How to get from Tallinn to Saaremaa. Travel to the island of Saaremaa. Kaali Meteor Crater

Alas, but in one of the most beautiful places Baltic region, the island of Saaremaa cannot be reached directly from Russia. The thing is that the only Kuresaare airport on the island accepts only Estonian Air flights from Tallinn. The good news is that there are daily flights, so if you want to get there by air, everything is simple. From Moscow to Tallinn (flight time 1 hour 40 minutes), and then from Tallinn to Saaremaa (40 minutes). But not everyone likes this route; not everyone likes flying, and it’s a bit expensive. Therefore, I propose to consider more budget ways hits Saaremaa. We will depart from Tallinn, because it is not difficult to get to the Estonian capital and there is no point in detailing the route.

Kuresaare Airport

Bus

Direct bus services Tallinn - Kuresaare depart daily, with a frequency of approximately 1 bus per 1 hour from central bus station Tallinn, located at Lastekodu, 46. This is actually the very center of the city, so it won’t be difficult to find it.

Despite the fact that the distance from Tallinn to Kuresaare is only 220 kilometers, the travel time, including the ferry crossing, will be approximately 5 hours.

Tallinn Central Bus Station

Automobile

If you are traveling by car, then leave Tallinn on the romantically named highway No. 4 (north of the city), get to highway No. 9, and then get to highway No. 10, which will lead you to the port of Virtsu, where you will need to take the ferry to Kuwaitsu port. There are many signs, the roads are good and relatively free. It's almost impossible to get lost.

It is worth noting that the ferry does not go to the island of Saaremaa, but to the island of Muhu. But this should not scare anyone, since Muhu and Saaremaa are connected by a dam.

Ferry tickets can be purchased on the spot or in advance online. At the same time, a plus electronic ticket The problem is that you will be loaded onto the ferry in a separate queue, which is faster. Although this is not so important, because loading and unloading is worked out to the smallest detail and does not take much time.

Ferry to Virtsu

Ferries depart every hour, and the travel time, including loading and unloading, takes 40-50 minutes.

After arriving at the port of Kuivatsu, you take the same highway number 10 and drive to Kuresaare. The road at an average speed of 80-85 kilometers per hour will take no more than 40-50 minutes.

Well, let's talk about the main thing: how to get to the island of Saaremaa?

In ancient (read, “Soviet”) times, the island was located in the border zone and travel was strictly with passes. Strangers did not roam here - tourism as a phenomenon did not exist at all. At the same time, planes flew regularly, and the Raketa, a hydrofoil motor ship, sailed from Riga. At a cruising speed of about 60 km/h, the distance was covered in less than two hours.

Unfortunately, “Rocket” no longer exists, as does direct sea communication with Riga: the main transport is now ferries. And the journey to Riga or back takes at least 5 hours. But we’ll come back to this later, but for now let’s talk about airplanes.

The airport in Kuressaare has been modernized and, theoretically, can accommodate even hefty aircraft: the runway is 2 kilometers long. However, the potential is not used well: only small planes fly daily to Tallinn (ticket price from 26 euros; capacity up to 11 people) and to the island of Ruhnu (23 euros). The rest of the fleet is private and rare charters. What year have they been talking about organizing a direct air traffic with Riga, St. Petersburg and Moscow, but so far things have not gone beyond conversations over a cup of coffee. It’s a sin, and I’m trying to participate in this process, but I can’t boast of success.

Of course, they come into our harbors and big ships. But individually, cruises and occasionally - to the port of Veere, in the north-west of the island. Much more relevant - ferry service with the island via the Virtsu-Kuivastu crossing. The distance there is small, literally a few kilometers, ferries cover it in 20 minutes; They run every 40 minutes, give or take.

