Traditional folk boat “Soima. Model of the Novgorod Soyma. Ship modeling. young model designer Saima boat making Finland

Sees a dream by the sea soyma
E. G. Guro. Day through a cloud - dune (1910-1913)

The term “soima” is recorded in historical and fiction literature as the name of common river and lake vessels used in the Gulf of Finland, Lake Ladoga, Onega and inflowing rivers around the 16th century. Most researchers believe that the design of the “soyma” was developed in Novgorod; archaeologists have not yet found ancient “soyms”; we know the design and performance characteristics of this vessel from sources of the 17th century.

1) Existing etymology

A) Max Vasmer's Etymological Dictionary

Soyma, "one-masted ship with a deck", Ladoga, Onezhsk. (Dal), Olonetsk. (Kulik.), archang. (Under.), old. soym - the same, from Peter I. Borrowed. from Olonetsk saimu "small sailing ship with a deck", people, Veps. soim, Finnish soima "large boat, pontoon boat", probably related by alternation with Finn. saima "kind of boat"; see Kalima 219; Leskov, Zhst., 1892, issue. 4, p. 102.
(Mentioned in written monuments since 1576; see Shmele;v, VSYA, 5, p. 195. - T.)

B) S.A. Myznikov, St. Petersburg. About vocabulary of Baltic-Finnish origin in Kostroma dialects

* Soyma, a boat with two sails...1860... In the middle of the soyma there is a keel, it sinks 60-70 cm into the water, and therefore can sail towards the wind...
* Rank of ships from the canal to the Neva River: polubarok, vodovik, soyma (Moskov. Ved., 1764, No. 17).

B) Leskov N. On the influence of the Karelian language on Russian within the Olonets province // Living Antiquity. 1892. Issue. 4. pp. 97 – 103.
Soyma is a river or lake vessel. This word is the same with the Korelian and Finnish “soima”, “saima” is a large open or only half-closed ship.

D) Almanac “Solovetsky Sea” No. 6. 2007, A. Epatko

* Notes of the Novoladoga captain Mordvinov about his four-time trip to Solovki http://www.solovki.info/?action=archive&id=394

“The origin of the very name “soima” is interesting. Most likely, this is a derivative of the Finnish word “suomi” (literally: land of Sum). This was the name of the tribe that lived on the territory of modern Finland and subsequently gave its name to the entire country. It is likely that the Ladoga soyma is a type of ancient Finnish vessel, mastered over the years by the Karelians and later by the Novgorodians.”

* Almanac “Solovetsky Sea”. No. 7. 2008, Construction of the Ladoga soima “St. Arseny”: http://www.solovki.info/?action=archive&id=435

“Not a single insurance company in Russia has undertaken to insure ships sailing with cargo on open Ladoga. Only in 1858 did the Admiralty equip an expedition to Ladoga under the leadership of an experienced hydrographer, Colonel A.P. Andreeva. He was tasked with filming Lake Ladoga, map its coasts, lighthouses, describe the most dangerous capes, shoals, reefs and determine wind directions.

The researcher’s task also included a detailed inspection of local types of boats. Describing them, Andreev noted the extraordinary seaworthiness of a two-masted fishing boat - a soyma. At the same time, he came to the conclusion that nothing is known about the design of the ships that sailed on Ladoga during the times of Veliky Novgorod.”

“While visiting the surrounding monasteries on duty, the colonel noticed that the icons of the local ascetics depicted ships quite similar to the Ladoga soimas of the present time. “Based on this similarity,” the colonel wrote, “and taking into account that the Ladoga soymas have retained some primitive character to this day, we can conclude that the ships of the Novgorodians were almost the same as the current soymas.”

“Admiral Count Apraksin wrote to Menshikov with alarm in 1716: “It is ordered to make ten thousand people, so that more is better, soims who go to Murmansk.” Further, Apraksin complains in the same letter that “we don’t know a sample of those soymas and there are no craftsmen or supplies.” A month later, Menshikov reports to the Tsar: “I went to the Senate and they advised me on what method to make the soyma known to you, which is what the merchant people of Ladoga are called to do, who do not deny it, they only ask for a model vessel, which is the only one I found here.” An interesting fact emerges from this sovereign correspondence: in the first quarter of the 18th century. Ladoga residents didn’t even know what a soyma looked like!”

2) Application of the term in Russian

A) Dictionary of the Russian language XI-XVII centuries, RAS, M., 2002, issue. 26
http://etymolog.ruslang.ru/doc/xi-xvii_26.pdf

Soyma. A small river or lake vessel with one sail (1366). “That summer of Veliky Novgorod, Novgorodians in Nizhny Novgorod the guests were caught and robbed in<с>"Oymakh has come." Arhan. years., XVII-XVI centuries.

B) National Corpus of the Russian Language

N. I. Berezin. Walking along the Karelian waterfalls (1903): “Have you seen the kind of ships here; Galiot and Soima. ... After all, the soyma, the Novgorodians sailed here on the soyma, and Peter will teach you how to build galliots.”

3) Generalization and conclusion

Soima is a “sewn” keel vessel designed for sailing on the open sea and in the basins of giant lakes (Ladoga, Onega). They had different sizes, small boats were used for local shipping and fishing, larger deck “soymas” were intended for transporting people and cargo, and were used in military operations and sea fishing until the 50s of the 20th century.

A) The original design of the “soyma”

The stems (bow and stern beams) are rolled back, the hull is sewn with roots (roots) - a flexible design that facilitates navigation in shallow areas of the sea and lakes, where short, steep waves arise during rough seas. Depth of Neva Bay Gulf of Finland 2-6-15 m.; depth on Ladoga is 3-20-70 m, stormy winds are frequent; Onega – avg. 20-70 m, frequent waves, wave heights up to 3.5 m. When fishing, vessels are often close to each other, the stem tilted back eliminated the possibility of catching the side of another vessel in rough seas or lakes.

We can conclude that the “soyma” was intended for sailing on the open sea and in lakes Ladoga and Onega; this boat-vessel was able to withstand stormy weather and navigate a stormy sea or lake. Consequently, her name should contain a description of the seaworthiness of the vessel; ambiguity in the language, which language did the term belong to?

B) Monasteries

During the monastic colonization of the North, a number of monasteries were founded, some of them were located on islands. Along with cultural and religious activities for Christianization local population, the monks were engaged in crafts: shipbuilding, commercial fishing, salt making and trading (salt, fish, pearls). Large monasteries, in order to ensure economic and military activities, had their own flotillas of river and sea vessels.

