Chukotka Autonomous Okrug: on the other side of the Gulf of Anadyr. Chukotka. Travel to the Cape of All Winds Outdoor recreation in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

Posted Sun, 09/11/2014 - 08:51 by Cap

walrus rookery in Chukotka

TOURISM IN CHUKOKA
There are places in the world that seem specially created to test a person’s “strength.” Chukotka is one of them. A land of permafrost, winds and blizzards, cutting two oceans like a rocky wedge, Chukotka reveals its unique beauty only to those who are boldly ready to meet difficulties. The extreme climate has shaped a very special life philosophy of indigenous peoples, whose way of life was initially subordinated to a higher goal - survival.
That is why in Chukotka it has always been considered very important to cultivate fortitude and strength of body, physical endurance and dexterity. And today the development of sports in the district plays a significant role. Moreover, both Olympic and national sports are popular. Dog and reindeer sled races and kayak competitions are an exciting and colorful spectacle that many come from afar to admire. However, many bright impressions and unique sensations await the brave traveler in Chukotka.
This ancient land seems to breathe eternity itself. The entire appearance of Chukotka is permeated with clarity, directness and nakedness. And in the third millennium, here you can see the same landscape that once appeared to the eyes of Russian pioneers: convincingly simple outlines of coasts and mountains, like straight valleys carved with a chisel, scattered lakes and clear rivers flowing into icy seas.
The hospitality of the original owners of this land - the Chukchi, Eskimos, Evens, Chuvans, their dances and songs, their original art, carefully preserved for centuries ... Chukotka - will not leave the tourist indifferent. amazing land, which managed to maintain life and the ability to flourish in harsh polar conditions. During the short northern summer, in permafrost conditions, a miracle occurs here every year - a real riot of nature's revival, captivating people with its unique beauty. The hubbub of bird markets, the piercing blue of estuaries merging with the sky, the bright colors of the tundra, reminiscent of a colorful carpet...
However, snow-shrouded Chukotka is no less attractive for tourists who are ready to test their courage and perseverance. After all, the white silence seems monotonous only at first glance - life among the snow does not stop for a minute! Do you know how warm it is even in the most severe cold in a yaranga? Have you ever ridden a dog or reindeer sled? Can you imagine how they hunt a walrus and how delicious smelt caught by yourself is? If you want to take a break from civilization in the pristine world of nature, if you are attracted by the unknown and attracted by a thirst for adventure, then a trip to Chukotka will be a real pleasure for you!

(Chukotka), an archaeological complex consisting of two rows of huge bones of bowhead whales dug into the ground.
The complex was opened in 1976 by a group of researchers from the Institute of Ethnography of the USSR Academy of Sciences under the leadership of M. A. Chlenov.
Considered one of the wonders of Russia!

However, until recently no one knew anything about her. There is a unique archaeological complex northeast of Providence Bay, in the Bering Strait, on Yttygran Island. According to scientists, Whale Alley is considered a miracle not only from a scientific but also from an archaeological point of view.

The bay, on the shore of which the monument is located, is surrounded from the northeast and southwest by steep rocky outcrops, but between them the hills decrease somewhat and form a relatively gentle slope covered with various tundra vegetation. Against this green background, groups of whale jaw pillars that seem bright white from a distance stand out clearly, and when approaching the shore above the grassy edge of the beach, the bizarre outlines of whale skulls, embedded in the pebbles with a narrow bow, become visible.

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SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND PHOTO:
Team Nomads
http://www.chukotka.org
http://www.visitchukotka.com
http://www.chukotken.ru/
S. Bolashenko. Narrow gauge railways of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug (June 23, 2007).
Golubchikov Yu.N. Geography of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug. — Moscow: IPC “Design. Information. Cartography", 2003. - 320 p. — ISBN 5-287-00080-4.
Belikovich A.V., Galanin A.V. Chukotka: natural and economic essay. - Moscow: Art-Liteks, 1995. - P. 98-99.
Committee on Sports and Tourism of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug
In Chukotka in 2010, an increase in the number of tourists was recorded // Portal of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug
http://www.photosight.ru/
photo authors: A. Kutsky, V. Silantyev, S. Shulga, S. Anisimov,
Tourism in Chukotka is no longer a myth, but a reality // ratanews.ru
Chukotka Autonomous Okrug - article from the Great Soviet Encyclopedia
Official website of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug
Legislation of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug
S. A. Arutyunov, I. I. Krupnik, M. A. Chlenov. "Whale Alley". Antiquities of the islands of the Senyavin Strait. 1982.
Leontiev V.V., Novikova K.A. Toponymic dictionary of the north-east of the USSR. - Magadan: Magadan Book Publishing House, 1989, p. 161.
A. A. Korobkov. Red Book of Russia (1981).

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The extreme northeast of Russia is the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug with administrative center in Anadyr. The most remote territory from central Russia. Further, through the Bering Strait it is Alaska - America.

The only possible way to get to Chukotka is by plane. The existing sea communication during the summer navigation season is used only for the delivery of goods. There is no passenger service due to the long length of sea routes. In principle, there are no railway or road connections with the “mainland”.

The distance from Moscow to Anadyr is approximately 6400 km. The flight takes place in an arc above the Arctic Circle. If you fly during the day, then from the window you can see the tundra stretching for many kilometers along the entire road.

Currently, only one airline operates regular flights from Moscow to Chukotka - Transaero. You can get from Khabarovsk to Anadyr by planes of the Vladivostok Air company. All. There is no more message!

Despite the significant cost of tickets (20 thousand rubles), all planes are almost 100% loaded.

It should be noted that even by plane it is not always possible to get to Anadyr. Due to unstable weather prone to rain, snow and strong winds, flights may be delayed or completely cancelled. During certain periods in spring and autumn, planes do not fly at all.

The entire territory of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is a border zone with appropriate entry rules. Border guards meet those arriving already on the plane. If you do not have local registration, you must have a reason to enter. For example, an invitation from someone or a travel certificate. Passengers who do not bother with documents are sent back on the same plane without ever setting foot on the soil of Chukotka.

Anadyr Airport in the village "Ugolnye Pi" is located on the opposite side of the Anadyr Estuary. In the summer season, you can get from the city to the airport by boat. The fare is 400 rubles. There is also such an exotic type of transport in our country - a hovercraft. If you want to travel in comfort, then by paying the taxi drivers a certain amount of money, they will take you to the place directly by car. The cars are loaded onto a barge, which transports them to the other side. The downside of this method is that you won’t be able to admire the sea views on the road. The sides of the barge are very high, and getting out of the car is problematic. They are placed very close to each other.

In winter and off-season, the only way to communicate is by helicopter. The ticket price is about 1500 rubles. When the ice freezes enough, vehicles are allowed to cross it. But due to the danger of this route, the ice crossing does not always work.

Anadyr welcomes you with clean, almost perfect roads and sidewalks. The houses are painted in cheerful colors. There are lawns all around, benches, trash cans, etc. are placed.

The ends of the houses are decorated with stylized posters depicting elements of Chukchi life - deer, shamanic drums, red caviar. All this is called “Chukchi artika”. You can feel the hand of a professional designer. On each poster, along with the Russian name, there is an inscription in the Chukchi language.

What do you think the bear is called in Chukchi? "Umk`y". Do you remember the famous cartoon about Umka? The deer is called “K,orans” and so on. Apparently all this is intended to preserve the traditional Chukchi culture and language.

The city makes a much more pleasant impression than most Russian cities. All this is the merit of Roman Abramovich. Anadyr before Abramovich and after - that’s two different cities. Gray, dirty, gloomy before and bright, modern, well-groomed after.

Permafrost is a layer of earth ranging from several tens to several hundred meters thick, the temperature of which has not risen above zero degrees for thousands of years. The foundation of a conventional building will heat the soil, causing it to melt and spread. Such a building will be unstable or even crack and fall.

