Traveling by car to the Caucasus. Travel to the North Caucasus: the beauty of Kabardino-Balkaria and the hot horseman of Dagestan in one bottle. Why go to the North Caucasus

One day is similar to another, everyday routine and life. You walk in a routine circle, drowning in monotony. But your friends don’t let you get bogged down in gray everyday life. They tell you how many interesting and beautiful, unprecedented and amazing things there are around. This is so inspiring. This simply cannot help but inspire! Moreover, somewhere in the far corner of your consciousness you store and remember these places, because you lived there, were there, but did not have time to know practically anything.
That's it, thanks to my close friends from Nalchik (Kabardino-Balkaria), where I once lived, we went on a fascinating travel to North Caucasus .

Through the intricacies of fate in the distant 90s, my family ended up in this beautiful republic. Here, one might say, my golden school years, youth, carelessness passed and true friends appeared. The friendship that we have carried through the years and time, and which we still cherish. Everyone already has families, children, worries, work, other cities, but our heart will always remember those times and love that city where you wrote many important pages in the book of life.
And what kind of wind blew us into Dagestan, you ask? Oh, there was a miraculous coincidence here too. I really wanted to go to the sea; the closest one from Nalchik seemed to be the Caspian Sea. And then my close friends from Moscow go to their friends in Makhachkala, and my friend’s friend and I go to the friends of my friends. Complete brain explosion
But this, in general, is not important, because this is the Caucasus - the most hospitable land on earth, about which legends are made. Guests are always welcome here, and even more so friends. Therefore, we immediately set off on the road to the North Caucasus.

“Oh, roads... Dust and fog...”

We covered the road to Rostov relatively easily. We had an overnight stay in Bataysk with our friends, and the navigator decided to “show” us the city. At the entrance to Rostov we were met by a huge traffic jam for many hours. I assume that most were traveling towards the sea.
But the next day the traffic jam at the exit from Bataysk turned out to be even more impressive, and the state of hopelessness was greatly aggravated by the wild heat.
People moved into ravines, roadsides, fields, anywhere, trying to get out of this “captivity.” Several tens of kilometers of road repairs turned this section of the route into a real transport collapse.
On this trip, we were incredibly lucky to have people who became kind of guides for us in difficult situations. This time our savior turned out to be a Rostov taxi driver, who, for a fee, took us out of the traffic jam using roundabout routes and saved at least 3 hours of precious time.

Then things got more fun. Soon we were driving along the M29 Caucasus highway, which at times looked deadly. Repairs are also underway there in some places, but the flow of cars is much less, so we were happy to watch as the landscape began to change outside the window.
Left behind: Minvody, Pyatigorsk,

and hello, Kabardino-Balkaria!

Contemplate, enjoy, love!

I don’t know why, but I strongly associated the trip to the North Caucasus with the wonderful work “Eat, Pray, Love,” where the heroine goes to long journey to find yourself.
But I wanted to rephrase this call and make it a kind of motto for myself during our journey. And you know, I got it in full!

Contemplate

Contemplation for me is akin to suddenly slowing down in a running stream, forgetting about everything and enjoying the moment. To be here and now. This is an incredible feeling of lightness and flight, freedom and knowledge. You may not even immediately realize what has changed in you, but nothing happens for nothing, nothing passes without a trace. Inside, invisible strings play the melody of your soul, and you dissolve in the surrounding beauty and become part of a beautiful and amazing world.
I will definitely tell you in more detail about the places that made my heart flutter. And now I’ll just show you contemplative shots where time stopped for me.
Chegem waterfalls. The element of water, a stream under which you feel like a small grain of sand.

Bottomless Blue Lake.

A tunnel in the Cherek Gorge and an abyss with a raging mountain river.

Mountain village Upper Balkaria with ancient history and landscapes of unprecedented beauty.

Elbrus region.

“In the bustle of cities and in the flow of cars
We are returning - there is simply nowhere to go!
And we go down from the conquered peaks,
Leaving in the mountains, leaving your heart in the mountains.
So leave unnecessary disputes!
I've already proven everything to myself -
Better than the mountains there can only be mountains,
Which I haven’t been to before.”

V. Vysotsky

You really can’t imagine anything better...
Honestly, these are places for which it is not only worth, but necessary to go to Kabardino-Balkaria. The sensations you experience when you rise above the clouds, the expanses that open before your eyes, are the best things that can happen to you while traveling.

This was the most exciting adventure for us. We climbed to a height of 4,200 meters to snowy peaks Elbrus.

From above, the Main Caucasus Range shocked us with its harsh beauty.

The ride up Mount Cheget by chairlift was no less exciting.

Dagestan gave us unforgettable sunrises and sunsets.

And the relict Samur forest has become a treasure trove of discoveries and finds.

Enjoy

Oh, what I didn’t enjoy on this trip. And nature, and weather, and communication. But one of the most refined and enjoyable experiences was enjoying Caucasian food. Hand on heart, I can say that in none of our travels have we tried so many varied and incredibly delicious dishes.

Finally, I ate my fill of my favorite khychins, which I simply adore.

Mmm... the mere memory of all this deliciousness makes my mouth water.

A true pleasure of taste.

Love or long way home

In general, all good things come to an end, and so our journey was coming to an end. Kabardino-Balkaria remains a tender, green, trembling beauty in my heart.

And Dagestan is remembered for its dusty gray houses, scorched landscapes and absolute chaos on the road.

There are completely different rules here, according to which if you don’t play, you’ll be called a loser. And you will be doomed to the eternal contempt of real horsemen.
And this, unfortunately, is not a joke. It will be very difficult for people with a fine nervous organization to join the flow and feel comfortable in this chaos. I felt complete dissonance with Makhachkala; I did not catch or feel any consonance at all.

But Dagestan finally gave us a wonderful gift. We decided to return home a different way, bypassing Chechnya, Ingushetia and Ossetia. We drove through Kizlyar and the Stavropol Territory. I haven’t felt such pleasure from the road for a long time. The endless Nogai steppe and us.