* White Sea: Nikolo-Karelian Monastery, main. in 1410; Solovetsky Monastery(islands), main in 1420-30
* Lake Ladoga: Valaam Monastery (islands), main. in the 14th century; Konevsky Monastery (island), main. 1393, Staraya Ladoga Monastery, founded. in the 15th century

We found an image, SOYMA - a ship designed for sailing in the turbulent waters of the White Sea, Onega and Ladoga lakes; V. Dahl: “Whoever has not been to the sea has not prayed to God enough.” The term must contain the characteristic - a boat for sailing in stormy seas. It is advisable to consider the term “soima” in connection with biblical images and vocabulary; the consciousness and thinking of Russian people of the Middle Ages was religious.

4) Hebrew terminology and biblical image

A) Terminology

Let's bring the term into a form close to Hebrew grammar and highlight the roots SOYMA = SO + YMA, we instantly have rational (reasonable) words-concepts of Hebrew - SOE stormy, storm + YAM sea, lake.

* SOYMA = SO+YMA = Hebrew. SAA storm, gale wind, whirlwind; forms SOA, SOE stormy + YAM, YAMA sea, lake; those. boat is a vessel designed to sail in rough seas.

Source

* See Strong Hebrew 5584, SAA gust of wind, stormy wind, stormy

* See Hebrew and Chaldean Etymological Dictionary of the Books of the Old Testament, Vilna, 1878.
SAA whirlwind; http://www.greeklatin.narod.ru/hebdict/img/_332.htm

B) Biblical image

Westminster Leningrad Codex, the most complete text of the Old Testament, dated 1008, written in Hebrew in Cairo, found in Crimea (c. 1838); the verses in the Russian Synodal translation do not correspond to the Hebrew text of the Code.

* Psalm 55:9: “I would hasten to hide from the wind (SOA), from the storm.”

* In Israel, in the south of the country, east of Beersheba, there is a wadi, a temporary stream formed during the rainy season, which is called Nahal Soa (stormy stream), Nachal So'a; see https://cs.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nachal_So

Thus, the materials of the researchers and biblical terminology allow us to conclude that the ancient Russian shipbuilding term SO + YMA is composed of two biblical words-concepts - storm + sea, lake; denotes a vessel capable of withstanding stormy sailing conditions on the sea and lakes.

The origin of the name “soima” itself is very interesting. Most likely, this is a derivative of the Finnish word “suomi” (literally: land of Sum). This was the name of a tribe that lived on the territory of modern Finland, and subsequently this word gave its name to the entire country. It is likely that the Ladoga soyma is a type of ancient Finnish vessel, mastered over the years by the Karelians and later by the Novgorodians. I wonder what maritime historians from Finland could add about this?

Until the very middle of the 19th century, Lake Ladoga, located very close to the capital, remained, however, little known. The absence of its maps and descriptions did not have the best effect on shipping; Even in a small wave, the captains preferred to go through bypass channels, which significantly lengthened the journey. Not a single insurance company in Russia has undertaken to insure ships sailing with cargo on open Ladoga.

Only in 1858 did the government equip an expedition led by Colonel Andreev to study the lake. The researcher’s task also included a detailed inspection of local types of boats. Describing them, Andreev noted the extraordinary seaworthiness of a two-masted boat - the Ladoga soyma. At the same time, he came to the conclusion that now nothing is known about the design of the ships that sailed on Ladoga during the times of Veliky Novgorod... But the matter took an unexpected turn.

While visiting the Ladoga monasteries on duty, the colonel noticed that the icons of the local associates depicted ships quite similar to the Ladoga soimas of the present time. “Based on this similarity,” wrote Andreev, “and taking into account that the Ladoga soymas have retained some primitive character to this day, we can conclude that the ships of the Novgorodians were almost the same as the current soymas.”

Andreev compiled their description; The soyams were made in typesetting, had patterned frames, outwardly inclined stems and a small keel. The frames were attached both to the keel and to the planking with wooden dowels; The sheathing boards were laid edge to edge and stitched together with juniper roots. To tack and reduce drift, a false keel was added to the keel. The mast of the soym consisted of two masts. The foremast was placed at the very stem, and the mainmast was placed in the middle. Both masts were low and had one wide sprint sail. The mast, since it was not high, was held securely without shrouds. All these ships did not have constant dimensions and were built in the size that was convenient for the owner.

The purpose of the soyma was different. They used them to catch fish, transport large luggage, and deliver pilgrims to Valaam (and even Solovki). According to Russian sources, large soyms traveled long distances and made voyages to Aborforst and Stockholm for trading purposes. Judging by the descriptions of eyewitnesses, the Ladoga soymas had a reliable, strong construction, were easy to oar and were not afraid of headwinds.

Having familiarized ourselves with these materials, my friend Andrei Boev and I were inspired by the idea of ​​​​building such a boat and sailing around Ladoga on it. But we did not have the main thing - drawings and a craftsman who would undertake to recreate the ancient soyma. Then we went to the most remote corners of Ladoga, where we hoped to find people familiar with similar boats. Konevei Island, Zalaam, Sortavala... Here we met mainly boats and homemade yachts. Sometimes we came across ordinary wooden boats that did not in any way resemble the description of the soyma. Ladoga fishermen, learning what we were looking for, were surprised: “A two-masted boat? Forget it. No one has been sailing here for a long time.”

At the end of summer, Andrei and I reached the remote village of Storozhno, located on southeast coast Ladoga. A real fishing village. There are nets hanging all around. Some houses have portholes instead of windows...

Are you interested in boats? - one of the residents asked us, seeing that we were looking at the overturned boat.

Soymami,” she answered.

Five minutes later we were sitting with our new friend, and he was drawing us exactly what we had been looking for for so long. The graceful lines of the body emerged from under his roughened hand. His drawing of the sailing rig of a two-masted boat exactly coincided with what Andreev wrote about: the same arrangement of masts, the same sprint rig...

“I went to soims when I was a boy,” the old man said. - These were the most reliable ships on the entire lake. Rest assured! Which boat can withstand a force seven storm on Ladoga? Only soyma! It used to be that bad weather would find you in the lake, the waves were raging all around, but not a drop fell into the soyma... These were the boats... Only here you won’t find the soyma, and, probably, they are no longer available anywhere.

