Bombay India. This amazing Bombay (Mumbai). Best time to arrive

Mumbai (until 1996 the city was called Bombay) is the economic and financial capital of India. The main bank of the country is located here - the Reserve Bank of India, the Bombay Stock Exchange, the headquarters of many large Indian companies (Tata Group, Reliance Industries Ltd., Mahindra and Mahindra), commercial banks, as well as representative offices of a large number transnational corporations. Mumbai - large knot international routes of communication. Having a deep natural harbour, it is the largest port in western India. Mumbai is the center of the entertainment industry: it is home to most of India's television and satellite networks, as well as India's dream factory, Bollywood.

Attractions

Elephanta Island.

One of the main attractions of Western India. The small island, located in the Bay of Bombay (10 km from Mumbai), received its name from the stone figure of an elephant carved into the rock, which was transported to Bombay in 1864.

There is a temple on the island, built between 450 and 750 AD. AD, dedicated to the god of the Indian pantheon Shiva. A long, wide stone staircase (approximately 90 m) leads to the place where this temple is located, consisting of four caves. IN main cave there is a relief image (about 6 m high) of the trinity of Indian gods: Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The vault is supported by 42 massive columns, and the side walls are decorated with relief images of scenes from the myths of Shiva. The entrance to the temple is guarded by eight figures of mythical guards carved from stone.

From others sculptural compositions Of interest are the “Arddhanariswar” (where one side of Shiva’s body is made as a man’s and the other as a woman’s), the wedding scene of Shiva and Parvati, the dance of Shiva shaking the world. Also worthy of attention is the sculpture of the demon Ravana, who is trying to destroy the abode of the gods, Mount Kailash.

Gateway of India.

Located at the end of the street named after. Shivaji (Maratha national hero). This massive arch, which was officially opened in 1924, is located on the embankment of the Mumbai creek. Designed by J. Whittet, it was built in honor of the visit of King George V to India in 19110. and symbolized the inviolability of British rule. It is notable for the fact that in 1947 British troops passed through it when they left India after the country gained independence. Near the India Gate there is an equestrian statue of Shivaji, erected in 1960, as well as the Royal Bombay Yacht Club building, which was built in 1898 in the Gothic style.

Taj Mahal Hotel.

Located next to India Gate. The hotel building was built in 1903 by the famous industrialist J.N. Tata according to the design of W. Chambers. The hotel is also notable for being home to the first Russian diplomatic mission in India. Now it is one of the best five-star hotels in the city, where a large number of cultural and business events take place.

Museum named after Chattrapati Shivaji.

The museum, also known as the Prince of Wales Museum, was built to commemorate King George V's first visit to India in 1905, who laid the foundation stone for the museum. In 1923 it was opened to the public. The museum building is made in the Indo-Moorish style. The exhibition has three main sections: art, archeology and natural history. The collection is based on the holdings of the Royal Asiatic Society. Subsequently, the museum's collection was constantly replenished with works of art and historical valuables donated by representatives of India's financial and industrial elite. In particular, the Tata family made a great contribution to the development of the museum.

The gallery on the ground floor houses sculptures by local artists and a rich collection of Indian birds. On the second floor there are various objects of art, including paintings, dishes, weapons, etc. On the third floor there is a wonderful collection of Indian miniatures.

The entire exhibition occupies 18 halls on three floors and includes more than 6 thousand exhibits. Main halls: ancient and ancient history, Assyrian palace bas-reliefs, Indian sculpture, Indian bronze sculpture, Nepalese and Tibetan art, European painting, art of the peoples of the Far East.

Station named after Chhatrapati Shivaji.

Station named after Ch. Shivaji, previously known as the station named after. Queen Victoria, is considered one of the most beautiful Gothic buildings in the city. Finally built in 1888, it was originally designed by the English architect F. Stevens as the headquarters of the Hindustan Railway Company. Listed as Worldwide cultural heritage UNESCO.

Bombay University.

The university, which is one of the oldest universities in India, was founded by the British in 1857 (at the same time as the Universities of Calcutta and Madras). Now it has 46 faculties, including the Russian language faculty, and unites 338 colleges. More than 380 thousand students study at the university and colleges.

In one of the university buildings there are big hall with a circular stained glass window depicting the signs of the zodiac, and a university library with spiral steps and colorful galleries. The building is crowned by an 80-meter clock tower, reminiscent of London's Big Ben.

Jyotiba Mahatma Phule Market.

This is Mumbai's largest indoor food market. Better known as Crawford Market, it was built in 1869 with the participation of the father of the famous English writer R. Kipling. It is believed that Kipling the Elder is the author of the bas-reliefs on the market building. On the opposite side of the street, in the depths of the garden, the Kipling house, where the writer spent his childhood, has been preserved.

