Automobile route through the Carpathians. Car trip to the Carpathians

Honeymoon trip by car in Transcarpathia: Ternopil, churches, rocks, waterfall, cave, climb to Hoverla, beautiful nature and photographs.

Preparation

The day after the wedding, June 26, my husband and I went to honeymoon. We planned the trip thoroughly: we spent about a month drawing up the route (down to the names of the routes and gas stations), reading about all the attractions of the Carpathians and choosing the best ones for ourselves, looking for where to stop and eat.

Climbing Goverla and spending the night at Lake Nesamovity were also included - this was the “cherry” of the trip. Such a well-thought-out plan only played into our hands, especially when our “nafiger” was naughty and tried to lead us in the wrong direction.

Kyiv - Ternopil

Day one, June 26. So, things are collected, the route is drawn up, the car is filled to capacity - go ahead!

The first thing you feel when you drive 100 km from Kyiv is the air! It is different, intoxicating, viscous, rich in the aroma of greens and herbs. You can just “drink” it! It is at such moments that you understand the meaning of the phrase “a breath of clean air.”

The starting point of our journey was the “fine” city of Ternopil. The road to it ran through picturesque fields and forests, endless green alleys and neat cities. We arrived there at 8-9 pm. First of all, we went to the main square to look at the huge lake and park. Shopping centers, no restaurants, no monuments, only nature. There are street musicians playing at every turn, a lot of attractions for children, and dance floors. You can happily stroll along the embankment and enjoy the sunset.

Main square of the city

Yacht against sunset background

Love Island

After a walk around the lake, we decided to go to a picturesque place to refresh ourselves. Air is air, but no one canceled worldly food. We highly recommend the restaurant "Fine Misto", located next to main square. There are a lot of people there, but there is enough space for everyone. Live music, warm atmosphere, and the cuisine will amaze lovers of national cuisine. “Pansky potato pancake” still makes my mouth water. Be careful - the portions are large and Transcarpathian dishes are addictive!

Having paid tribute to the good cuisine, we went to check into our hostel - "Fine Misto"! Just as Ternopil was dubbed “fine”, so everything there is “fine”. The hostel is cozy and inexpensive: a room for 4 cost us 200 UAH/night. Fortunately, no one moved in with us, and we slept in comfort and silence.

Kitchen in the hostel

Our bedroom

Church of the Holy Spirit, Rock Church, Dovbush Rocks

Day two, June 27. After breakfast at the hostel, we moved further to the village of Guklyvy, Volovets district. There is an ancient wooden Church of the Holy Spirit. We really wanted to look at the unusual painting inside it. However, we were unlucky - the church was closed, Monday is a day off. We walked around the church territory and touched ancient (dating back to the 18th century) burial grounds.

We moved further - to the village of Rozgirche. Near it there is an unusual Rock Church. It's better to get there on foot. We drove towards Skole and stopped opposite the turn sign for Nizhnyaya Stinava. We went in the opposite direction from the sign, towards the village of Rozgirche. It was necessary to walk across the bridge over the river, along the gas pipes, further along the road to the village itself.

There they asked the locals how to get to the church. They explained how to get to the outskirts of the village, and there it was just a stone’s throw away. Immediately behind the village there will be a path up the mountain, which led us to the church.

Road over the bridge

Inside the church

Up the steps

View from above of the valley

This ancient rock church has been little studied and is not very popular among tourists. But in vain! This is a unique monument of sacred construction, dating back to the 18th-19th centuries. The church is located on a hill, which offers an amazing view of the nature of the Carpathians and the Opir River.

The last point for this day was the Dovbush Rocks near the village of Trukhanov. On the outskirts of the village there is a forestry area, where we left the car and walked along the path to the rocks. Light rain was falling, the sky was overcast and hanging low - weather typical of the Carpathians. The only thing marring the descent and ascent to the rocks was the dirt underfoot.

The rocks themselves are impressive - harsh, monumental blocks shrouded in fog. Having climbed the stone steps to the top, we froze at the sight of the pristine beauty of nature around. Century-old pines, tops of rocks that resemble someone’s faces, caps of clouds - you feel so small among these giants. These rocks are favorite place for training young climbers, their camp was located right behind the rocks.

View from the rocks

Way back

We spent the night in the forestry. They wanted to put up a tent in the yard, but the forester invited us to spend the night in the house (he himself lived in another house). It turns out, the first wedding night among the forest and rocks! The forester didn’t even take money from us for overnight accommodation. We thanked him as best we could - in the morning we cleaned the whole house.

Forestry and our machine

Skole, Shipot waterfall, Synevyr lake

Day three - June 28. After having breakfast in the forestry and thanking the hospitable host, we moved to the city of Skole to look at the Church of Saints Paraskeva-Panteleimon. But we had no luck with churches - they were closed because it was Constitution Day. And I really wanted to see its unusual wooden iconostasis... Well, we walked around the territory of the church and moved on.

The next destination is the Shipot waterfall near the village of Pylypets. It is better to see it once than to read or hear it 100 times. The spectacle is incredible, a rapid stream of water encased in rocks. We climbed the stairs to the top of the waterfall - the feeling of the power and indomitability of the water was breathtaking.