Open a spherical panorama by clicking on the picture

And everything would be fine if not for two “buts”. First: ferries do not operate at night (after midnight until five in the morning); I didn't have time - sorry. This causes a lot of trouble for the residents of the island, who need to return late in the evening or be on the mainland early in the morning. And second: in summer time There are frequent queues, so when heading from afar it is better to think through everything in advance and book a place for certain time- bypass the queue. You can do this here: www.praamid.ee The cost of travel by car is 8 euros per car and one and a half euros per passenger.

The ferries are new, built in 2016. Very comfortable. For tourists (as opposed to locals) this is another cool thing: on board there is a large bistro, a cafe, fast WiFi, a bunch of outlets for charging devices, toilets, again. They can accommodate up to a hundred cars and a dozen buses or heavy trucks at a time.

Going to Saaremaa by car is the surest option: yes, the island is full of public transport plus there is car rental (from 25 euros per day) and bicycles (relevant when staying in Kuressaare; you can drive ten kilometers to the sea, pedaling, sunbathing and drinking a cold beer on the go - there are a lot of cool bike paths around the city). But a car is more comfortable: you can get to any place on the island, easily and quickly. Stay not only in the city, but also in a remote tourist village - there are plenty of them, and in the summer they are much more more attractive than the center. Getting from Tallinn to Kuressaare, including the ferry, takes 3 hours, from Riga - 5 hours.

At the same time, buses that run no less regularly can be cheaper: prices start from 10 euros; the line is served by several operators, including luxexpress.eu. In addition, there are Facebook groups offering ride-hailing from anywhere in Estonia for 5 - 7 euros: this option is most often used by students.

That, in fact, is all the possibilities. Although no, I forgot one more thing - on ice: when the sea between Virtsu and Kuivastu freezes, an ice crossing is opened across it. Only for passenger cars. But in recent years the winter has been warm, so alas.

Saaremaa island and the main attractions of Kuressaare. Bishop's Castle, Powder Tower and others interesting places cities. How to get to Kuressaare from Tallinn and what to see in this place. My story about a trip to the island of Saaremaa.

I love the North. Places like the island of Saaremaa always have their own indescribable charm and their own special magic. It manifests itself in the sound of the waves of the cold sea, in the quiet whisper of pine forests and in the sights of huge stones that are found here and there along the road. You look at them and imagine that this is a giant troll, frozen under the light of the amber sun. Remember in the movie "Bridge to Terrabitia"? Our imagination can sometimes work wonders. And it is in such places that fairy tales about elves and giants become a little more real.

Yes, I understand, I’m already 27. But at heart I’m still a teenager, so get ready – this article will be pure vanilla. In the end, this is my blog - I write what I want. Well, as for the island of Saaremaa, it is truly a very unusual and fascinating place. When I was just applying for an Estonian visa, one day they called me from the embassy to clarify my route. I told the center employee that I was going to Tallinn, Tartu and Kuressaare. She listened to me quietly. But as soon as she heard the name of the main city of the island of Saaremaa, she suddenly perked up.

— Are you going to Kuressaare for half a day? – she asked in surprise. “But this is such a wonderful, wonderful place.” Just look at everything very briefly. I would like to come there for at least a couple of days.

And she then repeated these words in other variations two or three more times. I laughed it off and said, “Give me a longer visa, and I’ll come see you some other time.” But somehow she didn’t particularly appreciate my humor. Take my word for it: she was almost indignant at the thought that I was only going to Kuressaare for 5 or 6 hours. Then Tanya and I even laughed that she herself was probably from the island of Saaremaa. And that is why my travel plan so hurt her feelings towards her small homeland.

Okay... Why am I saying all this? Besides, that embassy employee was right, in fact. I was somehow touched by this place from the first chords. Bathed in the rays of the amber sun, the island of Saaremaa seemed to me like a fragment of a parallel universe. I squinted from the sun, shivered from the cold wind, rolled on the ice, thinking that I was about to find myself waist-deep in water... But in the end, I was very glad that I still ended up in this place. Let me tell you more about him. Are you ready (the story will be long)? Well then let's go.

