Lighthouse on Cape Demon Nose. Petroglyphs of Cape Demon Nose. Famous petroglyphs of Karelia

During the geo-wedding Journey, DidJ+ OFF-SEASON and the shepherd Brik broke through to Besovo Nos on June 12 with one car of a cornfield.

The weather was great that day, sunny and calm. The road from Karshevo to the first wooden bridge can be passed by any belly rider in this weather. Then the ruts begin, like in a fairy tale - the further you go, the worse)) But we drove along calmly, almost not noticing them. Before the first sandy ford we saw a party in the forest - several St. Petersburg cars, all 4x4s.

Somewhere in the middle of the road we met four more Patriots and traces of a struggle for the road in front of such a long, opaque sausage. Well, one patriot went first (we looked at it first), and we followed him. Then he stayed to wait for his people, and we left and didn’t see them again. Although we stood for a long time on the bank of the Chernaya River, in a pretty clearing.
And then we drove on. Towards an Adventure that might not have happened if we were not us)))

DidJ's shift was driving that day. And so he steers along nice paths, passing light sausages calmly, steering, steering, steering... Apparently, he relaxed)) I look - a right turn, after a couple of tens of meters another one, and then another.
And then... three ruts from VERY_BIG_WHEELS appear on our road and the most severe traces of a struggle for the road)) or for life...
Each pair of ruts was buried in, dare I say it, a pool of liquid gray mud...
I say - Andryukh, there seemed to be a detour there, to the right. Something’s not right here, it seems to me... But DidJ waved his hand and said, “Let’s go,” let’s try. Maybe it's okay here)))
And dashingly like a hippopotamus plopped into the middle “pond”, from which our Siberian Crane no longer had the strength to jump out...

But what coherence in the crew’s actions! DidJ jumps through the window to the winch, unwinds and drags forward, hooks the bark protector and winch. Jumping over to the pilot's seat, I turn on the remote control and begin to stretch out... but I give up))) I need to take a picture of this whole thing))) And then Andryukha took a camera to also capture it from the outside (yes, we are crazy, but no one claims, that we are healthy)))
Then we stretch out without any difficulty, and the computer, in a nasty female voice, screams about errors, and about the temperature of 106 degrees... the dirt turned out to be never healing, but on the contrary) We are out of generator and fans!!
It was not good... They danced with a tambourine for some time. As a result, the fan started working, one, but the generator... “his vision never returned” (c))))
And we were in a hurry all the way to Onega without much fun, because the radiator, clogged with this crap, was getting incredibly hot, charging wasn’t going on, and the fans weren’t working fully. Almost at the end, another long piece of mud was discovered, which had already been carefully examined and measured, because now there was no way to do any more adventures.

In general, DidJ+ OFF-SEASON and Ovchar Brik broke through to Besovo Nos on June 12 with one car and were immensely surprised... by the presence of SO many people on the shore!!! That's tough))

At the Istra or Mozhaisk reservoir (very_close_to_Moscow) there are fewer camps and cars on a hot Saturday in July!!! It was so sudden that...what...what... there are simply no words))) At the entrance there was a huge camp of UAZ patriots and, apparently, their sympathizers, about 50 cars in total!
Well, we drove through the sandy hill, and there... Oh, damn... There was a pickup club meeting. And also 30 cars!! Moreover, more came after us!!
All along the shore there were groups of various different tourists, and the boatmen arrived, both on foot and non-club people, in three to five cars. It was very crowded.
We managed to take the last free place, it seems) right at the entrance and the toilet)) but nothing, somehow we survived.
DJ was correcting the consequences of the flooding, it was not possible to flush the radiator properly, one fan still did not come to life, after replacing the diode bridge, life seemed to appear in the generator, you can go.

We stayed there for two days and had a great time on the shore. Onega is beautiful... We were lucky with the weather - we arrived in the sun, the evening was quiet and beautiful, the night was almost white)) In the morning there was a little rain, but then there was a strong wind and bright sun! The wind died down in the afternoon, Onega turned on complete calm, in the evening it was also calm and calm, the sunset was very beautiful. There were no mosquitoes or other midges (only along the road, in the forest). In general, we had a great walk - we went to some Petroglyphs, to a lighthouse, found it, looked at it, marveled)
In the evening we went to Perinos, where we found several more groups of Petroglyphs. I was especially struck by the images of scenes of farewell and/or greeting to the UFO!! Curious.
We also found a piquant and indecent petroglyph;)

But on the day of our departure the weather ended)) From the very early morning a gray, light, hopeless rain began to fall. Everything around became somewhat autumnal... At first we waited, then the time completely ran out, we had to fold in the rain.
The way back after the rains and all the participants of the patriot rally and half of the pickup club had already left for the departure changed a lot :) Everything was shaken up in Zyuzya!!
And in comparison with the field, the cars that passed there before us are like loaded timber trucks on evil, toothy wheels))) But we drove through, nothing. Once the winch was unwound, right at the entrance to the forest - after the last parade of 4x4s, it became just some kind of sea there))

Then I burned out the clutch while jumping out of a small bridge (the last one, how to go there and the first one from there), Our generator died again, Didge rebuilt it again (twice!!), the radiator was still heating up... in general, we walked back in just over 4 hours... In front of the bridge there was still a large crowd of St. Petersburg cars “vs 4x4”, mostly UAZs, but there was also a Niva - the first Niva that we came across in those parts))
Why they stood there and didn’t go to Demon Nose is unclear.

