Carlos Soria "Climbing Ama Dablam is harder than I thought." Climbing Ama Dablam What you need to climb Ama Dablam

Our ascent will take the classic route along the southwestern ridge and the reward for completing it will be a fantastic view that opens from the top of Ama Dablam - you will simultaneously be able to see four eight-thousanders at once - Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu.

Experienced Sherpas will help us both during the route and during the installation of high-altitude camps.

The path to the top is laid along the southwestern route mountain range. A technical route with three camps, starting from the base camp. Usually the ascent takes about 4 weeks. The ascent is technically not easy; there will be pure rock climbing on slippery granite, and on snow and rocks. The final stage involves a long, steep climb up a snowy slope to the very top!

Tour program

The Ama Dablam climbing program lasts 26 days.

Dates:
October 4 - October 29, 2014
April 18 - May 13, 2015

Route: Kathmandu - Lukla - Phakding - Namche Bazaar - Tengboche Monastery - Pangboche - Base Camp (BC) - Assault Camp (ABC) - Climbing - Namche Bazaar - Lukla - Kathmandu

Climbing program by day:

Day 1
Arrival in Kathmandu, meeting at the airport, accommodation at the hotel. Registration necessary documents and permissions.

Day 2
Sightseeing tour of Kathmandu with a Russian-speaking guide: Royal Durbar Square with its ancient history, Hindu temples and traditions, the temple of the living goddess Kumari and the oldest wooden palace Kastamandap; the largest ancient Buddhist stupa Boudhanath with the all-seeing eyes of Buddha; Swayambhunath is a small town of Buddhist temples, monasteries and Hindu religious buildings. From the top of the Monkey Mountain hill, where Swayambhunath is located, a magnificent panorama of the Kathmandu Valley opens up - a colorful green basin surrounded by majestic mountain peaks. Return to the hotel. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 3
Getting to know tourist area Thamel with its numerous restaurants, shops and equipment stores, where you can buy everything you need for the Expedition.

Day 4
Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2860m) by small plane (about 35 min flight). Arrival, start of trekking: transition to the village. Pagding (2640 m)

Day 5
Trek to Namche (3340m). Passing through several interesting settlements to the entrance to the National. Sagarmatha Park near the village of Jorsale. After lunch in the pine forest we leave the river and climb the steps to the main administrative center Khumbu - Namche.

Day 6
Acclimatization rest day. Namche is the capital of the Sherpa people and the most large settlement in the Solukhumbu region. Optional ascent to 3800 m - runway Syangboche - and a walk to the Japanese "oxygen" hotel with views of Everest, Lhotse, Amadablam, Kantega and Thamserku. Every Saturday, a market of local goods from all over the valley is organized here, which is why the place is better known as Namche Bazaar. There is an abundance of souvenirs here. Visit to the National Museum park, and if you wish, you can also visit the ethnographic museum and monastery in the northeast of the city.

Day 7
Trek to Tengboche (3870m). The path goes to the bridge over Dudh Kosi (2 hours), then climbs to the monastery (1–1.5 hours). This is one of the highest monasteries, the main monastery of the Sherpas of the Nyingma direction of Tibetan Buddhism. It is located on the shoulder of a high mountain ridge at an altitude of 3870 m. From here you can see Ama Dablan (6812 m), the snow-white wall of Lhotse (8501 m) and the rock pyramid of Everest. Dinner. Overnight in the loggia.

Day 8
Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4600m). Overnight at a guest house in Pangboche (3900m).

Day 9-22
The period of acclimatization and ascent.

Day 23
Trek Pangboche (3900m) - Namche Bazaar (3340m). Overnight in a guest house.

Day 24
Trek to Lukla (2860m). Overnight at the lodge.

Day 25
Flight Lukla - Kathmandu. Transfer to the hotel. Free time in Kathmandu, selection of souvenirs. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 26
Transfer to international airport. Final departure from Kathmandu.

Tour cost

The cost of climbing Ama Dablam with local guides is $5120.

What's included

Included in the tour price included:

• Transfers - meeting and seeing off at the airport
• Excursions around Kathmandu with a Russian guide
• 4 nights accommodation in Kathmandu in double occupancy – 3* hotel with breakfast
• Local flights from Kathmandu to Lukla and back
• Air delivery of cargo Expeditions (cargo) - based on a maximum of 30 kg personally
• Permit for climbing Ama Dablam
• Permit to enter national park Solokhumbu
• Services of a liaison officer for the Expedition according to regulations
• Accompaniment of a guide/high-altitude Sherpa (climber of Ama Dablam and Everest) - one for two team members
• Porter/porter services for Team members' luggage and equipment for climbing and camps, food and fuel: 3 porters from Lukla to BC AmaDablam
• Porters for Team and Camp cargo - return from BC to Lukla
• Cook for the Team in BC
• Assistant cook at BL
• BC equipment: tents for the Kitchen, Dining Room, Shower, Toilet, kitchen utensils, tables/chairs
• Altitude nutrition during ascent
• Tents - one personal for each team member in BC, and one for two team members in high-altitude camps
• Oxygen with mask and regulator in BC - for emergency care (in case of use, costs are at the user's expense)
• Registration of a “garbage” pledge

• International flight to Kathmandu
• Nepal visa (40 USD)
• Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu
• Meals and accommodation during trekking Base camp Ama Dablam
• Personal expenses, incl. for souvenirs, alcoholic drinks, international calls and Internet use
• Climbing insurance
• Costs for evacuation and rescue operations (if necessary)
• Personal High Altitude Sherpa Guide
• High altitude guide bonus for climbing - USD 500
• Tips for service staff

Equipment

List of personal equipment required for climbing Ama Dablam.

