Wonders of the Ukok plateau: how and why to go to one of the most inaccessible places in Altai. Horseback expedition to the sacred plateau of Ukok Tours to Ukok

Duration: 9 days

The mysterious Ukok plateau holds many mysteries of our ancestors.

For many hundreds of years, the Ukok plateau has been the intersection of several ancient cultures.

The Scythians, Huns and Turks who inhabited these places left

hundreds of stone sculptures, mounds and rock paintings. Many of them have survived to this day.

A trip to the Ukok plateau is a great opportunity to see it all with your own eyes and experience the spirit of adventure.

Tour program

On the first day of our auto tour of the Altai Mountains, we will meet in Barnaul and drive along the Chuysky tract through the entire Altai to the village of Kosh-Agach.

The next day we will go to the Teply Klyuch pass. The height of the pass is more than 3000 meters above sea level. From the pass you can see the Ukok plateau.

The next two days we will have a short trekking trip to the Alakha glaciers. It starts with them main river plateau - Ak-Alakha river. Its name translates as “white palms” in honor of the two symmetrical glaciers from which it originates. We will spend the night near Lake Beloye.

At the very foot of the glaciers.

On this day, the northern part of the Ukok plateau - the valley of the Kalguta River - awaits us. From here there are stunning views of the many rivers and lakes that cover the plateau.

And of course - the main peak of the plateau - Mount Tavan-Bogdo-Ola. This is the second highest peak in Altai after Belukha.

On the seventh day we leave the Ukok plateau.

But there's still a lot to come interesting valleys rivers and passes.

On this day we will visit best places Chui and Kurai steppes. We will drive along the valley of the Chuya and Katun rivers. And we will stop for the night at the Seminsky pass.

The pass is known for its relict cedar taiga. Centuries-old cedars that grow on the pass fill the air with special coniferous freshness.

Before lunch, a radial walk to the neighboring peaks of the pass, from where panoramas of the relict cedar taiga of Altai open.

After lunch we head to Barnaul. Upon arrival, we check into a hotel.

Photo album of the tour "Ukok Plateau"

Tour to the Ukok Plateau

The price includes:

Transfer throughout the route

Accommodation at tourist centers and hotels (except for accommodation in the city of Barnaul)

Three meals a day and chef services

Medical insurance

Accompanying guide

Photography workshops

Food for all group members is provided by a professional chef. He will take care of early breakfasts, field lunches and dinners at hotels. You won’t need to think about what to cook, how to get to the cafe on time, or look for suitable food along the route. The chef will take care of this. A kitchen based on fresh and natural products will always delight you.

The price does not include:

Transfer and flight to Barnaul from your city

Alcohol and cigarettes

Hotel accommodation in Barnaul

Wide-angle lenses with medium focal lengths and telephoto lenses.

Spare batteries

Filters (polarizing, gradient, ND)

Equipment:

In addition to summer clothes (shorts, T-shirt and flip-flops), you also need to take warm winter clothes (pants, down jacket, hat and boots/sneakers). During the day the air temperature can rise to +25. And at night and in the evenings it can drop to -5 C.

Wind and waterproof pants

Insulated, winter or ski pants

Wind and waterproof jacket

Fleece jacket or Polartek

Warm socks

Trekking shoes

Change of shoes (slippers and sneakers) and preferably a second pair of shoes, in case the first ones get wet.

Apply for participation

or ask a question

Ukok Plateau - Altai

Why Ukok? For me, this choice turned out to be accidental. But I am grateful to fate for throwing me to the very edge of Russia, to the border with China, Mongolia and Kazakhstan. Of course, it’s better to go on a bike trip on your tested bike: you know what to expect from it. But taking it from Moscow by plane is not the most convenient option, so I rented a bike in Barnaul.

To get from there to Ukok, we had to travel almost two days along the Chuysky tract in Vanya’s minibus. Along the way, we registered our trip with the Gorno-Altai Rescue Service of the Ministry of Emergency Situations. It's big enough populated area Republic of Altai, but it is difficult to understand what life here is based on now. Apparently, the climate here is harsh, surrounded by the Chui steppe, which, at first glance, is a lifeless desert with very sparse vegetation. And where will it come from if winter temperatures can drop to –60°C, and summer daytime temperatures can rise to +30°C. But this does not mean at all that summer here is hot: the average daily temperature does not exceed +14°C due to sharp changes temperatures day and night.

At the same time, the climate is very dry, with no more than 100 mm of precipitation falling per year. They say that local residents They live off livestock farming, but we rarely came across their herds during our travels. By the way, this is the last settlement before the Ukok plateau. In Kosh-Agach you can replenish supplies and refuel your car. Then we moved southwest through the Chui steppe along a dirt road. At the Soloneshinskaya outpost we passed a document check and entered the territory natural park"Quiet zone of the Ukok plateau." This outpost is the last place from which you can call mobile phone(but the connection here is bad, it’s better to make the necessary calls in Kosh-Agach). Further cellular communication does not work.

The Ukok Plateau is inaccessible and mysterious place, about which there are many legends. Archaeologists have discovered monuments here ancient culture from various eras (mounds, rock paintings...), most of which have survived to our times in good condition. The plateau is rich in rare and unique species of plants and animals, but new discoveries can also be expected due to little knowledge of the local flora and fauna. For Altai people, Ukok is a sacred place. Nicholas Roerich was looking for the gate to the mysterious land of harmony Shambhala in the Altai Mountains, or maybe they are located somewhere on Ukok? By weather conditions Ukok is accessible for cycling only three months a year.

