Modern yacht with your own hands. Construction of a megayacht from “A to Z”. First steps. Homemade towing generator

Can't imagine your life without the water element? If you want to have a pleasant and useful time, ensure yourself an exciting period in life by starting to build a yacht.

Preface

If you prepare for the process of building a yacht carefully and with great enthusiasm, then the hour will come when you triumphantly board your vessel to set off on its first voyage across the waters.

First, you need to select a project, having previously studied as much literature as possible on the topic of interest.

Bright prospects

By actively searching for the optimal design, you will speed up the time of construction of the yacht. It will change the usual course of your life and allow you to discover new perspectives and horizons. You can go to romantic trip or arrange unforgettable days family vacation, invite friends or indulge in reflection alone, communicating only with the blue element.

After building the yacht, you will have a great ride, you will be able to dive from the side of the ship into safe haven, taking scuba gear with you. You can water ski or just go fishing for fun.

New spaces and shores will reveal their secrets to you.

Where to start

When selecting drawings of plywood structures, pay attention to the presence of information such as:

• knot drawings;
• drawing details;
• a description of the assembly technique, which will be accessible even to beginners.

Many men are familiar with dreams of a yacht to conquer expanses of water. Not everyone can afford to build a fiberglass yacht. This does not mean that wishes are not destined to come true. You need to make an effort, spend time, study yacht construction projects, but as a result you will be able to create a masterpiece that will surpass expensive ships in quality and beauty.

You don’t have to start with large-scale projects, but make a simple product. Then you can understand the principle of creating a yacht and implement it in full size.

About the features of the building

To implement the construction plan motor yacht there are two ways. It is much easier to carry out the main process if you first perform as much preparatory work as possible to create blanks. It is more difficult to work from scratch.

In the modern shipbuilding market there are many specialized companies offering varieties of such assembly kits, which include a list of necessary parts. The motor yacht will be built directly from these.

To ensure that everything is done correctly, the blanks are accompanied by detailed instructions and drawings. In addition, it is important to know about the correct assembly and strict adherence to the manufacturing technology of the vessel.

Choosing an option with purchased blanks

If you decide to purchase ready-made elements and assemble a yacht from them, you will be interested to know that pre-sale preparation is carried out for all parts.

As a rule, the model is completely assembled in production to check the quality of fastening of the connections and compliance with the dimensions, and then the vessel is disassembled, packaged and sent to the customer. The buyer will have to go through the assembly process again and be sure to glue the structure as specified in the manufacturer's recommendations. To do this, you will need to carefully study the information provided on building a yacht with your own hands.

Choosing a more difficult path

If you decide to work with the independent construction of yachts and boats from scratch, it will be much more difficult. But no less interesting. It’s just that with such a choice of actions, everything will depend on your attentiveness and skills. If you are well prepared and armed with a wealth of knowledge, building a yacht yourself can be more profitable for your budget.

Do not forget also that to create a vessel yourself you will need special equipment.

Stages of building a ship from scratch

First of all, when building yachts, make sure there is a spacious room where the process of creating a masterpiece, called a boathouse among professionals, will take place. Purchase the necessary tools and equipment. It’s better not to skimp on this, because you want to get a high-quality result. In addition, the amount of time that can be spent with decent equipment of the workplace is important.

Assemble the slipway according to the size of the vessel. This is where its installation will take place. In the process of creating a platform, coniferous timber beams are laid on a section of flat, prepared surface. This is done in rows of two, followed by bandaging the structure and obtaining a surface that will be located exactly horizontally.

Continuation of work

Take care of preparing project documentation. Its independent development is practically impossible for an inexperienced specialist. In order not to risk materials and the final result, it is recommended to entrust the production of project documentation to specialized organizations.

The Internet is also at your service around the clock, where you can study not only drawings, but also the design of yachts, read useful information and reviews from experienced people on this issue.

Preparing materials

Prepare lumber. This is a very important stage of construction work, since the better it is organized, the higher the strength and navigability of the future yacht will be.

To create a structure, select two types of lumber: from knot-free softwood boards and timber from a harder species (oak, ash).

It is important that the wood moisture level is no more than 12-20%, which provides protection against deformation. On the slipway, mark the line of the stem and the theoretical position of the frame frame. According to these signs, installation work will be carried out on all structural elements of the vessel.

Assembly

The frame frames can be assembled and glued in accordance with the contour of the vessel. This is done on a special type of device, which is a template.

Creating a frame frame

Apply work area marks to 10 to 12 mm thick plywood. If you want to simplify the problem, create closed frames containing below-deck beams.

When assembling a frame frame that has a transverse shear-bar, use special screws. For assembly, provide yourself with special stops that will fix the position of the frame depending on the initial markings.

Please note that when forming all bulkheads, it is necessary to combine them with the frame frame, and sometimes even replace it. To install the stem blank, it is important to maintain the dimensions of the angle of inclination relative to the horizon.

To assemble the keel beam, select the beams and attach them to the surface of the stem with a button, and to the surface of the floors with screws and glue.

To make stringers, select glued pine slats and install them on the surface of the stem and frames with self-tapping screws and glue.

The installation of stringers ends with a mandatory chalking procedure, which is performed to identify all inconsistencies with the contours of the vessel and eliminate defects.

When creating the hull skin, take bakelized plywood sheets and cut it according to the template. Then they are mounted with stringers on glue and self-tapping screws, recessing them slightly inside the plywood.

Checking the quality of work

The installation of the cladding is completed, now it is necessary to carry out a series of control measurements of the contours and treat the surface over an area of ​​a single radius.

To remove it, you must use an abrasive tool. To give rigidity and tightness to the surface, the casing must be covered in several layers with glass fabric of the T1-GVS-9 brand. For this purpose, an epoxy composition is used.

When the first layer has hardened, the surface is covered with fiberglass fabric with a polyester resin base. Do this for up to ten layers.

Stacking the deck

Having turned over the base of the yacht, they proceed to the longitudinal construction of the deck, where the installation of the deck flooring is carried out. To ensure that the layers are strong and airtight, it is important to glue the body with fiberglass, alternating it with epoxy and polyester binders.

Sanding and priming

When all layers have hardened, it is necessary to sand and prime the resulting surface. To carry out painting work, a special moisture-resistant paint is selected that will provide maximum protection from sea water. Then the surface is forced to dry.

Final stage

All that remains is to complete the interior finishing and install additional equipment and a complex of sailing weapons. These procedures are carried out when the final stage of construction work has arrived. If you want your yacht to have a power plant, contact specialists. This stage is especially important, as it requires extra baggage knowledge.

Assembling a yacht using blanks

If you decide to quickly achieve results and not take risks when performing all construction work from scratch, purchase factory-made yacht blanks and assemble the vessel yourself, following the recommendations for building a yacht using an assembly kit. This is similar to assembling a construction set, only more responsible and requires clarity and ensuring the reliability of all fasteners.

Preparing documentation

Before starting work, it is also important to carefully study all the documentation provided in order to avoid serious mistakes that may be irreparable in the end. Explore yacht designs for self-build.

Assemble the yacht, starting by first connecting the frames and keel. A satisfactory result will be shown if it is possible to assemble this structure in the form of a permanent connection.

Vessel plating

Install springers on the frames. The ship's hull material, consisting of special type moisture-resistant plywood.

Please note that this assembly requires a traditional position. It is required to install the vessel with the keel up. This will allow you to achieve the required level of dimensional accuracy. You can also create the shape of the ideal contour of the vessel.

