large, often stone houses, built according to individual projects. These, in addition to the royal ones, were the Ivanovo Palace Foundation and development of the Peterhof road 19 of Tsarina Praskovya Feodorovna, “Favorite” A.D. Menshikov, the above-described palace of Y.V. Bruce (future Menshikov's "Moncourage"), stone houses of A.G. Dolgorukova (current Peterhof Own Dacha), G.I. Golovkin (“Roshchinskoye”), “Mom’s Chambers” (later “Sans-Ennui”). The "yards" were more modest. However, they were erected not only by people of average income (often who did not have time to relax at their dachas), but also by wealthier people, for whom they were, in all likelihood, temporary. One way or another, the “yards” also had to play a role in creating a representative image of the Peterhof road. The architectural qualities necessary for this, as in St. Petersburg, could be ensured by the use of “exemplary” projects. Architectural historians know the standard designs of estates, engraved in 1720-1721. and signed by D. Trezzini. No direct evidence of the existence of such projects for the Peterhof road has yet been found. However, with a high degree of probability we can assume that they existed: in Menshikov’s library there was kept “a drawing of houses built along the St. Petersburg road”, and in the albums of drawings that belonged to Peter I, we find the plan and facade of the estate, undoubtedly “exemplary”, with typical such projects with a set of services. Compositionally, it is extremely close to the one belonging to U.A. Sinyavin, as well as the estates of Annenhof and Elizavetgof built for the daughters of Peter. This is how Lady Rondo, the wife of an English resident in St. Petersburg, described her house on the Peterhof road in 1734: “I now have small house outside the city... The house is built of wood, it has only a small hall, two living rooms on one side of it, a kitchen and services on the other, and four bedrooms and offices on the second floor. The house stands on a hill, the grassy slope of which leads to a beautiful meadow ending at the sea. Behind, birch and spruce forest stretches for many miles. There is nothing furnished or cultivated around, for the uncertainty of the weather in this region would make the expense of this ridiculous, and as much as the house looks rustic from the outside, so simple is it inside... our cows, sheep and poultry graze around: they are so tame that they fit to the very windows...” This description is very close to the composition of the house depicted in the drawing from the collection of Peter I. Probably, it was this project, based on Dutch prototypes, that was originally the “model” for the Peterhof road. Subsequently, in relation to the area, the above-mentioned standard designs of the 1720s were used. (intended for construction along river banks, primarily along the Fontanka). “Exemplary” project for a country estate Excerpt from Lady Rondo’s letter to (on the Peterhof road?). It is also of interest because it reflects noFrom the albums of Peter I. 20 Peterhof Road Peterhof Road on the plan of St. Petersburg (“Ottens plan”). Engraving. A new look at the St. Petersburg seaside landscape - the view of an enlightened Englishwoman, a resident of a country in which it was during this period that new views on the relationship between man and nature were formed and landscape park construction flourished. It is not surprising that her attention was primarily attracted by the beauty of the natural landscape (in St. Petersburg at that time the dominant desire was to “regulate” the landscape with the help of geometric structures, including “Dutch” and “French” gardens and parks). However, compositionally complete “regular” ensembles in private estates of the first third of the 18th century. were a rare exception. The plan of 1725 shows that while observing the mandatory principle of placing the manor house on the edge of the terrace and oriented it towards the bay, the estates and landscape elements of the estates within the territories allocated to them were arranged quite freely. The ensemble beginning is almost invisible. Orchards, divided into identical “quarters” by a rectangular grid of alleys, are most often asymmetrical in relation to architectural complexes . Vegetable gardens are adjacent to the gardens. These areas look like inclusions in the natural landscape that dominates the overall picture of the estate. The main, “long” axis of the composition is outlined only at Sinyavin’s dacha and at Bruce’s old dacha house. However, undoubtedly, the latter technique was widespread: in the form of a clearing and a road leading to the sea, the “long” axis was present in the ensemble of Menshikov’s “Favorite”; as a planning element of many estates, it was recorded on the plans of the 1730-1740s. In the 1720s, as before, great attention was paid to the protection of forests on the coast. The planting of oak trees was especially encouraged - such a grove near Ekateringof Peter I Foundation and development of the Peterhof road 21 Plan of the Peterhof road with a project for laying a canal along the coast (fragment). 1734 planted with his own hands. However, felling for the purpose of establishing parks and removing diseased trees was allowed, as evidenced by a special decree of 1723. In 1722, B.-Kh. Minikh began the construction of a coastal canal, the first project of which, as already mentioned, appeared in 1715. Now the canal was supposed to run from the mouth of the Fontanka, through Strelna to the area of ​​​​modern Alexandria, and from here, through shallow waters, to the zone of great depths. However, due to difficulties encountered, this work was stopped, but the idea was not abandoned. Known for his statement “St. Petersburg is a window to Europe,” Francesco Algarotti wrote in 1739: “... They propose to dig... a large and deep canal from St. Petersburg to Peterhof... The Tsar himself ordered this work to begin: he would be delighted when observing warships passing under the shadows and beauties of his gardens, in the same way as in the capital, where he saw the shipyards next door to his palace.” The constructed section of the canal can still be seen on the ground in the area of ​​the Trinity St. Sergius Hermitage. In addition, Peter I intended to build a canal from Strelna to Peterhof “along a pre-speculation road... in which it would be possible to travel on small yachts and boats along the Galan style with horses...”, that is, horse-drawn. This project was also not destined to come true. But, despite such failures, by the mid-1720s. the system of estates along the Peterhof road was practically formed. The visits of many of them are noted in the “Journals” of Peter I and the “Daily Note” of A.D. Menshikov, in the memoirs of guests of the northern capital. Back in 1721 F.-V. Berchholtz wrote in his diary: “To Strelna Manor... we drove safely and well along a very cheerful road along the Neva, through groves and past many dachas, built by the noblest nobles to please the Tsar and making the whole road very pleasant.” In the travel diary, the last time this project was returned to was in 1763-1764. 22 Peterhof road Petersburg of the Bobruisk elder Sapega in 1726, after a description of the visit to Oranienbaum, Peterhof and “Favorite” it is stated: “... we drove along the seashore on land for 15 versts... and then by Perspective, cut through the forest (in which small beautifully built estates), all the way to St. Petersburg.” The time of Anna Ioannovna and Elizaveta Petrovna During the reign of Anna Ioannovna, several large private estates appeared on the Peterhof road - real “regular” palace and park ensembles. This was the dacha of Admiral N.F. Golovin (modern “Znamenka”), where on the site of the former estate of U.A. Sinyavina appeared new house with an extensive lower garden. The estate of M.G. is typical. Golovkin with a labyrinth, a cascade and artistically treated slopes of the terrace, the estate of B.-Kh. Minich's "Shelter", which we can judge from the drawing of the 1730s. from the collection of F.-V. Berchholtz. However, in general, the 1730s. cannot be considered a time favorable for the flourishing of estate culture. This was not helped by the situation at the imperial court with its inherent rudeness of morals, the danger of reprisals, as well as the closed nature of the empress herself and the narrow circle of her entourage. Conducting summer time in Peterhof, Anna Ioannovna supported it with repairs and improved the composition. For her, a passionate hunter, several menageries were set up here - the main one based on the confiscated Menshikov estate "Moncourage". Another colossal menagerie was designed and even began construction in the Ekateringof area, but it was not completed. In the 1730s, when the Kalinkin Bridge was built, the road between Fontanka and Krasny Zucchini became part of an important transit route. This was reflected in the decree of 1739: “On the road that runs from St. Petersburg to Narva, in some places many mileposts are dilapidated... and those pillars were placed along the road through Moskovskaya-Yamskaya, where travelers almost no longer go now, for now the roads have been paved again, one past the Church of the Ascension of the Lord, the other through the village of Kalinkina.” The result of the development of the Peterhof road in the 1710-1730s. was summed up by the publication of the map “The Gulf of Finland from Kronstadt to St. Petersburg with funny houses lying along the banks.” Engraved and printed in large quantities by the Academy of Sciences in the early 1740s, it included an image of a chain of estates and imperial residences on the southern coast, as well as ensembles of Near and Far Oaks on the northern coast. Having been sent to many foreign countries, it promoted the Peterhof Road as one of the main attractions of the Russian capital. During the reign of Empress Elizabeth Petrovna, whose political motto was to follow her father's initiatives, Peter's residences rose to a new level of perfection. Under the leadership of F.-B. Rastrelli reconstructed the ensembles of Peterhof, Strelna, and Oranienbaum. Ekateringof is being rebuilt and expanded. New estates of nobles and courtiers appear along the road. At the same time, the road itself and the territory immediately adjacent to the Foundation and Development of the Peterhof Road 23 were improved, truly turning into a main thoroughfare. By decrees of 1746, responsibility for the reconstruction of the road was assigned to Lieutenant General V. Fermor, while the owners of dachas were ordered to destroy all plank and wattle fences, replacing them with “lattices”, and to fence off the fields with “three-strut gouges.” It was proposed to remove all taverns and taverns from the road. The ban on cutting down trees (with the exception of small forests) was confirmed. The command of June 5, 1750 is symptomatic: “Her Imperial Majesty, during ... the procession in Peterhof, deigned to see a considerable number of beggars along the Peterhof road, for which purpose she deigned to indicate that along this road both on Sundays and on holidays when there were congresses for kurtags in Peterhof (they had), there were no beggars along this road; Why... establish a horse patrol along this road.” Along with the repair of the road itself (widening, paving, installing ditches, rebuilding bridges), straightening of its individual sections began. Between the modern Narva Gate and Komsomolskaya Square, a new route in 1754 was laid along a clearing that had been cut at one time for the designed canal. The following year, a direct section was laid to Krasny Zucchini. As part of the ongoing Ingermanland land survey, the boundaries of the “seaside dachas” along the Peterhof road were again revised and clarified. In 1745, Lieutenant Tinkov compiled a detailed inventory of dacha estates. The result of the work was the Land Survey Book of 1747 with a list of owners and a detailed description of the boundaries, as well as the corresponding “Plan for Seaside Cottages.” It demonstrates a significant variety of planning compositions of estates, usually symmetrical, U-shaped or in the form of a square. A.I. Bogdanov, in his manuscript, described the state of the estates along the Peterhof road in the middle of the 18th century: “And there are so many of them settled, house next to house next to each other, that at a distance of thirty miles from the Reigning St. Petersburg they are settled with great and tall houses, as if one great settlement was inhabited. What is further along the entire shore of the seaside noble building, which the curious himself deigns to explore more reliably, which is impossible to adequately describe, it is left. But now... for the better beauty of these houses, also for the high glory of the entire seaside coast, Her Majesty deigned to order these seaside houses to be decorated with one latticeworked city, in one line...” Despite the panegyric tone, this characteristic is largely deserved trust. Following the example of her father, Elizaveta Petrovna encouraged her entourage to build estates along the road leading to the residences that belonged to herself and the heir to the throne. An interesting attempt is to connect the ensembles with a “uniform” fence, developing Peter’s ideas of regulating the development of this route. The time of Peter III and Catherine II At the end of the reign of Empress Elizabeth Petrovna, the area along the road between the river. It was decided to divide Tarakanovka and Krasny Zucchini into summer cottages. The drawing on which the first version of their boundaries is drawn is dated December 22, 1760. The project was carried out during the reign of Peter III, when the previously outlined boundaries were clarified and plots were distributed. The corresponding decree from the Senate was received on February 9, 1762. The motivation for this decision is interesting: “... the range from the Ekateringofsky Bridge to the Red Zucchini is a place in which thefts always occur and, in addition, a considerable team is used to avoid all this, no less than to decorate the places there, to distribute on both sides to those who wish for the construction of country courtyards...” The foundation of the new ceremonial section of the Peterhof road coincided with the adoption of an act that gave a powerful impetus to the development of estate construction - the manifesto “On the granting of liberty and freedom to the entire Russian nobility” . Confirmed by Catherine II, this manifesto, freeing the nobles from compulsory public service, opened the way for them to the treasures of European culture, allowed them to travel, engage in science and art. The brilliance of the court forced the nobles to follow the example of the empress's inner circle, including in the field of estate construction. The main role model and ideologist of new trends in architecture and park construction was Catherine herself. Early 1760s - the period of formation of classicism in Russian architecture and landscape style in park construction. Regular “French” and “Dutch” gardens were replaced by picturesque “English” ones. It should be remembered that supporters of the former placed “correction” above all else. wildlife , bringing into it ideal order and completeness. The natural landscape served here primarily as the “source material” for creating ensembles in which straight lines and geometric compositions triumphed. For supporters of landscape parks, the most important thing was not active intervention in nature, but following the individual characteristics of the landscape, which became an equal component of the overall picture of the estate. Such parks at the turn of the 1760-1770s. were founded in Tsarskoe Selo and Gatchina; in 1779 they began construction of the English Park in Peterhof. At the same time, the construction of the first “English” gardens began on the Peterhof road: in 1773, while organizing the translation of books by foreign masters of landscape gardening, Catherine II wrote the following dedication: “To the owners of the seaside dachas along the Peterhof road lying this book is brought as a gift from the one who saw natural pleasures and abilities for greater decoration according to the rules prescribed here.” Plans from the mid-1770s indicate that by this time landscape gardens were built at the dachas closest to St. Petersburg: Krasnaya Manor A.A. Naryshkina, Kiryanova E.R. Dashkova, “Champetre” P.B. Sheremetev, at the dachas of Prince Vyazemsky and Count Mordvinov along the Emelyanovskaya road. Behind the Red Zucchini, by this time such a garden on the lower terrace had been built on the estate of L.A. Naryshkina "Levendal". And it is probably no coincidence that in the 18th century. Among the owners and tenants of dachas there were many Englishmen. The impressions of the effect of “merging with nature” were reflected in the review of the French Ambassador M.-D. de Corberon, who visited the estate of Count Chernyshev (modern Alexandrino) in 1776: “There is no garden, it is completely replaced by delightful field lawns.” Chernyshev's estate house reflected the corresponding changes in the architecture of the buildings: the magnificent manor houses in the Baroque style were replaced by classic “Palladian” villas skillfully integrated into the landscape. With all their diversity, landscape parks were perceived primarily by the Foundation and development of Peterhof Road 25 as a single whole, completely changing the character of the landscape of the bay coast. For a traveler passing by the estates, the boundaries between the plots were practically erased. The Peterhof road gradually turned into one grandiose park formation, united by the breadth of the sea panorama. The attention of contemporaries increasingly began to be attracted not by the merits of individual dachas or buildings, but by the image of the road as a whole, built on an organic combination of artificial and natural landscapes. This approach is evident in the drawings of Giacomo Quarenghi, where images of individual estates are included in the prevailing natural landscape. Of great importance for creating a new image of the route was the reconstruction carried out from 1773 to 1784, first under the leadership of General Engineer M. Mordvinov, and then by F.V. Baura. In 1773-1775 new straight sections of the route from Fontanka to Tarakanovka were laid. At the same time, granite city gates were erected on the Obvodny Canal. Following this, work continued on the reconstruction of subsequent sections, up to Peterhof. This project was developed in two versions: in the first, the former lower road was straightened and improved, in the second, part of the road was transferred to the upper terrace. “Lead on horseback,” read Catherine II’s handwritten inscription on the drawing. In pursuance of this resolution, in 1780-1784. The current upper road was built - a section of the highway between the Trinity St. Sergius Hermitage and Peterhof. The new road was built according to all the rules of engineering art of that time. It was highwayd - paved with stone and covered with crushed stone, drainage ditches were laid, granite bridges were built (only one of them, in the Znamenka area, has been completely preserved). Marble milestones and pyramids were installed along the road, and it was lined with birch trees. The number of country houses along this high road is constantly increasing. All large gardens have a noble forest, the oldest in the Dutch style, with straight, partly covered paths, alleys, etc., the newest ones according to the Aglinsky layout, with winding paths in the forest and bushes, with canals, islands, etc. A larger number of them are located near pleasure grounds forests, also open pleasure gardens, magnificent, and partly fruitful gardens, others with greenhouses, etc. The houses in the gardens are extremely diverse; wooden and stone, small and large, some of them are palaces of many different types of structures. Most of them have a beautiful view of the whole country with its changes, of St. Petersburg, Kronstadt, of the bay along which ships sail, and of the Karelian coast. - I.-G. Georgi, 1794. The time of Alexander I and Nicholas I. The reign of Alexander I for the Peterhof road was marked by an important event - the revival of what was not completed in the first third of the 18th century. ensemble of Strelna, which became the residence of the Tsar's brother, Grand Duke Konstantin Pavlovich. At the same time, the Strelny German colonies Neudorf and Neuhausen were founded. This exemplary architectural and landscape complex on the final section of the Narva Highway became the “front hall” of the following distance of the Peterhof Road. The victorious end of the war with Napoleon was marked by the construction of the Narva Triumphal Gate. Estate construction continued to take place, and contemporaries continued to admire this highway. Here is an eloquent description made in 1824 by Countess Choiseul-Gouffier, who arrived from France (we will forgive her the sentimental tone and some inaccuracies characteristic of that time): “We arrived in early June, in an era when there are no nights in this northern country. From the last station, i.e. from Strelna... in the space of three French miles, the road runs along the highway between two rows of dachas or charming village houses, overlooking the sea on one side, and on the opposite side the canals or branches of the Neva (there are mean the Lithuanian Canal? - S.G.). These dachas are separated from each other, as if by a large road, by a number of gardens dominated by white-trunked birch trees, the pale foliage of which stands out against the dark greenery of northern spruces and pines. Vases of flowers, gracefully arranged or grouped among the trees, represent, as it were, the personification of spring, which gives the inhabitants of the north only one smile... All these buildings are very diverse in architecture and general character. Here, amidst a mass of greenery, you see a Greek temple with its beautiful peristyle and graceful staircases; there is a Chinese pavilion with pagodas and silvery ringing bells; further you see a Swiss house, a modest-looking building that hides luxury under a deceptive appearance. And here is the Italian belvedere, rising gracefully above the surrounding trees and forming a picturesque contrast with the Gothic castle and its crenellated towers. Everywhere, in huge greenhouses, they are sheltered from the fresh or chilling air of those fruits that the sky usually bestows on happier climates and with which rich Russian nobles satisfy their voluptuousness for big money. In a word, thousands of objects, symbolizing tastes as varied as they are intricate, are revealed to the gaze of the traveler. The outskirts of Paris - with the exception of the royal palaces - present nothing that could equal the splendor of the outskirts of St. Petersburg, where, however, everything is created by art. These beautiful buildings, born of wealth and whim, are built on poor soil, which was once a vast swamp “One cannot help but be surprised by the stylistic diversity of estates located along the road noted here. But even more remarkable is the high praise given to the route, which for many travelers embodied the image of the surroundings of the northern capital and at the same time was a symbol of the colossal efforts made to transform the meager northern nature. In the second quarter of the 19th century, the last brilliant page in the history of the Peterhof road opened. With the accession to the throne of Nicholas I, the sovereign of the era of Russian romanticism, the “knight on the throne”, who saw himself as a successor of the ideas of Peter the Great, the purposeful landscape formation of the environs of the northern capital, and primarily the estates of the imperial family, began. Back in August 1825, being the Grand Duke, Nicholas received the Peterhof Deer Menagerie as a gift, where he began to lay out a landscape park and build a miniature palace of a new type - the “Cottage”. In 1832, the Emperor made Peterhof his official summer residence and from that time began to acquire private estates around Peterhof. On their basis, new residences are created, old ones are improved and reconstructed. According to the apt remark of N. Kukolnik, who perhaps outlined the concept of Nicholas I himself, “Peterhof should not be considered a separate suburban place, but the center of a large system of royal and private villas located along the shore of the Neva estuary to the Gulf of Finland, far above Kronstadt and its batteries.” However, not only villas and new parks are springing up on the coast. Entire cultural landscapes were formed in which nature and art, aesthetics and “practice,” parks and fields, palaces, pavilions and peasant huts were equal in rights. This world of harmony, a gigantic picture of ideal Russia, was created by the best gardeners, architects, agronomists, engineers and hydraulic engineers. New estates - the improved Strelna of Grand Duke Konstantin Nikolaevich, Mikhailovka of Grand Duke Mikhail Nikolaevich, Znamenka of Empress Alexandra Feodorovna, imperial Alexandria and Peterhof, the Farm of the Prince of Oldenburg, the own dacha of the heir to the throne Grand Duke Alexander Nikolaevich, Sergievka of Grand Duchess Maria Nikolaevna stretched along the coast almost continuous strip almost 14 kilometers. To the west of them lay Oranienbaum, whose owner was the Tsar's brother, Grand Duke Mikhail Pavlovich. Four estates between Strelnaya and Peterhof were united by the Morskaya walking road, built in 1849 along the shore of the bay. During the landscape transformation of the bay coast by the middle of the 19th century. Twelve large landscape parks were laid out and reconstructed, half of which were in Peterhof. The new parks along the Peterhof Road were distinguished by their enlarged scale and complex structure. Branched water systems were built here, first-class highways were laid, “model” villages were erected, and agriculture, advanced for its time, was created. These landscapes included park pavilions, many of which were associated by members of the imperial family with buildings seen on their travels abroad. Lady-in-waiting of the Empress A.F. Tyutcheva recalled: “Peterhof and all its surroundings are dotted with pleasure pavilions, Dutch mills, Swiss chalets, Chinese kiosks, Russian huts, Italian villas, Greek temples, Rococo castles, etc., etc., built by Emperor Nicholas for entertainment and for the amusement of Empress Alexandra Feodorovna, in which she is in the habit, when she lives in Peterhof, to spend her days, endlessly diversifying her stay. ..” An important role in the image of the Peterhof road was played by the “green pauses” of field land between Strelnaya and Mikhailovka, sections of the villages of Bobylskaya and Martyshkino. With their discreet beauty they set off the luxury of state residences; through the open spaces of fields and vegetable gardens there were views of the sea. It is interesting that during the Crimean War, the coast was preparing to become a defensive line: a barrage of reddish barriers came out here, and batteries were built north of the Kronstadt colony - Klyuchinskaya, Izmailovskaya, Opolchennaya, and the Yegersky redoubt. The owners allocated land from the imperial estates for the construction of estates for their confidants. In Strelna, such satellite estates began to be created 28 Peterhof Road at the beginning of the 19th century; in Peterhof this process began in the 1830-1840s. Such rich estates arose both in the city itself, which during this period was intensively built up under the control of the emperor himself, and in its environs. Of particular interest were the villas near Oranienbaumsky Descent, the narrow sections of which in miniature corresponded to the configuration of the dachas along the Peterhof Road. The ongoing road construction improved the connection between the Peterhof road and the outskirts of the capital. During this period, the Krasnoselskoye highway (from Strelna to Krasnoye Selo), Ropshinskoye (from Znamenka to Ropsha), Volkhonskoye (between Mikhailovka and Tsarskoye Selo) were built. New estates were built along the road itself, belonging to major officials, military men, and merchants. The road to the official residence of the emperor, connecting St. Petersburg with the guards military camps in Krasnoe Selo, reached its peak. June 28, 1834 A.S. Pushkin wrote to his wife from the capital: “Petersburg is terribly boring. They say that light lives on the Peterhof road...” Peterhof road in the second half of the 19th - 20th centuries From the second half of the 19th century. The gradual decline of the Peterhof Road as an integral architectural and landscape system begins. Actually, the first signs of this became noticeable at the end of the previous century. Gradually, financiers, merchants, and industrialists became the owners of most of the estates on the bay coast. According to P. Svinin, “... along this road ancient Russian hospitality has decreased, but brothels of entertainment have multiplied; At the same time, the huge boyar castles were replaced by the pretty houses of the merchants, or passed into the hands of this class.” With the decline of Catherine's brilliant era, the features of noble estate culture became more and more noticeable. In 1801, the first industrial enterprise appeared on the Peterhof road - a state-owned iron foundry (future Putilovsky). Throughout the entire 19th century, especially in its last third, new plants and factories arose behind the Narva Gate. At the same time, houses for workers, shops, taverns, and later schools, hospitals, and churches were built. At the same time, the area behind Krasny Zucchini largely retained its former character. In the 1880s A.P. Verlander wrote: “The entire area near the Peterhof highway can be divided into two parts, sharply different from one another: 1) from the Narva Gate to the village. Avtovo and 2) from the village. Avtovo to the end of the county. In the last part there are no plants and