In October 1994, when I was already thinking of postponing our search until next summer, I was informed that a boat master, Alexander Kalyagin, lived in the southern Ladoga region on the Syas River. We immediately went to see him, but didn’t find him - the owner was hunting. To pass the time, we walked along the shore and came across a wooden one. And the boat, like the soyma, was made “covered up” and with very good contours. The design of this boat, adapted for a motor, was clearly an echo of that distant era when people sat on the shore for weeks waiting for a fair wind.

Alexander Stepanovich returned and announced to us. that he is ready to take on any ship. but he needs a drawing. “And don’t forget - two thousand copper nails,” he added.

One way or another, the idea of ​​sewing a boat in the traditional way - with juniper roots - had to be abandoned. This is too labor-intensive, and our master never sewed a boat this way... Judging by the materials of the excavations, in Novgorod in the 10th-11th centuries large quantities tetrahedral iron nails were made, but they were rarely used in shipbuilding: this was explained by this. that in salt water the nails quickly rusted and destroyed the casing. On the contrary, the roots, swelling, made the body waterproof. Our copper nails were a good substitute for juniper roots, and at the same time we were not too far from history: the technique of using copper rivets was widely developed in medieval Ireland, and the Vikings used steel rivets to fasten their ships.

Already closely engaged in the search for materials, I realized that the construction of a large sailing boat requires considerable funds, and the two of us are unlikely to be able to complete this project. I think that the idea with soyma would have remained on paper if during this difficult time we had not been supported by a surgeon at one of the St. Petersburg hospitals, Viktor Donskoye.

Six months later I returned to Kalyazin with 40 kilograms of copper nails and a drawing. It was carried out by leading experts Naval Museum L. Larionov and G. Atavin and was a reconstruction of an 11-meter six-oar soyma.

Our cut, Ladoga,” Alexander Stepanovich said busily, looking at the drawing.

Now all that remains is to order 13-meter spruce boards to assemble the boat from solid material. Ladoga craftsmen tried not to make joints on the belts: such cases are weaker in design and can leak faster. In search of suitable boards, we visited several forestry enterprises and only in one did we find a sawmill that could handle 11-meter trunks. This determined the length of our future soyma - 9.45 m (with a width of 3.15 m).

Finally, in June 1996, the long-awaited moment of laying the soyma arrived. Its designer, the famous ship modeler Gennady Atavin, opened champagne and “blessed” the axed keel.

The master built the boat almost alone, combining this work with haymaking and caring for horses. Sometimes his son Vanya helped, and we tried to come here every weekend.

When the keel was ready, we harnessed the horses and went into the forest to get the stem. What was needed was a root with a sharp bend, and, moreover, a certain thickness, without cracks. In two days I had to look through many trees before I found suitable option. As soon as both stems took their places, Kalyazin placed two powerful patterns at the bow and stern and began to attract the cladding boards to them, fastening them together with rivets. This was the most crucial stage: “as you lay the first boards, so will the rest,” the master often said.

When Andrey and I started riveting the casing, it turned out that it was not so simple. Soft annealed nails bent under the blows of the hammer, stubbornly refusing to enter the tree. The skill came gradually, along with the confidence that we could do it.

By September, half of the building was already ready. The graceful lines of the replica of the ancient ship caught the eye of everyone who came to our small shipyard. In the fall the pace of work increased. We have prepared masts, sprints and oars. Alexander Stepanovich finished the sheathing and began cutting out the frames. I rarely looked at the drawings. If he noticed that I was “testing the strength” of any part of the soyma, he would say: “Don’t doubt it, the boat will be glorious, the first storm is mine!”

Meanwhile, 1997 arrived. And we decided that. If the soyma passes the test of Ladoga, we will go along the path of the Great Embassy of Peter I - to Holland and England. After all, boats of this type Western Europe I haven't seen it yet. To prepare the boat for such a long voyage, it was necessary to reconsider some features of its design. This work was undertaken by yacht captain Vladimir Miloslavsky. On his advice, we increased the height of the side - added one board at a time, and determined a place for the cabin. For safety, it was decided to limit the sail area. In the end, we settled on a mainsail with an area of ​​about 14 m2 and a foresail with an area of ​​8 m2. In stormy weather, the open part of the soyma is covered with an awning. The boat is equipped with a ten-person life raft, flares and a ship's VHF radio.

The launch of the soyma and testing took place in June, then the first trip to the holy places of Lake Ladoga took place with a visit to the Valaam and Konevetsky monasteries.

Soima received its name in honor of the founder of the Konevetsky monastery - St. Arseny, and was consecrated there at the monastery pier.

In the summer of 1998, the St. Arseny team plans to make the transition to English city Portsmouth, where we were invited by representatives of the Royal National Museum.

For a successful forty-day voyage, $2,500 is required.

We hope for the help of those. who is interested in what we do. We will raise our flag at the very edge of Europe!

Notes

1. The first who believed in us was the Planet company, which provided life-saving equipment free of charge.

Meat cannot be transported. However, we took a risk and purchased our products entirely in Russia. We decided that in case of inspection, we would simply throw out the canned food. When crossing the border, no one inspected the cars and we passed successfully.

2. Where can I pitch a tent, can I make fires, etc.?
In Finland, there is a law on equal access to land, according to which you can move freely even on private territory, and you can also camp for no more than 2 days. Of course, all this can be done provided it does not cause harm. environment. So the tent can actually be placed anywhere. With bonfires the issue is more complicated. They can only be bred in pre-prepared places or, roughly speaking, in a barbecue. You can read more in the official source.

There is a whole network of free equipped parking lots on Lake Saimaa. Two state-owned companies serve them. Unfortunately, the link above is entirely in Finnish and is not user-friendly. Therefore, I transferred the parking lots on our route to the map in Yandex. In the end, I planned the route so that as many of our camps as possible would fall on this equipped parking lot.

Parking lots are divided into 3 categories according to the level of equipment: 3, 4, 5 stars.

Three-star moorings must have a berth for yachts and boats, a toilet, a woodshed with a supply of firewood, an axe, a saw (with spare blades in the package!!!), a fire pit equipped with benches and a movable grate with hooks. Although these anchorages are primarily intended for boaters, we always found a convenient place to dock a kayak.

Four-star sites also have a gazebo with a brazier and sometimes a sauna. Typically, such parking lots are more spacious and allow you to stop. more people.