There were so many tourists that we had to stand in line for photos. On the way to the waterfall there are sheds where food is cooked on fire: you can taste Transcarpathian wine and buy souvenirs. We bought magnets from every place on our trip.

I was also struck by the unusual color of the large hog that greets tourists on the path to the waterfall. He brazenly approaches and demands a tasty treat.

The impudent hog wants some treats

Then we moved to Lake Synevyr to the village of Synevyrskaya Polyana. Leaving the car at a special parking lot for tourists, we walked up the asphalt road. The lake is located at an altitude of 900 meters above sea level.

This is truly a miracle of nature, deep blue in the shape of a heart. I was struck by the ringing silence and the feeling of sleeping power. It seemed as if you would throw a pebble into the lake or shout loudly and it would wake up. We even spoke in whispers.

Synevyr

It was getting dark and we needed to find accommodation for the night. We decided to put up a tent near the river, although there were many offers of overnight accommodation in hotels and private estates in the village. The first time I fell asleep to the sounds of the forest and the sound of water right under my feet.

Overnight at Synevyr

Milk Stone, road to Hoverla

Day four, June 29. The cows woke us up with their bells and melodious mooing. We got ready and went to the village of Velikaya Uholka - there is a cave called Milk Stone.

The road to this village became synonymous for us with the worst roads. The distance that we usually covered in 1.5 hours was covered in 3.5 hours. The speed was about 20 km per hour, there were potholes and pits at every step.

Tired of such shaking and taffy, we arrived in the village. We left the car at the forestry and bought entrance tickets to the reserve (60 UAH for two) and moved up. What we paid the money for is still a mystery to me. The path to the mountain was covered in fallen trees, there were no clear signs, everything was covered in leaves and mud. We climbed for about an hour. It's good that it didn't rain.

Road to the cave

Milk Stone Cave is a miracle of karst. It is small, only 92 meters, but very unusual. The walls are milky white due to the limestone. If you illuminate them with multi-colored lanterns, you get the feeling that you are in a cave of wonders and that a secret door to gnomes or trolls is about to open into its depths. I want to explore every corner of it.

Cave entrance

Milk Stone Cave

Unfortunately, the charm of the cave did not brighten up the fact that we had to go back almost half the way along these “wonderful” roads to go to Solotvino. We planned to be there for lunch, but we were only there at 8 pm. We quickly ate and left.

Ahead of us lay 100 km to the foot of Goverla. It was a real sprint race along a mountain serpentine road, where there are no lights, only the direction of the road. Others helped the car driving in front of us - “if they entered the turn, then we will enter too!”

We arrived near Goverla at the Zaroslyak sanatorium at 12 at night. Near the base there is a forest where tourists set up tents, take water from a spring, and cook food over a fire. There is also a toilet. But this is during the day, and at night?! Have you ever pitched a tent in pitch darkness? As soon as the flashlight turned off, you couldn’t even see your hands. But we installed it and immediately went to bed. Tomorrow we have an ascent!

Climbing to Goverla, Lake Nesamovitoe

Day five, June 30. We woke up early, quickly had breakfast and began to rise. You can climb Hoverla in two ways - steep and gentle. For novice tourists (like me) the second one is recommended. You will get tired less and see more. There are many people on this path, but everyone gives way and tries to help. The ascent took about 3 hours.

We were very lucky with the weather - it was warm, airy clouds, and a light breeze. This allowed us to calmly climb and enjoy the view from the top. And what coffee at the top of Hoverla!

Hooray! We've arrived!

After enjoying the view from the mountain and having a little rest, we walked through 4 mountains to Lake Nesamovity. My husband had a dream to spend the night there. It will be done! We got there at a leisurely pace in about 3 hours. Along the way, we didn’t get tired of admiring the stunning landscapes of the Carpathians and absorbing all this beauty!

View of our base

View from the top

The beauty of Carpathian nature

We reached the lake in the evening. Despite the sun, it was very cold. We quickly set up a tent, ate and sat admiring the stars. They are huge, bright, and you just want to reach them with your hand. The sensations were the same as on Synevyr - the presence of a huge sleeping force.

Nesamovitoe is a lake of suicides and a “controller” of weather in the entire region. If you throw a stone there or stir up the water, the weather will worsen. You need to behave quietly and respectfully. We lit incense sticks for the spirits of the lake, asked for the secret and thanked for the shelter. Near the lake there is a spring, places for making a fire and bushes.

View of the lake from above

Road to Chernivtsi, kolyba "Babai"

Day six, July 1. We woke up early, thanked the spirits and went to the base. We descended 7 km through the mountains and along forest paths. The sun was warm, the breeze caressed the skin, the forest filled the air with fresh and spicy aromas.

Way back through the forest

and water...

Near the base there is a small market with Transcarpathian souvenirs and wine. After buying souvenirs and having a little rest, we moved on. They wanted to climb Mount Scripture Stone, but there was little time, it was a long way to climb, and there were a lot of snakes there. We decided not to risk it and headed for Chernivtsi.

