The only Buddhist monastery in the Urals. Buddhist monastery in the Ural mountains. Exit to the foot of Mount Kachkanar

Story

Founding of the monastery

Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit, aka Mikhail Sannikov, became acquainted with Buddhism in the late 1980s in Afghanistan, where he, a career officer and special forces commander, saw mountain passes monuments to the Buddhist civilization that flourished there before the arrival of the Muslims. After the end of the Afghan War, Sannikov left the army, went to Buryatia, to the Ivolginsky datsan, becoming a student of Darma-Dodi Zhalsaraev.

On May 15, 1995, Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit began construction of a Buddhist monastery on Mount Kachkanar. His teacher showed him the place for it.

Over the course of 20 years, Shad Tchup Ling has become one of the largest centers for the study of Buddhism in Russia and simply a tourist attraction that attracts thousands of tourists.

Court for territory

Community members tried many times to legalize the buildings, but the rights to the land were claimed by the mining and processing plant, whose quarries are located nearby, and the forestry department.

On February 9, information appeared on the website of the Office of the Federal Bailiff Service for the Sverdlovsk Region about the upcoming demolition of a “Buddhist monastery” on Mount Kachkanar. The life’s work and the fruits of the incredible perseverance of Mikhail Sannikov and hundreds of people who helped him during these years may go to waste, and the “fascinating imagination Buddhist stupas among the Ural mountains" - to disappear.

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Excerpt characterizing Shad Tchup Ling

On the stage there were even boards in the middle, painted paintings depicting trees stood on the sides, and a canvas on boards was stretched behind. In the middle of the stage sat girls in red bodices and white skirts. One, very fat, in a white silk dress, sat separately on a low bench, to which green cardboard was glued to the back. They were all singing something. When they finished their song, the girl in white walked up to the prompter’s booth, and a man in tight-fitting silk trousers on thick legs, with a feather and a dagger, approached her and began to sing and spread his arms.
The man in tight trousers sang alone, then she sang. Then both fell silent, the music began to play, and the man began to finger the hand of the girl in a white dress, apparently again waiting for the beat to begin his part with her. They sang together, and everyone in the theater began to clap and shout, and the man and woman on stage, who were portraying lovers, began to bow, smiling and spreading their arms.

Eight kilometers from the city of Kachkanar, in the middle Sverdlovsk region, at an altitude of 885 meters, stands the Shad Tchup Ling Monastery. A Buddhist monastery in the Urals is already unusual in itself. But no less “attraction” than the monastery itself is its 54-year-old founder Mikhail Sannikov.

It took a long time for a man to discover Zen. A hereditary military man (his father and grandfather were intelligence officers), he graduated from the KGB school and went to Afghanistan in 1981. He rose to the rank of commander of a sabotage and reconnaissance group. His colleagues still remember his accuracy. The main task of their detachment was to destroy caravans with weapons that were going to the Mujahideen from Pakistan. Sannikov's sniper rifle never made a single mistake. And then there was a breakdown. Mikhail aimed his sight at the horse, loaded with weapons. Nothing new. He did this for many years. All you had to do was pull the trigger and shoot the horse in the head. But then Sannikov saw through his sight how the animal was crying. Tears flowed from the horse's eyes. And he couldn't shoot. For failing to carry out orders, Mikhail was demoted. And he was only happy about it. From one old Afghani, a military man who had done something wrong learned about Buddhism, about self-restraint, about achieving nirvana, and also about the fact that they themselves are the cause of people’s suffering. And, having returned to his homeland, he did not go home at all, but to Buryatia - to the largest domestic Buddhist center. After 7 years of practice, Sannikov received the name Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit. And then the mentors sent the former military man to build a new monastery.

Sannikov's followers claim that the place (the top of Mount Kachkanar) was seen by teachers during meditation. But there is a much more rational version: in the west of Russia there was already one buddhist temple- in St. Petersburg, in the east there are temples of Buddhist Buryatia, but in the middle, in the Urals, it is empty. This is how the idea of ​​building a monastery on one of the highest points of the Ural Mountains arose.