Cloth
Down jacket
Storm jacket with membrane
Fleece jacket
Storm trousers with membrane
Thermal underwear
Warm climbing socks (3 pairs)
Thin trekking socks (3 pairs)
Gaiters
Gloves
Warm mittens
Fleece hat
Balaclava and face mask
Rain Cape

Shoes
Double-layer mountaineering boots, up to 7000m
Trekking sneakers

Mountaineering
Hanging system
Self-insurance
Descender
Carabiner with coupling (3 pcs)
Helmet
Cats
Ice ax
Telescopic poles
Mountaineering glasses

Tourism and bivouac
Backpack 40-50 liters
Bag 100-120l
Sleeping bag
The mat is flat
Thermos
Sun cream
Hygienic lipstick
Towel, soap, toothpaste, brush
Personal First Aid Kit

- Nepal... What kind of resort is this?
You can't swim or sunbathe.
What is the point of such a vacation...
- No, you can go once.
(From a conversation between a casual acquaintance and the climber’s wife).

But I just love Nepal, I feel good there, it’s close to me.

I first went there in the fall of 1990. as part of the last Soviet Himalayan expedition to the South Face of Lhotse. The ascent was organized in classic Himalayan style. We worked in several groups. The leader of our group was Mikhail Turkevich. In short, I'm proud of it. Very…
For two months, working up and down on the wall, we admired, saw, but did not notice, the most beautiful peak - Ama Dablam.

But it was necessary to get to this point (I mean the top, of course). Recently I counted that I sent a total of 21 emails to Nepal, with the main idea - organize the ascent as cheaply as possible for poor Ukrainian students, they have nothing but lard, and you won’t have lard... But the funny thing is that something like this it came out. In one of our two bundles, the main product turned out to be lard. Well, in general, we agreed with the Nepalese...

How we usually look for money for expeditions, this is a topic for a separate, very not free seminar (somewhere you have to get money for further expeditions). But in the end, most of the money was given to us by the Department of Youth and Sports of the Dnepropetrovsk Regional State Administration.

In addition to the fact that we are very grateful, this is also a good sign - if the local administration gives money for a non-Olympic sport, then all is not lost. Since there was a complete lack of money, some division of candidates immediately occurred. The range was from those who said that they would quit their jobs, they would borrow money, but there was not enough money, they would sell everything, but they would not miss the chance to go to the Himalayas. To those who said that this is a problem, add your money, because... There is nowhere to get them and in general, is it necessary to spend that kind of money? In general, a team with “burning eyes” assembled. And it’s probably good that we couldn’t find all the money...

More about the team. If you start with more, then of course Sergey Goncharov. He was our “Minister of Finance”. With a height of about two meters, an athletic figure and the grace of a former boxer, he very convincingly asked the one and a half meter Nepalese about their “last price” and they understood that the price could indeed be the last.

At the height, when everyone didn’t even want to think about food, Sergei eagerly decided which of the four types of soups he would prepare for himself.

Masha Khitrikova. Born in 1990 when dad passed a tough selection for the All-Union Expedition to Lhotse - 50 masters of sports no older than 36 years old with experience of at least three seven-thousanders ran along Elbrus for a while in winter. And my mother, Lena Khitrikova, took third place in the 1989 All-Union ranking after climbing two seven-thousanders, Chatyn and several more 5-B ones. In short, Masha is the fruit of selection. At the age of 16 I climbed to Lenin Peak, as they say in “Alpine style”, I really didn’t want to walk forward. My favorite pastime is making “pistols”, to bet on who can win more, for dessert.

Sergey Goncharov

Masha Khitrikova

Vitalik Nesterchuk. Character - “Nordic, seasoned.”

A professional athlete, he graduated from a physical education institute and currently works in the climbing equipment store “Voskhozhdenie.” The owner of the store was convinced that a great climber is not a problem, but a rare piece of luck (I confess, I took the sin on my soul), and if he himself stopped going to the mountains, then it was simply necessary for the image of the store, etc. etc.

Alexander Turtukov- trainer, instructor. A very strong athlete, he also had the imprudence to go to Nepal with his daughter, but instead of pushing her ahead of him, at the same time keeping an eye on her, he showed the softness characteristic of almost all dads - he left her in the last loggia. Anya provided us with radio communications, for which we are very grateful to her. But Sasha was completely tormented by how she was there alone, with these constantly changing foreign groups. He even ran down from the base camp one more time so that Anya wouldn’t be bored (naive).

It all ended, of course, with the fact that during the ascent, in the area of ​​the third camp, Sasha realized that his heart was hurting and if he, well, right now, didn’t start going down to the loggia, he wouldn’t make it in time by the evening. And he rushed and made it, covering a very large part of the route that day. And his heart calmed down. Vladimir Khitrikov- coach, leader, inspirer, money maker, partly even a father. According to mountaineering experience, practically - “Koschey the immortal”. He has been everywhere, knows everything and still walks somehow. The main characteristic is “he doesn’t drink and isn’t sick.” I won’t quote folk wisdom in case someone doesn’t know.

Climbing. There is probably no point in describing the road for the route in detail.

Well, thanks to Larisa Gerasimova, we bought the most inexpensive tickets through Pakistan, well, we ate as many crabs there as we could. So, after a dozen large ocean crabs, in Vitalik’s opinion, the flatbread is still better. Having flown out October 15 from Kyiv, we 23rd We were in Pangboche at an altitude of 3900m and on the same day in the evening we rose to Base camp 4500m where we spent the night.

