Tent: the agony of choosing what to buy? Which tent is better to choose - with an internal frame or an external one? Inner tent

How to choose the right camping tent? Every tourist, both beginner and experienced, was concerned about choosing a tent for hiking, trekking or climbing. In this article you will find almost all the selection criteria that you need to pay attention to when purchasing. After reading this article you will be armed with a wealth of knowledge about camping tents. We hope that even experts will find it interesting!

Passion for hiking is not only a desire to see and learn new things wonderful places, being in nature, outside of cities, but also a certain challenge to the usual way of life. The traveler somehow goes beyond the usual boundaries of comfort. Cooking in the forest or mountains, the vagaries of the weather, the physical difficulties of overcoming obstacles force us to re-evaluate the meaning of the very concept of “comfort” in a completely different way. Comfortable hiking shoes, a good fit, dry, warm and, of course, a reliable tent - these are the main “pillars” on which the feeling of comfort on a hike rests. Today we will talk about tents.

Of course, there are a great many types of tents - commercial, military, and even entire pavilion tents of enormous size. Here we will look at tourist tents. By tourist tent we mean a mobile shelter that can protect the traveler from the vicissitudes of the weather - rain, wind, insects and small animals, cold (within certain limits, of course). A tourist tent should have a reliable design, be simple and easy to install and fold, take up little space when folded, and provide normal conditions for rest and sleep when unfolded.

Even twenty years ago and earlier, in the post-Soviet tourism space there was not much choice - most used the same type of serial structures, bulky and heavy, or they had to make tents themselves. There were few foreign models and products from a few local manufacturers, and they were inaccessible to many. Gradually the market filled up a large number a wide variety of models - for every taste and budget. Understanding this diversity can be difficult not only for a novice tourist, but also for more experienced travelers.

WHERE TO BUY A TREKTING TENT?

If this is your first tent purchase and you are not an experienced market expert, it is best to make your first purchase from a large outfitter. Here you can choose from a variety of models, see, touch and even install/fold the model you like. As a rule, such stores employ real experts in the tourism industry, so they sell the most suitable, functional models, and do not order everything in a row, like large online stores for “everything in the world.” Here they can really help you with advice when choosing. Sellers usually use the equipment themselves and are not theoretical consultants. The main thing is not to fall completely under the influence of the seller.

HOW TO BUY FROM THE EQUIPMENT CENTER?

Remember, there are very few real “level 1000 pumped up sales masters” who can delve into your specific request and sell what you need. In most cases, even an experienced tourist mountaineer, who is also a sales consultant, will sell you equipment “for himself.” This can lead to you falling under the “magical influence of a specialist” and purchasing something that you don’t quite need. To avoid this, go shopping as prepared as possible, draw up criteria for your choice, even write them down. Save photos of models you like on the Internet on your smartphone. You know that in photos on the Internet everything may not look the same as in reality. When forming your desires before purchasing, avoid large quantity advisors, especially those with poor qualifications - you risk getting completely confused. If possible, choose a couple of really smart people whose opinions you trust, and describe your task to them as constructively as possible. They will ask you the right questions themselves. After that, go to the store. The chosen tent must be unfolded, ask permission to climb inside - lie on the mat, sit. If you are going to become an avid tourist, remember - this is your future home in the most different places and conditions and you must be confident in it.

Now let's look at what you definitely need to know about tents.

Basic criteria for choosing a tent:

TENT DESIGNS

Nowadays, most tents, even budget series, are made from modern, completely reliable materials. Now almost ALL tents are completely waterproof and have seams taped with special heat-shrink tape. In many cases, the material has ceased to be the No. 1 criterion in selection. The only exceptions may be the cheapest models, the so-called “supermarket tents” - they should be avoided. The first thing you will need to decide on when choosing is what kind of tent design do you need?

Most modern tents are stretched on a frame. So, by default, your tent will have a frame. But there are tents without their own frame. They are stretched using trekking poles (it would be good if you had them) or improvised means. In what cases should you pay attention to such designs?

FRAMELESS TENTS

You are a minimalist lightweight traveler and you save every gram; you are ready to sacrifice the convenience of an overnight stay in favor of weight and compactness. You will rarely need a tent on a hike or may not need it at all; you take it “just in case.” Perhaps just an awning will suit you or bivy bag. The type of tourist activity inexorably requires you to have a light and as compact backpack as possible - ski tours, complex via ferats, adventure races, etc.

When choosing such a design, it is worth keeping in mind the pros and cons.

Pros of a frameless tent:

• Minimum packaging volume and weight.
• Relatively low cost (not always, there are very expensive models).
• Opportunity to more fully use your equipment (trekking poles, skis).

Disadvantages of a frameless tent:

• Often less easy to install compared to self-supporting structures.
• Usually poorer habitability and wind resistance.
• Now on the market there are frame tents weighing less than a kilogram. They are expensive, but maybe it's worth taking a closer look at them?