When Lama Dokshit first climbed to the top in 1995, there was nothing here. Only stones,” the novices say with a breath. “The first thing he did was build a hut here.” One! Periodically he went down to the city to earn money for food. Rumors about the lama quickly spread throughout the surrounding area. And soon he had assistants...

Now Shad Tchup Ling is no longer just a hut, but an entire residential complex. There is a bathhouse, a dining room, and even a library.

KP journalists went to the monastery at the end of December. We then collected information for the New Year's guide to the most interesting places Sverdlovsk region. Of course, there was also a place in it for a Buddhist monastery.

We then brought with us a pineapple and a bag of sweets.

It would be better if they brought plastic fittings,” the lama tsked while accepting the gifts. - We are now building an airship. It would be useful for our hull.

- And where will you fly on it?– we asked.

Yes, wherever we want! - Mikhail answered, sipping tea from a mug.

- Have you finished building the monastery yet?

We practically never started. Work for another 279 years. But next summer we will at least put up a statue of Buddha.

Now, apparently, these plans will not come true. Talk that the monastery stands illegally and needs to be demolished has been circulating in the Sverdlovsk region for several years now. But no one actually took it seriously. Even Sannikov himself. When we asked in December if he was afraid that his monastery would be demolished by excavators, Dokshit only smiled skeptically:

There is a crisis in the country now. Nobody cares about us.

But the business turned out to be too profitable to forget about it, even during a crisis.

« Before March 1, 2016, the demolition of the Buddhist monastery “Shad Tchup Ling” must take place in the city of Kachkanar, - stated in the resolution of the bailiffs of the Federal Bailiff Service of Russia in the Sverdlovsk region . – Mikhail S., who lives in this monastery, is obliged to release land plot from buildings that are intended for religious ceremonies. The reason for the eviction of Buddhists is the illegal occupation of territory that is federally owned; in addition, this land is located in the development of the Kachkanar iron ore deposit itself. The city court made this decision in favor of the Forestry Department in the summer of the year before last. Due to the fact that Mikhail S. repeatedly failed to comply with the requirements of executive documents, he was brought to administrative responsibility under Part 1 of Art. 17.15 Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation and Part 2 of Art. 17.15 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation (for repeated failure to comply with the requirements of enforcement documents of a non-property nature). Also, in relation to Mikhail S., a decision was made on a temporary restriction on travel outside the Russian Federation».

At the same time, the bailiffs clarify that no one is going to kick the monks out into the street.

An operational meeting was held at the Administration of the Kachkanar City District on the issues of Mikhail S.’s fulfillment of the requirements for moving the monastery to Mount Mokhnatka. Mikhail S. was present at the meeting, where he was again presented with a demand for execution of the court decision before March 1, 2016, as stated by the Federal Bailiff Service of Russia for the Sverdlovsk region.

The monastery, in turn, declares that it will not be able to move by the beginning of spring.

We believe that the decision to demolish it is illegal,” says novice Anna Kolosova. – Indeed, we had an agreement with the city authorities that the monastery would be moved to Mount Mokhnatka. To do this, the Evraz metallurgical plant had to develop a place on the mountain and an approach route to it. But these conditions were not met. We're ready to move. But only when all obligations are fulfilled. In the meantime, naturally, we will protect our monastery from demolition.

Photo gallery from the Buddhist monastery "Shad Tchup Ling"

Every morning we are born again. And what we do today will be of greatest importance.
Siddhartha Gautama
I continue the story about interesting people. Yes, the story will mainly be about the only mountain Buddhist monastery in Russia, but the monastery is the work of a specific person.
So, spring, Sverdlovsk region, Kachkanar, the mountain of the same name.

