Climbing in winter. Climbing Elbrus in winter. In search of the real Elbrus

Our team of two climbers descended from cold Elbrus; a report on their expedition is attached.

At about 14-15 we are sitting in the “barrel” at 3800 and trying to warm up; yesterday our familiar guides and the guys from the Ministry of Emergency Situations warned us that it would be cold. That’s right, it’s very cold, it’s hard to keep warm, it’s -20 outside. But we found red ice in the bottle and determined by the smell that it was wine! We love wine, especially dry wine. We have a gas stove, which means we will turn it into a liquid state. We drank and lay down in our sleeping bags, lit the gas stove kindly given to us by the owner of the “barrel”. We looked at our freezing boots and tried to convince ourselves that it was warmer in our room than in the kitchen. Suggestion is a powerful thing! This is how our ascent to Elbrus in winter began, or rather it began yesterday, but we climbed the mountain itself today, that is, December 18, 2012.

They rarely go to Elbrus in winter, the cold and difficulties on the slopes of the mountain associated with a large number ice, do not allow a massive attack on the mountain, as happens in the summer, when hundreds of people storm the peak.

But here we are: I am the guide and Anton. Anton’s persistence and desire to ascend fuels and inspires me. Unfortunately, only five days were allocated for the ascent, of which four days were allocated for the ascent. Of course, this is not enough for acclimatization, but we will try, what if.

Now, in order, we arrived in Terskol with a wonderful driver Arsen, checked into a hotel and began to prepare for the ascent: registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations, collecting equipment, fitting crampons - everything as usual. The next day we immediately climbed to 3800, I was worried about Anton’s condition, it was the second day and there was already a big climb.

Let's go up

On the way to our shelter

But everything was calm and measured, we went up on the ski lift, then walked from the Mir station (altitude 3500), because the upper stage of the “chair” rarely works in winter and here we are on the “barrels”. Anton is holding up well, the height doesn’t overwhelm him, he doesn’t want to take me either, the mood is cheerful, and we begin to believe more and more in the success of our ascent.

The next day we went on an acclimatization climb to the Pastukhov rocks.

Climbing for acclimatization

GPS is a good invention, everywhere you look it’s white everywhere, if the distance between us becomes more than 10 meters, we don’t see each other, but of course we are careful people, so we tied ourselves with a rope and calmly went up, trying to understand as we went where this top is...

We reached 4100, we had a rest, but we need higher, we rose to 4300, the weather does not want to become good, the wind and snow are getting stronger. Okay, let's do snow and ice classes here. In winter, the slopes of Elbrus above the Pastukhov rocks are covered with ice, walking on winter ice is more difficult than in summer, because it is very hard, the crampons do not dig into it with their teeth and you need to make an effort when driving in the crampons. In addition, it is necessary to hang the railings along the entire length of the ice, securing the rope to the ice screws, so our classes are thorough, and we spend a long time practicing working with ice equipment.

Learning to work on ice

The weather is deteriorating, after sitting for acclimatization, we began to descend down, still an interesting feeling, when in any direction, wherever your eyes look, everything is white, it seems that you are in space and the concept of direction disappears, but our GPS shows us the way to our home, and we briskly walk through the snow to the shelter. The day was fruitful, classes and acclimatization went well.

We spent the entire next day on the “barrels,” relaxing and talking with interesting people.

Peaks of Elbrus

Mountains in winter

Our ascent is scheduled for December 21, at night at 3-00, the shortest day, and also the last day of our universe (as some say), that is, the end of the world. We don't believe in the end of the world, so we're lucky and we're just preparing for the ascent.