On the way we stopped for lunch at the Babai kolyba outside the village of Yavoriv. A very colorful place: wooden decor, excellent service, amazing cuisine. There I tried trout for the first time - a divine dish at a ridiculous price, only 30 UAH per fish. I note that in Yaremche the same fish cost us 130 UAH.

We arrived in Chernivtsi in the evening. The city is very cozy, sincere, intimate. A beautiful main street, ancient buildings decorated with stucco, the aroma of coffee and pastries is in the air. We tried the famous ice cream - balls of various colors and flavors in an unusual waffle cup. We didn’t get to the university; it was already closed. Next time there will be a reason to come!

Take a ride through the streets of Chernivtsi

Acid ice cream

There were problems with accommodation for the night. All normal hostel rooms were occupied, offering only beds in 8-12 bed rooms. We decided to go to the station, where we rented a rest room - two separate beds with a clean bed and a window overlooking the track. The trains stopped running at 11 pm and there was silence until 7 am. The room cost us 220 UAH per night and another 20 UAH per shower (per person).

Khotin and Kamenets-Podolsky

Day seven, July 2. From Chernivtsi we went to Khotyn and Kamenets-Podolsky, and from there to Kyiv.

The weather gave us suffocating heat, our shoulders simply burned. We didn’t like Khotyn: just the fortress and the landscape, nothing more. The car was parked in front of the entrance to the territory so as not to pay 25 UAH for parking.

But Kamenets-Podolsky impressed us. We've covered everything secret passages, climbed all the towers, visited all the museums, even learned to shoot with a bow. We bought a special document with a real wax seal about our stay in this wonderful city. After lunch at a cafe, we headed to Kyiv via Vinnitsa. We were at home around one in the morning, tired, burned out, but terribly happy.

Fortress towers

City view

Secret passages

Learning to shoot

Our certificate

Think over the route in advance and in great detail so that you don’t have to worry about using the navigator later.

Ask locals where to spend the night, where to eat, how to get there more easily. They will always give you advice; the people there are very friendly and helpful.

Be careful on the roads. Locals drive without rules, the roads are almost not lit, potholes are not visible, be careful when turning.

We drove about 2000 km, spent about 3500 UAH on gasoline (at 14.45 per liter). They took food with them and cooked it on a burner. If you had lunch at a cafe, it cost 140-160 UAH (two first courses, two main courses and dessert). The portions are very large.

Sunscreen and a hat are a must - even with the gentle sun in the mountains, it is very easy to burn and get sunstroke. Drink plenty of water. There are plenty of springs there. The water is very tasty!

Rymar Tatyana Vladimirovna.

Carpathians - mountain system in Central Europe, also located on the territory of Ukraine. This is a story about a small wonderful journey through the Carpathians. The story of crocuses and the May thunderstorm.

The travel plan was simple: to go through the “Carpathian mega-route”, i.e. the entire Marmaros, Montenegrin and Svydovetsky ridges. This is a classic route, trampled by the feet of thousands (if not millions) of tourists from all over the world.

It’s simply wonderful in the Carpathians in spring. It’s so wonderful that the soul sings and asks to fly. All around there is fresh grass, streams, cherry blossoms. There are flowers in the forest: yellow, purple, white. And the aroma of cherries, apple trees, hay and rain in the villages...

The beauty of the Carpathians brightens up the difficult climb: the first day is always difficult, your legs are not yet accustomed to the load.

Morning. The birds sing melodiously in their morning songs, and the warmth from the grass is greeted with pleasant currents of air.

We pass an old abandoned kosh: here once was a farm of shepherds, but now it is in ruins. And here are the first rays! Under the sun it suddenly appeared that to our left - a whole field of crocuses. And we almost missed them...

Crocuses open under the first rays of sunshine:

Legends about crocus - the sea. They can be traced in the history of Asia, the Middle East, and in the history Ancient Greece. Yes, according to ancient Greek legend, the emergence of crocuses occurred in the following sad way. A young man named Krok practiced throwing the discus with the messenger of the Olympic gods, Hermes. During the competition, the disc accidentally hit Krok, and the young man died. And drops of Croc's blood turned into a field of beautiful flowers... This is just one of the many variations of the legend.

There are more interesting legend about one of the conquest campaigns of the Macedonian. One evening the great commander set up camp in the middle of a field of closed crocuses. And in the morning, all the warriors woke up painted yellow (it’s hard to believe, we ourselves lay in such fields - and were not painted). Alexander thought that this was Persian witchcraft and decided to retreat. And later he realized the power of the flower (apparently with a narcotic twist) - and even began to force soldiers to eat food with saffron and take baths with the addition of a miraculous potion...

And on greek island Santorini even had such a place as Sanctuary of Crocuses. Flowers played a huge role in people's lives: from birth to death. The paintings found on Santorini were mainly devoted to the theme of picking crocuses: they were endowed with special holiness, they were seen as the embodiment of deities.