01.
I found information about the monastery by chance while preparing for a spring trip to the Urals. Sensible reports about the visit can be counted on one hand, mostly some articles about litigation with the Kachkanarsky GOK and rumors about imminent demolition. So I had to take my hands in my hands and go before it was too late.

02.
Mount Kachkanar stands next to the city of the same name, or rather, the city is located at the foot of the mountain. The mountain is so-so, far from Elbrus, only 887.6 m. This is the height we had to go to.

03.
The most difficult part of the entire climb was passing the GOK entrance. The mountain turned out to be on the territory of the enterprise. I asked the security guard if it was possible to go up the mountain, she replied that it was possible, but we had to get approval from the department, it was in the city, but they weren’t working today (Saturday), and it wasn’t a quick task. But since we came from afar, she simply had to tell us that their work is difficult, the territory is huge and it is simply impossible to keep track of everything. Here she sees it at the barrier, but over there, behind the bushes three meters away, she no longer sees it. They say there is a path there, and further along the road, the main thing is not to get under the BelAZ. After thanking the guard and loudly expressing our regret about the inaccessibility of the monastery due to bureaucratic delays, we went behind the bushes.

04.
Well, then we go up the mountain along an excellent road. Along the way, you can stop at a couple of observation platforms, and even climb onto lighting towers. The quarry is active, so there is something to look at and you need to look both ways.

05.
From the second lookout there is a straight line going uphill old road, we like it. As you climb, you literally cross several natural zones in just an hour. You should take your children on excursions here; it’s rare that changes in nature can be so clearly shown in such accessibility.

06.
And eventually you come out into a small clearing. If you go straight, you will get to the Camel rock and an alpine lake.

07.
The lake is so-so. It will probably be more fun in the summer, but in May there was still ice on it. Fishermen are still sitting on the luda of this thickness in the spring

08.
And to the right there begin simply fantastic (for the end of spring) deposits of snow, along which a chain of old tracks can be seen. Let's follow them. Step to the side and you fall almost waist-deep.

09.
There is a thick layer of snow underfoot, and streams gurgle under the snow. You can hear them perfectly and you don’t want to fall into them at all. A few hundred meters later, right in the forest, there is a large stack of boards and a sign in the style of “Traveler, throw away your things, leave your fatigue and help build the monastery.” We helped, yes.

10.
The last push along the kurumnik, we jump over the slippery stones and behold, the monastery. To be honest, there were fears of not being able to catch him there.

11.
The monastery is being built, from completely finished buildings, perhaps only the stupa of the Awakening. Through the gates, drums and information board we finally get inside.

12.
We are clearly welcome

13.
No, actually we are glad. A man came out hearing the dogs barking and led us inside to dry off after swimming in the snow and drink tea. “Drinking tea” is perhaps the most frequently used phrase at the top.

14.
This concept does not include tea drinking itself, although of course there will certainly be one, but rather conversations and gatherings. This is the eastern version, this is Asia.
“Where are you from? And then where can I see the photos? On LJ? Is he still alive?!”
Soon they had logbook shadtchupling

15.
Having warmed up, we go out to explore. This is a stunningly beautiful place! I love mountains, even small ones. There is something primal in them, revealing the subconscious in a person.

16.
A long time ago, the Mansi lived on these lands. No one lived on the mountain itself, but it was considered a place of power and was used to perform religious rituals.

17.
When the Russians came to these places, they became interested in the local deposits. According to rumors, Demidov himself wanted to buy the entire mountain from the Mansi, but something didn’t work out between them.

18.
Then platinum fever passed through these places, but quickly ended. The mining and processing plant was founded in the late 50s of the last century, at the same time the city of Kachkanar was founded on the southern slope of the mountain.

20.
The idea of ​​building a monastery came to its creator in 1995. The creator was Mikhail Vasilievich Sannikov, a very interesting person. He was born into a military family, and for several years he commanded a sabotage and reconnaissance group in Afghanistan.