So, at 5-00 we are on the Pastukhov rocks, there is no light at all, it’s dark all around, and the snow is gradually falling around us, there is no wind, no wind at all. This is amazing - in winter, at an altitude of 4700, there is no wind, maybe the end of the world is coming after all. We approached the ice, and we were lucky again; along the entire length there are snow islands along which we wind our way up, trying to avoid the ice. In some places you still have to go out on it, the sensation is unpleasant, you drive the cat into the ice, but it seems that you put it on the glass and it doesn’t hold. Anton is tense, even though this is his first time winter ice, but I immediately realized the danger; if the cat slipped, you would have to fall down several hundred meters, encountering icy rocks and ice ledges along the way. We safely climbed to 4850, and then it came - altitude sickness. Anton began to feel not very well; after all, going up on the fourth day of being in the mountains is difficult. We are trying to go higher, but with every step it is clear that things will soon get worse, there is not enough oxygen, and there is clearly not enough time to get used to the altitude in three days. Anton is a strong guy, and we are still struggling up to a height of 5000, we take a break, drink tea and begin to go down. The snow is still falling in large flakes, but at an angle, and the wind has begun to intensify. Having descended to our home, we immediately collect our things and go to the cable car.

In Terskol we eat delicious Balkar kebab and come to the conclusion that we were lucky in everything: the end of the world did not come, we climbed quite high on Elbrus, and we had the experience of winter climbing (and experience, as you know, cannot be bought or drunk) . I consider our decision to descend at the first signs of altitude sickness to be very reasonable and beneficial for our bodies, and besides, we always have the opportunity to return here and climb to the top.

Program Cost How to get there Information sheet

“For a moment we were speechless in front of this amazing panorama; it was not like the Alps, nor the Pyrenees, nor anything we had seen; it seemed that no one, even the most refined imagination, could imagine it. Caucasus..."
Alexandre Dumas the father

Contrary to popular belief about the difficulty and danger of climbing Elbrus, climbing highest point Europe, Russia, the Caucasus - a prestigious extreme journey - accessible to ordinary physically healthy people who do not have special mountain training. All you need is the desire, the ability to break away from the benefits of civilization for a while, to forget about it for a week. And plunge into the atmosphere of pristine nature, the cold of glaciers and snow, the morning unearthly beauty of the majestic Elbrus, go through all this despite the frost, laziness, the wild “I don’t want” of your own body, sleeping while you move your resisting legs with an effort of thought. And having gone through this, you are rewarded with an almost primitive feeling of freedom, when after the next step you discover that there is no one and nothing above you... The mountains that you looked at in the valley with your head up are somewhere there... below. And, probably, only there, at the top, do you very keenly understand that there can be no talk of any conquest (we can only talk about climbing the Mountain) of the Mountain. That's what those who have never been there say. And only then, below, you will understand that you must return there more than once...

As statistics from previous years of our work show, nine out of ten of our guests successfully climb Elbrus - the highest five-thousander in the Caucasus. Well, of course, if the weather doesn't interfere. Professional guides, high-quality equipment and an optimal acclimatization program will make this trip as safe as possible.

We offer a group tour. And if you are planning to go with your company - call, write, we will organize a tour within the time frame specified by you...

Tour cost:
RUB 33,500
The price includes: Group meeting in the city of Mineralnye Vody; Transfer Mineralnye Vody city - Terskol village and back; Transfer village Terskol - st. Azau and back; Hotel accommodation in double and triple rooms in the village of Terskol or the village of Elbrus - three days; Three breakfasts at the hotel; Accommodation in the high-mountain shelter "Gara-Bashi" ("Barrels") - 5 days; Food during your stay at the Gara-Bashi mountain shelter; Group rental special equipment to ensure safety on the route (ropes for lashings, for handrails, carabiners, ice screws); Rental of kitchen equipment (gas burners, cylinders, dishes); Accompanying the group with a mountain guide throughout the entire program (the price includes one ascent attempt); Ascent and descent on the Elbrus cable car; Snowcat rental st.Mir - st. Gara-Bashi and back for lifting cargo and equipment; Ensuring safety (registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations, GPS navigator, communication along the route, first aid kit); Certificate of climbing to the top of Elbrus for each participant; The price does not include: Travel from your place of residence to the city of Mineralnye Vody and back; 4 dinners per day of stay at a hotel in the village of Terskol. One set dinner at the hotel costs 300 rubles for a group member on Elbrus, or you can order dinner separately from the menu; Rental of personal climbing equipment (crampons, ice ax, harness, trekking poles, sleeping bag, backpack, etc.); Cook services at a mountain shelter on Mount Elbrus 2500 rubles/person. Chef services can be ordered at pre-order or cook at the shelter yourself under the guidance of a guide. Products and kitchen equipment for preparing meals are included in the tour price; Renting a snowcat on the night of the climb to lift the group from “Bochek” to the Pastukhov rocks - from 40 Euro per person. The cost of renting a snowcat depends on the number of people in the snowcat and the lift height; Accident insurance; Bathhouse, souvenirs and drinks (beer, juices, alcohol);