24th climbed to 5000m and descended again to Base camp. 25th went out to Advanced Base Camp at an altitude of 5300 and 26th V Camp 1 at 5630m.

Now a few words about New Himalayan Mountaineering. Nepal is a small, poor country with a rather enterprising population, which suddenly got lucky - rich foreigners come and go and are ready to leave quite a lot of money in Nepal. The hardworking Nepalese have worked hard. We marked all the popular routes and set up tents in all intermediate camps. Pay and use. I am a weak and not very principled person - well, I can’t help but use a rope if it is hung on the route. And of course there is no definite answer whether this is good or bad. Everything is balanced as always. If you treat the route as a training route, then at least it’s tolerable. And safety, again, increases many times over. True, there is just as much less mountaineering, but this is a matter of taste. In short, it’s very convenient, but a little embarrassing.

Speaking of safety. All conversations with Nepalese on the topic of “what if” boiled down to the fact that, hire a high-altitude Sherpa and he “if anything” will save you. Instructors! From now on, pay attention - the cost of a high-altitude Sherpa for climbing Ama Dablam along the classic marked route is $1,100. This is when working with one client. Don't cry.
Well, we work in the Caucasus with branches for a cup of rice and an idea, but the Nepalese have large families and very small houses. And our girls are so cute, again in the field of ballet...

Eh... In short, we gathered in the evening at Camp 1 and began to discuss future plans. Acclimatization was clearly insufficient - everyone slept poorly. It turned out that out of the five, three were ready to try to move on tomorrow.

Camp 1

For the two of us, it’s better to go downstairs to rest. Because In both groups there was an instructor, then a very correct alternate version with backup could have developed. But in the morning it turned out that only I managed to sleep. And that’s because after abundant evening tea drinking, I had to leave the tent at night. I stood on a flat slab, the size of a very large snowboard, and everything seemed to start well. But suddenly the stove went off. I wouldn’t like to focus on the details, but at that moment I turned out to be a snowboarder. The overnight stays are located on a steep section of the ridge, but after rolling a little, I managed to jump off. The truth alarmed everyone and I suffered a lot of fear myself. He climbed into the tent, angry, frightened and barely holding back his laughter. In general, I argued to myself, giggling, for about 15 minutes, and then I opened my eyes - it was morning. I start asking people - no one really slept. Heads hurt. In short, everything is down. In two hours we descended to the base camp and after another hour and a half we were in Pangboche. We spent three nights there in the loggia. Last night we slept pretty well.

Approach to Camp 3

Exit to the top

Vertex

From Camps 2 we left at 4:30, 1 - November th, around 12-00 we were at top and by 16-00 we went down to Camp 2. The weather was clear, but a strong wind was blowing, which prevented the other groups from leaving. Therefore we are on this day, higher Camps 3, we were alone on the Mountain. Those. No one bothered us either during the ascent or descent. But reverse side- cold and wind. From the pillow on which it is located Camp 3, to the top of the icefall, he literally blew us off the slope. There would be some more “heroics” to add here, but, alas... Above the icefall, life actually began. The wind has decreased a little, the sun is shining, the railings are hanging, the steps are broken and there is no one but us. He took ten steps, stopped for five breaths and exhalations, and then again, ten steps. In general, it’s just you, the Mountain and your “inner voice”, which asks you all sorts of snide questions. But I have known for many years that he himself is a fool. After several hours of such walking, we reached the top. The inner voice, of course, shut up, and we tried to penetrate the idea that we were at the top of the Most Beautiful Mountain in the World. And if there was an element of subjectivity in this, then at that moment we had the right to it. The view from the top was wonderful, and the view of the South Face of Lhotse was probably the best. Well, if you ignore lofty thoughts and look only at your feet, then the peak is a snowy area, unexpectedly quite large - 20-30 meters in diameter and flat. After about 15 minutes, having taken plenty of photographs, we began our descent along the ascent path, towards Camps 3.

South Face of Lhotse and Everest

Speaking of Camp 3.A year before our ascent, on the night of November 13-14, 2006. Camp 3 was demolished by a giant serrac, which broke away from the icefall hanging above it. 6 people died. In 2007 The Nepalese installed it there again. Their motives are of course understandable. Without decent preparation, it is difficult to gain 1100m of altitude along this terrain and descend in one day.

And for some clients it’s simply not realistic. And these are losses. Maybe, it’s true, they use it exclusively for medicinal purposes. Just imagine - an altitude of 6230m, night, a tent and the deafening crash of a giant icefall overhead. Well, what better thing can you think of for chronic constipation? But for me personally, on the pillow where it is installed Camp 3, I didn’t even want to stop. If we return once again to the topic of therapeutic purposes, then I personally regard my mountaineering activities in recent years (Chegem 2005, Lenina 2006, Ama Dablam 2007) as a good fitness program. Indeed, many articles have been written about the benefits of physical exercise under hypoxic conditions. From my own experience, I can say that weight decreases, joints stop cracking and hurting, and in general health problems fade into the background. So, dear veterans, stop complaining about life, take the youth and start leading them to the mountains. Firstly, everything will work out for you, and secondly, if not us, then who? And if you think that there are now enough qualified instructors, then go to the training camp. You will “like”...
As I already wrote, by 16-00 we went down to Camp 2, and then it turned out that there were no free sites. I had to tinker with setting up the tent. But we started trying to sleep early. I slept quite well, and when I woke up not very early in the morning, I watched the group walking along the pre-summit ridge right through the window of the tent. And you know, it turns out that it’s very nice, lying in a warm sleeping bag, to watch the people who are working on the route you took yesterday. But all good things must come to an end. Therefore, we had to pack up, load everything we had carried on ourselves and go down. In a couple of hours we went down to Camp 1, there we loaded up with the things we had left and in the evening we went down to Pangboche. There was a cake waiting for us, our friends, and for me personally (experience is a great thing) my wife was already waiting there. But that's a completely different story...