Mumbai Stock Exchange.

The modern high-rise exchange building, also known as the Bombay Stock Exchange, is located on Dalal Road. The exchange was founded in 1875 as the Stock Brokers Association and is the oldest exchange not only in India but also in Asia.

Flora's Fountain.

This fountain is located at the intersection of the most important streets in the southern part of the city on the site of the gates of the English fort that were previously located there. It was built in 1869 in honor of B. Frere, the Governor of Bombay.

Asiatic Society building.

This large white building with columns used to house the municipality. It was then given to the Asiatic Society and now houses an extensive library. Next to it is the building of the old mint, built in 1828, and not far from it is the old customs house (1720).

Afghan church.

The church was built in 1847 in memory of British military , who died during the Sindhi campaign of 1838 and the Afghan war of 1843.

Cathedral of St. Thomas.

Anglican Cathedral of St. Thomas at the intersection of the streets. The Nariman and Cowasjee Patel Veer is the oldest English building in Mumbai.

Marine Drive.

This crescent-shaped promenade stretches along the entire Back Bay and is considered one of the best places for walking.

Chowpatty beach.

Located at the beginning of Marine Drive. This sandy beach is one of the favorite pastime places for city residents. He is also famous for witnessing a number of events in Indian history. Thus, during the struggle for independence, it was there that one of the largest anti-English protests began. In 1920, the prominent leader of the national liberation movement Bal Gangadhar Tilak was cremated here, and a monument to him was erected on the beach.

Taraporevala Aquarium.

Built in 1961, the aquarium is located on Marine Drive and has a rich collection of freshwater and oceanic fish and shells.

Malabar Hill.

Some parts of this hill in one of the most famous areas of the southern part of the city offer wonderful views of Mumbai. In addition, there are a number of attractions here, including the Hanging Gardens, famous for their collection of plants. Next to them, covered with dense foliage of trees, are the so-called. towers of silence, where Parsis (immigrants from Persia, followers of Zoroastrianism) used to bury their dead. According to their religion, water, fire and earth are sacred and cannot be desecrated by the bodies of the dead, therefore it is customary among the Parsis to give corpses to be eaten by vultures, placing them on the tops of these towers. On the same street as the Hanging Gardens is one of the best parks city ​​- park named after. Kamala Nehru. In the southern part of the hill is the Raj Bhavan, the residence of the Governor of Maharashtra.

Mahalakshmi Temple.

Located in the prestigious Breach Candy area, located at the foot of the Malabar Hill, this famous temple is dedicated to the Hindu goddess of well-being, Mahalakshmi.

Mausoleum of Hadji Ali.

Built a few tens of meters from the shore on the site of the death of a Muslim saint named Haji Ali, in whose honor it was erected. It is connected to the shore by a long passage, which sometimes goes under water at high tide.

Siddhivinayaka Temple.

One of the main Hindu temples in Mumbai is located in the Prabha Devi area. Dedicated to the god of the Hindu pantheon, Ganesha, whose statue, made of black stone, is located inside.

Mani bhavan.

In this house, located near August Kranti Square, from 1917 to 1934. M. Gandhi's headquarters was located in Bombay, where in 1931 and 1934. Important meetings of the working committee of the Indian National Congress took place. It was here that on January 4, 1932, M. Gandhi was arrested by the British authorities.

The library located on the ground floor of the museum contains more than 30 thousand volumes of M. Gandhi's works, books about his life, as well as studies on the philosophy of Gandhism by Indian and foreign authors. On the second floor there is an auditorium where visitors can watch films about M. Gandhi or listen to recordings of his speeches. The room on the third floor gives museum guests a complete picture of the conditions in which M. Gandhi lived and worked; its furnishings and furniture are as close as possible to the original ones. The museum also has an exhibition of sculptures by M. Gandhi and a small art gallery with a rich collection of photographs, letters, articles and documents, including manuscripts of M. Gandhi and his associates.

Kanheri Caves.

Kanheri Caves are located 45 km from historical center Mumbai, in one of the most attractive corners of the National Park. S. Gandhi. These are 109 caves of various sizes, carved out of stone during the period from the 1st century. BC e. to the 9th century n. e. From the point of view of the development of Buddhist culture, the history of the creation of caves can be divided into three stages: the first stage covers the end of the 1st-2nd centuries. BC, second – IV-V centuries. AD and the third stage – IV-IX centuries. AD In their design, the Kanheri caves reflect two directions of Buddhism - “Hinayana” and “Mahayana”.