For buildings standing on stilts, there remains a significant distance between the ground floor level and the ground. It serves to remove heat from the building. Thus, the soil is always frozen. Piles in such soil feel even better than in ordinary soil.

All communications are also carried out on the surface.

The central square of Anadyr - Lenin Square - is located on the elevated bank of the Anadyr estuary. The museum center "Heritage of Chukotka" is located on the square. The building itself has a very unusual architecture. Everything inside is done with the latest technology. On three floors there is an exhibition telling about the stages of development of Chukotka and the life of its indigenous inhabitants. On the ground floor there is a multimedia room. There is a concert hall in the same building.

Near the square is the Cathedral of the Life-Giving Trinity. The cathedral is the largest wooden church in Russia, built on permafrost, and the only cathedral in Chukotka. Like all buildings in Anadyr, the temple stands on stilts. The soil underneath it in summer time cool refrigeration units.

Not far from the cargo port there is a memorial “The First Revolutionary Committee of Chukotka”, opened in 1981.

The outskirts of Anadyr are huge tundra expanses with hills rising among them. The closest to the city are St. Michael’s Hill with an abandoned tropospheric communication station located on it, about 5-7 kilometers away, as well as St. Dionysius Mount, 50 km away. From almost anywhere in the city there is a magnificent view of these hills or the mountains located on the other side of the estuary. The city itself, also located on a hill, extends from its top to the waters of the Anadyr Estuary.

The road transport system in Chukotka is underdeveloped. And if on the side of the village of Coal Mines there is some kind of road network, then on the city side there are practically no roads. Those. in the city itself, of course, everything is in order, but immediately after it everything ends. Several primers of rather mediocre quality reach the tundra. But they also end pretty soon. It is impossible to reach any populated areas using them.

The flora of the surrounding area of ​​Anadyr is characterized by the complete absence of any trees. Unless, of course, you count their dwarf brothers. For example, there is a dwarf pine that literally spreads along the ground, and is even lower in height than many shrubs.

Towards the end of summer, the berry ripening season begins in the tundra. Lingonberries, blueberries, blueberries, shiksha (dropsy) - this is an incomplete list of what the tundra is rich in. In addition to berries, the tundra has a lot of different mushrooms. Just as we, residents of the middle zone, follow them into the forest, so the local population goes to the tundra to pick mushrooms and berries.

What is the tundra? This is usually a wetland covered with low bushes and grass. It is impossible to move along it in a car, even with cross-country ability.

The ideal means of transportation are various vehicles with reduced pressure wheels. Due to the low pressure on the ground, they do not fall into swamps. In addition, they move across the tundra on tracked all-terrain vehicles, leaving deep and long-lasting tracks.

The tundra in the vicinity of Anadyr is a monument to human mismanagement. A lot of rusty barrels, the remains of some mechanisms and machines that have remained here forever. The pinnacle of this is the abandoned tropospheric communication station on St. Michael's Hill. The most grandiose building!

It is necessary to say a few words separately about the tropospheric communication system. The system was created in the late 60s in order to provide communications to the regions of the far north.

The vast distance, permafrost and harsh climate did not allow laying cables. Conventional VHF communications operate over a distance of no more than 80 km. Satellite communications at that time were still poorly developed.

Therefore, the Horizon tropospheric over-the-horizon communication system was developed. Range 250 -425 km. The principle of operation of this system is the property of reflection of radio waves from the upper layers of the atmosphere. The problem was that the reflected signal was very weak, and it could shift significantly.

To solve the above problems and ensure a long communication range, it was necessary to build giant antennas with mirror dimensions of 20x20 meters, or 30x30 meters. Two antennas for each direction.

And so, at the top of St. Michael’s Hill there are six huge antennas (the station worked in 3 directions) and several smaller ones related to some other communication system. This is the former Yukon station - part of the Sever tropospheric radio relay link (TRRL). The station is equipped with diesel generator sets and could operate autonomously for a long time.

A network of such stations was located along the Arctic Circle throughout the northern USSR.

With the development of satellite communication systems, TRRL began to be significantly inferior to them. Ultimately, the system was finally closed in the late 90s. Yukon Station ceased operation in 2003.

Now only the wind blows among the antennas, technical buildings, and cables that are beginning to rust. One of the antennas has already fallen, the others are still standing. A few more years will pass and the rest will not withstand the pressure of the elements, burying the memory of one of the most ambitious projects of the USSR.

When talking about Chukotka, one cannot fail to mention one of its main riches. Along with gold, gas, oil, this is red caviar. Chum salmon spawning begins in August and ends in early September. This is the most fertile time for fishing.

They fish, of course, not with fishing rods, but with nets placed along the shore of the estuary. The Anadyr fish factory is engaged in procurement on an industrial scale. Everyone else needs to purchase a license to fish.

Fishing is prohibited on Monday and Tuesday. An exception is made for the indigenous people - the Chukchi. They will be happy to sell you both raw and already cooked caviar. It’s not worth buying ready-made caviar from them. It is completely unknown under what conditions it was prepared. But you can take raw caviar in eggs.

The egg is a thin but durable film that forms a shell bag in which the caviar of salmon and sturgeon fish is located. Raw caviar costs 300-350 rubles per kilogram. Feel the difference! In our stores, a kilogram of red caviar costs about 1,700 rubles. True, there will be slightly less finished caviar per kilogram of raw caviar, but nevertheless...

Making caviar is quite simple. The first thing you need to do is cook the brine. Brine is a solution of table salt, usually close to saturation. The water is brought to a boil and table salt is gradually added to it. You need to add it until it dissolves. Another way to check the readiness of brine is to use raw potatoes. If it does not sink in the solution, then the brine is ready.

Before salting, the caviar must be separated from the roe. This process is called screening. If there is not enough caviar, then you can get by with an ordinary spoon, but this is extremely inconvenient and not of very high quality. It is optimal to use a badminton racket. The nuts open and rub against the rocket, causing the eggs to separate and fall down.

After the screening is completed, the eggs need to be washed. This is done on gauze. That's it, now the caviar is ready for salting. We lower it into the brine for a period of 5 to 10 minutes. After drying for a short time, the caviar can be eaten or placed in jars.

The Chukchi often simply throw away the fish they catch during the spawning season, so if you need fish, they will happily give it to you completely free of charge. They themselves, of course, also prepare fish for themselves. The fish is cut and hung for drying in small sheds that literally litter the entire coastline near the village of Tavaivaam.

There is an opinion that the indigenous peoples of the north are now actively drinking themselves to death and degrading. I don’t know... Maybe it’s true, of course, but some kind of global process of degradation is imperceptible. No, of course, among the Chukchi there are those who actively abuse. At the same time, they look and live accordingly, of course. However, the majority, it seems to me, have perfectly integrated into the modern life of Anadyr and in their lifestyle do not differ at all from the Russian population.

One of the traditional folk crafts in Chukotka is bone carving. The jewelry made from walrus tusks is truly magnificent! Moreover, many are real works of art with a corresponding cost, which can reach up to 100 thousand rubles for individual copies! Expensive. Yes, it’s expensive, like all life in Chukotka. On average, food prices are at least twice as expensive as in Moscow. The cost of gasoline is 1.5 times higher!

This is due to the fact that the region exists solely on products and goods brought from the mainland. Once a year in the summer, during the northern sea delivery, the bulk of products and goods are delivered. Perishable products such as vegetables or fruits are delivered only by air. Their prices will shock an unprepared person.

The coat of arms of the city of Anadyr “Brown bear holding a fish in its paws against a background of white and blue stripes” was approved in 1999.

Anadyr is the capital of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug, located on the right bank of the Kazachka River at the entrance to the Anadyr Estuary, connecting the Anadyr River with the Anadyr Gulf of the Bering Sea. Its geographical coordinates are 64 degrees 44 minutes north latitude and 177 degrees 31 minutes 18 seconds east longitude. From Anadyr grew the now independent villages of Ugolnye Kopi, Shakhtarsky, settlements on Russkaya Koshka and Cape Heka, which in different years were periodically included within the city limits. The city owes its name to the river of the same name, at the mouth of which it stands. The toponym Anadyr goes back to the Yukaghir root “anu-an” - “river”. The Cossacks Semyon Dezhnev, who met the Yukaghirs who settled in the basin of this river in 1949, called it “Onandyr”, later interpreted as Anadyr.
The distance from Anadyr to Moscow is 6400 km. The population of the city (at the end of 2002) is 11,288 people.