factories, the dachas and houses are good, representing wealthy owners, and are located at a distance of half a mile from each other... On the contrary, in the area from the Narva Gate to the village. Automotive dachas stand densely one next to the other, all wooden, dilapidated, dilapidated; this part of the city was populated mainly by workers...” In 1857, railway traffic opened from St. Petersburg to Peterhof, and in 1864 the line was extended to Oranienbaum. In 1904-1908 A military railway was built to Bolshaya Izhora, which was also used for travel by private individuals. Foundation and development of the Peterhof road 29 The laying of railways was of great importance for the fate of the Peterhof road. On the one hand, its importance as a transport route decreased (and steamship traffic along the bay also decreased). On the other hand, the coastal strip has become much more accessible to citizens. Soon it turned into one of the favorite countryside vacation spots for St. Petersburg residents. After the release of the manifesto of 1861 and the liberation of the peasants, the process of territorial disintegration of large estates, which included villages with their field lands, began. With the transfer of these lands into peasant ownership, landscape regulation here ceased. At first, this did not cause any significant damage to the landscape. However, with the division of communal lands, they began to be massively purchased by land speculators for the purpose of resale for summer cottages. In the same way, many private estates along the Peterhof road were bought for dachas. In the second half of the 19th - early 20th centuries. Many dacha towns arose along the route - such as Knyazhevo, Dachnoye, Ligovo, Volkhonka and New Places in Strelna, Zavetnoye in Peterhof, Bogumilovka in Oranienbaum. With gasket railway and with the construction of holiday villages on estates, parks and forests located in the depths of their territories began to be intensively cut down. Among the few that have survived to this day are “Alexandrino”, “Sosnovaya Polyana” and Peterhof’s Alexandria parks. In connection with the development of holiday towns on the southern coast of the Gulf of Finland in the 1910s. The construction of an electrified railway from St. Petersburg to Oranienbaum was undertaken - later called “Oranel”, or colloquially Oranel. Due to the outbreak of the First World War, construction was not completed: traffic opened only to Strelna. Between Sergievka and Martyshkin you can still see the embankment and reinforced concrete bridges prepared for this route. The urbanization of the Peterhof road entailed the massive destruction of ancient estates and their gardens. At the beginning of the 20th century, society began to realize the value of the route as a huge monument of St. Petersburg architecture, urban planning and culture, and to vote in its defense. So, N.N. Wrangel wrote with bitterness: “On the Peterhof road... suburban estates were destroyed and rebuilt, the marvelous dachas of Shcherbatov and Myatlev were given over to insane asylums. Only the house of Count A.D. Sheremetev (Alexandrino. - S.G.) looks slender with a white facade from behind the trees of a huge garden...” In 1915, M.I.’s dacha was examined in detail. Vorontsova (Novoznamenka), measures have been taken to protect it. At the same time, today one can only regret that a real survey of the historical and cultural landscapes along the southern coast was not carried out at that time: materials from topographic surveys of the 1930s. indicate that most of the estates and parks behind the Red Zucchini were preserved even at that time. Researchers of that time, like those of today, were primarily attracted to the central regions of St. Petersburg, while outside the city, attention was paid only to monuments of the 18th - early 19th centuries. and imperial residences. However, the school of domestic art history and scientific local history was just taking shape at the beginning of the 20th century. The situation could have changed in the next decade, but the First World War and revolution prevented it. After 1917, most of the estates of the imperial family and estates along the Peterhof Road were transferred to various organizations. Many palaces housed colonies for street children or correctional institutions (often these were the same thing). Only some ensembles of Peterhof and the Oranienbaum Chinese Palace received museum status. The low cultural level of the majority of the new owners, the propaganda of the ideology of “total” destruction of the heritage received from the former Russia, the lack of financial resources for basic repairs, theft and vandalism led to the destruction of many estates. In the 1920-1930s. In the Narvskaya Zastava area, a new public center was created with residential buildings for workers and ensembles of squares - Kirovskaya and Stachek. To the west of the former Putilovsky, now Kirovsky plant, the formation of the Avtovo residential area began. The rest of the Peterhof road did not undergo urban planning transformations and in the master plans of the city was considered as a green recreational area - the Primorsky Park, merging in the west with the gardens of Strelna and other former residences. There was no talk about the historical and cultural value of these territories: it was still believed that there were no monuments worthy of interest here, and the gardens were considered only as green areas. Famous local historian V.Ya. Kurbatov, in his guidebook “Strelna and Oranienbaum”, published in 1925, described this area as follows: “The highway has significantly changed its appearance, approximately to Krasny Zucchini. But further on, the gardens along the slopes of the hills have been preserved, but the disappearance of the palaces is imperceptible to the walker. That’s why a tram ride along this road is one of the most pleasant...” Only the hospital named after them deserves special mention. Trout, Alexandrino and Polezhaevsky Park. However, in the post-war period, plans to preserve these areas as parks were also revised. In the 1960-1980s. west of Avtov, the construction of residential areas of Dachny, Ulyanka, Ligov, Sosnovaya Polyana with multi-storey standard buildings began. Extending to the road itself, to the edge of the terrace, for most of its length it buried the remains of historical parks, buildings, and traces of planning. Only part of the historical gardens (to the east of Tambasova Street), mostly the “lower” ones, were reconstructed and became part of those laid out in the 1970s. South Primorsky Park. ARCHITECTURAL ENSEMBLES AND DISTANCES OF THE PETERHOF ROAD KOLOMNA The threshold of the Peterhof road is Kolomna - a district of St. Petersburg, located between the Kryukov Canal, Moika, Pryazhka and Fontanka. Through this area, after construction in the 1730s. wooden Kalinkin bridge, there was a road from the center of the capital to the coast of the Gulf of Finland. Regular development of this part of the city began in the second half of this decade, after the “Commission on the St. Petersburg Building”, headed by B.-H. Minikh, developed a number of master plans for the Admiralty and adjacent parts of the city, including Kolomna. During the design there was a route leading to the imperial palaces of Ekateringof and Peterhof was provided. The route of Sadovaya Street, which became the main axis of the southern part of Kolomna, was not suitable for this: oriented towards the Kalinkin Bridge, in fact it led to a dead end, to the cape at the confluence of the Fontanka and the Glukhaya River. , through which there were no bridges at that time. But from the Yusupov estate, at an angle to Sadovaya, a special highway was designed - Ekateringofsky Prospekt (Rimsky-Korsakov Avenue), which, crossing the Glukhaya River, went out to its northern bank and led along the embankment to the Kalinkin Bridge. This situation is reflected in an engraving by Pyotr Shtelin, made in the 1760s: on it we see the mouth of the Fontanka with a long narrow island located in the middle, on the left is the road along the not yet fortified embankment of the Glukhaya River, to the right is the aforementioned cape with the wooden buildings of Kolomna, above in the distance rise the churches of St. Nicholas the Sea, the Ascension and the Vladimir Mother of God. Kalinkina Square appeared in the second half of the 18th century, when, during large-scale hydraulic work to transform the Glukhaya River into the Ekaterininsky Canal, its course was changed: the curved final section was filled up and a new, straight one was dug, shifting it to the east. This was preceded by master plans of 1766 and 1769, according to which, on the city border running along the right bank of the Fontanka, a vast semi-circular square was designed, with five streets fanning out from it, inscribed in a triangular quarter limited by canals. The square, which was intended for the sale of food brought to the city, was at the same time supposed to become the ceremonial “entrance hall” of the capital (similar bridgehead squares, only smaller in size, were supposed to be built at other entrances to the city, including on Nevsky Prospekt). The decree of 1766 read: “These squares are intended not for trading alone, but following the example of other European cities and for the decoration of the city...” Regarding Kalinkina it was said: “Assigned... under number 3, the square for everyone arriving from the Livlyandskaya side to the city will be the first to present itself, and in front of it the passage is now very dirty and without any decoration...” It was planned to give the square a uniform architectural appearance, building it at public expense “with such a façade as was created by the Commission and will be worthy of the highest approval.” 42 Peterhof Road Kalinkina Square. Lithograph by F.-W. Perrault. 1841 Kalinkina Square (Repin Square). Photo by T.N. Ladynina. 1990s Kolomna 33 However, this plan was not implemented: it required the demolition of the already partially formed buildings of Kolomna and large hydraulic work to lay new canals. Layout of Kolomna quarters in the 1730s. was preserved, and the area bounded by the Fontanka, the Ekaterininsky Canal and the building line of Ekateringofsky Prospect took the shape of an irregular rhombus, and then, when in the first third of the 19th century. its eastern side was built up and became triangular. The leading building in the ensemble of the square is the Kolomenskaya part of the moving house - a massive building made of red brick in the Renaissance style, with high tower in the center. For the first time, such a house with a fire tower was supposed to be built here back in 1738, but the first permanent building, combining the qualities of a fire department and a police department, was erected only at the end of the eighteenth century. It is depicted in the lithograph by F.-V. Perrault 1841: this is a two-story house in the style of strict classicism with an Ionic portico and a wooden observation tower, adjoining the carriage houses of the fire escape. The existing building was built in 1849-1851. designed by architect R.A. Zhelyazevich. Adjacent to it from the north is a house with a semicircular tower projection: in it in 1882-1895. lived and worked I.E. Repin, for whom in 1887 the architect A.I. Reimers built a workshop. The northern side of the square includes a number of interesting buildings of the late 18th - early 19th centuries, which were subsequently rebuilt (for example, houses 109 and 111 on Rimsky-Korsakov Avenue). From the west it is closed by the buildings of the Admiralty Plant. In the middle is a square, laid out in 1875 at the expense of the merchant Landrin according to the design of the architect A.I. Mertz. At the end of the square facing the Fontanka there is the main sign that the square belongs to the Peterhof Road - a milestone obelisk made of marble and granite, erected during the reign of Catherine II, with a sundial and the number “26”, indicating the distance to Peterhof. However, it was moved to this place in the 2nd half of the 19th century, and previously it stood on the right side of Staro-Peterhofsky Prospekt, near house No. 3. The Staro-Kalinkin Bridge across the Fontanka connects Kalinkin Square with the historical route of the Peterhof Road - Staro-Petergofsky Prospekt. In 1786-1787 The bridge replaced the previous one, built in 1752, which in turn replaced the original one, built in the early 1730s. These bridges were arched, wooden, with Dutch-type draw mechanisms. Probably their creator was Harman van Boles, the author of many similar bridges in St. Petersburg. The new stone bridge, built according to a “model” design specially developed for bridges along the Fontanka, despite a number of reconstructions, still retained its historical features - granite abutments, parapets and towers, which previously housed the mechanisms of the wooden draw span. This architectural concept was based on the design of a bridge across the Neva by the French engineer J.-R. Perrone, developed by him in 1778. Simultaneously with the construction of the bridge in the 1780s. The banks of the Fontanka were lined with granite and large earthworks were carried out to reconstruct its bed: the Pogany Island, which divided it in two, was partially razed and made trapezoidal in plan (it was named Galerny). The bed of the Fontanka in the area of ​​the bridge was narrowed, the banks of its two branches were straightened. The three-span Malo-Kalinkin Bridge with elegant lantern-obelisks was thrown across the new mouth of the Catherine Canal. FROM FONTAKA TO THE BYPASS CANAL Behind the Staro-Kalinkin Bridge, Staro-Petergofsky Prospekt begins - the historical route of the Peterhof Road. According to the first administrative division of the city in 1737, this territory became part of the St. Petersburg Moscow side, but in fact remained suburban. In 1766, it received the status of a suburb called Livlyandsky (later Riga). Its borders from north to south extended from the Fontanka to the planned urban pasture ditch (the future Obvodny Canal). Between them, according to the master plans of the 2nd Admiralty part and the suburbs of 1766 and 1769, two parallel highways were designed - modern Rizhsky Avenue and Kurlyandskaya Street. They were laid out on the ground and began to be built up in the 1770-1780s. In 1782, the Riga suburb became part of the newly formed Moscow, and subsequently - the 4th Admiralty and then the Narva part of St. Petersburg. The development front along the bank of the Fontanka to the east of Staro-Petergofsky Prospekt was formed in the 1750s - early 1760s: here, along with the large estate of the merchant Kirill Popov located near the bridge, there were peasant courtyards of the village of Metalova, houses of sailors, artisans, retired military men, adjacent to the estates of the “widow Timmermansha,” and the savings of Kerlen’s adviser, Major General Dannenberg. Beyond the line of what is now Drovyanaya Street, the parade ground of the Izmailovsky Life Guards Regiment began. Subsequently, in the middle - second half of the 19th century. On the site of these households, new buildings were erected, mainly medical institutions. The former Dannenberg site today houses the Goznak factory. To the west of the road, along the left bank of the Fontanka, stretched an area known as Kalinkina Village. The name “Kalinkina”, which is still preserved in the names of the bridges and the lane of the same name, comes from the name of the Finnish village Kalljula, which at the end of the 17th - beginning of the 18th century. was located on the left bank of the Fontanka, on the site of houses 160-164. She was not the only one - several more farms (Romana, Khurkiala, Kiprina) were located along the bank of the now defunct Tarakanovka River - modern Tsiolkovsky Street, between the Obvodny Canal and Kurlyandskaya Street. One of these villages gave the river its name: in the middle of the 18th century. they were called Kalinkina, Tarakanova, Metalova, Kargalova and Romanova. In Peter's time, this area became part of the Ekateringof estate. There is a legend about the secret wedding of Peter I and Catherine on November 20, 1707 in the Ekateringof wooden church or chapel, erected in honor of the first naval victory over the Swedes. In the 1710s. she was transported to Strelna, where, as a chapel in the name of St. Nicholas was added to the Transfiguration Church there. All the way from the Fontanka to the Obvodny Canal 35 View of Kalinkina Sloboda. Engraving by P. Shtelin. 1760s Until 1746, the Kalinkinskoe cemetery existed in this area - the main cemetery on the Admiralty side. This year, “due to the proximity of the Imperial House,” burials on it were prohibited, and gradually it disappeared. In the 1710-1720s. near the Kalinka village, on the banks of the Fontanka, a number of palace industrial establishments were established. This is a linen factory - the famous Spinning Yard, the Shpalernaya Manufactory (transferred from here to the current Shpalernaya Street in 1732), cereal and oil windmills. There were also factories for making powder and braiding here. A “parchment” factory was built on a small island at the northern tip of Gutuevsky Island. By the middle of the 18th century. the village turned into Kalinkina Sloboda, where merchants, officials, and military men lived. In 1762, along the embankment to the west of the Peterhof road there was a tavern, behind it there was a large house, a garden and a menagerie of the merchant Reinhold, then the houses of the priest of the Ekateringof church Nikita Yakovlev, adviser Shtelin, the “naval soldier regiments of captain” Potap Chernyshev, Major Ivan Kazakov, Kalinkinsky spinning house with a vegetable garden. Behind the future Libavsky Lane there was the yard of Lieutenant Boris Shablykin, and in the area of ​​the former cemetery there was a government vegetable garden. Of these inhabitants of Kalinkina Sloboda, the greatest mark on Russian history was left by Jacob Shtelin, one of the most enlightened people in Russia in the mid-18th century, educator of the future Emperor Peter III, and the first historian of Russian art. Thanks to those performed in the 1760s. His son Peter’s engravings with views of these places give us an excellent idea of ​​the Kalinkina settlement of that time. In its development, three two-story houses stand out - Reinhold, Shtelina 36 Peterhof Road and the Spinning Yard, as well as a brewery, a sugar factory and the house of the merchant Popov standing on the other side of the road, to the east of it. This is how Shtelin characterized his property in an advertisement in 1767: “On the banks of the Fontanka River between the Kalinkinsky Bridge and the seaside, a large place is being rented out, on which a new house has been built with four chambers, having an avenue (view. - S.G.) both on the seashore towards Kronstadt and at the mouth of the Neva River, in the yard there is a kitchen with a quiet area, a barn and a stable, and also a spacious garden area; Those wishing to hire can inquire about the price from... State Councilor Shtelin.” The settlement suffered severely during the flood of 1777. French diplomat M.-D. de Corberon, describing its consequences,” noted: “But most terrible of all is the situation in the Kalinkinsky suburb, where all the houses are destroyed and the corpses of men, women and children lie everywhere.” Probably only the stone buildings of the Popov factory and the Spinning House were preserved (which, however, was soon dismantled and built again). The property of the merchant Popov was located on the site of a large complex of the Naval Hospital, dominating the development of the left side of Staro-Peterhofsky Avenue behind the Staro-Kalinkin Bridge. For the first time, the buildings were shown here on plans of the 1730s. In 1756, there was an order to find out. , with whose permission Kirill Popov was allocated a place for the construction of a brewery. Three years later, a decree was issued on the dismantling of the breweries built along the Fontanka, but three days later it was canceled “taking into account the reasons presented by the Chief of Police at the mouth of the Fontanka River and the former Kalinkina Sloboda.” . Fragment of the plan of St. Petersburg in 1828 (“Schubert’s plan”) From the Fontanka to the Obvodny Canal 37 The “English” brewery that stood on the very shore was carried away by the flood. The three-story stone factory building - a square with a courtyard and outbuildings protruding to the east - remains in the depths of the site, half-covered by hospital buildings (156 Fontanka River Embankment). The former Popov sugar factory, now owned by the creditors of the deceased merchant Leader, near the Kalinkin Bridge. The factory itself is a tall, large stone building with a large yard. - I.-G. Georgi, 1794. At the beginning of the 19th century. a barracks was set up in the building, which became known as the 2nd Marine barracks. In 1836 it was partially converted into a hospital. Perhaps it was at this time that the facades of the building received classicist elements - an elongated attic, sandstones above the windows of the upper floor, rusticated blades. In 1845-1853 designed by architect M.A. Pasypkin, a corner barracks building facing the bridge was erected. In 1866, this building was also transferred to the Naval Hospital. Subsequently, it was built on the 3rd floor (Fontanka River embankment, 156a). In the 1950s on a neighboring plot according to the project of D.P. Buryshkin, a monumental hospital building was erected in the “Stalinist Empire” style (Staro-Peterhofsky Ave., 2). On the other side of the avenue there is a small square, adjoined to the south by a two-story residential building in the classicist style. On the site of the park since the middle of the 18th century. there was a tavern: at the beginning of the next century, the house with a drinking establishment on the ground floor belonged to the merchant Dubinin, and then Pavlovsky. The building had a cut-off corner facing the bridge with a balcony; the facade overlooking the Fontanka was crowned with a pediment. This house was destroyed already in Soviet times, only the neighboring one, which belonged to the 1820s, survived. merchant Pelevin, and in the 1840s - Yakimov (Staro-Peterhofsky Ave., 3-5). Next to him late XIX V. the first marble milestone along the Peterhof road stood (now on Repin Square). The next large classicist house along the Fontanka, the left wing of which follows the bend of the river, is the main building of the Naval Hospital (Fontanka River embankment, 162). It was built in the 1st quarter of the 19th century. and belonged to the merchant Pelevin, and then to Princess Shakhovskaya, from whom it was purchased in 1835 and in 1836 rebuilt into a hospital according to the design of engineer-general L.L. Carboniera. Thus, the hospital existed in two departments (the second was in Popov’s house described above). He was transferred here from a building that had belonged to him since Peter’s time on the Vyborg side. In 1898, an extension was made over the central part of the house for the chief doctor's apartment. It did not contradict the architecture of the building, fitting into its composition. The harmony was subsequently disrupted when this superstructure was extended along the entire length of the western wing and the building became asymmetrical. The hospital grounds continued to south direction along the avenue: it is marked by a stone fence facing it, behind which is Pelevin’s wooden house, built in the 1st quarter of the 19th century. It retained classic proportions, but all architectural details were lost during renovations. An interesting element is the deep loggia in the central part of the first floor. The next house of the U-shaped composition, with a deep cour d'honneur occupied by a garden and outbuildings overlooking the red line of the embankment, is the Nikolaevsky Women's School 38 Peterhof Road (164 Fontanka River Embankment). At the end of the 1810s. on this site there was a house occupied by a noble boarding house at the Pedagogical Institute, where the future composer M.I. studied. Glinka and taught by such famous teachers as A.P. Kunitsyn and A.I. Galich. In 1822, the house of the merchant Ott, which stood on the site, was purchased to house the almshouse of the Orphanage, which moved here after reconstruction by the architect D. Quadri. The building has a modest decoration, but its U-shaped composition, proportions and details are characteristic of the classicist style. In 1867-1906. it housed the Nikolaev Women's School, and in 1914 it was transferred to a neighboring hospital. After the revolution, there was an orphanage here. Following it is a long two-story building with a high arch in the center, closed by magnificent cast gates and crowned with a plastic lock-bracket - the “secret” Kalinka Hospital (166 Fontanka River Embankment). Its history goes back to the already mentioned linen factory - the Spinning House. During their travel abroad In Amsterdam, Peter saw a spinning factory that also served as a women's correctional facility, after which he set up a similar one in St. Petersburg. Here Dutch craftsmen were supposed to teach women of easy virtue “to make good and fine fabric in the Dutch manner.” Among Peter’s notes there is a short note: “About the women needed at the Ekateringof linen factory.” In 1724, 139 people worked at the factory, and among the spinners there were 57 freemen and 10 “slaves”. French traveler O. de la Motre in 1726 recorded how two women, after being punished with a whip, “were sent to weave and spin hemp at a new linen manufactory founded by Peter I about three miles from here, where the Dutch of both sexes were assigned to manage and teach the Russians make good, fine fabric in the Dutch manner.” The stone building was built in 1720 according to the design of the architect N.F. Gerbel. Its appearance is known from the engravings of P. Shtelin: it is a long two-story building with a lowered ground floor, enlivened by the belfry of the church founded in it a year later. After an unsuccessful attempt to transfer the unprofitable factory into private hands in 1727, it was closed, and its building in 1734 was transferred to the Izmailovsky Life Guards Regiment to house the office and archive. However, in 1745, by decree of Empress Elizabeth Petrovna, the factory was reopened. A year later, girls from the secret “fun house” of a certain Dresdensch were placed here (this case received wide publicity at that time), and in 1750 a police decree was issued about “the capture and delivery to the Kalinkinsky house of all obscene women and girls...” . The factory finally became a correctional institution for women of “depraved behavior.” In 1779, instead of a factory, a medical institution was established - a “secret” hospital for patients with venereal diseases. The dilapidated Peter the Great building was dismantled and a new one with 60 beds was erected on its foundations. Compositionally, it resembled the previous one (it was two-story and elongated), but had a slightly different architecture: the facades were divided by blades, panels were arranged between the windows, and the center was accentuated by a brace with an attic. In general, the appearance of the house, built in 1781-1782, was quite severe, which corresponded to its specific function. On the plots belonging to the hospital, south of the main building from Fontanka to Obvodny Canal 39 and on the opposite side of Libavsky Lane, houses for staff, a pharmacy and a number of auxiliary buildings were erected. During the reign of Nicholas I, the hospital complex was reconstructed. In 1830-1833 in the depths of the main site according to the design of the architect L.I. Charlemagne the 2nd, a large new classicist building was erected - a good example of the “official” architecture of the Nicholas era,” other buildings were erected. At the same time, the old building along the Fontanka was reconstructed and its facades were improved - the blades and panels disappeared, the above-mentioned arch with gate wings, an attic appeared and sandriks above the windows in the central part of the building housed the apartments of hospital employees. The hospital existed until 1930, after which a research institute was located in its buildings. The hospital complex has been well preserved to this day. Its composition is based on a square courtyard with a garden and a fountain, bounded from the north and south by the old and main buildings, and from the west and east by the buildings of the former pharmacy and gynecological department. On the western side of Libavsky Lane there are buildings of a former outpatient clinic, a chapel with a mortuary and a laundry (house no. 3). This quarter is very interesting historically: the mentioned cemetery and the legendary Peter the Great's chapel were located here, and in the late 1750s. a state-owned cattle yard was established, on the territory of which a wooden church of St. was erected for the sick in 1778. Catherine. It was located here until 1847 and was the predecessor of the stone one, later built on Staro-Peterhofsky Avenue. And in this area, the successor to the wooden church was the above-mentioned mortuary chapel, built in 1850. Kalinkinskaya Hospital (old building along the Fontanka embankment). Photo 2000 40 Peterhof Road Spy Palace and Kalinkinsky Spinning House. Reproduction from an engraving by P. Shtelin. 1760s The development front along the Fontanka embankment within the block consists of two apartment buildings, between which there is a complex of former industrial buildings of the Building Stone Processing Society and the Northern Commercial and Industrial Joint Stock Company. Behind it begin the industrial buildings of the Novo-Admiralteysky plant. At the beginning of the 20th century. the embankments served as a kind of transshipment port. Eyewitnesses recall: “You look from the Kalinkin Bridge down the Fontanka - a whole forest of masts with intertwined rigging. Bowsprits Life pr