What are Saaremaa and Kuressaare (in a nutshell)

Remember the movie Playing God with David Duchovny? So now I will have a film “Imagining Wikipedia”. In short, in a nutshell, the island of Saaremaa is the largest of the 1521 islands of Estonia (yes, yes, I know, I opened my mouth when I found out that Estonia has as many as one and a half thousand islands). However, only 5 percent of the population of this state lives in the island part. Considering that the country’s population is not particularly large, the city of 14 thousand Kuressaare, by local standards, generally looks like a real metropolis.

In the summer, this sleepy one-story town turns into a quiet retirement resort - with numerous spa complexes and a cool sea. As I understand it, this is such a local Druskininkai. Well, or an analogue of the Serbian Palic, where Tanya and I have already been this year.

Moreover, as it was written in one magazine that I read on the way here, the number of rooms in local hotels is almost a third higher than the population of the city itself. In this regard, there is even a special joke on the island: in the summer, due to the abundance of spa centers, this island is often called “SPAaremaa”. But I was in this place in December. And in winter, Kuressaare seemed a completely empty and lifeless city. Yes, I understand, it doesn't sound very good. But at that moment I was even glad about it. From the sight of the empty streets that stretched around, the feeling of the unreality of everything that was happening in me only became stronger.

How to get from Tallinn to Kuressaare (Saaremaa island)

Now get ready to be surprised again: despite the size of Estonia, the most popular transport to the island of Saaremaa - this is airplane. At least, that’s what was written in most guidebooks dedicated to this place. When I was preparing for this trip, I read a lot that there is a good modern airport(which, however, even in peak season, rarely receives more than 80 passengers per day). Flight with " big land» is carried out on compact and small ships (at a price of 40 euros for a round trip ticket). And the travel time takes no more than half an hour.

But at this point I immediately need to make a reservation: I myself did not check this information, and on all the search engines where I tried to find such tickets, they were happily absent. Wikipedia says that only two companies operate flights to this airport - LFH and Avies. But that’s all – with your permission, I’ll leave this moment out of the equation. And instead, I’d rather write about how I went to this island myself.

So... Personally, I got to the island company busesLuxExpress. They run between cities several times a day, so finding the optimal time is easy. Their buses themselves are very good: there is a toilet in the cabin, a free coffee machine, wi-fi and a personal monitor in each seat (with films, music and other joys of life). The standard fare is around 9-16 euros (the earlier you buy, the cheaper). However, during promotions and sales, prices are often reduced to 2 euros.

Another option to cheaply get to the island of Saaremaa is to use company flightsSimpleExpress(coming from Tartu).

Their buses are simpler, but their prices are lower (from 1 euro). Therefore, I personally would advise you to check both options and then choose the most suitable one from the two.

Ferry, sunrise and the endless Baltic Sea

You know what’s most amazing: my first memories of the island of Saaremaa begin not with the island itself, but with a ferry crossing and a huge ship that absorbed trucks, cars and buses, like a huge sea giant.

The photos were taken from the bus window...

We entered the inner deck, and the people who were with me on the bus all began to quickly get out. Yielding to the herd instinct, I also quickly jumped onto the platform, and, catching some Russian-speaking peasant (who had been watching the LifeNews and Russia 24 channels all the way next to me), asked him where everyone had gone. In short, it turned out that there was a buffet on the ship. That is, while the bus is crossing, you can drink coffee, sip some soup or chew some kind of bun.

To tell you the truth, I would have chewed something in the morning too. But Estonian prices did not leave me much choice. And I decided to just go out on deck. I stepped through the door that led to the open bow of the ship. And at that moment, in a matter of moments, any thoughts about food flew out of my head. Dawn Baltic was magnificent. Leaden clouds stitched with the strokes of dawn, an endless sea covering everything to the very horizon, and high windmills that are frozen somewhere ahead... I hope the photographs will be able to convey at least part of all this splendor...