I didn’t expect that the scorched steppe would make such an indelible impression on me. We were surprised, because... The desert landscapes that we saw while driving through half of Dagestan did not evoke any special emotions. And here... you can see the energy is completely different. I wanted to contemplate, enjoy and love at the same time!

Unfortunately, we still lost a lot of time in traffic jams due to road repairs and terminals. Heat, dust, fatigue, it seemed like it would never end.
Tula region greeted us with a simply breathtaking sunset. The horizon was on fire. And I rejoiced at the greenery, birch trees, ponds and fresh air.

And then the understanding came that I had come home.
You know, I periodically thought about what to call the Motherland. The place where you were born, where you got married, or where you live now. I was born in Kazakhstan, then our family moved to Kabardino-Balkaria. And already at a conscious age I came to live in Tula. And every time this question puzzled me.
Watching fields, forests, and village houses flash by outside the window, I acutely felt how much I love these places. I feel at home here, not as a guest. I returned to my homeland...

Traveling through the North Caucasus is the best thing that can happen to you. If your mind is free of myths and stereotypes, go for it! And we will help you do everything beautifully, clearly and safely. Read our guide.

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#OurCaucasus

As soon as I got my license and bought my first car in 2016, I went on a trip to the North Caucasus. My story is simple: I came, I saw, I fell in love. I fell in love with road trips, I fell in love with the Caucasus. And now every year (or more than once) I gather a team of friends and go on road expeditions to the most beautiful places in Russia.

In the fall of 2018, I organized another trip to the mountains under the slogan #OurCaucasus. We went to break stereotypes and open this corner of our country to the general public. In a month, we traveled through all the republics of the North Caucasus, visited the most beautiful places and proved that our southern regions are a safe and immensely interesting place to travel.

Want to make sure? Read our tips for traveling in the Caucasus!

Our travel team:

Renata Mukminova and Alexey Sinitsyn.
Azat Agleev

Why go to the North Caucasus

• Admire the fantastically beautiful landscapes.
• See the highest and majestic mountains Russia - neither the Urals nor Altai were even close.
• Enjoy the most beautiful mountain roads.
• Breathe clean air, live and walk in nature.
• Dispel a million myths and make sure that the kindest, most cultured and nice people in Russia live in the Caucasus.
• Good to save! This is not Georgia, not the Alps, and not New Zealand- the same beauties are given away almost for nothing.

Traveling around the Caucasus by car

To travel around the Caucasus you need a car. Ideal option- drive your own car. This is the only way you can see all the beauties, get to the most remote and secret places, you will be mobile and free to create any routes. Without a car, you won't see even half of it.

It is best to drive an SUV - there are many places in the mountains that can only be reached by a four-wheel drive vehicle in low gear. Don't have your own all-terrain vehicle? No problem - go on a trip in a regular car, and on the spot, if you wish, take excursions in jeeps to hard to reach places in the mountains. It won't be as interesting, but it's better than nothing.

Roads in the Caucasus mostly good, all main roads have perfect asphalt. There are many bad, broken dirt roads in Dagestan between small villages in the mountains, but there is always an alternative good road.

Petrol. The problem with low-quality gasoline exists only in Dagestan - there are no real gas stations of famous brands, but only endless “Likoils”, “Lukkoils”, “Rusneft” and other “mutants” that mimic them. Unfortunately, there is a real danger of pouring burnt fuel into the tank of your car, which will instantly damage your engine. I will tell you how to avoid problems and find quality gasoline in a separate report about Dagestan.

DPS. There are a lot of police and other security forces in the Caucasus. Get ready that at almost every checkpoint (and there are many of them here) they will check your documents and ask about your route. As for the rest: if you don’t violate it, they won’t stop you.

Our experience. We made both trips to the North Caucasus in a UAZ Patriot - I use it to travel throughout Russia. This is an ideal car for traveling in the mountains: super cross-country ability and huge capacity. There was only one place where I could not drive this car due to low hanging wires.

When to go

The mountains are beautiful and good at any time of the year, but still the best period for traveling in the Caucasus is mid-spring or autumn.

At the time of golden autumn I led both of our expeditions: the trees are glowing with golden and crimson colors, the sun is warming, bless you, and there are few tourists even in the most popular places like the Elbrus region or Dombay. In general, traveling in September-October has some advantages.

in spring nature will be completely different. If you want to see the green Caucasus, come in May.

In summer there will be a lot of tourists and it will be too hot, but you can safely spend the night in a tent.

Winter It’s warm in the mountains, but at this time all roads to hard-to-reach places will be covered with snow, trekking is impossible and there is a danger of avalanches.

Safety

The republics of the North Caucasus are, in my opinion, the safest regions of Russia. Unexpected, right? But my experience, the opinion of local residents and the ratings that I found on the Internet prove this fact.

Good news:

• The crime rate in the Caucasus is low; you can safely leave your car in the mountains and go hiking. It has been tested several times, and local residents confidently say the same.
• People in the mountains are responsive, attentive and hospitable. Especially in Dagestan: every highlander’s mutual aid is pumped up to level 80. Do you have a problem? Any passerby will do everything to solve it.
• In Chechnya, Ingushetia and Dagestan there are a lot of security forces and checkpoints on the roads. These people are not sitting around, but actually maintaining security, so in these republics you feel very calm. If you have questions, feel free to ask them to the military or police - they will help with advice.

But there is also bad news. Alas, security in the Caucasus is not all that good.

• The main problem is Wahhabis. Extremists hide in the forest and pose a threat, first of all, to locals. Of course, the likelihood of a meeting is low, so it is stupid to refuse a trip to the Caucasus because of the Wahhabis.
• Fools on the roads. There are reckless drivers in the Caucasus, but rumors about them are greatly exaggerated. Although they violate things here, they do it not for the sake of showing off, but for their own convenience. They violate mostly carefully and do not create danger on the road. Almost. Believe me, in comparison with the Kuban and Crimean people, Caucasians are ideal drivers.
• Wild animals. There are a lot of bears and wolves in the Caucasus and you can easily meet them. Locals During their lives they meet bears more than once; the beast sometimes even enters villages, but behaves well and does not get rowdy. We didn’t meet any predators, but we did find the freshest bear tracks in the mountains (we quickly disappeared from there, no need to hide it).