Crocus uses bright orange stigmas as a spice. Flower stigmas contain essential oil and coloring substances - crocaine, saffronin (well, not “crocaine”). Krokin, dissolving in water, gives it a yellow color, and saffron gives it a red color. Saffron, generally speaking, one of the most expensive spices in the world. And the strongest: just a couple of grams is enough to color the water a bright orange color.

When you watch the petals of crocuses open, a special feeling arises in your soul. But legends are wonderful, as is lying among a field of flowers. But it's time for us to get up and move on.

Slowly we climb the Sheshul hill. Clouds appear in the sky after lunch: large spring clouds. Today we want to climb Mount Petros, stopping at wonderful clearings along the way.

We walk through the forest: streams are babbling, snowfields are melting. There are entire fields of crocuses everywhere; the slopes are sometimes painted purple because of them. They have already risen much higher. From here you can see the meadows and Carpathian forests... So another dream came true - to see crocuses... Now I will dream about them for a long time.

The light, obscured by the running clouds, beautifully illuminates the old houses abandoned by the shepherds:

There are several groups of tourists on Petros. AND old dilapidated chapel. A ladder that’s great to sit on and watch the clouds float peacefully by:

And ahead is our goal, Hoverla (2061 m) - highest point Ukraine. It seems like it's just a stone's throw away:

Let's go down. We pass the picturesque bridge between Petros and the Montenegrin ridge. The entire road is flooded with water: a stream-river gurgles along it. There is still snow in the forest - trampled and compacted, you can’t fall into it. You enter the forest and there is a breeze of coolness and the smells of spruce branches and melted snow:

Thus, through the snow, we soon reached the eco-point “Peremychka”. This is the name of the collection point for “donations” in favor of Carpathian foresters. There are old and new houses here. The old one was already occupied, but no one except us had dared to go into the new one.

We woke up very early, we wanted to meet the first rays higher. Here is a remote place, almost useless for photographers. A little higher - and there is already a beautiful view of the hills and mountains, of the treasured Marmaros ridge on the horizon.

To the highest point of Ukarina - Hoverla- climbed up very quickly. The mountain somehow didn’t impress me. It’s already getting very hot again, the sun is burning like a summer day before a thunderstorm. Clouds roll in, the air thickens, becoming unbearably stuffy. So, burning and complaining about the sun, we reached Lake Nesamovitoe.

They say that in the summer it is better to come to him after lunch, because an evil forester nicknamed “The Spanish Pilot” runs around here. And in May there are only crowds of tourists here. The place is quite dirty: you can feel that legions of tourists are always camping here to spend the night. There are simply countless toads in the lake. They croak hysterically and jump in the snow, apparently also rejoicing in the sun and the surge of strength on the occasion of spring.

We pass Ribs Mountain and begin to look for a place to camp. (Clickable, 1400×651 px):

Crocuses also sense thunderstorms. Although the sun shines on the islands, they shrink and close:

It seems that the rain will soon come to us. On this occasion, we decided not to stay too long and go to peak Gutin Tomnatik, which we jokingly nicknamed Tomatic. There was nothing tasty on Tomatica, but there was a view of the Montenegrin ridge. (Clickable, 1400×687 px):

And the clouds gradually began to rise and disappear. You can see the lake below Brebeneskul, there are tourists standing there, quite a few groups. (Clickable, 1400×622 px):

The evening colors of the sunset picturesquely illuminate the leopard-print mountains...

Tomatik actually turned out to be a heavenly place. (Clickable, 1400×758 px):

Meanwhile, the sun is setting towards the horizon. True, in a haze from the heat of the day. But still enchantingly beautiful. The Carpathian Mountains generally have a characteristic profile that cannot be confused with anything else. Soft lines of ridges, mists rising from the valleys. These mountains have their own music:

Next day. Heat and annoying sun overhead. The sun did not hide, even when it rained and thunder roared around. But it beautifully illuminated the withered spring grass. (Clickable, 1400×859 px):

We started walking towards Mount Pop-Ivan. On the mountain is destroyed observatory "White Elephant". This is a former Polish astronomical and meteorological observatory that only operated from 1938 to 1941. Bad weather suits this place very well. The clouds hang deep blue, sometimes the sky explodes with flashes of lightning:

In the morning I woke up before dawn and went to photograph the wonderful meadows of crocuses. By the way, they have already begun to fade. Some have completely withered, but those near the snowfields or higher up are still getting stronger.

Glades of crocuses are not so easy to photograph: the flowers are small and mix with the grass. So if you want to arrange a photo shoot for them, be prepared to climb on the ground for a long time! (Clickable, 1400×770 px):

Carpathian village of Kvasy. The sun rises higher and higher, fog, low clouds fly by. This is just some other world, unearthly. (Clickable, 1380×890 px):

We leave the village below and move up, along the difficult climb to Mount Bliznitsa. Snowy cornices and clouds hanging like lead:

A strong wind is blowing. It seems to stretch the sails of the snow cornices with sharp lines. Climbing on them is dangerous: every minute they will fall off:

We go down the sunlit road. We say goodbye to the mountain Carpathians.