21.
He was demobilized from the army due to disability with the rank of captain, worked as a nurse in a morgue, as a cook in the river fleet, and graduated from the Nizhny Tagil Art School as an external student.

22.
In the late 80s, at the age of 27, Mikhail decides to go to study at the Ivolginsky datsan. He entered and took the monastic name Tenzin Dokshit. I went to Mongolia and after finishing my studies I wanted to move there to live. But fate decreed otherwise.

23.
To be completely precise, his teacher Pema Jang ordered otherwise. The young Lama Dokshit was given the order to build a Buddhist datsan in the Urals. The logic is simple: in the east there are Buryat churches, in the west St. Petersburg Gunzechoiney, in the south datsans of Kalmykia, and in the middle it is empty. There are no Buddhist temples in the Urals. And in order to stand out completely, the temple must stand on the top of a mountain.

24.
We chose Kachkanar, a mountain on the border of Europe and Asia. As I already said, this place has long been known as a place of power. And the name of the monastery was given to Shad Tchup Ling - “place of practice and implementation” (or “Place of study and implementation”, as you prefer). Construction began on May 15, 1995, and during the first years Tenzin Dokshit built it alone.

25.
The first buildings were almost entirely wooden, and a fire that happened in 1998 destroyed everything that had been rebuilt. The Lama and his few disciples had to start all over again.

26.
After a walk along the mountain we drink tea again.

27.
Mikhail is an excellent conversationalist with a unique sense of humor. In general, if you communicated with a Buddhist who was a military man, a pathologist and a river worker, and even with a good education and encyclopedic knowledge in various fields, then you will understand me
For some reason I kept remembering “The Golden Calf”
“Have you read about the disarmament conference? - one pique vest addressed another pique vest. – Speech by Count Bernstorff.
– Bernstorff is the head! - the asked vest answered in such a tone as if he was convinced of this on the basis of his long-term acquaintance with the count. -Have you read the speech Snowden made at a meeting of voters in Birmingham, that stronghold of conservatives?
- Well, what can we talk about... Snowden is a head! Listen, Valiadis,” he addressed the third old man in Panama. – What can you say about Snowden?
“I’ll tell you frankly,” Panama answered, “Don’t put your finger in Snowden’s mouth.” I personally wouldn't put my finger on it.
And, not at all embarrassed by the fact that Snowden would never have allowed Valiadis to put his finger in his mouth, the old man continued:
- But no matter what you say, I’ll tell you frankly - Chamberlain is still a head too.
Pique vests raised the shoulders. They did not deny that Chamberlain was also a head. But most of all, Briand consoled them.
- Brian! - they said passionately. “This is the head!”

28.
No, in fact, I was ready to listen to Mikhail Vasilyevich all day, or even two. He told why smoking filtered cigarettes is more harmful than just cigarettes, how pipe tobacco differs from cigarette tobacco (he loves to smoke), the story of the Russians coming to these lands and what happened before that, how ore is mined and why the Kochkanar Mining and Processing Plant wants to evict them from here and much more.

29.
I learned a bunch new information, but never received an answer to my questions about the plans of the monastery, where the money for construction came from and why there are no documents for the land. With Buddhist directness, the lama answered me that we are what we think; that the monastery is not the main thing, the main thing is the process; and money is like food: if it is taken internally according to the body’s needs, then the food becomes food and since the body is alive, then there is food. Excellent answer from the tax office, you can use it

30.
After tea and conversation, break for work. That day they made a shed-shed for all kinds of household needs.

31.
The people here are handy, and whether you like it or not, you will inevitably learn to work with your hands. All sorts of mechanisms were collected around the area and used on the farm. No one will just drag such heavy weights up the mountain.

32.
A couple of years ago there were fewer problems with the delivery of building materials, food, and in general with movement. From the mining and processing plant there was a pass for entry and passage; the car could drive to that site with a sign for Camel.

33.
Since then, the plant’s policy has changed dramatically and even on foot the monks pass through the checkpoint illegally. There is also a path on the northern side of the mountain, but it is suitable for transporting anything only in winter.