The only 5-star parking lot we visited had a small museum-apartment of some priest who lived there a hundred years ago. Unfortunately, only one room was opened in the priest's house, in which the interior of that time was recreated. There was no electricity. The only benefit that could be gained was perhaps shelter from the rain. Otherwise, the parking lot was more convenient for yachtsmen. There were two piers there.

I'll tell you more about parking later.

3. Are there GIMS in Finland and what is needed in order to travel by kayak?
According to the Finns, you don’t need any documents to travel by kayak (even under sail), unlike in our fatherland. Documents are required for yachts and boats. Signs of the water situation that are found on Saimaa.

4. Should kayaks, etc., be declared at the Russian border or not?
Nothing was declared anywhere, no one inspected the car even at the Russian border. They simply asked about what we were carrying and where we had been. According to customs regulations Russia, you can import duty-free goods for personal use worth up to 1,500 euros.

5. Where can I get cards?
We use a Garmin Legend HCx GPS navigator. You can take maps of Finland for this device. I printed the paper maps from here.

In order to avoid getting caught in a five-hour queue, as happened with Alexander, it was decided to leave on Friday evening. I monitored the situation at the border using webcams. Our border can be seen on Megafon cameras, and on the Finnish side information is provided by the Finnish Ministry of Transport. Link . On the same site you can see queues and recent statistics.

So we left at 22 and 3 hours later we were at the border. We decided to enter Finland through Brusnichnoe, since our destination is the village Joutseno. The last decent gas station :) (Lukoil) is located 10 km from the border. Considering gasoline prices in Europe, it's worth filling the tank full. There is a queue of 5-6 cars at the Russian border. The inspection was formal - they opened the trunk and immediately closed it. We passed the Russian checkpoint in 15-20 minutes. The Finns didn’t watch anything at all. There was zero queue.

We were at the hotel around 2 am. The hotel is called "Gasthaus Joutseno". The room was booked in advance. All it took was just a call. The hostess speaks Russian. A room for three cost about 90 euros per night with breakfast.

Since we initially planned to go early on Saturday morning and get on the water by 16-17, now we have free time. We decided to take a walk around Lappeenranta.

We decided to start from the same yacht club where Alexander was leaving. Before the trip, I downloaded the new version of Nokia Ovi Maps and was absolutely sure that in my own country this program would not let us down. But that was not the case :). The navigator led us to a dead end, from where we took the first street we came across to an unknown clearing on the banks of the Lake Saimaa, surrounded by private houses. We were allowed to gather there and even leave the car for 2 weeks. I won’t indicate this place; it’s better to go to the yacht club, where there is parking, etc.

At 15:00 we started assembling the boats. We left at 16:45. After 3 hours we were at the state parking lot on the island. Listinki. It was a 4-star parking lot. The picture was amazing Russian tourist. I counted 16 large boats and yachts, as well as several more motor boats, off the beach of this parking lot. The first thought was - it must be some kind of corporate event :). It turns out no, that’s the way it is. These parking lots are for everyone and you can safely stop at any of them even if there is already a crowd of people there. I would also like to note the amazing behavior of the Finns - no music for you, no drunken screams for you. Everyone is sitting decorously on the decks of their yachts and boats, a couple of people are swimming. Silence, order.

There were still free places for tents in the parking lot, however, we did not want to stand here and found a wild site on the western shore of the island Hirsiharju against. Parking coordinates (W 61°12"39.56"N, D 28°19"37.72"E). It is located between two private plots on a pebble beach. There are several fire pits here, which means you won’t have to break the law. We got up at 20:15. The photo below shows the beach near our camp. The photo was taken two days later, when we were already leaving the parking lot.


Total time 3:29
Driving time 2:49
Average speed 5.2 km/h
Maximum speed 8.4 km/h
Odometer 14.67 km.
Pace. air 29 degrees
Pace. water 21 degrees.

We decided to take a day off to get things in order. sailing equipment and try out the new jib and outriggers.

The rise was late at 9:50. Hot, sunny. Air 28 degrees, water 24. After breakfast I started adjusting the sailing rig.

There is very active traffic in Saimaa, boats, a barge with timber, and ships pass by. We started reading Thor Heyerdahl's book "Journey to Kon-Tiki". After 15:00 the weather deteriorated. There was even a thunderstorm nearby, but the rain spared us.

At about 18 o'clock, after waiting out the thunderstorm, we finally shook ourselves out and went sailing with a new jib. We decided to drive to the next one Ilkonsaaret island, inspect the state parking (4*) there and at the same time throwing out the trash. As soon as we moved away from the shore, the wind blew up. I had to urgently drop the jib. The rudder worked very poorly as the boat was riding on the waves.

The parking turned out to be excellent. By this time she was already completely free. There was a toilet, a fire pit, a gazebo with a brazier, garbage cans, a woodshed with a supply of firewood, a saw, an ax, and a pier for yachts and boats. There was even a breakwater built to protect the bay from waves.

Having quickly examined the parking lot, we began to prepare for the return throw - we removed the shrouds and pumped up the outriggers. The whole journey there and back took 40 minutes. The maximum speed was 10.8 km/h. Wind NE 9-10 m/s. There are whitefish in open water far from the shore.


After returning, I took a walk along the shore. Most people left Listinka Island. Our island was cut down in the center. Only a narrow 50-meter strip of forest along the shore was left. Apparently in order not to spoil the view.

In the evening the temperature dropped to 18 degrees.

We got up at 8:00. Cold +13, cloudy. The entire sky to the horizon is covered with clouds. The wind, as promised, is very convenient for sailing (backstay).

We left at 11:50. It warmed up a little to 19. Wind NE 5-6 m/s. They were able to sail only 1 km - the tiller was broken. We threw the mainsail into the weathervane position and rowed another 1 km to the nearest Ilkonsaret Islands, where the mast and sail were removed.

And so, feeling annoyed at Triton, they rowed under such a gorgeous wind. The problem was that Triton produces a steering wheel with plastic joints where the tiller attaches to the steering wheel. At this point, the hinge also experiences load in the transverse vertical plane and in this case can be easily broken. This is the second time such a breakdown has happened to me. Last time we were lucky, the tiller broke on the last day of the hike and we were even able to hobble to the finish line. Now this happened at the first serious transition. Later in the evening we repaired it by connecting the parts with a wire loop.

