Chianti wine route. Traveling through Tuscany. Sights of Florence and what to see in the surrounding area. Auto route for a two-day trip through Northern Tuscany. Wine and food route of Monteregio di Massa Marittima
Let's talk about an amazing journey through northern Tuscany, through the Chianti Valley, through the blessed land of winemakers. Olive groves, vineyards, emerald grass of the hills, ancient fortresses and castles - the surroundings of Florence, the main city of the Renaissance, are rich in this. Cities where the Medici ruled, where Michelangelo and Leonardo lived and worked. So, Travel to Tuscany.
Coat of arms of Florence
Let's start with the capital. As you might have guessed, Florence is my favorite city. It is unique and beautiful.
The coat of arms of Florence features a scarlet iris. For more than 50 years, every year gardeners throughout Tuscany, other regions and countries hold a festival-competition for growing such scarlet iris. And so far... yes, no one has managed to grow this pure scarlet flower. Like this…)
The main attractions are within easy reach. And if you arrived by train - and are planning to travel further by train - then you can’t think of a better place to stay.
A list of the main attractions can be found in any guide to Florence.
Florence. Duomo. Santa Maria del Fiorre
Of course, this is, first of all, the largest and most amazing Duomo ( Cathedral) Santa Maria del Fiorre. It is huge, very beautiful, decorated with green stone, has a dome design unique for its time, luxurious on the outside as well as on the inside. Next to it, made in the same style, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, in which all the infants of Florence were baptized. Unique gilded gate. Also nearby is Giotto's bell tower, also part of this complex and decorated with the same green stone. Briefly speaking, definitely watch.
Piazza della Signoria. Loggia Lanza
Not far from it there is a very picturesque Piazza della Signoria, on which stands the building of the Palazzo Vecchio, in which the city council met. On the square, under open air, statues of famous and not so famous masters are placed. There are especially many of them in the Lanza loggia. Very beautiful, there is even a copy of David (the original is presented in the Academy Museum - nearby). The place is very soulful, permeated with an atmosphere of art and, in my opinion, is the personification of the whole of Florence - the city of craftsmen, artists and artisans. On weekend evenings, all kinds of concerts take place on the square. On ordinary days it is also very crowded, with a lot of young people. Lots of street musicians. The atmosphere is very romantic. Must watch.
Uffizi Gallery.
Located nearby Uffizi Gallery- a famous museum that is included in the mandatory tourist program and is one of the most visited museums in the world. There really is something to see for lovers of painting, tapestries, frescoes, sculpture and miniatures. The luxury and wealth of the Renaissance are represented by the wonderful works of great masters. Must watch for art loversspecifically.
David. Michelangelo. Academy Museum. Florence
Also for art lovers we can recommend visiting Academy Museum, which is located near Santa Maria del Fiorre. The Academy of Fine Arts of Florence, which is almost 500 years old, united all the art schools and workshops of the city and was the most authoritative educational institution. This wonderful museum is also one of the most visited museums in the world. The mere fact that the original “David” by Michelangelo is presented there allows us to consider it a must visit. The collections of this museum are considered one of the most valuable in Italy - a country by no means poor in museums.
Ponte Vecchio
Walking from Piazza della Signoria past the Uffizzi Gallery we find ourselves on the Arno embankment. We look to the right and see the famous Ponte Vecchio bridge. It is very unusual and resembles the bridge from the film “Perfume”. It contains mainly jewelry stores. Be sure to take photos.
Central Market (Mercato Centrale)
Also a must visit Mercato Centrale(central market), which sells exceptionally delicious cheeses, prosciutto and other delicacies. Fruits, vegetables, deli meats. Be sure to try it. And of course, Chianti. Be sure to buy a bottle or two and taste it in the evening. I should note that if you are not a big specialist, not a gourmet and not a sommelier, then Chianti for about 10-12 euros, in my opinion and taste, is in no way inferior to, for example, Brunello di Montalcino, the most publicized Wine of Tuscany, the cost of which starts from about forty euros.
The bags are quite nice
Not far from the central market there are shopping arcades , where in addition to the usual tourist tinsel, magnets, figurines, souvenirs, T-shirts, you can buy very good leather goods for reasonable money: bags, belts, shoes, locally produced clothes. A must visit for women. Sorry, guys...) There you can sit down in a street cafe nearby and experience Chianti. Icy Chianti on a hot summer day...beautiful.