I also photographed the Estonian islands on the other side of the crossing (from the bus windows), as if trying to leave with me forever a bit of this cold northern beauty. I photographed the road, forests, stones near highways, doll houses frozen in front - but due to the movement, many of the pictures turned out blurry. Therefore, all that remained for me was to place all my hopes on Kuressaare itself. And finally, after some searching, I finally found what I was looking for here.

Sights of Kuressaare (Estonians say “Kurrreesaarre”)

So... Now about the city itself... Get ready for a small fly in the ointment. I’ve been scattering vanilla epithets here for three pages already, but in fact, I didn’t immediately like Kuressaare. It’s generally difficult to fall in love with this city at first sight. You arrive at the station and there are wooden houses all around. I don’t even know how to describe it to you... My friend Mirek, seeing this, said: “Like we have in Sapotskin” (this is a town near Grodno).

In essence, Kuressaare is such a big village. A village, European, of course. But still a village. Most of the city is represented here by one-story buildings. And don’t listen to anyone who starts telling you about “unique examples of Estonian wooden architecture.” Village. Dot. That's all.

Therefore, keep in mind that the concept of attractions in Kuressaare has a certain degree of convention. Well, look: there is an old fire station and the local town hall building (they are together in the picture)...

The quaint Church of St. Lawrence (located right across from a couple of strip clubs)…

A monument to some Estonian soldier...

And a nice house of market “importance” (this is the place where in the old days goods brought by traders were weighed - something like the control scales that we once had on Komarovka).

That's all. I even immediately regretted it when I came here.

The city itself is a combination of old wooden streets and modern buildings in the Scandinavian style. In short, a village, as I said. Although villages in Estonia, of course, look different from those in Belarus. In the evenings, I think, here you can do more than just drink and gnaw on sunflower seeds on a bench. Among the achievements of civilization in the city there are two large supermarkets, several good restaurants (including a rather nice “Irish Pub”), some kind of art gallery, a museum and several modern centers for the sale of new cars (the fact of their existence in a town of 14 thousand makes me wonder I was very surprised). It also made me smile that in many hardware stores, along with standard lawn mowers and mini-tractors, they also sold mechanical boats. Somehow you immediately feel like you are on an island. Cool…

As for attractions, there is only one real pearl in the city - ancient bishop's castle, which stands right by the seashore. Next to it there are several more colorful wooden buildings and a restored Powder Tower. From the city side there is a long road leading inside the fortress wall. wooden bridge. Inside the citadel - outbuildings, embankments, as well as the tower and castle themselves.

The uniqueness of Kuressaare Bishop's Castle lies in its age - or rather, in the fact that it is the only castle in the Baltic countries that has survived to this day in its original form. Inside the castle there is a museum (entrance costs 5 euros), which, of course, was safely closed in winter. However, just walking around the walls of the medieval bastion is already incredibly pleasant. Plus add to this the sea views that open from the ramparts - and you will understand what I am talking about.

Sea, sunset and a couple of giants

Kuressaare Episcopal Castle is a bright and cool attraction. But in fact, for me personally, the main pearl of the island of Saaremaa is still the sea. Directly opposite the castle there is a secluded beach with well-groomed paths and trees, whose branches synchronously stretch straight towards the sea. In December, besides me and my friend Mirek, only a couple of English-speaking tourists walked here. Imagine this picture: a deserted beach, ancient castle and the amber sunset over Baltic Sea... Beauty.

The road along the beach...

Bishop's Castle...

Deserted beach...

Traces of seagulls on the frozen sand...

Sunset over the Baltic Sea

Krumka... Meet me. Remember, I wrote in my

Of the one and a half thousand large and small Estonian islands, Saaremaa is the largest. Everything on the island breathes history: houses with thatched roofs and stone fences, working windmills, home-made beer, a special dialect local residents. It is here, in this colorful, quiet place, where civilization has still preserved the way of life of its ancestors, and the word “nature” suggests the epithet “virgin”, one of the resorts of Estonia is located - Saaremaa.