The Peterhof Road turned three centuries old in the summer, but they decided to widely celebrate this event in the fall - so that city residents would return from their dachas and take part in such an unusual and, perhaps, first-time celebration.

The Peterhof Road turned three centuries old in the summer, but they decided to widely celebrate this event in the fall - so that city residents would return from their dachas and take part in such an unusual and, perhaps, first-time holiday. They celebrated widely - with a shot from an ancient cannon, a theatrical street procession from Ekateringofsky Park to Alexandrin. Probably, the birthday celebration of the Peterhof Road will become another St. Petersburg tradition.

In St. Petersburg, no one probably knows more about the Peterhof Road than its researcher, the author of a number of books and articles about this unique transport artery, and the chairman of the St. Petersburg branch of the International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS) Sergei Gorbatenko.

Sergei Borisovich talks about the Peterhof Road as if he himself had seen its entire history - day after day, step by step. It is from him, who not only paid tribute to the archives, but also walked and traveled the entire Peterhof road, that you will learn details about a unique historical figure - Prince Yuri Fedorovich Shakhovsky, who, on the instructions of Peter, headed a commission in 1710 to divide the southern coast of the Gulf of Finland into sections, thereby laying the foundation for the Peterhof Road: “Shakhovskoy is a descendant of the Rurikovichs, bore the title of “neighbor boyar.” Peter entrusted him with the post of head of the military police of Russia, but at the same time, it was Shakhovskaya who was called “Archdeacon Gideon” in Peter’s notorious “The Most Drunken and Most Jolly Cathedral”, and yet even Peter himself held a lower rank in this “cathedral” - he was a protodeacon...”

Now, if there are no traffic jams, a car or minibus covers the distance from the nearest metro stations, leaving Stachek Avenue and proceeding to Oranienbaum in about thirty to forty minutes. Once upon a time, a journey along the Peterhof road began from the Post Office and lasted almost three hours. Crews set off at the end of the 18th century from 8 am. And the trip cost a ruble twenty-five kopecks...

Almost three centuries later, we can see only fragments of the former splendor of the road - here at 20 Staro-Peterhofsky Prospect, the dacha of Alexander Stroganov, and here at Stachek, 186, there is a church rebuilt from the dacha of Roman Vorontsov. In Sosnovaya Polyana, everyone knows Novoznamenka - the house of Mikhail Vorontsov, built in the 1750s by Domenico Trezzini.

Novoznamenka. The large manor house built by Domenico Trezzini is the decoration of Sosnovaya Polyana. Photo from satu.ucoz.ru

The building of Vorontsov’s dacha is now a church in the name of Faith, Hope, Love and their mother Sophia. Photo by Sergei Gorbatenko

There is a lot to see on the Peterhof Road. In the Kiryanovo estate, which is closely associated with the name of Princess Dashkova, in addition to the registry office and various institutions, a branch of the Narvskaya Zastava museum has been opened since 2005 - it, in particular, exhibits wonderful models of Ekateringof Park, the Rolling Slide pavilion in Oranienbaum, objects life and costumes of townspeople of the 19th - 20th centuries. Here you will be told in detail about the dachas - estates on the Peterhof road.

The registry office of the Kirov region has been located in the country estate of Princess Dashkova “Kiryanovka” for many years. Photo from community.livejournal.com

The gates of the Stroganovs' dacha on Staro-Peterhofsky Avenue. Photo from the site kravchenko.narod.ru

Prepared by Galina ARTEMENKO

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Peter ordered the distribution of plots along the Peterhof road to his associates and representatives of prominent noble families resettled in new capital. In total, about a hundred dachas appeared along the road, which in the following centuries grew and developed, changing their owners. Among them are the dachas of the Naryshkins, Vorontsovs, Vyazemskys, Chicherins, Trubetskoys and many other famous families. And against this brilliant background, three main palace and park complexes stood out - Peter’s Strelna, Peterhof and Menshikov’s Oranienbaum. This unique cultural landscape, consisting of manor houses, beautiful gardens and parks, merged into a single ensemble, stretched from old border St. Petersburg - Staro-Kalinkin Bridge to Krasnaya Gorka, along the entire coast of the Gulf of Finland. And now, along the entire length of the ancient road, a number of architectural and historical monuments have been preserved.

The ending is in tomorrow's issue of "VP"

This book is the first experience in studying the Peterhof road along its entire length. It is written in the genre of a guidebook and tells about the history of the construction of residences, estates and other attractions of the road, their location and owners. The review begins from the threshold of the road - from St. Petersburg Kolomna and Kalinkina Square and ends with Oranienbaum and the territories to the west of it.
The book contains many illustrations, plans and drawings, much of which is being published for the first time.