The Basilicas of Santa Croce and Santa Maria Novella are interesting for their Gothic features, decoration and, of course, interior decoration. For fans it will be very interesting visit these ancient shrines. In Santa Maria Novella (near the central station, which took its name from this basilica) the action of Boccaccio’s “Decameron” began.
Boboli Gardens. Florence
After walking around the city, examining its countless basilicas, cathedrals and palaces, take a look at Boboli Gardens– a Florentine masterpiece garden art, with shaded paths, lakes, amazingly beautiful grottoes, sculptures of great masters, benches by the water. The singing of birds, clean air and the panorama of the city from the top of the hill will not leave you indifferent.
Buanaleti Grotto. Boboli Gardens. Florence
Located next to the Palazzo Pitti, the residence of Duke Cosimo I de' Medici, who did much to enhance the greatness and glory of Florence, the gardens have been favorite place for holding all kinds of receptions and concerts. It was here that opera singing was first presented, and various exhibitions and festivals were held. Give such a gift to your feet, tired of walking along the great streets of the great city and your soul, rapturously frozen by the touch of beauty - organize a picnic in this blessed park.
Cool and breezy in the hills of the Boboli Gardens
Sitting on a bench or on the grass, you can have a snack, discuss what you saw and make plans for the coming days in this wonderful country. The sale of food and drinks in the park is prohibited, so take everything you need with you))). I think that visiting the Boboli Gardens and a little taking a break is a must!
And you should definitely go to Michelangelo's hill. It offers a breathtaking view of the city. Of course, the majestic dome of the Duomo dominates the panorama, and the Ponte Vecchio is clearly visible. In the center of Michelangelo's piazzale (small square) stands another copy of David. There are always a lot of people there. Florentine weddings come there. There are several restaurants there. I recommend arriving an hour before sunset. Grab a table overlooking the city and enjoy Italian cuisine, live music and views of the beautiful city. Must see and take photos.
Michelangelo's Hill. Sunset
Florence – amazing city, and if you get there in good company and good weather, I guarantee that he will will remain in your heart forever. Well, for lovers of tasty and healthy food, I hasten to inform you that the Florentine steak is incomparable!!! (for those who like medium…and less-rare).
Yes... I almost forgot, in Florence the house where Dante lived and worked has been preserved. We somehow came across it while walking along the narrow central streets. Well home. Well, Dante Alighieri lived in it. Almost 500 years ago. Well, in general... there you go. I don’t know if ardent admirers of the work of this respected Florentine, who created “ Divine Comedy”, but I was not at all interested in visiting his house-museum. If anyone is interested, it's there.)
Traveling through Tuscany
Of course, this ancient region is famous not only for the beautiful Florence. Tuscany, and in particular northern Tuscany, is very rich in tourist and not so tourist attractions, castles, ancient towns, distilleries and oil mills, places that are interesting and pleasant to visit.
Not far from Stazzione Centrale (you and I already know what it is -Central Station) you can order several Russian-language excursions through the most picturesque surroundings of Florence. through Northern and Southern Tuscany, with a visit to the famous villages of Montalcino and Montepulciano - the centers of winemaking in Tuscany.
I recommend take one of these excursions only if if it is not possible to rent a car(at least for a day) or you don’t like reading guidebooks(. If these restrictions are not for you, then I consider it obligatory to rent a car (pre-booked - about the subtleties) and enjoy a trip along the following route (for example):
Florence-San Gimignano-Monteriggioni-Siena-Volterra-Pisa-Lucca-Florence
This trip must be organized as a two-day trip, with leisurely transfers, lunches and dinners, and an overnight stay, for example, in Siena or Volterra. And under no circumstances should you try to cover all these wonderful cities in one day. Otherwise, it will turn out no better than on a bus with a screaming and always urging guide...
Our route does not pretend to be exclusive and is given only as an illustration of the idea of conquering the Chianti Valley and Tuscany by car.
We have no doubt that the route you create yourself will be the most picturesque, interesting and memorable. This is why we are writing to you about Italy. Yes, yes
San Gimignano
Tuscany. San Gimignano. city of a hundred towers.
For a leisurely exploration of the city with a light snack and purchasing souvenirs – 1 hour.