We walked quite quickly, 6-8 km/h. After 3 hours we stopped at m. Rastinniemi island of Kyulaniemi (Rastinniemi). There is another 3* state parking lot located there. The Cape has excellent pebble beaches, upstairs good parking. True, this place is very well ventilated and we found it not comfortable. But there is space on three sides. A distinctive feature of the site is the artistic goats for sawing logs - they are made in the shape of horses. I don’t remember the woodshed here, but there is a gazebo with a fireplace, a mandatory toilet and trash cans.


We rested, had a snack and moved on. Another hour later we reached our goal - a four-star parking lot on Hietasari Island. The parking coordinates are latitude 61°19"33.73"N, longitude 28° 6"13.58"E. The parking lot is great. It is located in a narrow part of the island and thus has access to the opposite shores of the island, where there are excellent beaches. In the parking lot there is an excellent sauna with access to the water, a gazebo with a fireplace, a fire pit with benches, a woodshed, a pier, and two toilets. But this parking lot is popular and crowded. At the pier I counted 9 boats and yachts, as well as several motor boats. Information stand in the parking lot.


We stood on the left, near the fire pit (blue tent). It is very windy in this place. After dinner we caught a cold and went to the sauna to save ourselves from a cold.

Total travel time 5:12
Time in motion 3:47
Average speed 5.3 km/h
Maximum speed 9 km/h
Odometer 19.9 km/h.

A slight breeze of 3-4 m/s is blowing, again from the northeast. We got up at 8:30. We decided to move our things and boats to the opposite shore in order to save on going around the island with oars against the wind. The bridge between the beaches is very short - 50 meters. But you can go sailing right away.

The release was a little delayed. I was assembling the sailing equipment, Svetka was repairing the bag, Ruslan was once again gluing his kayak. By the end of the campaign, he had no equal in this activity :). We left at 13:00. Wind backstay. We are sailing at 5-6 km/h. They even tried to take Ruslan in tow. The speed, of course, drops to 3-4 km/h and it becomes more difficult to control, but you can go.

To Janisvirta Strait arrived just fine. Turning into the strait, we changed the course by 90 degrees. The wind also blew differently in the strait and as a result we found ourselves facing against the wind. We tried to tack, but in narrow places it became simply unbearable, and we began to freeze. As a result, they decided to take off the sails at the northern tip of the island of Haapasaari and continue rowing. We had 8 km to go. Svetka got sick, it got worse. They even began to discuss the question of whether to leave the route. The weather remained bad.

We got up as planned at the 3* SOUKANNIEMI parking lot at 19:00. The parking coordinates are latitude 61°25"47.16"N, longitude 28°2"35.04"E. The parking lot has a standard set of amenities for this category: a woodshed with a saw, an ax and a supply of firewood, a toilet, a fire pit with benches. There are no trash cans here. There is a wonderful forest in the parking lot. Which day we celebrate that there are almost no mosquitoes. Marvelous.


Statistics:
Travel time 6:05
Driving time 5:25
Odometer 23 km
Max speed 7.7 km/h
Average speed 4.2 km/h.
The water temperature before leaving at 12:30 was 21 degrees, at 22 hours the next. parking - 17 degrees.

We got up at 9:30. It was decided to take a day off and treat Svetka.

The wind is still NE 3-4 m/s, it has become warmer 25 degrees, water temperature 20. Statement about the prevailing South-In the winds not yet confirmed.

Ruslan continues to glue the boat, we read Heyerdahl, Svetka is being treated and is feeling better. She decided to continue the hike.

Today the first phone battery died, it lasted for 4 days. One bottle of 0.5 liters of gasoline is enough for 4-5 eaters.

We got up at 8. We left at 12. The weather was just super. Wind 3-4 m/s NE.

I swapped places with Ruslan and went to Legore. This is also a Triton product. At first she seemed very agile, but soon I began to get tired. It is very uncomfortable to sit, since the legs rest against the body and the feet have to be folded. There is little space for cargo. You can only put a small bag in the stern; the rest of your gear has to be attached to the back from above, so there is no room at all for photographic equipment, for example. As a result, in terms of speed it turns out to be no faster than Ilmen.

The wind now turns out to be headwind, so we row. We arrived in Pumala after 4 hours. We made only one half-hour stop along the way. Another loss - Ruslan forgot his binoculars in the parking lot.

Pumala is a small and clean town. The main shops, etc. are concentrated near the port. Many strange vessels were observed in the port. For example, a plane circling above us as we approached Pumale suddenly decided to land on the water and taxied to the pier. It was a seaplane from the Second World War. Another interesting specimen was a two-masted schooner with two huge centerboards on the sides.


We went to the pharmacy. Antibiotics and antiseptics are not sold without a prescription. We were only able to buy cranberry tablets. We had lunch with pizza (9.5 euros) and local beer (4.5 euros) opposite the church on the main street. In the port there is a large grocery store "Sale" like "Perekrestok", where you can inexpensively replenish supplies, including canned food. We bought bread, fruits, vegetables and some Finnish folk pies there. The boats were left unattended, of course, valuables, documents and money were taken. The situation in Finland is relaxing - we lose our vigilance, but it’s so nice.

In Pumala you must definitely climb them famous bridge. By the way, the Finns boast about this bridge in various guidebooks, like a great attraction. From the bridge there are quite nice views of the town and the skerries around it. You can take the elevator for free directly from the port embankment.


After Pumala, state parking lots do not appear soon, so we expected to find a place somewhere in the area Kuivinsaari Islands. However, it turned out to be not easy. We walked along the right (in the direction of travel) bank and could not find a place to camp. The banks were either unsuitable for parking or inhabited. As a result, we were forced to walk 7 km more than we expected, and got up late in the evening on an unnamed island with a lighthouse at the northern tip Vuorisaari Islands. The parking coordinates are latitude 61°34"20.13"N, longitude 28°15"18.17"E.

It seemed that all the mosquitoes in Finland had gathered on this small island. We also found the water to be a little bitter. We didn’t cook dinner; we ate canned food.

Statistics
Travel time 6:30
Driving time 5:20
Max. speed 7.3 km/h
Average speed 4.4. km/h
Odometer 23.73 km
The air temperature in Pumala during the day was 32 degrees, at midnight in the parking lot it was 22 degrees.

We got up at 7 am, as it became very hot in the tent. She stood in the full sun and without an awning. We left at 10:30.