Why do people go to the mountains? In the mountains, everyone finds their own justification, some want to escape from their wife, some from the bustle of the city and people, and others, on the contrary, in search of loneliness and peace. At any time of the year, the mountains are beautiful and attractive, they are mysterious and photogenic.

Lake Brebeneskul.

Delicious lingonberry (non-GMO).

Blueberry, in our region there is even a festival dedicated to it and a monument erected.

Just some 300 million years ago, the waves of the Tethys Ocean splashed here.

Shipot Waterfall. Annual meeting place hippies (our local Woodstock ).

Pyramids on top, made by those who have reached the highest point.

Slow, grueling climb.

And this is a photo from my first trip to the mountains.

Schopenhauer said: “The most common type of pride is national pride. Every person living on the planet feels a sense of pride in their Motherland.” I would replace the word “Motherland” with “Carpathians”.

Gorgan stones, which are millions, millions of years old.

The Gorgan peaks are famous for their steep ascents and descents, slippery rocks and zherep.

Crystal clear mountain lake Synevir.

Due to the high humidity in the Carpathians, the peaks are often covered in fog and it seems as if you are walking above the clouds.

Paragliders have chosen the Carpathian peaks. Every year there is a competition here " Carpathian Cup » on paragliding.

Sunset over Bear Gorge.

Tourists on the Borzhavsky ridge.

Lake Brebeneskul is a lake of glacial origin, located at an altitude of 1801m above sea level (Chernogora ridge).

Exit to the Marmaroshsky ridge.

Part of the Borzhavsky ridge to the peak of Stoi.

Traverse trail.

The classic peak of the Gorgan ridge is stones and zherep (thorny bushes, mountain pine).

Pine cone. Widely used for the preparation of medicinal preparations.

Gorgansky ridge. The height of the local mountains ranges from 1400 meters to 1800 meters, the highest point of Gorgan is Mount Bolshaya Syvulya (1836 m).

Cobweb on flowers.

Early morning. View from Mount Ozernaya.

Highest point Ukrainian Carpathians is Mount Goverla, 2061 meters above sea level.

View from Mount Velikiy Verkh (Borzhava Range).

View of Mount Stoy (Borzhava Range).

The Svidovets ridge is considered the heart of Europe.

Gorgan landscapes.

High in the mountains, a boy asks his Georgian grandfather:
- Grandfather, how old are you?
- A hundred pEsyat vosEm...
- Do you drink and smoke?!
- Of course!!! Otherwise, I’ll never die like that.

57

Every time I go through the entire route and leave the Carpathian mountains, I know that I will come back here again and again, including in my next lives. Friends, another photo report about the winter Carpathians awaits you.

Report on a car trip from Minsk to Transcarpathia. Sights, vacation spots, local cuisine, travel tips and photographs.

Preface

Transcarpathia is rich in attractions and beautiful views, especially in spring and summer. National cuisine and one can only envy the hospitality. We have only good memories of the trip.

The route laid out in advance was interesting:

1. Minsk.
2. The village of Sol.
3. Uzhgorod.
4. Mukachevo.
5. Thermal springs.
6. Lviv.

Road

We left Minsk in the evening on April 27. The first destination is the village of Sol. We booked a house here, located in the mountains. According to preliminary calculations, they were supposed to arrive the next day at 11:00.

Behind us were Kobrin, Kovel, Novovolynsk, Ivano-Frankovo, Turka, and finally the village of Sol appeared in the distance. We drove at night, so we crossed the border quickly. There were practically no stops, not counting short stops at gas stations and coffee breaks. By morning it began to get lighter, and the sleep disappeared as if by chance - beautiful views began to open up before us. The further we drove, the higher the mountains became.

Natural beauties to discover

We didn’t take the highway because Yandex.Navigator indicated a shorter route - through the mountains. A little advice: always check the route in advance so that you don’t have to hobble along broken roads later.

The ride was good at first, but then we climbed a mountain. Driving along serpentine and broken roads is another challenge - we covered 10 kilometers in 1.5 hours.

We passed a checkpoint in the mountains where our passports were checked. We asked what altitude we were at now. It turned out that this is only 1000 meters above sea level, further - higher.

We stopped periodically to take beautiful photos.

After 5 hours of driving along the serpentine road, tired and hungry, we reached the village of Sol, where they were already waiting for us. The area is unsightly, but this is exactly what you need after the city - mountains, fresh air, calm atmosphere. We booked the cottage on Booking, so there were no problems with check-in. There were only a few shops nearby - ordinary, rural ones. The owners of the house offered a delicious dinner - barbecue, potatoes, salads and homemade tincture. For two nights, a family of 4 paid about $85.

Unveiled beauty

That evening we decided not to go anywhere, but to have a good rest. We went to the mountains for a while, then went to bed. The next day promised to be eventful.

Sights and castles of Uzhgorod

In the morning we went to Uzhgorod - a place where sakura was already blooming. By the way, throughout the entire trip we used Yandex.Navigator. We downloaded the maps in advance, since there was no connection upon arrival. On the way we stopped at Nevitsky Castle, which is located on the mountain. It is also called “Castle of Brides”. After all, as one legend says, it was a fortress for brides, a place where they could find protection. Entrance there is free. The view from the mountain was magnificent.