Frame tent structures

Most modern frame structures on the market have a self-supporting frame. In other words, these are free-standing tents; in calm weather they practically do not need guylines. However, in many models it is still necessary to stretch individual parts of them to give the correct shape and maximum internal volume. The use of a free-standing tent is possible, including on camping decks, asphalt and concrete sites, soft sand - where it is problematic to fix the guy ropes. Also, tensile structures are very common, the installation of which is possible only with the help of guy wires.

Frame material

FIBERGLASS, FIBERGLASS

Suitable for tents in the lower price range. Worst case scenario- black, matte, opaque fiberglass. If possible, choose a frame made of reinforced plastic - it is more reliable and durable. A plastic frame is suitable where weight, extreme wind resistance and use at sub-zero temperatures are not critical. If you do not want to spend a lot of money on equipment, go hiking not very often and in the warm season - this is your possible choice.

ALUMINUM

The most balanced material for the frame. It should be taken into account that simpler grades of aluminum are used on budget structures than on more expensive ones. They are somewhat heavier and have less strength and elasticity. On more expensive models, more functional grades of aluminum and aluminum alloys are used. Top models can be equipped with frames made of scandium and even CARBON. Also, some well-known and expensive manufacturers order frames from specialized developers for maximum reliability and to give their products a touch of “eliteness”. The most famous manufacturer of tent frames is DAC. You should know that this famous creator of the most durable frames has both simpler and more expensive lines. Check this point with the seller.

INFLATABLE FRAME

So far, such tents are still so rare that there is no point in writing about them.

EXTERNAL OR INNER FRAME?

INNER FRAME

The most common solution. The frame is located between the inner and outer tents. The inner tent is hung on it, and the awning is simply pulled over the top and secured.

Pros of a tent with an internal frame:

• The length of the frame is shorter than with an external arrangement, which means weight and size are saved.
• Installation is possible only with an inner tent, which is popular in good weather.
• If you have a special kit (usually purchased separately, but sometimes included in the kit), you can install only the outer tent without the inner one with a separate bottom, which at other times can be used as a FOOTPRINT (protective bedding).
• The outer surface of the tent is as smooth and streamlined as possible; snow and debris accumulate on it less.

Cons tents with inner frame :

• Perhaps slightly worse wind resistance.
• If the frame breaks, it can tear the awning material.
• When installed in the rain, the inner tent has time to get wet.
• Installation in windy conditions is less convenient.

HUB FRAME

A recent invention. Mainly used in models of the ultralight segment. The main feature is the presence of “hubs” - frame connections that allow you to optimize its overall length, volume, and therefore weight. Typically used as an internal frame. The main advantages are low weight with a large internal volume of the tent. The main disadvantages are worse wind resistance and high cost. Often the hub frame is an all-in-one structure - all frame elements are connected to each other by an elastic cable, forming, as it were, one complex arc. This frame is easy to fold even for a beginner.

EXTERNAL FRAME

Located on top of the entire structure, the arcs are visible. The inner tent is attached to the outer one. There are two main options for attaching the awning to the external frame. Using PAT POCKETS. These are peculiar sleeves made of mesh or fabric into which the frame is threaded, after which it is fixed with tips in special eyelets. On the one hand, this is the most wind-resistant design that distributes the load as evenly as possible, but on the other hand, it is the most labor-intensive to install. Sometimes the final installation (stretching) of the tips into the eyelets involves such effort that some girls or teenagers are not able to complete it! So practice before you buy. The second option is using hooks or carabiners. Reminiscent of attaching the inner tent to the frame in models with an inner frame. Such a system has unsurpassed convenience and speed of installation! If you took the trouble to attach the inner tent to the outer one in advance (or you have a single-layer tent), installation will take a matter of seconds. This can be especially appreciated in stormy conditions. At the same time, carbines do not provide phenomenal load distribution of the first option. Now it's up to you to choose.

Pros of a tent with an external frame:

1. Possibility to install an inner tent together with an outer one.
2. Possibility to install an outer tent without an inner one and without a bottom, like an awning.
3. Good wind resistance, easier to place in the wind.
4. If the frame breaks, the awning usually remains intact, making repairs easier.
5. When pitched in the rain, the inner tent remains dry.

Cons tents with external frame:

1. You cannot set up an inner tent without an awning!
2. The frame is relatively longer and heavier than in the first option.
3. Retains snow and debris (leaves, branches, serves as a basis for weaving webs, etc.)
4. Considerable installation effort may occur.
5. Typically, such structures are equipped with floor belts connecting the attachment points of the ends of the arches. Straps can get tangled and make installation difficult.
6. Installation from scratch, without an attached inner layer, is quite labor-intensive.

CONCLUSION: For most tourists, the option with an internal frame is preferable, as confirmed by sales volumes. Tents with an external frame are more suitable for professional use - in the mountains, cold climates, weather conditions.

SINGLE OR DOUBLE LAYER TENT?