A very hot day, the thermometer showed 31.5 degrees. Wind east, 2-3 m/s. Only once the wind was tailwind all day, but that day the rudder fell off! What a shame! The walk today is a little easier than the day before due to the breeze and clouds that sometimes create shade.

On the way we crossed ferry crossing, missed a huge barge (they carry timber here), admired the numerous sailboats.

3 hours later they arrived at the state office. 3* parking at island of Runasari. Initially I planned a day here. We had already spent this day before Pumala, and on the previous day we had walked more, so now it was too early to get up for the night. The parking lot turned out to be unsuitable for spending the night in a tent. There is no normal platform here at all. The parking lot is very compact, with a minimal set of amenities (fire pit, woodshed and toilet). There wasn't even a trash can here.


We stopped here for lunch. Finnish yachtsmen from Lappenraanta stopped here for lunch with us. They suggested a couple of parking lots, one of which we later used, and warned about worsening weather on July 10th.

It was in this clearing that we received the following lines from our friend Kirill:

My mainsail is flying and my jib is flying!
Rusik certainly won’t keep up!

Our response was as follows:

But the wind is headwind, damn it!
And Rusik is ahead again!

Kirill responds to this:

But Svetka will get the oar right now
And Rusik will be half a day behind!

After waiting out the heat, taking a swim, we set off further at 19:00. On the way we witnessed a curious event. It turns out that in these parts, right on our route, a rowing championship is held once a year. Rowers start from town of Sulkava. Thousands of people take part in these competitions (for example, last year there were about 8 thousand)! Since last year, the championship has been considered international.



About 21 stopped for the night at a 3* state parking lot Petrosaari island. The parking coordinates are latitude 61°37"16.07"N, longitude 28°32"47.01"E. There were already a couple of yachts and a boat there. But, as usual, the Finns lived on board and the shore was entirely at our disposal. I liked the parking lot less than the others. Fire pit without benches. Instead of them there are three logs. There is no woodcutter; instead, a tree has simply been felled. A little trashy. There was a toilet and trash can. There is plenty of space for a tent. Dinner was not prepared again.

Statistics
Travel time 5:23
Time in motion 4:11
Average speed 4.4 km/h
Maximum speed 7.8 km/h
We walked 18.26 km.

We woke up at 8:15, but couldn’t get up right away. Only after reading the next chapter of Thor Heyerdahl did we manage to crawl out of the tent. It’s a great day and no worries about the promised deterioration of the weather, which various yachtsmen warned us about several times. Mom sent an SMS saying that this worst deterioration had been postponed to July 12th. Well, let's see. And today turned out to be a beautiful day. The air temperature is 30 degrees. East wind 2-3 m/sec.

Our course is to the north, so we decided to set sail. We left at 12:15. We approached the passage into the strait quite briskly, but were unable to enter it. At the entrance to the strait the wind was turned off. After hanging out for a while, we moored to the shore and took off the sail. They looked with envy at the yachts passing by. They don’t need to remove the sails; they turn on the engine and go.

Just behind the lighthouse on Oulunsaari island open water began and the breeze appeared again. New tossing began about whether to set the sail again. After 5 km I couldn’t stand it and we moored again and set the sail. This time they installed only the mainsail and without outriggers. We went well. The wind was backstay. The average speed was 4.5 km/h. Sometimes on individual gusts we accelerated to 8 km/h.

There is a lot of movement on the water. Another barge overtook us. Many yachts are moving in different directions. For the third time, the Saima Travel steamer caught up with us. This vessel sails regularly from Lappenraanta to Savonlinna and back. Here is information about him.


Got to Venaransalmi Strait, which is between the islands of Savionsaari and Ruokoniemi. A car ferry crosses the strait. The wind blows in different directions and therefore, helping ourselves with oars, we cross the strait.


After the strait we head east. The wind is now close-hauled and closer to left. It’s difficult to go, the sail can barely pull. The speed is 2-3 km/h, but you still need to walk quite a bit. I suggest removing the sail, but Svetka doesn’t want to. As a result, I tend the sail, and my wife rows :).

By 18:40 we reached our Selkasaari islet. The anchorage here was suggested to us by yachtsmen a day ago. Coordinates: latitude 61°46"23.78"N, longitude 28°33"44.83"E. This parking lot is not public and therefore probably not maintained by anyone, so it is a bit trashy. It is a small rocky area equipped with a log canopy. There are also two fire pits. The shed has a wide entrance and a plank floor. The entrance is closed with a canopy. WITH reverse side A small supply of firewood was found in the shed. Nice place There is no place for a tent here and so we stuck it right into this canopy.


At night I went out for a walk very successfully :) I saw the amazing state of nature. How beautiful are the white nights!



Another feature of this site was the extremely active ants and the abundance of spiders on the trees. If I am on friendly terms with the first ones, then I actively did not like the second inhabitants :).

After 20 o'clock the wind changed its direction to the south at 1-2 m/s. The water was 24 degrees at that time. Sochi you could say!

Statistics
Travel time 6:13
Driving time 5:25
Average speed 3.9 km/h
Maximum speed 8.3 km/h
21.32 km covered.

We got up at 9. The night was stuffy, there was no breeze. The morning is hot. At 12 o'clock the thermometer showed 30 degrees. We left at 13:15. Having passed O. Karistansaari An east wind of 4-5 m/s began to blow. But for us it is oncoming, so we continue rowing. By the way, this area is noticeably more wild and has more rocky islands. I like it here much better. Between O. Kokonsaari and Kesamonsaari Another ferry is operating.

At 16:30 we stopped at the 5-star Kesamonsari parking lot. In the description we read that the house of some priest who lived a hundred years ago has been preserved here. In the photo, the house was of impressive size and we assumed that this property should not be lost and there was either a hotel or a museum there. However, the building turned out to be closed, except for one room on the ground floor. The atmosphere there was truly recreated from a hundred years ago. On the table you can find a pile of guidebooks and some magazines. There is no electricity. In short, a complete bummer. You can't even charge your phone. So much for 5 stars! But there is a wonderful sauna and a spacious gazebo with a fireplace. Of course there is a toilet and trash cans. This parking lot should be more convenient for yachtsmen; there are two berths. There are a couple of places for a tent. One is right behind the gazebo, the other is 30 meters behind it, in the reeds with a separate bank. There was already a Swiss standing there on a Vuoksa kayak, bought in Germany (globalization, however) and so we stood right next to the gazebo. There is also a well on the site, but it seems that the last time it was used by the same priest was a hundred years ago.