In fact, I think, 14 towers of this Tuscan Manhattan have survived. Previously, there were much more of them, they were built by noble residents. The higher the tower, the steeper it is. In short, they measured it. A very quaint town. It stands on a hill, like almost all towns in Tuscany. This is explained by the fact that they used to attack each other like crazy several times a year. Siena, Volterra, Florence - large city-states sought to seize as much land as possible and fought with each other for influence. Therefore, they sought to found cities on hills, so that it would be more convenient to repel numerous attacks from scoundrels from the fortress walls.
Vernaccio, a wine typical of San Gimignano, is a must-try for lovers of dry white wine. they say it is incomparable and admired many famous people. Even Louis the Black and Lorenzo the Magnificent (to be honest, I don’t know who they are)
At the entrance to San Gimignano you must stop and take a photo with general plan San Gimignano. Only from afar is it possible to convey the color of this amazing place. Inside the city, naturally, it will not be possible to photograph all the towers at once.
If you are traveling by bus, ask the guide to make such a stop, but he will probably suggest it himself.
Monteriggioni
Tuscany. Monteriggioni
For a leisurely exploration of the city with coffee main square and purchasing souvenirs – 20 min.
One of the few completely preserved fortresses in Tuscany, with all residential and utility buildings, a church and several restaurants and cafes. The spirit of the Middle Ages permeates everything here. A very unusual and memorable place. 14 almost completely preserved towers on the fortress walls excite the imagination of tourists. Even Dante was fascinated and impressed by these walls and mentioned them in his poems, so to speak. I think you should definitely come here.
Sienna
Piazza del Campo. Sienna
A leisurely exploration of the city center takes 1-1.5 hours.
Amazing city, amazing people, customs. legends. Read more about it before you go. I personally have never seen or heard of such a city anywhere else. The whole city, all its residents, young and old, live in anticipation of the races. They are called Palio and are held in the main square of the city - Piazza del Campo. This is the main event in the life of any resident of Siena. Races are held twice a year, and during the rest of the time, all people prepare to participate in these most important competitions for “their” horse.
Contrada Dragon flag. Sienna
The city is divided into seventeen so-called contradas - groups, “families”, districts - I don’t know what to call them correctly. Each has its own coat of arms, its own customs, one might even say, its own culture. It’s not that they are at enmity with each other, but it’s difficult to call their relationship friendship. Fierce rivalry is probably more correct. It goes so far as to categorically discourage marriages between representatives of different contrades.
Blessing of the rider and horse before the race
As I already said, everyone in Siena is constantly preparing for the Palio. For them it is a matter of honor - the meaning of life. They raise money to raise, feed and train their horse and rider with a whole contrada. They prepare for horse racing, sew clothes, flags, compose chants, in short, they wait and hope that their horse will win. And before the race, the horse and rider - these future heroes, and perhaps quite the opposite, even receive a blessing in the main parish of their contrada!
Sienna. Piazza del Campo. Palio
The race itself is very fleeting, but very colorful and dynamic. In total you need to ride three circles around the square. It is only 1 kilometer and takes no more than one and a half to two minutes. But there is so much passion, fire, excitement and drama in these seconds. Sometimes, in the heat of the chase, riders fall from their horses and receive very serious injuries. But this only adds fire to an already very “explosive” competition. After the races, festive processions are held throughout the city praising the winners.
Sienna. Piazza del Campo. The whole city gathered in the square
The most shameful thing is to take second place. The rider who came second, together with the innocent animal, is subjected to ridicule, sometimes very harshly. Until the next race, this contrada becomes a pariah. But this fact cannot break the proud residents of Siena and they approach the new Palio with a new horse, a new rider and new hopes for victory! And this has been going on for more than 400 years and will continue forever. The inhabitants of glorious Siena are sure of this).
Very unusual, colorful and interesting city. And if you are lucky enough to visit it on July 2 or August 16, don’t hesitate to visit this amazing spectacle. Palio in Piazza del Campo.
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Siena (Siena) - Chiantigiana (Chiantigiana) - Firenze (Florence) - 70 km + 0 euro
The time has come to say goodbye to Siena. We never saw our Dionisio again. They left him a farewell note with thanks and the keys on the table. The door was slammed.