And according to black river motorboats were constantly sailing... Now I want to sail there on such a boat someday :) because the river is pretty, and you can see it just a little bit.
By the way, it is possible that this will be more economically profitable in principle)) Well, if you are not going there on vacation for two weeks, but just for a walk for a day or two. Gasoline is not free, but the point is different. You can wreck your car on this road with half a kick, and the repairs won’t cost much. Even to the cornfield;) It’s not particularly interesting to go there on foot, it seems to me. Broken ruts and mosquitoes, without much aesthetics (well, with the exception of mushroom pickers and berry pickers in season, but this is a special case).

But if you arrive there specifically to walk around beautiful places and most importantly - see the Petroglyphs - then by boat great option. So think about what's best for you. Although I think for myself that at least once you have to get there by car and go back, then you can do it differently.
But you should definitely look at the petroglyphs.

The container itself was found on the way back, on June 14. They didn’t take anything - there was nothing to put in return, all the goodies were out of reach due to the arrival of shit in the salon)))
_______________________________
P.S. My demonic nose old dream. I’ve wanted to get here for years and have to get there by car. For me, this point seemed somehow inaccessible and getting to it meant accomplishing some kind of feat.
I was wrong) No feat, the Gzhatsky tract is much more difficult.
And now this place cannot be called wild, inaccessible. But still, the place is of amazing beauty, and the presence of mysterious Petroglyphs makes it unique.

This was the first traditional cache we took on our geo-wedding trip!

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(izvozshik)

Demon Nose. Cape on east coast Lake Onega. A place where the weather changes according to your mood. The cape, on the edge of which our ancestors left us a message five thousand years ago. The cape that showed the fishermen the way home. The cape, which is guarded by the Bes himself...

And it's all true.

Today Besov Nos belongs to the Murom Nature Reserve. Here are the famous petroglyphs of Karelia (remember the message?).

Petroglyphs are rock carvings from the ancient Eneolithic era (Copper Age). And the cape owes its name to the largest drawing depicting a mysterious figure resembling a man about 2 meters in size. The monks of the Murom Monastery dubbed him a demon in the 15th century. And in order to protect people from demonic power, they drew a cross on it.

Cape Besov Nos

Famous Imp

holy cross

Despite the fact that there are more than a thousand petroglyphs here, and they are the richest in Scandinavia and one of the richest in Russia, there are not as many ubiquitous tourists here as, for example, at other petroglyphs in Karelia, in Belomorsk. It's all about the location. This text was stolen from the Roads of the World website (site)!

Petroglyphs of Karelia. Demon Nose

Petroglyphs of Karelia. Demon Nose

You can get here through the waters of Lake Onega - but there is no place for tourist ships to moor here.

Or along the Chernaya River from the village of Karsheva - and only small boats with motors will pass along it.

Either by the roads to Besov Nos from the village of Karshevo or from the village of Shalsky. But the roads here are of such quality that only a prepared SUV can pass. It is this circumstance that attracts off-road fans here. Every self-respecting jeeper, once in Karelia, tries to go to Demon Nos.

Naturally, I have long wanted to go this route. To be honest, I was ready to walk 2000 km just to visit Demon Nose. And naturally, the Demon Nose has become an indispensable element of our.

We planned to arrive from Karshevo and leave from Shalsky. Although moving from the north of Karelia, it was more convenient to do the opposite. But the fact is that after Karshevo there is a bridge across the river, which is broken year after year (according to rumors, the residents of the village of Karshevo themselves - for them, transporting people by boat to Besov Nos is their income). And restless jeepers restore. And so, a month before our trip, we received information that the crossing had been completely destroyed. And in order to have a normal road to retreat, we decided to start from Karshevo.

The beginning of the way

Shore of Lake Onega

The start to Karshevo took place on the morning of July 2nd. Having passed the village and reached the bridge, we saw confirmation of the information - the bridge was destroyed. One of the two load-bearing beams was cut down, on which logs and boards were thrown for the passage of cars. And it was clear that this was done on purpose. It is possible to drive an ATV, but not a car. It’s unrealistic for the two of us to quickly restore the crossing - it’s a shame, it’s annoying, but okay...

Destroyed bridge in Karshevo

Destroyed bridge in Karshevo

Spinning in a circle, we went ashore in the village of Shalsky, released the tires, prepared the winch and moved along the shore of Onega to the south - to Besov Nos. Having passed the first section along the coast, it was time to enter the forest. Here we met a group of hikers – locals, they said. After exchanging greetings, they started a comic argument about who would get to Demon Nose first.

At the start from the village of Shalsky

A stone trial has begun in the forest. Roma had to dismount - the navigator must navigate the car without loss. This was no longer possible while sitting in the cabin. The filly evenly rolled over the stones, squeezed between the trees, scraped with its defenses...