Story
The history of the capital of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is inextricably linked with the history of our entire northern region.
When Russian industrialists-explorers penetrated into the extreme northeast of Asia, they discovered that the peoples of Chukotka were divided according to their economic and everyday life into two groups: sedentary sea hunters (Eskimos, sedentary / coastal / Chukchi, Kerek) and nomadic reindeer herders (Chukchi, Yukagirs , Koryaks, Evens). The material and spiritual culture of the indigenous peoples was fully adapted to the harsh conditions of the Arctic.
The impetus for Russian development of the territory of Chukotka was the founding of the Nizhnekolymsk fort by Semyon Dezhnev and Mikhail Stadukhin in 1644. It was this fort that would become the base for the preparation of many subsequent expeditions, when the explorers pursued the main goal of “finding new unknown lands” and “bringing them under the high sovereign’s hand”, establishing trade, searching for “a dead fish tooth” and at the same time resolving issues geographical discoveries. So, in 1648-1649, Semyon Dezhnev and his “comrades” on ships - kochas, adapted for sailing in the northern seas, first passed through the strait between Asia and America. After the remains of Dezhnev’s expedition, scattered by a storm, washed up on South coast Chukotka, by January 1649 he reached the mouth of the Anadyr River on foot. After spending the winter here, in the summer he and the remaining 12 team members went up the river and established a winter hut 18 km from the modern village of Markovo (since 1652, the Anadyr fortress). Repeated attempts to repeat Dezhnev's voyage from Kolyma to Anadyr around the Chukotka Peninsula were unsuccessful. Only the land road to Kamchatka through the Anadyr ridge and the fort was used, opened in 1650 as a result of the pedestrian crossing of M. Stadukhin and S. Motors from the mouth of the river. Bolshoi Anyui on the Anadyr River.
For 12 years of his stay on the Anadyr River, S.I. Dezhnev imposed yasak (a small tribute in furs, which was paid by Siberian foreigners “as a gift to the white king”) on the inhabitants of the middle reaches of the river. Anadyr. The Anadyr fort became a stronghold in the development of Chukotka and Kamchatka. It was from here that expeditions departed. In 1697-1699. Atlasova and Morozko to Kamchatka. In 1660, K. Ivanov to the Bay of the Cross and Providence Bay. In 1685, L. Morozko and I. Golygina went to the “Koryak land” to Cape Olyutorsky.
The first Russian expeditions to Chukotka were organized by merchants who lured Cossacks with them, and were not in the nature of a targeted state policy. Merchants were primarily interested in furs and walrus tusk. The first facts of barter trade between Russian merchants and the Chukchi and Eskimos date back to the mid-17th century. Attempts by the Russian state to impose tribute indigenous people Chukotka often met resistance. Until 1778, the Chukchi were considered a “non-peaceful” people, until the head of the Anadyr fort, Major I. Shmalev, signed a peace treaty with them.
At the end of the 17th and 18th centuries there was a period of intertribal wars in Chukotka. Military clashes between the Chukchi and Koryaks were especially frequent. The seizure of reindeer herds, along with nomadic reindeer herding, became one of the sectors of the economy of indigenous peoples who moved to the stage of “military democracy” in their social development. More numerous Chukchi left the zones of Russian influence and pressed aside the Koryaks, Kereks, and Yukaghirs, who sought protection from the Russians.
The discovery of Kamchatka, rich in sables, changed the attitude of Russian rulers to the development of Northeast Eurasia. In 1713, Peter 1 issued a decree on finding a sea route from the Okhotsk coast to Kamchatka, and in 1725 - on equipping the First Kamchatka Expedition (1725 - 1730) led by Vitus Bering to search for the strait between Asia and America and the routes to the latter. In 1728, Bering, with his assistant Alexei Chirikorv and the crew on the ship St. Gabriel, sailed from Kamchatka to the strait that was later named after him. At the same time, in 1729, in order to “pacify” the Chukchi wars and finally explain the indigenous population, a military expedition was undertaken under the command of Major A. Shestakov, but his detachment was defeated by the Chukchi. In 1731, Shestakov’s subordinate, Major D. Pavlutsky, undertook new trip. The Cossacks, accompanied by the Koryaks and Yukaghirs, reached the Arctic Ocean through the Anadyr and Belaya rivers and returned, defeating a detachment of Chukchi. In 1732, Dmitry Pavlutsky sent the boat “St. Gabriel" under the leadership of I. Fedorov and M. Gvozdev. They draw up the first map of the Bering Strait, putting the Diomede Islands on it. Subsequently, Pavlutsky several times undertook military campaigns with the goal of finally bringing the Chukchi into Russian citizenship, but they were of little effect. In 1747, on the Orlovka River (100 km south of the Anadyr fort), his detachment was defeated, and the fleeing Chukchi major was overtaken and killed at the hill now called Mayorskaya (in the vicinity of Markovo).
In the second half of the 18th century, the Anadyr fort, after the opening of the sea route to Kamchatka, finally lost its significance and was destroyed in 1771, management transferred to Gizhiga. However, the Russian government is undertaking a number of scientific expeditions, the purpose of which was to consolidate and develop new territories, including Chukotka. Purposeful study of this region began with the Second Kamchatka Expedition (1735 - 1745), in which G. Miller, I. Gmelin, S. Krasheninnikov, G. Steller and other outstanding scientists took part. They collected the first information about the peoples of the Far North, the geographical environment and fauna of the region.
In 1736,1739-1742 Dmitry Laptev undertook his voyages and campaigns. In 1763-1764, the first Chukchi scientist Nikolai Daurkin traveled around Chukotka, drawing up maps. In 1762, and then 1765, Nikita Shalaurov set off on a voyage around the Chukotka Peninsula in a northeastern passage from the mouth of the Lena to Cape Shelagsky.
The strengthening of Russian influence in Chukotka was greatly facilitated by the flexible policy of the Russian government in the second half of the 18th century and the development of trade relations with indigenous peoples. So, in 1779, Empress Catherine II - on October 11, 1779 - ordered “not to take any yasak from the Chukchi for 10 years, provided that they live peacefully with the Koryaks.” In 1788, the first fair took place on the river. Big Anyui. Later, the official fair was transferred to the Maly Anyui River near the former Anyui fort (the modern village of Ostrovnoye). Hundreds of reindeer herders came here, bringing arctic fox, fox, sable, otter skins, walrus tusks, deer meat, and seal belts for exchange. Russian traders brought tobacco, tea, iron axes and knives, copper cauldrons and other goods. The sale of alcoholic beverages at fairs was prohibited.
From the end of the 18th - beginning of the 19th centuries, the Russian population began to thoroughly settle in Chukotka, the villages of Markovo, Bannoye, Oselkino, etc. were actively being made. Attempts at Christianization were being actively undertaken local population, but only among the Evens did this religion spread widely. In 1839, a chapel was built in the village. Fortress, then church in Markovo.
The entire development of the northern Russian territories from 1799 to 1867 was supervised by a specially created Russian-American company, which was organized by G. Shelikhov and headed by A.A. Baranov.
In 1822, a special decree “On the management of foreigners” was issued, where the indigenous peoples of Chukotka were named among other peoples.
After Alexander II sold Alaska in 1867 for $7 million (4.7 cents per hectare), American traders and whalers began active activities in Chukotka. To strengthen Russia's influence in the northeast, a special Chukotka expedition was organized in 1868-1869 under the leadership of Baron Maydel. He managed to persuade some of the wealthy Chukchi to swear allegiance to the Russian crown.
Since 1872 The Russian government organized cruising of military ships along the coast of Chukotka.
In 1883, the self-taught Chuvan Afanasy Dyachkov in the village. Markovo opens the first parochial school in Chukotka.
On July 9, 1888, the Russian government decided to allocate the Anadyr district within the Gizhiginsky district, the first head of which was L.F. Grinevetsky. In 1889, he founded the Novo-Mariinsk post (now the city of Anadyr) on the shore of the Anadyr estuary. In 1897, the first population census was carried out in Chukotka under the leadership of the head of the district, who later became the Amur governor N.L. Gondatti.