Then our path lay to Florence, but not along the highway, but along one of the most beautiful roads Chiantigiana. On the map it has №222
. The plan was to visit a couple of towns along the way and, of course, wineries fattorie and buy real Chianti Gallo Nero.
There is no point in talking about the beauty of this road. Some sources write that this is the most beautiful road, at least Italy and even Europe. I’m not ready to agree with this, there are more beautiful ones. But the fact that she has a unique charm is undeniable.
About 26 km from Siena, we stopped in a picturesque town Castellina in Chianti. Walked along the covered walkway Via delle Volte. It is small but charming, with many museums, designer shops and leather shops.
From the passage we went into the city center. 
In the city center there is a magnificent restored castle. Restored so much that its antiquity is not felt. 
Local wine and olive oil are sold on every corner, for example Bottega del Vino Gallo Nero (Via della Roca 10).
But we decided not to buy anything in the cities; we wanted to be as close to natural as possible, that is, we decided to stop by some farm. There were a lot of signs along the way "VenditaDiretta"(direct sales). We turned to one of these. We drove for quite a long time along a terribly dusty country road among fields and already doubted that we would meet at least some kind of civilization. And finally, we unexpectedly arrived at some small village and a rather pleasant building, where we understood that the farm sales department was located Santo Stefano. We were greeted by a friendly young girl and man. They told us about their wine and let us taste everything, including olive oil, for which we were served pieces of delicious bread. 
Of course, we gladly bought Chianti, white wine and oil. By the way, the Russians haven’t visited them yet. They say that mainly the French, English and Germans come.
Then we went to Greve in Chianti. A wine festival is held here. Somehow the town was not impressive and we moved on to the castle Verrazzano (Castello di Verrazzanj), which is 4 km from Greve in Chianti. The castle also sells local wines and olive oil. The castle itself can only be accessed with a guided tour and certain time. We photographed him from behind bars, wandered around the area and admired the magnificent views of the Tuscan hills. 
Not getting there Strada in Chianti there is also a castle Castello di Mugnana, the best preserved medieval castle, around which there is also a lot of fattorie, but we did not go there, but turned into another farm Tenuta Poggio ai Mandorli.
An auntie met us, took us to the cellar, listed the wines and offered to try one of our choice, although we couldn’t try expensive wines (more than 10 euros). We were surprised by this situation, but since we didn’t intend to go anywhere else, we bought a couple of bottles from her. But among themselves they called her a greedy aunt. Apparently the proximity to Florence had an effect, and she was not at all surprised by Russian visitors, she says that they stop by often. That's where the dog is buried! She probably tasted it well.
From this farm we went straight to Florence. I must say that on this day, despite the short mileage, we were completely out of the loop. time schedule and arrived in Florence in the evening, closer to 5 pm.
We immediately stopped by Piazzale Michelangelo, which offers a beautiful view of the city with the bulk of the Duomo and the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio, the Arno River with a series of bridges, including the Ponte Vecchio. 
There is a huge free parking lot on the square, with a lot of cars. And it was still very hot - 41 degrees! On open area on the hill it is an unbearable heat. 
It was getting close to evening and it was time to check in. We booked a hotel "Hotel City" (Via Sant'Antonio, 18), which is located in very convenient location, near the railway station, the Medici Chapel, a few steps from the Duomo. Reviews about the hotel were excellent, which was confirmed in reality. A cozy homely room of two rooms, with air conditioning, windows overlooking a quiet courtyard, an excellent bathroom with everything you need, a good breakfast and wonderful staff cost us 185 euros per night + 3 euros per person tourist tax. Parking is paid, the hotel has its own parking spaces at the station, it costs 25 euros/day, you can leave and enter as many times as you like. This is normal for the center of Florence during peak season. And for us, exhausted from the Siena Palio, everything seemed like paradise.
But we had to get to the hotel. It was difficult. We always ended up on ZTL. They circled, circled, spat and drove into the zone, parked not far from the hotel. But it turned out everything was fine. They took us to some database and told us that since we live here, we won’t get fined. This is how it turned out later.
We quickly settled in and went for a walk. Since Katya and Victor had already been in Florence the previous day, we each ran off in our own directions.
First I went to Churches of Santa Maria Novella which was designed and built by Dominican monks. Work on the construction of the church was completed in the second half of the 14th century. The marble façade of the church, designed by Leon Battista Alberti, dates from 1456–1470.