Duration: 28 days

Kilometers: 120 km

Altitude difficulty: 7 out of 10

Technical difficulty: 7 out of 10

Meeting point: Kathmandu

Finish location: Kathmandu

Line: Kathmandu - Lukla - Namche Bazaar - Dingboche - Island Peak BC - Island Peak (6,189m) - Chukung - Ama Dablam BC - Ama Dablam (6,856m) - Tyangboche - Namche - Lukla - Kathmandu

Ama Dablam is one of the the most beautiful peaks planets! Business card the Khumbu Valley and all of Nepal, a “must do” for anyone who is seriously interested in climbing. Ama Dablam is a dream peak, as beautiful as it is difficult. This is a real challenge that only the strongest and most experienced can do.

To acclimatize before such a serious peak, we will climb the most popular Nepalese six-thousander - Island Peak (6,189 m). It also has some technical complexity, which will allow you not only to adapt to the height, but also to further develop your skills in working with special equipment.

Our path will partially pass along one of the most famous and popular treks in Nepal, to. From the village of Dingboche, overlooking the 8000-meter Lhotse, we will go to BL Island Peak. After climbing to Island, we will move to the Ama Dablam base camp and, with good acclimatization, we will set out for the main ascent.

We will (try) to climb two six-thousanders in one program. This is a most valuable experience and a good addition to your climbing history.

Climbing Ama Dablam- this is a very serious test even for skilled climbers. Experience of peaks over 6000 meters (Mera Peak, Aconcagua) or Elbrus/Kazbek/Mont Blanc in the off-season or winter is required. Experience of technically challenging peaks such as the Matterhorn is highly desirable. You will need excellent coordination, skills in moving along the railings, working with a jumar and a descender. Our guides will definitely provide instructions, check and help improve your skills.

The group is led by at least 2 Couloir guides. An experienced Nepalese Sherpa guide, a climber of many eight-thousanders and several Sherpa porters will definitely work with the group.

IMPORTANT! You can join a group only for the ascent to Island Peak. Cost: $1480, dates: 10.26-11.13.2018

• The main climbing guide is “Golden Ice Axe,” a world champion in the high-altitude class, who has more than 100 peaks of varying difficulty and height. There will also be a second Couloir guide and a Nepalese Sherpa guide, a climber of many eight-thousanders.
• Climbing guarantee. It is very important for us that, having gone to the mountain with us once, the next time you will no longer be looking for someone to go with. We will do everything possible to ensure that the ascent takes place and all participants ascend and descend safely from the summit. But if for any reason the ascent fails, we will refund you 15% of the cost of participation in favor of any future ascents of the Couloir during the calendar year.
• You will not only get impressions, but also acquire new skills and abilities in mountaineering. The guide’s task is not just to take the participant to the mountain, but also to train and prepare for more difficult ascents.
• A well-thought-out program with excellent acclimatization and a gradual increase in difficulty. In case of bad weather, we set aside two reserve days; between ascents there is always a day of rest in the green zone.
• (6,189 m) is the most popular Nepalese trekking peak, where you can additionally practice moving along the railings and snow-ice slopes, and get the necessary acclimatization.
• Climbing Ama Dablam (6,814 m), one of the most beautiful and difficult peaks of Nepal, along the classic route

Cost of climbing Ama Dablam - 4,270 .

• The price includes:
• Services of the main Russian-speaking guide
• Assistant guide services
• Accompaniment by an experienced Russian-speaking guide throughout the route
• Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (4 nights)
• Accommodation in lodges along the route
• Accommodation in a tent camp during ascents
• Team of porters for carrying public equipment
• Individual meeting at the airport
• Partial meals - breakfasts in Kathmandu, breakfast and dinner in tent camps on the climb
• Permit to climb Ama Dablam
• Permit to climb Island Peak
• TIMS and entry permit to Sagarmatha National Park
• Use of handrails
• All necessary public equipment (high-altitude tents, gas burners, gas, ropes, individual bag for each participant)
• Group first aid kit
• *KuluarClimbing guarantee - we will return 15% of the cost if you do not climb Ama Dablam
• Consultations on preparation for the trek, climbing, selection of equipment, training and physical preparation
• Help with purchasing air tickets

• The price does not include:
• Airfare to Nepal (from $400-600)
• Domestic flight Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu (320-350 dollars)
• Rent of personal special equipment - crampons, ice axes, systems...
• Nepal visa ($50)
• Porter for personal equipment (about $150 for the entire trek for 12 kg of cargo)
• Mandatory mountaineering insurance (includes helicopter evacuation)
• Summit bonus - $150 per person. This is a bonus and your gratitude to the guide for his work, given only if you reach the top
• Tips for porters - $50-70
• Meals on the track ($15-30 per day, depending on appetite)
• Excursions on free days after climbing
• All expenses not specified in the program (force majeure, evacuation)

The total amount of additional expenses will be: approximately $500 for food, $150 for a personal porter + air travel. Be sure to bring about $300-500 on top for unforeseen expenses.