Most tents sold have a two-layer design. Typically, this is an inner tent equipped with a bathtub-shaped (extending to the walls) waterproof bottom and a lightweight, breathable top, part of which is made of lightweight mesh. In tents for use in warm and hot seasons, almost the entire top can be made of mesh; in models for colder conditions, the amount of mesh is much less and it can be closed with a denser fabric using a zipper. An outer tent is usually a protective awning made of waterproof, durable fabric with attached guy ropes. It is usually connected to the inner tent through the frame using special fastex or other fixing devices equipped with a tension mechanism. It allows you to stretch the awning as tightly as possible, which is necessary during rain or wind. A double-layer tent forms an air gap between the inner and outer tent. This makes staying in it more comfortable in both hot and cold weather and largely prevents condensation in the living area, which is very important for keeping your belongings dry during the hike.

Single layer tent this is either a very cheap and extremely simplified “supermarket” option, or a specialized design for certain tasks. Almost all single-layer tents, one way or another, have problems with condensation, even when using special breathable fabrics, so their use in most cases is limited to winter, mountains and other places with low air temperatures where condensation is not so critical. Also, single-layer tents are cooler in the cold, and hotter in the sun than their double-layer counterparts. In return, they offer the ultimate in low weight and volume, ease of installation and folding in extreme weather conditions, and minimal installed dimensions, which allows them to be placed in the smallest flat area. As you already understand, this is not an option for everyone! It is also worth considering the often very high cost of such structures.

TENT SHAPE

Dome tent

Dome structures are the most common. For decades, such tents have faithfully served tourists, climbers, hunters and fishermen. The simplest dome design is formed by a frame of two posts crossed in the middle. This tent is easy to set up and lightweight. At the same time, it cannot boast of a spacious lobby (one or two). Often, to increase functionality (internal volume, wind resistance), one or more frame arcs or special frame struts are added to the structure. The more intersections the frame elements make with each other, the stronger the tent.

Half barrel tent

The second most common type of tent today. In popularity it lags behind the dome by orders of magnitude. Appearance This type of tent is clear from the name. The main disadvantage is that the tent is not free-standing (self-supporting); guy ropes are required. Installation is usually more difficult, especially for beginners. The main advantage is excellent wind resistance (if installed correctly), good internal volume, and low weight. This type of tent is rarely chosen by beginners; mostly, its owners are experienced tourists who are able to take advantage of the advantages and compensate for the disadvantages.

tent tent

A classic that looks like an Indian tipi, wigwam or yurt. Typically mounted on the center pillar, although there are other options. A very common option in North America, we have little demand. Mainly on post-Soviet space a similar design is used for winter hikes, as a rule, ski ones, since it is convenient for using ski equipment as a frame and installing a stove. Often there are options without gender.

"HOUSE"

Once the only option for Soviet tourists. The construction is usually single-layer. Nowadays it is not very widespread due to its low habitability, dependence on guy wires and installation difficulties. A rare guest on store shelves. In a new interpretation - a compact frameless tent mounted on trekking poles, a frequent choice of “survivalists”, “bushcrafters” and beginner light walkers.

NUMBER OF INPUT. VESTIBULES (VESTIBULAS), PLACEMENT OF THINGS IN A TENT

Many people are accustomed to the fact that a tent should have one entrance (exit). It's nice when the tent entrance allows for convenient use in the rain. Practice shows that two inputs are much better than one. Therefore, if possible, choose a model with two inputs. If you do not expect to often use the tent in narrow areas, it is better to choose a model with side entrances (provided that you have a 2-3 person tent; if the tent is larger, then the entrance/exit is at the heads/legs - good option). What is the best way to organize storage space? Of course, it is better to keep small things and some clothes at hand in the tent itself, for which you will find pockets in it useful and the “mezzanine” - a shelf under the ceiling - is especially pleasant. It is convenient to keep backpacks, shoes and bulky/dirty things in vestibules. In theory, the more there are (that is, two are better than one) and the larger their volume (for example, it’s good when a separate frame arc is “responsible” for the vestibule), the better. In practice, you are constantly balancing between the useful volume of the tent and vestibules and its weight/size/cost. Think about what will be important to you and base your choice on that. Where do you want to shift the emphasis - towards comfort or light weight?

Tent bottom material

Most tents have fabric bottoms. The bottom is constantly under heavy load - you lie on it, press, press with your elbows and knees. However, your tent is rarely placed on an ideal surface. Therefore, it is good that the bottom is made of high-strength fabric. The modern trend of weight reduction forces many manufacturers to strive more for lightening the product, rather than for its strength and service life. In some ways, it is beneficial for the manufacturer that your tent wears out faster and is replaced with a new one. If you are also looking for weight and buy an ultra-light tent, be especially careful when using it. I also advise you to use FOOTPRINT (bedding) on ​​suspicious surfaces. The bottom material must not only be very durable, but also have increased water resistance. In the classical European measurement system, the minimum water resistance value for the bottom of a tent should be considered to be 5000 mm. But remember that pressing with your elbow will create more pressure and the tent may leak. An indicator of 10,000 mm of water column is considered absolutely reliable. At the same time, for an awning it is enough to have characteristics of 3-5000 mm. American manufacturers report significantly more modest figures. But, firstly, they are guaranteed to last a lifetime for the fabric, and secondly, the system for assessing water resistance overseas is somewhat different from the European one.