The most interesting detail in the interior of the church are the pylons in the form of a bunch of columns on which pointed arched vaults rest. The Church of Santa Maria Novella houses large number works of Florentine art of the 14th–16th centuries by Vasari, Ghirlandaio, Brunelleschi, Giuliano da Sangallo, Ghiberti and other masters. 
From this church I went to the Duomo Cathedral - Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.
I immediately bought a ticket to Baptistery of St. John the Baptist (Battistero di San Giovanni) for 5 euros to see the famous dome of the Byzantine mosaic of the 13th century and the equally famous doors, the panels of which were created by Andrea Pisano and Lorenzo Ghiberti based on biblical scenes. 
After that I went for a walk. How to describe your feelings that arose as a result of the walk? And I had a feeling of confusion. I wandered the streets and realized that I was confused and... depressed. For the first time, the city did not let me into its soul. It's as if the city has its own protective shell, and I'm outside it. I sat down on the steps of some building and wanted to cry, or even better, to go home. I walked a couple more steps and met Katya and Victor. We walked until dark, but the feeling that you were a stranger did not disappear. Katya gave a good definition of Florence: Florence is a block. 
The next day, for the 12th day, we bought tickets to the Uffizi Gallery. We bought it in advance through the website for 11 euros + 4 euros reservation. Therefore, in the morning I had to climb onto the Duomo dome, visit the Duomo itself, then get ready, load my things into the car and run to the gallery.
In the morning the streets were still deserted, but at the entrance to the dome there was already a long line that was moving quite quickly. The ticket cost 8 euros. 
In order to enter the cathedral itself, you need to go down from the dome, go outside and stand in line again. There is no need to be afraid of the queue, it moves quickly. Admission is free.
The dimensions of the Duomo are amazing: 153 meters long and 90 meters wide. Today, Santa Maria del Fiori is the fourth largest cathedral in the world, behind only St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican, St. Paul's Cathedral in London and the Duomo in Milan.
The Cathedral has a museum containing two priceless paintings - Michelangelo's Lamentation of Christ and Donatello's Mary Magdalene.
Despite the huge number of people in the cathedral, I still had great pleasure and looked around it with interest. 
We quickly checked out of the hotel and went to the Uffizi Gallery on foot. Walking through Via De' Tornabuoni, we looked into the church, which is located at the intersection with the street Via degli Agli. We noticed this church in the evening, but it was closed. Why she attracted our attention, I don’t know; she didn’t differ in anything remarkable in appearance. Moreover, it is ignored by guidebooks and tourist maps at best, it is simply marked with a cross without a name. So we went into it without knowing the name. Now I already know what it is Church of Saints Michael and Gaetano (Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano). Church of the 16th century. We were amazed by the interior decoration using magnificent textiles, which turned out to be from the 18th century.
I highly recommend visiting it. Only here did I feel that Florence had opened its door to me a little. 
The gallery, as warned, was huge queue. But for those who have paid tickets, there is a separate entrance, completely without a queue. We spent about 3 hours in the gallery. Among the treasures stored in the Uffizi Gallery are masterpieces by Giotto, Caravaggio, Titian, Leonardo da Vinci, Rubens, and Perugdio. Only in this Florentine museum can you see Michelangelo's famous work depicting the Holy Family, as well as works by Raphael, "The Adoration of the Magi" by Gentile da Fabiano, "The Birth of Venus" and "Spring" by Botticelli. The best works of the greatest masters of the Renaissance - that's what the Uffizi Gallery is today. We saw all this, trying with all our might not to fall into a stupor from culture shock.
The gallery windows also open beautiful views on the Arno River and Ponte Vecchio, there are places to relax. 
This is the end of my first acquaintance with Florence. I concluded for myself that Florence is one of the cities that needs to be seen from the inside, where there is interesting architecture, but the main treasures are inside museums, cathedrals, and galleries.
There are several places that you not only want to see, but also in which you definitely want to live, and not in a hotel, but definitely in a house, and if the house is old, the view from the window is wonderful. One of these places is Tuscany, more specifically – Chianti Valley. This region is strongly associated with Florence, Pisa, Siena, San Gimignano, beautiful cities, where the great architects of the Cinquecento and other eras worked, but there is another Tuscany - rural, farming, where the main characters are vines, olive trees and an amazing, incomparable landscape. Hills, valleys... and again hills and valleys, and so on ad infinitum, stretching into the azure sky.