The passes open to snow only in June, July is the warmest month here, and autumn already arrives in August, but at this time the lowest water level in the rivers is observed. …As we approached the start of our cycling route, the weather became worse. Clouds rushed across the sky, from which snow sometimes fell, but so far to the side, not above our heads. We arrived at the Dzhumalinsky springs - the beginning of the active part of the route - on the evening of August 15. Here there are radon sources with relatively warm water. When I was going on a hike, I definitely planned to swim in them. But how cold it turned out here! By dinnertime I was so cold that I had no desire to swim.

But it turned out that the baths were equipped in houses heated by a stove. Ivan highly praised the springs for us, after which Sveta and I plucked up courage and, in the rain, with flashlights, reached the bathhouse. How cool it was! The stove was heated up, like in a bathhouse. I really wanted to stay here for the night. In general, we took a dip in the radon water and warmed up... I note that these springs are considered a holy place among the Altai people, and strict rules are established for visitors: in particular, it is forbidden to speak loudly, wash or wash dishes in the springs. By the way, the keepers of the houses may not have firewood for tourists. There are no trees around, so it is advisable to come here with your own firewood (in principle, you can collect a bundle of firewood in the Chuya Valley, along which the road runs).

You need to go to Ukok itself with a torch. We took a gasoline one, but it did not work well, perhaps due to the thin air. The morning of August 16 turned out to be not much warmer than the evening. Quickly getting ready after hot porridge dispersed the blood throughout the body, and an unbearable desire appeared to immediately rush on the road. The Teply Klyuch pass is considered the highest automobile pass Gorny Altai(2906 m above sea level, height gain from the sources is about 500 m). And if I had not seen with my own eyes the cars on both sides of it, I would never have believed that cars could drive on such roads. But a bicycle has better cross-country ability, especially if you don’t ride it, but push it through mud or uphill.

Which, in fact, is what we did for a significant part of the climb to the pass. The weather was constantly changing, the dazzling sun alternated sharply with showers of rain. But they were short, and therefore did not even have time to cool down the hot travelers. I wanted to take pictures at every step. For some reason, it was here that there was the greatest variety of flowers (forget-me-nots, bluebells, yellow poppies...), which did not at all fit in with the snow glistening on the slopes of the surrounding mountains. Many of the flowers were similar to those I had seen in our strip, but here they were very miniature and seemed so defenseless that it was completely unclear where they got the strength necessary to survive in such harsh conditions.

The closer the pass, the more difficult it was: the climb was large, and we had not yet had time to get into the rhythm of the hike. Danila, however, managed to go and even help Sveta and me, for which we thank him very much. Coming down from the pass was much more fun. Even sometimes my ears were blocked from the height difference, the brakes were squeezed almost to the end, but the speed was still enough to release adrenaline into the blood. This is probably why the first ford (across the Argamdzhi River) did not seem so scary. True, it was scary to take the first step into the water with almost bare feet, but then we got used to it, and the next fords were not at all scary and did not cause any special difficulties. That day we walked and drove a total of 31 km. There was a storm at night. And on the morning of August 17 we woke up in a cloud and in snowdrifts.

What a delight this snow gave me! I had an irrepressible desire to make a snowman. Everyone who woke up joined in its creation. As the cloud left the valley, it became warmer, some were already running in a swimsuit in the snow and managed to rinse off in a mountain river, and others began throwing snowballs. It’s a thrill, I tell you, when you get hit with a tasty lump of snow on your bare back! In general, I am sure that our games and fun showed the firmness of our intentions and warded off bad weather from the Ukok plateau during our stay on it. From that moment on the weather was favorable to us. And I was once again convinced that, in contact with wildlife, you definitely need to maintain composure during the first tests, then everything will turn out just fine.

This time too, Ukok rewarded us in full, demonstrating a panorama of the largest glaciation in the Altai Mountains - the Tabyn-Bogdo-Ula mountain cluster ("five sacred peaks"), free of clouds. By the way, there is a belief that Genghis Khan gave it this name during one of his campaigns... What a fascinating sight it was when the clouds gradually left the peaks sparkling in the sun! This mountain junction was visible to us until we climbed the Akkol pass on August 21. And every time he delighted us with his power and beauty. You begin to respect him even more after learning some details. Firstly, his most high peak Nairamdal is the second highest in Siberia (4374 m). Secondly, on the slopes of Tabyn-Bogdo-Ula, scientists counted 35 glaciers total area about 150 sq. km.

Thirdly, it divides the territory of Russia, China and Mongolia. Fourthly, the watershed line between the Arctic Ocean basin and the drainless basin of the basin runs along it Central Asia. And I saw all this with my own eyes! We saw an equally enchanting picture when descending to the river. Ak-Alahe. Its winding riverbed and lakes in the valley sparkled in the sun like a scattering of precious stones. It’s no wonder that this was discovered here large number ancient mounds, in one of which in 1993 archaeologists found the “Princess of Ukok” (an embalmed mummy of a young woman dating back to the early Iron Age, whose clothes were preserved in good condition, and on certain parts of her body tattoos with ritualistic -magical meaning.

Before we saw the mounds (or rather, what remained of them after the excavations), we began to come across stones of different sizes and shapes along the road. It’s strange, where would they come from here, since the mountains are located quite a distance away? Moreover, it seemed to me that these places have a completely different energy. There was a feeling of some kind of belonging to ancient secret. I really wanted to know who placed the stones in the valley and for what purpose, is there any meaning to this? Well, then we got to the very mound where we found the “princess”. Soon after examining the mounds, we stopped for the night, having covered about 40 km in a day. I note that our path that day almost all the time went along a barbed wire fence (or what was left of it). By the way, on car card This dirt road is built in the Altai Mountains.