On my way…

So we got to the transition from stones to mud. True, there wasn’t much dirt, but the Kobylka grabbed the diagonal (the moment when one of the wheels of the front and rear axles leaves the ground at the same time, a regular car does not move). Here we were rescued by the rigid locking of the front axle (an additionally installed element of the car transmission that rigidly connects the wheels on one axle; without this element, if one wheel comes off, the second one will not be able to rotate - and the car will stand still) - we got out without a winch. And then there was more mud, more stones, a deep hole, a steep sandy descent to the shore of Onega...

While passing the next section along the shore of Onega, we overtook hikers. So they walked and walked. Overcoming the next ambush point, we stopped, had a smoke, exchanged delight and moved on... Gee, Romka was walking, and I was riding Kobylka.

And I was riding on Kobylka

And so, having passed the extreme section, we came to the shore of Lake Onega. Demon Nose is literally a kilometer away from us - you can see it. It is this place, under the sign “Murom Reserve”, that is considered the final point of passage to Besov Nos. Our joy from achieving our goal knew no bounds. The distance of 20 kilometers from the village of Shalsky to Cape Besov Nos was covered in three hours, without ever using a winch - the forced rigid locking of the front axle constantly helped out.

But I’ll be honest - the demon was favorable to us. Seeing our ardent desire to come visit him - the expedition was first mentioned in November 2014, it was planned for the summer of 2015, but only took place now, in the summer of 2016 - the demon did not spill a drop on the road rain for more than two weeks before our trip. All these days the weather was very warm, everything was dry...

We have reached our goal!

On the shore we met a family of ATV riders. They came from Karshevo. After talking with the head of the family, we learned that it turns out that not far from the bridge there is a ford about a meter deep, but he did not dare to cross it with the children, he drove across the bridge (a square of width was enough) - and I had hopes of walking the road from Karshevo.

ATV family

Passion since childhood

She crossed Onega

They decided to set up a camp away from the protected cape. On Besovy Nos itself and in its surroundings there are signs warning that this is a nature reserve and you cannot set up a camp here. But for some reason the hunters shoot the signs en masse - apparently, this is the only skill they have enough for. Having set up camp, we had a royal dinner with a ceremonial celebration of the event, and then went to bed - after all, before the start to Besov Nos, we had almost a 500-kilometer night run from Kem with only two hours of sleep in the car in a sitting position.

Our camp is here

Muromsky reserve. Fresh sign

PetroglyphsLake Onega: Peri Nos

The next morning, our crew went on an excursion along the waters of Lake Onega on a boat (rubber, with oars), which they brought with them, to less famous petroglyphs of Karelia than those on the Demon's Nose. After going around the island with a fisherman's house, we reached Cape Peri Nos. Here we met a lover of Karelia petroglyphs. After chatting with him, we began to look at the petroglyphs of Peri Nos ourselves. I must say that at first the drawings are not visible at all. They seem to be hiding from people: if you look, you can see them. But on the other hand, if you look at it, no. Having finished studying the petroglyphs of Cape Peri Nos, we headed to the camp. I, leisurely (I don’t know how to do anything else on a boat), rowed in the right direction, and Roma slowly flashed. True, to no avail...

Fishing Island

And then we saw a large fish - the water in Lake Onega is so transparent that the bottom is clearly visible at a depth of several meters (as in the sea, or even better). Roma, an avid fisherman, immediately became excited. But the fish did not react in any way to his spoon: “Probably peaceful,” Romka said. And Roma could no longer be stopped. Having reached the camp, Roma took an underwater gun (yes, he is also very keen on underwater hunting) and went to look for fish. Well, your humble servant, sitting in the boat and lowering the float into the water, enjoyed everything around him - even the lack of bite.

In search of petroglyphs

Petroglyphs of Karelia. Peri Nose

Famous petroglyphs of Karelia

After lunch, having rested a little, we went to visit Demon Nose itself, where the famous petroglyphs of Karelia are located. We reached the border of the reserve on Kobylka, on the way passing the ruins of the village of Besonosovka, abandoned by residents in the late 70s of the last century. The old logs are completely overgrown with grass...

Then we recovered on foot. When we climbed from the shore to the cape and walked to its tip through the forest, we saw the consequences of the storms that periodically rage on Onega - pine trees were uprooted and lying length and breadth. Some trees are old and withered. Others still cling to the soil with the remains of torn roots and turn green with separate branches.

Ruins of Besonosovka

Ruins of Besonosovka

Hurricane tracks

Finally we came to the lighthouse - it used to indicate to people which part of Lake Onega they were in and where the shore was. Now it’s just rotting - only the outer frame remains.

Old lighthouse

And here is the edge of the Demon Nose - stones going into the water. All stones are covered with inscriptions. Honestly, there are much more modern inscriptions from various tourists than there are petroglyphs themselves. Here will be a riddle for archaeologists in a couple of thousand years, what does “VAH/1933” mean.

Petroglyphs old and new

Petroglyphs of Karelia. Demon Nose

Demon Nose. Famous Imp

But here comes the Bes himself. We met him!

Fee for meeting with the Demon

Having returned to the camp, we went fishing again - Roma with a gun, me with a fishing rod. But, as during the day, no one was caught. Then we had dinner and spent a long time admiring the amazing sunset.