IMPORTANT! The decision on the possibility or impossibility of continuing the ascent is made exclusively by the guides, is mandatory and is not subject to discussion. We are interested in as many of our participants as possible reaching the top, but safety always comes first!

Payment procedure

Full payment for the program occurs on the first day of the hike to the guide in dollars.

To reserve a place in a group, you must make an advance payment of $800. You can do this by contacting us or through the payment form on the website>>

Important! Conditions for the return of prepayment if you refuse to participate in the program:

• More than 40 days before the start: the prepayment in full is retained on your balance or returned, minus the transfer system commission
• From two weeks to 40 days: the prepayment is returned or remains on the balance minus the actual expenses that we incurred (permits, transfers, tickets for a second guide..)
• Less than two weeks before the start: the prepayment is retained by us in full and is non-refundable

If you leave the route, the money will not be returned.

*The KuluarClimbing guarantee means that if you do not reach the summit, we will credit your bonus account with a percentage of the cost (depending on the program) in favor of further ascents. It can be used both for this and other ascending programs during the calendar year. After the expiration date, it burns out.

Changes in the program

Depending on weather conditions, condition and general wishes of the group, the guide has the right to make changes to the route. The guide's decisions are binding and non-negotiable.

Weather conditions

Weather conditions are one of the most important factors for a successful ascent. The weather in the mountains changes very quickly. To summarize, it’s usually good in the morning, but deteriorates in the evening. At altitude in the evening and at night it is very cold, the temperature “feels like” (taking into account the strength of the wind) can drop to -20 - -25 Celsius. There is often sun during the day, and at such altitudes it is especially dangerous. The sun's rays reflect off the snow and you burn instantly. Don't forget to take sunscreen!

Required documents

A visa to Nepal is issued directly at the border, the cost of a visa for 30 days of stay is $50. Detailed instructions according to design. To obtain a visa, you only need a valid passport, which is valid for more than 6 months from the date of return flight.

To participate in the hike, you must not have any diseases from this list >>

Where to next?

Climbing Ama Dablam is one of the most difficult programs. Seven- and eight-thousanders await you ahead.

• - 7,134 m, the most technically simplest seven-thousander in the Pamirs
• Climbing Manaslu - 8,163 m, a relatively simple and technically accessible eight-thousander

Upcoming dates for climbing Ama Dablam

Day 1. Meeting in Kathmandu

You can arrive at any time, on flights convenient for you. At the exit from the airport you will be met by our guide or Nepalese assistant. In the evening, the guides will hold a briefing, and at dinner the participants will get to know each other.

Day 2. Preparation for the ascent

We are closing all organizational issues and preparing for the ascent to Ama Dablam. The guides will check the equipment of each participant, and for those who do not have enough, we will buy everything in addition. If you have free time and desire, we’ll take a walk to the Swayambhunath monkey temple, which offers excellent views of Kathmandu!

Day 3. Flight to Lukla, transfer to Phakding

Departure to Lukla on early flights. Meeting with Nepalese guide, liaison officer and porters. In Lukla (2800 m) we will spend several hours repacking luggage, buying gas and completing formalities. The guides will do this, and for now the participants will be able to eat in one of the lodges. Then we will go to Phakding (2600 m), where we will stop for the night. The trek is 8 km and will take about three hours.

Day 4. Trek to Namche Bazaar

From Phakding we will climb along the picturesque Dudh Kosi gorge to the capital of the Sherpas, Namche (3440). On the way we will get our first view of Everest and Lhotse. Here we will stay in a lodge and take a light walk to the monument to Tensing Norgay, the first climber of Everest.

Day 5. Acclimatization trip to Kumjung

So that our body has time to adapt to new heights, we take a day in Namche. This does not mean that we will sit still - quite the opposite. Today we will visit the famous Everest View Hotel, walk around the village of Kumjung, where the Yeti scalp is kept, and climb to the Hillary Memorial (4000 m). All day long we will be accompanied by views of the highest peaks of the Himalayas - Everest (8,848 m), Lhotse (8,516 m), Nuptse (7,861 m). But visually the highest and most beautiful peak will be Ama Dablam, climbing which is the main goal of our trip to Nepal.

Day 6. Trek to Tyangboche

Admiring the giant peaks surrounding us, we will reach the legendary monastery in Tyangboche (3860). Here, or a little lower in the village of Deboche, we will stop for the night. In Tyangboche we will try to get to the puja and ask the gods for a successful ascent to Ama Dablam and Island Peak!

Day 7. Transfer to Dingboche

Along a beautiful path winding through the rhododendron forest, we go down to the bridge over the river, after which the long climb to Pangboche begins. All day long we will be accompanied by views of Everest and Lhotse, but it is Ama Dablan that fascinates us - a dream peak for many climbers. Gradually we will leave the forest area and come to the village of Dingboche (4350), where we will spend the night.

Day 8. Acclimatization day

We will gradually and easily gain altitude on nearby peaks. For the first time during the program, we will cross the 5000 m mark. All the time we will have views of the surrounding eight-thousanders, as well as Nuptse, Baruntse and the Island and Ama Dablam themselves. The black pyramid of Makalu (8,485 m) will appear in the distance.

Day 9. Trek to Chukung

A short trek to Chukung (about 3 hours) to an altitude of 4750. After this, we will again go to the radial exit for the next portion of active acclimatization.

Day 10. Trek to Island Peak base camp

From Chukung we go to Sun Island Peak (5087). We rest, with the help of guides we adjust and check the equipment.

Day 11. Island Peak Assault Camp

From the aircraft we will ascend to the assault camp at 5600. Here we will check the equipment and condition of the group. Tomorrow early departure to the summit!

