About Susaninskaya Square: Susaninskaya Square and shopping arcades. Kostroma center

Kostroma center- this is a huge Susaninskaya Square, which stretches on both sides of Sovetskaya Street. Its northeastern part is affectionately called “Frying Pan” by the people.

The development of the area is unique, exemplary of its kind, architectural ensemble late XVIII-XIX centuries. In the very center, similar to others regional centers, is located here prime meridian.

The historical part of Kostroma has a radial semi-circular layout - streets extend from Susaninskaya Square in different directions, like rays of the sun. There is a legend that Catherine II, when asked what she would like Kostroma to be like, unfolded her fan. That’s how the streets were built, according to the empress’s fan-shaped layout. To this day, if you look at Kostroma from above, it seems that there is a huge fan lying there.

Most public transport routes pass through Tekstilshchikov Avenue. There is a trolleybus in Kostroma. But the main carrier is minibuses. The route is the main sign of problems with public transport in the city.

Public transport in Kostroma - Trolleybus

Every year, magnificent flower beds are planted on Susaninskaya Square. Patterns of thousands of dahlias, petunias and cineraria appear in the city center.

And not far from the monument to Susanin, in 2014, an interesting flower garden in the shape of a boat was erected, which Kostroma children and tourists love to climb.

In addition to the monument to Susanin, in the center there is a “small architectural form” of the fire dog Bobka. This dog lived in the fire department in the 19th century and saved people's lives. Next to the monument there is a ball - a piggy bank, into which anyone can throw a coin as a donation to the City Animal Welfare Center.

To the left of the square in Bolshiye Mukhnye Ryad there is a cheese exchange where you can buy products from the manufacturer. Cheese production is one of the main brands of Kostroma. In general, there is hardly another city like this in Russia with so many well-known brands. Here is a far from complete list: “Cradle of the Romanov dynasty”, “Ivan Susanin - patriot of the Russian land”, “Kostroma - the pearl of the Golden Ring of Russia”, “Kostroma - Small Motherland of A.N. Ostrovsky", "Kostroma - the flax capital of Russia", "Kostroma - the jewelry capital of Russia", "Kostroma - the cheese capital of central Russia".

Kostroma is the cheese capital!

Below we will describe in detail the most important attractions of the central part of Kostroma.

Architecture of Kostroma

On Susaninskaya Square in Kostroma there are administrative and commercial ensembles that are among the best examples of Russian provincial classicism of the 18th-19th centuries. They were erected by St. Petersburg craftsmen in accordance with the special “imperial status” of the city, which is why Kostroma is sometimes compared to St. Petersburg.

In the panorama of Susaninskaya Square (from left to right) - Fire tower, former guardhouse, former house of Rogatkin and Botnikov, Borschov’s house and the Building Office places.

An outstanding monument of the era of classicism, the 35-meter fire tower has long been architectural symbol Kostroma and itself high point in the city center. Arriving here in 1834, Emperor Nicholas I exclaimed enthusiastically: “I don’t even have such a tower in St. Petersburg”. Until the 1990s it remained an active fire station, now transferred to the Kostroma Museum.

Former guardhouse

Next to the fire tower in Kostroma there is a building of the former garrison guardhouse. Today the building is occupied by a branch of the Kostroma State Historical, Architectural and Art Museum-Reserve. Architect P.I. Fursov is the author of these two small architectural masterpieces imperial level.

Former house of Rogatkin and Botnikov

Center of Kostroma. Left - Former house Rogatkin and Botnikov

The three-story brick building in the classicist style (pictured on the left) is the most inconspicuous of the architectural ensemble of Susaninskaya Square. But despite its nondescript nature, the building continues to play an extremely important urban planning role in the ensemble of Susanin Square. Not to mention the historical significance - it was in this house that A.N. Ostrovsky himself and the “moral genius” of Russian literature V.G. lived. Korolenko.

Borschov's House

Mansion of Borschov N.I. Metlina- this is one of the largest estates in Kostroma in the first quarter of the 19th century, which has extremely important urban planning significance in the development of the center.

It was in this house that Nikolai Nekrasov, observing scenes from city life, described the monument to Tsar Mikhail Romanov and the peasant Ivan Susanin that stood on Susaninskaya Square until 1918 in his poem “Who Lives Well in Rus'”:

It is forged from copper,
Exactly Savely
grandfather,
Man on the square
- Whose monument? —
Susanina

Office building in Kostroma

One of the main administrative and public buildings of Kostroma is located at Sovetskaya, 1. In the past - Government places, now - city administration. The structure was created according to the exemplary design of the famous Russian architect A.D. Zakharova. Similar administrative buildings can be seen in other cities of Russia, since the project is standard.

Cheese exchange in Kostroma

The Cheese Exchange is located to the left of the square, in Bolshie Flour Rows, pavilion No. 53

In the political sense, Kostroma was not called the capital for long, but to this day it has proudly carried the title of the cheese capital.

Back in late XIX century, in the village of Andreevskoye, merchant Vladimir Blandov founded the first cheese factory on Kostroma soil. In those days, cheese was a rare and expensive delicacy and it was rarely available to ordinary commoners. But after some time they began to produce it on an industrial scale throughout Russia.

Today in the Kostroma region there are about 11 large cheese production facilities that produce the famous varieties “Kostromskoy”, “Susaninsky”, “Demidov”, “Voskresensky”, “Ivan Kupala”.

If you are in Kostroma, be sure to check out the Cheese Exchange, which is located on Susaninskaya Square on the Volga side. Here you can try the whole variety of Kostroma cheeses, and buy the product you like at the manufacturer’s price.

Monument to Ivan Susanin in Kostroma

Initially, the monument to Susanin stood on Susaninskaya Square, opposite the fire tower. In the center of the composition was a bust of Mikhail Romanov, at the foot of which was the figure of the patriot Ivan Susanin. He was demolished by the Bolsheviks, who considered such a pose humiliating for a national hero.

The modern monument to Ivan Susanin greets tourists at the Trading Rows on Molochnaya Gora Street.