In the morning, hikers finally caught up with us. They lost the playful argument. And in the evening the hikers were already returning. They covered 20 kilometers in two days with one overnight stay.

Local fishermen near Cape Besov Nos

Backpacker Camp

Here we were trying to catch fish

Onega sunsets

Monday morning began with breakfast and making an important decision. On the one hand, I really wanted to cover the path to Karshev. On the other hand, there are two full days left until the end of the vacation. Run 2000 km to get home. We don't know the condition of the roads. It is unknown whether we will be able to overcome the ford. And if we don’t take the ford and have to return to Shalsky, there may not be enough gasoline for 60 kilometers of heavy off-road terrain. An off-road filly drinks gasoline as quickly as I drink beer after a long walk on a hot summer day. And we gave away part of the stock. In short - reason won - and we, having collected the camp, went back to Shalsky.

Familiar paths

We walked back quickly and confidently. The remaining question was whether a winch would be needed. Two ambush spots awaited us - a steep climb along the sand from the shore of Onega into the forest (many serious SUVs got stuck here) and a deep, steep hole with mud at the bottom.

The first obstacle was taken with good acceleration - the light weight of the Kobylka and the experience of driving on sand on Tsimla had an effect. True, the right wing was slightly bent and the navigation door began to cling to it. And we overcame the hole again by blocking - we never used the winch. When we came out to Shalsky, we were surprised to note that we had covered the path in just an hour and a half...

See you later, Bes!

The demon remained very favorable to us, although he took his own price - the wing and torn rubber bands on the lower reaction rods (the element of the rear suspension that secures the rear axle to the body).

After swimming in the waters of Lake Onega, we stopped in Pudozh, where we changed the rods (a huge plus of Shnivki - consumable spare parts in almost any car shop). And run south, home, to my native Rostov-on-Don. Crossing the border of Karelia, I received a warning from the Ministry of Emergency Situations from Megafon - a storm warning was declared for that night in this part of Lake Onega. The demon decided to show his strength...

P.S. The trip to Cape Besov Nos of Lake Onega was the final stage of the road trip “Around Two Lakes”, which we made in the summer of 2016, from June 23 to July 5, consisting of: pilot - Sergey Izvozshchik (your humble servant and correspondent for “Roads of the World”), navigator – Romixsan (Roman in the World) and my Filly – Chevrolet Niva. We belong to the southern branch of the All-Russian automobile club "Chevy-Niva Club", and live in the glorious southern city Rostov-on-Don.

So, we've arrived!
A four-day trip to the shores of Lake Onega.
Petroglyphs are older Egyptian pyramids, a half-abandoned monastery, sand spits and NOBODY.

And it all started with a terrible downpour when starting from Moscow. We took this as a good sign.
And exactly. Already in Karelia we were greeted by cloudless weather.

Having covered 850 km, according to the already established tradition, we stop at Andom Mountain.

The height of the shore is 80 m, a pleasant breeze blows from the lake, no mosquitoes and sunset

The next morning we decide to first try to get through to the Murom Monastery.
The road begins with a straight road, laid through a real swamp.

The road ends with an exit to a sandy strip along Onega, 20 kilometers long. Along it we have to get almost to the Monastery itself.

The wind is quite strong, you come across hefty logs and small rivers that you have to go around on water

Somewhere here, having decided to go around another log, Nivchik began to reverse and drove into my wing.
Picture: sea, almost straight wide flat road, not a soul for 20 kilometers around and we have an accident. Tough.

But the sandy strip ended and we had to move into the forest. Difficulties began.

It’s not deep, but there are serious stones and logs at the bottom. I had to move very carefully.
But! All this lasted about 500 meters. Then there was a smooth path right to the monastery. And they scared us...

People live in the Monastery, we saw children. There are a couple of Urals, construction is underway. Lively place.
And very picturesque. The buildings themselves are located on a small peninsula.
Piercing wind... And what space! Fantastic.

We take a report photo at the confluence of the Muromka River and Onega and have lunch.

It’s about 12 o’clock. We never planned to get here so quickly. We decide to go to Demon Nos.
I wonder what awaits us on these famous 17 km?

We slowly drove to the Vologda Kizhi hiding place, drove up to the Black River, looked at the water level and went into battle.

By 8 pm we were already there. And this takes into account the constant reconnaissance, stops and searches for the front number plate that I lost once again (we found it, thank God).

The prepared cars never sat at all, the standard Pajero Sport only twice.
And this is at the beginning of June. Who would have thought.

So, we are on the cape! Hooray!

We set up camp on picturesque place, climbing up a steep sandy slope, some on winches, some not;)
Bonfire, food, sunset again... Where is our beer?

In the evening of this day we managed to go see where the Chernaya River flows into Onega.
They say Rybnadzor is rampant here. People swim out to this bay, leave their boats and go on foot to see if there are any patrols.

We manage to find the first petroglyphs, take a couple of shots and sleep.
Tomorrow is an unplanned day of relaxation and contemplation of the surroundings! :)

The next morning we decide to drive straight to the lighthouse on Besovoye. A couple of boulders and we are there.
What views!

It has become much warmer, we are walking, enjoying... Ehh!

Few petroglyphs were found, but some of them caused a lot of discussion;)

We also saw a certain structure similar to a millstone, obviously not new.