In some places she walks through swamps, which get wet in the sun and become impassable for vehicles. It is better to go through such places in the morning, when the ground is still frozen by night frosts. On August 18, we drove no more than 5 km to the next stop, checking in with the border guards at the Bertek outpost along the way. Having set up camp near the river. Kara-Bulak and after checking the maps, we went to lakes Ukok, Kaldzhibunkas and Kaldzhinkul. It is difficult to reach them by bicycle. Even on foot it was not easy to go: the path went through swamps and through thickets of dwarf birch, we crossed quite a lot high ridges in search of a vantage point from which we could see these lakes. There were many more of them than we expected; from above we saw whole scatterings of reservoirs of various sizes.

They turned out to be inhabited. So, on Lake Ukok we saw a backwater in which, upon our appearance, the water seemed to boil from the bustle of grayling fry. By scooping up water from these puddles with your palm, you could catch several tiny fish at once. On the way back, Kostya found a gnarled log in the middle of the plateau, which had once been part of a young cedar. I wonder where he could have come from here? We took the log with us: there would be something to cook food on. When they cut it up, they saw that one log looked very much like a goblin. The hand did not rise to throw him into the fire, and for some time he was the 9th member of our team. Sveta even threatened to take him to the city. But the goblin, apparently, did not want to leave Ukok, and at one of the rest stops he unnoticed fell out of the pot.

On the morning of August 19, we had to get to the ford across Ak-Alakha (about 26 km). Vanya warned that this would be the deepest ford on the route. But the weather was excellent, there had been no precipitation for two days, a tailwind was blowing, the road was mostly downhill, so I didn’t want to think about the upcoming difficulties. Moreover, we had reserve days in reserve. It was very easy to drive; the dirt road was mostly smooth and well-worn. Not far from the confluence of the Ak-Alakha and Kalguta rivers, we began to come across traces of modern civilization - empty winter roads, next to which fresh haystacks could be seen here and there. Apparently people still come here. Soon we reached a rock that stood out against the background of the surrounding area.

In the sun it sparkled with a metallic sheen, but in the shadow of the clouds it sometimes appeared red. In addition, near it the flow of Ak-Alakha, whose water is much whiter than in Katun or Chuya, sharply changed its direction. And from the huge boulders scattered in the river bed under the rock, it was noticeable that the water level had dropped significantly, and this turned out to be very useful for us. We decided not to risk it and cross Ak-Alakha today, fortunately the weather was warm. They found the ford site quickly, but it didn’t look much like a car ford. The AkAlakha spread very widely here, dividing into several branches, between which rose small areas of land, overgrown with dwarf birch and Kuril tea.

Reconnaissance showed that it was quite easy to overcome the first branch, but they still decided to untie the backpacks from the bicycles. And then Sveta and I were entrusted with a responsible mission: to carry a package of documents dry to the other shore, which we completed successfully. This evening we decided to spend the night right next to the ford. Moreover, from here Tabyn-Bogdo-Ula was clearly visible in all its glory. In fact, it was the evening of farewell to him. But we still have time to enjoy it unrealistically beautiful landscape. Not even a landscape, but an evening performance with the participation of our favorite giant. By sunset, dinner was already ready, and it was at that moment that the light show began on the slopes of Tabyn-Bogdo-Ula.

The tops of the glaciers took turns being painted in pink-orange shades, then the gray-blue twilight gradually licked the warm tones from the slopes of the massif and he finally fell asleep. His sleep that night was guarded by the full moon. There wasn't a single cloud in the sky. And while waiting for the star show, four brave people decided to settle down for the night under open air. I’ll be honest: when I was getting ready to go on a hike, I dreamed of spending the night under the starry sky, but this time I decided not to risk my health. Still, the nights here turned out to be quite cold with my sleeping bag. And the temptation was so great... However, when I woke up in the morning and saw the guys on the shore in frosty sleeping bags, I did not regret my decision. Although it wasn’t too hot to spend the night alone in a 3-person tent, at least frost didn’t fall on my face.

On the morning of August 20, we moved along Ak-Alakha to the confluence of the river. Akkol. It didn't take long to drive, and then there was another ford. The water in Akkola turned out to be very clear, especially compared to Ak-Alakha, the current was quite strong, but we fermented the stream without any problems. After the ford, the road temporarily ended, and then we had to move along the horse trail up the river valley. Akkol. Cloudless sky and bright

the sun playing on the waves of bright blue Akkol could not leave me indifferent. I constantly felt that my soul was literally tearing out of my chest in an attempt to soar above all these beauties. In addition, there are clearly more colors here, large islands have appeared

bright green grass near the water.

Herds of domestic animals began to appear, which from a distance seemed very friendly. However, they dissuaded me from checking this, but I really wanted to take a closer photograph of the shaggy yaks! The day was very hot. It’s no wonder that at the next stop, many decided to swim in the nameless Akkol tributary, the water in which turned out to be surprisingly warm. As we approached the Akkol pass, we had to overcome several swamps, which, however, did not bring us any noticeable trouble. River valley Akkol turned out to be a very busy place. The presence of people in it made itself felt much more often than before: we began to come across people guarding large herds, abandoned winter roads, and the road became more traveled. How long or how short did it take us to get to the place where we spent the night at the source of the Akkol?

The mileage of the 5th day was 24.6 km. We went to the Akkol pass on August 21 in anticipation of how great it would be to descend from it. But it was almost impossible to go up, not so much because of the steepness of the climb, but because of the dirt road, completely strewn with large boulders. When I climbed it, I was haunted by the thought of how can you drive a car here? But they drive... At this pass, for the last time between the mountains, Tabyn-Bogdo-Ula appeared to us in all its glory. How sad it was to say goodbye to him! Here I realized that our journey was approaching the end, and I wanted to delay the moment of parting as much as possible... Kostya’s hopes for a downhill race were destined to come true, but not right away. First, we had to overcome stone embankments along which the bike rushed forward, but the risk of getting square wheels was very high.