Year: 2001

Language: russian

Pages: 449

File: PDF, 59.13 MB

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S.B. GORBATENKO Peterhof Road Historical and architectural guidebook European House St. Petersburg 2001 Published with the support of the Open Society Institute (Soros Foundation) Russia ISBN 5-8015-0113-4 © SB. Gorbatenko, 2001 © “European House”, 2001 INTRODUCTION The Peterhof Road is not only a communication line stretching along the coast of the Gulf of Finland from St. Petersburg towards Krasnaya Gorka. First of all, this is a forty-kilometer system of seaside imperial residences and private estates, a chain of palaces, gardens and parks, which may have no equal in the world. In the history of Russian culture, the Peterhof Road occupies a special place, primarily because all the many estates that make up it arose almost simultaneously, as a result of the royal decree. The Primorskaya highway provided them with the ability to perceive them in motion, in all the variety of changing pictures and a wealth of impressions. The Peterhof Road is the embodiment of the “regularity” inherent in St. Petersburg, the triumph of urban planning regulation. It was built on the basis of a module - a standard plot of land measuring 100 fathoms along the route and 1000 fathoms from it inland (213x2130 m). The configuration of these areas is unusual: on the plans they resemble the keys of a giant piano. Evenly spaced estate complexes, interrupted by the powerful dominants of the imperial residences, set a clear rhythm for the unfolding panorama of the coast. The dachas were famous for the splendor of their architecture and the luxury of their gardens. Among their owners and tenants were representatives of the capital's highest society - statesmen, diplomats, high-ranking officials, generals and naval commanders, bankers and aristocrats. At the same time, along with the ensembles of estates facing the road, the estates had their own farms and profitable establishments - farms, orchards, greenhouses, inns, zucchini. Some included villages - and the landscape was complemented by peasant fields and meadows. The Peterhof Road, founded by Peter I in 1710, is actually the same age as St. Petersburg. But if the historical center of St. Petersburg, in the eyes of our contemporaries, retained its image of the “northern capital” - the focus of ensembles of world significance, then the Peterhof Road (as well as many other unique historical landscapes of the city’s environs) turned out to be represented only by some of the most famous palace and park ensembles. The once integral landscape and urban planning system of the metropolitan agglomeration has now collapsed; the onslaught of the city damages the aesthetics of the landscape, the most valuable estate ensembles, which were once a symbol of the harmonious coexistence of man and nature. An attempt to assess the significance of the Peterhof road was made back in the middle of the 18th century. the first historian of St. Petersburg A.I. Bogdanov (his manuscript containing the corresponding chapter was published only in 1903)1. At the end of the 19th century, the first comprehensive study of the Peterhof road by M.I. appeared. Pylyaev, which made up most of his work “The Forgotten Past of the Neighborhood of St. Petersburg”2. The narrative is conveyed only to Oranienbaum and is overloaded with details from the life of the owners, often anecdotal. Many estates are missing, and a lot of erroneous information is given. However, this book undoubtedly played an important role in awakening public interest in this topic. The first researcher to devote a monograph to the Peterhof road was P.N. Table1 Titov AL. Addition to the historical, geographical and topographical description of St. Petersburg. from 1751 to 1762, composed by A. Bogdanov. St. Petersburg.. 1903. P. 108-122. 2 Pylyaev M.I. The forgotten past of the outskirts of St. Petersburg. St. Petersburg, 1889 (reprint - St. Petersburg, 1994). pp. 111-392. 4 Peterhof road 1 Pyansky. The book is based primarily on bibliographic sources, primarily materials from the St. Petersburg Gazette and other newspapers of the 18th-19th centuries. The value of P.N.’s work Stolpyansky reduces the common with M.I. Pylyaev's vice is a penchant for telling jokes. After the publication of this book, publications about the Peterhof road did not appear for a long time. It was not until 1953 that a study by T.B. was published. Dubyago about Peter’s estates in the vicinity of St. Petersburg, which used a significant number of previously unknown 2 documents about the Peterhof road. At the same time, an article by Yu.M. was published. Denisov about the estate of K.E. Siversa3. In the mid-1960s. a number of articles by O.A. appeared Chekanova, dedicated to the history, analysis of composition and problems of using ensembles of the Peterhof road4. Section “Palace and park ensembles of the Peterhof road”, briefly outlining the history of Strelna, the Trinity-Sergius Hermitage, Mikhailovka, Znamenka. His own dacha, Sergievka (and for some reason Ropsha), was included in A.G.’s book. Raskin and D.A. Kucharians about the suburbs of Leningrad5. Monuments of wooden architecture at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries. on the southern coast of the Gulf of Finland dedicated his article to I.Yu. Polenov6. In recent years, local historian D.A. has worked on the topic of the Peterhof Road. Aminov, who did a lot to popularize its monuments, in particular, by publishing a series of historical essays in the newspaper “Evening Petersburg”7. Interesting newspaper articles are written by N. Paravyana8. The main content of scientific publications by V.A. Korentsvita - the history of Peter’s estates on the territory of the former Znamenka and Alexandria, primarily Menshikov’s Monkurazh9. A number of our works are devoted to the history and problems of protecting the Peterhof road, including a monograph dedicated to its Oranienbaum distance (see list of references). And yet, despite these studies, the history of the Peterhof road has not yet actually been written. There are no monographs completed at the level of modern scientific requirements even on the world-famous ensembles of Peterhof and Oranienbaum, Strelna and 1 Stolpyansky P.N. Peterhof prospect. Historical sketch. St. Petersburg, 1923. Dubyago T.B. Estates of Peter's time in the vicinity of St. Petersburg // Architectural Heritage. 1953. No. 4. P. 125-129. Subsequently, this material, with some additions, was included in the book: Dubyago T.B. Russian regular gardens and parks. L., 1963. S. 192-199. 3 Denisov Yu.M. 18th century estate on the Peterhof road // Architectural Heritage. 1953. No. 4. P. 148-154. 4 Chekanova O.A. 1) Development of the Peterhof road in the first quarter of the 18th century // Questions of architecture and graphics. Reports of the XXII scientific conference LISI. L., 1964. S. 59-62; 2) Principles of planning in the development of the Peterhof road in the middle of the 19th century // Questions of theory, history and practice of architecture and urban planning. Reports to the XXIII scientific conference LISI. L., 1965. S. 42-45; 3) On the issue of the development of free compositions in Russian architecture of the mid-19th century. (using the example of the Peterhof road) // Architecture. Reports to the first scientific conference of young civil engineering scientists LISI. L., 1965. S. 62-74; 4) Some issues of modern use of palace and park complexes on the former Peterhof road // Architecture and urban planning. Reports of the XXIV scientific conference LISI. L., 1966. pp. 33-35. 2 5 Kyugarians YES.. Raskin A.G. Suburbs of Leningrad. L., 1985. pp. 128-159. Polenov I.Yu. Wooden architecture of the southern coast of the Gulf of Finland 1860-1917. // Questions of history, theory and practice of architecture. L., 1985. pp. 108-116. 7 Aminov D.A. Along the old Peterhof road // Evening Petersburg. 1994. September 27 - October 25. 8 For example: Paravyan N. Dachas with a strange name // Evening Leningrad. 1990. June 28. 9 Korentsvit V.A. 1) Dachas on the Peterhof Road // Leningrad Panorama. 1988. No. 4. P. 35-37: 2) The Last Palace of A.D. Menshikov “Moncourage” // Cultural Monuments: New Discoveries. 1988. M., 1989. P. 396-412; 3) On the history of the development of seaside dachas along the Peterhof road during the reign of Peter I // Cultural monuments: New discoveries. 1991. M., 1997. pp. 374-388. 6 Introduction to 5 other grand ducal residences. Comprehensive studies, with the exception of the outdated works of Pylyaev and Stolpyansky, do not exist at all. Many estates and entire distances of the Peterhof road remain completely unknown to both scientists and representatives of the administration and the inhabitants of these places, being destroyed before their eyes, and often with their participation. Without any interest or respect for the past, valuable historical and cultural landscapes are being re-developed and archaeological monuments are being destroyed. First of all, the estates that are “forgotten” by historians and the public suffer - so. Now on the verge of destruction, the stone palace of Peter the Great's time in the Roshchinskoye estate behind Oranienbaum, which belonged to the Russian Chancellor Count G.I. Golovkin. That is why we pay here “small” objects almost more attention than the famous ensembles of Peterhof and Oranienbaum. This book is intended to tell about the history of construction and architecture of residences, estates and other attractions of the Peterhof road, to identify them - to determine the location, surviving elements, to trace the change of owners. All this should help their further study, the adoption of measures for protection and revival. To solve our problems, we used all available sources, archival and bibliographic. First of all, these are inventories of dachas along the Peterhof road, archival funds of state institutions and personal, cartographic materials of the 18th-19th centuries. A particularly important role was played by the boundary plans of the dachas of the 18th-19th centuries. Materials from large-scale topographic surveys have been used since the 1930s. to modern ones, on the basis of which the identification of lost and surviving architectural elements was made. Finally, the area itself was carefully studied along the Peterhof road. But a lot of sources (for example, newspaper advertisements or documents from the funds of the Moscow Russian State Archive of Ancient Acts, from the personal funds of dacha owners) remain unstudied and are waiting for their researchers. The specifics of the summer life of estates and residences, festive and everyday, as well as towns, palace settlements and villages located along the road are almost not reflected in the guidebook. This is a topic for a separate study. Biographical information about the owners is minimal (they can be found in special dictionaries and reference books). Unfortunately, the guidebook genre does not allow us to provide the information we provide with links to sources. Therefore, we are forced to limit ourselves to a general overview of them, as well as a list of references. The main principle of the guidebook is topographical. The review begins from the threshold of the Peterhof road - St. Petersburg Kolomna and Kalinkina Square. From here we move along the historical route - along Staro-Petergofsky Avenue, Stachek Avenue, Petergofskoye Highway, St. Petersburg Avenue in Petrodvorets, Oranienbaumskoye Highway, Palace Avenue in Lomonosov, Krasnoflotskoye Highway. The only deviation is the “return” from Avtov to Ekateringof to look at the Emelyanovskaya coastal road parallel to Peterhof. According to the chosen direction of movement, the terms “right” and “left” sides of the road (avenue, highway) are used. When indicating the relative location of estates according to the cardinal points, the road is conventionally taken to be in the east-west direction (except for rare sections where it slopes to the southeast, such as, for example, immediately after the Obvodny Canal or in Avtova). House numbers given without street designation refer to elements of the main route. The dates of the chronological countdown of the history of estates at different distances are different, which is associated both with the circumstances of their origin and with the dating of the first inventory at our disposal. Therefore, dachas in the area between Narva Square and Krasny Zucchini are considered starting from 1762, from Krasny Zucchini to Peterhof, as a rule, from 1714, from Peterhof - from 1719. In rare cases, earlier dates are given (if they are confirmed documented). 6 Peterhof Road Not in all cases it was possible to find out the exact dates of the transfer of dachas from one owner to another. The names of many have not been established at all, and some of the known ones could not be “linked” to specific estates. Identification was complicated by the fact that many, especially foreign, names in documents were extremely distorted, and some even in the middle of the 19th century. are given in several versions. In order to clearly identify estates and other architectural complexes, it was necessary to give them names (only a few and, as a rule, the most famous of them, such as Alexandrino or Kiryanovo, have “established” names). It was necessary to select a worthy “candidate” from the list of owners to name the estate by his last name. This task turned out to be important and difficult due to the lack of information on construction history: most often it is not known under which owner the composition of the estate was formed, and the stages of its formation, which usually relate to different owners, have not been studied. The principle of choosing the first or last owner also turned out to be inappropriate: the former often owned the estate for a short time or used it only for economic purposes, the latter often broke the dacha into small plots and sold them, causing the death of the estate. Many families had several dachas, at different times or simultaneously, and to avoid confusion it was often necessary to name estates by the names of less significant owners. As a result, when giving names to ensembles and complexes, we were guided by the following criteria (in descending order of their importance): - a stable naming tradition; - duration of ownership of the estate; - the owner’s contribution to the formation of the ensemble’s composition; - uniqueness of the name; - historical role and significance of the owner; - attribution I.-G. Georgi; - euphony, ease of memorization and pronunciation. To facilitate identification, the initials of the owners were entered only in extreme cases. In the text, the names of the owners, according to whom the estates and architectural complexes are named, as well as the names of settlements and industrial enterprises, are in italics. In conclusion, it is necessary to clarify the concepts of manor, dacha, estate, estate often used here. The first two mean both land ownership and a residential complex, but the manor - a term common in the Baltics and Finland - is applied both to the ceremonial ensemble of the manor house and to the complex of the modest house of the manager - the “manor house”. Manors were the main economic units in Ingria in the 17th - early 18th centuries. The term “dacha”, derived from the word “to give”, in the 18th century. meant a land grant. In this work it is used primarily in this meaning. This term began to be applied to country houses intended for recreation mainly in the 19th century. “Estate” is primarily hereditary land ownership. And finally, the estate is an architectural complex of a manor house on an estate or in a country house. Compositionally connected with the park, it forms a manor or palace and park ensemble with it. In addition, we sometimes use terms from the 1st quarter of the 18th century: “place”, which means a standard 100-square-foot plot of land, as well as “seaside yard” - an estate along the Peterhof road. FOUNDATION AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE PETERHOF ROAD Background “...The coast from St. Petersburg to Oranienbaum and beyond... presents a lively picture. In this area, at almost every mile there are palaces, manors and beautiful figured houses, surrounded by gardens, groves and, one might say, artificial fields and meadows. Who would have believed a hundred years before that this barren land could take on its present form? But God was pleased to grant Russia a number of great Sovereigns, and nature yielded to Their almighty will: the sad desert turned into a rich populated country, swamps formed bright reservoirs, dark forests became pleasure groves, meadows and fields appeared on the flowing sand, art gave a hand to hard work. ..” This enthusiastic review of the Peterhof Road, its assessment as the result and visible embodiment of the cultural efforts of the Russian state is one of many dedicated to it in letters, diaries, and memoirs of contemporaries. The system of estates along the Peterhof Road stretches along the southern coast of the Neva Bay - the eastern part of the Gulf of Finland. Of great importance in its composition is the geological littorina ledge, which, barely visible in the area of ​​the Red Cemetery, reaches a height of 10-12 m in the Peterhof area. This is the shore of the Littorina and then the Ancient Baltic Sea, which existed here several thousand years ago. The ledge serves as a huge stylobate for the palaces placed on its edge. The ravines cutting through it were blocked by dams and turned into ponds; the waters accumulated in them fell in cascades, feeding water cannons and fountains. Grottoes and terraces were built on the slopes. Many ensembles had two gardens - “upper” and “lower”. This division was also determined by the littorina ledge. Over the millennium that preceded the transformation of the coast of Neva Bay into a huge “ensemble of ensembles,” it repeatedly served as the site of military clashes between the Russian and Swedish states, mass relocations, and was subjected to devastation. This, combined with the harsh climate, did not contribute to the formation of large settlements and stable cultural landscapes. The most ancient population of the southern coast of the Gulf of Finland includes the Baltic-Finnish Izhora people, the last representatives of which still live here. To the south and west lived the Vodi tribe, whose settlements were located mostly on the Izhora plateau. During the colonization of these lands by Veliky Novgorod, representatives of indigenous peoples were converted to Orthodoxy, and Russians settled next to them. Izhora villages located on the territory of the Vvedensky Dudorovsky churchyard of the Vodskaya Pyatina are listed in the scribe books of the 16th century. Unfortunately, in the overwhelming majority of cases they cannot be reliably identified with the known settlements of subsequent eras. However, during the period of Swedish rule, after, under the terms of the Stolbovo Peace Treaty of 1617, 8 Peterhof Road Izhora land came under the jurisdiction of Sweden and became known as Ingria, detailed military and cadastral topographic surveys were carried out here. They give a comprehensive picture of the land holdings, settlements and landscapes of the Dudergofsky (former Dudorovsky) churchyard and, in particular, its coastal strip, which stretched from the present Ligov to Krasnaya Gorka. In 1622-1624. The owner of the Duderhof churchyard was Johan Schütte (1577-1645), an outstanding statesman of Sweden, mentor of King Gustav II Adolf, since 1629 governor-general of Livonia, Ingermanland and Karelia, curator of Uppsala and founder of Tartu universities. For his services, he received the Duderhof churchyard and the title of Baron Duderhof. The churchyard became a barony, hereditarily belonging to the Schutte family. Swedish maps show a developed system of settlements located on the edge of a coastal ledge, at the foot of which the seaside road, the future Peterhof Road, ran. In the area between the current Krasnenkiy cemetery and Ligov, it merged with the large Narva road. At other distances it was a simple country road connecting coastal villages. To the south of the road, forests and swamps stretched all the way to the Izhora ledge. Rare villages were located only on hills - as an example, Papingondo (later Babi Gon) can be cited. Coastal settlements, sometimes consisting of 5-6 households, but more often of 1-2, were mainly farmsteads of Finnish peasants resettled here after the local population began to leave en masse for Russia. Farmsteads formed groups of “bushes” separated by undeveloped territories. Each settlement had established land boundaries drawn transverse to the road. On the coastal territory there were mainly meadows, and on the upper terrace there were arable lands. In the center of the coastal zone of the Duderhof churchyard there was a parish center with a Lutheran church and a parsonage (present-day Martyshkino), on the eastern and western “flanks” there were the Strelna and Azikala manors. Here and there there were taverns along the road. Swedish manors, as a rule, were not noble estates: the owners of the estates did not have the habit of vacationing or living in Ingria - a remote and underdeveloped province of the Swedish state, which existed under the constant threat of Russian attack. In many cases they owned estates in the metropolis. Ingria estates were primarily profitable, and manors were the courtyards of the inhabitants of Ingria with the tools of their labor. officials responsible for collecting taxes Cartouche map of the Duderhof churchyard. 