On cheap tents, the floor can be made of structured polyethylene, which looks like an oilcloth bag from a supermarket. There is nothing terrible about such a field if used infrequently. It is heavier and somewhat more cumbersome, but can be easily repaired with mounting tape. This floor is suitable for those who are not too demanding and thrifty tourists. I happened to live in a tent with a polyethylene floor and a fiberglass frame on Elbrus, at an altitude of 4200 meters, for several nights in fairly fresh weather, and the tent coped with this test perfectly. True, polyethylene can easily freeze to ice.

Tent material processing

In nature, especially in the mountains, the tent is exposed not only to mechanical stress, but also to strong solar radiation. To resist ultraviolet radiation and provide better moisture protection, most tents have additional fabric treatment. Silicone coating resists ultraviolet radiation and moisture best. For internal impregnation and bottom impregnation, a polyurethane coating of fabric is often used. Different types coatings have their advantages and disadvantages, which we will not dwell on in this review article. It would also be useful to have fire-retardant impregnation of the awning and inner tent. This will help avoid damage from sparks or careless handling of the fire inside.

OPERATING FEATURES

COOKING IN A TENT

Be very careful and careful! Avoid using burners inside the tent unless absolutely necessary. If this cannot be avoided, cook in a vestibule, making sure that there is plenty of air flow and that no part of the burner or cookware comes into contact with the tent material. Avoid cooking in a tent using integrated systems such as a jetboil, reactor and similar - they are extremely dangerous. There are many known accidents associated with this.

PACKING A TENT ON A CAMPING

You don't always have to put your tent in its cover. You can separate the tent parts and carry them separately from each other. The wet tarpaulin can be placed on the backpack while moving to dry. When packing a tent without a cover in a backpack, make sure that it will not be damaged by sharp objects.

TENT CARE

Modern tents are made of synthetic materials, they are very unpretentious and require a minimum of maintenance. At the same time, they can serve you for a very long time. Still, the tent should at least be dried after a hike. When folding, avoid stereotypical (habitual) bends - in the same places. Repair your tent as soon as possible after damage occurs, using a suitable repair kit.

SEASONALITY OF USE

A very conditional characteristic. Extreme tents are often labeled as “all-season” tents, but their use in summer is often uncomfortable. At the same time, two- or three-season tents are often successfully used in winter and in the mountains. However, there are some things to understand. Thus, one of the main characteristics that determines the possibilities of use is wind resistance. A tent with a weak frame and large windage is hardly worth taking for difficult weather; it will not be able to withstand increased wind and snow loads. If you have a warm sleeping bag, you can use a tent with more mesh inside in cold conditions, but it is important that it is strong enough and that the flysheet reaches as low to the ground as possible. Contrary to the beliefs of some tourists, a snow skirt is not at all a mandatory attribute of “winter” tents, although it can often be of great use in snow and strong winds. However, many very well-known manufacturers sell “winter” tents without snow skirts. Seasoned campers know that a good windbreak can often be a more important factor than a skirt or a very strong tent.

You must understand that modern super-technological tents in the “ultralight” segment may not withstand heavy loads and take this into account in your travels. You also need to know that even the most expensive, heavy and durable super extreme tent can be torn and simply destroyed by hurricane winds.

Tourist wisdom, knowledge and developed intuition are often more important than the latest and greatest expensive equipment. And while waiting for the arrival of all these important qualities and gain the necessary experience, try to use the equipment strictly for its intended purpose, take into account the positioning of the manufacturer and always use common sense.

Good luck with your choice and pleasant travels!

A typical modern tent consists of two layers: an inner tent made of thin breathable fabric and a waterproof awning. It would seem, why fence such a garden? Make a tent from a solid piece of waterproof material and you will be happy. But the fact is that when we breathe, among other things, we constantly exhale water vapor, which actively condenses on the walls that cool down overnight (more on this). The solution was to make the walls of the tent from light fabric that almost does not impede the passage of air, and then cover it on top with a waterproof awning, on which everything will condense. A gap of 10-15 cm is left between them , and the drops, without wetting anything, flow safely down to the ground. There is a kind of division of responsibilities between the layers of the tent: the awning does not let rain and wind inside, and the inner tent protects us from mosquitoes, plus it makes the inner space somewhat warmer (on average 5-8°C above the outside temperature).

Thanks to their convenience, double-layer tents have now almost completely replaced their single-layer predecessors. The vast majority of what you can find in a tourist parking lot or in a store has a two-layer construction.