Day 12. Climbing Island Peak

We leave in the dark. By the light of flashlights we climb up a steep stone couloir, which will lead us to a sharp edge. Immediately behind the edge, a snow-ice plateau begins. Along the way there will be a large crack, which we will overcome using the stairs. Next is a flatter section and a sharp, almost vertical takeoff of 150-200 meters.

This is where we'll have a great time! We reach the sharp pre-summit ridge, a few tens of meters - and we are at the top!

On the same day we will try to go down to Chukung.

Day 13. Reserve day in case of bad weather

We will do everything in our power to climb the mountain. But the weather can make its own adjustments. In this case, we have a reserve day.

Day 14. Descent to Pangboche

We leave early to have more time to rest. We descend to Pangboche (3,900 m). The rest of the day we just rest and recover in the green zone.

Day 15. Rest day

We continue to gain strength and breathe oxygen-rich air below 4000 meters in Pangboche :-). On the main climb we will need all our strength! During the day, the guides will again check all equipment before heading out to Ama-Dably.

Day 16. Ama Dablam Base Camp

From Pangboche we leave for the Ama Dablam Air Force Station (4500). We settle down in the tents of the base camp.

Day 17. Transition to ABC

Today we climb to the advanced base camp (ABC) at an altitude of 5100. The path will pass along the glacier moraine surrounded by many snowy peaks.

Day 18. Transfer to Camp 1

From ABC we will climb to the 1st camp (5670) directly on the SE ridge. Today we will be walking along rocks and the first steep sections. On this day you can see what Ama Dablam is so famous for - the depth of the surrounding cliffs and the steepness of the ridges!

Day 19. Transfer to Camp 2

We climb along the rocky ridge to camp 2 (5944). The movement occurs along the railings on the clamps, since the terrain is quite complex. Inspiring views, challenging terrain and, to cap off the day, the unique Camp 2, which is located on top of a rocky gendarme tower.

Day 20. Transfer to Camp 3 (assault)

We rise to the third assault camp (6300). Today we are waiting for a real alpine combined terrain: rocks, ice, snow, movement along bizarre ridges and ice walls. The climb is not easy, and the overnight stay is high. But it will save us time during the decisive exit tomorrow.

Day 21. Climbing Ama Dablam 6856 m

The decisive day of the entire expedition is the day of the assault. We leave early and move along the famous hanging glacier. Further flatter snowy slopes take us to the huge snow field of the peak! From here Everest, Lhotse and other peaks seem very close! We take photos, spend some time at the top (depending on the weather) and begin our descent. We are trying to go down to one of the lower camps.

Day 22. Descent to base camp

We continue our descent to base camp. Only here can we finally congratulate each other on the successful ascent of Ama Dablam! We're great!

Day 23. Reserve day in case of bad weather

Day 24. Trek to Namche

We leave early, today we have a long trek to Namche Bazaar, where we will finally have all the benefits of civilization: a comfortable lodge, shower, coffee, cakes and good internet.

Day 25. Transfer to Lukla

We return to Lukla along the already familiar path.

Day 26. Flight to Kathmandu

We are trying to catch an early flight to Kathmandu. We check into a hotel, unpack our equipment and relax.

Day 27. Visiting the sights of Kathmandu

Today we have a free program, during which the guides will help organize visits to attractions of interest: Buddhanath stupa, Monkey Temple, visit ancient city Bhaktapur etc. In case of bad weather in the mountains, we can use this day as a reserve day.

In the evening there is a farewell dinner and presentation of Couloir certificates.

Day 28. Flight home

The ascent to Ama Dablam is completed. We will try to obtain official certificates from the Nepalese Mining Association today and present them to you. We recommend booking tickets for evening flights, as this day can be used as another reserve day.

Preparing to climb Ama Dablam

Climbing Ama Dablam is a very difficult program both technically and physically. The considerable height, complemented by great technical difficulty, makes climbing Ama Dablam a real challenge even for experienced climbers. You will need excellent physical shape and the ability to use special equipment.

Ama Dablam is a real challenge that only the strongest and most determined can do!

We strongly recommend that you carefully approach the issue of preparation. Start running 3-5 months before your planned ascent. Running 10 km at a relaxed pace should not be difficult for you. If it is possible to measure your pulse, run with a pulse in the region of 130-140 beats per minute. If this is not possible, run at a pace at which you can speak. Be sure to sign up for a climbing gym and go to training 2-3 times a week. You will need strong hands and skillful coordination.

Taking part in the ascent is simple: you need to fill out a participant form, wait for our confirmation and buy tickets, collect necessary equipment and arrive at the meeting point on time. But passing the selection is more difficult. We will only take on the team those who really have a chance of reaching the top, based on the experience of previous ascents. We'll definitely talk in person.

Experience from previous ascents

To participate in the ascent of Ama Dablam, you must have climbed one of the peaks above 6000 meters or 5-k in the off-season, as well as a technical peak of the Matterhorn level. And in order to climb 6000, you need to climb 5000. In total, you get at least three ascents, which can be divided into blocks.