So, no overnight stays in Florence, only the Chianti Valley and only apartments in a beautiful old house. We have already had to book houses in Provence through the http://airbnb.ru/ and http://www.homeaway.com/ systems. I talked about this experience in detail in my article Our home in Provence. But it was August, super high season, and there were a lot of problems, but we arrived in Tuscany at the beginning of April and, as our hostess said, we were the second people to stay with her this season. Therefore, this time we simply booked through www.booking.com without any problems. The problem was only in the best choice, and, fortunately, there was no mistake - the farm turned out to be simply magnificent http://www.agriturismosanleo.it/.
According to the owner, the oldest buildings were more than 1000 years old. Now everything has been restored and prepared to welcome tourists. All apartments have their own entrance, a terrace with a table and chairs in the fresh air, each has a kitchen with a stove, dishwasher and refrigerator. Inside there are one or more bedrooms, air conditioning throughout, but the decor retains the style and spirit of a farmhouse. There are only 9 apartments and they are designed for different numbers of guests (from 2 to 6).
There is a swimming pool, but it was not open yet at the beginning of April. There are olive trees all around, some of them very old.
The farm specializes in the production of olive oil. The breakfast room has a winter garden and old olive processing equipment. You can book a tour during which you will be shown the estate itself and the modern oil production (45 minutes, 10 euros per person). The hostess speaks English.
Breakfast is not included in the price, but you can order it separately. Sweet Italian will cost seven euros, but by paying another five euros, you will get prosciutto, cheese, boiled eggs or scrambled eggs, olives. Everything is of very high quality and there is a lot of everything, but the price of 12 euros for breakfast is somewhat annoying, considering that the room has a kitchen, and the nearest supermarket is 5 km away.
The Internet is only possible in the “under the door of the owner’s office” option, but maybe this is for the better.
On Saturdays there is a dinner at the farm. For 25 euros you are offered a variety of snacks, chicken from your own poultry house and red house wine. But we took appetizers, wine and Florentine steak (Bistecca alla fiorentina) - a huge piece of beef (1 kg) for two. It turned out to be 35 euros per person. Everything is very tasty and very homely.
Result: Everything is just wonderful! This is how you should live in Tuscany – closer to nature. The only thing you need to be prepared for is that there are very winding and narrow roads here, constant ups and downs. I would advise those who get motion sickness to come to the Chianti Valley with a supply of anti-sickness medications.
If you want to go on a trip to Europe organized by me, look at the current offers for joining groups on my website www.dmitrysokolov.ru
Dmitry Sokolov
- Unusual travels to Europe http://www.sokolovcz.ru/
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- My travel blog
One way to love and understand wine is to travel through a wine region. It is through landscapes, smells, local gastronomy, through acquaintance with winemakers that it is easiest for many, including me, to understand and discover wine. Therefore, I suggest starting your acquaintance with Chianti, one of the symbols of Italian winemaking, with the landscapes and cities of the Tuscan region of Chianti.
1. I'll start with the classic types. Chianti is one of the most popular Italian regions among tourists, whose hills and cypress trees have been reproduced many times on hundreds of postcards. However, this is not a reason to admire them again, especially since these places are downright magically photogenic.
8. The entire Chianti region in one photo - vineyards, olive groves, medieval towns.
10. Every time I open a bottle of Chianti, I will remember the malachite floods of the hills and the vineyards stretching into the distance. These trips do more to understand wine than all the classes and tastings combined.
12. Do you know why roses are planted in vineyards? Not so much for beauty, but for benefit: they are much more sensitive to disease than the vine. If the roses are not doing well, the winemaker understands that something has gone wrong, and therefore has the opportunity to correct the situation.
16. This is the view from the terrace of the house in the winery Tenuta di Bibbiano , where I stayed. One morning in these thickets I spotted a fawn! The story about the farm and its wines lies ahead.
18. The first signs of autumn. The trip took place at the end of September, the weather was summer, and therefore there was little reminder of the approaching yellow-orange season. Now in Tuscany, I think it’s a million times more beautiful!