Favorite colors of the north.

But on this island we discovered a solid house with a bathhouse, a hammock and a television antenna (!).
Guys, this is where you should have a dacha.

Sunset again, wow, relaxation.

The next morning, get up at 6 am and go home.
The return journey took a total of 1.5 hours.

Many thanks to everyone who participated!
To all sympathizers too!
To everyone who wants to escape the stuffy city, take a couple of days off and spend 4 fantastic days - good luck!

On this page:

Cape Besov Nose of Lake Onega is widely known in narrow circles as a place that every self-respecting jeeper should visit. Every summer, dozens of real men storm the Onega forests and swamps in one impulse. In other circles, Besov Nos is famous mainly for its Neolithic petroglyphs, which we went (or rather, sailed) to see.

The trip to Besov Nos has become the talk of the town among fans of off-road shit climbing. The very first pictures for the query “demon nose on a jeep” on Google are beautiful:

No, it's not broken, it's the suspension it has.

Well, etc. and so on. No, this is not our car =))

This fascinating pastime is best characterized by a dialogue read in some report:

- Why do you need so much gasoline?

- Yes, our motorboat overturned and everything leaked out.

- How did you turn over?

— Yes, I collided with a UAZ and overturned.

We have no more questions.

Particularly gifted people travel right along the banks of the Onega to the Murom Monastery - this is new chic. It's even more interesting:

Although we quite by chance happened to have a jeep with us that was just right for all the jeeps, it was not at all prepared for such swims. So, like the last suckers, we had to sail on that same motorboat. In principle, you can get to Besov Nos on foot; along the jeep road it’s only 15 km to the place.

How to get to Besov Nos

All roads to Besov Nos begin in the village of Karshevo, which is about 40 kilometers south of Pudozh. Half of the population of this village makes a living by transporting everyone to Besovo Nos on motorboats.

It costs on average 1000 rubles. per person.

The journey along the river is quite far, about half an hour one way.

Finally, the river flows into Onega, and we shake ourselves out of the boat.

From the mouth of the river to Cape Besov Nos itself, you still need to walk about three kilometers along sandy beaches Onegi.

On the high capes, the entire pine forest was destroyed by the 2010 hurricane. It left behind areas of literally mown forest throughout the North.

Demon Nose

Here, finally, is the Demon Nose.

It represents granite “foreheads” gently descending into Onega. It is on this granite that you need to look for petroglyphs.

The most famous of the local petroglyphs is the so-called “demon”: its legs are clearly visible in the photo below.

And the rest is difficult to see, because the weather was cloudy and unsuitable for viewing the petroglyphs.

It’s best to go to Besov Nos in sunny weather: in the light scattered by clouds, the petroglyphs are very poorly visible. And a local guide wouldn’t hurt either: some of the drawings are difficult to find without outside help.

This is what the Demon looks like if you draw its outlines with chalk.

It can be seen that the figure was carved on top of a large crack that split the granite boulder. Perhaps the ancient aborigines considered this crack to be something like an entrance to other worlds.

In general, despite the fact that Besov Nos is the largest “deposit” of petroglyphs in all of Fennoscandia (Scandinavia, Finland and Karelia), the Onega petroglyphs are very poorly studied, almost not deciphered at all, and it is not really known who and why carved all this into stone in the era Neolithic

To the right, an Orthodox cross is knocked out on top of the Bes. This is the work of the monks of the nearby Murom Monastery, who actually discovered Onega petroglyphs a couple of hundred years ago.

Well, around Bes there are many other drawings of animals, fish and strange figures.

Previously, there was a lighthouse on the cape, but now in the era of GPS, no one needs it and is abandoned.

And all around there are untouched pine forests. The places are simply magical and of course you should go here for a week or two with a tent, and not for a couple of hours.

Peri Nose

There are petroglyphs not only on Cape Besov Nos itself, but also on neighboring ones. The closest of them is Cape Peri Nos, a kilometer away. We go there along the shore.

Along the way we refresh ourselves with pasture. What I like in the north is that all the “gifts of nature” grow there at once: in the forest there are raspberries, blueberries, lingonberries, blueberries, cloudberries, and mushrooms at the same time. Cranberry, though, later.

Peri Nos is several stone promontories protruding into the lake, which also have petroglyphs.

Here the plots and style are different and nothing is clear at all. Who is this? Some birds.

There are a lot of simple icons and geometric shapes.

Our boatman gave us 3 hours to do everything, and this turned out to be not enough. We haven’t seen everything yet, but we already have to go back.

At the beginning of summer, the thought came to ride the DEMONS NOSE. After studying the primary sources and chatting on the forum, time somehow passed unnoticed. August has arrived. Having prepared everything, checked it, we started on the foggy morning of August 11, the expedition consisting of: Mitsubishi Montero Sport 3.5 “Behemoth”, crew: me, my wife Elizabeth and daughter Alexandra. SAFE car of the People's Republic of China, assembled by the hands of Gzhel potters, China. Crew: Vitaly and his wife Irina. We started towards Onega.

The sun came out and the ride became more fun.

About four hours later we stopped for breakfast.