1667 gov. The architecture was uncomplicated. Foundation and development of Peterhof Road 9 Swedish manor on the southern coast of the Neva Bay. A fragment of an engraving depicting the attack of the Swedish fleet on the island of Kotlin in 1705 and, apparently, not much different from a peasant dwelling: as available images indicate, such a yard, in addition to the wooden main house, included small orchards, barnyards, and fish cages. The same can be said about parsonages and other clergy yards. The only exceptions were Lutheran churches, basilicas with high bell towers, which dominated the local landscape. The first historian of St. Petersburg A.I. Bogdanov, explaining the origin of the “seaside courtyards” along the Peterhof Road, saw in them a continuation of the traditions of the country noble estates of the Russian patrimony - places of permanent residence and economic establishments, summer recreation and entertainment. He wrote: “... since ancient times, all the nobles and all the nobility have within the state their own estates and estates, country houses, gardens, groves, forests and meadows, fish ponds and other lands, to which over time, exercising from business, they go for walks and clean air to those country houses and nearby estates in which there are numerous groves for the enjoyment of animal and bird catching, fish ponds, beautiful meadows for a nearby horse farm, gardens and vegetable gardens for collections of vegetables, barnyards for daily food, etc. .. Here (in St. Petersburg. - S.G.) tenacious, not having such lands in this reigning city, everyone about this, not without noble regret, was for the sake of His Majesty Peter the Great, as he pleased, as for the spread of this reigning city of the region by residence , so for the entire dominion, for the sake of entertainment and some small household provisions for success, His Majesty favored the convenient seaside places and islands available in the vicinity of this city, and along the banks of the Neva River, the local residents would distribute dachas of land to the entire dominion, on which country houses and gardens would be built , ponds and vegetable gardens into their eternal possession.” Peterhof Road 10 Idea of ​​Peter I However, according to Peter’s plan, the estates along the Peterhof Road were supposed to perform another very important function - “social and pedagogical”. First of all, the “yards” were seaside, designed to accustom Russians to seafaring, to make the seascape familiar to them, recent hermits of feudal estates protected by solid fences. The wide water panorama has become an integral and important part of the ensembles founded here. The southern coast of the Neva Bay was of exceptional importance for Peter. The new capital was actually cut off by shoals from the sea, access to which was the main goal of the Northern War. But the king dreamed of constantly having him before his eyes; Moreover, he wanted his subordinates to also experience this need. It is symbolic that Ekateringof, a seaside residence intended for Peter’s wife Catherine, was a memorial to the first naval victory over the Swedes. This generally insignificant military episode marked Russia's entry into the vastness of the Baltic. The boundary between two elements turned here, on the edge of Russia, into a symbolic boundary between two worlds - the “motionless” East and the dynamically developing West. To the north, facing the sea routes leading to Europe, the “seaside courts” of Peter’s entourage were supposed to look, many of whom, in the words of A.I. Bogdanov, “they had a tendency to live here in body, and in spirit in Moscow...” From the very beginning, the estates were conceived primarily as “pleasure” estates, serving for recreation and entertainment. Peter forced his subjects to relax “in the European manner” and use the achievements of European architecture and the art of park construction when constructing their dachas, and at the same time created with their help the ceremonial sea “facade” of Ingria. A traveler arriving in St. Petersburg by sea landed on the island of Kotlin, then, as a rule, sailed to Oranienbaum and then followed the coast to the capital. Thus, the first impression of the new country was formed right here, on the coastal road. The path from the Estate along the banks of the Vecht River. Map of the beginning XVIII century Foundation and development of Peterhof Road 11 Gunterstein estate on Vechta. Engraving. 1690 Western Europe by land, as before, lay along the Narva road, in the Ligov area also “connected” to the Peterhof road. Peter I's love for Holland, in particular for its gardens, is well known, which visibly confirmed man's capabilities in transforming scarce natural landscapes, turning them into flourishing fertile lands - and on the scale of the entire country. Peter I set the same task of creating a landscape “paradise” on the shores of Ingria. Holland in his eyes was a geographical model of the area of ​​St. Petersburg. But, as it turned out, in this country the tsar borrowed not only the compositional techniques of architecture and garden art, but also the landscape and urban planning principle of linear systems of estates located in a row along water channels that formed the basis of the Peterhof road. In one of Peter’s notebooks we find a mysterious reminder: “About drawings of courtyards along the Utrecht Canal...” We are talking about the famous country estates that belonged to wealthy Dutch burghers and stretched along the banks of the Vecht River between Utrecht and Muiden. For the first time, the king followed this route to the town of Nieusleiz and further along the canal on August 7, 1696. Many years later, in 1716, he recommended repeating it to his wife: “... from Wesel by water down the Rhine (Rhine. - S.G.) to the canal, and by the canal through Utrecht to Amsterdam...” Russian Ambassador to Holland B.I. Kurakin wrote in his diary in 1706: “And at 12 Peterhof Road, the Vekhtlit Estate. Built in 1665, reconstructed in the 18th century. Photo from 2000, the passage from Amsterdam to Utrecht is much nicer: many handsome houses in the Italian style, chambers and gardens are planted... also multiplied by fountains...” And indeed, this is exactly the picture that was painted by those published in the 18th century. uvrages, including numerous types of estates - located both along the Vecht and between Amsterdam and Haarlem, Haarlem and The Hague. The engravings also depict the residences of Stadtholder William of Orange, including the palace and park of Het Loo, Riswick near The Hague, visited by Peter I, and “Petersburg”, built by the Russian resident merchant H. Brant on the banks of the Vecht. Comparing these images with views of St. Petersburg estates, we discover many analogies. In their architecture, Russian “seaside houses” are extremely close to the “pleasure” houses of the Dutch burghers - just compare the estates of David Mendes or “Dornburg” on Vechta with Annenhof, Elizavetgof or the dacha of U. Sinyavin, which stood on the territory of present-day Znamenka. As in Holland, it was planned to lay canals along the coast of Neva Bay in order to bring water communications closer to the estates. However, the most striking example of the relationship between Russian and Dutch country estates is the linear nature of their location, a “modular” system repeated in Russia. However, the Peterhof Road acquired its unique character - primarily due to the peculiarities of the local natural landscape, so different from the mainland flat landscapes of Holland, where estate “garlands” stretched along narrow rivers and canals. The main thing that we have already talked about is the orientation of the Foundation and development of the Peterhof road 13 ensembles to the sea bay, which immediately gave them the colossal spatial scale inherent in French classicist parks. True, the shallow waters of the Neva Bay created considerable difficulties for the construction of berths; In addition, the low bank was flooded with water during frequent floods. But at a distance of about 800 meters from the edge of the water, a steep slope began, ending with a second, upper terrace. An endless sea panorama opened up before the man standing at the ramp. In a letter from the French ambassador Campredon to his king, written in 1723 after visiting Peterhof, there are the following words: “Tsar. .. added that I would like Your Majesty to have the same wonderful view at Versailles as here, where on one side the sea opens with Kronstadt, on the other Petersburg is visible.” The presence of a high ledge, as already indicated, created another advantage: buildings placed on its edge acquired impressiveness and even grandeur. The ravines that carved the slope provided the opportunity to construct ponds, cascades and other water features. In the depths of the plots there was a forest - “harvesting” for future parks. We have only one direct testimony from a contemporary about the plans of Peter I regarding the Peterhof road - it is true that he arrived in St. Petersburg only on March 14, 1721, but was well aware of the plans of the tsar and enjoyed his great confidence. This is Burchard-Christopher Minich, to whom Peter showed the Peterhof road a few days after his arrival, on March 23, 1721. In 1746, being exiled to Pelym, in a letter to Empress Elizabeth Petrovna Minich promised, in the event of his return, “to make sure that the fifty-verst area from Oranienbaum... up to St. Petersburg was completely covered with houses of pleasure, gardens, fountains and cascades, swimming pools and reservoirs, parks and fun paths, etc., and all this according to the good design of Peter the Great, which was left neglected after his death...” And from the further presentation it becomes clear that according to Peter’s plan, the strip of palaces and parks should have extended along the entire course of the Neva to the Ladoga Canal! Summing up his “points” outlining plans for the development of individual links of this grandiose chain, Minikh wrote: “In a word, so that from Kronstadt to Ladoga on the Volkhov River... the entire space of 220 miles would be covered with cities, castles, palaces, pleasure grounds and country houses houses, gardens, parks, etc.” Until 1709, while the danger of Swedish raids remained (the last of them took place in 1708), the creation of new country estates, and especially residences, was out of the question. On the contrary, it was at this time that redoubts appeared on the seaside road - near the Teltnis farm (the future village of Tenteleva), at the intersection with the river. Red, near the branch of the Narva road. However, already in 1706, the “interpreter” Semyon Ivanov was granted the Red Zucchini for his numerous services - later one of the most famous points on the Peterhof road. 1706 and 1708 important “environmental” decrees date back to the description of forests along the southern shore of the Neva Bay and the establishment of a protected area from St. Petersburg to Krasnaya Gorka. The fact that one of the motivating motives for creating a system of estates along the Peterhof Road was the Tsar’s desire to establish a regime of individual responsibility of owners for the preservation of the forest plot entrusted to them, is also evidenced by subsequent decrees - dated February 1, 1720 “On the non-cutting of forests between 14 Peterhof Road and Peterhof and Ligovoy in coastal areas" and the second, dated June 20, 1721, confirming this regime, but from the mouth of the Neva to Varivaldai. After the Poltava victory, in the fall of 1709, the tsar, having visited the city, left a decree, which, in particular, ordered “to build your own funny stone houses with a fair amount of architectural work, to decorate vegetable gardens...”. Undoubtedly, “funny houses” meant country estates. However, no work on the cultural development of the outskirts of St. Petersburg could begin until Vyborg was taken - an outpost from where enemy raids usually began. It was besieged on March 21, 1710, and on May 26 and 27, during the siege, Peter was already considering plans for residences in Peterhof and Strelna. In September the city was taken. In the same year, Riga, Revel and a number of other fortresses fell, including the center of Karelia, Kexholm. At the same time, intensive construction work began in Peterhof (Popovaya Manor) with the laying of a stone palace. On January 13, 1711, setting off on the Prut campaign, Peter I gave A.D. Menshikov an order for construction in St. Petersburg and the surrounding area, which provided for the continuation of work at the Popova Manor, the laying of Ekateringof, and the construction of a yard “for the arrival” in Strelna. In the same year Oranienbaum was founded. The construction of the Peterhof road under Peter I The Peterhof road was preceded by two Swedish ones: a minor coastal one, connecting coastal villages and farmsteads, and another, most important for the main city of Ingermanland, Nyena, connecting it with Narva and the Baltic provinces - Estland and Livonia. It ran along the route of the present Tallinn Highway, Marshal Zhukov Avenue (along Polezhaevsky Park), Stachek Avenue, Avtovskaya Street, in the direction of Ligovsky and Suvorovsky Avenues, reaching the Neva near the mouth of the Okhta, where the Nyenschanz fortress was located. At the beginning of the 18th century. this road was called Koporskaya. Before the appearance of the Kalinkin Bridge, the road between Krasny Zucchini and Fontanka remained a simple country road to the “bush” of villages at the confluence of Tarakanovka and the Fontanka. Its importance increased with the founding of Ekateringof, Annenhof and Elizavetgof, but throughout Peter’s period people traveled to Ekateringof along the Koporskaya, and then along the Tsarskoye Selo roads and along the “prospect” cut through before it, and then along the coastal Emelyanovskaya road (Peter preferred to get here by water and, perhaps that’s why he didn’t build the bridge). The formation of the Peterhof Road as a system of estates began in July-August 1710, when the fate of Vyborg was already decided. By decree of Peter I, Prince Yu.F. Shakhovskaya with “comrades” Yu.F. Shcherbatov, P.V. Buturlin, S O. Chebyshev and JV. Neledinsky “described and measured the land and forest for country yards.” The starting point was Peterhof, which was under construction: “to the Popovaya Manor to the House of the Tsar's Majesty” 1227 fathoms were measured along the coast. According to measurements taken in July, the strip from Popovaya Manor to Krasnaya Gorka was divided into 141 hundred planted sections. In August, the distance from Popovaya Manor to the mouth of the Neva was divided into 115 sections. Foundation and development of the Peterhof road 15 The designed areas had 500 fathoms from the coast into the interior of the territory. The descriptions made by the commission included information about the quality of the land and forest, the presence of villages and fields, rivers, streams and ravines. Particularly noted were oaks - the favorite trees of Peter I. The boundaries of the plots were marked with pillars - one was placed near the coast, the other at the “rear end”. The earliest information about the allocation of plots dates back to December 1710, when documents for ownership - “data” - were received by Tsarina Marfa Matveevna, her brother Admiral F.M. Apraksin and Prince Yu.F. Shcherbatov with his son. Let us cite, as an example, as a typical text, the text of “this” F.M. Apraksin: “In the summer of December 1710... by personal... decree, a place was given for a country yard in the eternal possession of Admiral... Count Fyodor Matveevich Apraksin in the tract, driving from St. Petersburg along the seashore to Krasnaya Gorka, not reaching Strelina Manor from the large coastal road up the mountain on the Mitkazi river on the right side... and that place is a hundred fathoms in diameter, the length from the seaside road along the Mitkazy river up the mountain is a thousand fathoms... and in addition to the above measure against the same place from the large coastal road straight to the sea of ​​forests and all kinds of land given to the sea...” As we see, the size of the plots increased significantly: now they had a length of 1000 fathoms, and not from the shore, but from the coastal road, and included the corresponding part of the coastal strip. This “module” became the main one for the system throughout the subsequent period of its existence. The distribution of plots was carried out mainly in the next two years. Thus, on January 3, 1711, the chief secretary of the Military Collegium A.Ya. received the dacha. Volkov, January 11 - Cabinet Secretary of Peter I A.B. Makarov, April 20, 1712 - steward P.I. Buturlin, May 25 this year - ensign of the Life Guards Preobrazhensky Regiment P.M. Koshelev. According to a certificate issued in 1800 by the archive of “old cases”, in 1712 Peter I, by his personal decree, ordered Yu.F. Shakhovsky to distribute along the Peterhof road “to different persons lands for country yards,” which were distributed to them “in equal numbers.” Therefore, we can assume that after the isolated awards of 1710-1711. in 1712, a massive distribution of plots was carried out. By 1714, almost all of the “seaside dachas” had found owners. In the same year, under the leadership of engineer-colonel A. de Coulomb, their first survey was carried out. Its necessity was probably a consequence of the imperfection of the layout of 1710, as well as the desire to organize the coastal landscape along the road connecting the capital and the newly created port city on the island of Kotlin. An inventory of plots compiled by de Coulomb has been preserved, indicating their sizes and names of owners. It covers the distance from Peterhof to Krasny Zucchini: the areas between the latter and St. Petersburg, by decree of 1718, went to the coachmen of the Vologda province for the establishment of their settlement. (The drawing drawn up in connection with this indicates that initially on this territory, along the Koporye road, there were also dachas of Peter’s close associates: Chebyshev, the Stroganov brothers, Skornyakov-Pisarev, Yaguzhinsky, Sinyavin, Golitsyn, Shepelev, as well as Tsarevich Alexei.) Well, Regarding the distance from Peterhof to Krasnaya Gorka, the inventory of 1714 contains a postscript: “And further from Peterhof there was no inventory from him, Kulon, since it was not written in the instructions for him.” Studying the inventory of 1714 allows us to judge the class composition of the first owners of dachas along the Peterhof Road. Among them were many members of the royal family, Peterhof Road 16 representatives of the administrative apparatus, high generals, officers of the guard, army and navy, court officials, people close to Peter I and enjoying his trust. Relatives' dachas were most often adjacent to each other. Two “seats” were listed as empty. The measured rhythm of the “ordinary” dachas was interrupted by the large royal dachas - Ekateringof, Ligovo of six hundred-planted “places”, the vast Strelna, which later included the dacha of A. Kikin, and, finally, Peterhof. These estates were “tied” to rivers, which created the possibility of constructing ponds necessary for the operation of cascades, fountains and other “water projects”: the element of water was the main artistic component of Peter’s estates. In July 1714, in connection with the start of the construction of “provincial” houses on Kotlin, Peter I allowed the commissioners appointed from the provinces to select sites for the construction of brick factories on the coast, including in places designated for “country courtyards.” Such factories arose between Strelna and Peterhof, as well as to the east and west of Oranienbaum. Most of them did not last long. Probably, in 1715, a project arose to lay a canal along the shore of the bay from the “seaside courtyard” of the priest Ivan Khrisanfovich Bitka to Strelna, where construction of the main state residence began at that time. Venetian hydraulic engineers under the leadership of D. Alimari participated in the construction; They were undoubtedly involved in the design of the above-mentioned canal. Shortly before leaving for his second big trip abroad, on January 5, 1716, Peter I left A.D. Menshikov’s “memory” with a list of works that needed to be done in his absence.. The list included the following item: “Where should the canal be from Krisanfov’s yard to Strelina so that this summer it will die out, how many sluices and other anstalt will there be (German: Anstalt - measures, preparations ) to that matter so that there will be no stop at a convenient time later” 1. However, the tsar’s main concern remained the construction of his own residences and private estates, without which it would have been impossible to form a new image of this very special highway. This is exactly how A.I. explains the appearance of a new inventory (“sheet”) of the Peterhof road. Bogdanov, who cites and analyzes it in his manuscript: “But just as then, since previous years, in this new metropolitan city, all the philistine buildings were built carelessly by everyone, so little care was taken about their country houses. For this reason, this testimonial inventory of these places from His Majesty was not made without reason, for all those places, given, apparently, after several years of passing, almost no construction was made in them, and although where it was started, almost nothing , - there was only one view.” Indeed, from the name of the “table” it follows that it was compiled with the aim of determining “what kind of structure is in these places and in which there is no structure and what voids...”. We have established that the “report card” is an extract from the “descriptive books” compiled in 1719 by Captain Zaborovsky. Soon, in 1721, a new inventory was made by Captain Ushakov (combined with Coulomb’s inventory, they were preserved in a copy of 1745). 