The highest mountain to climb. The most difficult and dangerous mountains to climb. Climbing today
Elbrus, Kilimanjaro and other famous peaks up to 7 km high, climbing which does not require mountaineering training
Climbers have an informal association called the “7 Summits Club”. It includes those who managed to visit the highest mountains of each continent. Paradoxically, there are also some on this list that can be easily conquered by those who have never been interested in mountaineering. IN good weather Elbrus and Kilimanjaro “allow”, as experienced climbers say, not only trained specialists, but also simply healthy and hardy ones. Mont Blanc and Olympus are also favorable to ordinary tourists - and there are only a dozen peaks around the world up to 7 kilometers high, whose names are well-known.
Lenin Peak - 7134 m
First recorded ascent - 1928
This mountain was one of the highest in the USSR, and for five such peaks, Soviet climbers received the title “Snow Leopard”. Now, when the mountain tourism industry has reached such a stage of development that a more or less prepared “teapot” can be dragged with oxygen even to Everest, Lenin Peak is usually called the most accessible seven-thousander.
It is accessible, firstly, because from Osh you can drive by car almost to the very foot of the mountain, and from there to base camp- lift equipment on pack horses. Secondly, the classic route through the Razdelnaya peak does not require serious technical work: by and large, it is enough to be able to walk and listen to the guide. But low temperatures, thin air, the need to wait for the weather at serious altitudes for many became the reason for failure - statistics say that the “most accessible” seven-thousander allows only every tenth person.
The key to success here is excellent physical shape, good weather and proper acclimatization. If the first depends on the climber himself, and the second does not depend on anyone, then the third is entirely in the hands of a good high-altitude guide. Therefore, in July, dozens of climbers flock to the Alai Valley, wandering from camp to camp, making training trips, attempting assaults and waiting for the weather. Here you can meet those for whom this is the first seven-thousander, and those who are here “pacing” in front of the formidable Pobeda Peak. There is never a dull moment in the camps or on the route - the tan from the snow will give your face a purple tint, and the majestic landscapes of the Pamirs are beautiful from any height.
Mera Peak - 6476 m
First recorded ascent - 1953
Lukla Airport is called the most dangerous in the world - landing strip runs up the mountain between the houses, and above it, in the breaks in the clouds, aircraft with the inscriptions Yeti or Buddha Airlines masterfully maneuver. The classic route from the Mera-La pass, although it is ice, does not require mountaineering training, and the necessary skills are developed during acclimatization trips. It is acclimatization that becomes the decisive factor: do not believe the agent who says that you can “run” to the summit from base camp (5300 m) in one day - the chances will be 50/50 at best. To ensure success, you need to spend the night in a camp at a height of 5800 and from there advance to the assault. In this case, 9 out of 10 people reach the top, who get a magnificent view of 5 of the 6 highest mountains on the planet: Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu. From here you can see the beautiful Ama-Dablam pyramid, the impregnable Baruntse and Chamlang and other equally famous peaks of the Himalayas. Although a successful climb to Mera Peak is unlikely to amaze an experienced climber, it is at this peak that you can take a magnificent photo against the backdrop of the harsh wall of Everest.
Kilimanjaro - 5895 m
First recorded ascent - 1889
Actually, Kilimanjaro has several peaks: the lowest - 4005 m - is the extinct volcano Shira, opposite it is a peak of 5183 m, where serious climbers climb. And the highest is the dormant Kibo volcano with a crater almost 3 km in diameter and Uhuru Peak, which everyone climbs.
There are 6 routes leading up. The most popular, easiest and most comfortable - with overnight stays in huts - is the Marangu route. The second most popular - more difficult, more picturesque, with beautiful rocks - is the Machame path. Rongai is the only route from the north, starting from the Kenyan border: the least popular among people, so you can even meet elephants on the trail. Lemosho and Shira are two variations (the second is more difficult) of one route across the Shira plateau: you get to the starting point in jeeps, and you can get to the finish by two roads, depending on the weather and the well-being of the group. The Umbwe route is the shortest and most difficult: in the middle it involves an assault on the rocky wall of Barranco; due to the sharp rise in altitude, this is where they most often fail. The Mweka Trail is for downhill only. From an altitude of 4800 m, lifeless lava fields and completely lunar landscapes begin, behind them is the zone of eternal snow, sung by Hemingway. By the way, the snowy top of Africa is melting faster and faster every year, so more and more people come every year to look at it and touch the African snow with their own hands.
Everyone meets at the top, at the sign: “Congratulations, you are here - Uhuru Peak, 5895 m.” Every day during the season, hundreds of trekkers storm the mountain, but about a third return with nothing: despite the absence of technical difficulties, the height and sharp drop temperatures do their job. There is heavy traffic on the routes, it is impossible to get lost, but independent ascents of Kilimanjaro are prohibited: tourists are allowed national park only accompanied by a local guide.