Thanks to the sheathing made of a special type of plywood, which is resistant to moisture, high strength is ensured in the construction of the vessel.

To ensure sealing, fiberglass can be used. It will be mounted on the surface of a special moisture-resistant epoxy composition. Gluing is performed in several layers. After everything has dried, a uniform, waterproof surface will be obtained.

To ensure an attractive appearance and create additional protection, treat the surfaces with special varnishes and waterproof paints.

To paint the inside of the yacht, you will also need waterproof paint. After this you can lay the deck.

Carrying out tests

The final stage of work consists of completing the final finishing of the hull, equipping the vessel with the necessary equipment and sailing equipment. Testing in a working environment is imperative. This is a necessary condition in order to ensure safety and identify the seaworthiness of the vessel. It is important to eliminate some shortcomings and shortcomings in a timely manner.

Afterword

To build a complete vessel, you need to be prepared to perform a large volume of work with an increased level of responsibility.

Provided that it is used correctly and has proper care, it will delight its owners for a long period.

Discover versatility amazing world nature, enjoy your travels. But if you are not ready to build a real yacht, you can think about building a model yacht with your own hands. This will create a foundation of knowledge to understand how a yacht works, and will ensure a thorough study of the technology, because you will be able to consider designs of boats and yachts for self-build. Make up your mind - and everything will work out for you.

The toolbox is located on the salon sofa, electric screwdrivers are at hand, soldering irons and wrenches are on the table. Usually such a cozy salon looks like in winter and spring, rather, like some kind of miniature workshop or amateur workshop. It will still be several months before most yachts set sail again and sail to new harbors. To pass the time until the next trip, many yacht owners use the cold season to carry out work on improving, repairing and improving the yacht.

"It's just my hobby", tells us Armin Horn. The Swabian-born fell in love with yachting ten years ago and began studying all aspects of sailing in Croatia.

Along with navigation, trimming and anchoring, he learned that his skills with a soldering iron and screwdriver could be applied to a new hobby.

Before becoming a university teacher, Armin Horn was engaged in developments for a German engineering company, so the “idea generator,” as he calls himself, has all the conditions for implementing innovations on his yacht.

“When something on the yacht bothers me, I think about what the optimal solution might look like.”,” the innovator explains his approach. It checks whether a corresponding solution is already commercially available. Often you have to make something yourself.

Before starting work in the workshop, Horn creates a plan and breaks down tasks into many small steps. “Thanks to this, I can have a little success on the yacht every day and don’t feel like the work is a burden,” says the resourceful yacht owner Bavaria 37.

Preparation is essential to the success of a project. When he is going to Turkey, where his yacht is located, he pedantically goes through all the items on the list. Has everything been thought out? Can everything be implemented on board? Does the yacht have the necessary tools? He always sets himself the goal of making the necessary part at home, and only performing its installation on the yacht, since “at home I have much better conditions and more time. And in the end my main goal is to sail».

Precise planning and careful work ensure that everything on the yacht is in exactly the right place. Often the inventions made by Horn are indistinguishable from parts made by the yacht manufacturer. The cutlery drawer located under the salon table looks like it was installed in a shipyard. “On a yacht you can very quickly do and drill a lot of unnecessary things”“,” Horn shares his experience and advises starting with small innovations and gradually adding something new.

Armin Horn has another piece of advice that he also gives to his students: “You should be able to work with tools yourself, solder, tinker, and find a suitable hobby if possible. This way you will accumulate the knowledge gained during independent work, and you will get to know the practice better than if you just studied the theory!”

Armin Horn's ideas on how to make a yacht more comfortable

Impeller inspection window

The engine temperature jumps, and white smoke pours out of the exhaust pipe at the stern: classic impeller failure. After opening the pump housing, debris falls out of it, and the individual blades are no longer there. Often no one bothers to check the impeller regularly. While you open the pump cover, you will dislocate your arms, and even then you won’t be able to handle it with your two hands - you need an assistant to check the impeller.

A plexiglass lid five millimeters thick will completely replace a metal lid. Before each departure to sea, all you need to do to check it is just to take a look - and no wrenches or screwdrivers. However, accurate inspection of individual blades still requires removal of the cover.

Deck washing device

The anchoring device carries mud, algae and starfish onto the deck, which often resembles a spilled fish tank once the anchor is raised. Deck cleaning can be simplified by installing a pressurized water connection in the anchor locker. Using a 2-way valve, the pump can optionally supply seawater or process water from tanks. A hose goes from the pump to a built-in connector with a company auto-stop Gardena, located in the anchor box, on which a suitable connecting element is installed.

Homemade towing generator

Sailing at night, reeling in miles, and dropping anchor in secluded bays is the dream of many yachtsmen. However, battery power hinders this desire for freedom. Signal lights, GPS and electronic autopilot completely drain the battery on board. There are some alternative options on the market that allow the boater to get by long time without a fifth mooring line. With some technical skills, you can build your own towing generator.

Should be added: constructing a towing generator is accessible to “advanced” tinkerers who also have a workshop for making parts from V4A (seawater resistant steel).

Protective box for body sensors

Before starting the transition, you need to place milk cartons, canned food and water bottles somewhere. However The luggage compartment often remains empty: There is too great a fear that as a result of sliding elements of equipment or provisions, the log and lot sensors may be damaged or even torn off. But the transition should not end somewhere at the bottom of the sea.

A wooden box will protect the sensors and prevent damage. Using a hinge and a magnet, the box can be tilted up and locked.

Anchor weighted with lead

When you try to drop the anchor for the third time, and it does not cling to the bottom and drags along the sand of the bay, swearing is heard on the deck. In this case it may help additional weighting of the anchor.

When using a plow anchor, the inner side can be filled with lead. A pre-soldered V4A steel plate will prevent lead from flowing back out. After this, the center of gravity of the anchor will be much deeper. But remember that making changes to the anchor structure is always risky.

Flushing the motor

Old marine diesel engines often present a pitiful picture when examined in detail. Cooling sea ​​water over many years it leads to corrosion; rust eats through the metal. During long-term operation, using a simple device, fresh water can be supplied to the cooling circuit instead of sea water.

A tee is installed in the connection for supplying salt water. Through a hose with a tap and a connecting element, by closing the sea water supply valve, you can supply fresh water from any source.

Anchor LED light

The anchor light on the top is usually clearly visible from afar. But when the yacht makes its way through the bay at night, he is almost invisible. If you attach an LED anchor light to the halyard, it will be clearly visible to approaching vessels.

Seat back

What is always important in a stern railing is the ability to rest your back comfortably while swimming. But the cold metal presses on your back, and after a while you have to give up such “comfort”. Such a fence is inconvenient. It will be much more pleasant to lean on if there is a teak wood plank under your back.

Steel spring

We rummage through lockers in search of something, supporting the lid with our heads - this picture is familiar to yacht owners all over the world. It is more convenient to use gas springs. However, for use below decks, such as under upholstered salon sofas, they are too weak because they cannot support the weight. An alternative is long steel springs that hold the lid securely open. To close the locker, the spring is folded and the lid is lowered.

Steering Wheel Mount

Often when sailing in a harbor, the helm is blocked, so there is usually no crew in the rear aft seat at the time. Most yachtsmen are hesitant to remove the helm in port due to the complexity of this operation.

This will be easier if the helm nut is replaced with a teak wing nut with a threaded insert. The teak nut should be large enough to be easily tightened and unscrewed by hand.