How to get there

The uniqueness of this small island in the Baltic Sea lies in its isolated geographical location. Only the dam across the Väike-Väin Strait, along which highway, connects it with the neighboring island of Muhu. But more often you can get here by ferry. To do this, you need to get to the port of Virtsu, and then take a ferry to Muhu Island and after 70 km by car or shuttle bus get to the city of Kuressaare - the center of the island. Buses run to Kuressaare every day from Tallinn, Tartu or Pärnu.

If you want to choose the sea route, then with the mainland and neighboring islands Ship and ferry traffic is maintained through the ports of Myntu, Triigi and Roomassaare. The only airport in Saaremaa is also located in Roomassaare.

Where to stay

On the small island of Saaremaa there are plenty of places where you can stay. Tourism is the main direction of the region's economy, so everyone who comes to the island can stay in quite cozy home hotels, small hotels, comfortable hotels or luxurious spa centers.

Modern SPA centers in Saaremaa, where you can rent a room for two for 100 euros per day, offer a wide variety of services: aqua centers, hydromassage and sauna, swimming pool, salt cave, various types massages (classical, therapeutic, aromatic), mother-of-pearl wrap and much more. In Kuressaare we can recommend, for example, Georg Ots SPA Hotel, Meri Spa 3* or Ruutli Spa 4*. You will be offered cheaper housing for 40 euros, but the quality of services will be significantly lower.

Renting apartments, apartments and guest houses is much more profitable than staying in a hotel, and you can even afford a small whim - rent an apartment overlooking the bay for a week.

Story

The environmentally friendly resort of Saaremaa is located on a flat area, and its lakes Suur Laht, Mullutu Laht, Karujärv sparkle like large beads among numerous forests and juniper heaths.

According to historians, the territory of the island was inhabited 8,000 years ago and has seen dozens of battles in its lifetime. The population was under the rule of Denmark and Germany, Russia and Sweden. IN late XIX century, the first health resort was opened here, and since then Saaremaa has become a popular resort island. In the old days, during its heyday, the island was known not only in Estonia and Western Europe, but people came here to be treated with the unique sea air and healing mud even from Australia.

Weather conditions

The island of Saaremaa is characterized by a mild maritime climate. Since Saaremaa is located in a temperate climate zone, it is characterized by mild winters and relatively long, warm summers. The hottest month is July, when during the day the air warms up to +16...+20 degrees, but at night it is quite cool - +10...+12. But for January, the coldest month at the resort, -4 degrees is the temperature norm, although at night there are frosts down to -10.

During the autumn and winter months in Saaremaa, the weather changes frequently and there is a lot of precipitation (on average about 510 mm per year). The reason for this is strong winds blowing from the sea.

During the swimming season, which lasts from June to August, the sea warms up to +20 degrees. However, you can come to the resort all year round, because people recover and receive treatment in any weather.

Things to do

Why do tourists go to Saaremaa? First of all, for health. A unique combination of sea air and the aroma of a coniferous forest, healing mud containing so many elements of the periodic table that even the Dead Sea would envy it, the purest sea water- all this has been in use for 170 years, when the first hospitals opened on the island. Moreover, such healing mud as in Lake Mullutu Suurlaht is not found in any mud bath in the world.

The resort of Saaremaa also attracts with its beaches, which stretch along the entire coast. There are many of them here: sandy, with a gentle entrance to the sea, but mostly pebble and rocky.

Lovers of a rich cultural or sports life also come here, because there is always something going on on the island: either a maritime festival, or Kuresaari Opera Days, even Castle Days. Sports fans can expect the Saaremaa Rally and the Cycling Tour in June or October.

There is something to do for amateurs too active recreation: fishing, cycling, horse riding, exciting sea travel on boats and yachts with visits to small neighboring islands, the most interesting of which is the seals.

