Starocherkasskaya village. About the village. Festival "There is no freer Don Quiet"

The village of Starocherkasskaya is located approximately 15 km from Rostov-on-Don, on the banks of the Don.
1. You can get there by taking a minibus that runs from the Nakhichevan market. It takes almost an hour to travel, because the minibus stops at the suburb of Rostov - Aksai.
You can also travel by train excursion group, by boat from the central embankment of Rostov. But it will cost much more.

Starocherkasskaya (Starocherkassk, until 1805 - Cherkassk), a village in the Aksai region Rostov region.
Known as the capital of the Don Cossacks. In the center of the village is the Starocherkassk Museum-Reserve.
Currently the village has been converted into tourist place, which is a must-visit for anyone who comes to Rostov and who is interested in the history of these places.

Interesting information from Wikimapia:
“The first written mentions found about the “Cherkassy town” on the Don date back to 1593. At the same time, according to V.N. Tatishchev in his “Russian History from the Most Ancient Times” and N.A. Markevich in the “History of Little Russia”, the village was founded - under the name "city of Cherkassy" - by the Cherkasy people under Tsar Ivan the Terrible, during an expedition led by the Cherkasy headman, Prince M.A. Vishnevetsky, to help Astrakhan besieged by the Turks in 1569.
From 1644 to 1805 Cherkassk was the capital of the Don Cossacks.
Here the wooden Ascension Cathedral is being built and Military Circles gather on the Maidan.
Cherkassk is the birthplace of General Matvey Platov and many other Don heroes. It was in Cherkassk in 1667 that the uprising of Stepan Razin, a Cossack from the village of Zimoveyskaya, began, and in 1708, the leader of another uprising, Kondraty Bulavin, was killed in his kuren."

2. If possible, everything in the village has been preserved as it looked in the 19th century. There are old Cossack houses preserved here, the only ones of their kind.

3. On the territory of the historical and cultural reserve there are such sculptures of Cossacks from different eras.

4. Due to some misunderstanding, the main street of the village still bears the name Sovetskaya.
After all, it had some other name before 1917?
On the right you see the territory of the Starocherkassk Efremovsky Holy Don Monastery. The monastery was founded in 1836

5. Part of the monastery territory is occupied by a museum complex.

7. A shop for tourists, where you can see many old Cossack household items and souvenirs.

8. You are allowed to take pictures and touch here, even if you don’t buy anything.

9. Interesting pre-revolutionary map of the Don Army Region. In the north-west it covers part of the territory of present-day Ukraine and borders on the Kharkov province.

10. Overlay of the map of the Don wax region, abolished by the Bolsheviks, on modern administrative boundaries. You can see how it is capturing part of Ukraine. Even the current Donetsk (Yuzovka) is part of it. Also a significant part of the current Volgograd region was part of it.
The administrative center was not Rostov, as the most Big City in the region, and Novocherkassk.

13. On the territory of the Ataman Compound museum. This is the estate of the Efremov atamans ( architectural monuments XVIII-XIX centuries).

15. Temple of the Don Icon of the Mother of God. 1761

16. Once upon a time Cherkassk was on an island and was prepared for all-round defense. It was surrounded by a moat with water, and from the south it was washed by the Don River.
After all, the Turks and the Caucasus were in the neighborhood for centuries.

17. Short story of this Cossack settlement is depicted on these three shields.

20. Former Ataman Palace.
"The Ataman Palace, built on the model of the capital's aristocratic houses. In its final form, the palace has 21 rooms"

21. The style is quite reminiscent of temples on the territory of present-day Ukraine (Little Russia). And they bear little resemblance to the churches of central, and even more so northern, Rus'.

24. In a part of the monastery closed to outsiders. They let me in here to take a couple of pictures.

25. Along Sovetskaya Street we are approaching the main church of the village.

26. At the beginning of April, spring was in full swing here, which made me extraordinarily happy, having arrived from St. Petersburg.

