Excursion to the island of Kefalonia from Patras. Natural and architectural attractions of the island of Kefalonia. Useful for tourists

This piece of sushi popular destination among those who want to see the real Greece with untouched landscapes, traditions and picturesque coastline. Before you is the island of Kefalonia - the largest of the Ionian islands of Greece, and if you compare it with other Greek islands, the influx of tourists here came at a later period. Only since 2001, after the release of the film “Captain Corelli’s Choice”, Kefalonia began to be included in the list of “must-see destinations”.

Kefalonia Island, Greece: mountains and sea

Sights of Kefalonia

Mountain villages surrounded by greenery, Byzantine monasteries and natural attractions - Kefalonia is ready to offer tourists a rich program.

Photo www.iefimerida.gr/

Famous for its magical beauty Melissani cave. They can’t call it anything other than a miracle: the cave was carved out of limestone rock over decades by salt water. One day, its arch partially collapsed, and through the resulting hole, the rays of the sun fell vertically, which seemed to illuminate the azure water with elusive shades. In ancient times, Melissani had a special meaning. It was believed that nymphs lived here - this fact was established after the discovery of numerous cult figurines. Today, tourists ride boats on the clear surface of the lake, looking at the ancient stalactites on the walls of Melissani.

The cave has gained no less popularity Drogarati. It is one of the most picturesque caves in Greece, famous for its large hall and stalagmites of incredible shapes. Excellent acoustics and capacity (almost 1000 people) make Drogarati not just natural monument. Live concerts are regularly held here; the hall for them is 65 m long, 45 m wide and 20 m high.

Concert in the Drogarati cave, Kefalonia. Photo www.kefalonias.gr

A significant part of Kefalonia is occupied National Park Enos. Species of coniferous trees unique to Greece grow here. In addition to them, you can see orchids and several varieties of wildflowers. For lovers of long hiking In Enos there are routes of varying lengths and difficulties. There are places for recreation in the park (clearings and gazebos), but you need to take food with you. Since Enos is located at an altitude of 1600 m, it can be chilly here - it is worth taking care of suitable clothing.

Monastery of St. Gerasim

Among the religious shrines of the island, the monastery of St. Gerasim - patron saint of Cephalonia. Saint Gerasim was a descendant of a noble family and received a good education. Subsequently, he became a monk on Holy Athos and made a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, where he lived for 12 years.

In 1555, the monk Gerasim settled in Kefalonia and lived the first five years as an ascetic in a cave near Lassi. In 1560, he moved to the mountains, to a dilapidated chapel, and founded a monastery here, which he called New Jerusalem. Now this monastery bears his name, stores many icons and is a place of pilgrimage - on August 16, the relics of St. Hundreds of people come to worship Gerasim. A plane tree planted by Gerasim during his lifetime has been preserved on the territory of the monastery. And next to the monastery there is a cave with two rooms, which were the saint’s home.

The beaches of Kefalonia are some of the best in Greece

Poros beach, Kefalonia. Photo www.iefimerida.gr/

The beaches of the island have long received worldwide recognition. The most popular of them is Myrtos, which is among the best in Greece. Myrtos is located at the foot of the mountains, surrounded by rocks and its shape resembles a crescent. The beach is covered with snow-white pebbles. Here you can not only swim in the azure waters, but also enjoy a spectacular sunset or explore a small grotto. There is a snack bar on Myrtos, and it is possible to rent a sun lounger. There is a road leading to the beach, where there are observation platforms.

Kefalonia has one of the most amazing beaches in Greece - Xi, which is shaped like the letter “xi”. It stretches for 4 km and is strewn with dark orange sand.

Xi Beach, Kefalonia. Photo http://ionianinfo.com/

There are many taverns on the edge of the beach and hotels nearby. Another beach - Skala - also cannot be ignored. It charms with its cleanliness and is suitable for boat trips to isolated bays.

Agia Jerusalem beach is located near Fiskardo and is named after the dilapidated church on the edge of the beach. The bay here is small and is divided in half by a rock in the middle, in clear water Seahorses are common. The beach is equipped with umbrellas and sun loungers, and there is a traditional tavern nearby.

The island has many small cozy beaches in bays and wide sandy ones in more open places, you can find a place to your liking: Platis Gialos, Makris Gialos, Platy Ammos, Dafnoudi, Alates, Katelios, Kaminia and others.

What else to do on the island

For entertainment in Kefalonia, you need to go to Argostoli, the capital and largest city of the island. Argostoli has been the capital since its founding in 1757. It is located in an amphitheater on the mountainside, and despite the fact that the city was almost completely destroyed by the 1953 earthquake, you can still find corners with old architecture.

Old Cephalonia... Photo www.iefimerida.gr/

...and new Cephalonia. Photo www.iefimerida.gr/

The central square is home to bars, shops for every taste and restaurants. Shopping can be done on the pedestrian shopping street Litostroto.

Souvenirs for Lithostroto. Photo www.iefimerida.gr/

Photo www.iefimerida.gr/

Photo www.iefimerida.gr/

Nightlife in Kefalonia is not very intense, but the capital has many decent options for an evening out. In local establishments you can listen to reggae, dance or go to a traditional Greek evening. If you go out for an evening stroll around the city and are lucky, you may encounter a local orchestra, which often brightens the atmosphere with traditional tunes.

In addition to the central square, in Argostoli there is Kambana (Bell) square, named after the high bell tower located on it. Climbing to the very top of the bell tower, you will admire panoramic views of the city and the sea. It is also worth seeing a photo exhibition that shows the city as it was before the earthquake.

It is also worth visiting the local Archaeological Museum and the Korialennio Library, which, in addition to storing books and manuscripts, is also an ethnographic museum. In addition, in Argostoli you can see the ruins of the ancient city of Kranj, with the remains of Cyclopean walls. Of course, this is not all that can be seen in the city; there would be a desire to learn and explore the history of the city and its surroundings!

Fiskardo

There are good bars and taverns in the village of Fiskardo. This is a cozy village with a beautiful embankment that has preserved its Mediterranean flavor.

Diving enthusiasts will find several dive sites in Kefalonia. There are two equipped dive centers in Fiskardo. Their instructors will point out the most protected places off the coast of the island for observing underwater life. The Lassi Dive Club organizes dives near canyons, caves, reefs and wrecks. By the way, a special program has been developed here for children over 8 years old.

Kefalonia will also be of interest to lovers of gastronomic tourism. The fertile soil provides the island with organic products, from which they produce cheeses, the famous bacagliaropita pie, quince jam, caramelized almonds and Robola wine.