You can get to the city of Mineralnye Vody by plane from Moscow or St. Petersburg. An air ticket costs 10,000 - 15,000 rubles. back and forth. Flights are operated by Aeroflot, Yur Air, and S7 Airlaines. You can also get there by train. It's a day's drive from Moscow. At 15:00 we meet arrivals at the airport, at 16:30 at railway station. Tickets from Moscow should be taken for a morning flight so that you can be in Mineralnye Vody by 15:00, and return tickets from Mineralnye Vody to Moscow on evening flights.

• EVENTS.

  We invite you to climb the highest point in Europe, Mt. Elbrus(5642 m) in winter season. The Caucasus in winter resembles a fairy tale, a fluffy blanket of snow covers everything that the eye can see. We invite you to climb Elbrus with interesting program acclimatization and mountaineering training.

  Winter Elbrus is much more difficult than summer one, and if you are planning your first ascent in the mountains, it is better to wait for the summer. Our guides are able to ensure the safety of clients of any level of training, even in winter, since they work on Elbrus all year round, have undergone special training at an international guide school and have extensive sports experience.

  Our event program is longer than most. Why?

  Winter climbing of Elbrus is more difficult than summer, also based on the experience of past years, it is worth considering that after a warm summer and little snowy winter in the area of ​​the Pastukhov rocks there is usually quite a bit of snow and a lot of ice. Therefore, climbing requires more strength, better acclimatization and more time to organize reliable insurance. Our priority is your successful ascent and safety.

  One guide works with a group of up to 3 people, usually a group of 4-5 people (two guides work).

  Requirements for participants: The program for climbing Elbrus in winter is much more difficult than the climbing program in summer and is accessible to physically trained and prepared people; previous experience of hiking and climbing is desirable. Mountaineering experience is not required to participate in the program.

  On winter Elbrus from November to March the toughest weather conditions, therefore the percentage of successful ascents is 20%, which is due to unstable weather on the mountain and difficult ice conditions above the Pastukhov rocks. 80-90% of the entire group comes in. We focus on small groups, 1 guide for 2-3 people.
  In 2017, about 200 people came with us to Elbrus from different directions. We organize climbs all year round.

  Program note:
  Based on the results of the acclimatization climb to the Pastukhov rocks and training, the guide has the right to refuse the final climb to Elbrus or offer to take personal guide, if the participant is not physically ready or has problems with coordination and balance.

  VIDEO REVIEWS:

  
  
  

Day 1- Meeting in Mineralnye Vody, transfer by custom transport to the Elbrus region. Accommodation in a hotel in the village of Terskol. Meeting the instructor, initial briefing on safety precautions in the mountains. Walk around the village.

Day 2- Beginning of the acclimatization program. Today we have a radial climb into the Itkol gorge, along a long serpentine we go up to the 3100 m mark to the Terskol Observatory. Descent down. Rest.

Day 3- After breakfast, we go to the rental, take the missing equipment for climbing Elbrus. Take the cable car up to the upper station “Garabashi” and from there go to the “National” shelter. Park", 3875 m. The shelter is quite comfortable, accommodates 4 people in a room, has heating and electricity, 24 hours a day. After a short rest, walk to an altitude of 4300 m. Return to the shelter. Rest.

Day 4- Radial ascent to the Pastukhova rocks, height 4700-4800 m. Overnight at the “National” shelter. Park". Completion of acclimatization.

Day 5- Today is the day of training and preparation for the ascent. We rise to the 4300 m mark, here on one of the slopes we conduct training in mountaineering techniques, self-restraint on the glacier, and team work. Return to the shelter. Rest, preparation for the ascent.