So, the main forms of tents:

• Gable house. Two vertical posts supporting the roof ridge. The entire structure is held together solely by pegs driven into the ground. Throughout the 20th century it was an inescapable classic. Now the structure is dying, and in modern tents practically no longer used, being replaced by more modern forms. This is primarily due to poor habitability. Especially in rain or with a side wind, when the walls of the tent begin to sag a little. On the other hand, such tents are quite light and cheap.
• Barrel. The arcs are elastically bent in a semicircle and are located one parallel to the other. Overall, a decent design type that is still actively used. Its advantages include very good habitability and slightly lower weight compared to a sphere. To set up such a tent, it must be stretched to the sides using pegs. And if in a normal situation this does not pose any difficulty, then on rocky or sandy soil it still adds a little trouble.
• Sphere. A design where elastically bent arches intersect with each other. In practice, the shape is not always exactly a hemisphere, as geometric figure. But in some ways it is vaguely similar to her. Its main advantage is that such a tent itself holds its shape. It is easy to install; if necessary, it can be lifted and moved from one place to another, turned upside down to dry the bottom, etc. This is the most common type of design.
• Rigid frame (cube). The frame is made of thick curved pipes, most often steel. Due to its almost rectangular shape, such a tent is most convenient for standing in it at full height, for field kitchens, sun canopies, etc. But due to the very large weight and longer assembly time, it is used only in camping (road trips) or in country courtyards.

Also quite often there are combined options, when several forms are combined in the tent design. For example, a sphere and a barrel .

External or internal frame

Structurally, all two-layer tents are divided into those in which the frame arcs are located inside (between the inner tent and the awning) and those in which they are located outside. From the point of view of living in them, there is no difference. The only difference is the assembly process. In a tent with an internal frame, the inner tent is first attached to the poles, after which the awning is put on top. And in a tent with an external frame, the awning and the inner tent are already fastened together and cling to the frame simultaneously, in one action (for more information about assembling both types, see).

As for tourist (hiking) tents, in stores you can find many models to choose from, both with external and internal frames. But camping tents, with a few exceptions, are almost all external frame tents, since hooking hooks and throwing an awning on a structure two meters high is not everyone’s height.

Each type has its own pros and cons. It’s easy to pitch a tent with an external frame when it’s raining: roll out the bundle, stretch it on the poles and you’re done. While the inner frame gets wet during assembly, until it is covered with an awning (although this can be successfully combated). On the other hand, when dismantling the inner-frame tent in the morning, we remove the awning from it and can, shaking off drops of condensation, quickly dry it. With an external frame tent, on the contrary, it is somewhat more complicated. If you shake it, most of the condensation will not fall to the ground, but will wet the inner tent fastened to the awning. So you have to climb inside, unhook all the hooks with which they are connected, dry them, and then hook everything back. If cold nights rich in condensation come one after another, and every day you assemble and disassemble the tent, then it can seem quite dreary...

Automatic tents

And, in conclusion, I will say a few words about the so-called prefabricated or quickly assembled tents (automatic tents). Usually, a person who is previously unfamiliar with tourism assembles his first tent in 20-30 minutes. There is something to think about, something to experiment with. But once he does this just a few times, the process begins to take only 5-7 minutes. With bulky camping tents there is a little more, but in general the situation is approximately the same. So the vast majority of people who regularly engage in tourism or simply relax in nature do not find it difficult to assemble and disassemble their tents in the usual way every day.

However, there are several types of automatic tents. First of all, these are spring-loaded structures rolled into a flat disk. I took this pancake out of the packaging, threw it on the ground, h-h-h-o-o-o-p, and the tent was already assembled. True, folding it back still requires some skill. Here you already need to know what to do, otherwise you can then circle around helplessly for a long time, wondering how to pack your home back (,). These are always fairly cheap tents, without any claims to lightness, compactness or special reliability. Accordingly, going to the river a couple of times a year for a weekend or putting it in the yard for the children – yes. But taking such a thing even on the simplest five-day hike is already a rather controversial decision. Here we must remember about some inherent disadvantages of this design: when assembled, it is a rather voluminous disk that has to be worn, attached somewhere outside the backpack, due to the low rigidity of the frame, even with a slight wind it begins to chew and swing from side to side, and if one of the rings of the frame breaks, then you need to sculpt serious crutches to save the situation and somehow survive the rest of the night.

The second type of automatic tent works like an umbrella. . These are already more serious designs. In essence, these are the same ordinary tents, only their poles are already pre-sewn to the awning. They are produced here mainly by Greenell and Maverick. As a downside to quick assembly, in in this case, this means slightly more weight and less reliability (the collapsible joints of the poles sometimes become clogged with sand, and if something breaks, such a tent can only be repaired by taking it to the dealer or it will remain disabled for life). But in certain cases, “umbrellas” can be a very good option. For example, when fishing, where you need to move from place to place several times during the day.

However, I repeat once again: prefabricated tents are rather an exception to the rule.

From personal achievements: My friends and I, as talented guys, having seen for the first time in our lives such a miracle as an automatic Maverick, managed to assemble it inside out. That is, the frame is not outward, but inward. He cracked and resisted, but we still managed to do it. So, yes... the first acquaintance with some thing is a wonderful time. There is room for imagination...

Here in this article, internal arches mean an installation scheme in which the inner tent is first placed, and then the awning is placed on it; Accordingly, in a design with external arches, the awning is first stretched, and then the inner tent is suspended from it.

Both schemes have their own certain advantages and disadvantages, which the article will focus on.