Photo www.iefimerida.gr/

Kefalonia will be remembered as an island of aristocratic beauty that adorns the advertising brochures of Greece. Here you can choose a vacation to your liking: relax or spend time actively, retire to protected places or allow yourself to become a local for a while, fully experiencing the hospitality of the island’s inhabitants.

Excursions in Kefalonia from private guides and travel agencies.
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Kefalonia- the largest of all the Ionian islands, located opposite Patras and an ideal place for those who like to relax in Greece. The area of ​​the island of Kefalonia is 900 sq.m., the capital is Argostoli. The main cities are Lixouri, rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1953. and the new port city of Sami.

The island of Kefalonia takes its name from the mythological hero Kefal, who took possession of the island and gave it his name. It is believed that Odysseus, the legendary king of the nearby island of Ithaca, descends from the handsome Cephalus. The population of Kefalonia is only about 40 thousand people, the length of the coastline is 254 km. At the same time, Kefalonia is known for its wonderful nature, beautiful beaches, as well as such attractions as the monastery of Agios Gerasimos, Mount Enos, the village of Fiskardo with Venetian architecture, etc.

The coasts, with their bizarre outlines, form many picturesque bays and capes. The most famous are the bays of Sami, Myrtos, Lourdes, Argostoli and Livadia. The coast of the island on the Ionian side mainly consists of sheer cliffs, while eastern part The coast of Kefalonia has soft continental outlines.

The island of Kefalonia is famous for its caves, such as underground cave and at the same time the bottomless Lake Melissani, the Drogkarati cave, etc. Attractive for tourists in Kefalonia, of course, is the most beautiful beach - Myrtos, which is located in the northwestern part of the island. This beach has been repeatedly voted the best beach of the Greek sea, as well as the best beach in the Mediterranean. Western part The island of Kefalonia (Paliki) can rightfully be proud of the Petani beach, which is not inferior in beauty to Myrtos.

Video from Kefalonia

Kefalonia is rich in attractions and interesting places. For example, national reserve which is majestic mountain range ENOS. This is the most high peak islands (about 1628m). Numerous plants growing here are listed in the Red Book, since their numbers are extremely small - these are some violets, rare species...

O. Kefalonia: tours and activities

Kefalonia remains untouched for now mass tourism, however, tourists are offered interesting routes. For example, sightseeing tour in Kefalonia. It covers all the most important attractions of the island: Myrtos, Katavotres, the castle on the Asos peninsula. Lunch and some free time in Fiskardo are provided. After lunch, guests will visit the unique caves of Melissani and Drogarati, explore the monastery of St. Gerasimos and visit the Robolla wine factory with a mandatory tasting. The duration of the journey is approximately 8 hours, it starts at 9:00 and ends approximately at 17:00.

Cruise on the water “Onassis Dreams”. Provides a unique opportunity to visit three islands and get in touch with the history of the Onassis family. The excursion begins on the island of Kefalonia in the port of Sami, from which pleasure boats head north from the village of Fiskardo. The first on the program is the island of Meganisi - in the village of Spartochori you can enjoy a charming view of the islands of Madouri and Skorpios. The latter is privately owned, but tourists will have the opportunity to swim in the clear emerald waters. On the island of Lefkada, in the port of Nydri there is provision for lunch and shopping.

Tour from Kefalonia to Ithaca. Starting from the hotel, tourists take a comfortable bus to the port of Sami, where they transfer to a ferry going to this legendary island, which occupies an honorable place in Greek history. During the tour, the guide will remind you of the travels of Odysseus, once sung by Homer. First, guests will get acquainted with the capital of the island - Vathi, located on the shore of a very beautiful bay, in the center of which is the small island of Lazaretto. The village of Kioni, the pearl of the island, is built in the northeast of the island. And in the village of Stavros, where there is a bust of the ancient Greek hero Odysseus, you can taste local sweets.

Another exciting excursion is a visit to the Monastery of St. Gerasimos, who is the patron saint of the island. The program also includes a tour of the Rubola winery and tasting of local wines, and the magnificent stalactite cave of Drogaratti. Guests will definitely have lunch and a walk in Sami. This excursion will take approximately 7-8 hours.

History of Kefalonia

Historical studies of Cephalonia have shown that the island was inhabited even in the Paleolithic era. The first to inhabit it were the Greek tribe Lelegi, who lived there since the 15th century BC. The Lelegs worshiped the pagan god Poseidon, the king of the sea. The history of Kefalonia, thanks to the events held at…

The climate in Kefalonia belongs to the Mediterranean climate zone, which is characterized by hot and dry summers and rainy, mild winters. In August the air warms up to +35°C, and the average temperatures of Kefalonia island range from +37°C in summer (highest temperatures) to +5°C in winter (lowest temperatures). A more detailed picture of the island's climate can be seen by looking. Kefalonia is also characterized by the absence of strong winds, even in summer time.

The most favorable time to go to the island of Kefalonia is from May to September. At this time, the water in the sea is already warming up enough and there is no sharp temperature difference between day and night. In October it is still warm, but in the early mornings and at night it becomes much cooler.

O. Kefalonia: entertainment and active recreation

Kefalonia has a lot of interesting offers for lovers active recreation. And although the main entertainment for tourists from all countries remains beach holidays and sightseeing, active entertainment always attract travelers' interest. On Xi Beach, for example, vacationers are offered jet skis, water skis and parachutes for rent. Here you can go canoeing, play tennis or basketball, ride a horse, or go fishing.

Each resort of Kefalonia has traditional tourist destinations entertainment venues, nightclubs, restaurants and markets filled with local flavor that will pleasantly surprise shopping lovers. Fans of diving in Kefalonia will also find entertainment to their liking - diving into crystal clear waters and exploring the beauty of the local underwater world. If you wish, you can rent a yacht or boat in the port to enjoy the beauty of the island from the sea and visit interesting places accessible only by water.

At the end of summer and until the beginning of autumn, travelers who can get to the embankment of the city of Argostoli will be able to see and capture as a souvenir the most interesting sea turtles “Kareta-Kareta”, which annually swim to the shores of Kefalonia. For those who are close to eco-tourism and walks in the fresh air, the main objects of excursions remain amazing caves and grottoes, ancient rocks and beautiful beaches. You can also explore the bottomless lake-cave of Melissani, formed as a result of the earthquake. There, travelers will be invited to go down into the cave to admire the crystal clear underground lake, whose water has a unique bright blue hue.

Transport features of Kefalonia

Basic coastal cities and the villages of the island of Kefalonia are connected by bus service. It is characterized by irregularity, as a result of which tourists travel by bus least often. The best option- car, motorcycle or bicycle rental. Most Rent-a-Car bureaus are located in Lassi and Argostoli. Taxi prices are low and you can always ask the driver to pick you up at the appointed time from any point on the island.