Formation of the Anadyr district and the founding of the Novo-Mariinsk post.
On June 9 (old style), 1889, the clipper “Robber” entered the Anadyr Estuary. Officials of the newly created Anadyr district, Mr. L.F., arrived on the clipper ship. Grinevetsky - the head of the district, his assistant Mr. Dmitriev, 12 Cossacks, and construction materials, food and other goods were also delivered. The clipper was commanded by captain first rank N.P. Wulf. On July 21, 1889, construction of the first wooden house on Alexandra Spit was completed. On the second day, July 22 (August 3, new style), 1889, the house was illuminated, over which the Russian national flag was raised and a salute was fired from the onboard guns of the clipper "Robber". The illumination of the house took place on the name day of Tsarina Maria Feodorovna, which determined the name of the settlement: Mariinsk, but, taking into account settlements already existing in Russia with the same name, it began to be called Novo-Mariinsk. The post was founded not far from the ancient Chukchi village of Vien (from Chukchi, “entrance”) as a border point, a district center, but it grew slowly. Mostly government and private trade warehouses were built here. The most notable events of the early twentieth century were the discovery of placer gold in the Golden Ridge area and the construction of a radio station in Novo-Mariinsk in 1912-1914, which was then one of the four most powerful stations in Russia. Its long-wave spark transmitters made it possible to maintain communication with Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, Okhotsk, and Nome (Alaska).
Before the October Revolution of 1917, Chukotka was part of the Kamchatka region of the Amur region. At the end of February 1918, Soviet power was proclaimed in the Kamchatka region (though not for long), and in Chukotka the first body of the new government was the 1st Revolutionary Committee of Chukotka, which operated from December 16, 1919 to January 31, 1920. Envoys of the Primorsky organization of the RCP (b) Sergei Mandrikov and August Berzin organized a revolutionary international group, which included Ukrainians, Belarusians, Russians, Ingush, Latvians, Chuvans and representatives of other nationalities - 13 people in total. This group overthrew the power of the Kolchak administration in Anadyr and later established Soviet power in Markovo and Ust-Belaya.
The Revolutionary Committee organized the purchase of coal for free distribution to the poor, approved prices and standards for the distribution of goods, established control over the work of state food warehouses, increased teachers' salaries, nationalized some of the goods of Russian and foreign merchants in order to prevent famine in Markovo and Ust-Belaya, introduced universal labor conscription However, on January 31, 1920, businessmen organized a counter-revolutionary coup, later shooting 11 members of the First Revolutionary Committee. But already in the summer of that year, the power of the counter-revolutionaries was eliminated and a second revolutionary committee was organized, headed by the former Baltic sailor Vasily Mikhailovich Chekmarev. Then the Kolchakites again took power in Chukotka into their own hands. Soviet power in the region was finally established only in 1923, when the last detachments of Kolchak’s followers were expelled.
The formation of the First Anadyr District Revolutionary Committee on December 16, 1919 opened a new page in the history of the city. By this time, about 300 people lived in it. Soviet power did not last long then; on January 31, 1920, a coup organized by merchants took place, and in early February the Revolutionary Committee members were shot. But already on August 1, 1920, the new body of the people's revolutionary government - the Anadyr district executive committee - began to reorganize the life of the village.
From November 1920 to March 1921, the Kamchatka region was part of the Far Eastern Republic, where there was a struggle to establish Soviet power. Since November 1922, the Far Eastern Republic was transformed into the Far Eastern Region of the RSFSR. Revolutionary committees operated in Chukotka. On January 4, 1926, the Far Eastern Territory was formed with a transition from provincial and district divisions to a district district system. The counties were reorganized into districts: Anadyr and Chukotka. They became part of the Kamchatka Okrug.
On December 10, 1930, the Presidium of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee of the RSFSR adopted a resolution "On the organization of national associations in areas of settlement of small nationalities of the North." According to this decree, the Chukotka National District was formed with a temporary district center at the Chukotka Cultural Base (Gulf of Lawrence). In fact, already in 1931, Anadyr finally became the capital of the district.
For a long time, the post, then the village, was known under two names: Novo-Mariinsk and Anadyr. Renaming decision settlement in Anadyr was repeatedly adopted by various administrative bodies, until it was finally approved in 1924 by a resolution of the Kamchatka Gubernia Revolutionary Committee. The city inherited its name from Anadyrsk (Anadyrsky fort), founded on the river in the mid-17th century by pioneer Cossacks.
The development of Anadyr is connected with the development of the administrative-territorial structure of Chukotka. Since 1927 it has been the center of the Anadyr region. After the formation of the Chukotka National District in 1930, almost immediately, Anadyr became the capital of the district. Here in the early 30s. The first industrial enterprises appeared in Chukotka - a fish canning plant, which included the Coal Mines, located on the left bank of the Anadyr Estuary. To train personnel from the local population, the first secondary specialized educational institution was opened in Anadyr in 1939 - a pedagogical school, where many famous teachers, writers, scientists, and public figures of Chukotka began their studies.
On October 20, 1932, the Kamchatka Okrug was reorganized into a region, which, when the Far Eastern Territory was divided on October 20, 1938 into Khabarovsk and Primorsky, became part of the Khabarovsk Territory. The Chukotka National District remained part of the Kamchatka region.
On June 20, 1924, the All-Russian Central Executive Committee created the Committee for Assistance to the Peoples of the Northern Outskirts under the leadership of Smidovich. On June 27, 1927, the Joint-Stock Kamchatka Company (AKO) was created to develop the economy and supply food to northern regions, and at the beginning of 1930 the Chukotka District Integral Union was formed.
By 1928-1936 refers to the formation of aviation in Chukotka, the main airfields were Cape Severny (Schmidt) and Anadyr.
In the summer of 1930, the first reindeer herding collective farm was organized from united nomadic groups living on Gek Land.
In 1931, the first cultural institutions were created in the district: the District Museum in Anadyr and the Uelen bone-carving workshop.
In 1932, the first All-Russian Conference on the development of languages ​​and writing of the peoples of the North was held, after which committees for a new alphabet of the peoples of the North were created. On October 8, 1933, the first issue of the district newspaper “Sovetskaya Chukotka” /now “Far North”/ was published, and later a special supplement was published in the Chukotka language.
A huge role in the development of the economy of the Chukotka District was played by the organization on December 17, 1932 of the Main Directorate of the Northern Sea Route (GUSMP), which was engaged in the industrial and geological development of Chukotka. Under his auspices, polar stations, ports, airfields, and industrial enterprises were created; hydrographic and geological work was carried out. For the development of the Northern Sea Route in 1933-1934. An icebreaking voyage of the motor ship "Chelyuskin" was organized. The expedition was led by O.Yu. Schmidt.
On February 27, 1937, by order of the People's Commissariat of the RSFSR, the Chukotka Land Management Expedition was created, which allocated land for the economic activities of individual collective farms and enterprises and carried out zoning. According to this expedition, the population of the district in 1938 was 18,390 people, of which 12,101 were Chukchi, 1,280 were Eskimos, and 3,020 were visitors. 3.3 thousand people lived in the district center, the village of Anadyr.
On December 12, 1937, the first elections to the Supreme Soviet of the USSR were held in Chukotka. The first deputy to the Council of Nationalities from Chukotka was the Chukchi Tevlyanto, who simultaneously worked as chairman of the regional executive committee.
On October 1, 1939, the Anadyr Pedagogical School was opened to train specialists from among the residents of Chukotka.
During the Great Patriotic War, Chukotka provided enormous assistance to the country in the victory over fascism. Conscripts from Chukotka villages took part in battles on the fronts. Chukotka provided the metal necessary for defense - tin. In August 1941, the Chaun-Chukotka Mining Combine was created. The coal industry began to develop actively. During the war years, 199.4 thousand tons of coal were mined at the Anadyr deposit and in Ugolnaya Bay. During the war years, the Anadyr Fish Processing Plant supplied the front with 8 million cans of canned food, while a significant part of the product went to meet the needs of the district, because food was not imported from the mainland.
In the early 50s. In Chukotka, the collectivization of reindeer husbandry and marine hunting was completed, and a campaign to transform collective farms into state farms began, which lasted until 1975.
On May 28, 1951, by decision of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR, it was allocated to direct subordination to the Khabarovsk Territory. On December 3, 1953, the Chukotka National District became part of the Magadan Region.
Anadyr began to grow and develop rapidly since the late 50s. A maritime point appeared here, which in 1961 became a major seaport, through which all the necessary cargo and building materials for the first wooden two-story houses on the high right bank of the estuary were delivered. The village is becoming crowded on the historical Alexander Spit; it has stepped across the Kazachka River onto an elevated part of the tundra.
On January 12, 1965, by decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR, the village of Anadyr received city status. The food industry and construction industry have developed there. Four and five-story buildings have become familiar in its silhouette. Every year Anadyr is being landscaped and pleasing the eyes of residents with multi-colored facades of houses. All administrative and government agencies of the district, the district hospital, several secondary specialized schools and branches of higher educational institutions are located here. The basis of the city’s energy supply is a combined heat and power plant, which has been operating at full capacity since 1987. Communications are developing in the city; the first telephone exchange with 40 numbers came into operation in 1964. Now an automatic telephone exchange provides communication with all corners of our country and abroad. Since 1972, the Anadyr ground station for ultra-long-range space transmissions of the Orbit system has been broadcasting Central Television programs. The Anadyr television center, now transformed into the state television and radio company "Chukotka", was created back in 1967.
According to the 1977 USSR Constitution, the national district became autonomous.
In the 70s and 80s, the development of the leading sectors of the economy in Chukotka continued, changes took place in cultural life districts. On August 7, 1968, the first professional Chukchi-Eskimo ensemble "Ergyron" ("Dawn" translated from Chukchi) was created.
On December 9, 1970, the district was awarded the Order of the Red Banner of Labor, and on December 29, 1972, the Order of Friendship of Peoples.
In 1973, the first signs of oil were discovered in the Anadyr region, but field development began only recently.
In 1992, after Chukotka left the Magadan Region and received the status of an independent subject of the Russian Federation, Anadyr again received the status of a city of district subordination, which it had previously had until 1957.
Anadyr is not only the administrative, but also the cultural and scientific center of the district. There are several scientific institutions here, the district library named after. Tan Bogoraz, National College of Arts, original national ensembles “Ergyron” and “Chukotka”. The reconstruction of the Polyarny cinema was recently completed.
Many historical and artistic monuments are located in the city. Memorial to the First Revolutionary Committee of Chukotka by sculptor V.E. Queen. Palace of Children's Creativity, created by the architect Antonio Miche and engineer M. Galakhov, commissioned in 1974. Pioneers from all over the country collected money for its construction. Buildings of the early twentieth century, preserved on the site of the founding of the city - Alexandra Spit, where the old chapel has now been reconstructed and the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord operates.

