Argentina is a land of fire. Tierra del Fuego: “Southern End of the Earth. Colonies of Magellanic and King penguins

Ferdinand Magellan was the first European to come here in 1520. Then, sailing through an unknown strait, the Portuguese sailors saw land on the left side with smoke on it.

This strait, more than 400 miles long, was charted as the Strait of Magellan and the land as the Land of Smoke. Later, King Charles 1 said that there is no smoke without fire, and ordered to call this place the Land of Fires. In 1578, the Dutchman Francis Drake, during his trip around the world reached the southernmost point of this land, which was named after the Dutch city of Hoorn, where this expedition began. This place later became known as Cape Horn.

Later it was established that this is not one land, but an entire archipelago of 30 big islands and several dozen small ones. The area of ​​the archipelago is 72,520 square kilometers. Climatic conditions on the archipelago leave much to be desired. Although the temperature in these parts in summer is plus 10-12 degrees, and in winter down to minus 5 degrees, due to strong storm winds and huge amounts of precipitation, these places are poorly suitable for life. About 300 days a year it is cloudy and rainy here.

But, nevertheless, this land long before the arrival of Europeans to these lands, despite the harsh climatic conditions, was inhabited. Several Indian tribes lived here. It is unknown where they came from here, but the English scientist Charles Darwin, who studied these regions 200 years after Magellan, discovered that they were similar to the tribes that inhabited Australia and Oceania. Moreover, the language of the Indians on Tierra del Fuego is similar to the language of the Australian natives. How they could have ended up here is a mystery of history. These were truly primitive tribes who had just learned about fire. They lived in antediluvian huts, ate fish, and dressed in skins. But they were very adapted to local conditions. Half naked, warming up by the fires, they felt great. Whereas the first Spanish colonists who landed on these shores in 1580 almost all died from the cold in the very first winter. Of the 300 people, only one survived, finding shelter with the Indians.

The Indians would have lived on Tierra del Fuego for centuries if the pale-faced ones had not come. These places attracted immigrants from Chile, Argentina, as well as from Europe. True, at first they could only engage in sheep farming. White settlers took land from the Indians for pasture and built ranches. And when gold deposits were discovered in Tierra del Fuego in the 9th century, miners flocked here en masse. They developed mines and built villages. The Indians could not figure this out, did not understand what private property was, and still hunted wherever they wanted, most often the sheep raised here. The colonists, protecting their property, declared a real hunt for them. They were shot for £1 per kill, with proof in the form of a pair of Indian ears cut off.

Of course, there were also defenders of the Indians among the whites. Thus, the Frenchman Antoine de Tounin, who fought for the rights of the Indians, united several tribes in the struggle, was even declared the local king of Arukan, Aurelie I. But his pale-faced brothers were caught three times and deported to Europe. So the struggle did not produce results. The hunting grounds of the Indians were devastated, the boats on which they fished in the sea were destroyed. Gradually, out of 6,000 Indians, only a few dozen remained alive.

Difficult conditions and the absence of laws led to the fact that slave labor began to flourish on these lands. Until 1947, there was a huge prison on this edge of the world. The prisoners felled timber, worked in the mines and did virtually all the hard work on the island. With their hands, roads were built and all settlements were erected, which later became cities. The narrow-gauge railway along which prisoners were transported to work is still preserved.

Years have passed and the Islands Tierra del Fuego gradually settled down. Now the population of Tierra del Fuego is more than 250 thousand people. The entire archipelago has been divided into two parts since 1881. The southern part of Isla Grande and the southernmost city on Earth - Ushuaia belongs to Argentina. Ushuaia has more than 60 thousand inhabitants. The majority of them are labor migrants.

Everything else is under the jurisdiction of Chile, including the southernmost settlement on the planet - Puerto Torro on the island of Navarino. In the 90s of the twentieth century, Tierra del Fuego was chosen international companies producing radio electronics. This is due to low taxes. Workers are attracted here by high wages and benefits.

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In the summer, the population of Ushuaia doubles. This is an influx of numerous tourists. The climate here is certainly not a resort one. But all cruises to Antarctica start from here, because it’s only 1000 km from here. Well, on Tierra del Fuego itself there is something to see.

Throughout the southern part of Tierra del Fuego there is a huge National Park. The vegetation here is of course frail, but there are places where entire groves of evergreen beeches and conifers grow. Among the many islands there are very beautiful and picturesque, and practically uninhabited. There are not so many animals in the entire archipelago. But the places inhabited by penguins are very interesting. Here you can meet large king penguins in natural conditions.

In some places there are blue foxes, guanacos, parrots, hummingbirds and kites - that's all the fauna. The interesting thing is that there are very few insects here, but there are no snakes or other reptiles at all.