From the Argostoli bus station (located on the southern embankment), up to 11 buses per day depart towards Lassi (fare €1), 4 buses per day to Sami (fare €2.50), two buses to Poros (fare €4.50) , and two buses to Skala (€4.50) and to Fiskardo (fare €5). East Coast Kefalonia is also connected by bus services, but more rare. They run between Katelios and Poros, Sami, Skala, Agia Efimia and the village of Fiskardo. Buses do not operate on Sunday.

Ferries run between Argostoli and Lixouri almost every hour (in season), they accept cars on board (operate from 7:30 to 22:30). The journey takes about 30 minutes, the cost is 1.6/4/1 Euro per person/car/motorcycle. In Agia Efimia you can rent a boat and visit secluded beaches on it. From Skala in the summer, 2 buses depart in the mornings to the capital - Argostoli; In winter the bus runs only once a day. The return bus from Argostoli to Skala leaves in the afternoon, as most shops in the island's capital close at 14:00.

Kefalonia is considered one of the most popular islands The Ionian Sea, the length of its coastline is two hundred and fifty kilometers, the island gained real fame after the release of the film “Mandolin”, after which its attendance increased many times over.

The peak season is in the summer, local beaches in no way inferior to exotic Asian countries.

The 1953 earthquake claimed the lives of a large number of people; many survivors were forced to leave the island, as they saw no way to restore the destroyed infrastructure.

Over time, all the settlements were rebuilt, the increasing number of tourists from year to year allows us to hope for the best even in not the best crisis years.

How to get to this part of Greece?

The safest and fastest way of transportation is considered to be a direct flight from Athens; flights are carried out by Olympic Air and Sky Express.

In summer, routes to Corfu and Zakynthos are added to the main flights.

The main island airport is located near Lassi and Argostoli, and due to its fairly compact size, it seems crowded if there are two planes on it at the same time. The airport experiences the greatest load on Sunday and Tuesday; on these days, real chaos begins here.

Buses from Athens also run to Kefalonia; the journey takes much longer, but in seven hours it provides an excellent opportunity to explore large number amazing places.

Ferries are another affordable means of transportation, with routes operating from Italy as well as mainland and island parts of Greece.

Tickets between the islands are sold at the ticket offices located next to the piers; they are not available for pre-sale; it is best to apply an hour before departure, when the ticket offices open.

Ferries transport vehicles and passengers; if there are always places for the latter, then if it is necessary to transport cars, you need to plan everything in advance and not put off buying a ticket until the last minute. The schedule depends on the season, you can view it on the Internet.

The best attractions in Kefalonia

One of the most famous attractions is considered Fortress of St. George, the first mention of which occurs in the 12th century.

The architectural structure was made in the shape of a polygon; it served as a refuge from invaders. Currently, all that remains are ruins, which tourists from all over the world come to see.

Fans of antiquity will be interested Venetian castle in the village of Assos, it hides the spirit of medieval wars and battles at the end of the 18th century. Here there were battles between the French and Russians.

You can feel peace and harmony in the island’s holy places; monasteries and churches display unique icons, altars and attributes for rituals.

In the capital Argostilione a must visit Historical and Archaeological Museums To fully explore the sights, it is recommended to rent a car.

The one formed as a result of the earthquake deserves special attention. Drogarati cave, it is located at a depth of sixty meters and excites the imagination of viewers with its unusual topography and excellent acoustics; sometimes concerts are held here.
In the medieval capital of Castro is located Venetian fortress b, which offers panoramic views of the surrounding area.

Read also: Natural and architectural attractions of the island of Kefalonia

Beaches of Kefalonia

Kefalonia has a large number of beaches with a unique atmosphere; it is quite difficult to give preference to just one. The following places are the most popular among tourists:

• Ammes located in the small village of Svoronata, the place is quite calm, the advantages include a sandy surface and a short distance from the airport.

• Antisamos
  located in a bay near the town of Sami, it is considered one of the most beautiful in Greece.

  Its popularity is explained by the picturesque landscapes, the mountain slopes approach the water body almost closely, the beach is ideal for have a relaxing holiday, This unique place makes it possible to completely merge with nature and find harmony.

• Makris Gialos known for the most developed infrastructure.
  There are a large number of restaurants, snack bars and cafes here; here you can rent sunbeds, umbrellas and other attributes beach holiday. Every year the beach receives the international quality mark Blue Flag.

• Platys Gialos
  It is also distinguished by its amenities and has a Blue Flag; it is often compared to the Riviera. located near Lixouri, its distinctive feature is sand of a unique yellow-red hue, reminiscent of Burgundy wine.

  Many vacationers smear themselves with local clay, which has healing properties. Due to the gentle slope to the water, the place is very popular among tourists with children; on the beach there are a large number of apartments, hotels, and cafes.

• Rock is one of the longest and widest beaches on the island; its unique location within the city provides quick access to all the achievements of civilization.

Kefalonia Island Hotels



Catalonia has been popular among tourists since ancient times; air and sea routes provide year-round communication between the mainland and island parts.

The island has many beaches, restaurants, hotels and a variety of attractions, this great place for family and youth recreation. Many tourists come to the island because of its environmental friendliness; some beaches are marked with the Blue Flag.

15 best places in Kefalonia that are not in guidebooks

The island of Kefalonia is one of the most beautiful in Greece. Svetlana shared her impressions of her journey through it and talked about the places that she liked most. And we have designed this into an ideal vacation program that allows you to relax and see all the interesting things.

Greece. Unique country, where the history of the ancient world is densely mixed with culinary traditions and winemaking, ancient ruins coexist perfectly with the Athenian Acropolis that has survived to this day.

It's no secret that in, like in any other touristically developed country, there are popular places that are on everyone's lips. Usually, the Greek titans of package holidays loom on the surface of the Russian-speaking traveler: Crete and the island of Thassos, the resorts of the Halkidiki peninsula and the monasteries of Meteora, the islands of Corfu, Rhodes and Santorini. Along with them, in Greece there are a huge number of not very popular, sometimes completely unknown to the general public, but no less amazing and beautiful places for relaxation. Since we are independent travelers, in most cases we don’t like overstaying tourist locations. That is why this time our choice fell on the Greek island of Kefalonia/Cephalonia, which is not particularly well-known in wide tourist circles.

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It is the largest of the Ionian islands in southwestern Greece and, as popular rumor goes, the greenest. We went to explore Kefalonia in the second half of September 2017.