Here you can see various natural objects, protected by the state, for example, national park Viilsandi or Viidumäe Nature Reserve. And in the city of Kaali you can “gaze” at the largest meteorite crater in Europe or the famous mills in Angla. Add here various historical sites, for example, medieval castle A bishop with real dungeons and instruments of medieval torture or the Mihkli farm museum on Wiki, and you can immediately understand that you won’t be bored in Saaremaa.

Shopping

Many people often go shopping when traveling. Saaremaa is no exception. IN local stores, shopping centers, malls, souvenir shops and markets there will always be some little thing that will remind you of your trip to this resort island. For example, the product of their local stone - dolomite, or souvenirs and dishes made of juniper.

You can buy clothes from local designers, well-known branded items, costume jewelry, precious jewelry, and technical innovations. In general, you won’t leave local retail outlets empty-handed.

In general, you always want to return to Saaremaa. There is something for everyone here: travelers with the whole family will enjoy SPA treatments, romantic couples and dreamy natures will find solitude in numerous farmsteads; fishing lovers will be happy to settle in the towns of Pyahkla, Kalakula or Pidula.

You are doing the right thing by considering all travel options, since this is the only way to choose the best one. suitable option(both in terms of time and in terms of savings). If you are planning a trip together, then renting a car and traveling further to Saaremaa in it will be a fairly comfortable option, but at the same time the most expensive. Judge for yourself: the distance from Tallinn is approximately 225 kilometers and you will have to spend at least 30 euros on gasoline alone. Depending on the class of car, daily rental starts from 30-35 euros. You won’t be able to get to the island directly; you’ll have to take a ferry across a 7-kilometer strait. Lots of time ferry crossing It won’t take long, but it’s still an additional expense (the crossing time is about an hour). You can pay for the fare on the spot, before the crossing. The cost of ferrying a car is about 10 euros. I do not advise you to focus on this method of travel, as it is not very convenient, expensive, and without knowing the roads and terrain, additional difficulties may arise.

Here's the opportunity direct flight From Tallinn to Saaremaa it is worth paying attention, as it is fast, comfortable and not so expensive. I think you are well aware that the cost of flights in Europe is much cheaper than here, especially if early booking tickets. Between Tallinn airport. Airlink operates regular flights to Lennart Mary and the island airport of Kuressaare. You can find detailed information on the airline's website, but general rule V weekdays There are two flights: at 8.35 and 18.35, on Sunday only at 18.35, and on Saturday only at 10.50. The flight time is only 40 minutes and compared to a multi-hour car ride, the difference is simply colossal. Tickets go on sale 12 months before departure, and their minimum cost starts from 30 euros. This price includes 5 kg hand luggage and 15 kilograms of luggage.

There is also a bus service between Tallinn and Saaremaa, and you don’t have to make any transfers: you take the bus to the capital and get off directly on the island, in its main city of Kuressaare. The journey takes place by land and by ferry. Transportation is carried out by different companies, and all flights operate between 8 a.m. and 10 p.m. The number of flights depends on the day of the week, but usually there are at least 10. When choosing a carrier, pay attention to the fact that each company has different services. Some offer Wi-Fi to passengers, others have multimedia buses, some have air conditioning and toilets. Buses depart from the Tallinn bus station at Lastekodu 46 and deliver passengers to their destination in about 4 hours. Buses make several stops along the route.

The cost of an adult ticket ranges from 13 to 18 euros. It is advisable to purchase tickets in advance, and not postpone the purchase until the day of the trip, since there may not be any free seats (the destination is very popular). I advise you to pay attention to the carrier Lux Express, which, about a month before the trip, organizes various promotions and offers some tickets for only 5 euros.

On the one hand, it may seem that the most best option this is an airplane: fast and inexpensive, but this is only if the amount of your luggage does not exceed 15 kilograms, otherwise you will have to pay extra. It is for this reason that many tourists prefer buses.