Elbrus - western peak 5642 m, eastern - 5621 m
First recorded ascent - 1829 (east peak), 1874 (west peak)
Elbrus has long been challenging Mont Blanc for the right to be called the highest point in Europe. The debate, of course, is not about the heights, which are obvious, but about whether the Caucasus is really located in Europe. Be that as it may, this is one of the most popular routes for mountain tourists all over the world. In the summer, in good weather, dozens of people walk up, like along a wide avenue, and on the path you can hear speech in all languages, including Japanese, and somewhere in Amsterdam you can meet a cheerful old cyclist in a commemorative T-shirt with the inscription Elbrus 5642.
The classic route is really not technically difficult - you can climb to an altitude of 3700 m from the south by cable car, spend the night there in the Bochki shelter, and the next night ride a snowcat (mountain crawler tractor) to an altitude of 4100 m and from there cover the remaining one and a half kilometers in crampons and with an ice ax, meeting one of the most beautiful sunrises of my life. The decision to climb to one or another peak of an extinct volcano is made at the saddle - it depends on the weather, the well-being of the participants and the condition of the slope. In case of good weather and general luck, the ascent takes about 13 hours and in the evening the group is already accepting congratulations at dinner in Terskol. The guides say that any persistent and physically healthy person can climb Elbrus. We drove to the top by motorcycle and even by car. The main thing is to be lucky with the weather.
Ararat - 5165 m
First recorded ascent - 1829
Bureaucratic delays are the only difficulty that awaits tourists. The Iskhafan Hotel, where they usually stay, is always in chaos: someone has definitely forgotten to send permission, or even turned away an entire group. Usually all problems are resolved in favor of visitors, and the mountain itself does not require any technical skills in the warm season: however, the Kurds who work here as guides are afraid of snow, but they hang the railings properly and sing cheerful songs. The ascent plan is usually as follows: two acclimatization trips in two days - one of them to Little Ararat (3925 m) - and an assault on the third day. And the short hike to the very top, where the eternal snow lies, should be considered an adventure, and not as hard work. They even work upstairs Cell phones- so you can call your friends and accept congratulations. However, due to the strong wind, you won’t be able to stand at the top for long - you need to quickly examine Armenia, Turkey and Iran lying below, the tornadoes walking in the valley and the giant shadow of Ararat covering the earth. The question of whether Noah's Ark really landed here remains open.
Mont Blanc - 4808 m
First recorded ascent - 1786
August 8, 1786 can be considered the birthday of mountaineering as a pastime, and Mont Blanc is the birthplace of this fun for “the strong in spirit, the weak in mind.” Now, walking along the classic route from Saint-Gervais, you can no longer understand how hard this route cost the pioneers - these days, in good weather, the traffic here is as dense as on the Champs-Elysees.
The legend of Soviet mountaineering, Mikhail Khergiani, recalled his climb to Mont Blanc: “There are so many people going there - I’ve never seen so many! We put our hands in our pockets, ice picks under our arms and run. It took us five hours to get to the top.” By the way, the total altitude gain in 5-6 hours is very impressive - more than a kilometer, so a “walk” that is not difficult from a technical point of view requires competent acclimatization, endurance and a certain stubbornness. Also keep in mind that it is not customary for European guides to expose clients to any inconvenience: for example, if there is a strong wind blowing on the pre-summit ridge, but climbing is still possible, the guide may suggest returning and waiting for milder weather. Therefore, it is better to discuss with him in advance what is more important to you - comfort or a successful ascent. Of course, such agreements do not apply to potentially dangerous episodes. Another way is no less popular - by lift from Chamonix, with an overnight stay in the Cosmic hut and departure for the assault at one or two in the morning. A line of headlamps in the dark moves through the peaks of Mont Blanc de Taculle and Mont Maudi to Mont Blanc itself: the dawn with a panorama of the Alps ruddy in the morning sun becomes a reward for those who are ready to overcome several gains and losses of altitude in a row. The funniest thing is that at the top, where they take pictures and drink champagne, Alpine jackdaws calmly soar in the air currents - and beg people for chocolate.
Belukha - 4506 m
First recorded ascent - 1914
Climbing Belukha still needs to be earned - approaches to it take almost half of the total time allotted for the climb. The trail first goes along the boiling mountain river and along forested foothills, and all the difficulties begin the moment the snow appears. Belukha got its name because of the constant snow cover - even in summer, despite its not very impressive height, its top sparkles under the sun like a sugarloaf.