Our next excursion is dedicated to the streets of Kostroma. We will walk along the central boulevard, Tekstilshchikov Avenue, Simanovsky and Sovetskaya streets.

Some survey participants did not understand the meaning of the proposed removal of the last letter “o” in the name Parfenevo. The ancient fortress town on Neya Parfenyev (sometimes its name was also written Parfentyev), in the 18th century was demoted from a city to a posad (a posad is something between a city and a village). After the resolution and the settlement, Parfeniev began to be listed as a village and its name accordingly became Parfenievo. Of the cities that were previously part of the Kostroma province, the same fate befell the city of Varnavin, renamed the village of Varnavin.

At first glance, this all seems like a trifle, but if you think about it, it’s not a trifle. It is necessary to return the status of a village to the ancient settlement (or better yet, restore it as a city) and then, with good reason, restore the original masculine gender of its name - Parfenyev. Such a restoration recently took place not so far from us - on the Upper Volga, when, at the request of local residents, the ancient town of Myshkin, for a long time called the village of Myshkino, returned to its original form of name.

The vast majority of respondents to the questionnaire supported the idea of ​​​​restoring the names Holy Lake and the village of Svyatoye, only a few people expressed the opinion that this would be disrespectful towards N.A. Nekrasov. What can be said in defense of these old place names in the vicinity of Kostroma?

Firstly, these are truly holy places for any cultured person; on the scale of our region, they play approximately the same role as the Kulikovo Field for our entire Fatherland. The shores of the Holy Lake preserve the memory of two important events in our military history; battles with the Tatars in 1263 and with the Poles in 1609. Before the resolution, there were two chapels near the lake - monuments to those who fell in these battles. Only one chapel has reached us, the other was destroyed in the post-war period.

Secondly, the renaming of both the lake and the settlement on its shore at the beginning of 1923, formally due to the anniversary of N.A. Nekrasov, was actually intended to remove another “religious” name near the city itself. The name of the great Russian poet was chosen by chance; they referred to the fact that Nekrasov, indeed, repeatedly passed through Svyatoye on the way from Greshnev to Kostroma and back. But along the old Yaroslavl (“meadow” - as it was called) road, whoever passed through the Holy Place in the past: most of the Decembrists, and A.N. Ostrovsky, and N.G. Chernyshevsky, and Nicholas I, etc. So that the restoration of the names Holy Lake and the villages of Holy will not be able to humiliate Nekrasov.

Thirdly, when restoring the historical name of the lake, it should be taken into account that this lake - practically the only one of a number of ancient lakes that were located near Kostroma back in the 50s (Velikoye, Borisovo, etc.) - was not flooded by the so-called . "Kostroma Sea"

Many of those who responded to the questionnaire, having reached the names “Bukharino” and “Zinovevo”, decided that we were talking about restoring the names born in the 20s. Of course, this is not so: both Bukharino and Zinovevo are old Russian names. They were renamed, as stated above, either due to a misunderstanding, or for reinsurance. Bukharino - ancient locality in the vicinity of Parfenyev (recently, for example, local historian M.N. Solovyova donated her work “Bukharin’s similar hut 1621-1753” to the regional branch of the Cultural Foundation, in which she examines the documents of the 17th-18th centuries dedicated to Bukharin that have come down to us).

Zinovevo is an ancient village in the vicinity of Kostroma, the noble estate in Zinovevo belonged at the beginning of the 19th century to the famous Russian general P.Ya. Kornilov, who played a prominent role in the Patriotic War of 1812. The estate in Zinoviev perished after the resolution, and the nearby church and cemetery were destroyed. All that was left of the once wonderful estate was a linden park and a small stone outbuilding. In the fall of 1989, this park opened memorial sign in honor of P.Ya. Kornilov.

Of course, the names Bukharino and Zinovevo need to be returned, especially since local residents and they are still called that way: the “Voroshilov” and “Kirovo” launched from above did not take root.

The Culture Foundation's questionnaire proposes to discuss the issue of restoring a number of historical names in the city of Kostroma.

Sculptures in the central park between the Flour and Red Rows.

Let's take our old central square - this wonderful example of an ensemble of monuments architecture XVII I-XIX centuries. Appearing during the redevelopment of Kostroma at the end of the 18th century, it was originally called Ekaterinoslavskaya, and since 1842, from the moment the Susanin monument was laid on it, - Susaninskaya Square. The square bore this name for 76 years - until 1918, when it was renamed Revolution Square.

The renaming of the square occurred simultaneously with the partial destruction of the monument to Susanin. In the summer of 1918, the entire upper part of the monument was demolished - the column with the bust of Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich and the figure of Ivan Susanin kneeling at the foot of the column. The column was buried in the square, and the bronze figures of young Romanov and Susanin, according to some sources, were drowned in the Volga, according to others, they were allegedly buried somewhere, and according to others, they were melted down. The remaining part of the monument for another 14 years - until it was broken into rubble - was used to install posters and portraits of leaders.

Those objecting to the restoration of the old name say that the square rightfully bears its current name, since the main events of the revolutionary history of Kostroma are associated with it. This is, of course, true, although most of the rallies and demonstrations of 1917-1918. took place on Voskresenskaya Square (now Sovetskaya). Revolutionary events, of course, could not escape Susaninskaya Square, but the entire official life of Kostroma took place here, the entire 19th and early 20th centuries took place here. they met and saw off military units leaving for war, all kinds of ceremonies took place here, trading life was in full swing here, etc.

As mentioned above, the name “Resolution Square” has long turned into a stamp, a stencil, a common place for almost every city. In addition to Kostroma, in our region the central squares in Galich, Chukhlom, Makaryev, and Buey are also called; from the cities neighboring our region - in Vologda, Ivanovo, Kineshma, Ples. This name has not “worked” in any way for a long time, but simply serves as a certain topographical landmark. In addition, in Kostroma there is another square with a synonymous name - Oktyabrskaya.

The old name - Susaninskaya Square - is original - specifically Kostroma, such a name did not exist anywhere else. Official in origin, it is close to popular names and is almost contemporary with the emergence of the architectural ensemble of the square itself.