Tents with external poles are presented in fewer models on the outdoor market than the more “classic” ones with internal poles. Actually, the defining difference between them is the fact that a tent with external poles can be set up simultaneously with an internal tent and not be unfastened during the hike.

That is, at the first bivouac, we install the awning, fasten the inner liner to it, and in the morning we remove everything at the same time. In the evening we set everything up again at the same time and continue like this for the rest of the hike.

The advantages are immediately clear - quick installation and removal of the camp, moreover, than worse weather, the more noticeable the difference will be. At the same time, in the rain, the inner tent remains dry, and wet users are able to quickly get into a warm sleeping bag.

These advantages also come with disadvantages, which are not always immediately obvious. In particular, problems arise with drying the tent. If the arches are internal, then we will remove the awning, throw it over a bush, a stone, or just whatever happens, the inside also dries quickly. It’s not so easy to dry a tent on the outer poles, even if you open the entrance and ventilation wide open. If you really want to dry it out, you still have to unfasten the inner tent. If the tent itself is small, like or, then fussing around with unfastening and fastening in the conditions of a walking route, from the point of view of the time spent on this matter, to put it mildly, is not productive. As a result, the tent is usually packed wet - by the way, this action does nothing for it. In locations where rain in the summer is the fundamental norm and where, sometimes, the sun appears in the sky through the clouds only on holidays or thanks to a temporarily sober local shaman - for example, ridges and - drying does not play a role at all and the disadvantage ceases to be significant.

By the way, thanks to the aforementioned hiking areas, I generally feel very good about silicone (Si) on tents, since in this case, after the rain, you have to carry slightly less water along with the tent...

In harsh winter, if we travel with a two-layer tent, the situation is somewhat different.

Before packing, the tent usually has to be cleaned of condensation. If, for example, the three of us sleep in a tent well dug into a snowdrift, then there will be a lot of condensation, both in the interior and on the inside of the tent.

If the arcs are internal, then we remove the awning, clean it with a mitten, then clean the interior from the inside, turn it over and pour the condensate out of it through the entrance.

If the arcs are external, then first we clean the interior from the inside, sweep the condensation out, unfasten it from the awning, clean it from the inside and then remove the arcs.

As a result, in the case of external arcs, the operation of collecting and installing the camp significantly increases in time. At the same time, the suspension and removal of the inner tube in the forty-degree frost turns into a procedure that is most fascinating in its obscene content. It gets worse especially in those cases when the manufacturer uses fastex instead of hooks in the corners of the tent and some kind of cunningly hackneyed asymmetrical shape of their product, where first you half-fasten the inner liner, and then it turns out that you oriented it incorrectly. Unfastening the inner cage and rotating it in the light of a lantern dimming in the cold under the hurrying and accusing shouts of suffering comrades, you become completely confused and begin to remember with bad words the designer of this misfortune ( for the future - it’s very cool if you know his name, it allows you to come up with more descriptive epithets), remember orientation by stars and sextant ( because it seems that you can’t fasten it correctly any other way), and also recall the astrological and Orthodox horoscopes for the hike.

Of the winter advantages, one can subjectively note only that in a strong wind, in my opinion, setting up a tent with external arches is somewhat easier - especially for one person and if the suspension of the inner does not require much sophistication in verbal constructions :)

In a stationary camp, naturally, there are fewer hemorrhoids with condensation cleaning. By the way, the double-sided silicone coating of the awning, as it is unfortunate to admit due to the price of such tents, makes cleaning from condensation somewhat easier - it, subjectively, freezes to such a coating much less diligently.

One of the very good and obvious advantages of external arches is the fact that installing a separate awning without an interior can be a very convenient thing. We're settling down for lunch and it starts to rain? We put up an awning and had no problems. The same is true in piercing winds and open areas, especially in winter - tie guy ropes to the backpacks laid on the ground or snow/ice and the shelter is ready. Of course, this is all true for options when, during transportation, the inner tent is not fastened to the awning, and the awning itself, along with the poles, lies somewhere in a pocket or the flap of a backpack, or on drags.

As for snow resistance and wind resistance, these factors depend on Where the location of the arcs does not depend, but rather depends on other parameters, including How they are located. That is, to consider snow and wind resistance, it is necessary to consider the entire design of the product, as well as the materials from which it is made.

Choosing a tent with one or another arc arrangement is more a choice of individual preference in the “who likes what” format. In my opinion, when choosing, you should definitely consider the totality of other structural elements - self-support, the number of arcs and their intersections, the materials of the tent and arcs, the location and number of guy ropes, and the like. Well, and most importantly, the choice of a tent, like all other equipment, must be consistent with the principle of self-sufficiency for the events in which we are going to participate.

Currently, those selling camping equipment have a huge selection of tents from various manufacturers. Prices for different models may differ several times from different manufacturers.

Let's try to figure out what prices depend on.

What are we buying?

In this review, we will not compare various designs, as well as differences inherent in brands.
Of course, a well-promoted brand costs more, but we must not forget that a serious company (brand) always values ​​its name and cannot afford to offer the buyer products of poor quality.