But the result is still positive! I can boldly say: in the Caucasus I feel calmer and safer than in Perm, St. Petersburg or Moscow.

What to see in the Caucasus

We looked at dozens of sights in the North Caucasus - there will be a large report-list with photos, coordinates and maps.

The most beautiful places in the Caucasus:

• Djily-Su tract (KBR),
• Dombay with its ski lifts and four picturesque gorges around it: Alibek, Amanauz, Gonachkhir and Dombay-Ulgen (KCR),
• Mount Toguzkelbashi (KCR),
• Sofia Sedlo (KCR),
• Zelenchuk temples (KCR),
• Bermamyt Plateau (KCR),
• Lago-Naki plateau (Adygea),
• City of the Dead Dargavs (North Ossetia),
• Tower complexes Egikhal, Targim and Vovnushki (Ingushetia),
• Mountain roads east of the lake Kezenoy-Am (Dagestan),
• Karadakh Gorge (Dagestan),
• Saltinsky underground waterfall (Dagestan),
• High mountain villages of Dagestan,
• Abandoned village Gamsutl (Dagestan),
• Derbent is the oldest city in Russia (Dagestan).

As you can see, the undisputed leaders in the beauty of landscapes are Dagestan and Karachay-Cherkessia.

If you are a fan of Lermontov’s work and a big fan of “A Hero of Our Time,” you will be curious to see a map of Pechorin and Lermontov’s routes in the Caucasus.

Where to live

On both of our expeditions we used the tent empty - only a couple of times we had to spend the night in the car, all other nights we spent in hotels. There are no problems with housing in the North Caucasus. Almost none. There is more than enough housing in the popular and frequented tourist destinations of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Kabardino-Balkaria and Adygea: any options for any money, everything is available. In Ossetia, Chechnya and Dagestan, housing is already more difficult, but in Ingushetia it’s just a pipe. But you can get out, I’ll give you advice for each republic:

KCR, KBR and Adygea: We reserve all accommodation on . Large selection of camp sites, guest houses, hotels, apartments.

North Ossetia: The easiest way is to stay on the outskirts of Vladikavkaz and make daily trips to the mountains.

Ingushetia: There are only 5-7 housing options for the entire republic and not a single decent one. We saw the entire republic in one day, and spent the night in Nazran (a so-so place).

Chechnya: I recommend staying at a motel on the highway rather than in Grozny - it’s cheaper and you don’t have to waste time moving around the city. From the motel you can drive to the mountains. Accommodation on Lake Kezenoy-Am is expensive: from 2,500 rubles for a double room.

Dagestan: in Derbent, Makhachkala and other cities on the shores of the Caspian Sea, the choice of housing is very large, in the mountains it is extremely scarce. To explore mountainous Dagestan, it is convenient to stay in Gunib and drive around the surrounding area. Didn't find housing or didn't have time to return to civilization in the evening? No problem! Any family in mountain villages will be happy to shelter and feed you. In Dagestan, the level of hospitality is simply off the charts.

I really don’t recommend renting apartments directly from private owners (for example, through Avito). They will either slip you a bug plant or they will rack your brain with all sorts of nonsense - don’t even try! Remember: Booking, motels or registration - this is the only way and no amateur activities.

Clothing and equipment

Haven’t been to the mountains or auto trips yet? No problem, I’ll teach you how to pack a suitcase in half an hour. Here I will give only the most important tips; for detailed lists, see the links:

Remember the main rule in the mountains: you can never have too much fleece! Decathlon can help you: take fleece pants and sweaters of different densities, windbreakers, a hat and cap, plenty of thermal socks, shorts and T-shirts.

Instead of heavy, uncomfortable and non-breathable trekking boots, it is better to take trail sneakers - these are the best shoes that humanity has invented. Trekking poles will come in very handy when hiking.

Your own kettle or boiler, a set of mugs, tea, coffee, porridge in bags and all sorts of cookies - this simple set will brighten up your trip, warm, invigorate and satiate you every morning and evening.

Nutrition

Before traveling to the North Caucasus, according to the old tradition, we bought half the supermarket: canned food, pates, biscuits, cereals, dried fruits, nuts, candy bars and other supplies. During any road trip, my trunk looks like a food cupboard in a nuclear war bunker. If in Altai food quickly jumped into our camp pot - just have time to replenish it, then in the Caucasus we ate mainly in cafes.

1. the food is delicious,
2. food is cheap
3. save time,
4. the diet will be varied,
5. Finding a cafe is not a problem.

On average, you can eat for 200-300 rubles per person; in Dombay and Terskol it is more expensive; these places are spoiled by tourists. In Vladikavkaz you can eat delicious kebab for 600 rubles per kg - just fantastic. In Dagestan, in any village, any housewife will feed you from the heart for free.

But still take a small set of products:

• canned food, cereals and water supply in case of emergency;
• nuts, muesli, chocolate, dried fruits for a snack on hikes or on a trip;
• porridge in bags for a quick breakfast at the hotel.

How much money do you need for the trip?

Few! Compared to the expenses required by a trip to Europe or even to resorts Krasnodar region, then traveling to the North Caucasus is inexpensive.

There were three of us on this expedition. We spent exactly a month in the Caucasus, plus the road from Perm (almost 3000 km) took 3-4 days one way.

Expenses per person per month:

• Housing - 17,300 rubles.
• Meals in a cafe - 9800 rub.
• Products - 6500 rub.
• Mobile communication - 300 rub.
• Missing medications in the first aid kit - 1000 rubles.
• Attractions and ski lifts - 2700 rub.

Car expenses (entire amount):

• Gasoline in the Caucasus - 15,000 rubles.
• Gasoline for the trip there and back - 25,000 rubles.
• Repair and maintenance of a car while traveling - 1100 rubles.