Renaming the square - no matter how it was presented - was an act of disrespect for the memory of Ivan Susanin, the national hero of Russia, an act of disrespect for our history. Some responses to the questionnaire say that the name “Susaninskaya Square” could be restored if the old monument to Susanin by V.I. Demut-Malinovsky were restored on it. Maybe over time this will be done, but there is still a monument to I. Susanin next to the square, so the return of the old name will be justified in this sense.

Or another old square Kostroma - Sennaya, relatively recently, in 1967, renamed Peace Square. The toponym “Sennaya Square” in the past was an obligatory part of the names of every more or less large Russian city. There was Sennaya Square in St. Petersburg (now, like ours, called Peace Square, and the issue of restoring its historical name is currently being decided), in Yaroslavl (now Truda Square), in Nizhny Novgorod (in this city Sennaya Square has been preserved under by its name, but this seems to be the only case in Russia).

The old name of Kostroma's Sennaya Square, folk in origin, was associated with the trade in hay on the square, with the hay rows that existed here, with the old bazaars; it preserves the memory of the history of this corner of Kostroma. The name is purely Russian, reminiscent of many things. And what can the name remind us of - Peace Square? Why “Mira”? Because Mira Avenue is nearby? So, over the past seven decades, it has changed its name four times: st. Pavlovskaya, st. Lunacharsky, Stalin Avenue, Mira Avenue. Or - because of the rather mediocre monument of Glory, now located on the square? What if it had been located not on Peace Square, but on Sennaya Square, would we have a worse attitude towards the memory of the dead or towards the cause of protecting peace? Of course not. As stated above, the current typically official and falsely solemn name appeared when they began to create a new social and administrative center of the city here and were ashamed of the old name - too simple-minded and apolitical. This name - Sennaya Square - of course, needs to be returned.

As soon as there is talk about restoring old names in Kostroma, the first name is always Nizhnyaya Debrya street, which has been known as the street for seven decades. Cooperations. The formal reason for such a renaming was that cooperative organizations were located on this street, but there were other institutions on it, even the revolutionary history of Kostroma is connected with it, so the choice of a new name for the street was random and formal; any other could have been taken instead .

But the name “Lower Debrya” is a unique name, going deep into the history of the city. “Debrya” is the old Russian name for a lowland overgrown with forest (Dictionary of the Russian language of the 11th-17th centuries, M., 1977, vol. 4. - P. 197). This area is indeed located in a lowland, there was once a forest here , and then - part of the Kostroma settlement. The name is also associated with literature, remember the novel Vs. N. Ivanov “On the Lower Debra” is perhaps the most “Kostroma” of all the fiction books written about our city.

Almost all participants in the questionnaire were in favor of returning this old name (only a few names mentioned in the questionnaire met with such unanimous support).

And I would also like to note that for decades the very idea of ​​the cooperative movement was distorted and vulgarized in our country, but we had a street in honor of it. So, maybe now, when cooperation, although with difficulty, is really entering the mess of life, the time has come to return the Lower Wilds?

Second oldest street Kostroma - Mshanskaya (now - Ostrovsky). The appearance of this name dates back to a period no later than the 16th century, and probably much earlier. There was a time when this street was renamed Moskovskaya (since the road to Moscow passed along it through Kostromka and along the “meadow” road towards Yaroslavl), but Kostroma residents still continued to call it Mshanskaya. In 1923, the street was renamed Trudovaya Shkola Street, and in 1948, in connection with the 125th anniversary of the birth of A. N. Ostrovsky, it was named Ostrovsky Street. Formally, they honored the memory of the great writer, but Ostrovsky is unlikely to need such veneration. Let me remind you that before the resolution, on the same street (in the building where the puppet theater is now located) there was a people’s reading room named after A. N. Ostrovsky, which was abolished immediately after the revolution. This is an example of a respectful, serious attitude towards the memory of a classic when a center of culture is given his name. And Ostrovsky Street is formal, for show. Ostrovsky never lived on Mshanskaya, there is nothing connected with his name on this street, it could just as well have been called that for any other street in our old city

The proposal to restore the historical name of the street (derived either from the fact that moss was once mined here, or from the fact that it was sold here) among the participants in the questionnaire raised many objections. Possible disrespect for the memory of the playwright is again mentioned. But I think that we should revive real respect for Ostrovsky’s memory, and not ostentatious, in the form of formal anniversaries. In the 30s, the Church of the Annunciation in Kostroma (Sverdlova St., 24), which was built and in which A.N. Ostrovsky’s grandfather, Archpriest F.I. Ostrovsky served for many years, was half destroyed (and in it he baptized his children). There is still a bakery in the disfigured church building. The house of A.N. Ostrovsky’s uncle, Archpriest P.F. Ostrovsky, one of the largest historians of Kostroma, is in an extremely difficult condition. Several years ago, there was already talk about the explosion of this house (86 Gornaya St.). We may also recall that in July 1934, the Epiphany Winter Palace was blown up in our Kremlin. cathedral, in which - in recognition of his special merits - P.F. Ostrovsky was buried. And, finally, the current history of the construction of a large chemical production plant in the immediate vicinity of Shchelykovo, 8 kilometers from the grave of A.N. Ostrovsky...

In light of these facts, it is hardly possible to say that the restoration of old Russian names could cause at least some damage to Ostrovsky’s memory.

And the third oldest street in Kostroma is Rusina. In documents that have reached us, this street is mentioned at the beginning of the 17th century; the name most likely comes from the Old Russian male name - “Rusin”. This street retained its name for several centuries (there was a period when it was renamed Kineshemskaya Street, but then returned to its original name). In 1918, on the first anniversary of the October Revolution, the street was renamed st. Sovetskaya (Sovetskaya Square was also called Sovetskaya Square). Never before has the name of this street been mentioned in any proposal to restore old names. They were afraid that official authorities would regard this as an attempt on Soviet power. But now we can calmly and publicly decide which of the two names is closer to us - the ancient, somewhat mysterious, and, moreover, the only one in Russia - Rusina, or - Sovetskaya, one of thousands Soviet streets Soviet Union...