You can see huge rookeries of seals and fur seals.

Sometimes, if you are lucky, you can see the owner of the ocean - the whale.

Now, reserves of oil, gas and other minerals have been explored on the islands of Tierra del Fuego. So the development of these gloomy and outwardly unfriendly places is just beginning. The waters near Tierra del Fuego are simply teeming with fish and other marine inhabitants. After all Indian tribes and they lived mainly because of this, because it was easy to get food here.

But even now in local cafes and restaurants you can taste any of these dishes. Here you will be served huge king crabs, weighing two kilograms and with claws one meter long, or huge oysters. And there are simply too many fish to count. Moreover, all this is amazing low prices. After all, people who reached the very End of the World should be rewarded.

When Magellan informed Charles V about the columns of smoke on big island, the king decided to give the latter the name Tierra del Fuego. It was smoke from the fires (the Indians called themselves “selk-nam” - people), who have lived here for more than 10 thousand years hunting guanacos. Soon after the first expedition (1879) to Tierra del Fuego, the state gave the local lands for sheep farming, thereby displacing the Indians. True, they quickly changed lines, because it is easier to catch a sheep than a fast guanaco. Later, gold was discovered in the center of the island, and the living space of the Indians was further reduced. So they gradually disappeared from the face of the earth.

Indians of Tierra del Fuego

“The sight of the Fuegians sitting on a wild, abandoned shore made an indelible impression on me. An image appeared before my eyes - this is how our ancestors once sat long ago. These people were completely naked, their bodies were painted, their tangled hair hung below their shoulders, their mouths were open in amazement, and a threat lurked in their eyes... I could have come from that brave monkey... or that old baboon... or from a savage , who takes pleasure in torturing his enemies and sacrifices the blood of animals. He kills babies without the slightest remorse, treats women as if they were slaves, he does not know what the rules of decency are and is completely dependent on absurd superstitions,” this is how Charles Darwin described the natives of Tierra del Fuego, who reached these places in 1832. ship "Beagle". The scientist was amazed by the primitive way of life of the savages and at first saw little humanity in them.

At the same time, the English explorer William Parker Snow, who visited Tierra del Fuego in 1855, described the local aborigines quite differently: “...many Fuegians living on eastern islands, have a pleasant and even attractive appearance. I understand that this goes against what Mr. Darwin described in his writings, but I am only talking about what I saw myself...” The scientist in his writings indicated that the Indians are familiar with the institution of family: “I witnessed manifestations of deep love and tenderness towards their children and towards each other.”

The way of life of the Indian tribes that once inhabited the territory of Tierra del Fuego, of course, could seem primitive and barbaric to any European of that time, nevertheless, they had their own culture, language and religion, which, unfortunately, remained poorly understood, because soon after the discovery of the archipelago, all its indigenous inhabitants died. Tough and hardy in relation to the harsh climate of their homeland, they found themselves helpless in the face of the diseases that the Europeans brought with them: measles and smallpox claimed the lives of thousands of natives. And what the disease did not do, the cruel treatment of the “new owners” of the earth completed. At the moment, there is not a single pure-blooded indigenous inhabitant of Tierra del Fuego: the last Indian of the She tribe died in 1974, and the last Yagan in 1999.

The Indians of Tierra del Fuego received the scientific name Fuegina. They are divided into several tribes: among which were the Canoe Indians (indigenas canoeros)-Yagans (Yamans) and alakaluf (kaveskar), who earned their living exclusively by fishing and gathering, Indians on foot (indios a pie)- she is Indians (selk-nam), hunted.

Tierra del Fuego is a land of extremes. Wild and bleak lands stretch south to the point where two mighty oceans fight. In winter, fierce storms, driven by the freezing, snowy winds of the Antarctic seas, plague the bleak shores off the southern tip of South America. In the cold season, due to its altitude above sea level (more than 1030 meters), constant rains irrigate it South coast, and the sun shines only a few hours a day. In summer the air on the coast is warm and mild, but sudden squalls bring a menacing reminder that Tierra del Fuego is located very close to the wild shores of Antarctica.

These climatic characteristics require special tenacity, perseverance and endurance from local residents - descendants of the English evangelists who landed on this shore in the nineteenth century, and exiled prisoners of the early twentieth century, as well as adventurers and adventurers of all stripes who simply settled here by chance.

The total area of ​​the archipelago is 72,520 square meters. km, of which 70% belongs to Chile and the rest to Argentina. Tierra del Fuego forms part of the hook at the end of the South American continent, a strip of land that stretches to the vast icy deserts of Antarctica, less than 1,000 km away.
Tierra del Fuego and Antarctic Peninsula once formed a single landmass, but the continents began to diverge 25 million years ago. The proximity of structures and types of rocks allows us to determine the places of their previous connection. Fossil evidence also suggests that many of the animals and plants that existed in South America, lived in Antarctica.