So at first, even on relatively flat sections of the road, I preferred to walk. They were too short. An excellent descent began immediately after the red rock, at the foot of which a whole field of its fragments of different sizes was scattered. And then we broke away. The speed was such that the ears were blocked from the rapid loss of altitude. And below a completely different landscape was already opening up: trees appeared on the slopes of the mountains. A quick descent led us to the last ford across the river on Ukok. Zhumaly. After it, a dirt road led us along the Zhumaly valley all the way to the Dzhumaly springs (the starting point). There was quite a bit left before meeting our car (from the pass to the springs you need to drive about 32 km). Along the way, we discussed options for the remaining days. After all, we had three reserve days left that we didn’t need on Ukok.

At the general council, they decided to move to the Chuysky tract on light bicycles. At the same time, we had to take a shortcut by crossing the South Chuysky ridge, and the car with the “extra” cargo had to move towards Barnaul. But first we had to drive it to the river. Tara. We left the Zhumaly valley already at sunset. How picturesque it was! Ukok said goodbye to us, painting the peaks of the mighty mountains and the sky above them with flashes of orange and red. It was necessary to look at it in order to remember it for a long time... How I wanted to jump out of the car and admire this spectacle! But time was inexorable, darkness was approaching, and we still had to get to our campsite for the night. However, there was still enough lighting to notice: during the trip around Ukok, the dwarf birch trees that had chosen the mountain slopes along the road to the Dzhumalinsky springs became predominantly red, but less than a week ago they were all green.

Autumn is coming so quickly here. On the morning of August 22, we loaded our things into our bicycle transporter and, in a reduced number, set off to conquer the South Chuya Range lightly. The weather was favorable: clear sky with small clouds, gentle sun, calm. Everything foreshadowed success for our voyage. The road gradually climbed up, but the ride was easy and fun. The vegetation around was no longer much like what we saw on Ukok: there was much more greenery and large trees, but on Ukok there were none at all. By the time it became difficult to drive, the road suddenly ended and we continued on foot to the Azhu pass (2925 m). Judging by the map, there should be a horse trail here, but we didn’t see it. The last 200 meters of the climb were over rocky terrain with no trail.

It became noticeably cooler and the clouds began to hang over us in a painfully frightening way. Rare drops of rain could not spoil the impression of what we saw from the saddle of the pass. An unearthly beauty opened up to us: lakes sandwiched between mountains. Black clouds hung behind us, while in front the clouds were still quite rare, but the wind carried them with high speed, and the color of the water in the lakes changed from azure to dark blue in a matter of seconds. The rising wind and the beginning of rain forced us to speed up our descent. Here the card failed again. Judging by it, the road should have passed right through the center of the lakes. But from above we saw neither a road nor a path (neither in the center of the lakes, which is not surprising, nor along their edges). How the guys chose the right bank we needed remains a mystery to me.

We had to go down a steep descent, strewn with huge stones (although in some places there is information that the Azhu Pass is suitable for traveling on motorcycles and ATVs). Carefully choosing the path, we went down to the water's edge of the first lake. There is no road or path here. So we went straight along the shore. We didn’t walk fast, in some places we had to splash through the swamp, and in some places it was relatively dry. The rain started and then stopped. It seemed to me that the cloud was completely caught on the tops of the mountains at the pass and our guardian angel was trying with all his might to hold it there. We tried to walk faster without looking back. When we approached the second lake, it turned out to be no smaller than the first, although from the pass it looked different. Here he opened and very beautiful view to the snow-capped peak of Irbis-Tu (translated as “snow leopard mountain”, 3976 m above sea level) and the black rock.

Soon after we descended below the lakes, we saw herds and some kind of building (either a winter road or a cowshed). A dirt road began next to them. Meanwhile, the wind became even stronger, and it looked like it was already snowing over the lakes. It was great that the wind was blowing at our back, and the road somehow immediately went well. She quickly led us to the river. Elangash, which flows out of those lakes we walked past. Driving past would be an unforgivable mistake. After all, in this place the river cut through the rock deep canyon, which began with a cascade of tall but narrow waterfalls. An impressive sight! After the waterfalls we drove with very few stops. We were literally driven forward by the wind and the desire to escape from the rain. Elangash turned out to be beautiful river. Ahead, in the rays of the sun, its water sparkled bright blue. The riverbed constantly meandered through the valley, which is why the road often crossed it.

The river was shallow, and we often simply crossed it. The storm was literally licking our heels, and the sun was still shining ahead. But thanks to this we saw a double rainbow. It was so bright that we simply could not help but take a picture of it. Then we saw rainbows again, but the desire to stop became less and less. One look back was enough to pedal as hard as I could. It's a pity we were in such a hurry. After all, as I later learned from Alexander Lebedev’s guidebook “In the Altai Mountains”, in this valley there is huge complex rock paintings (about 30 thousand of them have been studied so far). We didn't notice him. It's a pity that I didn't come across this book before the trip. Sunset was approaching, but there was still no connection (we had to call Ivan, who drove a minibus with our things, and find out where the camp would be). At the exit from the Elangash valley to the Chui steppe, some kind of water supply appeared along the road.