In the responses to the questionnaire, almost no one spoke in favor of the current name of the street: half of the respondents supported the restoration of Rusinaya Street, others, without objecting in principle, believe that no one will agree to this. Some answers contain proposals to restore the name Rusina Street only within its historical boundaries - up to Oktyabrskaya Square. This is reasonable.

There are several more ancient names, the question of their return is being raised by the cultural foundation.

Voykova street. Before the resolution, it was Zhokhovsky Lane, so named after the estate of the old noble family of the Zhokhovs ( main house this estate still exists today - st. Voikova, 6). One of the ancestors of the Zhokhov family was the boyar Ivan Rodionovich, nicknamed Kvashnya, who in 1380 was the commander of a regiment on the Kulikovo field, which included detachments of Kostroma residents. Among the later Zhokhovs, A.N. Zhokhov, an Arctic explorer, is known (Zhokhov Island in the East Siberian Sea is named after him). This sacred memory of history alone should protect and justify for us the need to return the historical name. P.L. Voikov, the Soviet plenipotentiary, killed in 1927 in Warsaw by a Russian emigrant in revenge for his involvement in the execution of the royal family in Yekaterinburg in 1918, has nothing to do with Kostroma. There are enough Voykov streets in our country; they exist in almost every city. Zhokhovsky Lane was the only one in all of Russia.

Tereshkova street. Its old name is Brick Lane (also called Brick Street). At first glance, this name is akin to the names: Stroitelnaya, Silikatnaya, etc. But in reality, something ancient is reflected here, leading back to the history of Kostroma: the memory of the ancient Brick Settlement that existed here, the memory of the famous Kostroma “brick makers” in the past. Of course, V.V. Tereshkova is a highly respectable person, but the first female cosmonaut has nothing to do with Kostroma - and even more so with Kirpichny Lane.

And another old small street going down to the Church of the Resurrection on Debra. Since 1925 it has been called Osypnaya, and why exactly is difficult to even guess. The historical name of this street - Rukavishnikovsky Lane - comes either from the name of the Rukavishnikov merchants who once lived here, or from the artisans who made mittens. In any case, given the special importance of this entire historical area around the ancient Kostroma temple, Rukavishnikovsky Lane must be restored.

It is also necessary to return the old name to Museum Lane, which crosses the current Osypnaya Street. Its historical name is Voskresensky (after the Church of the Resurrection-on-Debra). In 1925 it was named Fireman, and in 1938 - Museum, apparently in connection with plans to establish a museum in the closed Church of the Resurrection. But, as you know, instead of a museum, the Church of the Resurrection was turned into a warehouse, the nearby winter Church of the Sign was half destroyed, and the bell tower was completely destroyed. Only after the war, the Church of the Resurrection on Debra was reopened and gradually recovered from the defeat, and in the coming years, the issue of restoration of the Znamenskaya Church will undoubtedly be resolved. In this regard, it would be logical to restore the old name - Voskresensky Lane.

It is also necessary to resolve the issue of restoring names in the historical part of Kostroma, perhaps not so original and distinctive, but ancient, firmly connected with the history of the city.

If we can somehow understand the logic of those who turned Nizhnyaya Debryu into Cooperation Street, then the appearance of Tchaikovsky Street in Kostroma is simply a classic example of arbitrariness. “The religious name of this street - Ilyinskaya, or Ilyinka - was removed in 1925, renaming it Boulevard. Meanwhile, the old name was firmly “tied” to the history of Kostroma. It goes back to the Church of Elijah the Prophet, which stood here, near the Kremlin, at least since the 16th century. It was said above that the liquidation of “religious” streets was almost always accompanied by the destruction of churches associated with them. They did exactly the same here: a few years after the street was renamed, the Ilyinskaya Church, an architectural monument of the 17th-19th centuries. was destroyed by two-thirds, only the refectory and the lower part of the bell tower remained (Sovetskaya St., 4; now it is planned to house a center for social services for the lonely and elderly in this building). In 1940, the 100th anniversary of the birth of P. I. Tchaikovsky was celebrated, and the street was renamed in honor of the great composer. Of course, P.I. Tchaikovsky had never been to Kostroma, there was nothing related to music on this street. They chose it, apparently, because there was an intention - to celebrate the anniversary; renaming for this reason has already become the norm. It was impossible to change any other name in the center, where political names dominated - so the choice fell on Boulevard Street. Celebrate then, and the short period of Soviet-German friendship, Beethoven's anniversary, could be called Beethoven Street. The city needs to restore the ancient Ilyinskaya Street.

Krestyanskaya street. It has existed since 1925, and before that it was Borisoglebsky Lane, according to the Church of Boris and Gleb, which stood at its end, on the corner with Muravyovka, at least since the 16th century. The stone church built on the site of a wooden one - a remarkable architectural monument of the early 19th century - was completely destroyed a few years after the lane was renamed.

The third example is Gornaya Street, which runs parallel to Krestyanskaya. This is the former Bogoslovsky Lane, along the Church of St. John the Evangelist “on Kadkina Mountain” (XVII-XIX centuries), which, fortunately, was only partially destroyed (now this building houses a planetarium). A.F. Pisemsky lived in Bogoslovsky Lane (no. 7), and the above-mentioned historian P.F. Ostrovsky (no. 86), uncle of A.N. Ostrovsky, with whom Ostrovsky himself visited more than once, also lived. This entire small street, which has preserved both its ancient layout and ancient buildings, is a real museum, so the historical name will return to it naturally and logically.

In support of our proposals, we note that several “religious” names in Kostroma have survived: Pyatnitskaya, Lavrovskaya, Ivanovskaya... And since the world did not turn upside down because of this, it will not turn over if we now restore Ilyinskaya Street along with Bogoslovsky and Borisoglebsky lanes .

Along with squares, streets and alleys, the historical names of a number of other objects must be returned.