34.
Then, with the help of dogs or a snowmobile, construction materials are thrown in. By and large, there are two seasons in the monastery: winter is the time of dropping off building materials and studying, summer is the time of construction and study.

35.
Up here there is no electricity, running water, or steam heating. No official permits, no documents. One on one with the outside world.

36.
The territory of the monastery, in fact, like the whole mountain with all the lakes, Camels, the Gagarin monument and the mass hiking trails The Kachkanarsky GOK wants to finally close it. The basin is expanding, they are starting to develop a new deposit, and there is a risk that the mountain may be destroyed by explosions.

37.
Shad Tchup Ling is the only mountain Buddhist monastery in Russia, the Kachkanarsky GOK is developing the only vanadium deposit in Russia. It’s hard to argue with money; the plant produces 55 million tons of iron ore per year.

38.
In addition to the monastery, we may also lose a mountain, as happened with one of the Sterlitamak shihans. In 2015, the mining and processing plant plans to launch production at a new deposit at the very foot of the mountain.

39.
One of the main tenets of Buddhism is that everything in this world is changeable and impermanent.

40.
But let's return to the monastery. We came there for a couple of hours, and ended up staying for a bathhouse, dinner and overnight. Where does everything come from on this rocky peak?

41.
Even though it’s May, the schedule is still winter. Studying, shopping for supplies, tea. No one stands over the students with a stick, it’s just that if you came here, it means you want to study, and in order to survive you need to do housework.

42.
This is what the monastery should become at the end of construction. Dogs provide the main assistance in transporting building materials. The guys say that they had a hard time with them until they understood what needed to be done so that they would pull the sled in the right direction. Well, the dogs seemed to understand what they wanted. But there are still cases when the whole bunch breaks to the side and runs away wherever they look, taking the sleigh with it.

43.
Mikhail says that the level of students is different. Someone with higher education, and someone needs to improve their school course. There are books in the library for every taste, that's for sure.

44.
According to the schedule, from among the monks, those on duty are appointed to take care of the household, someone is assigned to work at a construction site, and someone goes into the city on business or to buy groceries. In general, it’s like in the army.

45.
The farm has chickens, goats, a cow, and dogs. Everyone needs to be fed, everyone needs to be cleaned up.

46.
Some also need to be milked.

47.
This is a vegetable garden. They say they even grow something. Mikhail graduated from the Perm Agricultural Institute in a year and probably knows some secrets about how to grow potatoes on stones. As I say, he is a very interesting and versatile person.

48.
There is no electricity, the light comes from a kerosene stove, but there is LED lighting powered by a car battery. The laptop runs on it, and the battery is charged during the day when the gas generator is started for work.

49.
The water is local, rainwater. It is collected in a natural reservoir and taken as needed. In winter it all freezes to the bottom and you have to melt the ice and snow.

50.
As the lama says, they have been drinking for several years, the horns and hooves have not grown, so everything is fine. It was difficult in the dry years. It was summer, when there was no rain for several months and we were without water.

51.
This is how it lives somehow unique place. It is clear that not everything is legal, it is clear that outwardly it looks more like a labor community, but I would really like the GOC to find an opportunity to leave the monastery and the mountain alone.

52.
We wish the monks good luck and strength of spirit. As far as I know, now, six months later, their situation has not changed.

(Tib. “Place of practice and implementation”) founded on May 15, 1995. This amazing place, in which you understand your atomic involvement in the creation of the Universe. Shad Tchup Ling is the place where the Sun is born!

Today I will tell you about my May Day trip to Mount Kachkanar, to visit the inhabitants of Shad Tchup Ling, and I will touch a little on the topic of creation and the amazing tranquility of people who have changed their everyday life.

My trip to Mount Kachkanar to the Shad Tchup Ling Monastery took place in early spring - May 6, 2016. I started my ascent from the barrier of the Western Quarry, because the passage through Kosya is difficult to pass in the spring. A lot of melting snow.