Day 6 - Climbing Elbrus. Rise at night at 2:00, departure at 3:00-4:00. The average ascent time is 12-14 hours. Hooray! We are on the mountain, the main thing is to have excellent visibility and see all the beauties of the winter Caucasus. But we remember that strength is needed not only for the ascent, but also for the descent! In the evening we celebrate the successful ascent.

For winter ascents, for the purpose of a safe and successful outcome of the event, taking into account: short daylight hours, difficult terrain (firn and icy areas above the Pastukhov rocks) and low temperatures, we recommend that our participants use the services of a snowcat (a snow tractor that makes the climb to a height) during the ascent 4600 m, which significantly saves energy on climbing).

Day 7, 8- Reserve day in case of bad weather.

Day 9- Departure for Mineralnye Vody. Farewell to the group. Plan your departure/departure from Mineralnye Vody home on the latest flight (in case you use a spare day).

Mileage: 30 km.

Program note:
- Based on the results of the acclimatization climb to the Pastukhov Rocks and training, the guide has the right to refuse the final climb to Elbrus or offer to take an individual guide if the participant is not physically ready or has problems with coordination and balance. There are not many such cases, for example in 2018, according to the results, 10% of climbers were not physically and mentally prepared for long treks and climbing. Your safety and the safety of the guides we work with are important to us, so it is very important to prepare for the climb seriously and in advance.
- the program is not final and may be adjusted depending on the weather, the condition of the participants and other factors.
- as agreed by the group, you can start climbing from the shelter “Gara Bashi” (Barrels) 3800 m.
- if you wish, you can stay after the climb and continue your ski program. Negotiated in advance.
- we can also extend the program and include visits to other attractions: Chegem waterfalls, thermal lakes Aushiger. Discussed in advance.

VIDEO REVIEWS:





• NUMBER OF PARTICIPANTS	PRICE
  3	RUB 43,900
  2	RUB 55,000
  1	100,000 RUB

  INCLUDED:

  Accommodation on the 1st, 2nd and 8th day in a 2-3* hotel (2-3 bed occupancy);
  - breakfasts at the hotel
  - guide work 1 for 3 people;
  - guide-assistant for the period of ascent, if the group is more than 3 people;
  - a second guide for the entire period, if the group is 6 or more people;
  - meals during the active part of the program: from dinner on the 3rd day to breakfast on the 8th day;
  - ensuring security (registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations, first aid kit for the guide, GPS navigator);
  -throwing things from the top cable car to the shelter by snowcat;
  - transfer on a comfortable transfer Mineralnye Vody - Terskol - Mineralnye Vody;
  - travel according to the program;
  - a series of video lessons and seminars on how to better prepare for the climb;
  - consultations and assistance in preparation from company guides;
  - permission to climb Elbrus;
  - travel on the Azau – “Garabashi” cable car – 1 ascent and descent;
  - certificate of ascent.

  NOT INCLUDED (amount of additional expenses excluding flights and rental of personal clothing and snowcat 6,000-9,000 rubles):

  Rental of personal equipment (at Terskol rentals you can find everything except underwear;
  - travel to Mineralnye Vody from your home;
  - RENTAL OF SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: CRAMPONS, ICE AX, CARABINES, HELMET, SYSTEM;
  - accommodation in the National Park shelter – 1000 rubles. /night (up to 4 nights);
  - meals during travel and in cafes;
  - surcharge for single occupancy– 10,000 rub. for the entire program;
  - lunches and dinners in Terskol (450 rubles, lunch + dinner, if you eat in the dining room, 700-1000 rubles, if you eat in a cafe) – 2000 – 3500 rubles. for the entire program;
  - NS insurance and medical insurance (we will help you arrange it) – 2700-3000 rubles. for the entire program;
  - travel by snowcat on the day of ascent 5000 rub./person. (optional);
  - additional overnight stays at a hotel in case of early termination of the program – 1200 rubles/night;
  - additional descents and ascents on the cable car (not provided for in the program);
  - tips for the guide (optional);
  - other expenses not specified in the program.

Special conditions:
Absence of diseases incompatible with active tourism:

Basic clothing and equipment for climbing:

Living conditions:
Terskol village – hotel 2-3** (2-3 people per room), shower and toilet in the room.
Elbrus - shelters, two-level bunks, no shower, toilet outside, electricity and heating (during cold periods).