The pond at the intersection of Shagova and Dolmatova streets is now most often colloquially referred to as “Dolmatovsky”, but this pond also has a historical name - “Kozmodemyansky”, given after the church of Kozma and Demyan that stood here since ancient times and was destroyed in the early 30s “ in Kuznetsy" (now on the site of the church there is the so-called "house of specialists"). Why not officially restore this historical name of the last surviving pond in the central part of Kostroma? Moreover, no one seems to have canceled it?!

Recently, mainly in connection with the City Day, a park called “the park opposite the city executive committee” has appeared in official papers. But this rather old Kostroma square also has its own historical name - “Botnikovsky”. It received its name after the surname of the initiator of its creation - G.N. Botnikov, who was the mayor of Kostroma and a deputy of the State Duma in pre-revolutionary times. Since the park has no other name, why not remember the previous one? Will it spoil the center of Kostroma? After all, the ancient merchant family of the Botnikovs (it has been known at least since the beginning of the 17th century) is an integral part of the history of Kostroma.

At the intersection of Sovetskaya and Tchaikovsky streets there is the Central Hotel, an architectural monument of the 18th-20th centuries. Everything seems to be logical - the hotel is indeed located in the center. But, firstly, it is not the only one in the center, and, secondly, we know that from about the middle of the 19th century until the revolution, this hotel was called “Old Court”. It is clear that at one time this was quite resonant and beautiful name was “out of place,” but what’s stopping you from restoring it now, instead of the current bureaucratic “Central”? This idea was supported by almost everyone who responded to the Culture Fund’s questionnaire.

Adjacent to the old hotel is the first Kostroma cinema, which when opened in 1913 received the name “Palais Theatre” (“palais” means palace in French). The names of Russian cinemas in the 1910-20s, as a rule, were very bright, catchy - “Are”, “Orion”, “Modern”, etc. The historical name of the cinema (Kostroma residents usually called it “Pale”) lasted until November 1939 , when it came under a campaign to eradicate names of foreign origin. Instead, the current one appeared - the Khudozhestvenny cinema. The votes of the survey participants on the issue of “Pala” were divided, but I think that the oldest existing cinema in Kostroma should return its historical name.

One cannot help but recall the “Chizhovsky” school (now the L.B. Krasin Chemical-Technological College), built at the will and with funds left by F.V. Chizhov.

(1811-1877) was a native of Kostroma, a professor at St. Petersburg University, an encyclopedic educated person, the author of many articles and books. For participation in the liberation movement of the Slavic peoples of the then Austria-Hungary, he was imprisoned Peter and Paul Fortress, and later exiled. After the death of Nicholas 1, F.V. Chizhov was released from exile and took an active part in the development of Russian industry and the construction of railways. Chizhov was one of the leaders in construction railway, which Kostroma residents still use today - Moscow-Yaroslavl. Before his death, F.V. Chizhov bequeathed his fortune to the cause of education in his native Kostroma province. With his money, at the end of the last century, five large schools for that time were opened in our province: two lower and secondary technical schools - in Kostroma, and one each in Makaryev, Kologriv and Chukhlom. All of them received the name F.V. Chizhov.

The posthumous fate of everything connected with the memory of Fyodor Vasilyevich Chizhov is characteristic in its own way. Chizhov was buried in Moscow, in the cemetery of the Danilov Monastery (near the grave of N.V. Gogol, with whom he was close in his youth). This cemetery, as is known, was liquidated after the closure of the monastery. In the Kostroma region, Chizhov’s name was removed from all educational institutions based on his funds, and in the Kostroma Chizhov School, a painting depicting F.V. Chizhov working at an anvil was destroyed, and a bust of Chizhov was broken. In 1927, the school was named after L.B. Krasin.

Nowadays the Danilov Monastery has been revived, and a small chapel has been erected on the territory of the devastated monastery cemetery in memory of all those buried there. Here, in F.V. Chizhov’s homeland, the best monument to him would be to restore the old name of the school - named after F.V. Chizhov. Some of the respondents to the questionnaire and many veterans of the school object, believing that this will belittle L.B. Krasin.

But is this true? Firstly, L.B. Krasin - a truly outstanding figure in the revolutionary movement in Russia - has nothing to do with the old Chizhov School. Naming the school after him was a matter of chance; they could have chosen Krasin’s name, or they could have chosen someone else. Secondly, the plant named after them remains in Kostroma. L.B. Krasin (former workshops of the Chizhov School). And in general, the memory of L.B. Krasin in our country, judging by the number of streets, institutions and enterprises bearing his name, is far from humiliated. But the memory of F.V. Chizhov - an outstanding figure of Russian culture of the 19th century - is desecrated, and even in his homeland. This is a fact, this must be understood.

After all, the Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow could have been renamed at one time, for example, into the gallery named after A.V. Lunacharsky, and let’s imagine that now the public would begin to propose restoring justice, and they would object that although Lunacharsky was not directly related to the gallery had, but he patronized art and was generally very good man. The situation with the Chizhov School is approximately the same.

The centenary anniversary of the opening of the school is approaching; by this time will the name of F.V. Chizhov not take its rightful place in the name of the educational institution founded by his will?

Back in the middle of the century, Kostroma was surrounded by a ring of settlements: Kirpichnaya, Gasheeva, Yamskaya, Spasskaya and Nikolskaya beyond the Volga, Ipatievskaya and Andreevskaya across the Kostroma River, Tatarskaya Sloboda across the Chernaya Rechka, etc. These settlements in the 18th-19th centuries, one after another, were included within the city limits , but the memory of them was preserved by the names of the streets: Yamskaya Street - about the Yamskaya Sloboda, Gasheeva - about Gasheeva, Kirpichny Lane - about Kirpichnaya, etc. In 1918, the remaining settlements had their ancient “religious” names discarded - the ancient Ipatievskaya was renamed Trudovaya, Andreevskaya - to Rabochaya, to Spaso-Nikolskaya, located beyond the Volga - to the settlement of Metallists.