For those who decide to visit the community, my advice to you is to call them and ask them what to bring. This is not a mandatory action, of course, but as part of hospitality, they always welcome useful gifts from guests. This time I brought them cereals, bread and vegetable oil. The community telephone number is the same: +7 965 529 2708.

The climb to Kachkanar through the Western Quarry is like a long walk; the total distance from the barrier to the monastery is about 8.5 km. The entire climb is on a dirt road, so wear shoes with thick soles, otherwise your feet will hurt very much by the middle of the journey.

Getting to the entrance of the Western Quarry is very simple - you drive into Kachkanar, drive to Krylova Street and follow it straight all the time until you hit the barrier. Here you leave the car and go around the checkpoint through the forest to the left of the checkpoint, because Security will only let you through the barrier if you have a pass. Then the path goes along a dirt road, all turns are to the left. After about 1.5 km there will be a large turn to the left. On it, if you go straight, you can go out to an observation deck, which offers an interesting view of the Western Quarry. If you chose the route correctly and kept turning left, you will come to a tree with ribbons and a sign indicating the route: Camel Mountain - straight, monastery to the right.

The road from the sign to the community itself passes through a very picturesque forest. I was much luckier - my route passed through a spring forest, which revealed its natural artistic potential in all its colors.

The foot of the Buddhist community appears in a fabulous silhouette in the rays of the spring sun, like a fairy tale impregnable castle which you must conquer. Just not with a weapon, but by stopping the internal dialogue.

The ascent along the kurumnik to the monastery is, in my opinion, the most colorful element of the entire route. Stepping carefully from stone to stone, you rise closer and closer. Closer to yourself and your questions.

The entire territory of the monastery is under active construction, the community is always open to help and is waiting for volunteers. The demolition of Shad Tchup Ling has temporarily stopped: the Kachkanar Mining and Processing Plant has frozen the development of the deposit until 2028, and the monastery, in turn, will receive landmark status. Therefore, I think this unique monument of a different faith will forever be preserved on the Ural soil!

Mount Kachkanar located near city ​​of the same name in the Sverdlovsk region, approximately 260 kilometers from Yekaterinburg.

Kachkanar is one of the most high mountains Middle Urals, reaching a height of 887.6 meters above sea level. It is composed of gabbro, peridotite and pyroxenite rocks.

Toponymists believe that the name of the mountain comes from the Turkic words “kachka” - bald and “nar” - camel.

Near the mountain lies the border of two parts of the world - Europe and Asia, as well as two regions - the Sverdlovsk region and Perm region. Near the mountain there were gold and platinum mines.

The first scientific description of Mount Kachkanar was made by a traveler in the Urals in 1770 Academician P.S. Pallas in the book “Travel through different provinces of the Russian Empire” (1786). The Voguls showed Pallas two mines where magnetic iron ore had previously been mined.

In the 1860s, the Kachkanar massif was studied by the famous geologist A.P. Karpinsky, who later headed the Academy of Sciences.

In 1957, construction began at the foot of the mountain Kachkanarsky mining and processing plant, soon one of the youngest cities in the Sverdlovsk region grew up here - city ​​of Kachkanar.

Currently, the development of titanomagnetite ores of Mount Kachkanar continues, existing huge quarries are being expanded, and new ones are being planned.

Mount Kachkanar has two peaks - northern and southern. They are called the "Northern Horn" and the "Noon Horn" respectively. Each of them is beautiful in its own way, each offers a magnificent view (the city of Kachkanar is visible only from southern summit).

There are many rock outcrops at the top of the mountain weird shape. Many of them have their own names. The most famous remnant is camel rock.