Cutlery drawer

It is discovered too late that there is no spoon on the table. The captain slides off the sofa, accidentally pushes the table, and the red wine in the glass almost spills out. Finally we are in the galley, the spoon is found, and the captain crawls back to his place.

A drawer for cutlery located under the salon table will save you from such artistic tricks and possibly from red wine stains.

Bed slats

Moisture under bunks can lead to mold and unpleasant odors. Nobody wants to go to bed that smells musty. There are some systems available on the market that provide adequate ventilation and greatly enhance sleep comfort.

If you don’t turn to yacht fitting specialists, you can find everything you need in a Swedish furniture store. The convenient slatted grille consists of curved slats and tape that secures the slats in place.

Over time, the beds become thinner. Since the slats always remain curved, when sawing them you just need to take into account the required length. You will be able to sleep much more comfortably, and you can simply forget about mold and unpleasant odors on board.

Martin Erger's advice on how to make a yacht more comfortable

Additional luggage space in the form of shelves

Luggage space on board is never superfluous: it is necessary, for example, to store staples and bezels in a safe place or to prevent bottles of wine from rolling around on the floor of the hold. A significant portion of the space on board is not fully utilized. Using wood, saw and not large quantity varnish, such a space can be arranged to your advantage, for example, by installing an additional shelf or bottle holder in the cabin.

LED lighting in the mast groove

Pleasant lighting in the cockpit should not be blinding or look like a construction spotlight. An original solution is an LED lamp located in the groove of the main mast, which illuminates the cockpit from above - provided that there is also a groove on the lower part of the main mast into which an LED strip can be glued.

Liberation of Genoa

The genoa is stuck to the railing, the afterlik is caught on the saling or is slowly rubbing. The special deflector rings are very flimsy and unimpressive. A golf ball with a hole drilled in it can work well for a sail. The hole in the ball must be large enough to slide it along the shroud or guardrail cable, and the tie bands secure it in place. The sail glides along the fence and does not get stuck on the saling.

Mosquito protection

You want to ventilate the yacht well in the summer and not attract the attention of buzzing tormentors - this sounds like a utopia. Either the companionway has to be locked, and then the yachtsman faces a stuffy, sleepless night, or he will spend it fighting mosquitoes. An inserted bulkhead with a large mosquito net will ensure air flow into the cabin and keep mosquitoes out.

Wide teak steps

At some point it becomes painful: no one can stand barefoot on the rungs of a bathing ladder for a long time, at most, only a few seconds. It is much more pleasant to feel the wide teak steps under your feet. They can be additionally installed on the yacht, even without the help of specialists, since inexpensive remnants of teak wood material can often be found for sale, for example, on special Internet platforms. The steps are attached to the rungs using bolts.

Compact ute fork

Utah plug greatly simplifies folding of the mast for a small crew. The shackle, which runs from the top shroud attachment points to the forestay attachment point, is the largest piece of equipment on board.

Utah plug It does not fit in the locker and cannot be taken home with you in the car. Often the fork cannot be taken apart. As an option, a homemade design is offered from 40 mm tubes made of VA steel, with a wall thickness of 5 mm, which can be divided into separate insert segments using a 30 mm (inner diameter of the tube) bolt.

Tips from Klaus Kubel on how to make a yacht more comfortable

Using the belt

Steering a yacht to windward can quickly become the defining moment of a voyage. The rope of the guardrail presses unpleasantly into your back, and every minute you involuntarily have to change position. The use of straps in the cockpit area will provide painless control on the windward side. However, handrails should not be used as belt attachment points. Either they need to be further strengthened, or the entire pull must be taken on by a shortened guardrail cable.

Outboard motor holder

It begins to malfunction, works normally again and, in the end, abandons the yachtsman to his fate a few miles from the port - the internal engine has served its purpose. Such a situation during calm weather can seriously ruin your nerves. You can continue the movement of the yacht using an inflatable boat with an outboard motor attached along the side.

If the inflatable boat is at the very bottom of the locker, there is another, less labor-intensive way to quickly engage the outboard motor. Two U-shaped profiles are attached to the board, which are installed at a distance between the two rungs of the bathing ladder. If necessary, such a holder can be hung from the profiles on the stairs. The outboard motor is mounted on a board, which will allow you to bring the yacht to the port.

Kisa

Staples, pulleys and ropes often end up scattered along with clamps and screw sets throughout the locker. Often the staple is not available at exactly the right time. The result is a long period of digging in the locker. Over the years, a bag (kisa) made of fabric or canvas has proven itself well. Internal pockets store pins and piles, and the main space is large enough for ropes, pulleys and guards. The cord that tightens the bag prevents the equipment from falling out.

Tips from Anya and Andreas Zabel on how to make a yacht more comfortable

To avoid tripping over shoulder straps

The shoulder strap in the center of the cockpit blocks the passage, and when the yacht is in the harbor, you have to climb over it. Re-equipment of the shoulder strap to ensure the possibility of its dismantling is a simple task. To do this, two U-shaped profiles, closed at the top, are mounted in the cockpit at the same height opposite each other. The fasteners must be strengthened with a counter-plate, otherwise the device will not withstand high traction forces. The fixing bolt prevents the shoulder strap from falling out.

Clearance

The use of a large amount of wood in the salon of relatively older yachts gives them a solid appearance. However, going down the companionway, you often find yourself in a dark cave. Large windows on top of older yachts are rare. The light source here can be the sliding hatch of the companionway. A plexiglass window is inserted flush into it, through which light enters the cabin when the hatch is closed. At the beginning and end of the season, the interior remains warm without being too dark.

Advice from Ralf Schwannecke on how to make a yacht more comfortable

Durability and good appearance

Time also leaves its traces on the bow hatch of the yacht. After a few years, the glass becomes cloudy and becomes scratched. It no longer attracts the eye, and it also becomes difficult to look through it. The old glass can be removed from the frame, and the frame itself can be cleaned of silicone residues. Then we glue in the new glass using MS polymer.

The hatch can be given modern look, using a yacht name decal, some epoxy and sugar to create the structure.

Today, a real yachtsman should feel freedom and happiness when riding a yacht. This feeling is provided by riding on water, where there is a fresh wind, space and sun.

Only such feelings are experienced by people who independently operate yachts. You can ride on a yacht with friends or family to show them a sense of joy and freedom. Many yachtsmen take part in races that leave unforgettable memories.

Yacht designs for self-build must have high-quality operational features. There are many different reservoirs, lakes and rivers in Russia. Most of the country mainly lives winter time. IN summer time Strong winds and rains constantly blow. Based on weather conditions, the yacht must have features that will withstand these factors.

Here we looked at .

An analysis of Open800 yacht racing shows that basically all bodies of water are shallow and there are no moorings for yachts. But along the entire coast there are parking lots for motor boats.

For this reason, a DIY yacht design must have a lifting keel that can be raised while underway. Such a keel will allow you to park the yacht for motor boats.

The yacht must have a trailer. A trailer with a yacht will allow you to maintain ease of transportation and storage in winter. Launching should not take a lot of time, and it also does not require electricity or any tools.

In order for the trailer not to cause effort and difficulty, the yacht should not be large and light. Also, such criteria make it easy to tow a yacht by car without having a special category on your driver’s license. A yacht performs many different functions. Therefore, the types of yachts are very different. On a yacht you can either calmly stroll around the pond or organize various competitions.

If the construction of a yacht is intended for walking, then it must have a cockpit. For long trips, the yacht must be equipped with storage space for food and clothing. For high-speed yachts, it is necessary to provide for speed characteristics, and, if possible, equip them with a special handicap system.