Church of St. John the Evangelist in Ipatievskaya Sloboda

The Culture Foundation's questionnaire proposes to restore the historical name - "". This proposal was supported by all participants in the survey. Of course, the name “Trudovaya” from the ancient monastic settlement should be removed. Sloboda is included in security zone, on its territory there are “exhibits” of the museum-reserve - the wooden church of the Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin of the 16th century, a remarkable architectural monument of the 17th century has survived here - the Church of St. John the Theologian (after which the settlement had a second name - Bogoslovskaya). The entire settlement, together with the Ipatiev Monastery, forms a single ensemble, and therefore the restoration of its name - Ipatievskaya - is logical and natural.

In some oral responses to the questionnaire, the very introduction of the question of the fate of certain names (such as Revolution Square) for discussion was extremely negative. At the same time, it was said that it was inadmissible to “encroach on holy places” and “destroy everything that was.” Such opinions cannot be ignored. But what can be said about this? Firstly, discussing publicly and democratically does not mean “encroaching on sacred things.” And secondly, our state has now proclaimed and is pursuing a course in the international arena towards de-ideologization and depoliticization of interstate relations. The same policy of tolerance, humanism, and open-mindedness is necessary in matters with names. The corpus of names, of course, needs to be cleared of obviously unnecessary political names. We must realize that titles are not a roll of honor. Nobody has anything, for example, against Karl Liebknecht, an outstanding fighter against wars and militarism, but are Karl Liebknecht streets needed in each of our regional centers?

Of course, restoring historical names is quite a difficult matter. It is not easy in a purely everyday sense - after the return of their original names, people experience various inconveniences for some time, because entire generations have grown up, accustomed to the current names. But, as the experience of other cities shows, returned old names surprisingly quickly come into use. This is explained primarily by the fact that old names are usually never forgotten at all. Few of the residents of Susanin know that it used to be called Molvitin; residents of the village of Ostrovskoye also remember that it was once the village. Semenovskoye-Lapotnoye. In Kostroma they remember both Nizhnyaya Debra and Susaninskaya Square, they remember the ancient names in both Galich and Sudislavl... They also say that changing names is quite an expensive matter. But nevertheless, during the much leaner and poorer 70 years, there was money for countless renamings, and they didn’t even think about taking into account the everyday inconveniences of people, when everything around was constantly changing names.

Nowadays there is a lot of talk about national problems, about the revival national cultures. We must understand that the thoughtless discarding of many ancient Russian names is one of the forms of national humiliation of the Russian people. We will not create a truly civilized and democratic society until we clear our land of that “verbal garbage” of names that K. Paustovsky wrote about. Of course, no one is calling for renaming everything in Kostroma and the region and restoring all the names that they had before the revolution. This is not real and not correct.

But the best of what was unjustifiably lost: Molvitino, Semenovskoe-Lapotnoe, Holy Lake, Mshanskaya Rusina, Nizhnyaya Debrya, Susaninskaya and Sennaya squares, etc. - can return to us again.

Susaninskaya Square is historical center Kostroma. Its appearance was formed at the end of the 18th century, when Empress Catherine II approved a new “fan” layout of the city. The construction of the square, which has survived to this day, dates back to the 18th and 19th centuries.

Susaninskaya Square was initially called Ekaterinoslavskaya, in honor of Catherine, who made a significant contribution to the development of the city. In 1835, Nicholas I renamed it Susaninskaya in honor of Ivan Susanin.

Ivan Susanin is a national hero of the Time of Troubles, when Russia was under the rule of self-proclaimed tsars, supported Polish troops. He was born in the village of Domnino, Kostroma district, which was the ancestral fiefdom of the Romanov family (the future royal dynasty of Russia).

After his election to the kingdom, Mikhail Romanov lived for some time with his mother, nun Martha, in the village of Domnino, and it was at this time that a Polish armed detachment appeared in its vicinity, which came to Russia to kill Mikhail Romanov, so that the Polish prince Vladislav could again fight for the royal throne.

The Poles came across Ivan Susanin, who agreed to take them to the village of Domnino for a fee. He managed to send his son-in-law to Mikhail with advice to take refuge again in the Ipatiev Monastery, and he himself led them into the forest. The Poles quickly realized that they had been taken to the wrong place. They killed Susanin, but they could not kill Mikhail Romanov.

Even under the tsar, a monument to Ivan Susanin was erected here on the square, which was demolished in 1918. New monument“To Ivan Susanin. Patriot of the Russian Land" was erected in 1967. It was installed not on Susaninskaya Square, but a little lower on the descent to the Volga Embankment, among the shopping arcades.

The most recognizable building on Susaninskaya Square, and even, in a sense, the symbol of Kostroma, is the Fire Tower. It was built in 1768, that is, it actually became one of the first buildings on the square after its reconstruction.

On the square you should definitely visit the shopping arcades. They have completely preserved the appearance of the 19th century and, in fact, have become a city landmark, and not a place of trade.

Kostroma is an ancient city in Central Russia (340 km from Moscow), part of the Golden Ring route. This is a large river port on the Volga. The population as of January 1, 2017 was 277,648 people. Ready to receive tourists 25 museums, 3 theaters, 5 concert halls, 46 hotels, which can accommodate up to three thousand guests at a time. There are many options for types of recreation: active, educational, recreational and others. Kostroma attracts many people because it has preserved the architectural ensemble of the 19th century with a unique fan-shaped development of the historical part of the city. Currently, work is underway to restore monuments of historical and cultural heritage, which means options for routes along ancient city will only increase. Its history and traditions mean a lot to Kostroma, so perhaps tourists should learn more about the city’s past.

The fire tower is one of the main symbols of Kostroma

Date of foundation cities on the left bank of the Volga, near the confluence of the Kostroma and Sula rivers, considered to be 1152, and its founder - Prince Yuri Dolgoruky, although settlements of ancient Meryan tribes lived in these areas much earlier.

Monument to Prince Yuri Dolgoruky - the founder of the city

The name “Kostroma” is explained by historians in different ways. Perhaps the city is named after the Kostroma River, on the banks of which it stands. According to another version, the name may be associated with the character of peasant beliefs - Kostroma - a straw effigy that was burned with the arrival of spring. The most popular version takes us back to the times when large “bonfires” of forests were built on the banks of the Volga for winter, which were later floated down the river.