The castle is located in the village of Kamenitsa. You can get there along the H13 highway to your destination. Then you will have to walk up the mountain for about 15 minutes. However, it's worth it: from the walls of the ruined castle you can see beautiful view. By the way, there are few tourists in this place, so you can freely walk around the area.

Next we went to Uzhgorod - a quiet and calm town. It was cloudy that day, but the weather did not spoil the impression of the trip. Uzhgorod is located on the Uzh River, from which it received its name. It has quite a rich history: it is considered the oldest city Ukraine. There are castles, temples and other attractions here. By the way, small sculptures are scattered throughout the city. They say that whoever finds each of them will be happy for the rest of his life.

We visited Uzhgorod Castle, a city fortress that was built at the end of the 9th century. This is the place with rich history. During the Great Patriotic War A local history museum was opened here.

Entrance to the castle is inexpensive - about 20 hryvnia. There are also discounts for children and students (with student cards).

There weren't many people, since we didn't come to tourist season. I was very pleased that there were no queues. We went to an exhibition, entry to which turned out to be cheap. We looked at all the crowns of the world, it was quite interesting.

We went to Krestovozdvizhensky cathedral. There was a wedding ceremony that day. The cathedral is a valuable architectural structure of the city, located on a hill in the very center of Uzhgorod.

We walked along the linden alley, the length of which is as much as 2 kilometers. We walked around Uzhgorod itself, we especially remember Korzo Street - there is a interesting monument lamplighter

Monument to the lamplighter on the building

Tried it local cuisine and at the same time we found out interesting feature Transcarpathia. They don't cook borscht here because traditional dish considered a bograch. I liked it even more: rich, spicy, even has some special taste. If you come here, be sure to try bograch.

The atmosphere, the music, the waiters in traditional costumes, the interior - everything was wonderful. As for the shops, their prices are low: even in the city center, on the main street, you can buy beautiful and high-quality things for almost nothing. There are coffee shops at almost every step in the city, and the drinks they serve are excellent - be sure to try it.

We can’t help but mention the sakura, which we so wanted to see. Unfortunately, it had already faded, so it was necessary to come to Uzhgorod earlier - somewhere around April 20-23. We got here later, but still found beautiful streets strewn with pink petals. In addition, in many areas local residents The magnolia tree with its large colorful buds began to bloom.

At the end of the day, tired but happy, we returned to the mountains.

Mukachevo and thermal springs

Palanok Castle is located in Mukachevo on the mountain. It attracts thousands of tourists with its interesting history and excellent location. We got here pretty quickly. It is not necessary to walk up the mountain - there is a parking lot near the castle, which we found out about after we climbed it ourselves. Along the way, we often met local merchants who offered gingerbread, souvenirs, and wine.

There were more tourists in the castle than in Uzhgorod, despite the weather. The view from the mountain is incredible.

The architecture of the castle is amazing

Mukachevo were not for long. We went to thermal springs called "Kosino". I, like a true Susanin, decided that we needed to go to the village of Kosino. Don’t repeat my mistakes: the thermal waters are located in a completely different direction - in the village of Koson.

Having wound in circles, we finally arrived at our destination and, happy, ran to swim. The water is hot, it's cool outside. You could even swim in red wine or aromatic coffee. There is also a special tap that does water massage.

You can go to real royal saunas and baths - there was a Roman, Hungarian, eucalyptus bath, salt fox hole, hammam, herbal sauna. They ran from one to the other.

We continued our journey

Sights of Lviv

The next point is Lviv. On the way, we stopped at a local cafe to regain strength and eat well, because there was still another 5 hours of driving ahead.

Opening marvelous spaces

Like this great place and stopped. We ordered delicious food, listened to live music and enjoyed the atmosphere.

The road to Lviv was beautiful - the beauty of nature amazed us.

Endless fields and mountains

In the evening we arrived at a motel, which is located near Lviv, and decided to relax.

The next morning we went to Lviv. In the evening, before leaving, I was looking for interesting places that were necessary to visit.

The first thing we did upon arrival was drive around the still sleepy city. The area is small but cozy. There is a feeling of being back home. At the same time, there were so many interesting things here that one day was not enough for a full excursion.

Lively and crowded city of Lviv

First we went to the coffee shop "Kava zi Lvova" and enjoyed aromatic coffee with cherry pie. Very cozy place.

Walking around the city, every now and then we came across tour guides. We decided that we didn’t want to spend one single day aimlessly, so we took a tour of the city, cathedrals and dungeons of Lviv.

Incredible cathedral architecture

By lunchtime the guide was already waiting for us. We listened to the history of the city, even wandered into the dungeon. Without noticing it, we walked around half of Lviv.

The excursions were conducted in Ukrainian, but you could also ask for them in Russian. We, Belarusians, understand Ukrainian well (besides, in Lviv it is understandable, compared to the local dialects of Transcarpathia), so we did not feel any discomfort.