1 It should be pointed out that the often quoted 9th paragraph of this instruction - “I earnestly ask, in order to diligently supervise the Peterhof road...” - is the result of an erroneous reproduction of the original document in the “Acts of Peter the Great” by I.I. Golikov, from where this text is usually borrowed. In the original document - “. ..on Petergov’s work...” Foundation and development of the Peterhof road 17 Analyzing the inventory of 1719, its compiler counted 29 undeveloped hundred-planted “places”, except for the “sovereign” ones, and with the latter - 43, which gave rise to the pessimistic conclusion of A.I. Bogdanov. However, apparently, Peter I did not envisage the construction of separate estates on each “place” by those owners who received several of them (for example, the Dolgorukovs had dachas consisting of three and four “places”, and B.P. . Sheremetev - out of seven!). A.D. Menshikov organized the only estate ensemble in Oranienbaum on five “places” that belonged to him. Peter himself acted in the same way on his vast estates of Peterhof, Strelna and Ligov, where large areas along the coast were empty, remaining “in reserve” or used for economic purposes. Thus, in 1719 there were only nine completely undeveloped dachas along the Peterhof road. By 1721 their number had been reduced to seven. This year's inventory in many cases records the expansion, improvement and appearance of new buildings on estates. So, on the estate of Admiral F.M. Apraksin “mansions were built according to the architecture” in addition to the previous structure. A.I. himself Bogdanov further admits that already during the reign of Peter I “many country houses were brought into a deliberate state, and more seaside ones...”. At the turn of the 1710-1720s. dachas along the Peterhof road became not only a “state duty”, but also a desirable acquisition. This, in particular, is evidenced by the request submitted in 1719 by the Russian ambassador to Holland and Austria A.A. Matveev: “The most powerful, all-merciful Tsar! Due to my many years of service in the affairs of Your Tsar's Majesty at the European courts, I was not given any kind of seaside place here, not a nearby manor, like other people of my age and of all ranks, the residents here have been given such dachas for all of them to correct all their household needs... And now such a seaside place and a nearby manor in Koporsky district were left after the death of the Privy Councilor Tikhon Nikitich Streshnev... may your state command for my faithful and long-term services to correct my ultimate household needs that... seaside place and that nearby manor... . to give to me and my son...” About the fact that the image of the Peterhof road as a system of estates in the second half of the 1710s. has already been formed, testifies the traveler Gerkens in a book published in German in 1718: “The entire sea coast south of Kronshlot up to St. Petersburg is dotted with country houses and dachas located next to each other. For after his royal majesty occupied Ingermanland, he, however, donated the estates of this region to his ranks of different ranks, but he ordered this strip by the sea to be divided into plots of 500 fathoms wide and 2000 fathoms long, and he distributed them partially senators and boyars, partly to their petty courtiers and some officers. Each of them could, at his own request, build himself one dacha, another yard and housing. Therefore, along these 4 miles along the coast, the yards are next to each other. Since the area is located in such a way that at a distance of about 1000 steps from the sea the shore has almost the same height, 60-70 feet, on which these courtyards and cottages stand one after another, it is easy to understand that this avenue cannot but be pleasant both from the side of courtyards on a hill, and for those who travel along the sea, having a panorama before their eyes, as if in the form of a semicircle. This strip of land is better than all the others, for it has everything necessary, namely: good fields, pastures, meadows, forest, fish and plenty of game birds.” 18 Peterhof Road Estates of U. Sinyavin and Rzhevsky. Fragment of a drawing from 1725. On the nature of the development of the Peterhof road in the first quarter of the 18th century. A drawing dating from 1725 and covering most of the territory of present-day Alexandria and Znamenka gives a good idea. It presents a significant variety of types of estate compositions and buildings. At the dacha of Ya.V. Bruce indicated two manor houses - an earlier one-story one, with a square of outbuildings, and a large palace with side wings, topped with a belvedere. The next site, owned by Dr. Blumentrost, has not been developed. Further to the east, on the plot of Count Chernyshev, a chain of houses for workers of the brick factories that existed here is shown - the future village of Znamenskaya. Rzhevsky's dacha is diagonally crossed by a stream, to the west of which there is a church and a vegetable garden with several outbuildings, and to the east - a modest one-story manor house. The last one shown is the dacha of Major General U.A. Sinyavin, head of the St. Petersburg Office of Buildings. His estate complex, including the main house with a mezzanine, has a strict axial composition. In the depths of the grove located to the south is a gazebo topped with a dome. Gerkens distinguishes two types of estate complexes: Lust-Haus - “pleasure house” (in the above translation “dacha”) and Hof und Wohnung - “yard and dwelling”. The surviving drawings of Peter's buildings confirm their existence. The first type is quite rich, large, often stone houses, built according to individual projects. These, in addition to the royal ones, were the Ivanovo Palace Foundation and development of the Peterhof road 19 of Tsarina Praskovya Feodorovna, “Favorite” A.D. Menshikov, the above-described palace of Y.V. Bruce (future Menshikov's "Moncourage"), stone houses of A.G. Dolgorukova (current Peterhof Own Dacha), G.I. Golovkin (“Roshchinskoye”), “Mom’s Chambers” (later “Sans-Ennui”). The "yards" were more modest. However, they were erected not only by people of average income (often who did not have time to relax at their dachas), but also by wealthier people, for whom they were, in all likelihood, temporary. One way or another, the “yards” also had to play a role in creating a representative image of the Peterhof road. The architectural qualities necessary for this, as in St. Petersburg, could be ensured by the use of “exemplary” projects. Architectural historians know the standard designs of estates, engraved in 1720-1721. and signed by D. Trezzini. No direct evidence of the existence of such projects for the Peterhof road has yet been found. However, with a high degree of probability we can assume that they existed: in Menshikov’s library there was kept “a drawing of houses built along the St. Petersburg road”, and in the albums of drawings that belonged to Peter I, we find the plan and facade of the estate, undoubtedly “exemplary”, with typical such projects with a set of services. Compositionally, it is extremely close to the one belonging to U.A. Sinyavin, as well as the estates of Annenhof and Elizavetgof built for the daughters of Peter. This is how Lady Rondo, the wife of an English resident in St. Petersburg, described her house on the Peterhof road in 1734: “I now have a small house outside the city... The house is built of wood, it only has a small hall, two living rooms on one side from it, the kitchen and services are on the other and four bedrooms and offices on the second floor. The house stands on a hill, the grassy slope of which leads to a beautiful meadow ending at the sea. Behind there is a birch and spruce forest that stretches for miles. There is nothing furnished or cultivated around, for the uncertainty of the weather in this region would make the expense of this ridiculous, and as much as the house looks rustic from the outside, so simple is it inside... our cows, sheep and poultry graze around: they are so tame that they fit to the very windows...” This description is very close to the composition of the house depicted in the drawing from the collection of Peter I. Probably, it was this project, based on Dutch prototypes, that was originally the “model” for the Peterhof road. Subsequently, in relation to the area, the above-mentioned standard designs of the 1720s were used. (intended for construction along river banks, primarily along the Fontanka). “Exemplary” project for a country estate Excerpt from Lady Rondo’s letter to (on the Peterhof road?). It is also of interest because it reflects noFrom the albums of Peter I. 20 Peterhof Road Peterhof Road on the plan of St. Petersburg (“Ottens plan”). Engraving. A new look at the St. Petersburg seaside landscape - the view of an enlightened Englishwoman, a resident of a country in which it was during this period that new views on the relationship between man and nature were formed and landscape park construction flourished. It is not surprising that her attention was primarily attracted by the beauty of the natural landscape (in St. Petersburg at that time the dominant desire was to “regulate” the landscape with the help of geometric structures, including “Dutch” and “French” gardens and parks). However, compositionally complete “regular” ensembles in private estates of the first third of the 18th century. were a rare exception. The plan of 1725 shows that while observing the mandatory principle of placing the manor house on the edge of the terrace and oriented it towards the bay, the estates and landscape elements of the estates within the territories allocated to them were arranged quite freely. The ensemble beginning is almost invisible. Orchards, divided into identical “quarters” by a rectangular grid of alleys, are most often asymmetrical in relation to the architectural complexes. Vegetable gardens are adjacent to the gardens. These areas look like inclusions in the natural landscape that dominates the overall picture of the estate. The main, “long” axis of the composition is outlined only at Sinyavin’s dacha and at Bruce’s old dacha house. However, undoubtedly, the latter technique was widespread: in the form of a clearing and a road leading to the sea, the “long” axis was present in the ensemble of Menshikov’s “Favorite”; as a planning element of many estates, it was recorded on the plans of the 1730-1740s. In the 1720s, as before, great attention was paid to the protection of forests on the coast. The planting of oak trees was especially encouraged - such a grove near Ekateringof Peter I Foundation and development of the Peterhof road 21 Plan of the Peterhof road with a project for laying a canal along the coast (fragment). 1734 planted with his own hands. However, felling for the purpose of establishing parks and removing diseased trees was allowed, as evidenced by a special decree of 1723. In 1722, B.-Kh. Minikh began the construction of a coastal canal, the first project of which, as already mentioned, appeared in 1715. Now the canal was supposed to run from the mouth of the Fontanka, through Strelna to the area of ​​​​modern Alexandria, and from here, through shallow waters, to the zone of great depths. However, due to difficulties encountered, this work was stopped, but the idea was not abandoned. Known for his statement “St. Petersburg is a window to Europe,” Francesco Algarotti wrote in 1739: “... They propose to dig... a large and deep canal from St. Petersburg to Peterhof... The Tsar himself ordered this work to begin: he would be delighted when observing warships passing under the shadows and beauties of his gardens, in the same way as in the capital, where he saw the shipyards next door to his palace.” The constructed section of the canal can still be seen on the ground in the area of ​​the Trinity St. Sergius Hermitage. In addition, Peter I intended to build a canal from Strelna to Peterhof “along a pre-speculation road... in which it would be possible to travel on small yachts and boats along the Galan style with horses...”, that is, horse-drawn. This project was also not destined to come true. But, despite such failures, by the mid-1720s. the system of estates along the Peterhof road was practically formed. The visits of many of them are noted in the “Journals” of Peter I and the “Daily Note” of A.D. Menshikov, in the memoirs of guests of the northern capital. Back in 1721 F.-V. Berchholtz wrote in his diary: “To Strelna Manor... we drove safely and well along a very cheerful road along the Neva, through groves and past many dachas, built by the noblest nobles to please the Tsar and making the whole road very pleasant.” In the travel diary, the last time this project was returned to was in 1763-1764. 22 Peterhof road Petersburg of the Bobruisk elder Sapega in 1726, after a description of the visit to Oranienbaum, Peterhof and “Favorite” it is stated: “... we drove along the seashore on land for 15 versts... and then by Perspective, cut through the forest (in which small beautifully built estates), all the way to St. Petersburg.” The time of Anna Ioannovna and Elizaveta Petrovna During the reign of Anna Ioannovna, several large private estates appeared on the Peterhof road - real “regular” palace and park ensembles. This was the dacha of Admiral N.F. Golovin (modern “Znamenka”), where on the site of the former estate of U.A. Sinyavin has a new house with an extensive lower garden. The estate of M.G. is typical. Golovkin with a labyrinth, a cascade and artistically treated slopes of the terrace, the estate of B.-Kh. Minich's "Shelter", which we can judge from the drawing of the 1730s. from the collection of F.-V. Berchholtz. However, in general, the 1730s. cannot be considered a time favorable for the flourishing of estate culture. This was not helped by the situation at the imperial court with its inherent rudeness of morals, the danger of reprisals, as well as the closed nature of the empress herself and the narrow circle of her entourage. While spending the summer in Peterhof, Anna Ioannovna supported it with repairs and improved the composition. For her, a passionate hunter, several menageries were set up here - the main one based on the confiscated Menshikov estate "Moncourage". Another colossal menagerie was designed and even began construction in the Ekateringof area, but it was not completed. In the 1730s, when the Kalinkin Bridge was built, the road between Fontanka and Krasny Zucchini became part of an important transit route. This was reflected in the decree of 1739: “On the road that runs from St. Petersburg to Narva, in some places many mileposts are dilapidated... and those pillars were placed along the road through Moskovskaya-Yamskaya, where travelers almost no longer go now, for now the roads have been paved again, one past the Church of the Ascension of the Lord, the other through the village of Kalinkina.” The result of the development of the Peterhof road in the 1710-1730s. was summed up by the publication of the map “The Gulf of Finland from Kronstadt to St. Petersburg with funny houses lying along the banks.” Engraved and printed in large quantities by the Academy of Sciences in the early 1740s, it included an image of a chain of estates and imperial residences on the southern coast, as well as ensembles of Near and Far Oaks on the northern coast. Having been sent to many foreign countries, it promoted the Peterhof Road as one of the main attractions of the Russian capital. During the reign of Empress Elizabeth Petrovna, whose political motto was to follow her father's initiatives, Peter's residences rose to a new level of perfection. Under the leadership of F.-B. Rastrelli reconstructed the ensembles of Peterhof, Strelna, and Oranienbaum. Ekateringof is being rebuilt and expanded. New estates of nobles and courtiers appear along the road. At the same time, the road itself and the territory immediately adjacent to the Foundation and Development of the Peterhof Road 23 were improved, truly turning into a main thoroughfare. By decrees of 1746, responsibility for the reconstruction of the road was assigned to Lieutenant General V. Fermor, while the owners of dachas were ordered to destroy all plank and wattle fences, replacing them with “lattices”, and to fence off the fields with “three-strut gouges.” It was proposed to remove all taverns and taverns from the road. The ban on cutting down trees (with the exception of small forests) was confirmed. The command of June 5, 1750 is symptomatic: “Her Imperial Majesty, during ... the procession in Peterhof, deigned to see a considerable number of beggars along the Peterhof road, for which purpose she deigned to indicate that along this road both on Sundays and on holidays, when in Peterhof there will be congresses for kurtags - there were no beggars along this road; For what. .. to establish a horse patrol along this road.” Along with the repair of the road itself (widening, paving, installing ditches, rebuilding bridges), straightening of its individual sections began. Between the modern Narva Gate and Komsomolskaya Square, a new route in 1754 was laid along a clearing that had been cut at one time for the designed canal. The following year, a direct section was laid to Krasny Zucchini. As part of the ongoing Ingermanland land survey, the boundaries of the “seaside dachas” along the Peterhof road were again revised and clarified. In 1745, Lieutenant Tinkov compiled a detailed inventory of dacha estates. The result of the work was the Land Survey Book of 1747 with a list of owners and a detailed description of the boundaries, as well as the corresponding “Plan for Seaside Cottages.” It demonstrates a significant variety of planning compositions of estates, usually symmetrical, U-shaped or in the form of a square. A.I. Bogdanov, in his manuscript, described the state of the estates along the Peterhof road in the middle of the 18th century: “And there are so many of them settled, house next to house next to each other, that at a distance of thirty miles from the Reigning St. Petersburg they are settled with great and tall houses, as if one great settlement was inhabited. What is further along the entire shore of the seaside noble building, which the curious himself deigns to explore more reliably, which is impossible to adequately describe, it is left. But now... for the better beauty of these houses, also for the high glory of the entire seaside coast, Her Majesty deigned to order these seaside houses to be decorated with one latticeworked city, in one line...” Despite the panegyric tone, this characteristic is largely deserved trust. Following the example of her father, Elizaveta Petrovna encouraged her entourage to build estates along the road leading to the residences that belonged to herself and the heir to the throne. An interesting attempt is to connect the ensembles with a “uniform” fence, developing Peter’s ideas of regulating the development of this route. The time of Peter III and Catherine II At the end of the reign of Empress Elizabeth Petrovna, the area along the road between the river. It was decided to divide Tarakanovka and Krasny Zucchini into summer cottages. The drawing on which the first version of their boundaries is drawn is dated December 22, 1760. The project was carried out during the reign of Peter III, when the previously outlined boundaries were clarified and plots were distributed. The corresponding decree from the Senate was received on February 9, 1762. The motivation for this decision is interesting: “. ..nearby from the Ekateringofsky Bridge to the Red Zucchini, places in which only the usual thefts occur and, besides, a considerable command is used, to avoid all this, no less than to decorate the places there, to distribute on both sides to those who wish for the construction of country courtyards.. “The foundation of the new ceremonial section of the Peterhof road coincided with the adoption of an act that gave a powerful impetus to the development of estate construction - the manifesto “On the granting of liberty and freedom to the entire Russian nobility.” Confirmed by Catherine II, this manifesto, freeing the nobles from compulsory public service, opened the way for them to the treasures of European culture, allowed them to travel, engage in science and art. The brilliance of the court forced the nobles to follow the example of the empress's inner circle, including in the field of estate construction. The main role model and ideologist of new trends in architecture and park construction was Catherine herself. Early 1760s - the period of formation of classicism in Russian architecture and landscape style in park construction. Regular “French” and “Dutch” gardens were replaced by picturesque “English” ones. It should be remembered that supporters of the former put above all else the “correction” of wild nature, the introduction of ideal order and completeness into it. The natural landscape served here primarily as the “source material” for creating ensembles in which straight lines and geometric compositions triumphed. For supporters of landscape parks, the most important thing was not active intervention in nature, but following the individual characteristics of the landscape, which became an equal component of the overall picture of the estate. Such parks at the turn of the 1760-1770s. were founded in Tsarskoe Selo and Gatchina; in 1779 they began construction of the English Park in Peterhof. At the same time, the construction of the first “English” gardens began on the Peterhof road: in 1773, while organizing the translation of books by foreign masters of landscape gardening, Catherine II wrote the following dedication: “To the owners of the seaside dachas along the Peterhof road lying this book is brought as a gift from the one who saw natural pleasures and abilities for greater decoration according to the rules prescribed here.” Plans from the mid-1770s indicate that by this time landscape gardens were built at the dachas closest to St. Petersburg: Krasnaya Manor A.A. Naryshkina, Kiryanova E.R. Dashkova, “Champetre” P.B. Sheremetev, at the dachas of Prince Vyazemsky and Count Mordvinov along the Emelyanovskaya road. Behind the Red Zucchini, by this time such a garden on the lower terrace had been built on the estate of L.A. Naryshkina "Levendal". And it is probably no coincidence that in the 18th century. Among the owners and tenants of dachas there were many Englishmen. The impressions of the effect of “merging with nature” were reflected in the review of the French Ambassador M.