The archipelago that makes up Tierra del Fuego was discovered in 1520 by the Portuguese navigator Ferdinand Magellan, who gave it this name because of the fires lit by Indians along the shore as he sailed through the Strait now known as the Strait of Magellan. In 1578, Sir Francis Drake discovered a small group of islands, later named Cape Horn by Dutch explorers.

A detailed exploration of Tierra del Fuego was undertaken only in the 19th century, when the British Admiralty sent two expeditions there. The second of these voyages was undertaken by Captain Robert FitzRoy on the Beagle. Fitzroy wanted to take a naturalist with him to describe these little-explored lands and chose 22-year-old Charles Darwin. On December 27, 1831, Beagle set sail at Plymouth, setting off on a voyage that was to last almost five years. They reached Tierra del Fuego in December 1832; Having set foot on earth, Darwin remarked about mountains and glaciers: “One can hardly imagine anything more beautiful.” Fitzroy named the snow-dusted mountains that line the Beagle Channel after Darwin. While the tiny ship was struggling through the strait, Darwin was searching for local Indians. There were thought to be about 3,000 Yamana Indians living here in the 1830s, but the destruction of hunting grounds and other changes imposed by European settlers virtually wiped out their population. Darwin noted the harsh lifestyle of the people, surviving on meager plant food and going out into the stormy sea in fragile canoes.

The prospect of starvation always loomed before the Yamana Indians. But the Indians were not the only ones who suffered from local climate and scarce food supplies. In 1580, a group of Spanish settlers of approximately 300 people founded a colony 64 km from Punta Arenas; all but one died of starvation. The rugged Martial Mountains outside Ushuaia in the Argentine part of Tierra del Fuego form part of a picturesque national park.

Tierra del Fuego National Park is the main attraction of Ushuaia. A scenic narrow-gauge railway will take you to the park. There are many corners of virgin nature here, and you can’t help but feel like you’re at the edge of the world. A wonderful walk along the coast to lakes and glaciers. On the rocky beach there is a site for a tourist camp, where you can taste local sweet berries for breakfast.

The Cuyo region includes the Andean provinces of Mendoza, San Juan and San Luis. The mestizo people live here, whose culture reflects the influence of neighboring Chile. Cuyo, located at the foot of the Andes, is an important agricultural region, famous for its vineyards and winemaking. Travelers come there because of the opportunity to choose a sport and active rest, such as mountaineering and hiking. Wineries and hidden mountain villages, as well as the areas of Mendoza and San Juan, are among the attractions.

The capital is the city of Ushuaia - the closest to south pole the city of our planet, well known as the End of the World, is located in a picturesque area between the Andes mountain range and the Beagle Canal. It got its name from the local Indians, for whom it was simply “a gulf that seeps to the west.” It's quite large for these parts tourist centre, with an airport, a chain of hotels, sports centers and good gastronomy. Over the past thirty years, the city has almost doubled its population, resulting in a serious housing problem. But, basically, there is everything necessary for the self-sufficiency of residents isolated from big world so much so that ships enter this harbor no more than once a month.

If you find yourself in these parts, be sure to visit the city’s main museum and the National Park. This is the only park in Argentina with sea ​​coast located just 12 km west of Ushuaia. You will see the panoramic landscapes of El R?o Lapataia with the picturesque lagoons La Laguna Verde and La Laguna Negra; it is also recommended to take the De Los Castores trail.

Don't forget to take a ride along the El Canal Beagle. This excursion starts from Muelle Turistico: you board modern catamarans and, enjoying the extraordinary nature of this place, reach the historical lighthouse of Faro Les Eclaireurs.

Those who want to go even to the ends of the world are unlikely to realize that they mean Tierra del Fuego. The archipelago is located in the very south of South America and has about 40 thousand islands of different sizes and shapes. This strange name the territory was given to the navigator. When in 1520 he sailed to the islands, he saw numerous Indian fires, which he mistook for volcanic vents.

Today, Tierra del Fuego is divided between two countries: Argentina and Chile. The first one got South part, and the second the rest of the territory. The northern part of the archipelago is in many ways similar to Patagonia, and further south the nature becomes poorer, mountain landscapes covered with glaciers appear. The climate here is quite cool throughout the year, so it is very difficult to call this archipelago a resort. Tierra del Fuego, despite this, every year attracts more and more people who want to be alone with nature, away from civilization.