Before entering the ice route, climbers undergo instructions. Of course, the instructors lay out the trail and put up the railings - tourists can only follow their instructions and pray for good weather (it usually rains in the afternoon).
The most impressive section on the classic route is the Delaunay Pass: 300 meters of ice at an angle of 45-55 degrees. They pass it in bunches and wearing crampons, the pictures from here turn out quite heroic. The chances of getting caught in a storm on Belukha are quite high - the weather in the mountains is always unpredictable and can make even the simplest path dangerous. Therefore, on Belukha it is customary to argue that this mountain, sacred to the Altai people, allows someone in easily, but blocks the way for others with snowfall and winds.
Because of this mystical aura, Belukha attracts not only climbers, but also fans of Roerich, who began his trans-Himalayan expedition from here, as well as seekers of Shambhala and other enthusiastic people. Therefore, when planning your trip to Altai, it is worth checking whether, for example, the end of the world has been declared in the near future - chaos will reign around Belukha due to the crowds of pilgrims.
Fuji - 3776 m
Climbing the mountain, sacred to the Japanese, became possible only a century and a half ago - previously only pilgrims climbed here, but now during the season crowds of people come to the top every day: some in shorts and flip-flops, and some with oxygen cylinders. There are four routes - one from each side of the world; all of which are described in detail by tour guide Tomoyuki Tokinawa.
The most popular route is a serpentine route across the entire mountain from the north from the town of Kawaguchiko, from where a bus runs to station No. 5 at an altitude of 2300 m. Further to the 10th station there is a well-maintained path with railings, steps, Coca-Cola machines, guest houses, shops and other attributes of the most popular place among tourists. Thanks in principle high speed train from the capital and by bus from Kawaguchiko, the entire trip to the top of Fuji from Tokyo and back can be done in one day. But if you decide to watch the sunrise on main mountain Countries rising sun, then you can spend the night at the 7th or 8th station, and in the morning before dawn go to the top.
If you don’t want to climb Mount Fuji in a crowd, you should go to the top immediately after the official season closes. In fact, this only means the closure of the shops along the road and the post office at the top. In winter, climbing is also possible - but wearing crampons, ice axes and a guide. And if you climb Mount Fuji at the end of spring and are not too lazy to take a snowboard or skis with you, then you can easily descend to Kawaguchiko in just half an hour.
Etna - 3340 m
First recorded ascent - 1st century BC. e.
The tallest and active volcano in Europe, it is also the oldest known to mankind - 500 years BC, Empedocles lived on the edge of its crater, who was going to build a tower here to monitor volcanic activity. The remains of some ancient Greek building on the slope of Etna have actually been discovered, and the shelter from which the walking path to the top begins is called the “Tower of the Philosopher.” An SUV brings tourists to the Tower. He takes people away top station cable car that leads from the Sapienza refuge (near the town of Nicolosi, which can be reached by bus). Thus, if we subtract from the height above sea level everything that is overcome by various transport, then it turns out that there are only 360 meters or so to walk to the top. It’s cool at the top, a cloud can descend (it’s easy to get lost in it), and the evaporation of the active volcano does its job: this hike cannot be called a recreational walk. It is better to go to the volcano with a guide: he knows exactly where the most beautiful views open from, where the slope has not yet cooled down after a recent eruption, which cave you can safely climb into and why the smoke is not coming from the central crater, but from the neighboring one.
Olympus - 2917 m
First recorded ascent - 1913
The abode of the gods includes many mountains of different heights - there are 46 peaks above 2000 m and 47 peaks above 1000 m. The highest are Mytikas (2917 m), Scolio (2911) and Stefani (2909 m). The classic route leads through Skala Peak (2866 m), from where you can go to Skolio or Mitikas - everyone, of course, goes to the highest point of the massif: you can see its popularity by reading the magazine hidden in a stainless steel container at the top. In good weather, you can see Thessaloniki, Halkidiki and even the islands off Turkish coast. It’s cool at the top, so even if it was +35 at sea, you need to take a warm jacket and a raincoat with you: the weather changes rapidly, and there is more rainfall than in all of Greece (the neighboring peak Stefani is still considered the throne of Zeus the Thunderer). In addition, you will need good trekking boots or sneakers that support your ankle tightly: you can climb Mytikas even in beach flip-flops, but the advantages of the right shoes show themselves on the descent.
You don't need a guide - the routes are well marked: even where the trail actually ends and the climbing begins, there are stones marked where to step and which to hold on to. By the way, the E4 markers that you will see along the road are not the Olympic trail, but a trans-European track with a length of more than 10,000 km, invented by the Association of European Tramps. So, having descended from Olympus, the journey can be continued.