Holy Trinity Ipatiev Monastery

The first chronicle mention of the existence of Kostroma as a significant city dates back to 1213, when a big fire occurred here. In the first half of the 14th century. (1364) Kostroma is part of the Moscow Principality, since then its history has been inseparable from the development and culture of the all-Russian state.

The first decade of the 17th century brought the difficult trials of the “Time of Troubles” to the Russian people. In 1609, the Kostroma militia played a significant role in the fight against the Polish intervention, expelling the supporters of False Dmitry II from the Ipatiev Monastery who had taken refuge there. Kostroma residents were brave participants in the people's militia of Kozma Minin and Dmitry Pozharsky. In the fight against the Polish invaders, a patriotic feat was accomplished by the Kostroma peasant Ivan Susanin, who led a Polish detachment into impenetrable wilds and did not allow the enemies to find the road to Kostroma, where the future sovereign Mikhail Romanov was at that time.

Monument to the national hero - Ivan Susanin

On March 14, 1613, from the Ipatiev Monastery, Mikhail Fedorovich Romanov was called to the throne. Kostroma became the birthplace of the Romanov dynasty, which ruled Russia for more than 300 years.

Panorama of the Ipatiev Monastery

By the middle of the 17th century, Kostroma, in its own way, economic development becomes the third city of Muscovite Rus' after Moscow and Yaroslavl. Kostroma merchants traded with the East and West. At the same time, a large shopping center appeared in Kostroma - meat, flour, salt, kalash, fur trade stalls.

Red Rows (late 18th-early 19th centuries) and the Church of the Savior in Rows

Throughout the 18th century, Kostroma continued to develop as an industrial, commercial and political center of a vast region. In 1778 she became provincial town. In Kostroma in 1751, the merchant I.D. Uglechaninov built the first linen factory, and already in the 1790s there were 5 cloth factories operating in the city. Kostroma has taken first place in Russia in the production of linen fabrics. There were also 12 tanneries and 18 brick factories, 6 cloth factories, a bell foundry, a tile factory and other factories. Kostroma became a major trading port on the Volga transit route. Kostroma products went to the markets of Yaroslavl, Vologda, Nizhny Novgorod, Moscow and St. Petersburg.

The city flourished at the end of the 18th - beginning of the 19th centuries. In 1767, Empress Catherine II visited Kostroma, giving it a coat of arms depicting the Tver galley, and also participating in the adoption of a master plan for the development of the city. And at present, in the historical part of Kostroma, a unique fan-shaped development is preserved, when 8 main streets radiate from Susaninskaya Square, which Kostroma residents often call the “frying pan”.

Top view of Susaninskaya Square

The beginning of the 20th century was marked in Russia by three revolutions, the events of the First World War and civil war. They did not bypass the life of Kostroma residents either. During the revolutionary events of 1905, one of the country's first Council of Workers' Deputies was created in Kostroma. Political parties are active.

Beginning of the twentieth century. View of the left bank of the Volga with the Kostroma Kremlin (not preserved to this day)

On January 14, 1929, by resolution of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee of the USSR, the Kostroma province was abolished. It was initially part of Ivanovskaya, and then Yaroslavl regions. But this did not mean the end of the city's history. Industrialization here proceeded at the highest pace, for example, in 1932 it was opened railway bridge, which significantly simplified the transit of goods across the country.

Railway bridge over the Volga

During the Great Patriotic War Thousands of Kostroma residents defended their homeland in the ranks of the Yaroslavl Communist Division and were awarded orders and medals for valiant exploits at the front and in the rear, 29 of them were awarded the title of Hero of the Soviet Union. Since August 1944, the Kostroma region has been restored, and the city of Kostroma is its administrative center.

Memorial "Eternal Flame"

In the post-war years, new industries developed here - energy, mechanical engineering and metalworking, electronics and instrument making, and wood processing. Traditional light industry remains developed and prosperous. New museums are opening - including Museum of Wooden Architecture(currently “Kostromskaya Sloboda”).

In 1970, a car-pedestrian bridge across the Volga was opened, connecting the two banks (and currently the city is growing on both banks).

Auto-pedestrian bridge across the Volga

In 2018, Kostroma will celebrate its 866th anniversary.

City sights
The originality and uniqueness of Kostroma, which is part of the "Golden Ring of Russia", is determined by the unique preserved architectural appearance of the city, which includes numerous cultural monuments and historical attractions. The Volga River, dividing the city into two parts, gives it special beauty and attractiveness. The symbol of Kostroma and the Kostroma region, rightfully, is the Fire Tower (1826) - one of the most expressive architectural landmarks of the city. The fire tower and the nearby building of the former Guardhouse, which now houses the exhibitions of the Kostroma Museum-Reserve, have become a real decoration of the central Susaninskaya Square of the city. Unique architectural ensemble central square complements the majestic mansion - the house of General S. Borshchov (1822), the building of the Provincial Government Offices (1809), in which the city mayor's office is located, and the complex of Kostroma shopping arcades, which is one of the largest surviving shopping centers Russia at the end of the 18th century. Next to the shopping arcade buildings there is a monument to Ivan Susanin; in the center of the city you can also see a monument to the founder of ancient Kostroma - Yuri Dolgoruky. Not far from the central square is the Epiphany-Anastasia Convent (1426) with the five-domed Epiphany Cathedral (1565), within the walls of which the most revered shrine is kept - the icon of the Theodore Mother of God, for centuries considered the patroness of the city. One of the brightest attractions of Kostroma is a recognized masterpiece of architectural architecture, an outstanding monument of Russian architecture of the 17th century. - Church of the Resurrection on Debra (1652).

Church of the Resurrection of Christ on Debra (Resurrection Cathedral)

Opposite the central part of the city, across the Kostroma River, is the Ipatiev Monastery of the Holy Trinity (1330) - the oldest surviving church architectural ensemble in Kostroma. The Ipatiev Monastery is famous for the ancestral tomb of the Godunov boyars, the majestic Trinity Cathedral (1652), the chambers of the Romanov boyars and the famous Ipatiev Chronicle. Next to the Ipatiev Monastery there is the Museum of Wooden Architecture, where you can see monuments of folk wooden architecture of the 16th-early 20th centuries, which form an open-air museum.