Yacht projects

Today there are several main types of yacht projects.

1. Micro cruiser. This type of yacht is intended for trips on lakes and rivers. They can also be used in races or for daily walks. This type of yacht is also called a dinghy. To operate a dinghy, you must have driving experience. This yacht is very difficult to control, as its length can reach up to 5.5 meters.
2. Open The yacht is very large and is intended for racing and cruising on water bodies. For beginners, the yacht may be difficult to navigate. Open800 has a deep draft, which is intended for deep waters.
3. Laser SB3 or Melges 20. This yacht is considered imported and, as a rule, is intended only for racing. Has sailing functions.

Based on the projects reviewed, we can conclude that a yacht that will be built by hand must have special functions.

A yacht requires a trailer that can be easily transported by car. The yacht must have a lifting keel, which will have lifting functions while underway. The keel should be located under the engine. The yacht must have a place for a shelter deck and for placing clothes or small tiles. The engine should have an engine displacement of 2.5 to 3 liters per second. The yacht must have good performance and ease of operation.

The sail area should reach up to 22 sq.m. Such an area will allow you to steer the yacht, even if the “yacht helmsman” has minimal sailing qualifications. The appearance should have modern qualities. The housing should have strong and durable features that will not require constant maintenance. The yacht must have a variety of additional equipment. Equipment for construction must have category 4, for longer operation.

The ideal option for building it yourself would be a yacht that is designed for 3-5 people. This version of the yacht is suitable for both walking and racing. The length of the yacht should be no more than 7 meters, the sail area should be from 14 to 20 sq.m. Various sail options will help increase the total sail area in calm winds, and increase it in strong winds. As a rule, shipbuilders take ready-made sails from old yachts. It is very difficult to obtain fabric for a sail on your own. Sewing yourself requires extensive experience.

The spar is made of light alloy pipes. The boom must rotate in any direction so that the sails can be retracted during mooring or reefing. The mast step should be located on the roof of the cabin.

The body can be made from various types of wood. Can also be used various types steel or light alloy. With low weight, the combined use of wood and steel will make it possible to produce a more durable and high-quality body. Today, many shipbuilders cover the hull with fiberglass. Fiberglass fabrics protect the body from rotting and increase the level of strength. Usually, when building a yacht themselves, shipbuilders cover the hull with only one layer of fiberglass. Experts recommend setting up several layers. Two or three layers of fiberglass prevent the passage of water into microcracks.

One of the most famous yacht building projects is "Sea horse". Reviews from professional shipbuilders say that when building this yacht it is necessary to increase the fin area. The location of the deckhouse over the entire side area will increase the level of comfort of the cabin. This arrangement of the deckhouse will also increase the area of ​​the cabin. Walking on the deck becomes much freer.

Mini yacht project "Halt" made from pine. The beams and stem must be made of oak. The yacht is sheathed with bakelized plywood, the thickness of which should not exceed 7 millimeters. The timber on board should have dimensions of 40x40, which will increase the width of the deck by 80 millimeters. The mini-yacht “Prival” has a Bermuda sloop, which is equipped with a top jib. The yacht has good sailing performance. The author of the project plans to make some improvements to the construction of the yacht. Kili will need to be replaced with bulbikili, which reach up to 140 kilograms.

Before building a yacht with your own hands, do not forget that this project entails large financial investments. You also need to have free time. Before starting construction, you need to decide on the type of yacht and resolve several issues. It is very important to determine in advance what purposes the yacht will be intended for.

Professional shipbuilders recommend choosing Soviet-era projects. The project must also be approved by the supervisory service. The ideal option for building a yacht would be a project that has technical support. To build such a project, it is necessary to have professional knowledge of naval architecture. If you don’t have such knowledge, then it’s better to select a ready-made project.

Today on the Internet there are many sites that provide the opportunity to use a variety of yacht construction projects. On the site everyone can find the best option. Each project has its own pricing policy and purpose. Also, some projects already have ready-made kits. You can choose not only the project, but also the various necessary equipment and tools.

If the project already has a kit, then all you need to do is assemble the yacht correctly according to the instructions. First you need to properly study the drawings and plans. It is necessary to pay great attention to the study of drawings, as mistakes may be made later. The drawings indicate dimensions and parameters. The instructions describe step by step the process of building a yacht and what tools need to be used. After following the instructions, you will be able to enjoy your self-built yacht.

• After building the yacht, it is imperative to check the operational functions.
• The yacht must be used in the most extreme conditions in order to test the quality and efficiency of the construction. Such a test allows you to notice shortcomings that may have been made during construction. If the yacht has no defects, then it must be registered.
• This procedure is mandatory, since without registration you do not have the right to use it. Registration is carried out at the state inspection. Such branches are located in all regions. You can also get here detailed information about the registration procedure.

You can build a yacht with your own hands even without experience. The sites provide the opportunity to develop an individual project that will allow you to build a unique yacht.

Design support services are provided for project development. Experts will provide the necessary advice and recommendations. An individual project will allow you to independently create diagrams, drawings and instructions. Professionals will help you develop the project correctly so that operational functions are carried out correctly.

Such a project will have individual qualities and properties. Independent choice material will increase the strength level of the yacht. The appearance of the yacht will have a unique design. The independent location of the cabins and their dimensions are also being developed.

I already spoke once about the cost of construction, but it seems that half were very skeptical about this. The amount I indicated turned out to be almost 20 (!) times less than the factory price of this yacht, which cannot but cause distrust. On the other hand, another half was overcome by optimism - a yacht can be built “for free”, out of nothing and from scratch. Both are wrong and the truth is somewhere in between. To clear the fog from this area, I propose to look at the construction process now from the financial side.

I entered all my expenses into the computer and today I can answer the above question with sufficient accuracy. Since the cost directly depends on the materials used, I will digress on this topic. I will indicate prices in dollar equivalent at the exchange rate at the time of purchase, since the construction crisis of 1998 and the denomination caught me during the construction. Materials for the construction of the yacht were purchased as needed, but I will give only the final figures, since that is what we are talking about.

Boathouse. In front of us is an empty space on which we need to build a slipway and erect some kind of structure so that water and slanting rain (at a minimum) do not get on the hull. I planned to build the building in a very short time and did not intend to erect a permanent structure. As you can see in the photo, the structure resembles a greenhouse and it is not able to withstand a snowy winter.

Nevertheless, calculations according to the estimate indicate that the cost of lumber for this openwork structure, coupled with PE film (enough for a season) is approximately $100. You can build something more solid, but you must take into account that when turning the body over with a crane, the structure will have to be destroyed 😦 . Of course, when choosing a location, think about the entrances for this mechanism, remembering that what scares them most of all is any live wire :)

Lumber. The knotless pine was selected personally at the sawmill, after which it was dried at home for a month and a half to reach working humidity. A little more than two cubic meters passed through me (including the previous point) and it cost me $160. If you focus on construction sites and the line “Knot-free, dry pine,” then this figure can increase significantly because it costs about $200 per cubic meter. You can reduce it by intercepting the boards before the dryer, or best of all directly at the saw.

Unfortunately, we don’t cut oak here, so we had to buy it in St. Petersburg at a price of $300-600 per cubic meter. It was used to make all the floors, stem, transom, centerboard well, tiller and various linings. Where there was “ash” in the project, I replaced it with the same oak to reduce the hassle. Accordingly, 0.15 cubic meters and $70.