Perhaps these were the remains of an irrigation system that was built during the Soviet era. This hypothesis is supported by the remains of irrigation machines that can be seen nearby, a destroyed dam designed to drain water from the river. Elangash into an artificial channel, and working watering machines on a small piece of land fenced with barbed wire. Near these watering stations our phones started working, and soon we found our camp. On this day we drove 62 km. The most interesting thing is that the bad weather never went beyond the river valley. Elangash. And with the onset of complete darkness, stars were even visible in some places in the sky above the camp. In general, we left Ukok on time. On the penultimate day of the hike, they planned to cross the Chui steppe, jump out onto the Chuisky tract near the village.

Chagan-Uzun and spend the night on the banks of the Chuya near the unfinished hydroelectric power station. As on the previous day, we traveled light. The morning was very gloomy, but nothing was dripping from above and it was, in general, relatively warm. But with such lighting, the Chui steppe was not at all pleasing to the eye. All that remains in my memory is a dull picture in gray tones. The vegetation here is extremely sparse; there are a lot of stones (small and medium-sized cobblestones) on the surface of the earth. This made me even more bewildered: why irrigate the desert steppe, what can be grown here?.. There were many intersecting dirt roads that were not on the map and in which it was easy to get confused, we navigated intuitively. Sometimes we drove through the steppe without any road or trail. For the most part the path went downhill, but in some places we climbed quite upward.

On the descents, the road at times became sandy, and on these sections the speed dropped almost to zero; we tried to go around such sections on the grass that sometimes appeared along the road. Then we hit the gravel road leading to Beltir. This village was at the epicenter of the 2003 earthquake, after which it was completely rebuilt. But we only had to drive part of the way to it and, before reaching the asphalt, turn across the steppe towards the Chuysky tract. As we approached the highway, it was impossible not to notice striking changes in surrounding nature. First, yellow colors began to appear among the grayness of the desert. Then there were more of them.

Then, near the Chagan-Uzun River and the village of the same name, forests began to appear on the mountain slopes. At this point we stormed the river for the last time on our hike. The first part of it was crossed quite easily (there was a bridge there, pretty battered by the river flow and spring floods; it held us through, but it seemed to be no longer suitable for cars to pass through). However, the remaining channels did not cause any major problems. And then we rolled out onto the Chuysky tract. What a thrill I felt during the first kilometers of driving along a smooth highway running downhill!.. That day we covered a little more than 100 km. The morning of the last hiking day (August 24) could not give a clear answer to the question, are we going further on bicycles or by car? The rain that had started in the evening was still falling. It was very damp around, we were in a cloud. Danya, despite the rain, lit a fire and prepared breakfast.

Apparently, the spirits of the mountains were on our side, and while we were having breakfast, the cloud left, opening the way for the sun's rays. Seeing the rainbow, I realized that the promised surprise would be realized. Hooray! We'll ride for one more day, and Danya will take us along the Mazhoiskaya trail along Chuya with its most beautiful trails! They really turned out to be awesome, but it was difficult to climb on them even without bicycles. Next to one of the last hold-downs there were thickets of wild fruit bushes, where we refreshed ourselves a little with black currants and filled Max’s pocket with rose hips. They were so large and juicy, as if they were not wild. There is indescribable beauty all around. Chuya carries its waters far below the gorge, the mountain slopes are covered with trees, a lot of greenery, a bright blue sky emerging through the clouds, ringing silence and intoxicatingly sweet air.

After the rain, the smells of different herbs, flowers and trees, which were in abundance here, mixed in it. I couldn’t breathe, and I really didn’t want to leave here. It felt like you could stop time here. So I would sit on the edge of the cliff above Chuya, watching sunrises and sunsets. Soon the trail led us back to the Chuya tract, along which we traveled, accompanied by our minibus, to the confluence of the Chuya and the Katun. On the last day we covered almost 96 km. So, for three days of a “bonus” bike ride, we shortened our journey to Barnaul by a whole day, which we then reached by car. On the way home, the guys talked about how humanity could forever part with the beauty of the places we had seen.

Despite the fact that Ukok is an object World Heritage UNESCO, a decision has been made to build the Altai gas pipeline through this plateau. The initiators of the construction promise not to affect the specially protected area, but to use only its surroundings. But environmentalists still see in this construction too many threats to the nature of the entire Altai Mountains, and the most popular tourist destinations will also suffer. We can only hope that reason will prevail over the human greed of a very limited circle of people and the route of the gas pipeline and road to China will be changed, and we will be able to experience unforgettable meetings with amazing places Mountain Altai. ...

In conclusion, some advice. For this route you need a regular mountain bike. The temperature difference on Ukok is large, night temperatures are negative, so you need to take a warm sleeping bag. I was frankly cold for a couple of nights in my sleeping bag, designed for -10°C. Rubber boots seemed unnecessary to me, but we were lucky with the weather. When planning a trip to the Altai Mountains, you should take care of vaccination against encephalitis (it must be done in advance). I already wrote about the lack of firewood in Ukok, so you need to go with a burner and enough fuel.

• Horseback riding to the Ukok plateau

Minimum age 14 years old

Group size 6 - 18

Accommodation Tents for 3 persons

Complexity

• 1 (suitable for beginners) - the tour is designed for participants without special training. If you can move around the city on foot at the speed of the main stream of people, you are in sufficient shape to participate in the tour.
• 2 (physical fitness required, suitable for beginners) - such tours are designed for participants who lead an active lifestyle: for example, they play football on weekends, sometimes jog or go to the gym. Participants who do not lead an active lifestyle will also be able to complete the entire route, but it may be difficult and sometimes you will have to “be patient.”
• 3 (physical fitness and experience required) - tours are designed for trained tourists and require serious physical activity. Experience of similar tours is required, unless otherwise indicated in the difficulty description.