Nature of Anadyr and its surroundings
The climate in the vicinity of Anadyr is greatly influenced by the Anadyr Bay of the Bering Sea. The weather here is very changeable, with monsoon winds often blowing from the sea. Influenced southern winds Floods are common, especially in late autumn. Other features of the climate include frequently changing atmospheric pressure. Average annual precipitation is 445 mm. The average annual temperature in Anadyr is 7.4 degrees. C. In 2001, the lowest winter temperature was recorded on December 26 - 39.6 degrees, and the highest summer temperature on July 21 + 24 degrees.
Anadyr and its surroundings belong to the subzone of shrubless tundra. The nature of the vegetation here is also determined by the proximity of the sea and harsh winds. Near the city, only dwarf trees and rare shrubs grow in the tundra, and in the spring it amazes with the bright colors of the blooming flowers of rhododendrons, poppies, fireweed, polar lilac, wild rosemary. In summer and autumn, the tundra pleases the townspeople with an abundance of mushrooms and berries: cloudberries, blueberries, shiksha, lingonberries. Old-timers of Anadyr claim that the most mushroom and berry places are in the area of ​​​​the two hills of Dionysius and Mikhail, which are located a few kilometers from the city. Among the cultivated plantings, several types of shrubs, alder, poplar, and willow, have taken root on the city streets. Enthusiasts grow tomatoes, cabbage, and cucumbers in greenhouses, and radishes and lettuce in open ground, not far from the city in a place called “dacha.”
Many feathered inhabitants flock to the outskirts of the city in the spring - gulls (kittiwakes, herring and glaucous gulls), skuas, Arctic terns, several species of waders. Partridges, snow buntings, polar owls, magpies winter here, sea ​​vessels The sparrows also arrived here, delighting the townspeople with their chirping. At the bird market of Alyumka Island, which is near the city, mottled puffins, puffins, guillemots, and Beringian cormorants settle. During a tour around the outskirts of Anadyr, museum staff will tell you many ancient legends about Mount Dionysius and the island of Alyumka, the name of which is translated from the Chukchi language as “a piece of something tangled.”
The area around the city is inhabited by ermines, weasels, arctic foxes, brown bears, and sometimes white bears. But most of all, city guests remember their encounters with eurashkas (long-tailed ground squirrels). These funny animals are almost tame; they do not hesitate to beg for bread crumbs from mushroom pickers and berry pickers.
Wonderful fishing off the coast of the Anadyr Estuary. In the summer, salmon, nelma, pike are caught with a net, and salmon and smelt are caught with fishing rods. But city residents prefer to catch smelt from under the ice, using spoons in winter, because at this time of year it is large, fatty, with caviar and fragrant with a cucumber scent. At the end of April, every year on the ice of the estuary a competition to catch this fish, “Korfest,” is held. Among the inhabitants of the waters of the estuary, the attention of tourists is always attracted by beluga whales with their cubs, who stage entire dance performances, and arctic seals (seals, as they are affectionately called in Chukotka), which stick out their curious faces near the nets of fishermen and in whole groups surround boats carrying passengers to another shore of the estuary.