So, by buying a little more expensive, you are insured against troubles that may arise during operation. And the more complex and intense the operating conditions are, the more the safety of the person using the equipment depends on the quality of the equipment.

All other things being equal, different tent models use different fabrics, fittings, threads, etc. Let me draw your attention in this article to these most important components of any product, on which the cost of the equipment and its functional properties mainly depend.

Tourist tent: materials, technologies, quality

CODING of tent materials

Tents and materials released in different countries, by different manufacturers, are labeled completely differently. Moreover, you will not find two companies that would designate fabrics in the same way.

Complete chaos is observed in the numbers describing such properties as water resistance, “breathing” properties of membrane materials, strength, and weight. This is due to the use of data obtained from different tests conducted under different conditions. Many companies “forget” to indicate accurate data or consider it unnecessary - often this is dictated by competition.

When choosing a tent, you should pay attention to the designation of the awning fabric.

Here's what you can find in various descriptions:

• Rip Stop Nylon 190T
• 210T Rip Stop Nylon PU 3000
• 185T Polyester Taffeta PU/Si
• 210T Rip Stop Nylon PU
• 70D Polyester Ripstop W/R
• 75D Polyester Ripstop PU/SI
• 70D Nylon Taffeta 210T PU
• 75D Nylon Taffeta W/R
• 75D Poly Taffeta PU

Let's look at these codes in order. The description may contain information about the following fabric properties:

Density (strength)

There are different ways to mark fabric density:

• Thread Count is the total number of threads per square inch in the longitudinal and transverse directions (for example: 210T means 210 threads). The higher the number, the denser the fabric.
• Den (Denie) - the thickness of the threads involved in the weave (for example: 75D).

Chemical composition of threads:

1. Polyester, Poly - polyester.
2. Nylon - nylon (polyamide).

Type of weaving of the fabric (for example: Rip Stop, Taffeta - fabrics with weaves, where a thicker thread is woven through a certain number of threads. In this case, the fabric will be more tensile with a slight increase in weight).

Tactel - a type of special threads (sometimes: Nylon 66, Dupon Nylon 66, Tactel, etc.); usually a proper name.

Type of fabric treatment (e.g. PU 3000):

• PU - polyurethane coating (usually applied to the inside of the fabric).
• 3000 is the indicator of the waterproofness of the fabric in millimeters of water column (up to 1500 mm - the fabric cannot be considered waterproof; when it rains it will begin to leak; 3000 mm or more - the awning fabric will withstand almost any weather conditions).
• PU/SI - polyurethane coating plus silicone, which can be applied to the inside or outside of the fabric.
• W/R - water-repellent coating on top of the fabric.

An example of a full description of the tent awning material:

70D/75D Nylon Taffeta 210T PU 3000 W/R

• fabric made of special polyamide threads with Taffeta weave, 70D thick in the longitudinal direction and 75D in the transverse direction
• density 210T
• with a polyurethane coating that “holds” 3000 mm of water column
• the fabric has a water-repellent upper treatment

Brief comments on all parts of the tent

awning tents

• The thickness of the threads is responsible for the strength. Thicker threads also give more weight to the fabric.
• Thread Count is an equally important parameter.
• Loose fabric warps, stretches a lot and, as a rule, is not durable.

Polyester is more UV resistant than Nylon, which is very important for awnings. In addition, Nylon fiber fabric stretches when wet and contracts when dry (i.e. you will have to re-stretch the Nylon awning each time the humidity and temperature changes)

Water resistance (water resistance - measured in mm of water column), a very important indicator.

Awning fabric with a rating of 3000 mm will withstand almost any rain.

It is important that the water resistance value indicated in the characteristics of the tent corresponds to reality (for many companies this is not the case).

Water resistance of 3000 mm is achieved by double application of polyurethane impregnation, 5000 mm by triple application and so on.

It is clear that each application means additional weight and price. PU impregnation is applied to the inside of the awning. At the “correct” factories, it is applied in such a way that it does not crumble, does not crack, and lasts a long time.

The question arises: why do we need such high water resistance if we are not going to put up tents under water?

Here's the thing. A drop of water with a certain weight falling from a great height has kinetic energy and when it hits an awning it can simply “pierce” a material with low water resistance.

The second reason is that the material gradually wears out and begins to leak over time. Accordingly, the more waterproof the tent is, the longer your tent will last.

Silicone treatment is usually applied to the top or bottom layer of the material (can also be applied over PU impregnation, but in this case it is not possible to seal the seams).Most tent companies now use fabric with silicone applied to the outside.This impregnation is very durable and functional: silicone prevents moisture from accumulating in the fabric fibers. At the same time, the silicone coating significantly increases the tensile strength of the fabric.

If Rip Stop weaving is used, then such a fabric will be more durable with a slight increase in weight
All tent manufacturers shorten the descriptive part when specifying material characteristics.

Pay attention to the taping of the seams. They must be taped with a special thermal tape. If they tell you about the special properties of the fabric, in which the holes from the needle are tightly tightened around the thread and do not allow water to pass through, I can assure you that after a short period of use the fabric will stretch and in heavy rain it will flow like a sieve.