RUB 37,500 13 days

Cost per person

What's included

• Insurance
• Instructor's work
• Recreational fees

Not included

What will happen

• Horseback riding to the Ukok plateau
• You will be captivated by the peaks of the ridge Southern Altai, including the Tabyn-Bogdo-Ola massif
• You will visit an abandoned tungsten-molybdenum mine from Stalin's times
• The path runs through many archaeological sites: mounds, stone sculptures, rock drawings
• Accommodation in 3-person tents, 3 meals a day
• ATTENTION!!! This route passes through the border area, you need to submit documents for a pass in advance: citizens of the Russian Federation - 30 days in advance, foreign citizens- in 61 days.

Included

• Meals: 3 meals a day (on the 1st day only dinner);
• Accommodation In tents with an awning for 3 people.
• Transfer Barnaul/Gorno-Altaisk for the tour and back;
• Equipment Group equipment provided by the program
• Insurance
• Instructor's work
• Recreational fees
• Pass to the border area
• Visit to the bathhouse on the last day of the tour in the village. Barangol

Not included

• Travel/flight a/b Moscow-Barnaul-Moscow (~15,000 rubles)
• Meals on the first day (except dinner), approx. 300 rub.
• Bathhouse available on days 2 and 12, from RUB 350/person
• Visit to the Museum of Military Glory and Village History, 300 rubles/person
• Drinks and food not included in the menu

Tour program by day

Tour program

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Overnight place (3 nights)

Day number

Start location

Finish place

Activity

Accommodation

Chuisky tract, Seminsky and Chike-Tamansky passes

On the way:
Accommodation: Tent
Meals: dinner

Meeting the group at the airport in Barnaul/city. Gorno-Altaisk and/or at the Barnaul train station. Travel along the Chuisky tract (550/300 km by car) – once an ancient caravan route connecting Russia and Mongolia. This fast-paced road will open your eyes to landscapes of wondrous beauty. Rapidly changing landscapes, breathtaking serpentines of the Seminsky and Chike-Tamansky passes will not let you fall asleep on the way and will completely capture your attention. Overnight in tents on the banks of the Chuya River.

• Additionally
• Additional meals in a cafe (1 meal) from 300 rub.

Communications in populated areas.

In the village Kosh-Agach paperwork for visiting the border area. Transfer to the village of Belyashi (Dzhazator) along a country road (250 km by car). Accommodation in tents on the territory of the equestrian base. Acquaintance with the culture, life and traditions of the Kazakhs inhabiting the Kosh-Agach region. In Jazator you can visit the museum of military glory and history of the village.

• Additionally
• Bathhouse 350 rub/person
• Visit to the Museum of Military Glory and Village History 300 rub/person

Communications in populated areas.

10 km, 3 hours

3 times

Dzhazator village, Dzhazator river, Sudobay stream

Travel time: 10 km, 3 hours
Accommodation: Tent
Meals: 3 times a day

The morning begins with a safety briefing, distribution of food and equipment. The beginning of the equestrian part of the route. The road runs through the village of Dzhazator, a corner of Kazakh culture in Altai, and takes us to a bridge over the river of the same name. The wide valley of the Dzhazator River gives way to the valley of the Sudobay stream, squeezed by the mountain slopes. Ahead you can see views of the beautiful and harsh mountains of the South Chuya Beleks and their highest peak - Iiktu (3936 m). We set up camp on the bank of the Sudobay stream and stop for the night. If you wish, you can climb to a small peak and see the village of Dzhazator and the path traveled today from a bird's eye view. Horse trekking takes 2-3 hours.

18 km, 7 hours

3 times

Sudobay stream, Kara-Bulak pass (2800 m), Kara-Bulak river.

Travel time: 18 km, 7 hours
Accommodation: Tent
Meals: 3 times a day

The next morning the journey continues and the trail leads to the source of the Sudobay stream. A long and harsh climb to the Kara-Bulak pass, 2800 m high, awaits you. From the top of the pass an amazing panorama with rare natural contrasts opens up: right in front of you lies the mysterious Ukok plateau; above the plateau, the snowy peaks of Tabyn-Bogdo-Ola, sparkling in the sun, proudly raise their peaks to the sky; the eternal snow and ice of the South Chuya ridge remained behind; perhaps the clouds will disperse and a majestic three-headed Beluga- the crown of the Katunsky ridge and the entire Altai. We descend from the pass along the picturesque bank of the Kara-Bulak River, covered with a carpet of flowering herbs. The lakes, which are the source of the Kara-Bulak River, amaze with their unusual shape and color of water. The trail goes along a mountain spur, its structure reminiscent of an amphitheater. We camp for the night in the middle reaches of the river, not far from a picturesque waterfall. Horse trekking takes 6-7 hours.

22 km, 8 hours

3 times

Akkol river, Kyzyltash tract, Kalguty river, petroglyphs of the Bertek pisanitsa, Ak-Alakha river.