Transport logistics

The island of Kefalonia can be reached in two ways - by air and by sea. There is an airport on the island, but there are no direct flights from Ukraine. Alternatively, you can fly to Kefalonia with a connection in Athens. But the most interesting option in terms of price and flight schedule for the dates we were looking for was offered by UIA, whose services we used. The logistics turned out to be as follows: a direct flight from Kyiv to Athens; we had a car booked in advance at the Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venizelos. We then transited along the upper tip of the Peloponnese peninsula on our way to the port of Kyllini, where ferry services to the Ionian islands of Zakynthos and Kefalonia start.

On the island of Kefalonia, apartments were also pre-booked for 10 nights in the village of Mousáta, 15 km from the capital of the island, Argostoli. In many Russian-language reports that I came across before the trip, tourists mainly admired the northern tip of the island or the western coast of Kefalonia. I liked the coastline in the southwest and southeast of the island more, although at that time I could only judge by photos on Google maps. Therefore, they chose housing closer to the desired beaches. During the 10 days we spent on the island, we managed to travel and see quite a lot. I won’t talk about those places that are widely circulated on the Internet. I will only focus on what really impressed us.

One of the closest to our “base” in Musata and, indeed, one of best beaches Kefalonia - Koroni Beach. It is located in the southwest of the island at the foot of a high mountain. This is a long unequipped beach, that is, you need to understand that it is conditionally wild, where you need to take a towel and sun umbrella with you. As a bonus, there are a minimum number of people on the beach. We came here several times at different times of the day, and invariably there were very few people there. In my humble opinion, Koroni Beach is ideal for romantic getaway and search for inspiration: fine golden sand, smooth entry into the water, emerald waters of the Ionian Sea and a stunning panorama before your eyes.

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A little further up the mountainside above Koroni Beach we discovered another stunning place, Sesto Koroni Hill Bar - a wine bar with panoramic views. Amazing place, atmospheric. It would seem that everything is so simply done, sometimes from the simplest materials at hand, but the essence is in the sincere atmosphere and cordiality of the owners of the establishment (an English couple). Sesto Koroni is equally pleasant to be in during the day and in the evening, especially at sunset. The opening panorama is mesmerizing! Nothing superfluous, just the turquoise waters of the Ionian Sea and the neighboring island of Zakynthos stretching out in a light haze.

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Nearby you can also stop by for a tasting at the Melissinos Winery (one of the best wineries on the island), and we move further along the coast to the south of Kefalonia.

Next stop Cape Mounda is the most southern cape islands. Unusual coastal landscape: the sandy beach smoothly turns into a powerful stone slab, which goes far into the sea, and closer to the tip of the cape, rocks with bizarre weathering forms and hidden grottoes hang over the shore. From a high hill above Cape Mounda you can go down to a long, seemingly endless, deserted beach. Beautiful landscape... and space, space! And the same stunning wind that only happens on extreme points land.

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We get into the car again and drive further, moving to the southeast of the island. First we pass the busy village of Skala, and literally a few kilometers later we park the car near the next object of our interest, a bay with the poetic name Kato Lagadi. There are no landmarks or signs along the route, only a small spot along the road where the cars of those in the know are left... That’s right: the bulk of tourists are brought to the bay on yachts and boats by sea, so there are no signs along the road. But there is still a land passage to the bay. The trail and the descent to the sea are moderately extreme, but if you have at least minimal physical fitness and hiking experience, there will be no problems.

Kato Lagadi Bay is an amazing coastal landscape, a series of grottoes and tiny coves with small pebbles and a smooth entry into the water. Great place for snorkeling! It’s better to come in the morning, when the sun’s rays brightly illuminate everything around and the grotto-caves can be seen in all their glory. After lunch, the sun goes behind Mount Enos and the grottoes hide in the shadows. However, photographs speak louder than words:

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Our next point of interest is famous beach Antisamos, one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece according to TripAdvisor. A quick note: we don't like public beaches by default. According to our version, an ideal beach is when there are minimal or no people on it, and there is also a minimum of tourist infrastructure. To be alone with nature is our main desire on vacation. In the case of Antisamos beach, this is a rare exception when we betrayed our principles. The beach is truly stunningly beautiful. First of all, the view! The view of the bay, deep and elongated like a fjord, and the neighboring island of Ithaca is indescribable. Legends and myths ancient Greece, Homer's Iliad and Odyssey come to life before your eyes... and it's truly breathtaking just to see it with your own eyes! By the way, as local Greeks say, in the strait between Kefalonia and Ithaca, underwater there is an ancient city from the time of Odysseus. All that remains is to take their word for it. In general, on the island, quite a lot of reminders of Mycenaean culture (the period in the history of Greece from the 16th to the 11th centuries BC) and later periods have been preserved to this day, in particular the open-air museum Acropolis of Ancient Same (located high on the mountain above Antisamos beach, free entry).

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Antisamos beach is also unique in that it is usually completely calm. This is due to the fact that the bay in which the beach is located is “covered” from the sea by the mainland and the island of Ithaca, and from the land side it is reliably protected by an amphitheater high mountains. And indeed, it has been verified experimentally that even when a serious storm broke out one day, the sea in Antisamos Bay was calm and comfortable for swimming. To be fair, it is worth noting that despite all the aesthetic beauty, the beach also has its drawbacks: there are quite large pebbles underfoot, and the depth starts literally from the shore, so this beach is not very suitable for families with small children. But if you are an esthete and your rich inner world is in dire need of new doses of earthly beauty, then Antisamos beach is at your service.

However, alone natural beauties You won’t be full, so we’re going in search of Greek delicacies. Each country has its own signature dish or product - specialty. This is part of the gastronomic history and culture of a particular country, where they respect culinary traditions. In Greece, one of the most famous specialties is, of course, Greek yogurt. It is difficult to live without it in Hellas.

Our guesthouse neighbors, Italians, warmly recommended a place in Kefalonia where you should definitely have a Greek-style breakfast. What can I tell you, Italians know a lot about gourmet food! This is a real oasis... a very small open area, but placing and submitting an order, relaxed communication with the young and cheerful owner of the establishment - this is exactly that rare case when the memory of something is etched in the memory for a long time and over time is mentally savored with slight nostalgia.

Breakfast in the tiny and inconspicuous Myrtillo is worthy of a separate story. This is not only a positive charge and a full stomach, but also a real taste pleasure. We only stopped at Myrtillo for breakfast once on the way to Myrtos beach (the Myrtillo cafe-shop is located on the main road west coast, between two viewing platforms on Myrtos Beach), but I really remember this place. Here you can buy local homemade and other only nature Greek specialties (honey, jam, jam, nuts) as souvenirs, and there is also a small open area with tables where you can eat.