Of course there were also travel preparation expenses: car maintenance, buying clothes and equipment - but all these expenses relate not only to this trip, so we don’t count them, but we keep them in mind when planning the budget.

The most expensive thing on this trip is gasoline. But if your car’s consumption is not 13-20 liters per hundred and you don’t need to travel 6,000 kilometers there and back to the Caucasus, then your trip will be much cheaper.

Cultural program

There is a category of vacationers who come to the Caucasus (and anywhere) only for three things: booze, barbecue and a bathhouse. Mostly they go to Dombay, a little less to Arkhyz and the Elbrus region, and are almost never seen in other places. I hope your interests, like ours, are broader than this list. If so, then take note useful books, films and articles that will help you better understand the culture of the peoples of the North Caucasus.

1. "Hero of our time." M. Yu Lermontov.
2. "Prisoner of the Caucasus" L. N. Tolstoy.
3. "Hadji Murat" L. N. Tolstoy.
4. "Caucasus". A. Dumas (travel notes).
5. "Letters from Dagestan". A. A. Bestuzhev-Marlinsky.

See also the list of books in this post on LiveJournal and in the comments to it.

See the list of books about the Caucasian War on Arzamas.

What to listen to:

Arzamas prepared excellent material about the traditional music of the Caucasian peoples.

What to see:

• "Prisoner of the Caucasus" 1996, Sergei Bodrov (senior).
• "Ashik-Kerib" 1988, Sergei Parajanov (based on Lermontov's poem and an Azerbaijani fairy tale).

From documentaries, I can recommend Anton Lange's film "The Ridge. Kakaz from sea to sea." I won’t say that the film turned out excellent, but you won’t find anything better on YouTube about the Caucasus.

There is a place in the south of our country where you can enjoy the warm sun in winter and sunbathe in the summer. eternal ice. Here are the most high mountains Europe and the most fertile valleys of Russia. And this place is called the North Caucasus. In this article we will take you on a journey through the Northern Caucasus and visit 7 republics and 2 regions.

The territory of the Caucasus is rich in reserves of oil, gas, valuable wood species, reserves of industrial metal ores and uranium ores. The most delicious mineral water is produced here, and more than 70% of the territory is occupied by agricultural land.

The North Caucasus includes 7 republics and 2 territories:

1. Republic of Adygea

Republic of Adygea – real paradise for travelers:

• Routes through Lago-Naki,
• Rufabgo waterfalls,
• Through cave,
• Khodzhokh Gorge,
• river and gorge Meshoko,
• mount Monk,
• Sahrai waterfalls,
• Valley of the Ammonites,
• St. Michael's Monastery.

All these and many other attractions are very popular among tourists. In addition, on the territory of the republic there are many thermal and mineral springs.

2. Dagestan

Dagestan, more like an eastern state than Russia: Arab bazaars, women in headscarves, hospitable people.

Of interest to tourists are sandy coast Caspian Sea, excellent cognac, local wines, architectural buildings and amazing ancient city Derbent.

Unfortunately, in Dagestan these days they are not uncommon terrorist attacks, but, as a rule, they have nothing to do with tourists; rather, these are local showdowns.

3. Republic of Ingushetia

The youngest and smallest republic is Ingushetia. The territory is divided into two parts:

1. Gornaya, where the protected Dzheirakh region is located - the historical heart of the republic with its 9 inhabited and 10 abandoned ancient villages;
2. Plain, where tourists can only be attracted by the capital Magas and the ruins of the Russian fortress in Nazran.

Elbrus is an ancient dormant volcano, covered with glaciers and snow, a mountain sacred to many nations.

Travelers worship Elbrus, they come here to realize their most vivid extreme fantasies: kiteboarding, trekking, ice climbing, rock climbing, freeride, skiing - these and many others are attractive to the peak.

In addition, the republic is famous for its five largest gorges of unearthly beauty, as well as delicious narzan and ayran.

5. Karachay-Cherkessia

Karachay-Cherkessia, bordering Kabardino-Balkaria, Stavropol Territory, Georgia and Abkhazia.

The republic is famous for its beautiful ski resort Dombay, high mountain lakes, mountain waterfalls, rivers, natural resources, mineral and thermal springs.

On the territory of Karachay-Cherkessia there are also Teberdinsky and partly Caucasian reserves - protected natural areas rich in flora and fauna.

6. North Ossetia

North Ossetia-Alania attracts travelers with its stormy mountain rivers, rocky mountains, unique cuisine, peculiar traditions and a complex history of development.

The events taking place in Karmadon and Beslan brought sad celebrity to the republic, but now it is already calm here.

7. Chechen Republic

The Chechen Republic, where very hospitable people live and modern cities continue to be upset.

Of interest to tourists here is not only the capital of the republic, but also

• ski resort Veduchi,
• lake Kezenoyam,
• mosques,
• amazing nature.

The population of the republic is very proud of its president Ramzan Kadyrov; on the streets of the capital you can often see posters hanging on which people thank him for his actions.

8. Krasnodar region

Krasnodar region, first of all, vacationers associate it with summer, the sea and beach holiday. Resort towns They are famous for their gentle sun and clean air, but in winter you can also relax here. For example, have an active holiday in Krasnaya Polyana: freeride, rafting, caving, helicopter rides, jeeping.

In addition, tourists coming to the Krasnodar region should visit an ostrich farm and Krasnodar tea plantations, taste real Kuban wine, and ride horses.

And, of course, the city of Sochi is of great interest now, where after the games you can not only get acquainted with many new construction projects, but also plunge into the world of adventures of the fabulous “Sochi Park”.

Stavropol region. The city of Stavropol is called the Gates of the Caucasus. Near the city there is a huge archaeological monument of the Ciscaucasia - the Tatar settlement.

It’s amazing how this place has been preserved, surrounded by city buildings, country houses, fields and roads. Also in Stavropol there is a state-protected natural monument– Central.

About the Caucasian Mineral Waters, which are part of Stavropol Territory, it’s worth talking separately, because this territory is unique for its natural and healing resources.