Travel time: 22 km, 8 hours
Accommodation: Tent
Meals: 3 times a day

Today a busy day awaits you, full of discoveries and unforgettable impressions. In the morning we continue walking along the valley of the Kara-Bulak River to its confluence with the Ak-Alakha River. Along the left bank of the Ak-Alakha River, after its confluence with Akkol, the first archaeological monuments are found. In order to see the Ukok plateau from a bird's eye view, we easily overcome the climb to the viewing height (2600 m). In front of you stretches a hilly plateau, completely covered with hundreds of saucer lakes, with water ranging from turquoise to blue-black, and a web of milky rivers. The water glistens and shimmers in the sun, and this makes the plateau seem golden. There is a stunning view of the Tabyn-Bogdo-Ola mountain range (“Five Sacred Peaks”), framing the plateau on the south side. According to legend, the name of these mountains was given by Genghis Khan himself. One of the peaks, Mount Nairamdal (4374 m) is the second highest in Siberia, after Belukha. Many believe that it is at the foot of Tabyn-Bogdo-Ola that the entrance to legendary Shambhala. The plateau has always been surrounded by an aura of sacredness; it is difficult to describe it in words; here all the senses are heightened, and one often has “prophetic” dreams. The Ukok plateau hides many historical secrets. Ancient memorial structures of the Turks, Scythians, Huns, and Sarmatians were found here. In the Kyzyltash tract you will examine the petroglyphs of the Bertek pisanitsa and, perhaps, you will find all 120 images. The age of the ancient drawings is 4700 years. In the valley of the Kalguta River you will see an old Kazakh cemetery from the late 19th century. Our path along the plateau is the path of nomadic warriors, trade caravans, and Genghis Khan himself. We stop for the night near the bridge over Ak-Alakha. Horse trekking takes 7-8 hours.

16 km, 7 hours

3 times

Ak-Alakha River, burial place of the “Princess of Altai”, Bertek outpost, Lake Kaldzhin-Kul.

Travel time: 16 km, 7 hours
Accommodation: Tent
Meals: 3 times a day

The next morning we continue moving along the plateau, which is an open-air museum. Along the way we examine archaeological monuments of different eras, represented by mounds, stone fences, displays, steles, balbals, etc. Inspection of the burial site of the “Princess of Altai” - a unique and sensational find of the Pazyryk culture. Next, the path runs past the border outpost to an unusual beautiful lake Kaldzhin-Kul. Laughing gulls fly over the blue water, warblers and scoters call to each other. If desired, a radial exit to a viewing height (2624 m) is possible, from which the mountainous country - the Southern Altai ridge, as well as the source of the Ak-Alakha River - is clearly visible. Horse trekking takes 6-7 hours.

18 km, 8 hours

3 times

lake Kaldzhin-Kul-Bas, Mukyr-Tabati pass (2590 m), Mukyr stream

Travel time: 18 km, 8 hours
Accommodation: Tent
Meals: 3 times a day

Lake Kaldzhin-Kul – lake Kaldzhin-Kul-Bas – Mukyr-Tabati pass (2590 m) – Mukyr stream.
After breakfast the journey continues. A trail along the Kaldzhin-Kul and Kaldzhin-Kul-Bas lakes awaits you. In summer, delicate green grass frames the lakes, reflecting the snow-white mountains, blue skies and clouds. Having overcome the climb to the Mukyr-Tabati pass (2590 m), we say goodbye to the Ukok plateau. The pass is a small high-mountain plateau and even here you are surprised by the presence of numerous amazingly beautiful lakes. Descent along a narrow valley covered with lush grass, low willow bushes and squat birch. Mukyr winds strongly, with dozens of bright streams scattering from it in all directions. The Russian-Kazakh border runs parallel to the stream, 8 km to the south, so you can encounter Russian border guards. Large grayling are found in Mukyr. Overnight in a clearing among majestic larches. Horse trekking takes 7-8 hours.

15 km, 5 hours

3 times

Mukyr stream, r. Chindagatuy, Chindagatuy mine, lake. Alakhinskoe.

Travel time: 15 km, 5 hours
Accommodation: Tent
Meals: 3 times a day

Today the journey continues along beautiful valley Chindagatui River. The valley is flat, with a large number swamps, covered with dense thickets of dwarf birch. Green slopes and larch copses are pleasing to the eye. Our path runs along the former dirt road, which in the 1940s led to the Chindagatui mine. In some places there are remains of buildings and wooden piles. An abandoned mine is visible on the left as you move along. Mount Molybdenum rises above it, on the slope of which there are adit exits. The mine produced molybdenum and tungsten from 1938 to 1954. After visiting this monument of the Stalin era, we head to Lake Alakhinskoye. Along the lake the path goes along a shaky ridge, movement is difficult and dangerous. Horses must be led. Be prepared for this. Horse trekking takes 4-5 hours.

3 times

Lake Alakhinskoye

On the way:
Accommodation: Tent
Meals: 3 times a day

Rest day at the lake. Alakhinskoye is large and deep lake rich blue color. From the west it is limited by harsh blue-gray mountains with white caps of eternal snow. They reflect perfectly in calm water. On a hot day you can take a swim. The lake has excellent grayling fishing. You can pick golden root, mushrooms, eat honeysuckle or lingonberries. From the lake you can climb to a viewing height, and the panorama that opens will be worth the effort. A sparkling gray-blue lake will open before you, flowing out of a small turquoise-colored lake, a waterfall falls from the mountains, the Kara-Alakha river runs merrily, rushing towards the village of Dzhazator.

15 km, 6 hours

3 times

Lake Alakhinskoye, Kara-Alakha River, Ak-Bulak tract.

Travel time: 15 km, 6 hours
Accommodation: Tent
Meals: 3 times a day

Having rested, we begin our descent along the swampy valley of the Kara-Alakha River. Having enjoyed the new views, we begin the ascent through a dense, impassable, like a fairy-tale forest to the Ak-Bulak tract. In August, the forest is covered with a carpet of lingonberries. Overnight in the Ak-Bulak tract. Horse trekking takes 5-6 hours.

25 km, 9 hours

3 times

Ak-bulak tract, Chokportas tract, Koksu river.