One of the most famous and recognizable sights of Kostroma is Ostrovsky's gazebo, which offers a magnificent view of the Volga River.

Ostrovsky's gazebo

The attractiveness of the city is given by the preserved ancient merchant mansions and buildings, such as the building of the Romanov Museum (1911), the Assembly of the Nobility, and the building of the Drama Theater (1863). Among the sights of Kostroma, it should also be noted: the Nativity Church (1663), the Transfiguration Church (1685), the Church of St. John Chrysostom (1791), the Alley of Recognition, on which there are memorial brass plates to outstanding people of Russia with the names of Tsar Mikhail Romanov, Prince Yuri Dolgoruky, Tsar Boris Godunov, Ivan Susanin and others. the folklore ensemble “Venets”, whose professional level of performing skills allows us to invite soloists - laureates of international competitions - for cooperation; music, song and dance ensemble "Volga-Volga"; creative teams of the State Philharmonic Kostroma region. The city is the birthplace of the world famous State Dance Ensemble "Kostroma".

Used for entertainment events concert and exhibition center "Gubernsky", state Philharmonic Kostroma region, concert hall MBU "Vozrozhdenie". In the city 2 modern cinemas: “Five Stars” (6 halls) and “Cinema Star” (4 halls).

Since 1997, an off-road car competition has started annually on Kostroma land. "Susanin-trophy". Autotourists not only from Russia, but also from other countries take part in it.

International fireworks festival "Silver Boat", traditionally held in Kostroma in August, was twice recognized as the best pyrotechnic show in Russia.

Have investment attractiveness brands“Fairytale Kostroma - the Motherland of the Snow Maiden”, “Kostroma - the cradle of the Romanov dynasty” and “Kostroma - the Jewelry Capital of Russia”.

Address: Susaninskaya Square

Before the fire of 1773, in the place where Susaninskaya Square is now located, it carried its waters Sula River. On the left side of it stood a wooden fortress, and on the right lay the gardens of the manufacturer Volkov and the landowners' lands of the Borschovs. After the fire, they did not restore the fortress, Sulu was filled up, the earthen ramparts were leveled, and in the resulting space the central square of the city was organized - Ekaterininskaya.

I admired the beauty of this square A.N. Ostrovsky, A B.M.Kustodiev used her image in his sketches for the playwright's plays.

One of the main attractions of Susaninskaya Square is Fire tower And guardhouse building(architect P.I. Fursov). In addition to them, there are other interesting buildings on the square from a historical and architectural point of view.

Fire tower

The fire tower (1825) is a unique talisman city, for she saved it from numerous fires more than once. Fire watchtowers were erected in many cities of Russia, but they should also decorate the city! This is a real antique temple with a front portico of slender columns.

How light and delicate watchtower with viewing pergola supported by decorative brackets. The architect achieved such an artistic design and found such an organic proportionality of its parts - that the tower became the main dominant and most importantly decoration of the entire architectural complex of the square, rushing upward to 35 meters. Even Emperor Nicholas the First was worried that he did not have such a beautiful tower. Now the Fire Tower is protected by the state.

Guardhouse building

In the same vein as the fire tower and opposite it is the building of the former guardhouse (City Police House). This building with columns and windows in wide frames, the walls of which are decorated with sculptural reliefs depicting military armor, lion masks and human figures, is built Empire style in 1823-26 years on the site of an obsolete wooden guardhouse. Until the beginning of the 20th century, the building was used for its intended purpose - to hold arrested military personnel and as a duty room for military guards.

Borschov's House

Among the public buildings in the central square of the city there is a building that belonged to a private individual - this is the Borshchov House. Lieutenant General of the Patriotic War of 1812, Senator Sergei Semenovich Borshchov had such connections and such money that he was able to build himself a house in the very central part of the city. The largest estate is an architectural monument of the late era classicism 20s of the 19th century(architect N.I. Metlin).

The palace mansion faces the square with its main facade. An eight-column portico mounted on a pedestal with arched openings gives the building ceremonial significance. It's interesting that he stayed in this house in 1834 Nicholas the First, with his son Alexander II and the poet V.A. Zhukovsky, the heir’s tutor. Now this majestic building houses a court.

Office Building

House of Rogatkin and Botnikov

House of Rogatkin and Botnikov - brick three-story building, having an L-shaped composition, built at the beginning of the 19th century by the merchant I.P. Rogatkin as inn, also harmoniously blends into the architectural ensemble of Susanin Square. Here, during their stay in Kostroma, A.N. Ostrovsky and N.A. stayed. Nekrasov.

Romanov Museum

At the beginning of Pavlovskaya Street (now Mira Avenue, 5), your attention will be drawn to the building of the Romanov Museum, made in neo-Russian style at the beginning of the 20th century (architect N.I. Gorlitsyn).

This Old Russian tower with elements of 17th century architecture, it was immediately planned as a museum building. This is fully consistent with its interior design: spacious halls, a wide main staircase, a spacious lobby.

A number of sculptures and paintings were donated to the new museum from the Hermitage and the Academy of Arts, and the main content of the museum’s exhibitions was the Kostroma Museum of Antiquities, which was the first museum institution in the region. The opening of the museum took place in the presence of Nicholas II and his family in 1913.

Assembly of the Nobility

Nearby is the building of the former Assembly of the Nobility (7 Mira Avenue). At the end of the 30s of the 19th century, the Kostroma noble society bought this house from a bankrupt merchant family and rebuilt it to suit their needs.

The inside of this building is especially beautiful. Its entire southern wing occupies « White Hall» , decorated with columns of the Corinthian order in two tiers. On the other side is Small Hall, with red walls covered with silk damask. Magnificent ceiling with coffers in gilded rosettes, pilasters and columns in white artificial marble.

You can climb there along the cast-iron steps of the openwork main staircase, holding on to the railings decorated with gilded bronze.