Sinai - 2285 m
The first recorded ascent was the 13th century BC. e.
One of the most visited mountains in the world: hundreds of tourists and pilgrims climb it every day. The latter choose a steep path, which consists of a stone staircase with steps of different widths and heights - they say there are about 4000 of them, no one can count them accurately. Since the ascent begins at night (to catch the dawn at the top), tourists usually choose a gentle path. There are rest tents here that sell hot drinks, sweets and rent blankets. And at an altitude of 2000 m, this road connects with the pilgrimage stairs. By the way, it is better to go down the stairs - in daylight it is not at all difficult to walk along them. Previously, there were ten “gates to heaven”; at each one you had to confess your sins according to one of the commandments. Now only two gates remain. The trail also passes the Church of the Prophet Elijah and the Chapel of the Virgin Mary - you can get inside only with an accompanying person from the monastery of St. Catherine, which is clearly visible from the path. This is the oldest Christian monastery - built in 527. It’s good to go into it after climbing, and if you find enough strength in yourself, you can also climb Mount St. Catherine - it’s located next door.
Vesuvius - 1281 m
First recorded ascent - unknown
The only one active volcano known in mainland Europe since 79 AD. e., when a monstrous eruption buried Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabia under a layer of lava and ash, and at the same time destroyed the main cone of the volcano with an explosion. Now the mountain is crowned by a ridge, and inside it a new crater is already smoking. Buses and taxis go up from Herculaneum station. There are only a few tens of meters to go on foot - this is not an ascent at all, but a walk along a good, only very dusty road with railings. Opens from above beautiful view on the Bay of Naples, and under your feet you come across pieces of pumice, which everyone tries to grab as a souvenir. Last eruption, by the way, happened only half a century ago, the volcano is still active, and it is often closed to visitors: not even an eruption, but toxic fumes can be unsafe.
Mountain peaks lost in the clouds have always attracted people with their grandeur and inaccessibility. This is how a person is designed that he needs to assert himself and feel like the ruler of the world. And where else can you experience the intoxicating feeling of omnipotence, if not at a huge height, which even birds cannot reach? Therefore, for many decades, thousands of climbers have been storming the highest mountains of the planet covered with ice and snow in order to prove to themselves and others their exclusivity.
However, mountain peaks are different. Some are friendly towards climbers, while others can be described as the most dangerous mountains, capable of taking the lives of persistent climbers. Their icy slopes are characterized by landslides, avalanches, strong winds, and at high altitudes a lack of oxygen begins to be felt.
The cohort of the most dangerous mountains includes Everest– the most high peak peace. The height of this giant rock formation is 8848 meters. Tens of thousands of professional climbers dream of conquering it. The first ascent to the summit took place on May 29, 1953. Since then, more than 7.5 thousand people have been to the summit, and over 3 thousand people have climbed Everest more than once.
Body dead climber on Everest
But we must not forget about the dead. There are about 300 of them. And who knows, maybe at the moment when you are reading these lines, another climber is dying on the slope of a majestic mountain. This one is huge mountain range has long been called a cemetery for climbers. At the same time, no one removes the bodies of the dead, since there is simply no opportunity for this. Frozen remains in bright clothes lie at different heights for years and begin to serve as landmarks for other climbers.
Thus, the corpse of Indian citizen Tsewang Paljor lay at an altitude of 8.5 thousand meters for 17 years. He was even nicknamed “green boots” because Paljora wore bright green shoes before climbing. And there are a lot of such bodies on the icy slopes of Everest. And people are dying due to severe weather conditions. A piercing icy wind, a temperature of minus 50-60 degrees Celsius, a lack of oxygen in a rarefied atmosphere - all this contributes to the death of climbers. But nothing stops people, and they stubbornly climb up.
More bodies of dead climbers
Nothing good can be said about another mountain in the Himalayas, which bears the name Annapurna. Its height reaches 8091 meters, and all these meters represent one continuous danger, covered with ice growths. Up to 40% of climbers died while conquering this mountain.
In the Himalayas in Pakistan there is a mountain Nanga Parbat with a height of 8126 meters. Before Everest gained popularity among climbers, it was this mountain that ranked first in the number of deaths. She even received the nickname “killer mountain.” In 1953, 62 people died while trying to reach its top. But apparently Nanga Parbat quenched the thirst for blood, and in subsequent years the death rate of climbers decreased significantly. Currently it does not exceed 5.5%.
View of Mount Annapurna
The most dangerous mountains would lose their high status if they did not include such a mountain peak as Kanchenjunga with an altitude of 8586 meters. It is located in the Himalayas and is considered the third highest in the world. For climbers, it is a real nightmare due to inclement weather and constant avalanches. The mortality rate among those who dream of conquering this wayward mountain reaches 25%.