Plywood. The main material was planned to be FSF 6 mm, but at the beginning of construction I looked at the warehouses of a furniture factory and purchased there quite inexpensively a certain amount of FSF 4 mm and 10 mm. This was the best AAV variety, but due to microscopic defects they were rejected and the price was very attractive. Don’t let the thickness of 4 mm bother you, because as usual I glued them with epoxy into a sandwich with a “six” to get 10 mm. To reduce the cost, I purchased the “Six” directly from the Fanplast plant from the Central Research Institute of Plywood, taking it out on a passing car.

Total: 29 sheets of 6 mm, 15 sheets of 4 mm and 6 sheets of 10 mm. In monetary terms, all this amounted to $200. I must admit that I was also “given” two sheets of 10 mm FBV plywood measuring 1500 x 4700, which I used on the floor trims, well, transom, rudder blade, cockpit and deck in its area. Taking into account my delving into this area, I would not recommend getting involved in it, especially in its current form.

Fasteners I mean brass screws. There are about 5 thousand of them in the case, totaling about $200. The screws are very different - from 30 mm for sheathing to 75 mm for longitudinal set. Basically, the country of origin was Türkiye and I have no complaints about this. In contrast to the three hundred Soviet screws purchased at the shipyard at the end of construction, the head of which easily fell apart under the “cross” from the force of screwing.

Now there is a tempting opportunity to purchase stainless steel fasteners (especially since the price is the same), but something confuses me about this issue. I read a lot about this from Western “colleagues”, and they speak very poorly about it and provide terrible photos. There were even references to some American regulatory documents (one for the shipbuilding industry, the other for the chemical industry), which prohibit the use of stainless fasteners without sufficient access to oxygen (and, oddly enough, this primarily applies to high grades, such as “marine” 316- Ouch) .

In one she even spoke personally epoxy resin This is also hinted at by the fact that companies offering do-it-yourself kits (there can be any sizes) also do not offer the option of stainless fasteners - either bronze or galvanized. Regarding the latter, it is specifically stated that this is not galvanizing, but tinning.

They also criticize brass for its low strength, but in my experience with Turkish fasteners, it breaks from the force of twisting, and not from breaking. And if there was a preliminary hole, then with a delayed reaction and working with a drill, the head can easily be driven into half the thickness of the FSF. I believe that in dry wood (and I myself have dust and spiders in my hold) nothing will happen to stainless steel.

On the other hand, when the body is assembled with resin and covered with fabric, the fasteners serve more of a pressing function and the only advantage of stainless steel is that there is no need to drill holes in the pine. More about stainless steel. fasteners, I can only add that its marking A2 means “simply” stainless steel (rust-free), and A4 means acid-resistant (acid-resistant).

Epoxy resin. This is the point where I hear the most criticism, because the amount in this line is so ridiculous and the quantity is frightening that I don’t even want to announce both once again. It’s better to assume that it didn’t cost me anything (but include it in the LMB), and let’s calculate how much it could have cost under other circumstances.

I used the resin not only for construction purposes, but also paid with it, so to speak, “by barter.” I was also constantly engaged in all sorts of experiments in order to understand the essence of the behavior of the object and the possible areas of its application. As a result, a rough estimate suggests 150-200 kg of resin. Naturally, the main part of it was spent on pasting the body, the details of which I previously described and whether all this was necessary is still a moot point.

I immediately reject the option of purchasing resin in hardware stores, although not so long ago I learned about a man who built a dinghy using this method. As a basis, I will take the price at which the resin is offered by companies producing epoxy paints and varnishes. That is, they mix enamels, varnishes, primers and putties, but they will also sell you the raw materials. The price of a kilogram of ED-22 resin is about $3. Multiplying by the previously given figures, we have an amount of about $500. I agree, this is a lot, but there are other ways.

When I started building, I also looked for resin everywhere and I found the most attractive source of it in yacht clubs. Let's say, in one of the clubs at the entrance there was such a ledger where advertisements like “buy and sell” were placed. It was full of advertisements for the sale of resin, and the sellers asked for a price that was about half of the, so to speak, official price. The resin itself will most likely not be affected by storage time, but with the hardener the situation is not so smooth and must be dealt with on a case-by-case basis.

But in my situation, instead of laying 7 layers (2 of them are matting), I should have simply sheathed the bottom with a “ten”, where it can be destroyed, while laying 6+4 in the bow. And a layer of three or four fabrics would be enough (although in foreign publications the number “two” usually appears).

Fiberglass. 150 meters of fabric weighing 200-250 grams, 30 meters of glass mat, 40 meters of thin fiberglass. Total amount of $120. Moreover, exactly half is glass mat. If we focus on current retail prices, a meter of suitable fabric costs about a little more than $1, and according to this expense item, the amount can be about $200 (in my case!). I have repeatedly heard that some kind of fiberglass is used to insulate heating mains, and I recently took a walk along the nearest highway.

Well, the assortment there is quite rich, even over a couple of hundred meters - offhand, I would say from 50 to 500 grams (from gauze to roving). One thing I can say for sure is that since it is a fiberglass woven material, it will definitely be better and stronger than any shipbuilding glass mat. If only because the fabric can be easily heat treated and the body covered with it will be more even.

Preliminary result. So, on the slipway there is an 8-meter hull of the yacht, covered with fiberglass and costing about $800. Even if we are pessimistic about resin and fabric, we still can’t get more than one and a half thousand.

Paint and varnish materials. Here I piled up all the chemicals: paints, putties, primers, solvents, sealants and even a couple of buckets of Pinotex. The amount was $150. It took 15 kg of epoxy putty to level the outer surfaces; the entire yacht was painted on the outside with epoxy enamel (EP-5297 "Epovin").

Actually, at first I covered the wheelhouse, deck and freeboard with PF-115 enamel, but after the winter I suddenly discovered that when wintering under an awning, the enamel on the horizontal surfaces began to fall off like burrs (wasn’t that what the “bourgeoisie” warned about?) and I’ll clean it up removed and coated again with epoxy. Everywhere the coating was applied in two layers and it all took about ten kilograms. Epoxy putty is also white, so the coverage of two layers is enough to ensure a smooth surface. Now about the prices.

EP-0010 putty costs less than $2 per kilo, enamel - about $3, and tinting (the same enamel without white pigment) for the bottom - about $4. The same enamel is sold in stores under the name “Enamel for bathtub renovation”. Look at the price and feel the difference :-).

Deck and interior equipment. In order not to split hairs, I will also include here things related to rigging such as blocks, lanyards, ropes, etc. In total, the item “good things” amounts to $260. It, in turn, allocates blocks (Novosibirsk) worth $70 and lanyards worth $50. I took the winches and stoppers from Mikrukha, and dismembered the latter for convenience and economy. Railings and railing cost $80 (20 m of pipe), ballast (6 mm sheet) - a little more. The centerboard cost me practically nothing, but the helm (stock) cost $50. Total - approximately $450.

Spar and sailing equipment. In fact, this is the largest expense item of the project, and before voicing the figure, I will allow myself a digression. Even at the stage of initial research, I looked at the power plant and inquired about the price. They quoted me an amazingly round figure of “one bucks” for making the mast and boom. However, they agreed to sell the profile at a price of approximately $30 per meter.

Given my need for 14 meters (a mast with a joint and a boom), this resulted in more than $500, since the pieces were about six meters long, and they were not going to be cut. Then I walked around the clubs again and read the advertisements, which offered more tempting options. There were quite a lot of such proposals, they just couldn’t find 9.5 m for the mast - at best 9 m and they had nothing for the boom. But I finally found two people.