INNER TENT

If the awning of the tent is designed to protect you from the rain, then you will have to live in the inner one. Just like your favorite room, an inner tent should be comfortable (extra pockets, durable seams, large living space).

Pay attention to the color of the inner tent: it should be light and match the color of the awning. Otherwise, the morning will seem joyless to you. Light passing through two obstacles can change the complexion of the inhabitants of the tent beyond recognition. It’s not very pleasant to see your neighbor’s blue or green face every morning.

The fabric from which the inner tent is made must have the following properties:

• Be light and durable (preferably Rip Stop weave), because... The inner tent takes on a significant load during operation.
• Possess good "breathing" properties, but at the same time block the wind.
• It is advisable that the inner tent has a water-repellent W/R treatment. This impregnation will protect you from drops of condensation that, under certain weather conditions, appear on the inside of the awning. The drops will roll off without penetrating into the living space. W/R treatment does not impair the breathability of the inner tent.

For an inner tent, Nylon is better. It is softer and more tensile than polyester. UV resistance is not important for an inner tent.

BOTTOM OF THE TENT

The material of the bottom of the tent can be made of fabric or structural polyethylene (as on the bags of “shuttles” in which they transport their cargo). Polyethylene is typically used in cheap tents; fabric - in good condition

The fabric on the bottom of the tent should be more waterproof than the tent fly.

• 5000 - 10000 mm is enough to prevent water from penetrating inside the tent under strong pressure. The fabric of the floor is under pressure from the bodies of sleeping tourists. This pressure can cause the fabric to become wet.
• The floor fabric with 3000mm waterproof resistance can withstand body pressure;
• 5000 mm - leg pressure;
• 10000 mm - elbow pressure

Check whether the seams of the tent bottom are welded; Pay special attention to the corner seams.

It is not easy to glue them correctly; many companies save on this operation. Even if the fabric is sufficiently waterproof, water can penetrate through the holes from the sewing needles. You can sleep in a puddle.

ARC

An important component of tents is the poles.

Tent poles are made:

• made of fiberglass and epoxy resins (denoted in the descriptions as fiberglass or fiberglass);
• from aluminum alloys of various qualities.

The most common brands are:

• 7075, 7001 made of AMG (aluminum-magnesium alloy) made in Korea, they are used in quality tents;
• 7178, 6061 - require anodizing;
• Russian grades D16T and V95 cannot withstand competition and are gradually being replaced by other alloys.

In addition to the grade of the alloy, serious companies indicate its “hardness”. The designations 7075-T9 and 7075-T6 differ in that in the first case a more durable alloy is used: poles made from such an alloy are used by the most famous tent companies.

Fiberglass is heavier and less durable (service life is 2-5 years), but it also has a number of advantages:

• no residual deformation;
• high strength and elasticity;
• low price.

Fiberglass is approximately 1.5 times heavier than aluminum alloys. In addition, it does not tolerate large temperature changes and cannot be repaired.

If such an arc breaks, you need to look for a new one. Aluminum arches can be repaired while traveling.

The joints of the arcs are also different. The inner sleeve of a smaller diameter can be attached to the arch using punching or glue. Sometimes the articulation of the arches is carried out by flaring.

Minimum play and maximum connection strength for arches with a glued adapter.

ACCESSORIES

But the most important thing is the little things! Imagine your tent falling apart at the seams at night in heavy rain. Or the pegs were torn out and the tent was carried into the abyss. Or you died from insect bites.

That's why:

• The threads must be stronger than the fabric, not rot or collapse under the influence of sunlight.
• The eyelets should be brass, not iron (this area of ​​the tent is always damp).
• The zippers are extremely reliable (trust the Japanese brand YKK).
• Mosquito net - with small cells.
• Power plastic fittings are reliable (trust Duraflex or Nexus).
• The slings are light and durable. They should fit easily through the adjustment buckles.
• Cords for storm guy ropes are strong and thin, as well as visible in the dark and during the day.
• The pegs are light and durable, not bendable. It is advisable that they do not rotate in the ground, i.e. would not have a round profile.
• The seams on the awning and the bottom of the tent must be well welded (taped).
  This can only be done with expensive equipment, choosing the right temperature, pressure and sizing speed.

In St. Petersburg you can buy tents at sale prices, just click on the desired tent:

How to choose a camping tent? Among the huge variety of different shapes, sizes, capacity and water resistance, you want not to get lost and choose the one that is best suited for your trip. In order not to make a mistake and not to regret making a hasty choice during a hike, far from civilization, it is worth spending a few minutes and carefully studying the presented tents based on several factors. So which is the best tent? Let's try to figure it out point by point and make the right choice.

Tourist tents today are quite widely represented on the market and differ from each other in both operational characteristics, and by price range. Below are a number of considerations that will help you navigate and make the best decision.

Manufacturer. Tourist and camping tents from well-known manufacturers are more expensive than the average, but we should not forget that such companies value their name and therefore cannot afford to offer the buyer low-quality products. Brand reputation is a guarantee of product quality and reliability. After all, your safety depends on the quality of your equipment!