And the beauty here is such that you can’t take your eyes off: beautiful valleys, vast meadows, picturesque waterfalls, clear rivers, a huge number of mineral springs. In addition, the air here is always clean, slightly tinged with resin and pine needles, and the climate is mild. At any time of the year you can have a great rest and improve your health here.

There are many sanatoriums and hotels of various classes located in Essentuki, Kislovodsk, Pyatigorsk and Zheleznovodsk.

In addition to treatment with mineral waters, here you can be treated with Tambukan mud, the natural formations of which help get rid of many diseases.

By combining balneotherapy (mineral water treatment), mud therapy, climatotherapy, physical rehabilitation and nutritional therapy, vacationers can significantly improve their health and recharge their batteries for years to come.

In addition, on the Caucasian Mineral Waters you can see such attractions as Honey Falls, the site of Mikhail Yuryevich Lermontov’s duel, Blue Lakes, Narzan Valley, and the famous Kislovodsk resort park.

The geopolitical position of all these territories is important, since the North Caucasus has access to the Azov, Caspian and Black Seas, as well as territorial connections with the Transcaucasian states.

The North Caucasus is the most densely populated region of our country.

The most hospitable people live here, ancient customs are revered and the culture of the peoples is carefully protected. Ask any resident of the Caucasus about the history of his people, and he will tell it with pride.

The ethnic composition of the inhabitants of the Caucasus is extremely diverse:

• Chechens,
• Dargins,
• Lezgins,
• Ingush,
• Kabardians,
• Circassians,
• Adyghe people,
• Russians,
• Armenians,
• Ossetians.

And this is far from full list peoples living here.

People of different religious views live side by side here:

• Sunni Muslims,
• Shia Muslims,
• Orthodox Christians,
• Christians of other denominations,
• Jews.

In the North Caucasus, a temperate continental climate has formed; closer to the Black Sea, the climate is subtropical. There is a lot of sun and warmth, most of the territory is provided with sufficient moisture and fertile soils.

Traveling through the North Caucasus is a favorite destination for Russian travelers. Unexpected combination of landscapes, unique natural resources, ancient architectural monuments - all this and much more awaits guests who come to the Caucasus.

And there is no doubt that they will forever remember the enchanting, breathtaking, unusual beauty of these places.

Travel to the North Caucasus

All my adult life, to the best of my ability and ability, I have been traveling and doing active tourism. I have been to various “mountainous” corners of the country, including (almost 30 years ago) the Caucasus.

This year, the anniversary was already approaching, and, perhaps, the only gift for these days was my desire not to go to a boring job, to take time off and, at least trivially, at home, drink vodka and get plenty of sleep. However, the wife decided everything differently. It turns out that she thought through everything in advance, saved money for a long time, studied the Internet and the possibilities of going somewhere together. And she gave me one of the most wonderful gifts of my life. She gave me the CAUCASUS!

Caucasus with the CTO regime. The Caucasus, which has recently become synonymous with terrorism. Here, the day before, taxi drivers were killed, they tried to blow someone up, and somewhere in the outskirts, brothers from another gang were killed. And the Caucasus highway was blocked with impassable snow.

The plan that my wife initiated me into looked very much like an adventure. I couldn’t help but remember “Prisoner of the Caucasus”, Zhilin and Kostylin, the brick factories of Dagestan, Budennovsk and Buinaksk - and everything in the same spirit, all in one pile, in one piggy bank of doubts. But, as you know, there is a simple principle in martial arts: “If you are not sure, take a step forward.” And we did it, informing our parents (so as not to worry) that we were going for a ride on alpine skiing not to the North Caucasus, but to Southern Urals, to Bashkiria. And now - an airbus, flight Salekhard - Moscow, Kazansky station and a well-maintained train to Vladikavkaz, smoothly carrying us into the night. And a cozy, modern carriage, where, as a bonus, you receive food, mineral water, a bag with toiletries, soap, toothpaste, a brush, and here... disposable and almost white slippers...

Early morning, train station Mineral waters" Right at the carriage we are met by Sharapi, the driver of the Gazelle, who is supposed to take us to our destination. After 3 hours of driving along a corridor illuminated by headlights, on the sides of which from the darkness one can see silhouettes of trees, then some kind of small settlements, then bridges that cross the Baksan River countless times; After ascents and descents that make our ears slightly stuffy, we are at our Virage hotel. Cozy glowing letters of the name. It’s dark all around, and maybe only with some almost unconscious feeling does one feel the presence of something big and significant nearby.

I feel that from the height – out of habit – I am slightly “led”. The hotel has a simple, homely atmosphere. Magomed Proud (Zalikhanov) treats us to coffee.

The criterion for choosing this hotel by us (that is, my beloved wife!) was its proximity to the slope and ski lifts, and reasonable prices. What is very important is that they serve food here not according to a schedule, but at any time - from 8 am to 12 midnight, so we are free to choose not only the menu, but also the daily routine and food regimen ourselves. And the food here is not only “local”, it is very tasty and satisfying. Portions prepared here and from natural products are large and inexpensive. With a broad gesture, Magomed announces to us the rule: - if you don’t like the food, you don’t have to pay for it!

I look out the window - it’s already dawn. And suddenly, like an avalanche, a feeling of delight and real happiness covers me, which, even now - in memories - does not let me go. I see something that I have not seen before in the darkness of the early morning. I see MOUNTAINS!

Further in my report, I plan to limit myself to only relatively brief explanations of the photographs (which are actually 20 times more than I post). But why then am I so verbose now? “I’m just analyzing what happened and trying to understand myself.” In this suddenly surging and never letting go of grace and euphoria that descended on me that morning. This is really important to me.

Yes, I probably subconsciously wanted to return to the Caucasus for a long time. Many of the names of the mountains, hiking and mountaineering routes along them are familiar to me. I dreamed of visiting them, but it never happened. Yes, this is a return to the land of my youthful dreams.