Of course, in order to save money, it was possible to take a different route - take a pipe and rivet a seal profile (the so-called “butterfly”) to it. In this case, the mast would have cost nothing at all, but I immediately decided for myself that I could afford to spend $500 on a “normal” mast. So, for three six-meter pieces of profile I paid $350. Together with transportation from St. Petersburg and argon welding of aluminum and stainless steel, the mast and boom cost me about $400.

I ordered the sails from Northern Lights. It was after the crisis and I could no longer afford fabric like Dacron. That’s why my genoa and mainsail are made of lavsan (this spring I finally got a Dacron jib) at a price of $10 per square. With an area of ​​15+16 we have $310.

Tool. I started construction with a very poor set of tools, which also wore out or broke. Therefore, this article is also worthy of mention. It took almost a hundred abrasive materials (mostly 70 belts for a sander plus sandpaper and discs for an angle grinder). Metal-cutting and metalworking tools (drills, files, cutters, taps, etc.) - $70. In the article “Power Tools” the figure is $150 for four types of grinding machines and a jigsaw, which I bought myself. I forgot to include another jigsaw, drill and hair dryer there, since relatives added half the cost there. Their cost is approximately known, so we will consider the total for the “Tool” item to be about $400.

Metalworking. The only type of service that I regularly used was the services of a welder. Over the entire period I paid them about $80, half of it for the spar. A couple more times I paid the milling operators, but the amounts there were negligible. Based on my experience and that of those around me, I strongly advise against using the word “yacht” when communicating with the working class. As a last resort, let it be a “boat”.

Weave something about a dacha, a car, a bathroom and save a lot of money. Today, almost any welder can weld stainless steel; for this you need a direct current apparatus (and they don’t seem to have anything else) and appropriate electrodes (but they probably don’t have this). I advise you to simply buy electrodes for stainless steel and in the future approach the nearest hard worker with them.

With a sober state and some experience, the seam will be no worse than when welding in an argon environment. At first I only required argon for all the seams, but one day it wasn’t available and I agreed to the handbrake. The result was such that after that I completely forgot the word “argon” in relation to stainless steel. The cost of both differs significantly.

There is another option - in any car service center (they are now on every corner) there is a semi-automatic welding machine, with which they usually cook in a carbon dioxide environment. All that is required in this case is, again, to buy a roll of special welding wire (stainless steel) for this unit and contact the performers directly...

I performed all the turning work myself on a machine born in 1938. The only “option” he had was the ability to change the speed with a certain skill. Everything else (autofeed, thread, etc.) was faulty.

I don’t think that this will be feasible for many (problems are more likely with placement and 3-phase power supply than with price), and it’s hardly worth striving for. There are such machines all around, right up to secondary schools, and you just need to negotiate access. In any case, the cost will be less than when ordering parts from turning professionals.

Lack of experience is not an obstacle - I didn’t have it either, but I corrected it very quickly. If you decide to go down this path, I advise you to start by acquiring cutters made of material like P18 / HSS, and once you get the hang of it, switch to carbide.

In case of gross errors with the feed, the steel cutter simply becomes dull and is then quickly corrected with sandpaper, while the fragile carbide one breaks down to the point of being beyond repair. It is clear that during “normal” operation the latter require much less sharpening.

Once again I will repeat on the topic of the metals themselves. All this is now on sale, but usually the minimum quantity sold is of unacceptable sizes (and therefore prices). To save as much as possible on this article, you just need to become more attentive to your surroundings, because things that interest us can be found everywhere, even after the chaos of recent years. I advise you to get a small magnet and every time your eye comes across a suspicious shine or lack of rust (where it is logical), feel to see if it is stainless steel. Stainless steel, as a rule, is not attracted to a magnet.

For some reason unknown to me, M8 stainless steel fasteners were used to assemble a hanger in the hallway of our office. A fairly decent sheet of “two” covered a hole in the fence of a neighbor’s garden. Lying in plain sight were two pieces of pipe with flanges containing 52 (!) stainless steel. M12 bolts with nuts. And there are no number of such examples. As a result, the costs for this item are not worth mentioning.

The final result. When breaking down the cost items, I rounded the numbers up, so something may not add up slightly. Maybe I forgot to take into account some little things. However, at the end of the table there is an amount of $2700. This is exactly how much the process of building the yacht cost me. They tell me: what kind of money is this and where can I get it! Well, firstly, we are talking about a yacht 8 meters long and you shouldn’t count on a “freebie” here.

For the sake of decency, remember at least the factory price. Even if this is a lot for you, it may be worth finding something smaller in size and, accordingly, costs. In the end, this final figure does not need to be spent all at once in one day and it does not need to be saved long and hard, like for a car.

Spread out over four and a half years, that works out to about $50 a month. Even with my modest income for the family budget, construction remained unnoticed. Some may still have doubts caused by repeated discrepancies between the two amounts. But this is the easiest way to explain. The table practically does not contain the article “Labor”.

I was too lazy to also count man-hours, but you can do it yourself by adding up all weekends, vacations and two or three hours on weekdays. All this over the course of four and a half years. This is, perhaps, the most expensive aspect of building a yacht in an industrial environment. That is, I again bring everything to the idea that in order to be at the helm of your yacht, there is no need at all to possess sums with a large number of zeros.

All the cases of long-term construction or abandoned construction that I have seen did not have financial roots, but rather moral and psychological ones. You just need to want it and remain confident in the firmness of your desire for several years. Is this a big price? For many, it is too much to bear. But it is no longer convertible in any of the monetary systems and it is up to you to decide whether you will “pull” it. I wish you good luck!

Source: http://activecrimea.com

A long boat in a small room.

Vsevolod Belyaev.

Unfortunately, we are forced to take into account real physical conditions and, setting ourselves a specific task, somehow look for compromises in solving it. And since I old tourist and I perceive tourism not just as a form of recreation or even a sport, but precisely as a way to overcome space in an “environmentally friendly” way, then my problem statement is appropriate, and the design of the vessel - a sailing and rowing boat 6 m long - is focused specifically on it.

As for the construction process itself, I was interested in how little money could be used. In defiance of the opinion that without special computer programs for design, without laying out the plaza, without a slipway and professional tools, nothing will work out. A question that is relevant, perhaps, for all shipbuilders - do-it-yourselfers - how to bring an idea born and existing only in the head to life with minimal costs? After all, folk craftsmen have still built and are building their boats without high technology!

I once talked with one of these craftsmen, and it only took him about two weeks to build a boat from start to finish. Although, in fairness, it must be said that all his boats were of the same type. And, of course, I was inspired by the examples of people like Evgeny Aleksandrovich Gvozdev, who built his “Said”, essentially, on the balcony of a five-story building. I tried to find out what is the minimum required.

My initial conditions were as follows: a 3.5 by 3.0 m room in which I also live, the most ordinary hand tool, a stool as a workbench, time after main work and the limitless patience of my family, for which I am very grateful to them. From these conditions it followed: I could build a full-fledged boat only if it was dismountable, and besides, this would significantly simplify its transportation in the future.

This is how the idea arose to build a collapsible boat, three sections of which would fit one inside the other. Among the significant design features is the absence of a set. The elements of the set include, perhaps, only the end walls of the sections, which play the role of frames (2 pieces per 6 m length); The shaping of the hull and its rigidity were ensured by the destruction of the skin parts.