Key dates in the history of Chukotka
XXX – V111 thousand BC e. – the oldest Paleolithic traces of humans in Chukotka.
11 – 1 thousand BC – spread of the culture of wild deer hunters throughout Chukotka.
End of 11 thousand BC e. - the beginning of the formation of the Eskimo culture of sea hunters.
1644 – foundation of the Nizhnekolymsky fort.
1648 – 1649 – sailing of S. Dezhnev and F. Popov around the Chukotka Peninsula from the river. Kolyma on the river Anadyr.
1652 – construction of the Anadyr fort.
1728 – Vitus Bering’s voyage to the shores of Chukotka and the Bering Strait.
1771 – Liquidation of the Anadyr fort.
1778 – I.S. Shmalev concludes a peace treaty with the Chukchi.
1778 – J. Cook’s voyage to Cape Ryrkaipiy.
1883 – opening of the first parochial school in Chukotka in the village. Markovo A.E. Dyachkov.
1888 – organization of the Anadyr district.
1889 – foundation of the Novo-Mariinsk post L.F. Grinevetsky (now Anadyr).
1897 - the first population census in Chukotka was carried out by the head of the district N.L. Gondatti.
1909 – creation of the Chukotka district with its center in Providence Bay. In 1912, the district center was moved to the village. Whalen.
1914 – opening of the first radio station in Chukotka.
December 16, 1919 – The First Revolutionary Committee of Chukotka took power into its own hands.
February 2, 8, 1920 - members of the First Revolutionary Committee of Chukotka were shot.
1924 - The Committee for Assistance to the Peoples of the Northern Outskirts was created under the All-Russian Central Executive Committee.
On October 7, 1925, the Anadyr and Chukotka regions were formed.
August 1928 – the Chukotka cultural base was organized (Lavrentia Bay).
December 10, 1930 - creation of the Chukotka National District.
December 17, 1932 – the Main Directorate of the Northern Sea Route (GUSMP) was created.
April 22-28, 1932 – 1st Chukotka District Congress of Soviets.
July 10, 1933 – Chaunsky district was organized.
October 28, 1933 – the first issue of the newspaper “Soviet Chukotka” (now “Far North”) was published.
1933 – 1934 – expedition led by O.Yu. Schmidt along the Northern Sea Route on the motor ship "Chelyuskin".
October 1, 1939 – Anadyr Pedagogical School was opened.
1941 - opening of the first Pyrkakai mine and the Valkumey mine for tin mining in the Chaunsky district.
May 18, 1951 – By decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR, the district was removed from subordination to the Kamchatka region and transferred to the Khabarovsk Territory.
December 3, 1953 – Formation of the Magadan Region, which included the Chukotka National District.
1954 – Iultinsky district was formed.
1957 - Beringovsky and Providensky districts were formed.
1958 - the first industrial gold was mined on the river. Ichuveem.
February 15, 1960 – the first state farms were organized: “Markovsky”, “Anyuysky”, “Kanchalansky”.
1960 – Markovsky district was abolished.
1961 – East Tundra region was renamed Bilibinsky.
January 12, 1965 – village. Anadyr received city status.
April 6, 1967 – the village of Pevek received city status.
1967 – Anadyr Television Center held its first television broadcast.
August 7, 1968 – geologists of the Anadyr complex expedition discovered a gas deposit of industrial importance.
September 21, 1969 – reburial of members of the First Revolutionary Committee of Chukotka in Anadyr.
December 7, 1970 – the first floating power plant in the Arctic, “Northern Lights”, gave power.
December 9, 1970 - the district was awarded the Order of the Red Banner of Labor.
December 31, 1970 – Bilibino television station “Orbita” was put into operation.
March 15, 1972 – the Anadyr television station “Orbit” was put into operation.
December 29, 1972 - the district was awarded the Order of Friendship of Peoples.
January 28, 1973 – the first signs of oil were discovered in the Anadyr region.
1973 – Shmidtovsky district was formed.
January 12, 1974 - the first unit of the Bilibino nuclear power plant gave current.
August 24, 1974 - the Palace of Pioneers (now the Palace of Children's Creativity) was opened in Anadyr, funds for the construction of which were collected by pioneers throughout the country.
1977 – the district received autonomous status.
February 1979 – regular non-stop flights began passenger flights Moscow - Pevek.
January 1980 – first flight of the Tu-154 Moscow – Anadyr.
February 1983 – the first non-stop flight of the Il-62 aircraft on the Moscow – Anadyr route.
1989 – the city of Anadyr became a sister city to the city of Betl (Alaska).
1992 - Chukotka Autonomous Okrug became an independent subject of the Russian Federation.

Today we will continue our virtual trip in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug and turn our attention to the other side of the Gulf of Anadyr, which also contains many attractions. However, sights in the classical sense of the word are rare in Chukotka, but there are as many amazing places shrouded in an aura of mysticism, magic and beauty as you like.

Gudym. To obese Soviet times on weekends and holidays the asphalt was washed there with a fire truck...

Humming today is a sad and at the same time amazing sight.

Scope of construction of buildings, roads, training grounds, tankodrome and other buildings, by speed of construction for regions "permafrost" was unprecedented. But the most amazing structure, erected on the outskirts of Gudym, is, of course "Portal"- an underground command post for controlling nuclear missile launches, located deep in one of the hills. The impressive dungeon, the upper level of which can still be penetrated today, amazes with the scale of the structure, the degree of protection and the presence of a well-preserved narrow-gauge railway.

Barracks of town No. 2

According to these and many other parameters, Gudym is considered "first among equals" from among the abandoned military bases on the territory of the former USSR. Today there is not a soul there and only rare scrap metal collectors and adventurers disturb the peace of the ghost town. At its best, several thousand people lived here, mostly members of military families who were supplied with "mainland" by category "A", such as the apparatus of the CPSU Central Committee. Provision at the highest level affected all spheres of life, even teachers of the only school in Gudym came from Moscow. However, all this idyll suddenly disappeared into oblivion with Gorbachev’s coming to power. First, nuclear weapons were removed from there, then supply conditions changed, and finally, with the destruction of the Union, completely dark times came for the inhabitants of Gudym. The dissolution of the facility lasted until 2002 and "dead city" continues to keep his secrets completely alone. Today Gudym is an excellent setting for a disaster film. A post-apocalyptic landscape with picturesque ruins of military installations is one of the best places for industrial tourism in the category " done and forgotten in the USSR".

Boxes and barrels

Washbasins

Be h shift guard of the city of John

Several of the following attractions in the Anadyr region add up to something like: "Golden Ring", especially since the entire route is directly related to the noble metal. The Golden Ridge with its highest point, Mount Ioanna (1014 m), stretches for 70 km, originates from the Gudym hills. deep into the Anadyr Lowland. And the first unusual place, apart from the natural splendor of the mountain range, there is the village of Zolotogorye, located on the southern spurs of the ridge of the same name. At the very beginning of the last century, resourceful Yankees began to mine gold here industrially, and after the establishment of Soviet power in Chukotka, they were replaced by domestic gold miners. Today, the mines, as well as the scattering of former miners’ villages, are abandoned. During times "developed socialism", Zolotogorye, being the center of gold mining in the Anadyr region, was the same closed place as Gudym. Now, in these foothills, in addition to curious bears, you can also find people: preserved artifacts of the Soviet past and contrasting views of the Golden Ridge against the backdrop of the surrounding tundra attract more and more tourists here every summer.

Zolotogorye and the city of Ioanna

The next point after Zolotogorye is Chukotka "Golden Ring", Perevalnye lakes are graceful bodies of water, so named because of their location on both sides mountain pass. The narrow gorge and wonderful views made this inaccessible place a real pearl of the Anadyr region.

The last point of the route, the very heart "Golden Ridge"- the city of Zolotaya (925 m) has excellent observation deck. In good weather, from its top you can see Anadyr and its surroundings, Michael’s Hill and Mount Dionysius. And although the Chukotka landscapes are a topic for a separate, big conversation, we can say with confidence that any trip to this lost world is unthinkable without a panegric to the local beauties.

Road to the village Shakhtyorsky

Returning to Anadyr, before turning to Ugolnye Kopi, you can turn into another abandoned village, located on the shore of Melkaya Bay near the Second Gorka hill. This is Shakhtyorsky, an urban-type settlement that almost completely repeated the sad fate of Gudym. The reforms of the 90s brought to naught all production, including the oldest fish canning plant in Chukotka, built in 1929. Abandoned to the mercy of fate, residents sought to move as quickly as possible, if not to "mainland", then at least in Anadyr and in 1998, the district leadership began implementing the decision to completely liquidate Shakhtyorskoye.

village Shakhtyorsky

In addition to inspiring landscapes in the style of urban cyberpunk, Shakhtyorsky has a unique monument of the Soviet era, which has miraculously survived to this day. This is a small, dilapidated obelisk to the first Chukotka pilot Timofey Elkov. In addition to it, a lot of artifacts from the Soviet period have been preserved here: household utensils, books, children's toys, household appliances, cars and even airplanes. Near the village there is Cape Observation, which offers wonderful views of Anadyr and the entrance to Kanchalan Bay.