First high altitude experience

• - 5,033 m, the most accessible five-thousander
• - 4,810 m, low peak, but has some technical difficulty
• - 5,642 m, needs no introduction, included in the Seven Summits program
• - 5,895 m, highest peak Africa, part of the Seven Summits program
• - routes with altitudes from 5000 meters

Climbing non-technical peaks above 6000 meters

• - 6,189 m, the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. If you are preparing for Ama Dablam, then it is better to choose another mountain, because climbing Island is included in our program for climbing Ama Dablam. Why repeat?
• - 6,461 m, the highest trekking peak in Nepal
• - 6,962 m, highest peak South America, part of the "Seven Summits" program
• - 7,134 m, the most technically simplest seven-thousander in the Pamirs. But it won’t be easy!
• Climbing Elbrus or Mont Blanc in the off-season

Technically challenging climb

• Climbing the Matterhorn from Italy - program coming soon to the website
• Traverse of Mont Blanc in March - program coming soon to the website

Without the necessary experience, participation in the ascent to Ama Dablam is not possible.

Drink vitamins

Two weeks before the start of the program, start taking vitamins, for example, Vitrum Energy or Ginsomin. They are designed for increased physical activity and will help better prepare your body for the climb.

IMPORTANT!

The guide has the right not to allow you to participate in the program if your equipment does not correspond to what is recommended on the site. For example, if instead of mountain boots you took sneakers or rubber boots.

Please be as responsible as possible when collecting equipment. Not only your health, but also the comfortable passage of the route by the group as a whole depends on this!

WE RECOMMEND 🔔

When packing your backpack, put all your things in plastic bags (you can use trash bags), this will protect them from getting wet in case of heavy rain or snow.

On a hike, there is nothing worse than a wet sleeping bag; put it in the strongest bag that will definitely not tear. Also, pack warm clothes, especially down ones, very carefully. Stay dry and enjoy the adventure!

List of equipment for climbing Ama Dablam

Climbing Ama Dablam is a challenging high-altitude program. You need to approach the selection of equipment with all responsibility, because it depends on whether you return safe and healthy from the expedition. You need to have with you:

Shoes

• High altitude boots. It is most reliable to have three-layer boots for climbing 8000 m. Plastic or two-layer boots are also suitable. Keep in mind that plastics are less convenient and comfortable.
• Trekking boots - semi-high, hard, well worn. Article: " "
• Trekking sandals, crocs - for easy trails and relaxing in the camp

Cloth

• Light headgear - cap, buff
• Warm hat - ideal ones are sold in Kathmandu for 2-3 dollars
• Fleece gloves
• Warm mountain mittens for climbing (tops) - with safety cords
• Warm down jacket, always with a hood
• Down or artificially insulated pants.
• A good membrane jacket with ventilation, a windproof “skirt” and a hood. The hood should fit over the helmet without restricting movement.
• Good self-venting membrane pants or with ventilation
• Lightweight trekking pants
• Light dress for beautiful photos
• Shorts
• Warm fleece or Polartek
• Light fleece
• Fleece sleep suit (or “non-active” thermal suit)
• A set of good active thermal underwear - for movement. Article: " "
• T-shirts - 2-3 pieces
• Trekking socks - 5 pairs. We use Nepali ones for $1.5 per pair.
• Wool socks - 1 pair for sleeping
• Shoe covers (flashlights)
• Changeable underwear

Equipment

• Warm sleeping bag. Comfort temperature is -10 for men and -15 °C for girls. Article: " "
• Lightweight trekking backpack for 40-45 l. Article: " "
• Mat, preferably inflatable
• Good sunglasses (SPF 4) in a hard case
• Sun protection mask with protection factor 2-4
• Microfiber towel
• Thermos 0.5-0.7 l
• A good headlamp with a spare set of batteries for climbing
• Good trekking poles. Article: " "
• Personal first aid kit. The contents of a personal first aid kit are here: " "
• Sun cream with protection of at least 50 units
• Hygienic lipstick
• Moisturizing hand cream
• Stock of wet sanitary napkins
• Toilet paper
• Documents, money - in sealed packaging
• Camera, phone
• A set of personal goodies - Snickers, nuts. Small, weighing up to 1 kg
• Small toys, candy for local children

Individual special equipment for climbing:

• The lower harness is lightweight, with the ability to adjust the size on the leg loops and several shelf loops for carabiners. Virtually all modern systems will do
• Two lanyards - can be either from a rope or sewn from a sling or belay loops
• Any helmet will do, as long as it fits well. Choose one that is lighter and of a size so that you can wear a hat/buff under the helmet
• Carabiners - 4 pcs with coupling. One larger and three as light as possible in medium size. It should be easy to close and open with gloves
• Zhumar - a clamp for moving along a rope. Available for left and right hands, take it for your work
• Descender device (glass, basket, ATS guide)
• A good ice ax or ice tool
• Cats - 12-tooth steel. Definitely with anti-sticks, preferably automatic or semi-automatic. We recommend fitting your boots in advance, but just a little, the guides will help with this.

All personal equipment for climbing can be rented in Kathmandu. The entire set will cost approximately $120-150 for the duration of the entire expedition.

Tablets (in addition to the personal first aid kit)

There are no miracle pills that will save you from altitude sickness. The main thing here is smooth and competent acclimatization. Some pills can speed it up and make it easier. If you are confident in your abilities, taking pills is not at all necessary.

• Diacarb, Acetezelomide - the active ingredient of Diamax. Start taking one tablet in the morning the day before going to altitude (upon arrival in Lukla). Diuretic, lowers internal pressure. According to our personal observations, it really helps participants tolerate heights better. Contraindicated in the presence of renal failure
• Hypoxen - recommended for elevated physical activity, including mountain climbing
• Vitamins - will prepare your body for stress, compensate for vitamin deficiency in the mountain diet. Start taking two weeks before the start.