Or maybe there was an effect known to some at work here - the feeling experienced by a person who has experienced severe mental or physical trauma, or an illness on the verge of survival - and the subsequent recovery from this state, which suddenly radically changes his attitude towards life. And now she is truly beautiful!

Yes, probably, this factor also takes place: I was let go by the ordinariness and even the joylessness of everyday existence and the considerable doubts and fears that we experienced before the trip to the Caucasus. Everything went away, dissipated somehow all at once!

And one more thing. Do you know the feeling of delight? This is when the chest is full of air and yet is a little short of breath. He is INTERCEPTED. Perhaps here it is due to lack of acclimatization and the altitude. This temporary physiological feature of any organism also gave an impulse to the brain. And he, with feedback, also “read” it as a feeling of joy and delight. Then everything was completed by the vastness of the sky and the immensity of the blue mountains, the magnificent crystal world at our feet, the warm attitude of those around us, the whole atmosphere, and, probably, Elbrus itself, on the slope of which I spent my 50 years.

Don't judge strictly. In the photographs (except for the second) the crowd of transport, people, skiers, snowboarders and other manifestations of recreation and active life are practically not visible. This is just MY view of the Caucasus. On its mountains, and a little on life in the valleys.

Our hotel, morning of the first day, altitude 2300m above sea level.

Glade Azau is especially lively on weekends, when people from all nearby places come here to ride. Here, as in Cheget, and in general ski fields, there is a local market and many places where you can eat and relax.

The glade is located in the upper reaches of the Baksan River, at an altitude of 2350m and is the exit to the south-eastern (and then southern) slope of Elbrus and to three ski lifts: a beginner ski lift and two more “high-mountain” ones - with trailers for 30 standing places and cabins for 8 "seated" places. The last 2 lifts move in parallel. The first stage is the “Novy Krugozor” station at an altitude of 3000m, the second is the “Mir” station at an altitude of 3500m.

Higher up, you can sometimes take a chair lift to the “Bochki” shelter (Garabashi station, 3780m). Here and higher (in winter) - to “Shelter 11” (4200m) or even higher, to the Pastukhov rocks (4800m), for a fee, snowcats or powerful snowmobiles with dashing mountaineers at the wheel will take you.

There is construction going on everywhere around the villages and ski lift stations and there is a sense of some incompleteness of this process. I would like to believe that over time everything will be sorted out and this corner will be equipped at the highest level.

The supports for the third stage of ascent have already been installed up Elbrus. Future visitors to the Elbrus region, without putting in extra effort, will one day be able to rise to an even greater height than now.

And here is that old hard worker - a trailer.

Cabins against the backdrop of slopes and mountains

Sometimes, if you look closely, literally from the windows of a hotel or hotel on high snow-covered slopes you can see aurochs - mountain sheep.

There are several of them in the frame, I’ll zoom in on the bottom one

In Great Patriotic War In the battles for the Caucasus - according to the latest data - about nine hundred thousand defenders died. Low bow to you and Bright Memory! Thank you for the holiday of life that you gave us!

The museum at the Mir station is small, and I would say poor. Interesting guide and exhibits. As a former climber, I am also interested in the equipment of those years. These best examples were probably not available to many THEN, but now they are hopelessly outdated. In general, the museum makes you think, “try on” those conditions of war and battles. And, indeed, there comes an understanding of the immeasurable, silent, sometimes unknown feat that was accomplished here...

It seems that people don’t come here often these days. What - alive - alive.

Cheget (about three kilometers from the Azau clearing), a hotel and tourist area near the chairlift on the slope of the mountain of the same name. The first step is two-chair (bench for 2 people) - up to the Ai cafe. The second stage has single seats.

You can get from the Azau clearing to Cheget in winter either through the forest or along highway, through the village of Terskol, which we can now see from above. The village itself is interesting because even in the ancient times Soviet times(somewhere) LEATHER ski boots with the same name - “Terskol” were produced. The mountain training center of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation and the Elbrus High Mountain Search and Rescue Squad of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia are also located here.

Now, from the slopes of Cheget, we can see Terskol from above.

Cafe Ai, view of Elbrus. It is approximately 12.5 km from here to its peaks

Mount Elbrus is the highest point in Europe, has 2 peaks with heights of 5621m and 5642m meters above sea level. Having no serious technical obstacles, Elbrus is nevertheless difficult to climb mainly due to the impact of high altitude on the human body. In the battles for the Caucasus, in history and even in the results of the war, this world-famous mountain played a very remarkable role.

During the conquest of Russia German Germany Among the most important tasks was the capture of ore-bearing regions of the Caucasus and, most importantly, control over Caspian oil. Western Siberia was not yet mastered, and by depriving Russia of fuel, Germany had a real chance to end the war faster and with a different result.

The deployment of mountain divisions to the Caucasus (1942) was carried out secretly, without unnecessary fuss. The Germans fortified themselves here thoroughly and for a long time, on “Priyut11” and on every high-rise, until the commander of the First Alpine Division “Edelweiss” decided to take the initiative. As a political action, preparation was carried out, and then the raising and hoisting of the standards of Nazi Germany on both peaks of Elbrus.

Europe and the world learned that in the Caucasus and highest point German domination was established in Europe.

Hitler was furious. The “quiet” penetration into the Caucasus was thwarted, and the Russians, having understood and realized the enemy’s strategic plan, urgently began to assemble and move their companies and units to the Caucasus and Elbrus.

Here we must return to our days. The general warming of the climate, the melting of snowfields and glaciers began to reveal unexpected finds. On hiking and mountaineering trails, next to ski slopes, after almost 7 decades, the glaciers encircling the approaches to Elbrus began to appear in the light of God and return ammunition, unexploded mines, and weapons. And the remains of unknown soldiers who fell here... and even unaccounted for in military archives.

Another hidden or hushed story about an unknown battle on the slopes of Elbrus. Another reminder of war next to the carefree nature of a bustling ski resort.