-D. de Corberon, who visited the estate of Count Chernyshev (modern Alexandrino) in 1776: “There is no garden, it is completely replaced by delightful field lawns.” Chernyshev's estate house reflected the corresponding changes in the architecture of the buildings: the magnificent manor houses in the Baroque style were replaced by classic “Palladian” villas skillfully integrated into the landscape. With all their diversity, landscape parks were perceived primarily by the Foundation and development of Peterhof Road 25 as a single whole, completely changing the character of the landscape of the bay coast. For a traveler passing by the estates, the boundaries between the plots were practically erased. The Peterhof road gradually turned into one grandiose park formation, united by the breadth of the sea panorama. The attention of contemporaries increasingly began to be attracted not by the merits of individual dachas or buildings, but by the image of the road as a whole, built on an organic combination of artificial and natural landscapes. This approach is evident in the drawings of Giacomo Quarenghi, where images of individual estates are included in the prevailing natural landscape. Of great importance for creating a new image of the route was the reconstruction carried out from 1773 to 1784, first under the leadership of General Engineer M. Mordvinov, and then by F.V. Baura. In 1773-1775 new straight sections of the route from Fontanka to Tarakanovka were laid. At the same time, granite city gates were erected on the Obvodny Canal. Following this, work continued on the reconstruction of subsequent sections, up to Peterhof. This project was developed in two versions: in the first, the former lower road was straightened and improved, in the second, part of the road was transferred to the upper terrace. “Lead on horseback,” read Catherine II’s handwritten inscription on the drawing. In pursuance of this resolution, in 1780-1784. The current upper road was built - a section of the highway between the Trinity St. Sergius Hermitage and Peterhof. The new road was built according to all the rules of engineering art of that time. It was highwayd - paved with stone and covered with crushed stone, drainage ditches were laid, granite bridges were built (only one of them, in the Znamenka area, has been completely preserved). Marble milestones and pyramids were installed along the road, and it was lined with birch trees. The number of country houses along this high road is constantly increasing. All large gardens have a noble forest, the oldest in the Dutch style, with straight, partly covered paths, alleys, etc., the newest ones according to the Aglinsky layout, with winding paths in the forest and bushes, with canals, islands, etc. A larger number of them are located near pleasure grounds forests, also open pleasure gardens, magnificent, and partly fruitful gardens, others with greenhouses, etc. The houses in the gardens are extremely diverse; wooden and stone, small and large, some of them are palaces of many different types of structures. Most of them have a beautiful view of the whole country with its changes, of St. Petersburg, Kronstadt, of the bay along which ships sail, and of the Karelian coast. - I.-G. Georgi, 1794. The time of Alexander I and Nicholas I. The reign of Alexander I for the Peterhof road was marked by an important event - the revival of what was not completed in the first third of the 18th century. ensemble of Strelna, which became the residence of the Tsar's brother, Grand Duke Konstantin Pavlovich. At the same time, the Strelny German colonies Neudorf and Neuhausen were founded. This exemplary architectural and landscape complex on the final section of the Narva Highway became the “front hall” of the following distance of the Peterhof Road. The victorious end of the war with Napoleon was marked by the construction of the Narva Triumphal Gate. Estate construction continued to take place, and contemporaries continued to admire this highway. Here is an eloquent description made in 1824 by Countess Choiseul-Gouffier, who arrived from France (we will forgive her the sentimental tone and some inaccuracies characteristic of that time): “We arrived in early June, in an era when there are no nights in this northern country. From the last station, i.e. from Strelna... in the space of three French miles, the road runs along the highway between two rows of dachas or charming village houses, overlooking the sea on one side, and on the opposite side the canals or branches of the Neva (there are mean the Lithuanian Canal? - S.G.). These dachas are separated from each other, as if by a large road, by a number of gardens dominated by white-trunked birch trees, the pale foliage of which stands out against the dark greenery of northern spruces and pines. Vases of flowers, gracefully arranged or grouped among the trees, represent, as it were, the personification of spring, which gives the inhabitants of the north only one smile... All these buildings are very diverse in architecture and general character. Here, amidst a mass of greenery, you see a Greek temple with its beautiful peristyle and graceful staircases; there is a Chinese pavilion with pagodas and silvery ringing bells; further you see a Swiss house, a modest-looking building that hides luxury under a deceptive appearance. And here is the Italian belvedere, rising gracefully above the surrounding trees and forming a picturesque contrast with the Gothic castle and its crenellated towers. Everywhere, in huge greenhouses, they are sheltered from the fresh or chilling air of those fruits that the sky usually bestows on happier climates and with which rich Russian nobles satisfy their voluptuousness for big money. In a word, thousands of objects, symbolizing tastes as varied as they are intricate, are revealed to the gaze of the traveler. The outskirts of Paris - with the exception of the royal palaces - present nothing that could equal the splendor of the outskirts of St. Petersburg, where, however, everything is created by art. These beautiful buildings, born of wealth and whim, are built on poor soil, which was once a vast swamp “One cannot help but be surprised by the stylistic diversity of the estates located along the road, but even more remarkable is the high praise given to the route, which for many travelers embodied the image of the surroundings of the northern capital and at the same time was a symbol of the colossal efforts made to transform the sparse northern nature in the second quarter. The last brilliant page of the history of the Peterhof road opened in the 19th century. With the accession to the throne of Nicholas I, the sovereign of the era of Russian romanticism, the “knight on the throne”, who saw himself as a successor of the ideas of Peter the Great, the purposeful landscape formation of the environs of the northern capital, and primarily the estates of the imperial family, began. . Back in August 1825, being the Grand Duke, Nicholas received the Peterhof Deer Menagerie as a gift, where he began to lay out a landscape park and build a miniature palace of a new type - the “Cottage”. In 1832, the Emperor made Peterhof his official summer residence and from that time began to acquire private estates around Peterhof. On their basis, new residences are created, old ones are improved and reconstructed. According to the apt remark of N. Kukolnik, who perhaps outlined the concept of Nicholas I himself, “Peterhof should not be considered a separate suburban place, but the center of a large system of royal and private villas located along the shore of the Neva estuary to the Gulf of Finland, far above Kronstadt and its batteries.” However, not only villas and new parks are springing up on the coast. Entire cultural landscapes were formed in which nature and art, aesthetics and “practice,” parks and fields, palaces, pavilions and peasant huts were equal in rights. This world of harmony, a gigantic picture of ideal Russia, was created by the best gardeners, architects, agronomists, engineers and hydraulic engineers. New estates - the improved Strelna of Grand Duke Konstantin Nikolaevich, Mikhailovka of Grand Duke Mikhail Nikolaevich, Znamenka of Empress Alexandra Feodorovna, imperial Alexandria and Peterhof, the Farm of the Prince of Oldenburg, the own dacha of the heir to the throne Grand Duke Alexander Nikolaevich, Sergievka of Grand Duchess Maria Nikolaevna stretched along the coast almost continuous strip almost 14 kilometers. To the west of them lay Oranienbaum, whose owner was the Tsar's brother, Grand Duke Mikhail Pavlovich. Four estates between Strelnaya and Peterhof were united by the Morskaya walking road, built in 1849 along the shore of the bay. During the landscape transformation of the bay coast by the middle of the 19th century. Twelve large landscape parks were laid out and reconstructed, half of which were in Peterhof. The new parks along the Peterhof Road were distinguished by their enlarged scale and complex structure. Branched water systems were built here, first-class highways were laid, “model” villages were erected, and agriculture, advanced for its time, was created. These landscapes included park pavilions, many of which were associated by members of the imperial family with buildings seen on their travels abroad. Lady-in-waiting of the Empress A.F. Tyutcheva recalled: “Peterhof and all its surroundings are dotted with pleasure pavilions, Dutch mills, Swiss chalets, Chinese kiosks, Russian huts, Italian villas, Greek temples, Rococo castles, etc., etc., built by Emperor Nicholas for entertainment and for the amusement of Empress Alexandra Feodorovna, in which she is in the habit, when she lives in Peterhof, to spend her days, endlessly diversifying her stay...” An important role in the image of the Peterhof road was played by the “green breaks” of field land between Strelnaya and Mikhailovka, sections of the villages of Bobylskaya and Martyshkino. With their discreet beauty they set off the luxury of state residences; through the open spaces of fields and vegetable gardens there were views of the sea. It is interesting that during the Crimean War, the coast was preparing to become a defensive line: a barrage of reddish barriers came out here, and batteries were built north of the Kronstadt colony - Klyuchinskaya, Izmailovskaya, Opolchennaya, and the Yegersky redoubt. The owners allocated land from the imperial estates for the construction of estates for their confidants. In Strelna, such satellite estates began to be created 28 Peterhof Road at the beginning of the 19th century; in Peterhof this process began in the 1830-1840s. Such rich estates arose both in the city itself, which during this period was intensively built up under the control of the emperor himself, and in its environs. Of particular interest were the villas near Oranienbaumsky Descent, the narrow sections of which in miniature corresponded to the configuration of the dachas along the Peterhof Road. The ongoing road construction improved the connection between the Peterhof road and the outskirts of the capital. During this period, the Krasnoselskoye highway (from Strelna to Krasnoye Selo), Ropshinskoye (from Znamenka to Ropsha), Volkhonskoye (between Mikhailovka and Tsarskoye Selo) were built. New estates were built along the road itself, belonging to major officials, military men, and merchants. The road to the official residence of the emperor, connecting St. Petersburg with the guards military camps in Krasnoe Selo, reached its peak. June 28, 1834 A.S. Pushkin wrote to his wife from the capital: “Petersburg is terribly boring. They say that light lives on the Peterhof road...” Peterhof road in the second half of the 19th - 20th centuries From the second half of the 19th century. The gradual decline of the Peterhof Road as an integral architectural and landscape system begins. Actually, the first signs of this became noticeable at the end of the previous century. Gradually, financiers, merchants, and industrialists became the owners of most of the estates on the bay coast. According to P. Svinin, “... along this road ancient Russian hospitality has decreased, but brothels of entertainment have multiplied; At the same time, the huge boyar castles were replaced by the pretty houses of the merchants, or passed into the hands of this class.” With the decline of Catherine's brilliant era, the features of noble estate culture became more and more noticeable. In 1801, the first industrial enterprise appeared on the Peterhof road - a state-owned iron foundry (future Putilovsky). Throughout the entire 19th century, especially in its last third, new plants and factories arose behind the Narva Gate. At the same time, houses for workers, shops, taverns, and later schools, hospitals, and churches were built. At the same time, the area behind Krasny Zucchini largely retained its former character. In the 1880s A.P. Verlander wrote: “The entire area near the Peterhof highway can be divided into two parts, sharply different from one another: 1) from the Narva Gate to the village. Avtovo and 2) from the village. Avtovo to the end of the county. In the last part there are no plants and factories, the dachas and houses are good, representing wealthy owners, and are located at a distance of half a mile from each other... On the contrary, in the area from the Narva Gate to the village. Automotive dachas stand densely one next to the other, all wooden, dilapidated, dilapidated; this part of the city was populated mainly by workers...” In 1857, railway traffic opened from St. Petersburg to Peterhof, and in 1864 the line was extended to Oranienbaum. In 1904-1908 A military railway was built to Bolshaya Izhora, which was also used for travel by private individuals. Foundation and development of the Peterhof road 29 The laying of railways was of great importance for the fate of the Peterhof road. On the one hand, its importance as a transport route decreased (and steamship traffic along the bay also decreased). On the other hand, the coastal strip has become much more accessible to citizens. Soon it turned into one of the favorite countryside vacation spots for St. Petersburg residents. After the release of the manifesto of 1861 and the liberation of the peasants, the process of territorial disintegration of large estates, which included villages with their field lands, began. With the transfer of these lands into peasant ownership, landscape regulation here ceased. At first, this did not cause any significant damage to the landscape. However, with the division of communal lands, they began to be massively purchased by land speculators for the purpose of resale for summer cottages. In the same way, many private estates along the Peterhof road were bought for dachas. In the second half of the 19th - early 20th centuries. Many dacha towns arose along the route - such as Knyazhevo, Dachnoye, Ligovo, Volkhonka and New Places in Strelna, Zavetnoye in Peterhof, Bogumilovka in Oranienbaum. With the construction of the railway and the construction of holiday villages on the estates, the parks and forests located in the depths of their territories began to be intensively cut down. Among the few that have survived to this day are “Alexandrino”, “Sosnovaya Polyana” and Peterhof’s Alexandria parks. In connection with the development of holiday towns on the southern coast of the Gulf of Finland in the 1910s. The construction of an electrified railway from St. Petersburg to Oranienbaum was undertaken - later called “Oranel”, or colloquially Oranel. Due to the outbreak of the First World War, construction was not completed: traffic opened only to Strelna. Between Sergievka and Martyshkin you can still see the embankment and reinforced concrete bridges prepared for this route. The urbanization of the Peterhof road entailed the massive destruction of ancient estates and their gardens. At the beginning of the 20th century, society began to realize the value of the route as a huge monument of St. Petersburg architecture, urban planning and culture, and to vote in its defense. So, N.N. Wrangel wrote with bitterness: “On the Peterhof road... suburban estates were destroyed and rebuilt, the marvelous dachas of Shcherbatov and Myatlev were given over to insane asylums. Only the house of Count A.D. Sheremetev (Alexandrino. - S.G.) looks slender with a white facade from behind the trees of a huge garden...” In 1915, M.I.’s dacha was examined in detail. Vorontsova (Novoznamenka), measures have been taken to protect it. At the same time, today one can only regret that a real survey of the historical and cultural landscapes along the southern coast was not carried out at that time: materials from topographic surveys of the 1930s. indicate that most of the estates and parks behind the Red Zucchini were preserved even at that time. Researchers of that time, like those of today, were primarily attracted to the central regions of St. Petersburg, while outside the city, attention was paid only to monuments of the 18th - early 19th centuries. and imperial residences. However, the school of domestic art history and scientific local history was just taking shape at the beginning of the 20th century. The situation could have changed in the next decade, but the First World War and revolution prevented it. After 1917, most of the estates of the imperial family and estates along the Peterhof Road were transferred to various organizations. Many palaces housed colonies for street children or correctional institutions (often these were the same thing). Only some ensembles of Peterhof and the Oranienbaum Chinese Palace received museum status. The low cultural level of the majority of the new owners, the propaganda of the ideology of “total” destruction of the heritage received from the former Russia, the lack of financial resources for basic repairs, theft and vandalism led to the destruction of many estates. In the 1920-1930s. In the Narvskaya Zastava area, a new public center was created with residential buildings for workers and ensembles of squares - Kirovskaya and Stachek. To the west of the former Putilovsky, now Kirovsky plant, the formation of the Avtovo residential area began. The rest of the Peterhof road did not undergo urban planning transformations and in the master plans of the city was considered as a green recreational area - the Primorsky Park, merging in the west with the gardens of Strelna and other former residences. There was no talk about the historical and cultural value of these territories: it was still believed that there were no monuments worthy of interest here, and the gardens were considered only as green areas. Famous local historian V.Ya. Kurbatov, in his guidebook “Strelna and Oranienbaum”, published in 1925, described this area as follows: “The highway has significantly changed its appearance, approximately to Krasny Zucchini. But further on, the gardens along the slopes of the hills have been preserved, but the disappearance of the palaces is imperceptible to the walker. That’s why a tram ride along this road is one of the most pleasant...” Only the hospital named after them deserves special mention. Trout, Alexandrino and Polezhaevsky Park. However, in the post-war period, plans to preserve these areas as parks were also revised. In the 1960-1980s. west of Avtov, the construction of residential areas of Dachny, Ulyanka, Ligov, Sosnovaya Polyana with multi-storey standard buildings began. Extending to the road itself, to the edge of the terrace, for most of its length it buried the remains of historical parks, buildings, and traces of planning. Only part of the historical gardens (to the east of Tambasova Street), mostly the “lower” ones, were reconstructed and became part of those laid out in the 1970s. South Primorsky Park. ARCHITECTURAL ENSEMBLES AND DISTANCES OF THE PETERHOF ROAD KOLOMNA The threshold of the Peterhof road is Kolomna - a district of St. Petersburg, located between the Kryukov Canal, Moika, Pryazhka and Fontanka. Through this area, after construction in the 1730s. wooden Kalinkin bridge, there was a road from the center of the capital to the coast of the Gulf of Finland. Regular development of this part of the city began in the second half of this decade, after the “Commission on the St. Petersburg Building”, headed by B.