According to the latest data, the monument will be updated and moved to the village. Coal Mines

Resorts of the Bering Sea

This side of the Anadyr Estuary, where the diversity of amazing and harsh Nature is intertwined with the aesthetics of decadence, surpasses the capital's environs in the abundance of remarkable places. And although crisis phenomena in our lives are a constant, Chukotka fully makes us feel the variability of our world. Here the inexorable time is felt more deeply, which sooner or later will bury any hopes of a conformist for "enduring values". At one time, Abramovich’s famous relative, King Solomon, subtly noticed this, expressing the whole essence in a well-known prophecy phrase: "This too shall pass"...

Wind turbines in Chukotka

Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

The Chukotka Autonomous Okrug occupies the most northeastern part of Eurasia, it covers a piece of mainland land, the Chukotka Peninsula, the islands of Ratmanov, Wrangel, Aion, Herald and several more. Here is Cape Dezhnev, which is extreme point mainland in the east. The district's lands are washed by three seas belonging to two oceans. The Chukotka Peninsula cuts like a wedge into the world ocean, separating the waters of the Pacific Ocean from the waters of the Arctic Ocean.

On a territory occupying more than 720 thousand km 2, which could accommodate France and Great Britain, only about 50 thousand people live, of which about a quarter are indigenous people - the Chukchi. Almost half of the lands of the Chukotka Okrug are located beyond the conventional border of the Arctic Circle, and the entire territory is considered the Far North. Paradoxical but true: part of the easternmost region, the Chukotka Peninsula, is located in the Western Hemisphere.

The Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is adjacent to two other subjects of the Russian Federation - and. About eighty kilometers separate the region from the American peninsula and the state of Alaska, with which the border runs along the Bering Strait, so the district is considered a border region.

There are 3 cities, 15 towns and about 45 villages in the district. The administration is located in the central city of Anadyr with a population of about 15 thousand people. It is located on the coast of the Gulf of Anadyr, which belongs to the Bering Sea.

Traces of human habitation since prehistoric times in Chukotka are numerous and eloquently indicate that Alaska and Chukotka were once a single continent, part of which sank under water about 10 thousand years ago. Scientists have dubbed the hypothetical continent Beringia. They suggest that the settlement of Chukotka took place precisely through the sunken isthmus, since many finds on the land of the peninsula indicate that Indians, Aleuts, and Eskimos lived there even before the Chukchi. In the 17th century, Chukotka was explored by Semyon Dezhnev, declaring it a Russian possession. He also built the first fort, which was later demolished. At the end of the 19th century, Grinevsky founded a border post, which was then called Novo-Mariinsk. The renaming to Anadyr occurred already in 1923, after the establishment of Soviet power. The district with the status of “national” was formed in 1930. It became an independent subject of the federation in 1992.

Relief and climate Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

The district's topography is characterized by an abundance of lowlands, hills, highlands and ridges. In the west there is the Ush-Urekchen mountain system and the Oloi ridge; the center with the Anadyrskoye plateau intersects the Anyuisky ridge with the volcano of the same name. The east is occupied by the Chukotka Plateau, and the southeastern part of the peninsula is occupied by the Koryak. The south is the Anadyr Lowland. Most of the hills located in the east have a rounded shape and are hills, the picture of which from the sea has become the hallmark of Chukotka.

75% of all lands are tundra, about 7% are forest-tundra. The rest of the territory of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is located in the zone of Arctic deserts. The low-lying lands of the district are swampy, there are many lakes, the water of which is so pure that it can be drunk without danger. Lake Elgygytgyn is considered the deepest, with a depth of about 170 meters, and the largest is Krasnoye, which occupies about 600 km2. The longest river in Chukotka is the Anadyr - it stretches for 1117 kilometers. Among the largest rivers are Anyui, Omolon, Velikaya, and Amguema. The reservoirs of Chukotka sleep under ice for almost 8 months. The rivers of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug are characterized by rapid and heavy floods.

The East Siberian Sea is filled with the coldest waters, the water of the Chukchi Sea is slightly warmer, but autumn storm winds raise waves up to 7 meters high there and form 5-6-meter hummocks. The Bering Sea is the warmest and most suitable for navigation.

The relief and climate of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug became the reasons for the sparse population of the region. If the mainland is characterized by an arctic climate, then the coasts are sharply continental and maritime. Windy and frosty winter lasts up to nine months. A blizzard can last for weeks. Summer is characterized by cool weather and rain. Not everywhere during the summer period the snow on the surface of the earth has time to completely melt, and in its depths the permafrost never melts.

Average January temperatures vary by region and range from -15°C to -39°C, with temperatures reaching -60°C in the west of the region. In July average temperature varies by region from +5°C to +10°C. Sometimes there may be some hot days. The absolute record for heat was +34°C.

Roads - Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

Due to the vast territories, harsh climate and low population density, road construction is a very expensive undertaking. Travel over long distances is carried out by sea or by air. Railways in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug, except for departmental narrow-gauge railways, there are no railways.

The international airports of Chukotka are located in Anadyr and the village of Provedeniya. From there you can fly to Anchorage or Nome in the American state of Alaska. The federal airport is also located in Pevek. From these airports you can fly to Moscow, Khabarovsk or Magadan. Local airlines connect these airports with each other and each of them with remote villages of the district.

Sea communication, difficult during freeze-up, connects five ports of federal significance: Egvekinot, Beringovsky, Provedeniya, Pevek, Anadyr, and each of them with the “mainland”.

The roads of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug for the most part consist of strips of compacted snow or winter roads, which can only be driven by snowmobiles, all-terrain vehicles or off-road trucks. Only roads in cities and suburbs have a hard surface.

The federal highway is only about 30 kilometers long and connects the Anadyr helipad with the Coal Copies airport. An eight-kilometer section of this route runs directly across the ice of the Gulf of Anadyr. Construction of a highway is underway that will connect the center of the region with Kolyma through Omsukchan and Omolon.

Rest - Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

Life in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is not easy and requires local residents courage, perseverance and calmness, and even more so from visitors. But those who dare to challenge the harsh climate are rewarded with the hospitality of the Chukchi, vivid impressions of the northern landscapes that have not changed for centuries, and the unique way of life of the indigenous people.

Living in a real yaranga, taking part in a walrus hunt, pulling fish out of icy water - a traveler in Chukotka will experience a lot of new, previously unexplored sensations. Holidays in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug are possible both in the short, bright summer and in the cold, snowy winter - albeit with varying degrees of extremeness.

The district has developed water, cruise, scientific, ethnographic, expedition, historical and event tourism, and all these types do not exist on their own, but in close connection with each other.

Tourists raft the waterways of Chukotka on inflatable boats or kayaks in July or August. Cruise ships from America, Britain and Kamchatka ply along the coasts of the Providensky and Chukotka regions. Tourist ships make stops to explore the Whale Alley, ethnographic villages on Capes Dezhnev and Nunyamo, and plunge into the Lorinsky hot springs.

Summer sea cruises are organized from Anadyr along the coast, to Onemen Bay, to the Kanchalansky or Anadyrsky estuary, to the mouths of the Velikaya or Anadyr rivers. Travelers watch the bird markets of Alyumka Island, the play of beluga whales and curious seals.

Scientific tourism in Chukotka is represented by numerous expeditions of scientists different countries, studying the unique life of small peoples, their languages, crafts and methods of survival. Ornithologists come to study birds, of which there are about 220 species, and oceanologists come to study the resources of the northern seas.

Historical tourism is based on about five hundred archaeological monuments, which completely change the established ideas about the course of development of civilizations: Chukotka was inhabited by people who knew how to process metal when there was neither Ancient Greece nor Ancient Rome.

Ethnographic tourism in Chukotka allows you to get acquainted with the customs, art and life of the Chukchi, Eskimos, Koryaks and Evenks, who greet guests with traditional hospitality and hospitality. Event tourism is associated with participation in colorful national holidays: festival of sea hunters, folklore festivals, rites of thanksgiving, festivals of the whale, young deer, first calf, stingray and many others.

Any long hiking or skiing trip in which participants discover inaccessible places, their reserve capabilities and strength of spirit can be extreme and expeditionary in Chukotka.