No one will be bored here, because you can go fishing, go for a walk or go on a cruise. The guides have developed numerous routes along which you can go to the mountains to admire the surrounding landscapes. It is suggested to walk or ride horses or motorcycles. There are also ski slopes here, so fans of this sport will certainly enjoy Tierra del Fuego.

You can get acquainted with local architecture, historical and cultural monuments, admire the flora and fauna of these places. When planning to go on vacation, many tourists confuse the Earth’s belt of fire with the southernmost archipelago due to similar names. The edge of the world differs in many ways from other places on the planet, so it’s really worth visiting here at least once.

You should definitely visit the regional museum Fin del Mundo and the museum located in the city prison, both are located in the very southern city planets - Ushuaia. It is also recommended to take a boat trip along the Beagle Channel, named after Charles Darwin's ship. Tierra del Fuego gave the scientist the opportunity to conduct important research that became the basis of evolutionary theory. You should definitely go on a cruise to the islands inhabited by Arctic birds, Magellanic penguins. You can get a lot of impressions from a walk through the National Park, which has no analogues in the whole world.

Having visited the archipelago, it is worth going around Cape Horn, in the coastal waters of which the whole rests. This should be done from November to March, then the weather is not too stormy. It will be interesting to repeat the route of Charles Darwin; for this you need to hire a guide with a boat, having previously insured them and yourself at the same time. In restaurants you need to try the centolya dish, you won’t find anything like it anywhere else.

To confidently tell everyone that you have been to the very edge of the world, you need to go to Puerto Toro, a fishing village where about 50 old-timers live. Tierra del Fuego hides a lot of interesting things. To lift the veil of secrets, you just need to come here and get to know the local

“If you go to Chile and Argentina,” I thought, “then it’s worth seeing these countries in all their diversity.” This is how a glacier, a road through the Chilean Andes, and, of course, Tierra del Fuego appeared on my route.

I came to the edge of the earth, rugged by fjords, to repeat the path of sailors through the labyrinth of straits, where ships had been lost for centuries. At the tip of the continent, separated only a thousand kilometers from Antarctica, lies Tierra del Fuego - Tierra del Fuego. My journey from the Chilean port of Punta Arenas to the southernmost city of the land, Ushuaia, past blue tongues of ice sliding down the slopes into cold waters, past fur seals basking in the sun, dancing whales and important penguins, was that amazing adventure that will be remembered for a lifetime.

Landing on the dangerous and alluring Cape Horn and finding a note from Fyodor Konyukhov there, making your way through the forest and rocks to a waterfall hidden from prying eyes, cutting through the waves, competing in speed with dolphins - it’s like I’m in a National Geographic movie!

And most importantly, getting to Tierra del Fuego and experiencing it all yourself is not so difficult!

How to get there

To get from Russia to the archipelago of islands and peninsulas called Tierra del Fuego, you first need to find yourself in Chile or Argentina. And how to do this more conveniently, you can read. And then in front of you will lie vast expanses of thousands of kilometers, which can be overcome in any convenient way.

By plane

Throughout Argentina

So, you have arrived in a colorful and pulsating place.

There are two airlines flying from Jorge Newbery Airport (Aeroparque Internacional Jorge Newbery, code AEP) and Minister Pistarini Airport (Ezeiza, code EZE) to Ushuaia (Ushuaia Estacion Aeronaval Airport, code SAWO):

• LAN makes one or two direct flights daily (depending on the season), a round-trip ticket will cost from 550 USD;
• Aerolineas Argentinas offers the most options: from different airports Buenos Aires has 5–7 flights per day, of which 2–4 are direct, the ticket price is similar and starts from 550 USD.

How to get from Pistarini Airport to Ushuaia

Ushuaia airport is located 5 kilometers from the city on a small peninsula (which makes takeoff and landing very picturesque). A taxi (from 20 USD) or a minibus (10 USD per person) will take you to the city. Both can be ordered from specialized counters near the exit from the airport building.

Throughout Chile

If you are planning to start your trip from the Commodore Arturo Merino Benitez Airport (Aerodrome A. M. Benitez International, code SCL), then the gateway to Tierra del Fuego will be Punta Arenas with its Airport named after President Carlos Ibanez del Campo (Pres Carlos Ibanez del Campo International, code PUQ ).

They fly this route:

• LAN every day it sends 5–7 planes (of which 4–5 are direct), flight costs start from 190 USD;
• Sky Airline makes only 2-3 flights a day, of which 1 or 2 are direct, but the ticket price is lower and starts from 175 USD.

How to get from Arturo Merino Benitez Airport to Punta Arenas

From Punta Arenas Airport you can get to the city by taxi (from 15 USD) or by shuttle (3 USD per person). The latter stop near the exit of the building is difficult to miss. An excellent landmark is a line of people with backpacks :).