We suddenly ran out of gas, and in this situation we were once again convinced that signs were not to be trusted.

Normal refueling after 15 km. Lukoil. So time passed unnoticed, and we drove through Vologda almost without incident. The traffic police were understanding and showed only interest. In general, you must admit, it’s nice, damn it, when you drive and everyone looks at your creation with admiration.

As I already wrote, having passed Vologda, we went to Vytegra.

Life flows, people collect something, and this means the collective farms are working. The landscapes outside the window are changing: rivers, fields, lakes, forests - in a word, beauty.

On the way to Vytegra, the Chinese had a breakdown - the rear ammo came loose. Fixed it quickly and forward.

And finally VITEGRA.

Known since 1710 as the village of Vyangi and its Vyanginskaya pier, at the confluence of the Vytegra river. Vyangi (Karelian vengi “stream, small river, channel”). The trade route from Arkhangelsk to St. Petersburg passed through the pier. In 1773 the village was transformed into the city of Vytegra along the more significant (host) Vytegra River. The etymology of the hydronym Vytegra has not been established, but the format -egra allows us to classify it as one of the ancient Finno-Ugric names characteristic of the North of the European part of Russia. Revival of economic and cultural life in the first half of the 19th century. associated with the opening (1810) of the Mariinsky Canal of the Mariinsky water system with a system of locks. The town is small, but many people were amazed sports grounds, cafes, shops and stores. Having refueled with the correct gasoline at Lukoil, we drove towards the city of PUDOZH.

It was first mentioned in 1382 as the village of Pudoga, then - Pudozhsky churchyard. County town Olonets province became on May 16, 1785 by decree of Catherine II. From the end of the 18th century. at the mouth of the river Vodla operated several glass factories, with late XIX V. - sawmills. Development of deposits of titanium-magnesium ores, granite (Kashina Gora, known since the 19th century - gray and pinkish-gray granite was used for cladding buildings and embankments of St. Petersburg, Moscow)

• In the central part of Pudozh, residential blocks of the 19th - early centuries have been preserved.
• Numerous “Onega” petroglyphs are rock carvings of the Neolithic and Bronze Ages (about 800 near the mouth of Vodla and on the capes of Lake Onega).
• Besov Nos (Ancient rock paintings, reconstructed Stone Age settlement)
• Ilyinsky Pogost (Wooden building of the late 18th century)

This is true historical reference. Our destination is the village of Karshevo.

And finally the Border.

Joyful Vitaly.

(we don’t pay attention to the numbers, this is not true)

Let's go forward.

Since we were not moving very fast: 70-80 km per hour, then, as you understand, it was getting dark: somewhere around the beginning of 8 o’clock. We reached the village quickly and were convinced that a map to Bes was not needed, since there was a direction.

Traces of the standard are visible. In short, we are moving in the direction we need.

Since Shraybikus, who is also a child, was filming against the headlights, it turned out a little dark.

and so good. We drove about 4 km.

Having reached a large and, as it seemed to us in the dark, terrible puddle, we decided to spend the night and in the morning, full of strength, quickly reach the cape.

We set up camp, quickly had a snack and went to bed. In the morning, at about 7 o'clock, the female half discovered deposits of all sorts of useful things and began to collect and absorb it all. While all this was happening, a cyclist appeared out of nowhere, like in a fairy tale, from underground. We talked, compared equipment and asked to say hello to Bes and that we would be there soon, and then we parted ways.

After the cyclist, Vitaly provided all possible assistance.

After having breakfast, what God sent, we got ready to explore the puddles.

After examining the puddle, deciding how to get there, we set off. The navigators took video and photographs.

“We’ll go straight and that’s it,” Yura said, because the bike passed, which means we’ll go there too. Vitalik thought: “However, I doubt it.”

My beloved is setting up the camera.

Having easily overcome the puddle, we moved on, I’ll say right away that there were no quick goals - for example, there were no goals to fly in 2 hours. We were walking, our girls were picking raspberries, wild strawberries and blueberries. In short, we relaxed in nature, not forgetting to move towards our intended goal.

Simply beautiful.

Each puddle was examined for snags and other troubles.

Our fighting friends.

After driving 5 km through potholes and puddles, a problem happened with a Chinese friend. Although we went through and inspected all the puddles and ambushes for foreign objects, logs, stones, etc., somewhere we missed something, and, as a result, we broke the steering rod and bent the stabilizer bar. We parked and started repairing the Chinese.

The Chinese guy looks very nice. In this situation, a rack and pinion jack, purchased on the eve of the trip, came in very handy.

Here is a slightly enlarged picture of the breakdown.

It was a good log. We removed and disassembled for 2 hours. During this time, our familiar cyclist from the Cape and two motorcyclists passed by. Just in case, if possible, they asked the locals to come by boat to quickly reach the village and try to repair it. It didn't work.

With the help of my mother, some keys and a hand winch, we removed the steering rod and, realizing that there was nowhere to wait for help, the connection was not working, we drove the Behemoth towards the village to look for where to repair the rod. At the pier in the village we accidentally met the Head of the district administration, and he recommended to us a very good master, Alexander Petrovich. Lives A.P.: village. Krasnoborsky, near the store; 3 large garages and a large private white brick house. Opposite are two 2-storey houses of 16 sq. m. telephone. +7 921 702-24-19. It's a 10-minute drive from Karshevo.