27. Military (Resurrection) Cathedral.
Year of construction 1706 - 1719. This is the main local architectural landmark. Until 1805, the Resurrection Cathedral was the main temple of the Don Army. They write that this is generally the first stone temple on the Don.
Fun fact: Wikipedia lists the architectural style this cathedral as - "Ukrainian baroque".
It is absolutely certain that some kind of invisible connection with everything Little Russian is present here. Historical sources indicate that in 1569 the local population was replenished by Cossack Cossacks, who moved from the Dnieper to the Don.

The temple is really very similar to those that I met somewhere in the Chernigov region.

28. And its bell tower. It’s simply amazing how all this was preserved in the 20th century, especially considering the fact that the bulk of the Don Cossacks desperately resisted the advent of Soviet power.

29. Modern monument to Ataman Platov.

30. Antiques.

31. On the floor of the cathedral there is a tablet like this, which has been preserved since the 19th century.

32. View of the cathedral from the side of the road that leads to the bank of the Don, which is literally 500 meters from it.

33. Quiet Don near the village of Starocherkasskaya. Wide and beautiful.
Looking at these beauties one feels something poetic.

“In the spring, the Don floods regularly flooded the city. It was because of the constant floods and fires that Ataman M.I. Platov decided in 1804 to found a new capital of the Don Army Region, and in 1805 it was moved to Novocherkassk. After why Cherkassk began to be called Starocherkassk, and to end of the 19th century century lost the status of a city."

34. There is a ferry on this side.

35. View of the village of Starocherkasskaya from the Don River.

36. Monument "Stone of Cossack Glory" on the banks of the Don near the ferry. Installed in 2010.
“It is a huge granite block, where the coat of arms of the Don Cossacks and a memorial plaque are installed to all the Cossacks - the founders of the village, who bravely fought in battles with the Turks and Tatars, defending their Fatherland.”

38. Another temple in Starocherkasskaya, although inactive, is the Church of Peter and Paul.

39. How strongly all this resembles the architecture of Little Russia! It was as if I had visited my native land.

40. The house in which, according to legend, the leader of the peasant war of 1707 - 1709, Kondraty Bulavin, lived and died.

41. Private houses in the village. In addition to the museum and the monastery, people still live here.

43. A characteristic detail is that the first floor is made of stone, due to possible floods on the river.

44. Stop of the Bolshoi Log train on the main route Rostov - Voronezh. We crossed this place by minibus over the bridge, but I got out to take a photo and maybe wait for the train.

45. It was not possible to return to Rostov by train then. They don't run that often, so I had to walk some distance and then catch a minibus.

What is Don famous for? The region of Donskoy is famous for its poetic legends, songs, brightness and originality of traditions and rituals carried through centuries. This is a land of strong, proud and at the same time very kind and open people who work from dawn to dusk, wanting to make their native land even more beautiful.

There are many in the Rostov region historical monuments And cultural centers. They are landmarks of our region. One of them is the village of Starocherkasskaya, former city Cherkassk, the capital of the Don Cossacks. It is difficult to find such a protected corner on the Don, where you can breathe antiquity, where everything so vividly resembles the historical past. Old city attracted travelers precisely with this aroma of antiquity, crooked streets and alleys, and Cossack kurens.

June 8, 1820 The village was visited by A.S. Pushkin and General N.N. Raevsky, who wrote in a letter to his daughter: “This demoted city is flooded with water even more than usual. There are 700 houses left in it, including several old names of officials. In a word, Old Cherkassk will remain forever a monument: both for Russian and foreign travelers.”

As the capital of the region of the Don army, the “old city” ceased to exist on May 9, 1806. On this day, Ataman M.I. Platov, during the spring flood, moved the military office to New Cherkassk, which was built on a bare Aksai hill. This decision was made due to a number of circumstances.

By the beginning of the 19th century, when Russia strengthened its position on the shores of the Azov and Black Sea regions, Cherkassk lost its former military-strategic importance. Because every year the city was subjected to a devastating flood, which for several months turned it into a floating village, called by foreign travelers the “Venice of the Don”. In 1801 Italian engineer Antonio Ludwig de Romano developed a project to protect the city from floods, but it was not accepted because it required high costs: the city had to be rebuilt on an artificially constructed embankment.