We visited the famous “Drunken Cherry”, which is located in the very center of the city. We purchased aromatic cherry tincture. The peculiarity of the bar is that before you buy a product, you can try it. Rumor has it that this is a place for single people. Perhaps this is true: it’s quite possible to meet someone over a glass of liquor.

The most original thing in the bar is a chandelier made from bottles of liquor.

Original chandelier made from bottles

The prices were a pleasant surprise. On this day we still managed to climb to the observation deck of the Town Hall. The spiral staircase was so long that at the end of the path they already felt a little dizzy. Entrance was paid: 20 hryvnia. View from observation deck The opening was very beautiful.

We visited the Bernardine Church and Monastery, Lviv opera house, Assumption Church. Unfortunately, it was not possible to go to the castle on the mountain. We decided that we would come back here again in the summer.

The joint project of the site and the magazine “Bolshoy” is airing for the last time: in the fourth part we will talk about whether it is worth traveling to Western Ukraine in winter, namely the Carpathians. More than 2,600 km of run are behind us, the crew has returned home and is dismantling travel notes. We offer motorists a small useful guide- what is worth keeping in mind if you are going to the Carpathians by car.

Reason one. It's safe in Western Ukraine

If someone is too keen on TV, we hasten to disappoint: no one has ever reproached us for speaking Russian. We were never stopped by a traffic cop demanding a bribe. No one has ever checked our documents just like that. There were checks: several times we drove into the border zone and came across border guard posts. They asked for documents extremely politely and correctly, studied them, and let them pass further.

Therefore, you can go on a trip with confidence: everyone you met along the way unanimously stated that there have been much more Russian speakers in recent years, as refugees have arrived. Therefore, you can safely communicate in Russian, in Lviv 50% of the population speaks it, in Hutsul villages no more than 10%, but everyone understands it.

After communicating with government officials - police, border guards, foresters, I got the impression that they became much more polite. They always introduce themselves and communicate as if they were dear guests: locals say this is the trend now. And no one asked for a bribe, which was even impossible to imagine 3 years ago.

Reason two. Cheap in Western Ukraine

The photo shows a cottage in the village of Verkhovyna; we rented it for a day for three people for $17. The overnight stays varied, but even in Bukovel you can find a four-star hotel for $35 per night.

But this is not during the holiday season: on New Year, of course, everything will be more expensive. For the dates December 31 - January 1, almost everything is sold out everywhere: in Bukovel, Lviv, and throughout the Carpathians in general.

The further into the forest, the greater the chances of finding free rooms. But the general trend is this: for 15 dollars for two, either in Lviv or in the Carpathians, you can spend the night with minimal comfort. And after 30 you will already have an acceptable level. For the average market price in Minsk, $100 per room in Ukraine, you will be carried in your arms and your heels tickled with a peacock feather: the cost of overnight stays in Ukraine is much lower than in all our neighboring countries. If you are not traveling on the night from December 31 to January 1, you don’t have to worry about overnight stays in advance: even in a remote village, booking.com will always find a place to stay the night. The hotel business is very developed in the Carpathians, so there is no need to book anything six months in advance.

Anyone who wants to save money can safely consider Western Ukraine: only gasoline is expensive, a dollar per liter. Everything else, food, accommodation, tourism services, is significantly cheaper not only compared to prices in Europe, but also compared to prices in Belarus.

A budget trip to Lviv for the weekend in monetary terms looks like this: about 70 dollars with a reserve for gasoline, 40 dollars a day for food, without denying yourself anything, 25 dollars good hotel. Total for $200 you can get a good performance with gifts, evening entertainment and an overnight stay. If you go in an organized manner, it will be much cheaper: a weekend tour from Minsk with travel and accommodation costs 65-80 dollars. Ski tours in Bukovel they cost from 150 dollars. Taking into account the lack of visas and understanding of the Russian language, this creates an excellent anti-crisis proposal.

Reason three. Western Ukraine is delicious

The level of Ukrainian public catering cannot be compared with the Belarusian: everything is many times better. It’s almost impossible to go wrong with a cafe here: go to any one, almost everywhere will be delicious. Moreover, you don’t have to stand on ceremony with the level of the establishment: even in decent restaurants in Lviv, the price level will be the same as in serious Minsk canteens. Bukovel is the most expensive: there in good restaurant count on $20-25 for dinner for two. All other things being equal, the same order in Minsk will cost 40-45 dollars. It’s just that you can eat cheaper in roadside cafes; for 10 dollars per person you will have a great feast.

At the same time, there are gastronomic differences: closer to Romania and Hungary, the zone of goulash and other Hungarian-Romanian dishes begins. You can hardly find this in Lviv; the cuisine is as close as possible to ours. In the mountains they prefer banosh, a porridge made from corn flour. It’s clear that lard is represented in all forms. But the most important thing: everyone can choose a cuisine to their taste. Business in Ukraine has almost complete freedom, which is why “eco”, “thai”, and Indian cafes are in major cities There are options for every taste.