Outdoor recreation in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

The most wonderful sights of the Chukotka District are worth visiting natural conditions, despite the harsh climate. Archaeological sites alone number in the hundreds. Among them are the world's northernmost petroglyphs - drawings on rocks on the banks of the Pegtymel River, which stretch for several kilometers. South of the Cape Dezhnev, archaeologists excavated “Arctic Troy” - an Eskimo settlement that serves as confirmation of the existence of an ancient unique civilization - original, ideally adapted to life in the north.

Guests of Chukotka may be interested in getting acquainted with the protected treasures of Wrangel Island, the Swan federal reserve, the Beringia ethnopark, and seven district natural, ornithological and zoological reserves.

The unique lands of Wrangel Island are known for numerous walrus rookeries; Arctic dolphins and whales swim in its coastal waters; musk oxen and domesticated reindeer live there. Polar bears come there to give birth, thousands of seabirds and white geese nest.

The upper reaches of the Anadyr River are decorated with a geological monument - Lake Elgygytgyn - one of the three lakes in the world that have an absolutely regular circular shape. An area of ​​110 km2 is filled with pure water to a depth of 174 meters. It is assumed that the water fills either an ancient volcanic crater or a crater from a meteorite fall.

Outdoor recreation in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is often associated with a visit to the iconic point of Chukotka - the intersection of the Arctic Circle with the 180th meridian, from which a new day begins. Having passed under the arch symbolizing the Arctic Circle, travelers approach a post with indicators indicating the distance to South Pole(17408) and Moscow (10468 kilometers). Those interested can visit the northernmost cape of Chukotka, Shelaginsky, with a lighthouse and an unexplored natural monument - Slab Alley, a six-meter chain of granite walls.

Tourists are definitely invited to visit one of the Russian wonders - Whale Alley, located in the Bering Strait, on Yttygran Island. In a rocky bay, on the gentle slopes of hills covered with tundra herbs, there are numerous white pillars, which, upon closer examination, turn out to be the bones of whale tusks with the nasal parts of skulls dug into the ground. On the way to Whale Alley, travelers visit the fjords of Provedeniya Bay - the most beautiful natural places in Chukotka.

In the Providensky district, the thermal Senyavinsky and Novochaplinsky springs bubble out of the ground, in the hot water of which you can swim in equipped pools all year round. On east coast Chukotka, on the healing thermal Lorinsky springs, a balneological resort complex has been opened.

Tourism - Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

For tourists and local residents, active recreation in Chukotka consists of hiking and skiing trips, multi-day summer trips on ATVs and winter trips on snowmobiles, alpine skiing, river rafting, winter and summer hunting or fishing, and climbing small hills. Tourists watch national pastimes - sled races pulled by dogs or deer, whaleboats or kayaks, and sometimes take an active part in them or learn to throw zakidushki, chaat or a harpoon.

The rivers of Chukotka attract fishermen, athletes and extreme sports enthusiasts. Water tourism in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug it is active in July and August, when the rivers are full and the weather is more or less favorable. The most popular are rafting on inflatable boats or kayaks along Amguema, with a length of 310 kilometers, Ekityki - 94, Chantalveergyn - 150 and Anadyr - about 300 kilometers. Motor boats can be rented in Anadyr, the villages of Ust-Belaya, Makarovo, Egvekino, Amguema.

On a trip to Cape Navarin, tourists find themselves among hundreds of thousands of birds soaring everywhere on the ocean shore, covered with dense clouds. Travelers reach the cape, called the Cape of All Winds because it is often hit by storms and wild winds constantly blow around it, after a 250-kilometer journey on foot or by combining walking and water crossings.

On ATV trips along the coasts of two oceans, tourists overcome mountain ranges, cross dozens of rivers in Chukotka, cross Arctic Circle and the 180th meridian.

A ride on ATVs with a hike to the Dionisiy and Komsomolskaya hills, about half a kilometer high, has not so much a sporting, but an aesthetic meaning, since the hills offer a panoramic view of the Golden Ridge, Onemen Bay and the Kanchalan Estuary. On almost any hike, tourists are given the opportunity to drive reindeer or dog sleds.

In winter, tourists are invited to take part in a multi-day snowmobile hike across the entire Chukotka, and in summer, a mixed (on foot, car and boat) route to Cape Dezhnev with visits to many tourist sites And natural monuments, such as a waterfall falling from a cliff directly into the Bering Strait. The most courageous extreme sports enthusiasts can go to the North Pole on a dog sled.

IN Chukotka District Alpine skiing is popular. All conditions are created here on the slopes with lifts and rental points on the slopes of the Portovaya and Pionerskaya hills near the villages of Provedeniya and Egvekinot.

Hunting and fishing - Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

Fishing in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

The region is known for its large-scale marine fishing, and recreational fishing in Chukotka is famous for salmon - chinook salmon, chum salmon, sockeye salmon, coho salmon, pink salmon and others. Fishing in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is carried out not only on the seas, but also in lakes and rivers.

Here it is difficult to draw the line between sea hunting and fishing, when hunters are engaged in the traditional hunting of walrus, seal, seal, and bearded seal. The Bering Sea alone is home to more than four hundred species of fish, representing 65 families. About fifty of them can become fishing targets. Sea delicacies include crabs, cephalopods, and squid.

The lakes of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug and other water bodies of Chukotka are home to about forty species of fish, but the main ones are: smelt, char, salmon, whitefish, nelma, grayling, burbot, and pike. On Red Lake you can fish for pike, pink salmon, chum salmon (outside the spawning ban), nelma, broad whitefish, and whitefish. After the ice melts, a beluga whale comes into the lake. In Lake Pekulneyskoe in large quantities sockeye salmon and white fish live, and Elgygytgyn is inhabited by palia and char, but this lake is among the reservoirs prohibited for fishing.

Fishing for whitefish and Pacific salmon is carried out on a fishing trip basis. WITH last day For three months in June, there is a ban on spinning salmon fishing in rivers flowing into the seas and their tributaries, except for trolling using a fishing line up to 0.3 mm thick and a hook with a distance between the tip and shank up to 7 mm. There are length restrictions on catching various types of biological resources. It is necessary to release kunja, anadromous Dolly Varden, lenok, burbot shorter than 45 centimeters, salmon and taimen less than 70, whitefish - 40, catfish, pike - less than 50 and so on in accordance with the fishing rules.

The rivers of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug of the Kolyma basin are famous for their catches of broad whitefish, two types of whitefish, peled, vendace, and whitefish. The reservoirs of the Mainypilginsky system and the area of ​​the Anadyr estuary serve as places for catching large quantities of chum salmon. Organized fishing in Chukotka is often carried out during river rafting.

Hunting in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

Hunting has always served the indigenous peoples of the region as a means of subsistence. Marine hunting along with poultry hunting, polar bear or deer allowed them to survive in arctic conditions.

Hunting in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is carried out on lands spread over hundreds of square kilometers. The slaughter of animals is allowed: elk, wolverine, lynx, brown bear, fox, squirrel, arctic fox, muskrat, wild deer, wolf, mink, ermine, otter, hare, sable. Among the birds you can catch are white-fronted and bean geese, partridges, ducks, and stone grouse.

It is prohibited to shoot weasels, polar bears, black-capped marmots, and bighorn sheep, but if the minimum population level is exceeded, a license can be issued for any of these species. Among the birds it is not allowed to shoot swans, brent geese, barnacles, mallards, white geese, eiders, shovelers, whelks, teals, cormorants, gulls, sandhill cranes, owls, woodpeckers and a number of other useful birds. From marine mammals Hunting of narwhal, humpback whale, fin whale, sei whale, blue and gray whale and minke whale is not permitted.

Commercial hunting for wild deer in Chukotka makes it possible to satisfy the population's need for dietary meat. Of the birds, the largest reserves are distinguished by the white partridge, for which the season opens on the third Saturday of August and lasts until the end of February.