The Russian government has long wanted to abolish Cossack self-government. And using the pretext of moving the capital to another place, they hoped to carry out their plan. After all, Cherkassk was a hotbed of anti-feudal movements for 17-18 centuries. All this together decided the fate of Cherkassk.

Since 1970, the capital Starocherkasskaya has been turned into a historical and architectural museum-reserve. The village came to life. Churches and buildings have been restored. IN summer time a huge number of tourists visit the village.

The emergence of Cherkassk dates back to the end of the 16th century. The first mention of the city is found in the chronicles of the reign of Ivan the Terrible: “The Cherkassy people came from across the Dnieper to the Don with Prince Vishnevetsky and, having settled there, built the city of Cherkasy.” Gradually, the population of the Don was continuously replenished by refugees from Ukraine and Great Russian peasants. This explains the unbreakable alliance of the Don Cossacks and Ukraine with the Cossacks.

The island chosen for the settlement, protected on all sides by water, was a reliable refuge for the Cossacks. At the very beginning, the city consisted of narrow streets and crowded kurens and dugouts. The only decoration was the chapel and the tower - the tower, on which the Cossacks carried out guard duty.

Fires often occurred in the wooden city, but it was rebuilt again.

The Turks carried out frequent raids and destroyed everything to the ground. In 1643 They ravaged the towns of Manych and Cherkassy, ​​and burned the town on Monastyrsky Yar. Later, the Turks, Tatars, and Nagais unsuccessfully tried to take possession of the city.

Sources from the 18th century say that the city of “Cherkasy is fairly built and fortified in the ancient way, with peals and towers.” The fortress is located on an island formed by the Don, the Tankinsky Erik and the Channel, separating it from the steppe plain. On the rampart there were walls with a double row of oak polygardens filled with earth inside. The fortress was complemented by wooden towers and a ditch filled with water.

Inside the city is a fortress, divided into: Cherkasskaya, Pribylyanskaya, Durnovskaya, etc. The names of the villages come from the kurens or villages from which the Cossack army was formed. A. Rigelman drew up a plan where, in addition to the walls, Cherkassk was additionally fortified on the outside with one large one - the Danilovsky raskat and ten smaller ones.

The Cherkassy fortress in the 17-18 centuries was a formidable structure, indicating that the Cossacks had firmly settled in this place and were not going to leave it.

The fortifications and ramparts have now disappeared, and in their places are memorial obelisks with cast iron cannons. On our way to the village we will meet the first Ivanovo peal.

Guests' attention will certainly be attracted by the fences and wooden smoking areas, which have preserved their ancient layout to this day. Carved platbands, corner pilasters and shutters, highlighted with white paint, give them a picturesque and elegant look.

Kureni appeared on the Don in the second half of the 17th century, when the life of the Cossacks became more sedentary. Previously, they lived in hastily made dugouts, which they left and left in case of danger. In the life of a Cossack, peace was temporary; anxiety was the Cossack’s companion. “Having maintained long-term peace, we remain barefoot and hungry,” they wrote to the king, but nevertheless, the comfortable dwellings were appreciated. The kurens were built on high stilts, which protected the living rooms from flooding. The rooms were accessed by stairs to a “galdarea”, which was the name given to a balcony closed on all sides. The lower floor (omshanik) was used as utility rooms for storing various household equipment. De Romano wrote: “All wooden houses, without exception, have a gallery along the facade and on one side: people sleep on them in the summer. These external galleries are ready-made bonfires during fires: the streets are so narrow that you can shake hands from opposite galleries.” Therefore, fires burned the city to the ground. The kurens that have survived to this day date back to the second half of the 19th century. They were richly decorated with wide, openwork carvings.

A wide, openwork carved board, which was nailed to the eaves above the overhang of the hipped roof, gives special expressiveness to the façade of the smoking area.

The dwellings of the Cossacks went through a long path of development - from huts to a multi-room house, which was divided into an entrance hall and an upper room, to which were adjacent a canopy, a closet and a “galdarey”.

Kureni are still found in Starocherkassk; they form the architectural background of the city. True, already rickety, many have lost their carved decoration, but nevertheless they carry the memory of the past.