In 1995, on the top of Mount Kachkanar, Buddhist monastery "Shad Tchup Ling"(translated from Tibetan - Place of practice and implementation). Its founder is Mikhail Sannikov. The monastery has long become the main attraction of Kachkanar. Many tourists come to visit the only Buddhist monastery in the Urals; the inhabitants of the monastery do not refuse anyone. There are two stupas built in the monastery, which are considered shrines.

However, very soon the monastery, built over many years by the hands of several enthusiasts, may be wiped off the face of the earth. EVRAZ, which owns the Kachkanarsky Vanadium Mining and Processing Plant, demands the demolition of “unauthorized buildings.” Enterprises and authorities at all levels are on the side.

So, instead of a monastery on this picturesque place another quarry should be formed by 2015... At the same time, while destroying the only local attractions (the mountain and the monastery), the authorities of Kachkanar are talking about grandiose plans for the development of tourism.

In general, have time to visit Mount Kachkanar and the only Buddhist monastery in the Urals before it’s too late!..

How to get to Mount Kachkanar

1. Exit to the foot of Mount Kachkanar

From the administrative square of Kachkanar (see photo), onto Krylova Street (north) towards the bus station (200 m).

Kachkanar city administration building

Further along Krylova to the fork of the Western Quarry - the village of Valerianovsk. We are heading towards the Western Quarry. We pass the peninsula with the dispensary" Cape Verde" (on the left) and we go out to the dam. On the right railway, on the left is a bay with a tower rising from the water. We pass the dam and see a parking lot on the left. At this point, we consider the first stage to be completed.

2. We go to the southern peak

The southern peak of Mount Kachkanar (yes, the mountain has two high points, and the highest, northern one, is not visible from the city), although it is not the highest point, it is worth visiting. The path there is not as well-trodden by tourists as to the northern peak. The view of the city of Kachkanar is only possible from the southern heights. The summit rocks are compactly located. The path is about 6 kilometers with a constant uphill climb. The slope is small, so it can be overcome in one transition.

If you have a car, you will have to leave it on the site. On the left we find a path running along the shore and move along it. You need to walk to the old ski slope (600 m). You can walk along the shore, but it’s better to go uphill, so that later you’ll have to crawl up the clearing less often. The climb is steep. Having climbed to the very top, we follow the road to the left.

View from the old ski slope

After 100 meters we go out onto the road and go right, after 100 meters we turn left. We walk along the forest road without turning anywhere. At first unimportant, the road gradually widens and becomes better. After about 3.5 kilometers, you must not miss the path to the top. The road at this point goes to the right, and the path goes straight. The beginning of the path (N 58g 44m 58s; B 59g 24m 52s) is usually marked with ribbons on the trees. We go onto the path and after about 15-20 minutes we come out to the rock massifs. It’s better to remember or mark the exit of the path so that when you go back you don’t get lost in the surrounding area.

The rocks of the southern peak used to have slabs with names. Now all that remains of the slabs are holes in the stone.

Views from the southern summit

3. Let's go to mountain lake

Before the northern peak, on the mountain there is lake. Apparently they took samples of ore and dug a pit, which was subsequently filled with water. You can stop near the lake for a rest or overnight. There is a barbecue and a gazebo.

Lake on the site of a former mine

To the lake itself there is a road, but you can drive by car only with passes, since the road passes through the territory of the Kachkanarsky GOK.

From the site (see point 1) we move further along the road. After about 2 kilometers there will be a security post at the Kachkanarsky GOK. If you are driving, feel free to leave the car in front of the post. Then we go on foot. We reach the buildings and follow the road to the left. After 300 meters, on the left, there will be a checkpoint ski slope(see photo), but we go straight with a slight deviation to the right.

Passage to the ski slope

Almost immediately there will be a wide road to the right, but we don’t need to go there, we go straight up the mountain with a slight slope. After turning left the road will go around Western Quarry. There will be many paths to the right. You can follow them to the edge of the pit and watch the quarry at work.

Western Quarry

I’ll say right away that the Western Quarry has observation deck which will be on our way. Now we have reached the turn of the road to the left (about 1 kilometer away), we go there. But, if you go straight a little, on the right there will be an observation deck of the Western Quarry at the highest point.