My “project”, the prototypes of which were, in part, folk boats, partly tourist kayaks, was first drawn on ordinary notebook paper. I made a huge number of these drawings in three projections, without dimensions or specific details. Then, finally, the final look was born, captured in a sketch on graph paper. I think that such a sketch is the first minimally necessary step on the path from an idea to its real implementation. You can do without graphic computer programs and without drawings on Whatman paper, but without a sketch, perhaps, it is impossible. Graph paper is convenient because all the necessary dimensions are immediately visible on it.

I then glued together several test models from paper and cardboard and finally a 1:10 scale cardboard model on which I finally fitted all the body parts. The greatest difficulties were caused by combining parts of different sections of the boat with each other. If the boat were not dismountable, everything would be much simpler.

Creating a large-scale cardboard model, according to which all dimensions could be accurately verified in order to avoid serious mistakes in the future, to see all the shortcomings and shortcomings, to understand the sequence of the upcoming assembly - this is the second necessary step, unless, of course, we are talking about a standard project, where All details and dimensions are well worked out. When the model was finalized, I took the final dimensions from it and transferred them to plywood (the body structure, of course, is plywood-composite). Next I just had to cut out all the parts and connect them together.

Although the lack of a kit had to be compensated for by the thickness of the plywood sheathing (6 mm), this resulted in almost no added weight, but made the body much more shock-resistant. Still, the rigidity of the sheet material was not sufficient to obtain flawless body lines. Now this is not noticeable in the appearance of the boat, and did not affect its seaworthiness or other qualities, but the assembly did not go perfectly - plywood can bend and bend at the most unexpected times and in unexpected places and even produce “bubbles” on relatively small surfaces.

The centerboard well, assembled from two pieces of 3040 cm plywood and pine slats, which during assembly I did not bother to press against a flat flat surface, moved with a screw by about 1 cm. This may be due to uneven shrinkage of the resin, there may be changes in humidity, the conclusion is clear: so that to obtain the lines and surfaces specified by the project, just your own knee is not enough. When building small boats, you can do without a slipway, but a flat floor is still necessary. Here, perhaps, is another minimum necessary condition.

I sewed the covering parts of the central section together with nylon thread and then glued them directly on top with strips of fiberglass on epoxy. The thread, of course, added strength to the connection, but air bubbles tended to form under the fabric, so I hardly won anything. I assembled the remaining two sections in the classic way using wire ties, and then removed the wire. The outside of the sections was covered with fiberglass.

The final assembly and, in fact, the birth of the boat took place near the reservoir. The case turned out to be quite durable, dry, without leaks. The weight of a fully decked boat is 90 kg, despite the fact that the deck can easily support the weight of an adult. Active construction took six months during non-working hours. If you don’t “reinvent the wheel” as much as I did out of curiosity, then it will take much less time.

According to first impressions, the boat handles well and is stable on course. But the propulsion, for which I so extremely, although quite consciously, sacrificed the width of the boat, is in question. But I still have yet to finally understand what happened and how well it meets my requirements. If suddenly the result turns out to be unsatisfactory, well, I’ll build another boat, fortunately it doesn’t require much. Now I know this well!

Source: “Boats and Yachts”, No. 236.

At the same time he studied the theory of yachting. Since 1964, I read KiYa and built small motor boats for the Moskva-10 engine. Fished on the Angara and Baikal. And since 1986, having retired, he traveled along the rivers Kuban, Don and Sea of ​​Azov on a self-built rowing-sailing dory. In 1992, in Kyiv, he built a modernized Dory boat, increasing its length to 6 m, and the whole family traveled along the Dnieper on it. And for the last ten years I have been traveling alone: ​​my son has grown up, and my wife is busy with her own affairs.

However, about the yacht: in August 1999 it was launched quiet Don. The engine used was a stationary “SM557-L” (13 hp, two-stroke, water-cooled). The propeller is a two-blade folding propeller, of unknown origin. Sailing weapons from "Yala-6" rack: the canvas is incredibly heavy, especially when it gets wet. Each navigation suggested new improvements.

Due to the shallow draft and lack of a keel, the yacht could not sail against the wind; I had to drag it by the rope like a horse, and in calm conditions, with a weak current, I rowed for two to three hours. There was no confidence in the engine. I started it no more than two or three times during navigation: roar, noise, smoke, vibration, and the speed was minimal. If time allows, it is better to row - it is also good for your health.

Then I took out the Dacron sails, rigged the boat with a gaff sail and sewed a jib. Sail control moved to the cockpit. Then, along the entire length of the bottom, a 4.5-meter keel with a height of 300 mm was installed; Now the yacht goes both close-hauled and gulfwind perfectly.

The cabin has enough space for five people to sleep comfortably. The galley has a two-burner gas stove. All passengers can sit freely at the hanging table. There is a tank with drinking water(100 l) and 200 l of water in plastic bottles under the cover. It is dangerous to drink water from the Don. I use four of the eight buoyancy blocks as lockers. The cockpit is self-draining; its aft part is fenced off for storing a gas cylinder and a fuel tank.

In 2006, the stationary engine was removed, and on the starboard side of the transom I attached a cross member, on which I place a Mercury outboard motor (4 hp, four-stroke, with a long “leg” and a generator). Another thing: I couldn’t be happier with the engine. Starts up fine any time. An hour of operation consumes a little more than 1 liter of gasoline. No noise, no burning! Last year the engine worked for 30 hours, this year – already 70 hours. Not a single failure!

I start navigation at the end of April and finish at the end of October–beginning of November. I spend almost five months on a yacht. The parking lot next to the house is a 10-minute walk, so I often even sleep outside. The engine recharges the battery, the radio is constantly on, and the TV is on periodically. I like to constantly change my parking spot. And I walk upstream of the Don to Konstantinovsk and even to the Vedernikov farm, where there is silence and beauty.

Thanks to the yacht, I relax on my own and occasionally with family and friends. Looking at factory-made boats, I sometimes feel envy. However, my yacht is very good for our rivers: I can approach the shore and get out without getting my feet wet, but a keel yacht cannot allow this. I don't participate in competitions. I know that I won’t win a single prize. But in Rostov-on-Don, no one relaxes on the water more than me, so the mood is always good.

I am grateful to the employees of my favorite magazine for enticing me many years ago with materials about building ships, traveling along rivers and seas. They gave birth to dreams that turned into reality and provided me with a wonderful old age, which I don’t notice while sailing.

P.S. I forgot to say that on a small ship it is not necessary to build a cabin using old methods, since beams only spoil the appearance and contribute to getting bumps on the head. Now you can ensure the strength of the roof in other ways. On the bow I equipped a platform and a ladder for going ashore, and there are two bow anchors on it, which extend from the cockpit.

Homemade yachts are a rather labor-intensive process that will require a lot of effort, time and material costs. Some yacht construction processes cannot be completed without the help of a specialist. Expert knowledge will help prevent mistakes when building a yacht. Before starting construction, it is necessary to accurately determine appearance yachts and its main functions and purpose.

Any yacht construction begins with the manufacture of the hull. The body is mainly made of wood. Wood is much simpler and easier to work with. Today, there are many different materials that will help protect the hull of a yacht from exposure to water. Initially, you need to accurately calculate the cost of the hull and sails.

If mistakes are made at this stage, further operation of the yacht will be impossible. To avoid mistakes, you can visit specialized stores and consult with specialists. When the yacht hull is built, you can turn to professional shipbuilders for help. They will help you correctly draw up the design and drawings of the yacht, and you will already implement it into reality. The equipment on the yacht also plays an important role. Things must be installed on the yacht only after it has been launched.