Perhaps that is why in Starocherkassk the tradition of holding folklore festivals, which take place in the summer, every third Sunday of the month, has been preserved.

It has become a good tradition in our family to visit the village of Starocherkasskaya once a year during such celebrations. The most vivid and memorable trip was on August 20, 2005, when I visited the 355th anniversary of the village.

A celebration was held on the banks of the Don, at the pier. There were about 20 thousand invited guests alone. Folklore ensembles from different republics, cities, villages and farmsteads, from Kuban, Zaporozhye, Orenburg, etc. came here. They came from different places Rostov region craftsmen to show what was created by their hands. There are wood carvings, beadwork, jewelry, wicker furniture, icons, paintings, bas-reliefs and figurines. And when you look at them, you involuntarily feel a sense of pride for your fellow countrymen, that in such difficult times they create real masterpieces. It is impossible to pass by without buying something. I also bought several souvenirs as souvenirs.

The concert program began at 10 a.m. and lasted until midnight. Amateur artists showed scenes from the life and everyday life of the Cossacks: seeing off a soldier to service, a wedding, etc. The folk ensembles “Ivan Kupala” and “Russian Song” came to congratulate the Starocherkassians. Nadezhda Babkina's performance caused a storm of applause. The deputy ataman of the Don army presented the artist with the icon “Mother of God” as a gift.

The Cossacks gave rides to those who wished. Colorful colors soared into the sky kites and balls. I witnessed a huge balloon being launched.

The holiday ended with fireworks.

Of course, I also visited the Military Resurrection Cathedral. I was greatly impressed by the decoration of the cathedral: especially the graceful baroque five-tiered iconostasis, where ancient icons are entwined with beautiful carvings in the form of grapevines and grapes, covered with gilding. It seems like precious lace against the clean background of whitewashed walls. The choirs depict 35 fragments from the Old and New Testaments, and under each picture there is an explanatory caption, as in the composition of the expulsion of Adam and Eve from paradise:

“And startled by God’s menacing voice,

And, having gone into hiding, I realized my sin.”

The cathedral still amazes with its grandeur and beauty. While at such monuments, poets compose poems:

Like a song the temple flows high,

He rushes upward, solemn and slender,

The stone is inspired by the singing power -

Built for God or not for God,

But he was raised by man,

And there is no hypocritical humility in him,

An unknown architect, daring and bold,

He himself became a creator and gave wings to stones

And he imprinted his pride on them.

And you're standing on a stone threshold,

And your soul is proud of people -

Gods come and gods go

But man is immortal forever.

Upon entering the cathedral, I was struck by a landmark: the shackles of Stepan Razin, in which he was supposedly shackled in the ancient wooden cathedral before being sent to Moscow. Later, these shackles and chains were displayed as a warning to the rebellious and free Cossacks. Not far from the chains, a slab is walled up in the wall, behind which is the ashes of the military chieftain Kornil Yakovlev. Next to the cathedral there is a two-tier bell tower, built in 1725 - 1730. This is the only tented bell tower of the 18th century in the south of Russia (its height is 45.8 m). From the top platform of the bell tower it opens wonderful view to the village, to the Don River.

On the cathedral site - the Maidan - Azov cannons, the fortress gates, the yoke and the arrow of trade scales are displayed - symbols of the conquest of Azov and the Cossacks' mastery of trade routes and the mouth of the Don. Here, in Cherkassk, on August 31, 1696, for the first time in the history of Russia, fireworks were produced in honor of the victory of Russian weapons near Azov. Yes, cowards were not tolerated on the Don! Bravery was recognized as the highest virtue. Cossack proverbs and sayings speak about this as follows: “A Cossack would rather die than die.” native land will do”, “Cossack courage will destroy any fortress”, “And there is only one warrior in the field, if he is cut like a Cossack”, “It is better to lay down your head, but not to lose Cossack honor.” Here, in 1670, Stepan Razin called on the naked people to march on Moscow. On the Maidan, on the military circle, on May 9, 1708, military ataman Kondraty Bulavin was elected and after a while, right there on the square, he was executed.