There were 7 yachts and a boat at the pier. We met the Finns from the boat and went to the sauna with them. And then we had tea with Roger, a Swiss on a Russian kayak, until one in the morning.

The parking lot looks very crowded. There is nowhere to go for a walk. People and dogs bathe together. In short, somehow not 5 stars :) Initially, we planned a day here, but abandoned this idea and decided to move on to wilder sites.

Statistics
Travel time 3:11
Time in motion 2:29
Speed ​​max. 9.6 km/h
Average speed 4.6 km/h
Odometer 12.34 km.

The rise happened today at 8 o'clock. There was thunder at breakfast. Wind SW and a thunderstorm is coming towards us. But we were lucky again, it only rained a little, and a thunderstorm passed somewhere nearby. It's sunny and hot again (29 degrees). We left at 12:50.

Wind is weak 2-3 m/s. Sometimes it’s completely calm between the islands, so we go by oars. We huddle closer to the banks to get into the shade. The areas continue to be rocky and sparsely populated. This area is located on the territory of some security zone. Very beautiful.

We stopped to inspect the caves formed as a result of the collapse of rocks on the island of Riuttanen. I was not able to get to the main faults, but overall the place is interesting. Coordinates of the caves: latitude 61°43"43.72"N, longitude 28°55"44.99"E.

According to the above site, opposite the caves on the island of Pitkasaari, there should have been another state site, but it was not there.

We stopped at a parking lot on the island of Kongonsaari, Cape Paskyniemi. Parking coordinates: latitude 61°42"50.47"N, longitude 28°58"23.43"E. Literally 500 meters away there is another parking lot. Both sites are connected by a path.

Our parking lot is located on a long sandy beach and we really liked it. The parking lot is divided into two areas, each with a fire pit with benches. Between the areas there is a toilet, a woodshed with a large supply of firewood and a standard set of tools. The adjacent parking lot has the same set of amenities. Instead of a trash bin, the name for food waste is used. It is proposed to remove the rest of the garbage yourself.

The photo below shows the adjacent parking lot.

There is a lot of forest around the parking lot. Very similar to the area around Orekhovo after the hurricane in August 2010. Later it turned out that the same hurricane also affected Finland. In Savonlina, the roof of the fortress even turned down.

Statistics
Travel time 4:40
Driving time 3:35
Maximum speed 6.8 km/h
Average speed 4.4 km/h (Svetka was sleeping and I rowed alone)
Odometer 15.92 km.

We got up late, after 10. We had breakfast at noon :). The whole sky is overcast. Fresh wind 4-6 m/s, SE. Before we had time to finish our tea, it began to rain. This is the first rain in 11 days of hiking. We climbed into the tent and read Steve Calahan's "Adrift." It rained until 16. An hour later it began to rain again. But we have already pulled up the tent and are preparing lunch. The photo below is called "Oh! It's getting warm."

It rained for about 20 hours. The wind changed to the west at 2-3 m/s.

Cloudy. Sometimes the sun appears through the breaks in the clouds. West wind 5-6 m/s. Gusts up to 7-8 m/s. The air temperature is 21 degrees. We got up at the alarm clock at 8. We left at 12. We couldn’t lose such a wind and we went under full sail.

The boat is sailing very well. They were even able to take Ruslan in tow. The wind is picking up. Gusts reach 11-12 m/s. Whitecaps appeared on the water, but the wave was small. Ideal conditions for sailing. In the straits, the wind changes its direction and travels from south-west to north-west. Any of these directions will make us quite tired.

We walk at a speed of 8-9 km/h, sometimes accelerating to 10 km/h. We quickly go through our modest daily quota.

We stop on the island of Heikkasaari, which was suggested to us by the Finns on the boat. Parking coordinates: latitude 61°38"18.86"N, longitude 29°10"12.12"E.

The parking lot here is wild. There is a lot of space, enough for several camps. There were already fishermen on the island, an elderly Finn and a boy. The western shore is sandy, the remaining shores are pebbly. There are fire pits and enough firewood in the forest. We had lunch in a strong wind, but by 19:00 the wind died down completely.

Statistics
Travel time 2:30
Maximum speed 10.3 km/h
Average speed 6.2 km/h
Odometer 14.98 km.

We got up at 8:20. Wind NW, 3-5 m/s with gusts up to 6 m/s. Air temperature 19 degrees. Partly cloudy.

We left at 11. I don’t even know how we managed to leave so early. :) Let's go sailing. The wind is kind of unstable, it will blow and then stop. In those happy moments when the wind was blowing, we accelerated to 9 km/h. How great is this! The wind direction varies from N to NW. Our course is to the northeast. The jib helps a lot.

We reached the next parking lot without incident. This is a public parking lot, not designated on the above site. We learned about it from stands at other similar parking lots. Coordinates: latitude 61°44"29.50"N, longitude 29°19"25.04"E. The island is called Apelinsari. In terms of equipment, this is a standard three-ruble note: fire pit with benches, woodshed, toilet. We found several places for a fire. There is plenty of space for a tent. Yachts get near high rocky shore, we walked around a little and shook ourselves out on a sandy beach. This is the first official parking lot where we were alone!


Statistics
Travel time 3:07
Time in motion 2:54
Maximum speed 9.3 km/h
Average speed 5 km/h
Odometer 14.45 km.
By 6 p.m. the air temperature was 22 degrees.

We got up at 8. We left at 11:35. Cloudy, temperature 18. West wind 1-2 m/s.

We've reached settlement Punkaharju in 42 minutes, the distance was 3.9 km. Average speed 5.7 km/h.

We unloaded at the main pier, on the right side of which there was a boat ramp.



On the pier there is a shower, a toilet, a canopy, there were a lot of buckets lying around, so we even managed to wash the boats.

I catch the train at 13:02. The next one will be only in 3 hours. The railway platform is located right behind the pier. From the place where we landed, you need to walk to the left a few tens of meters, then climb the wooden stairs straight to the platform.



The train has a change at Parikkala. Tickets are purchased from the conductor in cases where there is no ticket office at the station. The fare cost 25.4 euros. At 14:30 I'm there at Joutseno village. Thus, the distance that we covered in two weeks, I covered in an hour and a half by train.