19. At the end of September, the town of Panzano in Chianti hosts the wine festival Vino al Vino, which I couldn’t help but stop by! The photo shows the moment when you can no longer hold the glass with your hands, you have to help yourself with your feet. ;)
20. How is the festival organized? For 16 euros you get a glass and a bag for it, which you saw in the previous photo, a booklet with a story about the producers and a list of wines available for order. Arm yourself with a pen and start walking from stand to stand, testing and making notes.
21. Each winemaker presents a full line - usually 4-5 wines. I think you can try the wines of all participants during the three days that the festival lasts. If time is short, then you can take a shortcut: for example, I decided to try not classic Chianti, but more interesting and usually more expensive samples. I didn’t buy anything - they still only sell wine in 6 bottles.
22. Winemakers, as you can see, are advanced - they use drop stops (drop eliminators). I talked about them in. The cockerel on the neck is a symbol of the consortium of Chianti Classico producers; we will return to it in a separate post.
24. Wine critics look like this.
25. And their future readers - so.
26. The festival, of course, is the right place to get acquainted with local products.
27. For the first time in my life I came across a pie with grapes! The traditional Chianti dish is called schiaccia con l"uva, schiaccia con l"uva. I tried both options: I liked the one where the grapes were dark and fresh, although the most delicious was the schiaccia, which I had eaten a few days before in Castellina in Chianti. I’ll tell you more about this cute town and its gastronomic traditions. I think you understand that we have more than one post ahead dedicated to the Chianti region, its wines and gastronomy.
29. Here, in Panzano, is the restaurant of star butcher Dario Cecchini. Unfortunately, during the trip I was slightly behind schedule and did not get there, despite the reservation. I heard wonderful reviews from friends! Have you been there?
30. I quickly ran away from the festival - Panzano is a tiny town, the winemakers' pavilions occupied one of its miniature squares. It was inconvenient to push around with a glass in hand and a camera at the ready, so we decided to go further to get acquainted with wine, to Greve in Chianti. If you follow my route, don’t miss this place, Antica Macelleria Falorni.
31. Good choice wines both by the glass and by the bottle, sensible appetizers, excellent tartars and other meat dishes - I was satisfied. sit on central square and it was very pleasant to look around, despite the almost complete absence of Italians in the environment. And this is, perhaps, one of the main features of Chianti - it is simply incredible, unthinkable tourist destination. Even remote villages have an English menu! And even in remote restaurants found somewhere along the road, you will certainly come across a company of American tourists. I’ve been to many places in Italy, but nowhere, except perhaps Rome, have I seen so many tourists.
32. More southern part Tuscany, where I was in July, seemed to me a more authentic place, where you can feel the rhythm of Italian life, its unhurried flow, where the signs of everyday life or the quirks of the locals are in plain sight, and not hidden behind tourist options. Therefore, if you go to Tuscany, I advise you not to stop only at Chianti, but also to go further, towards Rome, for idyllic rural landscapes, for towns like, where you are almost the only tourist, for.
33. Once again, the black rooster is the symbol of Chianti Classico producers.
35. In Greve in Chianti, I met my reader (what a small world!), on whose advice I went to the village of Montefioralle located just above. Such villages in Italy are called borgo. It seems that the flow of life has stopped here - these streets look exactly the same as they looked hundreds of years ago. And only the muttering of the TV, suddenly heard from the half-open window, brings you back to reality.
37. In Montefioralle I met a gang of truffle cheese lovers. Even cats in Chianti are gourmets!
39. But I accidentally woke up this child - he was sleeping in the sun by a wine barrel in Panzano. That very moment when they picked you up and forgot to wake you up.
In the following posts, we will visit two wineries that are completely different from each other, stroll through the Saturday market, understand the intricacies of Chianti production, and visit a beautiful Tuscan house worthy of publication in Architectural Digest.
Chianti Classico is the region between Florence and Siena, which includes the villages of Greve, Panzano, Gaiole, Radda and Castellina.
Greve in Chianti
Greve in Chianti / Shutterstock.com
Our journey cannot fail to begin in Greve, the entrance gate of the Chianti region. This lively town is famous for its quaint triangular square, where local farmers have sold their wares since the Middle Ages. The square is framed by porticoes on all three sides; they provide shelter from the heat or rain while shopping. In the center stands a monument to Giovanni da Verazzano, the designer of New York Harbor. In a narrow part of the square is the medieval church of Santa Croce, which houses several masterpieces of ecclesiastical art, including the triptych "Our Lady and Saints" by Bicci di Lorenzo.