The mountain can boast of no less bloodthirstiness. Chogori with a height of 8614 meters, also belonging to the Himalayas. The conditions for climbing there are extreme. The harsh peak does not forgive even the most insignificant mistakes, and therefore every 4th climber who dreams of conquering it dies. In winter, climbing is not possible at all.
However, not only the Himalayas can boast of the most dangerous mountains. The Alps, located in prosperous Europe, pose no less danger. Here the leading position is occupied by such a mountain peak as Mont Blanc with a maximum height of 4810 meters. The first ascent of this mountain range dates back to August 8, 1786. In 1808 majestic mountain conquered by the woman Maria Paradis. However, over more than 200 years, several thousand climbers have died on the slopes of Mont Blanc, and therefore the mountain is considered the record holder for mortality.
View of Mount Eiger
Another mountain in the Alps poses a great danger - Eiger. It is located in Switzerland, and the height of this mountain formation reaches 3970 meters. The Eiger is considered one of the deadliest peaks in the world, although its height is not very impressive. This peak is often called the “cannibal”. It is notable for its large elevation differences and constantly changing weather. Over the course of a century and a half of ascents, this peak claimed the lives of 65 people.
Among the most dangerous mountains in the world is Matterhorn- a mountain peak in the Alps on the border of Switzerland and Italy with a height of 4478 meters. This is one of the most difficult peaks to conquer in the Alpine mountains. His northern slope considered inaccessible and technically difficult to climb. Avalanches and rockfalls also occur frequently on the Matterhorn. True, despite this, the wayward peak was conquered twice in 1865. But one of the groups of 4 people on the way back fell into the abyss due to a broken cable.
View of Mount Matterhorn
But the most dangerous mountains in the world are not only in Eurasia. They are also in America. Here you can call Fitzroy with a height of 3359 meters. Its location is Patagonia, on the border between Chile and Argentina. This majestic granite peak is one of the most dangerous for climbers in the world. Only one successful ascent is recorded here per year.
Climbers face two problems. The first is in a steep section 600 meters high. The second problem comes down to inclement weather. It can last for weeks and kills any desire to climb rocks. In addition, you can only climb Fitzroy from December to February, when summer reigns in the Southern Hemisphere.
View of Mount Fitzroy
Relatively popular among rock climbers Vinson massif, located in Antarctica. Its height reaches 4892 meters. However, the mountains of Antarctica are not considered difficult to climb by mountaineers. Since 1958, at least one and a half thousand people have climbed to their peaks. The most difficult thing is to get to the massif, but Antarctica favors penguins more than people. Therefore, disappearing forever in a snowstorm does not seem to be a big problem here.
Mountains have always attracted man, challenging him. The bravest ones accepted it, but, unfortunately, not everyone returned back. When it comes to the most dangerous mountains to climb, many people think of Mount Everest. From Tibetan it is translated as “Mother of the Universe”, and from Nepali - “Top of the Sky”. The height of Everest is 8844.43 meters above sea level, and the wind speed at the top reaches 200 km/h. Air temperatures can drop to -60 degrees Celsius. Despite such Spartan conditions, the most high mountain is far from the most dangerous.
Top most dangerous peaks in the world
Unlike Everest, there are many others in the world mountain peaks, which took dozens of lives of daredevils who were not afraid to challenge nature. Every year the statistics change, but it is still possible to identify several of the most majestic and impregnable giants.
Annapurna
The height of this mountain is 8091 meters. Of all the 14 peaks in the world whose height exceeds the eight-kilometer mark, Annapurna was one of the first to be conquered. It is noteworthy that this happened completely by accident. A French group of climbers led by Maurice Herzog set out to conquer a completely different peak, namely Dhaulagiri, but the latest reconnaissance made it clear that another mountain could be conquered. This is exactly what Annapurna turned out to be, which is the northernmost peak of all the Himalayas. The climb to the summit began on June 3, 1950. Despite the fact that all members of the expedition remained alive, the mountain still made them feel on the verge of life and death. Without exception, everyone suffered severe frostbite, and Maurice Herzog was the least fortunate, because throughout the entire descent he had to have his toes and fingers amputated.
Today Annapurna has already been conquered one and a half hundred times. The mortality rate during the conquest, starting in 1950, was 41%, which is incredibly high. For example, if we compare this indicator with the mortality rate during climbing Everest, then at the last peak it is only 7.4%. It is also worth noting that Annapurna, as a rule, is conquered only by professional climbers who have extensive experience behind them. As for Everest, beginners often go there too. IN in this case A fairly simple law applies - technological progress significantly reduces the mortality rate, but not every peak is in a hurry to follow it.