You can see how much a flight from Buenos Aires or for your planned dates will cost.

By bus

If time permits, I highly recommend going to conquer Tierra del Fuego by bus or car. Not seeing the splendor of the pampas stretching beyond the horizon with a strip of snowy mountains in the west, lonely farms and cozy villages, missing breathtaking lakes and glaciers, mountain peaks and vineyards - this is simply a crime!

Bus services in Latin America are excellent, transport is in good condition, and the roads are also excellent (mostly straight as an arrow). There are several features that you quickly get used to:

• drivers like to press the accelerator pedal to the floor, but they know their job and drive well;
• In the northern provinces, the air conditioning is very strong, so you need to carefully insulate.

To get to Tierra del Fuego, you need to cover more than 3 thousand kilometers and make one or more stops.

Throughout Argentina

From Buenos Aires (Retiro terminal) you can get to Ushuaia with a transfer in Rio Gallegos, a town in Patagonia on the Atlantic coast. A trip costing from 250 USD will take 49 hours.

The price depends on the class:

• a bus with seats reclining 45 degrees (semi cama), air conditioning and several TVs in the cabin will cost about 250 USD;
• first class with a 60-degree reclining backrest and softer seats (salon cama) are slightly more expensive, from 300 USD;
• the luxury version with a toilet, a fully reclining seat (cama), a blanket and dinner can be compared in cost to a plane ticket: at least 500 USD (but believe me, it’s worth a lot to ride on such a bus in the first row of the second floor!).

You can book a ticket in advance on the special website plataforma10.com (don’t be surprised if the site first displays a loading error - it will work in a couple of seconds) or buy it on the spot at the bus station (you will need a passport).

Throughout Chile

It is impossible to get from Santiago to Punta Arenas only through the territory of Chile, since south of the town of Villa O'Higgins the road ends, surrendering to the rugged coastline and glaciers. You need to cross the border with Argentina and return back to Chile, just at Torres del Paine. That's why bus route will be quite complicated:

By car

Traveling by car is one of the the best ways get to know Latin America! I drove 3.5 thousand kilometers from Santiago to Punta Arenas along the roads and Argentina, I got into a heap funny stories and filled the camera memory to capacity with thousands of pictures!

The conditions under which you will be given a car in Argentina and Chile are the same:

• you need to present a driver's license (Russian and international), as well as a card with a sufficient amount in the account to block the deposit;
• I recommend making a choice from all-terrain tall cars: firstly, there are long sections of gravel on the roads and low ground clearance will be your curse, and secondly, the winds of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego are strong and dangerous for light cars (the rental office will most likely not even will agree to give you a small car);
• if you are going to cross the border, be sure to order a permit for the car in advance (it costs about 200 USD and takes several days to complete), make sure that they have started preparing the permit for you, we burned several hundred nerve cells on this.

Rental prices in Santiago or Buenos Aires start from 60 USD per day, and the further south you go, the more expensive it is. In Patagonia, you will be given a car for 100–150 USD per day. All offers available on this moment, you can look at well-known aggregator sites or, for example, .

Toll roads no, because the road you are driving on is most often the only road. Main highways: Ruta 5 in and Ruta 40 in Argentina.

Gas stations are quite common, including in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. Gasoline is quite expensive both in and in Argentina: a liter costs from 1.1 USD in central parts countries, the price reaches 1.5 USD in the south.

By ferry

You can get to Tierra del Fuego cruise ship from Buenos Aires or Santiago. This cruise takes from 12 to 18 nights and includes stops in Ushuaia, Punta Arenas, landing at Cape Horn and others interesting places.

Prices start from 750 USD for a cabin without a view to 3,000 USD for a comfortable cabin with an ocean view. Meals are not included in this price. Cruises operate from November to March by several companies:

Clue:

Tierra del Fuego - the time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow 7

Kazan 7

Samara 8

Ekaterinburg 9

Novosibirsk 11

Vladivostok 14

When is the season? When is the best time to go

Tierra del Fuego is a harsh region. In the past, when the Panama Canal was not dug and cargo was delivered by skirting South America through the labyrinthine channels of the Strait of Magellan, many ships perished in these places. Treacherous weather, fogs, currents and winds created serious obstacles for ships.

Tourist season begins in November and ends in March, and peaks in January. At this time, the weather becomes more favorable, the sun comes out more often and the air warms up to +5, +7 °C. I was amazed to see local residents in T-shirts and T-shirts, while I myself was wrapped in a warm jacket and sweatshirt.

At this time there are quite a lot of tourists and everything needs to be booked in advance: accommodation, excursions, transport. We did not book a room in Ushuaia on the 10th of January and had to spend the night at the airport (fortunately, they have soft carpet on the floor and not cold tiles).