-H. Minikh, developed a number of master plans for the Admiralty and adjacent parts of the city, including Kolomna. During the design there was a route leading to the imperial palaces of Ekateringof and Peterhof was provided. The route of Sadovaya Street, which became the main axis of the southern part of Kolomna, was not suitable for this: oriented towards the Kalinkin Bridge, in fact it led to a dead end, to the cape at the confluence of the Fontanka and the Glukhaya River. , across which there were no bridges at that time. But from the Yusupov estate, at an angle to Sadovaya, a special highway was designed - Ekateringofsky Avenue (Rimsky-Korsakov Avenue), which, crossing the Glukhaya River, went out to its northern bank and led along the embankment. to the Kalinkin Bridge. This situation is reflected in the engraving of Peter Shtelin, made in the 1760s. : on it we see the mouth of the Fontanka with a long narrow island located in the middle, on the left is the road along the not yet fortified embankment of the Glukhaya River, to the right is the aforementioned cape with the wooden buildings of Kolomna, above which in the distance rise the churches of St. Nicholas the Sea, the Ascension and the Vladimir Mother of God. Kalinkina Square appeared in the second half of the 18th century, when, during large-scale hydraulic work to transform the Glukhaya River into the Ekaterininsky Canal, its course was changed: the curved final section was filled up and a new, straight one was dug, shifting it to the east. This was preceded by master plans of 1766 and 1769, according to which, on the city border running along the right bank of the Fontanka, a vast semi-circular square was designed, with five streets fanning out from it, inscribed in a triangular quarter limited by canals. The square, which was intended for the sale of food brought to the city, was at the same time supposed to become the ceremonial “entrance hall” of the capital (similar bridgehead squares, only smaller in size, were supposed to be built at other entrances to the city, including on Nevsky Prospekt). The decree of 1766 read: “These squares are intended not for trading alone, but following the example of other European cities and for the decoration of the city...” Regarding Kalinkina it was said: “Assigned... under number 3, the square for everyone arriving from the Livlyandskaya side to the city will be the first to present itself, and in front of it the passage is now very dirty and without any decoration...” It was planned to give the square a uniform architectural appearance, building it at public expense “with such a façade as was created by the Commission and will be worthy of the highest approval.” 42 Peterhof Road Kalinkina Square. Lithograph by F.-W. Perrault. 1841 Kalinkina Square (Repin Square). Photo by T.N. Ladynina. 1990s Kolomna 33 However, this plan was not implemented: it required the demolition of the already partially formed buildings of Kolomna and large hydraulic work to lay new canals. Layout of Kolomna quarters in the 1730s. was preserved, and the area bounded by the Fontanka, the Ekaterininsky Canal and the building line of Ekateringofsky Prospect took the shape of an irregular rhombus, and then, when in the first third of the 19th century. its eastern side was built up and became triangular. The leading building in the ensemble of the square is the Kolomenskaya part of the building - a massive building made of red brick in the Renaissance style, with a high tower in the center. For the first time, such a house with a fire tower was supposed to be built here back in 1738. , however, the first permanent building, combining the qualities of a fire department and a police department, was erected only at the end of the eighteenth century. It is depicted in the lithograph by F.-V. Perrault 1841: this is a two-story house in the style of strict classicism with an Ionic portico and a wooden observation tower, adjoining the carriage houses of the fire escape. The existing building was built in 1849-1851. designed by architect R.A. Zhelyazevich. Adjacent to it from the north is a house with a semicircular tower projection: in it in 1882-1895. lived and worked I.E. Repin, for whom in 1887 the architect A.I. Reimers built a workshop. The northern side of the square includes a number of interesting buildings of the late 18th - early 19th centuries, which were subsequently rebuilt (for example, houses 109 and 111 on Rimsky-Korsakov Avenue). From the west it is closed by the buildings of the Admiralty Plant. In the middle is a square, laid out in 1875 at the expense of the merchant Landrin according to the design of the architect A.I. Mertz. At the end of the square facing the Fontanka there is the main sign that the square belongs to the Peterhof Road - a milestone obelisk made of marble and granite, erected during the reign of Catherine II, with a sundial and the number “26”, indicating the distance to Peterhof. However, it was moved to this place in the 2nd half of the 19th century, and previously it stood on the right side of Staro-Peterhofsky Prospekt, near house No. 3. The Staro-Kalinkin Bridge across the Fontanka connects Kalinkin Square with the historical route of the Peterhof Road - Staro-Petergofsky Prospekt. In 1786-1787 The bridge replaced the previous one, built in 1752, which in turn replaced the original one, built in the early 1730s. These bridges were arched, wooden, with Dutch-type draw mechanisms. Probably their creator was Harman van Boles, the author of many similar bridges in St. Petersburg. The new stone bridge, built according to a “model” design specially developed for bridges along the Fontanka, despite a number of reconstructions, still retained its historical features - granite abutments, parapets and towers, which previously housed the mechanisms of the wooden draw span. This architectural concept was based on the design of a bridge across the Neva by the French engineer J.-R. Perrone, developed by him in 1778. Simultaneously with the construction of the bridge in the 1780s. The banks of the Fontanka were lined with granite and large earthworks were carried out to reconstruct its bed: the Pogany Island, which divided it in two, was partially razed and made trapezoidal in plan (it was named Galerny). The bed of the Fontanka in the area of ​​the bridge was narrowed, the banks of its two branches were straightened. The three-span Malo-Kalinkin Bridge with elegant lantern-obelisks was thrown across the new mouth of the Catherine Canal. FROM FONTAKA TO THE BYPASS CANAL Behind the Staro-Kalinkin Bridge, Staro-Petergofsky Prospekt begins - the historical route of the Peterhof Road. According to the first administrative division of the city in 1737, this territory became part of the St. Petersburg Moscow side, but in fact remained suburban. In 1766, it received the status of a suburb called Livlyandsky (later Riga). Its borders from north to south extended from the Fontanka to the planned urban pasture ditch (the future Obvodny Canal). Between them, according to the master plans of the 2nd Admiralty part and the suburbs of 1766 and 1769, two parallel highways were designed - modern Rizhsky Avenue and Kurlyandskaya Street. They were laid out on the ground and began to be built up in the 1770-1780s. In 1782, the Riga suburb became part of the newly formed Moscow, and subsequently - the 4th Admiralty and then the Narva part of St. Petersburg. The development front along the bank of the Fontanka to the east of Staro-Petergofsky Prospekt was formed in the 1750s - early 1760s: here, along with the large estate of the merchant Kirill Popov located near the bridge, there were peasant courtyards of the village of Metalova, houses of sailors, artisans, retired military men, adjacent to the estates of the “widow Timmermansha,” and the savings of Kerlen’s adviser, Major General Dannenberg. Beyond the line of what is now Drovyanaya Street, the parade ground of the Izmailovsky Life Guards Regiment began. Subsequently, in the middle - second half of the 19th century. On the site of these households, new buildings were erected, mainly medical institutions. The former Dannenberg site today houses the Goznak factory. To the west of the road, along the left bank of the Fontanka, stretched an area known as Kalinkina Village. The name “Kalinkina”, which is still preserved in the names of the bridges and the lane of the same name, comes from the name of the Finnish village Kalljula, which at the end of the 17th - beginning of the 18th century. was located on the left bank of the Fontanka, on the site of houses 160-164. She was not the only one - several more farms (Romana, Khurkiala, Kiprina) were located along the bank of the now defunct Tarakanovka River - modern Tsiolkovsky Street, between the Obvodny Canal and Kurlyandskaya Street. One of these villages gave the river its name: in the middle of the 18th century. they were called Kalinkina, Tarakanova, Metalova, Kargalova and Romanova. In Peter's time, this area became part of the Ekateringof estate. There is a legend about the secret wedding of Peter I and Catherine on November 20, 1707 in the Ekateringof wooden church or chapel, erected in honor of the first naval victory over the Swedes. In the 1710s. she was transported to Strelna, where, as a chapel in the name of St. Nicholas was added to the Transfiguration Church there. All the way from the Fontanka to the Obvodny Canal 35 View of Kalinkina Sloboda. Engraving by P. Shtelin. 1760s Until 1746, the Kalinkinskoe cemetery existed in this area - the main cemetery on the Admiralty side. This year, “due to the proximity of the Imperial House,” burials on it were prohibited, and gradually it disappeared. In the 1710-1720s. near the Kalinka village, on the banks of the Fontanka, a number of palace industrial establishments were established. This is a linen factory - the famous Spinning Yard, the Shpalernaya Manufactory (transferred from here to the current Shpalernaya Street in 1732), cereal and oil windmills. There were also factories for making powder and braiding here. A “parchment” factory was built on a small island at the northern tip of Gutuevsky Island. By the middle of the 18th century. the village turned into Kalinkina Sloboda, where merchants, officials, and military men lived. In 1762, along the embankment to the west of the Peterhof road there was a tavern, behind it there was a large house, a garden and a menagerie of the merchant Reinhold, then the houses of the priest of the Ekateringof church Nikita Yakovlev, adviser Shtelin, the “naval soldier regiments of captain” Potap Chernyshev, Major Ivan Kazakov, Kalinkinsky spinning house with a vegetable garden. Behind the future Libavsky Lane there was the yard of Lieutenant Boris Shablykin, and in the area of ​​the former cemetery there was a government vegetable garden. Of these inhabitants of Kalinkina Sloboda, the greatest mark on Russian history was left by Jacob Shtelin, one of the most enlightened people in Russia in the mid-18th century, educator of the future Emperor Peter III, and the first historian of Russian art. Thanks to those performed in the 1760s. His son Peter’s engravings with views of these places give us an excellent idea of ​​the Kalinkina settlement of that time. In its development, three two-story houses stand out - Reinhold, Shtelina 36 Peterhof Road and the Spinning Yard, as well as a brewery, a sugar factory and the house of the merchant Popov standing on the other side of the road, to the east of it. This is how Shtelin characterized his property in an advertisement in 1767: “On the banks of the Fontanka River between the Kalinkinsky Bridge and the seaside, a large place is being rented out, on which a new house has been built with four chambers, having an avenue (view. - S.G.) both on the seashore towards Kronstadt and at the mouth of the Neva River, in the yard there is a kitchen with a quiet area, a barn and a stable, and also a spacious garden area; Those wishing to hire can inquire about the price from... State Councilor Shtelin.” The settlement suffered severely during the flood of 1777. French diplomat M.-D. de Corberon, describing its consequences,” noted: “But most terrible of all is the situation in the Kalinkinsky suburb, where all the houses are destroyed and the corpses of men, women and children lie everywhere.” Probably only the stone buildings of the Popov factory and the Spinning House were preserved (which, however, was soon dismantled and built again). The property of the merchant Popov was located on the site of a large complex of the Naval Hospital, dominating the development of the left side of Staro-Peterhofsky Avenue behind the Staro-Kalinkin Bridge. For the first time, the buildings were shown here on plans of the 1730s. In 1756, there was an order to find out. , with whose permission Kirill Popov was allocated a place for the construction of a brewery. Three years later, a decree was issued on the dismantling of the breweries built along the Fontanka, but three days later it was canceled “taking into account the reasons presented by the Chief of Police at the mouth of the Fontanka River and the former Kalinkina Sloboda.” . Fragment of the plan of St. Petersburg in 1828 (“Schubert’s plan”) From the Fontanka to the Obvodny Canal 37 The “English” brewery that stood on the very shore was carried away by the flood. The three-story stone factory building - a square with a courtyard and outbuildings protruding to the east - remains in the depths of the site, half-covered by hospital buildings (156 Fontanka River Embankment). The former Popov sugar factory, now owned by the creditors of the deceased merchant Leader, near the Kalinkin Bridge. The factory itself is a tall, large stone building with a large yard. - I.-G. Georgi, 1794. At the beginning of the 19th century. a barracks was set up in the building, which became known as the 2nd Marine barracks. In 1836 it was partially converted into a hospital. Perhaps it was at this time that the facades of the building received classicist elements - an elongated attic, sandstones above the windows of the upper floor, rusticated blades. In 1845-1853 designed by architect M.A. Pasypkin, a corner barracks building facing the bridge was erected. In 1866, this building was also transferred to the Naval Hospital. Subsequently, it was built on the 3rd floor (Fontanka River embankment, 156a). In the 1950s on a neighboring plot according to the project of D.P. Buryshkin, a monumental hospital building was erected in the “Stalinist Empire” style (Staro-Peterhofsky Ave., 2). On the other side of the avenue there is a small square, adjoined to the south by a two-story residential building in the classicist style. On the site of the park since the middle of the 18th century. there was a tavern: at the beginning of the next century, the house with a drinking establishment on the ground floor belonged to the merchant Dubinin, and then Pavlovsky. The building had a cut-off corner facing the bridge with a balcony; the facade overlooking the Fontanka was crowned with a pediment. This house was destroyed already in Soviet times, only the neighboring one, which belonged to the 1820s, survived. merchant Pelevin, and in the 1840s - Yakimov (Staro-Peterhofsky Ave., 3-5). Next to it until the end of the 19th century. the first marble milestone along the Peterhof road stood (now on Repin Square). The next large classicist house along the Fontanka, the left wing of which follows the bend of the river, is the main building of the Naval Hospital (Fontanka River embankment, 162). It was built in the 1st quarter of the 19th century. and belonged to the merchant Pelevin, and then to Princess Shakhovskaya, from whom it was purchased in 1835 and in 1836 rebuilt into a hospital according to the design of engineer-general L.L. Carboniera. Thus, the hospital existed in two departments (the second was in Popov’s house described above). He was transferred here from a building that had belonged to him since Peter’s time on the Vyborg side. In 1898, an extension was made over the central part of the house for the chief doctor's apartment. It did not contradict the architecture of the building, fitting into its composition. The harmony was subsequently disrupted when this superstructure was extended along the entire length of the western wing and the building became asymmetrical. The territory of the hospital continued in a southern direction along the avenue: it is marked by a stone fence facing it, behind which is Pelevin’s wooden house, built in the 1st quarter of the 19th century. It retained classic proportions, but all architectural details were lost during renovations. An interesting element is the deep loggia in the central part of the first floor. The next house of the U-shaped composition, with a deep cour d'honneur occupied by a garden and outbuildings facing the red line of the embankment, is the Nikolaevsky Women's School 38 Peterhof Road (164 Fontanka River Embankment). At the end of the 1810s. on this site there was a house occupied by a noble boarding house at the Pedagogical Institute, where the future composer M.I. studied. Glinka and taught by such famous teachers as A.P. Kunitsyn and A.I. Galich. In 1822, the house of the merchant Ott, which stood on the site, was purchased to house the almshouse of the Orphanage, which moved here after reconstruction by the architect D. Quadri. The building has a modest decoration, but its U-shaped composition, proportions and details are characteristic of the classicist style. In 1867-1906. it housed the Nikolaev Women's School, and in 1914 it was transferred to a neighboring hospital. After the revolution, there was an orphanage here. Following it is a long two-story building with a high arch in the center, closed by magnificent cast gates and crowned with a plastic lock-bracket - the “secret” Kalinka Hospital (166 Fontanka River Embankment). Its history goes back to the already mentioned linen factory - the Spinning House. During his travels abroad, in Amsterdam, Peter saw a spinning factory that also served as a women's correctional facility, after which he set up a similar one in St. Petersburg. Here Dutch craftsmen were supposed to teach women of easy virtue “to make good and fine fabric in the Dutch manner.” Among Peter’s notes there is a short note: “About the women needed at the Ekateringof linen factory.” In 1724, 139 people worked at the factory, and among the spinners there were 57 freemen and 10 “slaves”. The French traveler O. de la Motre in 1726 recorded how two women, after being punished with a whip, “were sent to weave and spin hemp at a new linen manufactory founded by Peter I about three miles from here, where the Dutch of both sexes were put in charge and teach the Russians to make good and fine fabric in the Dutch manner.” The stone building was built in 1720 according to the design of the architect N.F. Gerbel. Its appearance is known from the engravings of P. Shtelin: it is a long two-story building with a lowered ground floor, enlivened by the belfry of the church founded in it a year later. After an unsuccessful attempt to transfer the unprofitable factory into private hands in 1727, it was closed, and its building in 1734 was transferred to the Izmailovsky Life Guards Regiment to house the office and archive. However, in 1745, by decree of Empress Elizabeth Petrovna, the factory was reopened. A year later, girls from the secret “fun house” of a certain Dresdensch were placed here (this case received wide publicity at that time), and in 1750 a police decree was issued about “the capture and delivery to the Kalinkinsky house of all obscene women and girls...” . The factory finally became a correctional institution for women of “depraved behavior.” In 1779, instead of a factory, a medical institution was established - a “secret” hospital for patients with venereal diseases. The dilapidated Peter the Great building was dismantled and a new one with 60 beds was erected on its foundations. Compositionally, it resembled the previous one (it was two-story and elongated), but had a slightly different architecture: the facades were divided by blades, panels were arranged between the windows, and the center was accentuated by a brace with an attic. In general, the appearance of the house, built in 1781-1782, was quite severe, which corresponded to its specific function. On the plots belonging to the hospital, south of the main building from Fontanka to Obvodny Canal 39 and on the opposite side of Libavsky Lane, houses for staff, a pharmacy and a number of auxiliary buildings were erected. During the reign of Nicholas I, the hospital complex was reconstructed. In 1830-1833 in the depths of the main site according to the design of the architect L.I. Charlemagne the 2nd, a large new classicist building was erected - a good example of the “official” architecture of the Nicholas era,” other buildings were erected. At the same time, the old building along the Fontanka was reconstructed and its facades were improved - the blades and panels disappeared, the above-mentioned arch with gate wings, an attic appeared and sandriks above the windows in the central part. The building housed the apartments of hospital employees. The hospital existed until 1930, after which the hospital complex was located in its buildings and has been well preserved to this day. Its composition is based on a square courtyard with a garden. and a fountain, bounded on the north and south by the old and main buildings, and on the west and east by the buildings of the former pharmacy and gynecological department. On the western side of Libavsky Lane there are buildings of the former outpatient clinic, a chapel with a mortuary and a laundry (house no. 3). interesting from a historical point of view: the mentioned cemetery and the legendary Peter the Great's chapel were located here, and in the late 1750s. a state-owned cattle yard was established, on the territory of which a wooden church of St. was erected for the sick in 1778. Catherine. It was located here until 1847 and was the predecessor of the stone one, later built on Staro-Peterhofsky Avenue. And in this area, the successor to the wooden church was the above-mentioned mortuary chapel, built in 1850. Kalinkinskaya Hospital (old building along the Fontanka embankment). Photo 2000 40 Peterhof Road Spy Palace and Kalinkinsky Spinning House. Reproduction from an engraving by P. Shtelin. 1760s The development front along the Fontanka embankment within the block consists of two apartment buildings, between which there is a complex of former industrial buildings of the Building Stone Processing Society and the Northern Commercial and Industrial Joint Stock Company. Behind it begin the industrial buildings of the Novo-Admiralteysky plant. At the beginning of the 20th century. the embankments served as a kind of transshipment port. Eyewitnesses recall: “You look from the Kalinkin Bridge down the Fontanka - a whole forest of masts with intertwined rigging. Bowsprits Life pr