In Grezzo you can taste traditional Chianti products and wines. Under the porticoes you will find local artisan shops, wine bars and restaurants. Don't miss the Falorni butcher shop, which offers a range of local delicacies. A stone's throw from the square is the Wine Museum.
Panzzano in Chianti
Panzzano in Chianti / Shutterstock.com
The densely populated town of Panzano is located a few kilometers from Greve. Since the 12th century, Panzano has played an important role in the defense of Florence. Panzano Castle was a strategic point during the wars between Florence and Siena. Traces of the castle are clearly visible in historical center. Nowadays, the center is dominated by the building of the Church of Santa Maria, founded in the 13th century, but significantly rebuilt in the 19th century in the neoclassical style. It is worth taking a walk through the city center, which has preserved the atmosphere of the Middle Ages, and drinking a glass of wine in the central square. Here you will also find many restaurants and wine bars where you can taste local products. Stop by the old butcher shop Cecchini, where they sell the famous Florentine steak.
A little further is the Church of San Leolino, the first mention of which dates back to 982. Despite its Renaissance appearance (an elegant stone portal and arched gallery), its interior has been preserved in its original form, typical of a Romanesque three-nave basilica. Inside you can admire the framed masterpieces of church art by local masters.
Castellina in Chianti
Castellina in Chianti / Shutterstock.com
Moving further towards Siena, you will find yourself in Castellina in Chianti, a town so ancient that its origins are lost in the darkness of centuries. In any case, the tombs in Montecalvario indicate that people lived here already in Etruscan times. Geographical location at the intersection of four districts of the Chianti region, they made the town an important military point, a strategic point between Siena and Florence. Since the period of medieval wars, the Rocca fortress has been preserved here, dominating the central part city, and a covered passage (via delle Volta), crossing the city through. Its windows offer breathtaking views. Walking around the city, you will see many magnificent palazzos that belonged to noble Sienese and Florentines. Don't miss the Church of San Salvatore, rebuilt after the Second World War, which contains a magnificent late 14th-century fresco by an unknown Tuscan artist. It is definitely worth visiting the Archaeological Museum of Chianti Senese, where Etruscan finds from excavations in Montecalvario are kept, to become familiar with the ancient history of this land.
As at other points on the route, here you can taste local wines in one of the many wine shops and try the famous sausages and hams made from local pork.
Radda in Chianti
Radda in Chianti / Shutterstock.com
Leaving Castellina along Via Chiantigina, you find yourself on the SR429 highway, which leads to Radda in Chianti, a town that has retained its medieval charm. The city center - a labyrinth of concentric streets - is still surrounded by an ancient wall. The architectural center of the city is considered to be the Palazzo di Podesta and the Romanesque church of San Niccolo. The captain of the Chianti League met in the palazzo for four centuries, as is recalled by the numerous coats of arms on its façade. On the edge of the city you will find the ancient Franciscan monastery of Santa Maria in Prato.
Here it is pleasant to wander through the alleys of the center, where magnificent views of the valley surrounding the city open up every now and then. A glass of wine with panino will help you restore your strength.
Near Radda there is the ancient fortified town of Castello di Volpaia. The fortress is built of dark sandstone, which makes it different from other fortifications in the Chianti region. Although the wars between Florence and Siena did not pass without a trace for him, the massive main tower and one of the small towers have survived to this day. Don't forget to visit the former 14th-century church of Commenda di San Efrosino, which now houses a wine library. This is where you should taste the famous local wines.
Gaiole in Chianti
Gaiole in Chianti / Shutterstock.com
Not far from Radda is the town of Gaiole in Chianti, founded during the Middle Ages. Thanks to its position halfway between Chianti and Valdarno, it became a trading platform where local feudal lords sold their products. In our time, Gaiole has not lost its significance, being an important tourist center. There are many hotels and restaurants of the “agritourism” category, wine shops and farms, the owners of which will be happy to offer you their products and hospitality. In the vicinity of Gaiole, castles and fortresses have been preserved, for example Castello di Vertine, Castello di Meleto, Pieve di Spaltenna. You can stay overnight everywhere and, of course, taste local products.