Transport:
Minibus "Gazelle" or similar, on the route Mineralnye Vody - Terskol - Mineralnye Vody.

Nutrition:
During the acclimatization period, four camp meals a day: breakfast, dinner, sandwiches with tea for lunch and pocket food (dried fruits, cookies, chocolate). During your stay in the guest house, homemade food: cereals, soups, natural potato puree, fresh vegetables, fruits, sausage, cheese, lard, chicken, sausages, candies, jams, tea, coffee. If desired, autonomous power supply is possible. For the assault we take: bars, chocolate and dried fruits. The process of preparing food is a joint effort of the participants under the guidance of guides.

Guides:
A guide and an auxiliary guide will work with you (for the period of ascent in a group of more than 3 people).

Weather:
In Terskol and Neutrino: -5 -20С, at 3800 m from -5 to -30С, at the top up to -40С

Medicine:
At the exits, the first aid kit is kept by the guide; he can contact the rescuers of the Ministry of Emergency Situations from almost anywhere. It is better to have your own set of medications for individual diseases and chronic diseases.

Safety:
This program is potentially dangerous to the health and life of any of the participants. The guides will provide you with the necessary safety, provided you comply with the Safety Rules. The guide has a walkie-talkie, GPS (satellite navigation device), mobile phone, necessary group equipment. The decision to stop climbing in conditions that threaten the safety of the participants is within the exclusive competence of the guide accompanying the group on the route and is not subject to discussion. The guide is obliged to take measures to ensure the safety of the group on all types of mountainous terrain. The guide is not responsible for the lives of climbers who violate safety rules in the mountains!

Special conditions:
– The price of the tour includes one attempt at climbing. An attempt is considered to be the departure of the group together with the guides from the shelter/BC no later than 05.00 and an ascent to an altitude of at least 5000 meters. If it turns out to be impossible for the whole group or individual participants to climb Elbrus (due to weather conditions or poor health), the attempt can be repeated the next day by paying for another night of accommodation in a high-mountain shelter and guide services. If the attempt was not used on the planned day of ascent (due to bad weather), then the next (reserve) day is used without additional payment.

– We will make every effort to ensure that the ascent to the top of Elbrus takes place, but we cannot guarantee 100% success. If the ascent was prevented by the participant’s lack of physical fitness or unfavorable weather conditions, the organization does not pay any compensation.

Important to know: Due to the increased danger of the tour, the guide’s instructions given during the ascent or in preparation for it in terms of ensuring safety are mandatory for all participants! * controversial issues can be resolved either before going to climb Elbrus through negotiations or after descending to the shelter/BC.

THE TOUR ORGANIZERS RESERVE THE RIGHT TO TERMINATE OR CURTAIN THE TOUR FOR INDIVIDUAL TOURISTS OR FOR THE WHOLE GROUP WITHOUT PAYMENT OF COMPENSATION IN THE FOLLOWING CASES:
unauthorized actions of tourists violating the rules of safety and behavior in the mountains;
non-compliance with the rules of public order and excessive consumption of alcoholic beverages;
displays of disrespect for to the local population and nature.

• 
  
  

  Liked it beautiful views on the route, work and good attitude guide
  But it was very difficult physically, so most likely from such winter hikes I will refuse in the future.
  Overall the impression is positive. Silkina O.B., January 2015

  How general review about the hike, I would like to express my deep gratitude to our instructor -

Winter ascent to Elbrus is a severe test for anyone who sets such a goal. Low temperatures, squally winds, icy slopes make the peak of Elbrus almost inaccessible in winter. And yet, people climb Elbrus in winter.
For what?
Some - in order to acclimatize before more high mountains, For example, Aconcagua, or prepare to climb Everest. Others - to see Elbrus in winter, feel the indomitable power of the elements, at the same time go skiing or snowboarding and relax your soul. To enjoy attempting a winter climb to Elbrus, you need to understand that the chances of reaching the top significantly less than in summer. This is the case when people go to the mountains not for the sake of the result, but for the sake of the process itself. We focus specifically on such people and organize a sincere, unforgettable, and most importantly - safe travel to Elbrus for the New Year!