A landmark of Starocherkassk is the architectural complex of the 18th – 19th centuries, the courtyard of the military chieftains of the Efremovs, which was surrounded by a stone wall. The first building was a palace; a house church was erected opposite. After restoration, one of the exhibitions of the Starocherkassk Historical and Architectural Museum-Reserve was placed there. Then a two-story stone building was built, where the Monastery Hotel now exists. In Starocherkassk there is active monastery, on the territory of which the exhibition “Old City of Cherkassk 16th – 20th centuries” is located, telling about the history of the Don Cossacks and its capital - Cherkassk. You can enter the territory of the monastery through the holy gates, which are unique in their architecture.

I walked around all the buildings of the museum-reserve. I saw a lot of interesting things: military regalia, weapons, clothes of the Nekrasov Cossacks, fishing gear. The museum preserves items that were part of the decoration of the house of a wealthy Cossack and the ancient Cossack kitchen.

The shopping area is decorated with decorative signs.

Talking about Cherkassy antiquity, I would like to remember that Cherkassk is the birthplace of many military leaders of the Don who took an active part in the wars of Russia: Krasnoshchekov I.M., Frolov V.F., Denisov A. and M.I. Platov.

Atamans for the battle for freedom

Raised the Don Cossacks

And the earth groaned under my hoof,

The steppe shook from the trampling.

Cossacks, irrepressibly rebellious,

They fought bravely for freedom and honor.

An ancient cemetery has been preserved around the Church of the Transfiguration. Some atamans of the 17th - 19th centuries are buried there: ataman Danila Efremov, ataman Orlov (participant in the assault on Izmail), ataman I.M. Krasnoshchekov (participant in the war with the Swedes). Many generals and officers - participants are buried here Patriotic War 1812. They promised to create a memorial complex for the glory of Russian weapons at this cemetery.

My roots are on the Don,

Holy land of my ancestors.

They defended with their lives

From enemies, my native land.

Without history there is no future. One of the philosophers wrote: “Hoary antiquity, under all circumstances, will remain an extremely interesting era for future generations, for it is the basis of later progress.” The village of Starocherkasskaya and its surroundings are replete with monuments and memorable places. There is no other place in the south of Russia where monuments created by the skillful hands of many generations would be provided in such quantity.

Leaving the village of Starocherkasskaya, we will admire the beauty of the surrounding landscape for a long time, the beacons of its churches against the backdrop of the flat steppe landscape. And we feel pride in the Don Cossacks who lived many years ago and gratitude to those who preserved all the monuments for us, the younger generation.

I am a Cossack. I bequeath to my sons

Protect and love our Don region.

If you have to fight with enemies,

Conclusion

Without knowing the past of your homeland, you can neither understand nor appreciate our present day, nor imagine the future.

The Cossacks treated nature with care like sons native land, calling the steppe “Mother” and the Don “Father”, they preserved folk traditions. They understood that this was their life, the future of their children and grandchildren.

Caring for the history of our region and its traditions is the sacred duty of each of us. And sing about our land, as our grandfathers and fathers did:

“The native land is like a mother’s caress, like her tender call over the cradle, the magical sound of familiar words trembles in the heart with warmth and joy: I love you, dear land And the sedge of your quiet waters, and the silver of sandy spits, the cry of a lapwing in a green bush, the song of round dances at dawn and on holiday the noise of the village Maidan, and the dear old Don - I wouldn’t trade it for anything.”

The village of Starocherkasskaya is located in the Rostov region, on the right bank of the Don River, 30 km east of the city of Rostov-on-Don. The village of Starocherkasskaya delights its guests with folklore festivals, which are attended by ensembles from all over Russia; the festivals “Volnaya Stanitsa” and “Salute to Russia”, the Festival of Ukha, as well as a festival of Cossack culture dedicated to the celebration of the Don Icon of the Mother of God are held here.

Festive events include theatrical performances and master classes, fairs and tastings of Cossack dishes, mass reenactments of Cossack battles and fireworks.