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A proper Greek breakfast, like everything ingenious, is extremely simple. Greek yogurt, honey, tahini (sesame paste), nuts. You can also add seasonal fruits or homemade jam. It’s not for nothing that, according to statistics, greek islands most of all long-livers, because with delicious natural food you can afford to live healthily for many years.

If you come to Myrtillo ideally for breakfast, then for dinner it is advisable to climb higher into the mountains. For example, you can taste excellent young lamb not far from resort town Sami. Our destination is the mountain village of Poulata. The owner of the house where we rented an apartment told us about this place. In fact, this is an ordinary village in the mountains, which is notable only for the fact that the local specialty is excellently prepared here - young lamb meat. You can also try lamb, goat and other mixed grilled meats. But it is the rack of lamb on the coals that is the masterpiece of local Greek cuisine.

In the village of Poulata there is a popular tourist establishment “Rambolis Grill Lamb Reataurant”, where tourists are brought by buses after an excursion in the Melissani cave (this is “ business card» Kefalonia, which is located in the vicinity of the city of Sami). And very close to this restaurant there is a small family tavern, the name of which cannot be reproduced in Greek (look at the photo). You need to arrive in the evening, around 8 o'clock is ideal. Because at 7 o’clock in the evening the workers are just getting ready to receive guests, and at 9 there may no longer be any free places left. They work until late as long as there are visitors. It’s very tasty, the portions are impressive, the prices are reasonable, and the attitude towards guests is good-natured. The owners of the establishment welcome guests like a family, and the food and service are beyond praise!

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By the way, the basic principle for choosing catering places in Greece (however, this applies to many European countries). Many domestic tourists have stereotypical thinking about what a catering establishment (restaurant, cafe, pastry shop or coffee shop) should look like. How is it usually with us? That's right: a cafe-restaurant will be cool and tasty if it looks at least decent: a beautiful interior, fabric tablecloths and napkins, expensive dishes, etc. This is a delicious restaurant. Tasty and expensive, there’s no other way. As you understand, the rules of “appearance” of taverns, familiar to compatriots, do not apply in Greece at all. In Greece, taverns focus primarily on the quality and taste of food. That is, if the food is tasteless, then you can do nothing further - there are no people in this tavern, and there never will be. Then the second most important thing is the view from the tavern, and only after that, almost lastly, is it about the design, beautiful dishes, napkins, etc.

Ask me which tavern in Greece was most memorable and sank into your soul? The answer is simple: this is a tavern somewhere in the mountain wilderness or inconspicuous back streets of the old city, in a completely ordinary room, with the same ordinary ordinary people who cook and serve food. After all, it is the delicious food and friendly atmosphere that is remembered, not the well-trained waiters and original design. Although this also has the right to be, but definitely not in Greece.

It would be worth starting with the fact that in Greece you always need to pay attention to the sign of the establishment. It is extremely rare that in front of a tavern on English it was written “taverna”, most likely they would write “restaurant” in English. But a restaurant is just that: a restaurant with all the attributes: waiters, white tablecloths, etc. Authentic restaurants in Greece are a rare phenomenon that you can only find in major cities, for example, in Athens or Thessaloniki, or at hotels. Their cuisine is also usually European. Therefore, the “restaurant” sign is a conscious substitution of concepts for foreign tourists. If you want to try authentic Greek cuisine, you need a tavern with its understated simplicity and "family" feel.

When your stomach is full, you usually want more spectacles. Or if you suddenly get bored from a measured rest, and there is a desire to dilute the languor of life, you can go to the north of the island, to small town Fiskardo. There is a large marina for yachts, around which everything is touristic for the discerning public. In short - pretentious, expensive, cocktail bars, taverns and restaurants. Everything your heart desires, for every taste and budget. In Fiskardo, in addition to the ancient architecture, I remember the impudent and not at all prim young Englishmen, blond Scandinavians, cheerful and loud Italians, drunk and noisy Czechs... the marina in Fiskardo is large, the audience is motley and colorful. You won't get bored, that's for sure! But for a relaxing holiday, it is better to choose accommodation in the immediate vicinity; you should not base yourself in Fiskardo itself.

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Meanwhile, we go around the northern part of Kefalonia and smoothly move to the western coast of the island, closer to the inaccessible rocky bays and the piercing blue Ionian Sea, well known from publications in glossy magazines. The first thing your eye catches from the height of the main route is a long cape protruding into the sea. The view is incredible, so it’s impossible to just drive past! This is Assos - perhaps one of the most beautiful and spectacular places in Kefalonia.

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Assos - small cozy town, located on the isthmus between the mainland and the peninsula topped by a Venetian fortress. The town itself is miniature and very touristy, which is not surprising in view of its special external attractiveness, and in terms of the number of idly wandering tourists it can easily compete with the pretentious Fiscardo. Assos looks equally great from afar and up close! Houses with brightly colored facades stretch up the slope of a small sheltered bay. On the narrow cobblestone streets, large tubs and tall clay pots with decorative and wildly flowering plants are everywhere, which I especially like in the south. In the marina, fishing boats and small yachts sway rhythmically, taverns with tables along the water, alluring smells of cooking food spread, and then spicy aromas excite the receptors. The colorful reality is pleasing to the eye, and the emotions are overwhelming inside... a real Mediterranean idyll.

If you are not too lazy and follow a wide winding path paved with marble, climb to the top of the peninsula to Venetian fortress(Castle of Assos of the 15th century), then you will be rewarded for your work and perseverance - the views are grandiose!

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We move further along the western coast of Kefalonia. In this part of the island the main road is laid at a decent height. At a decent height along steep cliffs! I don’t know how anyone perceives reality, but I am always impressed when a Man masters the mountains, “taming” them to his needs. Just imagine: along the western coast of Kefalonia, the road is in some places carved out of huge stone blocks, which causes genuine surprise and, of course, respect for the people who built it. And now ride along the ideal mountain roads– sheer pleasure, despite the endless twists and turns. After all, behind each of them a new, unique view opens up, and you want to make stops as often as possible to capture this beauty as a memory. But, alas, there are very few suitable places for this. The track has two lanes, fences on both sides, closed blind turns...

Following the settlement of Assos is the famous Greek beach of Myrtos and one of the few equipped areas along the route where you can stop. This observation deck Myrthos Beach Viewpoint. There are not enough words to express the fullness of feelings and emotions when you see piercing blue in real life!

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Myrtos Beach, along with the Melissani Cave, is the calling card of Kefalonia. We did not go down to the beach itself; according to reviews, it is not very convenient for swimming. It is usually very stormy here and strong winds often blow, due to the fact that the beach “looks” into the open sea. There are large pebbles on the shore, and the depth begins immediately from the shore. But from the outside, especially from a bird’s eye view, this is a dream beach.