Vitaly and I were away for 3 hours (the journey there and back took 45-50 minutes), the rest of the time was for traction repairs. Petrovich’s hands are simply golden. He did everything superbly, invited me to stop by on the way back and check the condition of the car. Our girls, while they were waiting for us, set up camp, prepared dinner, just royal well done. Having returned, we collected the Chinese in an hour and rested. Photo below is where we were being repaired.

In the morning we got ready and set off - a little more carefully, since we were looking at the traction - how it would behave after the repair.

Having made sure that everything was in order with the traction, I became calmer. There are 4 serious ambushes ahead, according to bicycle and motorcycle tourists. We got to the first one.

We studied, looked, planned how to go. Let's crawl.

During the inspection, he didn’t look closely and missed the fallen tree, the result was that he rested, buried himself, and sank.

Along the left is a log that was pulled out. Vitalik slid into an old rut and got stuck; he had to swan across the entire swamp (in a bunch - 3 ropes).

Elizaveta - my wife - got tired of sitting in the car (get in, get out, go take a photo, etc.), made a staff and went ahead of the rest to measure the fairway of puddles.

And we followed her like a pioneer.

And finally, we arrived at the stream.

A very nice place, we thought.

All around are traces of the struggle for life.

We decided on how to go, but I was too lazy to straighten the logs and add new ones, for which I paid by lying on the way out. Afterwards, they corrected everything, put it in place, and Vitalik drove through calmly. All Russian, maybe, damn it.

We passed this byaka and went to the village, or rather, what was left of it.

There are 400 meters left and we are there.

The finish line has some elements of rolling, the sand is for some reason very viscous, worse than clay.

We drove, playfully, through a ditch.

That's all. This is the treasured shore. But for some reason the joy passed very quickly, the goal was achieved - everyone became sad. A very strong wind was blowing from the water, waves and all that.

Then everything was the same as everyone else’s: we drove up to the cape, looked around, selected a parking spot, set up camp, had a festive dinner, met neighbors and archaeologists. And until late at night by the fire - fortunately, we don’t need to perform feats in the morning, we’ve already proven that we can.

Traces of early civilization.

Cultural program - cinema viewing.

In the morning we all went in search of petroglyphs.

We studied everything left and right. They found everyone and everyone, one might say they satisfied their hunger for information, merged with Mother Nature. The places are simply amazing, in words like Tyutchev, I’m not smart enough to say... but there is a camera - it tells everything. A little beauty, I think, won't hurt.

and, most importantly, we get to the place for which all this was done and passed: THE DEMONSIC NOSE and, of course, the DEMONS himself.

On east coast On Lake Onega and in the lower reaches of the Vyg River (before its confluence with the White Sea) there are petroglyphs - unique monuments of monumental art of the Neolithic era (IV - II millennium BC).

Demon Nose is the central and longest of the rocky capes, as if organizing the entire surrounding space, like a tall church or bell tower in an old village, but only it is located in a horizontal plane, protruding 750 m into the lake. Naturally, the bays washing it are more extensive. At the base the cape is very narrow, less than 100m, then it widens noticeably, and somewhere in the middle part it still bends slightly in the south-west direction. It has a cap of dense forest, but at the very top and everywhere along the water's edge bedrock is exposed.
The cape serves as a reliable landmark; It is no coincidence that a lighthouse is placed at its tip. From here you have an excellent view of the neighboring capes and islands. On the contrary, behind a narrow but deep strait there is an unnamed granite island of elongated shape, also excellent place to view the coast, but from the side of the lake.

At the tip of Besov Nos, the elemental power of the lake is especially clearly felt. With terrible force, shaking the rock, waves crash here during a storm. Thunderstorms are perceived in a special way here, awakening uncertainty, fear and anxiety. But more often the cape is hospitable in its own way. If the wind is not head-on, then you can always take shelter in the bays on one side or the other and wait out the bad weather. The ancient masters, who chose it as a place for their amazing creations, could not help but pay attention to the very different state of the cape, sometimes idyllically calm, sometimes capriciously harsh.

In the central part of the lower tier, the famous “triad” is knocked out, which laid the foundation for the entire complex - three gigantic figures in relation to all other images, enjoying great fame: an otter (lizard), a demon and, finally, a catfish (burbot). Their length is respectively 2.56; 2.46 and 2.65 m. These are the largest images of the entire complex. In the center is a colorful figure of a demon, cut by a longitudinal crack into almost two proportional parts. A feeling of great surprise and vague fear is evoked by a monster with a square, contoured head, inside of which a mouth, nose and eyes are roughly outlined, one eye being shown as a round spot, and the other as a circle with a dot in the center. The demon has a thin, only slightly wider than the crack, long neck, arms spread out to the sides and bent at the elbows with five long outstretched fingers, a massive block-shaped body with a slight extension downwards, legs widely spaced and bent at the knees, disproportionately thin and short, like the arms . A small sharp-angled protrusion sticks out on the right side. The edges of the already familiar crack were deliberately chipped, perhaps even before the “birth” of the demon. From the name of the cape and the nearby village it follows that the image of the demon is based on the idea, maintained for centuries, of some kind of evil, unclean force. It is no coincidence that the left hand of the demon is covered by a Christian cross with monograms of Christ on both sides of the upper end and an oval above them. It was most likely knocked out by the monks of the Murom Monastery, which was located 25 km south along the coast, who clearly demonstrated their hostile attitude towards the “pagan” image of the demon.