The region is famous for its original culture and the color of the Don landscapes. The ataman of the Don Cossacks, Kondraty Bulavin, lived here and an associate of Alexander Suvorov, a participant in all wars, was born Russia XVIII- beginning of the 19th century, General Matvey Platov. At different times, Tsars Peter I and Alexander I, artists Vasily Surikov and Ivan Krylov, poet Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin and writer Mikhail Sholokhov visited here.

From 1644 to 1805, the village of Starocherkasskaya was the capital of the Don Cossacks.

How to get to Starocherkassk

• To get to the village, you need to get to the city of Aksay, located 16 km from Rostov-on-Don. From Aksay to Starocherkassk go by regular bus or minibus
• By car, also get to Aksay, and then follow in the direction of Novocherkassk, and in the Bolshoi Log area turn to the village.
• By boat from river station In Rostov. However, it should be noted that there is no regular traffic to the village.

Name

According to the Soviet historian Boris Lunin, the name of the city is associated with the residence of Cossack Cossacks, immigrants from the Dnieper region, since the Tatars called the Cossacks Cherkassy.

From the history

The first mentions of Cherkassk appeared in historical essays in 1593, although some scientists believe that the city was founded by Zaporozhye Cossacks even earlier - in 1570. The village became famous for the fact that it was from these places and the Monastic town, located 7 km down the Don, that the Cossacks’ campaign against the Turkish fortress began Azov. Its capture and retention from 1637 to 1641 was called the “Azov Seat.”

After the Cossacks left the Azov fortress, the Turks took revenge on them by destroying Cherkassk and the Monastic Town. Despite this, in 1644 the city was restored and became the capital of the Don Army.

Stepan Razin was born in Cherkassk and in 1667 it was here that the Don Cossacks rebelled and the uprising began. Emelyan Pugachev visited the village more than once.

In 1805, Ataman Matvey Ivanovich Platov, despite the objections of many Cossacks, founded Novocherkassk - new capital Don Cossacks, and Cherkassk was renamed Starocherkassk. The reason for moving the capital of the Don Cossacks was explained by frequent floods in the spring and fires during the rest of the year.

Sights of the village of Starocherkasskaya

One of the main attractions of the village is the Starocherkassk Historical and Architectural Museum-Reserve, formed in 1970 on the initiative of the writer Mikhail Sholokhov.

The museum-reserve occupies an area of ​​180 hectares, on which there are more than 100 monuments of civil and religious architecture of the central part of the village, as well as several historical territories in its surroundings. Among the most famous historical and architectural monuments:

• The architectural complex “Ataman Compound”, which includes buildings of the mid-18th century - the Ataman Palace of Danila Efremov and the Don House Church, located opposite the palace, as well as utility buildings and the Efremov family cemetery
• The Military Resurrection Cathedral was erected in 1650 on one of the most elevated places on the island. Initially, it was a wooden temple, next to which there was a wide square - the Maidan, where Military Circles gathered to solve important problems. The wooden temple burned several times and after one of the devastating fires the cathedral was rebuilt in stone. Work was carried out from 1706 to 1719. A bell tower 45 meters high was built next to the nine-domed temple. Until 1805 it was main cathedral total Donskoy troops
• House of Kondraty Bulavin - military ataman of the Don Cossacks
• Since the beginning of the 17th century, the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord was located in the Ratny tract, in the city cemetery. In this church they served a memorial service for the dead and those killed in the war; from here, when going to a foreign land, they took a handful of Don soil with them. In 1740, the Ratnaya Church was rebuilt in stone
• The stone church of the apostles Peter and Paul was built on retail space in 1749-1751
• The Zhuchenkov House, which is a striking example of Cossack residential architecture XVIII century
• The monument “Stone of Cossack Glory” was opened at the crossing of the Don River in honor of the 440th anniversary of the Cossack village in 2010.

In addition to monuments and festivals, the village of Starocherkasskaya is famous for one of best places in Russia to play professional golf. A large resort and sports complex Don was built here Golf Resort, which boasts a magnificent 18-hole golf course. For beginning players, including children, there is an opportunity to learn the secrets of this sport. Stanitsa Starocherkasskaya - great option for a trip out of town or for those who have already seen everything