Further along the western coast of Kefalonia, between Myrtos beach and the village of Zola, there are several more moderately beautiful beaches and lagoons, but we go further - to a “secret” bay. Lost in the mountains at the north-western tip of the Paiki Peninsula, Atheras Bay is striking in its beauty at first sight. In a carefully closed bay, with a cape protruding far into the sea, everything is perfectly suited for swimming and relaxing - moderately secluded, there are small pebbles on the shore, a clean bottom and a calm sea. And the view is amazing, this is very important!

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I cannot ignore the capital of Kefalonia - Argostoli. This is the main one transport hub islands, most of the hotels and large supermarkets are concentrated around the capital, and the promenade along the coastal part of the city will bring a lot of pleasure. The city center is interesting and beautiful embankment, lined with colorful pebbles framed by date palms. And it doesn’t matter whether it’s morning, afternoon or evening – there is something to do in the capital at any time of the day.

The city of Argostoli spreads widely in the shape of an amphitheater along the shore of a large lagoon. There is an airport close to the capital and for fans of spotting this is a place of power. In addition to a large selection of beaches, there are several noteworthy places in the vicinity of Argostoli. For example, a viewpoint on the edge of the cape, the active lighthouse of St. Theodora (Agion Theodoron), better known as the Fanari lighthouse, and next to it is the Katavothres Sea Mill water mill. Actually, tourists usually fly through this section (between Argostoli and the lighthouse) in cars without stopping. But in vain! From Argostoli, a path stretches along the sea through a natural park, where along the way there are small coves suitable for swimming, pine trees, cypress trees and juniper trees, thanks to which you can breathe in the heady Mediterranean pine air. I can’t even believe that there are such quiet, relatively deserted places very close to the noisy capital of the island.

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The mill, located near the lighthouse, is very unusual place. It is not so much the engineering structure that is interesting, but Katavotres, a unique geological phenomenon of the island of Kefalonia. Usually on an island the river flows into the sea, but on the island of Kefalonia the opposite happens. Streams sea ​​water fall into underwater karst crevices near the village of Katavothres (on the outskirts of Argostoli), then they pass under the island from west to east and appear on the surface in the village of Karavomilos (near the town of Sami), where they then flow into the cave lake Melissani.

In 1963, geologists from an Austrian university dropped 160 kg of paint in the area of ​​the underground tunnels of the village of Katavotres, and 15 days later traces of this paint appeared in the water on the eastern side of the island. The Englishman Stevens was the first observer to describe this unusual phenomenon. He decided to use the energy of the water that was lost in the “catavotra” (in the crevice) and built there water mill, which we can still see today.

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What else is noteworthy in Argostoli? Every day in the morning and evening on the embankment you can take part in a free “attraction” - feeding sea turtles. One day we specially arrived early in the morning at the Argostoli embankment to see the Caretta-caretta turtles up close. It happens like this: at 9 am, fishermen with their morning catch moor at the pier on the embankment, where the first buyers of fresh fish are already waiting for them. A spontaneous mini-fish market is formed. The fish for the buyers are immediately cut up and the offal is thrown into the water right there. Turtles come to them to feast on them. If you see crowds of people on the embankment, that means turtles are there.

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And, concluding the topic of Argostoli, I would like to note that it is in the capital that active tourist life is in full swing. Here is the brightest evening promenade and, in principle, only in this place was noticed nightlife. In addition, Argostoli has a huge selection of establishments: taverns, restaurants, nightclubs, cocktail bars, pizzerias. And, of course, the Greek version of fast food “giradiko” and “souvladzidiko” is widely represented (the first is called after the dish “gyros”, and the second takes its name from “souvlaki” - these are small kebabs). In terms of cuisine, Argostoli has everything your heart desires, for every taste. We dined here several times in various establishments, but most of all I remember family restaurant Greek cuisine Casa Grec, lost in the narrow streets of the old city.

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From Argostoli you can conveniently and fairly quickly move to the Paliki Peninsula. You can get there by land, but it’s much more comfortable to get there by water. The Argostoli-Lixouri ferry, which departs every half hour from the port of one capital of the island to another and back (Lixouri is the capital of the Paliki Peninsula), takes on board both passengers and cars.

The gathering point for vacationers on the Paiki Peninsula is the popular “red” Xi Beach. We deliberately skip it and head a little further, our goal is neighboring Koutala Beach. Most of the beaches on the coast of the Paiki Peninsula are known for their characteristic and expressive combination: a thin strip of bright red sand on the shore and high clay cliffs (this clay is said to have a cosmetic effect and can be smeared with it like in a spa - I can only take their word for it, we haven't tried). It looks very beautiful in sunny weather!

The sea is shallow and calm. Quiet, secluded, practically no people. In my opinion, also great place for holidays with small children – shallow, warm sea, sand.

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Actually big island The Ionian archipelago - Kefalonia (modern Greek name Kefalonia) - has both real cities and resorts. Like its neighbors, Cephalonia suffered greatly during the Second World War. world war from the Germans and Italians, and the “transition” of the island from one occupier to another after the surrender of Italy in 1943 was marked by a massacre in which over 5 thousand Italian troops were killed by the invading German troops. These events are described by Louis de Bernieres in the novel “Captain Corelli Mandolin” (Louis de Bernieres, Captain’s Corelli Mandoline).

Until the end of the 1980s, the island was not developed by tourism - partly, apparently, because adapting Kefalonia to the market seemed to be a difficult undertaking. The 1953 earthquake literally razed all the towns and villages of the island, and the lost masterpieces of Venetian architecture were perhaps the only graceful touch enlivening the harsh mountainous landscape. The delay in tourism can be explained in a simpler way: they say that the Cephalinians have a very firmly established reputation as intractable, stubborn, proud people, who are also eccentric, if not foolish.

However, there is something to attract guests: the beaches of Kefalonia are no worse than their rivals on other islands of the archipelago, and the local (admittedly expensive) wine – dry white Robola – is also famous. Fortunately, the merciful heavens sent down the “Corelli factor” and the island has not yet become too crowded with visitors and too expensive, although there are trends. The island itself seems ready to absorb a huge number of people, and it won’t get crowded anyway, but the majestic nature speaks for itself: steep slopes and slopes reach their maximum expression in Mount Enos (1632 meters above sea level), declared a national park.

There is only one airport on the island, information about which is given in the article about. The bus service is not very convenient, but the schedule is maintained, and with transfers you can get to almost any point on the island. The main routes connect the main tourism centers with Argostoli - Sami, Fiskardo, Skala and Poros. The route connecting Sami with the resort of Ayia-Efimia, where many vacationers are drawn on tour packages, is also convenient.