IN New Year holidays 2019/2020 we offer a winter 9-day ascent to Elbrus from the south side -

30.12 - 07.01 (9 days) - price 59500,0* rubles, including 3 meals a day on all days of the tour. New Year- your choice: either in the Cheget clearing, or in the modern comfortable high-mountain shelter “Heart of Elbrus” for 100 places with its own cafe in the shelter building.

Attention! Thanks to the comfort, spaciousness and convenient location of the "Heart of Elbrus" shelter (located next to top station ropeway "Gara-Bashi" you can invite your friends and family with you not only to the New Year's celebration, but also to all days of the tour: while you are preparing for the ascent, they can ski(a rare pleasure to go down on freshly fallen snow before the cable car has yet lifted skiers and snowboarders from the valley), learn how to do it with our instructor, try local food tasting national cuisine (be sure to try the khychin and zau-baur) or go down on the cable car both for forest walks and to participate in one of the excursions to the sights of Kabardino-Balkaria (the hit of the season is the hot mineral baths of Geduko near the city of Baksan).

For those who arrived in Terskol/Azau/Cheget on their own, have already spent several days on the slopes of Elbrus, are “accustomed” to an altitude of 3800 meters and want to join the groups directly from the days of active acclimatization, We offer a shortened 7-day climbing program:

01.01 - 07.01 (7 days)- price 49500,0 rubles, including accommodation and meals in a mountain shelter, guide services, use of public equipment.

* - upon booking New Year's tours until June 1 - a discount of 5% of the tour cost is provided

Requirements for participants:
- excellent physical fitness and endurance,
- experience in climbing mountains at least 5000 meters high,
- having the skills to move in crampons on various ice terrain, confident use of an ice axe,
- absence of cardiovascular diseases,
- psychological readiness for low (below - 30) temperatures and discomfort.

New Year's program for climbing Elbrus from the south (9 days).

December 30. Meeting the group at Mineralnye Vody airport at 14:30. Transfer to the hotel in the Baksan Gorge.

December 31. Acclimatization hike up Mount Cheget; After lunch, those who wish can go skiing or snowboarding there on their own. Overnight at the hotel.

January 1. Ascent by cable car to Gara-Bashi station (3800 m), then walking to the Shelter of the Eleven (4100 m) or higher, weather permitting. Those who wish can take skis or a snowboard with them and, upon completion of the acclimatization program, go skiing on their own. snowy slopes. Overnight at the hotel. Today is the final day before climbing to the upper camp, and the guide will help you pick up the missing rental equipment.

January 2. Ascent with all equipment to the mountain shelter on the slope of Elbrus (3800 m). Things that you will not need during the climb can be left at the hotel. After accommodation in a mountain shelter, we will have tea and a light snack and continue acclimatization at altitudes of 4300-4500 m. Today, the guide will conduct snow and ice classes on the slope, where you will refresh your skills in walking with crampons on ice slopes and moving in bundles. Overnight at the shelter.

January 3. Acclimatization climb to the Pastukhov rocks (4700-4800 m). The slope above 4200 m may be icy, and the guide will secure ropes for belaying. Overnight in a mountain shelter.

January 4. Rest day before the climb. Today you can ride all day or relax in a cafe.

January 5th. Climbing day. If the weather permits, the group sets out on the route at 1 a.m. Participants can decide to cover part of the route to an altitude of 4200-4500 m on a snowcat, which is paid additionally; In this case, the exit time is postponed 1.5-2 hours later. Reaching the summit is before 13.00, from 14.00 all participants must move only downwards. Overnight in a mountain shelter.

January 6. Reserve day for climbing. If on the previous day the weather did not allow going out on the route, then the group makes an attempt today. In this case, the participants go down to the hotel for the night.