As it turned out later, this was the first unnumbered consolidated company (hastily assembled from people who had neither ranks nor military training, under the leadership of Lieutenant Grigoryants, a former... ladies' hairdresser) which was given the impossible task of not only containing the elite units of the enemy, but also capturing "Shelter 11". Without any equipment or mountain warfare skills or any weapons, they moved into the snowy highlands and, taking advantage of the fog, almost approached the enemy’s fortified points.

But... the weather is changeable and the fog has cleared.

In the bravura German photo chronicles of those years, you can see footage of how the Germans shot our soldiers from high-rise buildings with machine guns. Exhausted and practically defenseless.

The approaches to Elbrus are surrounded by a continuous network of glaciers and glaciers. And if, with experience, you can move in crampons on firn or runny ice, almost without wasting time, then the passage of a glacier is always more unpredictable, difficult, and requires movement in cords.

The glacier, where the soldiers who did not have special equipment and mountain training retreated during the battle, was “closed.” That is, the cracks, sometimes bottomless, were hidden by snow. Snow, which did not always support the weight of a person. So the remaining soldiers of this company disappeared. The first one to lie in the snow and ice of Elbrus.

The story of a doomed attempt to contain the enemy. Small episode great war, where there was one goal - to defend their borders. And win. At any cost.

In the village of Terskol, on a hillock, recently there has been an inconspicuous monument to these fighters. Some of the found remains were moved here. Some of the names are known. The names of the rest are kept by the silent slopes of Elbrus. – This is a small story, one of many. Just a hitherto almost unknown, private episode of the war.

But let's return to Cheget. From the stations of the first and second ascent, a wonderful view opens not only of Elbrus, but also of the Mountain Range on the other side, and of the Baksan River valley. Here you can easily find a place where you can relax and have a tasty snack. Chebureks of this size and delicious taste can only be found in the Caucasus!!!

Army men. Mountain troops, contract soldiers from Terskol. Young, healthy and very strong guys in all mountain disciplines. They can climb high on Elbrus on foot or on skis (“ski touring bindings, kamus”), and can descend from it like alpine skiers. And so - several times a day. Now they are preparing to descend from the slope of Cheget.

The ski slopes of Cheget are characterized as one of the most difficult in the world. The trails, due to the steepness of the slopes, cannot be serviced by snowcats; there are no signs or fences here. This is a wild, uncultivated, rutted slope, the descents of which do not imply the possibility of slalom, since non-stop descent is practically impossible. The descent often resembles moguls. There are icy areas at the bottom of the route, which is also not fun. Although if you are looking not for pleasure and comfort from skiing, but for difficulties, this is the place for you.

On a winter day, the valley quickly plunges into shadow, becoming cool and uncomfortable.

Facing the choice of where to go to " winter holidays“, my wife read on the Internet something like the following lines: “if you decide to come on vacation to Cheget, then this is only your problem.” Briefly, but especially understandable when you visit here. It’s good here, but still, the Azau clearing is better in every way!

Ushba (accent on the last syllable) is a two-headed mountain as part of the Main Caucasus Range, height southern peak– 4710m, the left “spur” in the plan is Mount Shkhelda (4320m)

“Shelter 11” is the highest mountain shelter in Europe, at an altitude of 4200m. It is named after the number of expedition members who first selected and cleared the site for the construction of the building.

The three-story structure in the form of a metal-clad airship was built before the war, in the thirties, and for many decades served as a refuge or temporary shelter for scientific services, tourists and climbers. Shelter 11 burned down due to oversight in 1998. The building of unusual architecture, which fits so harmoniously into the slope of Elbrus, serving as a kind of symbol of the local highlands, can now only be seen in old photographs and videos.

“Shelter 11” was located next to a small rock, where you can see memorial plaques and read the names of those whose bright souls remained forever connected with this mountain.

And the shelter now serves as a former boiler room, located a little lower, also having an oval-shaped base. This is an abandoned building, covered with snow, where, if necessary, you can really rest and spend the night.

I got inside the second floor through a broken window covered with a blanket. Inside there are rooms, bunks, blankets, food. You can say - live and have fun. But here you can really feel the influence of altitude: some lack of coordination, shortness of breath and slowness.

I managed to get into the first floor. It turns out that both Shelter 11 and this building had a system steam heating. What's notable inside today is a stack of portholes and some metal plates with spikes and chains. Something incomprehensible from “those” years.

Returning to the history of the fighting on Elbrus, we can tell another story. The Germans occupied Shelter 11 without a fight - there were only two Red Army soldiers and three scientists there, whom they took by surprise - because at that time, as I already said, no one knew about the secret operation and the plans of the Germans. Everyone was expecting death, but they were sent down to report that the Elbrus region now belongs to Germany. The continuation of this story - some time later - was the appearance of Sergeant Grigoryants' company here, the fate of which I have already told.

Shelter Garabashi (“Barrels”), southern slope of Elbrus, altitude 3780m. Behind it (6 km) are the peaks of Donguz-Orun (4468m) and Nakra (4277m). Between them, on the sidelines, is the Semyorka glacier.

Only high-quality acclimatization helps to have a good holiday in the highlands. To do this, you need to periodically go down to the lower valleys and lead an active lifestyle. Therefore, we are again on foot along the forest path, heading to Cheget

Nearby, from a rocky gorge, from the glacier of the same name, the Garabashi River flows into the valley.

To be in the Caucasus and not eat barbecue from time to time is simply unacceptable! However, I note that it is most soft, juicy and tasty when your Caucasian friend orders it for you. There is no “burnt” alcohol here. Of the cognacs, we liked Lezginka the most, of the vodkas, the mischievous Gulyaka, and the only beer I drank was Terek. Among soft drinks, lemonades “Elbrus” and “Duchess” are beyond any competition.

In the Elbrus region, in addition to skiing (or snowboarding), you can find recreation for every taste and budget. Here you can go sledding or various inflatable bagels, go hiking, skiing, horseback riding, quad biking or snowmobiling. You can also hunt or fish here. All year round.

Here, for example, is “Rakhat”, a private flowing trout pond surrounded by gazebos. Winter ice fishing is now possible. The trout you catch will literally be turned into a delicious dish before your eyes.