Dates from October 15 to November 7, 2019

The cost of a full package of services using ONE guide for ONE participant is $5000

The cost of a full package of services using ONE high-altitude guide for TWO participants is $4200

The cost of the full package using ONE high-altitude guide for THREE participants is $3900

Pay attention to the services included in the package!!!

There are already 5 members in the group!

We invite you to take part in the international expedition to Ama-Dablam (6890). Visit the most popular Peak of the Himalayas with Makalu Extrem guides! Our guides, without exaggeration, are one of the the best guides planets. We will make your touch to the Himalayas unforgettable!

The cost of the full package of services is $5000 using one high-altitude guide for one participant

The cost of the full package of services is $4200 using one high-altitude guide for two participants

THE PRICE OF THE FULL PACKAGE INCLUDES:

Russian-speaking guide-consultant - Chatur Taman G

G hotel in Kathmandu (4 nights) + breakfast;

Permit for climbing Mt. Ama-Dablam 6812

One guide per one (each) participant (climber 10-15 8000+)

Costs for a liaison officer;

Solar battery at Base Camp

Heater in the base camp dining tent;

Kitchen tent;

Kitchen equipment;

Dining tent;

Toilet;

Shower;

Satellite phone for emergency communication with the ground

Walkie Talkie

Cook and his assistant;

Tents for accommodation at base camp: one tent per participant

Accommodation and meals in high-altitude camps 1, 2, 3,

Equipment and equipment for high-altitude camps;

All transfers according to the program within Nepal;

Personnel insurance;

Railings on the route

Group climbing equipment.

We and all our guides have experience in climbing many eight-thousanders.

Attention! When purchasing a package of 1 guide for two, the carrying of things is partially carried out by the participants.

NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE:

Summit bonus for reaching the top - $600

Meals and accommodation on the Lukla-Base Camp-Lukla trek

Personal climbing insurance;

City tours;

Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu

Personal equipment,

Personal first aid kit;

International flight

Alcoholic and soft drinks.

Traveling along a route separately from a group

And now a few reasons why to come with us:

1. Each of our groups is accompanied by one of the co-owners of the company - Chatur Tamang 8x 8000+ or ​​Oksana Morneva 8x 8000+

2. The price of our package includes the flight Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu

3. The price of our package includes one guide for one participant or one guide for two participants (and not one for three or five, as in other companies)

4. The price of our package includes carrying the participants’ personal belongings to the Base Camp and back - 30 kg for each participant

5. We and all our guides are members of the Nepal Mountaineering Federation and therefore you will not have to pay for the permit and other official expenses of your tour leader.

6. We always conclude an official agreement, on the basis of which we work.

COME!!! WE WILL BE VERY GLAD TO MEET YOU!!!

All materials on the site are the property of Makalu Extreme Treks& Expeditions Pvt. Ltd.

Route thread

Kathmandu – Lukla – Namche Bazar – Tyangboche – Pangboche – Ama Dablam Base Camp – Pangboche – Namche Bazar – Lukla – Kathmandu

The tour price includes

Expedition leader with experience in successful ascents of Ama Dablam
AlpIndustry guides at the rate of 1 guide for 2-3 people
3* hotel in Kathmandu (2 nights before the expedition and 2 nights after the expedition)
Tents for high altitude camps (one for 2-3 participants in each high altitude camp)
Dishes, gas, cooking burner
Permit (permission) to climb Ama Dablam
Permit to visit national park Sagarmatha
Regional permit Khumbu
Accommodation on the track in guesthouses
All transfers according to the program
Group first aid kit
Payment for the use of a railing rope
Gas cylinders - 5 pieces per participant
Gas burners - 1 piece per high-altitude camp tent
Public equipment (ropes, ice screws, pitons, rock hammers, bookmarks, etc.)
Radio stations

The tour price does not include

Nepal visa ($50)
International flight to Kathmandu (from 33,000 rubles)
Flight Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu (about $350)
Meals in Kathmandu and during the trek ($25-30 per day), high-altitude meals
Excursions to Kathmandu ($10-15)
Change of accommodation conditions (single occupancy)
Tips for service staff
Medical climbing insurance (required for each participant)
Conducting search and rescue and transportation operations
Personal high-altitude porter to the top (approximately $1700)
Tips for the high-altitude guide-porter ($500)
Porters for carrying personal belongings of the participant and tents ($20/day)
Airport taxes and fees for excess weight (over 15 kg) on ​​domestic flights

Required documents

A passport valid for at least 6 months after the end of the trip.
Nepal visa - issued upon arrival at Kathmandu airport.
Permit - special permission to climb Ama Dablam (included in the price).

Safety

Safety on the route is ensured by our experienced guides at the rate of 1 guide for 2-3 people. We provide the necessary first aid kit for medical care. But we also recommend that you bring your own first aid kit with specific medications. A necessary condition for participation in the expedition is that the participant has special mountaineering medical insurance.

Accommodation/Hotels

In Kathmandu - Samsara Resort 3* hotel or similar, double occupancy.
On the trek - accommodation in lodges (buildings similar to mountain shelters, quite comfortable), double occupancy.
During the ascent - accommodation in tents (from Base Camp and above).

At the hotel in Kathmandu, meals are on a breakfast basis. Kathmandu has many restaurants and cafes, where both European and local cuisine (Nepalese, Tibetan) are widely represented. A standard dinner without alcohol costs about $18-20. On the trek, meals can be ordered at the lodges ($25-30/day). Products for climbing are purchased by the participants themselves or by the guide in agreement with the participants. Participants cook their own food under the guidance of a guide in high-altitude camps using gas burners.