The famous professional climber Ed Vitus, originally from America, who conquered the most dangerous mountains to climb, decided to leave Annapurna for dessert. After the climb, he noted that this mountain is truly the most dangerous peak in the world. It is completely covered with ice, on top of which there are ice growths, and the greatest danger lies in the fact that it is never known where this or that growth will deviate next time.
Chogori (2 K2 or Dopsang)
The height of this peak is 8614 meters. In terms of complexity, it is second only to Annaprurna, and in height - to Everest. This mountain was discovered in 1856, but they dared to conquer it only a century later. This was done by Italian climber Ardito Desio together with a team of like-minded people. This happened in 1954, exactly 52 years later, as the famous occultist of those times, Aleister Crowley, tried to do, but his attempt was not crowned with success. To date, almost 300 people have conquered the peak, and almost 70 climbers have died. The mortality rate remains within 25%, which means that every fourth daredevil who tries to conquer the top of K2 dies.
Russian climbers also left a noticeable mark on the history of the conquest of this mountain. This happened on August 21, 2007. It is noteworthy that they set out to conquer the peak along the most difficult path. Many believed that it was simply impossible to reach the top along the western wall of the summit, but the Russians were able to prove the opposite. The same path, but only in winter, remains untouched to this day.
Nangaparbat
This peak is located in Pakistan and is part of the Himalayas. Its height is 8125 meters, and local residents nicknamed it “killer mountain” or “swallower of people.” Nanga Parbat is considered the westernmost peak of the Himalayas. The sad statistics of mortality began to start from the first attempt to conquer the peak. This happened in 1895, when the mountain took one of the best climbers of that time - the British Albert Mummery. Since then, the mountain has claimed the lives of more than 60 people. 263 people were able to reach the top. The mortality rate is 23%, that is, every fifth person who took on the challenge of the “killer mountain” died.
Experts note that the main cause of high mortality is unfavorable climatic factors. As a result of the rather arid climate at the foot of the mountain, this provokes a strong jump in temperature. All this contributes to the fact that the weather can change at any moment, as well as trigger deadly avalanches. Recently, the human factor has also influenced the mountain’s unpleasant fame. For example, in 2010, Taliban militants attacked a mountaineering camp at the foot of the mountain and killed 10 people.
By the way, Nanga Parbat is the only mountain in the world, when approaching it you can see a solid wall in front of you, the height of which is 4 and a half kilometers.
Kanchenjunga
The height of the peak is 8586 meters, thanks to which it ranks third in the list of all eight-thousanders in the world. It is the easternmost peak of the Himalayas. The first attempt to conquer the year took place in 1905 and the already mentioned Aleister Crowley tried to do it, but the ascent was not crowned with success. It took 50 years to reach the top and go back down. Throughout history, almost 200 people have conquered the mountain, 5 of them were women.
Many people say that Kanchenjunga is a female mountain, and therefore she loves to take to her forever climbers who are not afraid to challenge her. The mortality rate is 22%, and unlike other peaks in the world, Mount Kangchenjunga only increases this statistic. Every year he takes more and more human lives.
Trying to conquer the highest mountain in the world - Everest, hundreds of climbers lost their lives. Many believe that Everest is not only the tallest mountain in the world, but also the most deadly to climb. This is not entirely true. Some 3,000 climbers have successfully reached Everest's peak, including a 13-year-old blind child and a 73-year-old woman who this month broke her own record for the oldest female climber. This collection contains five mountains believed to be more deadly for climbers than Everest.
1. Kanchenjunga India
28,169 feet (8,585.9 meters)
Climbers attempted to conquer Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world, for fifty years, but were only able to reach its highest point in 1955. The mountain, which is famous for constant avalanches and inclement weather, does not have any routes or paths. The death rate on this mountain has reached as much as 22% since the 1990s. Only 187 climbers were able to reach the summit of Kanchenjunga.
2. K2 (Jogori)
Located between China and Pakistan.
28,251 feet (8,611 meters)
K2 is responsible for the death of one in four climbers who make it to the top level. Conquering the holy grail of mountaineering means dealing with steeper, icier slopes and less predictable weather than Everest. Since 1954, 280 people have conquered the mountain. Since 1939, dozens have been registered deaths, most of which occurred during the descent. The mortality rate on this mountain has reached 19.7% since the 1990s.