And again to the Mountains!

Old cable car, trailer, Mir station, altitude 3500m.

The photo glares, so I translate the contents of the caption: “Zalikhanov Chokka Aslamovich climbed Elbrus 209 times. He made his last ascent to the eastern peak of Elbrus on his 110th birthday.”

Here too interesting story, which I managed to come into contact with. The name in the photo seemed familiar to me, I asked Magomed a question, and as it turned out, the owner of our hotel is a relative of this grandfather!

But maybe this exaggeration was said as a joke or as a “sweet spot”?! - Not at all! Later, Magomed’s acquaintance Alim, with whom we traveled by car, said that Chokka Aslamovich in Moscow had “big people” in two ministries, either 2 sons or 2 grandsons (I don’t remember). And so they often brought friends and colleagues with them in order to take them to Elbrus. Despite the years, grandfather never refused to accompany the group on the ascent.

Mir station with Elbrus in the background.

Modern high-altitude technology.

Fragment of the closed Azau Maly glacier.

Descent – ​​route from Mir station.

Army soldiers on the slope of Elbrus.

View of the Azau clearing from above.

Goodbye Elbrus!

Near the Krugozor station.

“When we leave, we will leave, we will fly away,

When we ride our cars,

How empty the paths will suddenly become,

How lonely the peaks will be without us..."

Nine days flew by like an instant. Bright and happy.

Early in the morning, when we left the Azau clearing, hotel workers came out to see us off. In the cool morning, women shifted on the steps at the entrance and wished us a good journey. A lump came to my throat.

Finally, we had a car tour of interesting places Kabardino-Balkaria. The following shots and a sea of ​​positive emotions would have been impossible without Magomed, to whom we turned with a question:

What other attractions are there nearby? – it was he who recommended Alim, Sharapi’s son, to us, who turned out to be a wonderful conversationalist, guide and driver.

Near molybdenum mines...

Do you remember movies where the Great American Canyon (Grand Canyon in Colorado, Arizona, USA) appears in the frame? The Upper Caucasus can rival and even surpass the most famous mountainous places in the world in beauty, absolute heights and diversity of mountain terrain...

And again there are snowy mountains ahead.

Chegem. Really beautiful place, which carries in its name the intrigue that Fazil Iskander once created. The Abkhaz writer, writing “Sandro from Chegem,” settled his characters in the idyllic world of a small village Chegem, which in fact... is not on the maps of Abkhazia.

And one more thing. During this trip, I involuntarily got the impression that everyone in Kabardino-Balkaria knows each other in one way or another, are acquaintances of friends, or are even close or distant relatives. The law of survival of any people is in unity, in joy and in sorrow. Here they remember all their relatives and their ENTIRE clan, all their acquaintances, guests and just fellow countrymen. For the Elbrus region, this includes Kaisyn Kuliev, Dima Bilan, Vladimir Vysotsky and the local seer Mikhonya, Elbrus climber Chokka Zalikhanov or even Nikita Dzhigurda. Everything here is connected by invisible threads, which are based on memory, honor and dignity, the physical and moral impossibility of casting a shadow through one’s actions, disgracing one’s family, one’s relatives and friends.

One of the remarkable features of the Balkars is their Human Dignity. During all the days spent in the Caucasus, I NEVER noticed in communication a shadow of unfriendliness, hidden ridicule or servility towards us.

In the photo are Alim’s acquaintances. Before the introduction of the CTO regime, they were engaged in jeep tourism in the most remote and intimate corners of Balkaria. Now they are circling the horses. You should see with what natural grace they move along the streets of their village!

We go deeper into the mountains again.

Beyond the village of Khushtosyrt, following our path, we find ourselves in the SU-Auzu (“water throat”) gorge, where the famous Chegem waterfalls begin.

The length of this section is 5 km, the road changes from coast to coast 5 times due to steep cliffs. The height of the walls is up to 300m. The height of the ridge is about 3000m, the bottom of the gorge is at around 1100m.

The overwhelming majority of the local population does not drink or smoke. However, everything necessary for the usual joys of the average Russian can be found here without difficulty. Some drinks have a touch of Caucasian exoticism.

The cafe, whose premises are carved into the body of the rock, is traditionally cozy. You can write songs about Caucasian cuisine.

And again the road.

Another beautiful frozen waterfall on the Andaisu River. Its height is about 30 meters.

Our road then breaks out into an enchanting expanse,

then again squeezes into the mountain gorges,

or even goes through the thickness of the mountain in a tunnel.

No, we're still not in Arizona.

This is the multifaceted CAUCASUS, stunning in its beauty and uniqueness!

In Kabardino-Balkaria there are mosques in almost every village. Usually small and almost standard (this is an exception). Christian, Jewish or Buddhist places of worship we haven't met here. “Interpenetration of cultures” occurs only on the territory of Russia. And here is Islam.

People live their usual lives, but the Caucasus is still changing. Excellent roads have been built here, gas has been supplied to the mountain villages, and you will no longer see a cart drawn by oxen, or an elderly mountaineer riding a donkey hung with packs. There are no yaks, much fewer racehorses, and now on the streets you won’t see a shepherd or a buster in wide (almost “breeches”) pants with a leather bottom, like they sported in the mountains about 30 years ago.

In the local mountains you can walk along old trade routes, visit ancient settlements and tombs, see villages abandoned by people or ancient towers.

You can also see rows of monuments on the mountain slopes - places where entire villages were destroyed in the 30s.

Did sad thoughts inspire me with this image? In the outlines of the mountains, against the background of the sky, I see the silhouette of a sleeping mountaineer. I hope this is the guardian of the valley, and not the face of the Leader of All Nations.

Memorial plaque at the mosque. Only people capable of preserving memory can be called the People.

And again the road. Sometimes at the very edge of the cliff.

Bottomless Blue Lakes. Greetings from Roma...

All good things come to an end. We move away from the mountains, and they are gradually covered with a curtain of twilight and fog. The beautiful, moving, deeply moving performance is over...