Motorcyclists are advised to be extremely careful: the paths, especially those off the beaten path, can be very difficult, although the highways and highways along the main routes are now mostly paved. Please note that small engines often cannot cope with steep road inclines. The island is connected by ferry service to many island and mainland ports: from Fiskardo ferries go to Ithaca, from Sami to Ithaca, Astakos and, from Argostoli and Poros to the mainland, to Kyllini, and from the port of Pessada to. Almost every year, at the height of the season, a direct ferry service between Sami and one of the Italian ports, usually Brindisi, but this route is served by only one company.

Greek town of Sami and surroundings

Ships mostly land at the large and functional port of Sami, built and then rebuilt on the southern edge of the strait separating Cephalonia from Ithaca, roughly where ancient Sami once stood. In the Homeric era, the capital of the island was in Sami, and Cephalonia itself was part of the sea kingdom of Ithaca. Today, everything has changed in the power ladder, and on the contrary, it is considered a quiet backwater.

Ferries link the city with Patras, many more ferries go to Ithaca, and there is also a direct (though unpredictable) connection with, so Sami is clearly preparing for rapid growth in the near future. The long sandy beach surrounding the bay is quite good, and 2 kilometers behind ancient Sami on the beautiful pebble beach of Andisamis you can have a cool drink at the Mojito Beach Bar.

There are three large hotels in town: the friendly Athina Beach is the better of the two at the far end of the beach, essentially in Karavomylos, while the Pericles, with extensive grounds, two swimming pools and sports facilities, is more than 1 kilometer from the road to Argostolion. Best option middle class hotels - convenient Kastro on the waterfront. Close on his heels is Melissani behind the ferry dock. Camping Sami - Karavomilos Beach - has 300 shaded sites, a tavern, a shop, a bar and access to the beach. There is no doubt that it is much better than its competitors (there are two official sites on the island for those who like to spend the night in the fresh air).

There are few taverns outside the embankment: the best in the center are Mermaid and Faros, they serve decent meat and vegetarian dishes, including the famous meat pie (a local delicacy). It's much quieter at Dionysos, which offers fresh seafood at low prices and live music on weekends. Obviously, some pub must bear the name "Captain's Corelli" - it, together with Aqua Marina, makes up a couple of the most beloved evening bars, and you can have breakfast or treat yourself to ice cream at the "other captain" while at the club Asteria bouzouki is a fun night out. Rent a motorcycle on the embankment, in “Sami Center”, and rent cars in a reliable local company “Island”.

• Drogarati and Melissani caves on the island of Kefalonia

Another reason to stay in Sami is the city’s proximity to the caves of Drogarati (5 kilometers towards Argostoli) and Melissani (3 kilometers to the north, direction towards Agia Efimia). Drogarati (April-October daily 9:00-20:00) has impressive stalagmites, and on occasion it serves concert hall: the acoustics are magnificent, Maria Callas herself sang in the cave. Melissani (daily 8:00-19:00) is partly flooded with saline waters, which, surprisingly, seep up from an underground fissure, and this crack runs through the entire island to a point near Argostoli.

There - a place called Katavotres - the sea constantly pours into underground tunnel, and before the earthquake of 1953 that destroyed everything, the current rotated water mills, but not river ones, but sea ones. Glowing paint in the cave marks the water level in the cave - current and previous, before 1953. The play of light leaking through the collapsed roof of the cave creates bizarre patterns and shadows, and there is always a rare fog in the air, like a haze, made up of water droplets.

• Fishing harbor of Agia Efimia on the island of Kefalonia

The friendly little fishing harbor of Ayia-Efimia, 9 kilometers north of Sami, although it has been chosen by tour operators who bring vacationers here on tour packages, there are no large construction projects or other “development” here. There are two significant flaws. The first is the beaches, or rather, the lack thereof: the largest, called, in no way mockingly, “paradise”, Paradise (Greek name paradisos), is a measly 20 meters of small pebbles, although there are other coves to the south. Second - bad transport links(only 2 bus services daily, to Sami and Fiskardo). But accommodation is very good, there are two nice hotels - Boulevard Pyllaros, but prices are lower in Moustakis, and Yerasimos Raftopoulos offers apartments.

Paradise Beach Tavern, further along the headland past the harbor, offers island cuisine at reasonable prices. Pergola and To Steki Tou Kalofaga also prepare dishes typical of the island, as well as those that are common throughout the country. As you would expect, the cafe-bar, where filmmakers and actors whiled away their time during the filming of the film, was renamed Captain’s Corelli; it’s better to have breakfast at Strawberry. Nightclub Paranoia - 700 meters from the village, in the direction of Fiskardo. And if you are traveling on your own, know that between Ayia Efimia and Sami in the Ayia Paraskevf tavern above the bay of the same name you will be treated to famous spaghetti with pickled mussels, and the places around are majestic.

South-eastern part of the island of Kefalonia

Traveling from Sami to the southeast became much easier when they finished building the asphalt highway to Poros and launched a bus on the Sami-Poros route (2 trips daily). Poros is connected to the resort of Skala in the south by another paved road along the coast.

Poros was once one of the first resorts of the island, and its modern look indicates that the place knew better days. There are few hotels and high-rise buildings with apartments for visitors in Kefalonia - something rare, even unique; a poor promenade and an unsightly pebble beach do not improve the impression. But from Poros there is a ferry to the Peloponnesian port of Kyllini, which is worth keeping in mind in case the Sami-Patra route is not suitable.

Actually, the resort is built around two bays: the first, where there are more tourists, and the current harbor a few minutes' walk behind the cape. There are many rooms and apartments for rent, and there are also hotels. It is best to stay at the cozy Santa Irina hotel at the crossroads away from the sea, and the neighboring Odysseus Palace often offers good discounts. Among the travel agencies, Poros Travel at the ferry dock also helps with accommodation, and not only sells ferry tickets and rents cars.

Bars and restaurants are mostly concentrated along the main promenade. The Fotis Family Tavern has good food and a pleasant environment, and the Mythos Bar has internet access. The mentioned road, leaving Poros, makes an arc of 12 kilometers along the coast and comes to Skala at the southern tip of the island. The route is pleasant and there are almost no buildings along the way, not counting the church 3 kilometers before the Rock near the ruins of a Roman temple.

As if in contrast to Poros, the resort of Skala consists of low buildings among large pine trees that literally hang over a good sandy beach. In the 1950s, near the rental rooms called Golden Beach Palace, a Roman villa was excavated (daily 10:00-14:00 and 17:00-20:00, longer in summer; free) and some mosaics. Many adherents of Skala do not leave the resort even when Poros closes until the next season, so it is difficult to find an overnight stay almost all year round. The owners of the Dionysus Rooms also offer studios and apartments, Dionysus Rooms, a block south of the main street, and Etam Travel Service also helps with accommodation.