3. Annapurna
Central Nepal
26,545 feet (8,091 meters)
Since the first ascent in 1950, only 130 people have climbed Annapurna, and approximately 53 have died attempting it. This mountain ranks 10th among the highest mountains in the world. But despite this, it has a mortality rate of 41% (that's almost like 50/50)
4. Nanga Parbat, Kashmir
26,657 ft (8126 m)
The mountain has the nickname "man-sink". Nangaparbat - ninth most big mountain in the world. The wall of ice on its southern side has hypnotized climbers since its first successful ascent in 1953. 263 people have climbed the mountain and 62 people have died trying. (Most of the deaths occurred before 1953). Mortality rate is 5.5% (Everest has 4.4)
5. Eiger, Switzerland
13,000 feet (3,962 meters)
Translated from German, Eiger means cannibal. Mount Eiger is far from the highest, but this did not stop it from acquiring a reputation as one of the most deadly - dangerous mountains in the world. The most dangerous place here is a “death wall”, the length of which is 6,000 feet (2 kilometers). This gap is dangerous because blocks of melting ice often fall from it, so it is safer to climb during the coldest months. The mountain was first conquered in 1938. 64 climbers died trying to conquer the mountain.
When attempts are made to conquer the highest and most dangerous peaks, the process resembles “hussar roulette.” First of all, we are talking about climbing eight-thousander mountains. It is well known that at an altitude of 5000 m above sea level in the body of a person who has not undergone special training, a lack of oxygen appears, his adaptation and overall performance decrease.
At an altitude of more than 8000 meters, the amount of oxygen decreases significantly and is only 30% of the norm required for the human body; such conditions are very dangerous for health.
So, the most dangerous mountains are where the so-called physiological zone of the atmosphere ends.
Tibet, Western Nepal
Mountain (Tibet, Western Nepal) - 8091 meters above sea level. The Annapurna mountain range is part of the Main Himalayan Range. Annapurna Peak is considered the most difficult summit to climb. In confirmation of this are the names of the mountains given local residents: Durga - “Unapproachable”, Kali - “Black”, “Terrible”. The fatality rate when trying to conquer it reaches 41%.
Annapurna
Annapurna gained fame as the first eight-thousander in history to be conquered by man. It was first overcome by the Frenchmen Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on June 3, 1950. They spent about 14 days descending from the mountain; severe frostbite resulted in the loss of all their toes, and Maurice also had frostbite on his hands. It is also believed that this is the most outstanding achievement in the history of world mountaineering.
Since the first ascent, 130 more people have attempted to reach the summit. In terms of the danger that awaits climbers, Annapurna has no equal in the world. One of the biggest tragedies happened here in 2014, when 39 climbers were caught in snow storms and a series of avalanches. Everyone died.
Chogori K2
The mountain peak in the Karakoram, Chogori K2 - 8611 meters above the sea surface, occupies the second position among the highest points in the world. It rises up on the border of Pakistan and China. Chogori is considered dangerous for a person to climb from a technical point of view. Even the easiest of its routes involve overcoming steep rocks and glaciers in the form of overhanging blocks and pillars. It is technical difficulties that explain the 25% mortality rate of extreme sports enthusiasts trying to conquer K2.
Most climbers prefer to climb the route from Pakistan. But here, too, danger awaits them - the narrowest place of the path, where avalanches can catch them at any moment. It is considered impossible to conquer K2 in winter.
Nanga Parbat
Mount Chogori, in terms of the technical complexity of the routes, is slightly inferior to Mount Nanga Parbat (“Bare Mountain”), reaching 8126 m. The peak is located in the northwestern part Himalayan mountains. Getting to the top is only possible by walking along a very narrow ridge - the southern side (4600 meters high) is recognized as the largest mountain slope in the world.
Nanga Parbat was first climbed in 1953 by Hermann Buhl. The rock climber undertook a 40-hour climb without the aid of an ice ax or oxygen. Since then, 263 people have climbed it, and 62 climbers have died over the entire period. The mortality rate is 21%. The mountains received the well-deserved name “Killer Mountains” and “Man Absorbers”. But, despite this, the mountain attracts extreme sports enthusiasts, especially the non-criminal ice wall of the southern slope, and daredevils challenge it.
Kanchenjunga
In India there is another dangerous mountain to climb - Kanchenjunga (“Mountain of Five Treasures”). This is the highest point of the Himalayas - 8586 meters above the sea surface and the third highest in the world.
For half a century, Kanchenjunga remained unconquered, and only in 1955 climbers managed to reach its peak. There are no established routes or trails on the mountain. Frequent inclement weather and regular avalanches add to the difficulties. During all this time, only 187 athletes managed to reach its peak. It is worth noting that the number of deaths is only increasing over time, and today it is 22%.
Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc (" White Mountain") - the highest mountain Western Europe- 4810 meters. Nearby, on the mountain range of the same name, there are popular ski resorts Chamonix and Courmayeur.