In autumn and spring, the weather becomes more unpredictable: it can rain or a hurricane can blow. At such moments, there can be no talk of any landings on the islands. The pleasure of walking in nature decreases sharply. But there are a lot of vacancies and prices are falling.

In the summer, the most desperate ones go to Tierra del Fuego to fight the forces of nature and win. Fans of surviaval trips will be delighted!

Conditional areas. Descriptions and features

What are the prices for holidays?

When going to Tierra del Fuego, be prepared for the fact that prices for food, gasoline, housing and entertainment here are 1.5–2 times higher than in Buenos Aires and Santiago.

For example, in the north of Argentina or Double Room V good hostel can be rented for 20 USD; lunch for two will cost about the same. In Tierra del Fuego it will be difficult to find accommodation cheaper than 40 USD per night; lunch will cost at least 30 USD. A liter of gasoline in the center of the country costs about 2 USD, and in the far south - 3 USD. Bread prices are 0.8 USD versus 1.6 USD.

Good way save:

• stay in places where there is a kitchen and cook for yourself,
• give up the car in favor of buses (by the way, comfortable and frequent).

Main attractions. What to see

Travelers go to Tierra del Fuego to conquer the mountains and straits of the End of the World or the End of the World (Fin del Mundo), as it is called local residents. To see penguins at arm's length and wander along the glacier.

No matter how little time you have in the cities of Tierra del Fuego, set aside at least an hour for a promenade along the embankment. In Punta Arenas, this is a modern urban space with a skatepark, playgrounds and a cool fountain.

The Ushuaia waterfront is more old-fashioned and closer to nature: with green spaces, restaurants, picturesque bay And majestic mountains Outside the city.

Parallel to the promenade in Ushuaia, Hernando de Magallanes Street is the second main thoroughfare in the city, full of shops, restaurants and pubs.

If you only have 1 day in Tierra del Fuego (how criminally short!), go to Ushuaia, and from there:

1. At 8:00 take off to Penguin Island on a small boat along the Beagle Channel, where these funny birds strut along at arm's length from you.
2. Dine on the freshest seafood on the city's waterfront overlooking the bay.
3. In the afternoon, board a train that will take you through the magnificent national park Tierra del Fuego (Terra del Fuego).

Top 5

Here is the very thing that cannot be missed in Tierra del Fuego.

Cape Horn

Almost legendary place. The small Horn Island in the Drake Passage, which separates South America from Antarctica, is a key point in any voyage around the continent. Treacherous currents and strong winds have killed many sailors here, and today it is not always possible to land on the island. Therefore, each lucky winner is given a certificate confirming his luck.

On an island covered with coarse grass, blown by a constant westerly wind, stands a lonely lighthouse, where an officer and his family live and work. And on the cliff of the cape there is a strange sculpture through which travelers look thoughtfully to the south, trying to see the snowy plains of Antarctica beyond the horizon. You can get to Cape Horn as part of an expedition on a cruise ship.

You can read about long cruises in the “How to get there” section above. Short voyages around Tierra del Fuego are offered by Cruceros Australis; their comfortable ships sail from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia and back, making landings at glaciers, seal colonies and Cape Horn. You can choose different options: from a one-way trip (I sailed from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia for 4 days) to a round-trip for a week. The cost of a place in a cabin starts from 1,200 USD (including meals) for 4 days and 3 nights.

Colonies of Magellanic and King penguins

This is what attracts thousands of tourists every year. Seeing funny birds very close, waddling importantly on land and gliding under water like a torpedo is worth getting wet and freezing. There are many excursions to see penguins. travel agencies Ushuaia and Punta Arenas. They are usually carried out twice a day: in the morning (for half a day and the whole day) and in the afternoon (for 4–5 hours).

Can choose cruise(two hours by ship each way) or a mixed option: bus and boat. The cost of such tours starts from 120 USD per person. Carefully study the conditions of the excursions, since not all of them include landing on the shore to see the penguins (then you will observe the birds from the deck of a moored ship).

Nature of Tierra del Fuego

Yes, it can be considered an attraction in itself. You can touch the amazing nature of these places in hiking, cycling and safari tours on jeeps, canoeing. Travel companies They also organize combined routes of varying complexity and duration (however, none of them include spending the night outdoors in tents due to unpredictable weather conditions).

You will be invited to go to amazingly colored lakes, overcome off-road terrain, climb centuries-old glaciers and even ride a dog sled under the starry sky. The average price for such active excursions fluctuates around 180 USD per person.