The railway platform in Joutseno is 2.5 km from the pier where we left the car. After 40 minutes, I picked up my car safe and sound and drove back. Returned around 17. We had a snack, loaded up and left for Savonlinna at 18:30.

The road to Savonlina is very beautiful place is a chain of islands connected by bridges and causeways. The Finns called it the "Imperial Road" in honor of the Russian emperors.

Savonlinna - very interesting city, Finnish Venice. About half of the city's territory is covered by lakes and rivers. There is even a drawbridge here!

At this time of year, Savonlinna hosts its annual opera festival. The stage will be organized right in the courtyard of the Olavinlinna fortress. Due to the festival, hotel prices go up. The cost of a double room reaches 180 euros per night. Therefore, we decide to stay overnight at the Vuohimaki campsite. Cafes are mostly closed after 20 o'clock and having dinner is also a problem. We have time to eat pizza at a pizzeria on the main street of Olavinkatu before closing. The pizzeria is located approximately between houses 27 and 33. Then we buy groceries at the supermarket on the same street (house number 20) and go to the campsite.

The campsite occupies a huge area on the shores of Lake Saimaa and offers completely different accommodation options. The easiest option is, of course, to put up a tent. It costs 14 euros per tent and 4 euros for each person in it. The total for three would be 36 euros. Many people come here by car. Special clearings are reserved for them. It is possible to rent a small house. Finally, studio rooms are offered in the administration building. We opted for the last option and rented a room for three for 80 euros. I actually had to pay an additional 7 euros for linen. A local cafe offers breakfast for 6 euros. On the campsite there are showers, toilets, a sauna, kitchens, barbecue areas, and laundries, which, however, do not have washing machines and must be washed by hand.

Olavinlinna Fortress is open to the public from 10 am to 6 pm. We walked around the fortress on a guided tour. It turns out that she passed 9 times from the Finns to the Russians and back. The last reconstruction was done under the leadership of Suvorov and since then there has been Suvorov’s courtyard and round windows on the towers under the roof.

Then we looked into the museum, located next to the fortress on the shore of the lake. Among the exhibits under open air The sailing steamer "Salama", which plied between Savonlinna and Vyborg, was available for visiting. One day it sank somewhere near Pumal and many years later it was finally raised and restored.

Savonlinna has extensive berths with many yachts.


In general, I really liked the town, you can come here just for the weekend.

We returned through Imatra and Svetogorsk. The Russian line was small and they crossed the border in about 30 minutes. The Finnish line was huge, but right after the border the Finnish cars got lost somewhere. Apparently their interests were satisfied at the nearest stall with vodka and cigarettes :)

I would like to point out one interesting psychological effect. When we entered Finland, Finnish roads did not make much of an impression. Well, just think, a little more signs and a little less cracks. But way back made a depressing impression. Russian roads seemed much worse after Finnish ones, although in the Leningrad region the roads will be better than in Russia as a whole.


Almanac “Solovetsky Sea”. No. 7. 2008

Andrey Epatko

Construction of the Ladoga soyma "St. Arseny"

It is difficult to find a boat in the North-West of Russia that would be so closely connected with the White Sea region as the Ladoga soyma. This strange snub-nosed boat, proudly carrying two masts, owes its birth to Ladoga and its indigenous inhabitants - the Finns. However, thanks to the glory of the Solovetsky Wonderworkers, the soyma has seen lead waters Lake Onega, and the salty wave of the White Sea. Her faded sails loomed near the Klimenets Monastery and the Kizhi Churchyard, in sight of the noisy Povenets and on the schismatic Vyga. But the soyma found rest only under the walls of the legendary White Sea monastery, founded by the monks Zosima and Savvaty. Pilgrims from Olonets, St. Petersburg, Pskov and Tikhvin, arriving on the soyma, crossed themselves on the high domes and, with an unsteady gait after the sea motion, stepped onto the holy Solovetsky land...

Our story will be about this amazing boat, which has always been a worthy “guest” on the White Sea.

They say that the ways of the Lord are mysterious. What a curious, exciting picture would appear to us from the pen of someone who could trace the fate of each of us...! Each of us who, in one way or another, is associated with the name of the Holy Blessed Prince Alexander Nevsky...

It leads us to each other, enriches us, complements us, and unites us with a common goal. And all this allows us, the employees of a new legal entity - the private cultural institution “Cultural Center SAMOLVA” to create a new museum cultural space.

In September, Alexander Karsov, a graduate of the 46th Moscow school, who in his youth took part in boat trips with Alexander Potresov, a graduate of the VHPU named after. Stroganova, (faculty of industrial aesthetics), artist-designer. He offered his services in making a model of boats (ushkuy and Novgorod soyma), which were built in Rus' during the Battle of the Ice, and on which Alexander Nevsky’s soldiers could move across the expanses of water.

Ushkui- a sailing and rowing vessel - were used in Rus' in the 11th-15th centuries for rafting on rivers and for the sea. The name of the boat, according to one version, comes from the Oskuy River, the right tributary of the Volkhov near Novgorod, where the Novgorodians built boats they called “oskuy” or “ushkuy”. The length of the ear was 12-14 meters, the width was 2.5 meters. The board height is about 1 meter and the draft is up to 60 cm, with a capacity of up to 30 people. The boat was used both at sea (with an oblique sail and holds at both ends of the ship's hull) and on rivers (the ear had a straight sail and a completely open deck without holds). In both versions, a stern oar was used instead of a rudder.

If ushkui were used as a “combat” vessel, then one of the most common types of ships of ancient Novgorod, the soyma, can be classified as “civil ships”. The lightest boat of this type, up to 6 m long, was called a soyminka. The boats, which were up to 12 m long, had a deck and a tank for live fish. They were called live fish, or salt soyma.

Fast on the move under sail, light on oars, tacking well and capable of sailing steeply to the wind, soymas were used by bands of Novgorodians and for trips to White Sea behind the fish tooth. They crossed rapids rivers without the risk of breaking the keel (when swimming through the rapids, hitting the stones, the keel board of the boat springs). On the lakes, high stems ensured good penetration of the wave. Light soymas were easy to drag across watersheds.

These two models, we hope, will soon appear in the exhibition of the Museum of the History of the Battle “Battle on the Ice”, which will be opened in “ Cultural center SAMOLVA" in April 2017 on the 775th anniversary of the legendary battle.