Travel time: 25 km, 9 hours
Accommodation: Tent
Meals: 3 times a day

Having climbed the ridge, we will see a panorama of the surrounding mountains. The Chokportas tract will amaze you to the core. On your right hand the snow-capped peaks of Tabyn-Bogdo-Ola open up, on your left - gradually opening up, a silver-sparkling three-headed Belukha appears from behind the clouds. The huge rocks and cliffs located in the tract resemble medieval castles, columns, animal figures and silhouettes of people. One can only be amazed at how accurately, like a sculptor, nature sculpted a granite horse, a terrible troll or a huge stone sphinx. And it is unknown what force scattered these statues across the earth. Having overcome steep slopes, a kurumnik, a pine forest, a windfall, meadows well-groomed after haymaking, we descend to the Koksu River. In a wide river valley, at a well-maintained parking lot, we camp for the night. The surrounding forests are rich in berries and mushrooms. Horse trekking takes 8-9 hours.

12 km, 4 hours

3 times

Koksu River, Jazator village

Travel time: 12 km, 4 hours
Accommodation: Tent
Meals: 3 times a day

Today is the last day of the trip. Our road will run through the high mountain steppe of Samakha. The steppe is very beautiful. Open areas covered with low-growing grass alternate with islands of forest. On the opposite side of the Koksu River there will be a beautiful view of the Katunsky ridge with Shenel Peak - “the beginning of the Katunsky ridge”. Through a small forest the road will lead us to the village of Dzhazator. The horse journey is over. Horse trekking takes 3-4 hours.

• Additionally
• Bathhouse 350 rub/person

Communications in populated areas.

3 times

Kosh-Agach village, Barangol village

On the way:
Meals: 3 times a day

Early departure from the village of Dzhazator to the village of Kosh-Agach and then drive to the village of Barangol (550 km by car). On the way, visit historical and natural attractions. Bathhouse. Farewell dinner. Departure to Barnaul (22:00, car 300 km) / Gorno-Altaisk

This hike is exploration, which means there will definitely be adventures!

Detailed description of what will appear after the hike in August 2019.

The Ukok Plateau is the most mystical, mysterious and most inaccessible place in the Altai Mountains. It is located in the very south, on the border of four states: Russia, Kazakhstan, China and Mongolia, at an altitude of about 2000 meters and is included in the World Heritage Fund. natural heritage UNESCO.

We have to travel 957 kilometers in off-road vehicles to see fantastic landscapes that are truly mesmerizing and will penetrate to the core.

Almost every day we will make radials from which we will bring amazing photographs!

For fishing enthusiasts there will be time to catch trophy grayling. And the fishing on the plateau is simply gorgeous!

We'll go deep into the wilderness Altai mountains- to places where it is quite difficult to get to on foot or on horseback in order to touch the untouched primeval beauty, surrounded by mystical mountains and ancient mounds.

You will see the legendary mounds of the Ukok plateau, its “Deer Stones”, the burial place of the “Princess of Altai”, as well as the Tabyn-Bogdo-Ola ridge and the lion’s share of Altai attractions that stretch along the Chuysky tract.

We will visit natural places the strength of the Altai Mountains in order to absorb the flow of vital energy, allowing one to be “reborn again”.

We will spend the night in the places where our ancestors lived a thousand years ago, about which there were corresponding traces on the rocks.

We will ford several deep mountain rivers.

After traveling along the Ukok plateau, we will raft on catamarans along the upper Chuya! We will raft along the beautiful Kurai steppe. There will be no difficult rapids on the river!)
And, of course, we’ll take a steam bath in a hot bathhouse!

The other side of this fantastic tour is the healing of the body. After all, we make sure to visit the Teply Klyuch radon springs. Such baths generally increase vitality, improve heart function, normalize blood pressure, and promote the healing of wounds and various injuries.

The instructor on this route is Sergey Biryukov On top of that, he’s also a professional photographer, which means you’re guaranteed cool photos from the trip;)

Program by day

Day 1

Meet in Barnaul. We drive all day along the famous Chuysky tract. On the way, lunch in the canteen. Overnight at a campsite near the village of Kurai in cozy tents. We will cover 700 km by car.

Day 2

We wake up, pack the camp, have breakfast and hit the road. During the move we will see

the Kyzyl-Chin valley (local Mars), the village of Beltir (the epicenter of the powerful earthquake of 2003), we will cross the Chui valley and pass the customs post on the Tarkhata River. Overnight on the banks of the Tarkhata River. We will travel 100 km by car.

Day3

We drive up the gorge of the Tarkhata River and climb to the Dzhumalinsky Pass (2750 m). From the pass there is a stunning view of the South Chuya Range. Next is another pass, then radon springs. You may have to walk 2-3 km and ford small rivers.

Day 4

After descending from the Teply Klyuch pass (2900), the Ukok plateau begins. Overnight at the foot mountain range Tabyn Bogdo Ola on the shore of Lake Gusinoye.

Day 5

Moving from the lake Gusinoye to lake Alakhinskoe. There will be two passes along the road, the rivers Muzdy-bulak, Ak-alakha and Kara-alakha. The Bertek tract is the “heart of Ukok”, with ancient burials and one of them, “Altai Princess”, is famous throughout the world.

Day 6

Day on Lake Alakhinskoe. We're not going anywhere today. We'll walk around all day the most beautiful places, and fishermen will catch trophy grayling! In the evening it will be a HOOT!)

Day 7

Transfer to the Teply Klyuch pass. We'll take photos along the way!

Day 8

Transfer to the Chuya River. We set up camp and get ready for rafting.

Day 9

Rafting on the Chuya River from the village of Chagan Uzun. There will be no difficult rapids on the river! Let's calmly walk along the river and admire the Kurai steppe! Overnight in tents on the banks of the Chuya River

Day 10

Rafting along the Chuya River to the village of Kurai. After the rafting, we disassemble the catamarans and take a steam bath! Festive dinner!

Day 11

Moving to the city of Barnaul, 700 km

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