The technical characteristics of the climb to Mont Blanc are not particularly difficult, but accidents occur every year. Adverse effects weather and regular avalanches. For the first time, the British, William Wyndham and Richard Pocock, climbed the mountain next to Mont Blanc in 1741. And already in August 1786, Michel Paccard and Jacques Balmat conquered Mont Blanc.
Matterhorn
The Matterhorn (4478 meters) is known for its uniqueness. Its shape is very reminiscent of a horn, as if growing out of a valley. It is located in a picturesque alpine area, in the border zone between Italy and Switzerland. Despite its relatively low altitude, this peak has the highest mortality rate in the Alps. Difficulty is defined as: avalanches, rockfalls, technical characteristics and load on the routes.
In Switzerland there is another dangerous mountain - the Eiger ("Man-Eater"), with a height of only 3,962 meters. The most dangerous thing is the so-called “death wall”, 2000 meters long, from which blocks of melted ice break off and slide down. For safety reasons, climbers storm the peak during the hungriest months of the year. The Eiger was first conquered in 1938. During this time, 64 athletes died on its slopes.
Broad Peak is located in Pakistan; climbers climb its two highest peaks - 8028 and 8051 m above sea level. The laurels of the pioneer of ascents to the Peak belong to the legendary Hermann Buhl. He first conquered the peak himself, and in 1957 he undertook the ascent, leading a team of Austrian climbers. The fatality rate for attempting to climb Broad Peak is 5%.
Gasherbrum
Pakistan's Mount Gasherbrum I ("Beautiful Mountain"), 8,068 meters high, has a 9% climbing fatality rate. It was first climbed in 1958 by climbers from America. They undertook a successful expedition of eight people, led by the most famous and experienced climbers of the time, Pete Schonning and Andy Kaufman. The climb to the top of Gasherbrum is recognized by experts as not difficult, but 8% of those who want to climb to the top die on its slopes.
Nepal gave the world Makalau (“Black Giant”). Its height is 8481 meters above the surface of the sea. It resembles a very steep four-sided pyramid. Desperate daredevils (9%) die here every year while descending from the mountain. There are regular shifts of ice blocks and a high probability of storm winds (up to 120 km per hour); in winter the air temperature reaches minus 40 degrees.
In Nepal there is also the “Mountain of the Spirit” - Manaslu (8156 meters). It was first conquered by Japanese climbers in 1956. The mortality rate among climbers is 10%, due to the consequences of avalanches, landslides, and monsoon winds. One of the most famous and terrible incidents: the camp, set up at an altitude of 6500 meters, was literally erased from the cliff. The entire expedition, consisting of 15 people, perished.
Dhaulagiri
The Nepalese man-eating mountain is Dhaulagiri I (“White Mountain”), the height reaches 8167 m. The mortality rate during ascents is 16%, the main reason is frequent and strong avalanches. Its southern side is considered completely inaccessible for climbing. But these characteristics excite desperate climbers even more.
Everest
Slightly less dangerous is climbing the highest and most famous mountain point in the world - Everest or Chomolungma (“Mother of the Universe”, “Divine Mother of Snows”), rises to 8848 m. It is located on the border area between Nepal and China. Everest is also a whole mountain range, which includes the peak of Lhotse - 8516 m, Nuptse - 7861 m and Changtse - 7543 m.
Climbing Everest is very popular among experienced climbers. The standard climbing route does not have any difficult technical characteristics, but climbers are plagued by strong winds, changeable weather conditions, and lack of oxygen.
Everest rises above the surface 3-6 centimeters upward every year and moves 7 centimeters to the northeast. Every year, up to 30 people die trying to conquer Elbrus, the highest peak in Europe (5642 m). Elbrus is an extinct volcano located in the western Caucasus. The summit is covered with an ice blanket consisting of 22 glaciers.
It is also worth noting the highest and most dangerous mountain points continents:
- In the Andes, South America - the peak of Aconcagua, 6959 m high. Although from the point of view of mountaineering it is considered not difficult.
- IN North America– Mount McKinley, height 6135 m. Extreme sports enthusiasts prefer climbing from May to July.
- In Africa, on the territory of Tanzania, there is the famous Kilimanjaro 5895 m. Every year, the peak “considers” attempts to climb up to 40,000 amateur climbers.
- The highest peak in Antarctica is Vinson Peak, 4892 m high. It is located 1200 kilometers from South Pole Earth.
- Mount Puncak Jaya 4884 m – highest point Australia and Oceania is located in Indonesia. It was first overcome in 1962 by climbers from Austria, led by Heinrich Garrer. The mountain has a high technical rating, which attracts extreme sports enthusiasts.