Among the hotels, the small cozy Captain’s Hotel on a street shifted to the east, parallel to the main one, is convenient and friendly, and the more expensive Tara Beach hotel offers rooms and separate bungalows in a lush garden on the edge of the beach. There are many taverns in Skala: The Old Village and Flamingo offer the usual range of Greek and European dishes in a pleasant atmosphere, the coastal Paspalis serves fish and home cooking, Sunrise not only greek cuisine, but they also make pizza. It's a good idea to have a drink at the Veto cocktail bar or at the seaside restaurant-bar Stavento, accompanied by the most fashionable music.

• From Skala to Ludrata

Some of the best sandy beaches The islands are located next to Skala, below the village of Radzakli and around the growing resort of Kato Katelios, where there are already hotels: the intricate Odyssia and the almost completely German-occupied Galini Resort, which also offers good apartments for four. Rooms and apartments can be found at your local CBR Travel office. Of the half a dozen local restaurants and cafes on the embankment, the Blue Sea Tavern is praised for its freshness and good quality fish, and they go to drink primarily at the Cozy bar. The coast around Kato Katelios is the main breeding ground for loggerheads in Kefalonia. Therefore, resting and spending the night in the open air are prohibited here.

The village of Markopoulo in the island's hinterland is sometimes claimed to be the birthplace of the multilingual explorer Marco Polo, but today it is better known as the site of the outlandish "snake rite" performed annually on the Assumption of Our Lady, August 15th. The church in which the ritual is performed stands on the site of an ancient monastery. According to legend, the monastery was once attacked by pirates, and the nuns began to pray to be turned into snakes, just so as not to be captured. It is believed that their prayers were answered, and the annual “return” of many small and harmless snakes is perceived by the villagers as a good omen, promising good luck.

And since it is unlikely that nature is ready to observe with such precision a schedule not invented by it, a suspicion arises: are the (individual, of course) village holy fathers keeping an inconspicuous snake nursery? It is impossible to approach the shore until the village of Vahata, where rooms are rented out and restaurants operate, but there is little point in staying here, and turning downhill, after 2 kilometers you will find yourself at the Lourdata resort: on a 1 kilometer long beach, small pebbles are mixed with imported sand. Adonis and Ramona offer rooms on the outskirts, on the access road, and the new Thomatos Apartments behind the beach also have studios with kitchens.

Vegetarian dishes are prepared at the Diamond Tavern under a plane tree in the tiny village square. Further, on the hill is Dionysus, where they serve food as you would expect in an ordinary tavern. On the beach itself, Patritsia is good if you want to eat good, inexpensive fish, and Lorraine's Magic Hill offers quality food. Cafe Platanos is located outside the village. To get to another good beach, Trapezaki, you need to turn off at Mussata, which is west of Vahata; This is a very pleasant spit, with the only restaurant near a small pier.

West Bank and road to the north of Kefalonia

The road from Argostoli to Fiskardo is the most picturesque in the archipelago. After leaving the city, the road climbs the Eumorphia spurs, where you can turn inland to visit the modern Museum natural history(daily 9:00-13:00, and on Monday-Saturday another 18:00-20:00; 1.50 €) in Davgata. After passing Agonas, the road continues to climb up the mountain, clinging to almost sheer cliffs, until it comes to the village of Divarata, where some rooms are rented, for example, in the Mina studios there are a couple of restaurants, and this is the starting point of the path to Myrtos beach. This path leads downhill - 4 kilometers along a road suitable for a car or motorcycle.

On the beach itself there is only a snack bar, but above and below this establishment there is a shore that makes an incredibly strong impression - there is no landscape that would touch all the senses even more strongly in the entire archipelago: the brilliant strip is amazing white sand with pebbles. Only there is little shade, and at the height of the season there are a lot of people. After 6 kilometers there will be a turn to Asos; this original village clings to a small isthmus between the island and a huge hill, on top of which there are the ruins of an ancient fortification.

Accommodation is in short supply, so it's best to book in advance at the friendly Cosi's Inn, the chic Kanakis Apartments, or the more standard rooms at Andreas Rokos on the driveway, all three on the driveway. In addition to the small pebble beach, Asos has three taverns, two of them - Nefeli and Platanos Grill - under plane trees in a square surrounded by mostly restored mansions, so there are no signs of the earthquake. It’s a bit cramped there, but you won’t find anything like it in the entire Ionian archipelago.

Located at the northernmost tip of the island, the town of Fiskardo is built on a limestone bed that protects the city from strong tremors. The bay is guarded by two lighthouses, Venetian and Victorian, and those ruins that are noticeable on the cape are said to remain from the 12th century church, which the Norman conqueror Robert Guiscard began to build, and the current name of the town reminds us of Gixar. The harbor embankment remains the same as it was in the 19th century, only now it is surrounded by luxurious restaurants and chic boutiques.

It is also home to the new Museum of Nature and Navigation (summer Monday-Friday 10:00-18:00, Sunday 10:00-14:00; donations), housed in a renovated neoclassical mansion built on a hill behind the village. The volunteers who care for the museum study, not without valuable results, environment and can also arrange scuba diving. There are two good pebble beaches nearby: Emblisi, about 1 kilometer on the way back from the city, and Fokis, about the same distance, but to the south, along the path to the northern cape. Daily ferries connect Fiskardo with Lefkada all year round, and with Ithaca only in season.

As the main resort of the island, Fiskardo is busy until the end of October, so that accommodation is practically unaffordable. The cheapest rooms are in the hospitable Regina’s with its own cafe behind the building, near the car park, as well as in the Sotiria Tselenti agency. At the bakery, 50 meters behind a tiny square. An excellent, if ruinous, option is the beautifully converted Archontiko mansion behind and above the harbor convenience store. A little further from the ferry pier, on the embankment, there is the Pama Travel office, where they can also help you find a room or (more expensive) apartment.

There are a lot of restaurants, many good ones, but almost all are expensive. On the embankment, the rich seafood at Tassia is recommended (just watch your order - otherwise they will bring the wrong fish and not as much as you wanted) and Captain’s Table: hearty Greek and Cephalonian cuisine. Near the cape behind "Pama Travel" in Panormos there is much more low prices, and it's superbly located, with Lagonderia around the corner serving delicious oven-fired food and now having premises on the seafront too. Some of the most successful harbor bars include Irida's and the Yacht Inn. In the Kastro club on the outskirts of the village, among other things, they dance.

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