Observation deck of the Western Quarry

But let's get back on the road. Distance from observation deck The lake is approximately 4 kilometers away.

Road

A little before reaching the lake, the path to the Buddhist monastery begins.

The beginning of the path to the Buddhist monastery

4. We go from the mountain lake to the Camel rock and to the top of Mount Kachkanar

To climb the mountain, you need to go around the lake (preferably on the left), follow the path to a clearing and start climbing. After about 700-800 meters, rock outcrops will begin and a platform with a gazebo will appear. From the site you need to turn onto the left path. Let me make a reservation right away that if you go to the right, the path will lead straight to the Buddhist monastery. But we are going to the Camel, and I’ll tell you about the monastery further. Passing through rocky rubble Camel rock appears in all its glory.

Rock "Camel"

After looking at the panorama and climbing the rock, we go further to the top, which is already visible from the Camel.

View from "Camel"

The path to the top begins immediately behind the Camel. After walking for 10-15 minutes we approach the top of Mount Kachkanar from which a panorama opens to the north. The most high point marked by a concrete structure with a pipe. Directly below the mountain is the village of Kosya, a little further from Pokap, in the northeast you can see the buildings of the monastery.

The top of Mount Kachkanar

View from the top of the villages of Kosya and Pokap

View of the monastery buildings from the top of Mount Kachkanar

Gagarin's Rock

5. We go from the mountain lake to the Shad Tchup Ling monastery

As I already mentioned, you can also get to the Shad Tchup Ling Monastery via the road leading to the top. But you need to understand that the monastery is not just a landmark and just coming to stare there is not welcome. If you want to be given attention and given a tour, and also treated to local tea, then it is better to plan such an event. It is not customary to come to the monastery empty-handed. Food is welcome: sugar, tea, cookies, cereals, etc. Also, near the beginning of the path to the monastery there are building materials, and if you take bricks, boards, or whatever else is there, it will be good.

So, the beginning of the path to the Shad Tchup Ling monastery is not far from the lake on the way from Kachkanar. There is no way you can miss this place. You can see piles of building materials, old cars, a sign reminding “Friend. When you go to the monastery, take some bricks, don’t allow empty runs,” as well as a sign for tourists indicating that it is not at all necessary to go through the monastery to the Camel.

After about a kilometer, a large clearing with a cable crossing will appear, along which construction materials are dragged into the monastery.

Glade with cable crossing

“Message board” of the monastery

The monastery has two stupas, living quarters, a bathhouse, a guest house, and a farmstead. Constant construction is underway.

M.V. Malakhov wrote about Kachkanar in the 19th century:

“I climbed Kachkanar from the east, from where access is considered less convenient than from the west. Having passed Mount Elovaya, which is the eastern spur of Kachkanar and covered with fragments of rocks very similar to Kachkanar in its general character and content of magnetic iron ore, we began to climb Kachkanar The entire rise is covered with boulders; the bulk of them consists of grains of augite with veins of magnetic iron ore. We observed its first significant occurrence on the large terrace of the Isovsky slope of the mountain in typical coarse-grained augite rock. The co-occurrence of iron and this rock here is apparently not accidental. , which is confirmed by further observations. Along the entire ascent to the northern peak from this occurrence, magnetic iron ore was encountered at every step, but only in small veins, as well as on the northernmost peak. Heading from here along the slope of the Kachkanar peak, one has to descend into the basin that separates it. both peaks. Further, the signs of magnetic iron ore disappear and sharply appear again in the vast placer of magnetic iron ore located at the base of Kachkanar."

A trip to Kachkanar can be combined with a visit to Mount Kolpaki.

Monastery on Mount Kachkanar

Welcome to Mount Kachkanar!

© Alexander PETROV (route description, photo),
Kachkanar, 2011
© Pavel Raspopov (place description)
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