Railway

In Latin America, rail transport is very poorly developed. Therefore, it is especially unexpected to find an elegant, bright train at the end of the earth, passing through the breathtaking landscapes of Tierra del Fuego.

Travel around national reserves from the station in Ushuaia past lakes, waterfalls, mountain peaks and islands lasts 3–5 hours and costs from 50 USD. Bring a thermos and sandwiches to keep warm.

Excursion to Antarctica

And Punta Arenas is the gateway to Antarctica. Tourist ships depart from here, carrying brave and seasoned travelers to conquer the icy expanses.

Expeditions of 10–20 days take place from November to March. The ship will pass through the Drake Passage on adventures that they tell their grandchildren about. The pleasure is not cheap: a place in a cabin will cost 5,000–15,000 USD, depending on the route and season.

Churches and temples. Which ones are worth visiting?

Cathedral of the Sacred Heart (Catedral Sagrado Corazon)

Erected in Plaza Munoz Gomero in Punta Arenas in late XIX century, this cathedral is an example of classical architecture.

The austere façade and interior, as if transported to the End of the World from the Hermitage, are worth a look inside.

Church of Mercy (Iglesia de la Merced)

This church in Ushuaia is even more unusual. It was built at the same time as its older brother in Punta Arenas, but in a completely different style.

Small, cozy, with sloping arches and warm yellow walls, the Church of Mercy is full of parishioners on Sundays.

The church is located in the very center, near the port, at av. San Martin, 936.

Museums. Which ones are worth visiting?

To entertain tourists, there are several museums in Punta Arenas and Ushuaia. Some of them are open more for quantity, but some are really interesting.

In Ushuaia:

In Punta Arenas:

Parks

The terrain of Tierra del Fuego, rugged by icy waters, is full of amazing corners and breathtaking views. The harsh beauty of this region cannot leave you indifferent! It is not surprising that several beautiful national parks are located here: Magellanes, Laguna Parillar, Karukinka and others.

But the most famous are perhaps these three:

Food. What to try

The main culinary treasure of Tierra del Fuego is king crab and other seafood. A huge crab, the size of a large plate, is boiled in boiling water and served. Shrimp are cooked with maize (corn), fish and shellfish are marinated in lemon juice or salted. In any restaurant in Ushuaia or Punta Arenas you will find the freshest ingredients and delicious dishes.

A gourmet in Tierra del Fuego will find not only fish and seafood. From the middle of the 19th century, immigrants from Europe, mainly Germany and Scandinavia, began to settle in these places. They brought with them sheep and the secret of brewing.

To this day, the Cervecería Austral brewery, opened more than 120 years ago, operates in Punta Arenas, producing rich, delicious ales of various varieties. You can go on a tour to the brewery and see the copper boilers and apparatus that the founder brought from Germany, and, of course, taste the local beer. Today it is known throughout South America and is sold in supermarkets.

Sheep, which outnumber people here, graze freely in the foothills of the Andes - fierce winds and coarse grass do not bother them. Free spaces make local lamb juicy and tender. Be sure to try cordero en la cruz - lamb roasted over an open fire on a cross. This festive dish is prepared on special occasions. I have never liked lamb, but here I fully appreciated this dish!

If you plan to eat on your own and not in restaurants, then in Ushuaia and Punta Arenas there are supermarkets with a large selection of products (prices are much higher than in the central regions and Argentina). In others populated areas you will only come across small shops with a modest assortment: mainly groceries and canned goods.

The truism “eat where the locals do it” is fully true in Tierra del Fuego. Ignore the interior and the "relaxed" service and you will taste the most delicious and freshest food. But finding such places takes time and skill, because once independent tourists they give out logins and passwords online, local cafes are flooded with tourists, and the establishment is deteriorating. Another good option is to find a place on the embankment. Go to any one you like.

If you don’t have the time or desire to experiment, then here are a couple of tips for very high-quality and pleasant places.

In Punta Arenas:

• La Luna(O"Higgins, 1017). They serve fresh seafood, wonderful lamb and an excellent traditional pisco sour cocktail. Main courses cost from 5 USD. The place is very popular.
• Dino's pizza(av. Bories, 557). The place is simpler, cheaper (large pizza for two from 4 USD) and sometimes you even meet locals.

In Ushuaia:

• Gustino(av. Maipú, 505). An upscale establishment with amazing cuisine (especially seafood), a good wine list and excellent service. The average cost of a hot dish is 10 USD.
• El Turko(av. San Martin, 1440). No pathos, but a huge and incredibly tasty salmon steak - 4 USD!