DIY sailing yacht

Today, anyone can build a sailing yacht on their own. Construction sailing yacht requires sober and cold calculation, which will allow you to correctly calculate all the necessary parameters. When building a sailing yacht, experts do not recommend using wooden planking. IN in this case the best option The use of diagonal cladding is considered. This method allows the use of transverse templates. Building a sailing yacht from a fiberglass hull requires strict adherence to all rules and requirements, as well as special equipment.

The construction of a reinforced cement sailing yacht requires strict adherence to the hull casting rules. This building is reminiscent of concrete work during the construction of above-ground structures. Building a sailing yacht requires certain professional knowledge. Defects or errors that may occur during operation are not immediately noticeable. Defects can only be seen when the yacht is used on the water. In the future, the construction of a yacht using aromatic cement may incur material costs. Also, reinforced cement has a lot of weight, which is a very big disadvantage. In practice, it is very clear that the ideal weight ratio starts with 12-14 meter hulls. Many shipbuilders and yachtsmen, despite all the shortcomings, consider this material to be of high quality and durable. Do not forget that in addition to the housing, there are also costs for various equipment and tools.

Before you start building a sailing yacht, you need to listen to the recommendations of experts. They believe that the most constructive material for building a hull is a metal alloy or wood. Reinforced cement and fiberglass are mainly suitable for the construction of large yachts. For medium-sized yachts, wood is a promising option. As a rule, metal is used with a high level of strength.

A sailing yacht made of wood has a long service life. The wood has the correct proportion of length and weight. To build a sailing yacht, non-swelling plywood and veneers are used, which are made from fir, oak or mahogany. Wood is also used for multi-layer exterior cladding. Fastening of wooden frame structures is carried out using phenol-formaldehyde resin, which is combined with a tie on bolts, screws and screws. Professional boatbuilders believe that wood is an acceptable material for building a sailing yacht with your own hands.

How to build a yacht with your own hands

As a rule, building a yacht with your own hands begins with drawings. it is better to take from ready-made and developed projects, since they have the correct necessary parameters. The drawings must be consistent with the purpose of the yacht and the materials chosen. Before starting construction, it is also necessary to determine for what purposes it will be intended.

Clear indications of the rules and requirements for the yacht will help you correctly decide on the project. Building a yacht with your own hands requires certain knowledge and skills. To build a yacht yourself, you need to correctly lay out the drawing and make the necessary templates and patterns. This procedure requires professional knowledge and experience. Any mistakes that may be made at this stage will affect the finished yacht. As a result, such defects will be very difficult to eliminate. To prevent mistakes from being made, finished projects provide special equipment. The kit also contains the necessary materials and instructions that indicate the sequence of work step by step. This method will allow you to build a yacht with your own hands in the shortest possible time.

After purchasing such a kit, the construction of the yacht is carried out in several steps. First you need to carefully study the plans, drawings and instructions. It often happens that several construction options are considered in a project. After this stage, you can begin assembling various equipment (frames, keels, stringers). Next you need to prepare the casing. The body is assembled on a slipway and covered with cladding materials. The covering is applied in several layers. After the hull is ready, installation work is carried out on the yacht and the necessary equipment is installed. It is best to build a yacht near bodies of water. After construction is completed, the yacht must be checked on the water for defects and deficiencies.

DIY yacht made of plywood

A DIY plywood yacht will allow you to go for a walk on a pond at any convenient time. In order to build a yacht from plywood, the following tools are needed: nails, a hacksaw, a hammer, a screwdriver, an electric drill, a drill. To build a yacht you need seven sheets of plywood. The thickness of the plywood should not be more than 6 millimeters. Experts recommend taking plywood measuring 1.22x2.44 mm. Additional sheets are also needed, about 10 millimeters thick and identical in size.

The main task when building a yacht is the correct choice of plywood. Plywood can be made from various types of wood, but one of the most acceptable options is to use poplar plywood, 7-10 millimeters thick. This indicator does not affect the weight of plywood.

If the plywood is made of birch, then the thickness should be up to 5 millimeters. When building a yacht, it is imperative to take into account the level of water resistance. Plywood contains several layers of wood (2-3). It is for this reason that it provides a high level of strength for the future yacht.

If large plywood sheets are used in the construction of a yacht, the level of labor intensity of the process is reduced. A groove is made on the stringer or scup in the form of combined sheets of plywood. This work process does not require careful adjustment of the edges of the belts. Plywood sheathing involves transverse patterns that serve to outline the body. This construction process involves the use of frames that are located in the structure. This option does not require independent preparation of patterns.

Frames for yacht construction are made in a simple form. For their manufacture, futoxes (a straight part) are used. When building a yacht yourself, it is imperative to pay careful attention to the manufacture of the hull. The assembly of the body is carried out on a workbench and ends on an earthen surface. The keel is placed on the workbench, after which it must be connected to the frames and stems. The connection is made using bolts, screws and nails.

After completing this work process, it is necessary to check whether there are any defects in the form of distortion. Porous paper or thin cloth impregnated with resin is inserted into each connection. If the body is connected with nails, then you definitely need to pay attention to their length. In order for the nails to be driven in easily, holes must be drilled in advance. The hole should be 1 millimeter less than the thickness of the nail. Boards for the side are placed on both sides of the frame, and the ends are tied with twine to the stem.

Next, boards are bent around the frames, tied and brought to the transom. Unnecessary ends can be cut off. The yacht must also have a mast, which can be made of pine. Before starting to build a yacht, the plywood must be moistened so that it does not crack in the future. You can also steam plywood.

DIY motor yacht

A motor yacht has many different advantages and benefits. One of the most important advantages is ease of management. The speed of the yacht will depend on the power of the motor.

Before building a motor yacht, it is necessary to determine its purpose. The hull of a motor yacht is constructed from transverse and longitudinal sections. On motor yachts the engine must be located in the stern. This arrangement of the engine allows for the correct landing of the vessel.

Any structural material can be used for the hull of a motor yacht. The choice of material depends on the project drawings, its features and limitations. Do not forget that it is impossible to choose the ideal material for the construction of a motor yacht. Each material has its own disadvantages and advantages.

Fiberglass is one of the most common materials used to build a motor yacht. If you correctly follow the technology of the construction process, the yacht will have a high level of strength and long term operation. , as a rule, contain only small parts of the device. But today there are projects that include a developed interior and design, as well as all the necessary tools for the body. If the construction of a motor yacht is carried out using professional blanks, then the process will not take much time. When purchasing fiberglass yourself, there is a risk of purchasing low-quality material. When purchasing a material, you must carefully study its properties and qualities. These qualities are very important, since the design of the finished yacht depends on them.

The fiberglass housing must be built indoors, which will protect it from the effects of negative factors and weather conditions. Before applying a new layer, it is important to take into account the polymerization of the old layer. If this aspect is not taken into account, then as a result the case may be covered with a greasy film, which can easily get dust. When working with fiberglass, it is necessary to observe safety measures, since this material is very harmful to health.

Fiberglass can be used for various structures, both heavy and light. Strengthening the strength level of fiberglass is achieved through Kevlar and carbon fiber. If the composite structure is strengthened, the weight of the yacht can be reduced. Choosing the right yacht hull is the main goal when building a motor yacht with your own hands. Independently building a motor yacht is a complex process that requires certain knowledge and skills.

The motor yacht will become ideal option boats for trips on water bodies. No professional knowledge is required to operate such a yacht. The control is automatic and allows you to fully enjoy unforgettable walks. Also, such yachts reduce the risk of problems with the control of the yacht helmsman or due to negative weather conditions.