Reason four. Western Ukraine is beautiful

Let's not forget that the Carpathians are low mountains. Moreover, around almost every peak there are many highways. So if you don't like skiing or don't like bars and restaurants, you can just get a big dose of beauty. To do this, you need to get into a car and drive through the Carpathians. It would be good if the car had all-wheel drive: it often snows in the mountains, so the 4 driving wheels of our Hyundai Creta were very useful. As our expedition showed, if you drive wisely, you can even climb Mount Dragobrat.

We assure you that it is better Carpathian mountains There can only be mountains - those that you have not yet visited. An expedition with the goal of “just looking” is very relevant in the Carpathians, you can simply enjoy nature, and beautiful views will not end.

Reason five: various types of recreation

Who said that the Carpathians are only ski holiday. There are plenty of options for how to relax here. ATV rides are popular: the mountains are old and low, so you can drive almost everywhere on a four-wheeler. A two-day ATV tour through the mountains with meals and overnight stay costs approximately $150. Off-road adventures are the Carpathians. Moreover, even difficult routes are worth trying to overcome on a crossover. An example of this is our “climbing” Mount Dragobrat; using a standard Hyundai Creta, we reached a place where, as they say, only prepared SUVs “go”.

Almost all the Carpathian mountains are dotted with walking routes: You can choose a hike to suit every taste, from a simple walk for an hour to a complex expedition for several days. The Western Carpathians and Ukraine have a tradition of brewing and several dozen varieties of beer in almost every bar. Therefore, beer lovers can safely consider this region for tasting tours. Carpathian liqueurs and tinctures deserve special attention. “Kalganivka”, “gorikhivka” - these words constantly accompanied our expedition. And Transcarpathia, Mukachevo and Uzhgorod can also be considered for a wine tasting tour. There are many varieties of local wine, the quality is not bad.

Transcarpathia is a place where there are a huge number of hot springs. Therefore, if it’s expensive to go to Iceland, you can swim in a geyser in the Carpathians. It is also worth trying “vat bathing”. This is also a local feature: instead of a bath, locals offer to take a steam bath in a hot vat. In the fresh air, with a view of the mountains - this thing is sometimes stronger than Chopin's nocturnes.

What is especially noticeable and remarkable in these parts is the friendliness of the people: they are approachable and ready to help with advice. It’s also easy to breathe in the mountains, the air is different from ours, and the environment is also a plus.

But a trip to the Carpathians also has its downsides. You can’t go to the Carpathians if you’re taking care of your car’s suspension. The road from Minsk to Lvov is beautiful. If you really take care of your car’s suspension, after crossing the border, head towards Lutsk and Rivne to arrive at the M-06 highway. Then you can even drive a Ferrari without the risk of spilling a cup of water.

But most importantly, you can safely trust the navigator to guide you through your gardens. The roads have become better, so you can safely drive directly to Lviv without fear of leaving your tire in a huge hole. The Minsk-Lviv route is safe for car suspension.
But it gets worse: the closer you get to the Carpathians, the worse the roads. If you go to Bukovel, there will be no problems. In an ordinary passenger car with a delicate aluminum suspension, I probably wouldn’t risk it. In the provinces, in the villages, the roads are still similar to the directions

You can’t go to the Carpathians if you want to refuel cheaper. Fuel is more expensive than in Belarus, and this must be taken into account. On average, a dollar per liter. Perhaps this will become a stumbling block for some. In Russia, fuel is cheaper, but the distances are different there. In any case, we recommend filling up a full tank before crossing the border with Ukraine.

You can't go to the Carpathians at night. Remembering the cons car trip in the Carpathians, the entire crew of the expedition remembered the night walkers in unison.

In Ukraine, it is not mandatory to wear flickers at night, while many pedestrians feel like terminators: they wander along the road along an arbitrary trajectory, fearing nothing. You can notice them only at the very last moment. Therefore, if you don’t want problems, it’s better to move only during the day.

You cannot go to the Carpathians if you are obsessed with politics. If someone decides to travel to Western Ukraine, it is unlikely that this person will pay attention to political strife. But we still need to warn you that OUN/UPA symbols are everywhere here. Stepan Bandera is a national hero, and you need to be prepared for this. We have never seen fanatics with flags and shouts, but there are a lot of symbols, it will hurt the eyes of opponents of Ukrainian independence. And there is no need to prove to Western Ukrainians the opposite political point of view: they consider everything that is happening to be a war, many people have died, so it is better not to start these conversations. Not because there will be consequences - but because you will hurt people.

To sum it all up: go to car trip By Western Ukraine Can. There were more arguments for than arguments against. The main disadvantage of such a trip is the bad roads in the province: if you decide to explore remote villages, be prepared for directions, not roads. The main roads have become much better, so Lviv is ideal as a weekend city. A trip directly to the Carpathians can be a great adventure: the mountains are beautiful in winter, so we promise you a wealth of photographs and emotions. You can understand what awaits the car traveler from the links to previous parts of the project.

Read, study: we traveled the route Minsk - Lviv - Verkhovyna - Bukovel - Mukachevo - Minsk and were very pleased. We recommend it to everyone.

And finally, a video about how it happened.

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