January 7. Transfer to the airport by 9:30 am. If you wish, you can stay at the hotel for your holiday, we will reserve places for you

The tour price includes:

Group transfer at 14:30 from Mineralnye Vody airport to the hotel on the day of arrival
- return transfer from the hotel to the airport by 9:30 am
- hotel accommodation in the Baksan Gorge (4 nights)
- accommodation in a mountain shelter (4 nights)
- 3 meals a day on all days of the tour
- transfers from the hotel to the Azau cable car station at the foot of Elbrus and back
- one guide for the entire program + assistant guides for the day of ascent at the rate of 1 guide for 2-3 participants
- safety equipment: walkie-talkie, ropes, anchors, GPS navigator
- climbing certificate

The tour price does not include:

Rent of personal equipment for climbing
- lunches and dinners during hotel stays
- tickets for cable cars
- visit fee National Park"Elbrus region"
- cost of travel on a snowcat on the day of ascent (from 5 thousand rubles, depends on the number of passengers and the height of the climb)

Notes:

* The price includes one attempt at climbing on one of two possible days (days 7 - 8). An attempt is considered to be the departure of the group together with the guides from the shelter no later than 03:00 hours and an ascent to an altitude of at least 4500 meters. If the attempt does take place and turns out to be unsuccessful for the entire group or individual participants (due to weather conditions or poor health), the attempt can be repeated on a reserve day by paying for accommodation in a high-mountain shelter and guide services. If the attempt was not used on the planned day of ascent (due to bad weather), then a reserve day is used without additional payment.

** We will make every effort to ensure that the ascent takes place, but we cannot guarantee success. If the ascent was prevented by the participant’s lack of physical fitness or unfavorable weather conditions, the organization does not pay any compensation.

*** Staying in the mountains is potentially dangerous. Therefore, all orders and instructions of the guide are mandatory for all participants in the ascent. The decision to go out on the route and to return both the entire group and individual participants is made by the guide.

Let's start with the result: you can go to Elbrus in winter. But you need to take into account the condition of the route, the weather forecast, and the condition of the participants.

I had 4 clients: Zhenya, Vladimir, Ruslan, Igor. For each of them, this was the first attempt to climb to the top. Previously, they were higher than 2-3 thousand meters. didn't rise at all. And they dealt with the mountains only insofar as they skied and snowboarded.

The group is inexperienced and new, we first met in the Elbrus region in order to get to know each other better in 8 days, acclimatize and finally try to climb Elbrus. We acclimatized in the format familiar to the guys - in the form of skiing and snowboarding at altitudes of 3000-3600 m.

Plus we climbed once to the Pastukhov rocks (4600 m). We rode for three days and got used to it.

Then we climbed straight to Shelter 11 (4130), where we spent three nights for acclimatization and waiting for the weather. We walked to the rocks and worked out on the ice.

According to the tactical plan, the ascent was supposed to take place on the night of December 31 to January 1 - I wanted to carry out an unusual New Year's Eve and at the same time be the first to reach the top this year. The forecast promised good weather for that day, but then shifted by a day.

On the 31st at 10 pm we began to celebrate the New Year, because somewhere it had already arrived :) By the way, anticipating the train of thoughts after this phrase, I will note that the ascent was very sober. The younger generation does not recognize abuses, as it turned out :) We honestly tried to climb, but there was no visibility, the wind was 50-60 km/h. The weather on New Year's Eve turned out to be completely unflying.

And the next day the very promised one came good weather. We planned to leave at 3 am, and that’s what happened. The weather is truly perfect.

We climbed to the saddle, it seemed that nothing would stop us, but... This is where a surprise emerged. It turned out that one of the participants, Volodya, had an iron leg. These are the kind of surprises that can lie in wait in a “meeting at the foot” situation :)

Volodya could not go any further; his strength ran out and his leg began to hurt. We did not have the option to continue the ascent to the rest of the participants. I am the only guide in the group, so it was decided in advance that only everyone would go together.

The rest could have climbed, but there was no question of leaving Volodya alone on the saddle in winter. We turned everything around and failed to reach the top. Of course, it’s a pity, we were close...

And in conclusion, a few more words about the excitement around climbing Elbrus. I repeat, you can go to Elbrus. And in winter it’s possible. And with beginners it’s possible. Another thing is that you need to do this without forgetting for a second about the same three factors: the condition of the route, the condition of the participants, and the weather forecast. All. And of course, no disregard for the rules. On the traverse, the guy’s ice ax flew off, I forbade him to even take a step towards it - because I remember how this slope below the trail looks without snow...