Safety. What to watch out for

The dangers that await a traveler in Tierra del Fuego are mainly related to nature: you can fall from a boat into the water, twist your ankle while climbing slopes and glaciers, freeze and catch a cold. Therefore, you should pay close attention to your equipment: be sure to take waterproof and windproof clothes, comfortable shoes for walking (ideally with ankle support, but I got by just fine with regular sneakers). And don't skimp on insurance. It's always better to plan everything in advance!

The risk of being robbed, deceived, or otherwise harmed by people is practically zero. When there are such harsh conditions around, people become kind and sensitive towards each other, ready to help and help out.

Still, the main danger is to fall irrevocably and completely in love with this region and spend all your money on trips to Tierra del Fuego.

Things to do

People go to Tierra del Fuego primarily to enjoy the untouched beauty wildlife, detached from the bustle of the world. But civilization has reached the southern edge Latin America, so those who wish can enjoy its benefits - for example, shopping.

Despite the fact that it is a duty-free zone, prices for goods are high. The shops sell mainly souvenirs, as well as clothing and accessories for outdoor activities.

You can safely go to San Martin Street and choose from many small shops or large shopping mall Atlantico Sur duty free . The assortment is approximately the same everywhere. For a change, you can return from the center to the docks next to the canal and wander around the covered souvenir market. There are interesting finds here that will remind you of the southernmost city on the planet. Cards are accepted everywhere except the market.

Punta Arenas also has two points of attraction for shopaholics: a huge duty-free shopping center located on the outskirts of the city Zona Franka and the city center, where they sell souvenirs (Chile tipico) and works of local artists (Almacen antano).

To get to Zona Franka, you need to take a taxi (from 10 USD) or take a minibus (collective) with a Zona Franka sign (1.5 USD), which depart from the bus terminal every 15 minutes.

The shopping center is a whole block of malls and open-air fairs and is open from 10:30 to 20:30.

Bars

In Tierra del Fuego they have a special love for pubs, where the number of varieties of beer and ale served makes one's eyes wide open.

In Punta Arenas I especially want to note La Taberna, Jekus And Olijoe Pub, where good drinks are served in a nice interior. But the food is usually very mediocre everywhere.

In Ushuaia they praise Ideal, Dublin And Galway, but about Viagro There are different reviews.

These bars are known far beyond Tierra del Fuego, and the average bill corresponds to this reputation.

If you want something more democratic, go further from the center and look for places where locals drink beer. They only serve one or two varieties, the paint on the walls is peeling, and no one understands a word of English. But authenticity goes over the edge.

Clubs and nightlife

Punta Arenas has several nightclubs such as Nanos, Kamikaze, El Madero(admission is free) and Club(entry costs 4.5 USD and includes one drink). All of them are located in the center, with the exception of Nanos, which is located northwest of the city cemetery.

In Ushuaia night life It’s not in full swing: mostly tourists and locals spend their leisure time in bars and pubs. But there is one restaurant with beautiful view to the bay where the DJ is playing ( Dreamland). And for tango lovers there is a bar every weekend Milonga del Fin del Mundo.

Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

The most popular souvenirs in Tierra del Fuego are penguins of all types and sizes. Wooden, ceramic, plush and even semi-precious stones. These figurines cost from 1 USD to 120 USD depending on the material.

The second most popular thing brought from the End of the Earth is products made from sheep's wool. These can be hats, mittens, slippers, sweaters and blankets of all colors of the rainbow and with patterns. In more expensive stores, styles and colors become calmer, and the quality of products increases along with the price. In a street tent you can buy a pullover for 20 USD, and in a boutique prices go up to 400 USD.

How to get around the island

Punta Arenas and - small towns, in the center of which it is quite possible to walk on foot. If you are tired and cold, you can use taxis that stop at the wave of your hand. A trip from one end of the city to the other will cost 10–15 USD, to the airport - 20 USD.

Public transport in these cities there is no such class, and the only alternative to taxis are rental cars (you can look at car rental offers, say,) or bicycles (if you decide to ride a bicycle in gusty winds).

Tierra del Fuego - holidays with children

Holidays with children under 5 years old in Tierra del Fuego can become a real test of strength: severe weather can ruin all the fun of the trip.

But older children will be delighted with majestic nature surrounding them, from the fur seals, penguins and whales they will see on excursions.

Ski holiday

From June to October people come to Punta Arenas to ski. The Cerro Mirador ski resort is located just 8 kilometers from the city and offers 11 kilometers of slopes with magnificent views of the city and the Strait of Magellan. A day ski pass costs 38 USD for an adult and 23 USD for a child.

Around Ushuaia ski resort Cerro Castor is even steeper than in Punta Arenas - it has 29 kilometers of slopes and 8 lifts with a height difference of 860 meters. The pleasure of riding here will cost 65 USD for an adult and 45 USD for a child.

Anything to add?