Having finished examining the cape, and, as you understand, having photographed the traces of our ancestors, Vitaly and I decided to leave the spinning rod, just for fun. No sooner said than done.

Local Kuzmich, sailing past us on a boat, said that we wouldn’t catch much, since the wind was changing, and the weather and the fish would go to the distant cordon. In principle, we became convinced of this very quickly; the whole beginning was deteriorating almost before our eyes. Yes, I almost forgot, the catch of 300-400 grams of fish were not harmed and were released into their native element, that is, Onega.

It was so good, but it became a little sad. I started having anxious thoughts about way back, if anything.

And a few words about the forest along the shore of Onega. During the day, of course, everything is fine and beautiful, but as soon as twilight falls, it’s just kind of creepy, where are Spielberg and King with their horror stories in the pavilions, our taiga is the scariest at night, I think you’ll agree. Garlands of lichen, moss hanging from branches, intricately curved trunks and branches, protruding juniper bushes, and driftwood in the reflections of a fire and the light of a lantern, and under the moon with partly cloudy skies.

In the evening, a breeze began to blow from the water, the sky was increasingly covered with very ugly clouds with a hint that everyone would be washed away at night. On southwest Flashes of lightning with peals of thunder were periodically visible. Local Kuzmich did not deceive, the shaman of figs. We sat at the table, watched a movie, drank tea, and discussed tomorrow - what if it rained. And the child, meanwhile, was watching an awesome sunset, armed with a camera.

And the child also found a lighthouse, which was 16 km from us.

MORNING. At about 5 o'clock a strong thunderstorm passed, consisting of two parts, plus a gusty wind. At certain moments our tent probably had a desire to fly away with the 4 pine trees to which it was attached. According to my estimates, 2-2.5 cm of precipitation fell on us. And the shore of Onega met us like this.

Just a storm. And on top of everything, there was little rain, like 2 bags of cereal. We started getting ready at about 10 am, when we were completely convinced that this weather anomaly would last for a long time, and, most importantly, that the road was getting “better and better” every hour. We collected water for those needs: to wash the windows there and so on, it will be useful on the road, we decided.

When everyone had gathered, they put things in order on the planet, had a snack, and, with God’s help, moved towards home. The road was met with viscous mucus and a lot of puddles.

Once he swan in a swamp: he flew across the track and that’s it - on his belly. But there was another ambush that we learned about in the same swamp. It turned out that China's steering wheel was also broken from the impact, in addition to damage to the steering rod. This is what came out in the swamp: the front end worked without load, but under load it crunches and knocks out this 4x4 drive. In a word, life has become more fun.

And the rest of the way, almost all but straight sections, the hippopotamus dragged the Chinese on a rope.

When towing, there were difficulties on the bypass roads: trees and everything else were slippery and fell through. But we coped with bad weather and breakdowns, and came out worthy winners. Minus: our girls were wet and frozen, which is why there are almost no photos of the way back, thanks to them for the ones we have. They are great guys - our fighting friends. We have a blast, but they endure and smile. Here it is - the last puddle and that's it, then almost Kutuzovsky, and behind it the asphalt, in a word - civilization.

Farewell glance.

We take an inhabitant of the Karelian taiga.

Having left for the open space, for some reason the rain stopped and the sun began to peek through the clouds. Together we reached Alexander Petrovich to check the Chinese. After inspection and slight adjustment of the alignment, it was concluded that the welded rod was much steeper than the old one. Petrovich kindly invited us to spend the night and take a steam bath in the bathhouse. Many thanks to him for this. In the morning, not surprisingly, clean and rested, full of energy, one might say. Having said goodbye to Petrovich’s family, we drove home, 870 km away. . Yes, post your phone number and information about Petrovich, he suggested, saying that your guys travel often, you never know, I’ll always help. Call.

We're going home

1. Road Moscow - Vytegra - Demon's Nose 2.5 days with breakdowns and sloppiness.

2.Nature exploration of the surroundings of Besa and rest 2.5 days

3. Road Demon Nose - Karshevo village 6 hours.

4. Village road. Krasnoborsky - Moscow 16 hours, with rest, car washing, sloppiness.

CAR BREAKDOWNS.

CHINA steering linkage, stabilizer link, screw, broken wheel drive, scratches and dents as expected.

HIPPOPOTAMUS additional light, the bumper died, the rear calipers are wedge, they got a little wet, the plug on the belly came off, I gave the generator a drink and the current sobered up for 100 km. from Vytegra, torn wires and tubes on the bottom.

All cars reached Moscow under their own power. The crews are alive and well and preparing for new journeys.

PS Dear fellow club members and jeepers of other clubs, a huge request in such protected places, and in any, use corrosion protection and don’t be lazy. And pick up trash after yourself. It's just a wish.

All the best, good luck in the open spaces without roads.