The caves were used by Buddhist monks for housing, study and as places for prayer and meditation. The high architectural level of the cave temples gives visitors a clear idea of ​​the existence in Kanheri of a highly organized settlement of Buddhist monks who had well-developed connections with many of the major trading centers of India. In the mid-70s, Indian scientists discovered evidence that the Kanheri cave monastery was a major center of learning.

The most interesting cave is No. 3, the largest in size and original in design, attracting attention with its high colonnade and architectural style.

Today we will talk about Mumbai - the largest and richest city in India and the most populous in the world.About sleeper buses, a large city laundry, an electric washing machine, and about another wedding - this time a Muslim one.

Bom Bahai- These are the words, according to legend, that the Portuguese said when they landed here, and this meant “Good Harbor”. This is how the first name of the city Bombay appeared, then the British changed it in their own way - Bombay, and after gaining independence the city received its modern name.

Many Indians believe that Mumbai is more suitable for life in general and making money in particular than the capital, Delhi (in one of our previous posts we talked about our person who came here to earn money). We spent 5 days here, walking around Colaba, Marina Bay andacting in a movie.

We arrived from Mumbai by night bus. These buses changed our consciousness, because it was then that we learned that there are sleeper buses, i.e. with shelves for sleeping! The configuration of the bus is as follows - on the left side there are shelves one under the other (like the sides in a reserved seat), and on the right, the lower part is reserved for seats, and the upper part is for... double shelves!! Moreover, the shelves are closed from outsiders with a latch, so complete privacy is ensured.

When we rode around Europe in 2007 trailer, there it was forbidden to lie down while driving, you had to sit in chairs, fastened with seat belts (the extent to which this rule was observed is a separate conversation, but nevertheless), but here you are welcome - official sleeping buses.

The first thing that surprised us when we got off the bus was the absence auto rickshaw(they are so integral to India and so ubiquitous that their absence is immediately noticeable). Instead they are yellow and black taxi cabs

The main tourist area of ​​Mumbai is Colaba. Here, on an area of ​​several square kilometers, practically all tourist life is concentrated, at least the concentration of foreigners here is off the charts. Hotels - from the cheapest to 5-star, restaurants - from street eateries to decent establishments of the European level, shops, carriages taking tourists around


as well as Bollywood agents looking for white extras - all this is here in Colaba.
Here is the Indian Gate (Gateway to India), in front of which a stage for special events was installed in honor of some holiday.



Nearby is one of the most expensive hotels in Mumbai, the Taj Mahal.

From the top floor of the hotel there is a wonderful view of the city

There is also a port from which you can sail to the islands located nearby.

Fishing boats and small yachts drift in the bay

We sailed to Elephanta Island, there are two types of ferries going there - more expensive and simpler

We went on the second one 🙂 The ferry moored to the pier, from which it takes about 10 minutes to walk to the shore, there is a train running right there for an additional fee - Europeans walk, and mostly lazy Indians ride it

Some people still refuse to walk

Due to the low tide, many boats were stranded

On the island you can climb to the top of the mountain



British cannons that once defended the island are partially preserved here. In addition, there is a “City of Caves” on the island, Elephanta Caves; we are not fans of caves, so we declined to visit.
In the evening, returning to Mumabi, you can admire the city before sunset

One of the symbols of Mumbai, the Haji Ali Mosque, is also located on an island, although not so remote - during high tide you can reach it via a bridge, and during low tide there is no need for a bridge



We unfortunately ended up here on a Sunday when apparently all the Muslims in Mumbai came here.


Not far from the mosque there is another interesting place- Dhobi Gat (Dobi Gat) is the largest laundry. Hundreds of people wash clothes by hand in concrete cells



They say linens are brought here from most hotels and hospitals in Mumbai.

This is also where the laundromat employees live next door.

While walking around the city, we stopped by an exhibition, some of the exhibits of which we still didn’t understand

But some are very interesting, for example a washing machine

Water filter
Bicycle assembled from machine parts

In the evening, many tourists and local residents gather on the Marina Drive embankment - this great place for evening exercise

You can leisurely stroll along the long and wide embankment for as long as you like, watching the sunset

and admiring the city strewn with lights

There is also a beach here, but no one dares to swim, and Indians don’t like to sunbathe, why should they?

They have just the opposite here - whitening creams are popular. We somehow accidentally saw an advertisement on local television, and in every second commercial, an Indian woman with a whitened face shows off in front of her girlfriends or men. It’s hard to imagine this, living in a country where solarium is one of the most popular services =)
Not far from the embankment there is a monument to the boot, which doubles as a place for children to have fun
In the center of the city, as expected, there is a stadium with many cricket players

The local metro in Mumbai (as in Bangalore) only runs on the surface, but here it is much older, so it looks the part


There are two classes in the metro, respectively II is cheaper and more cramped, I is more decent and more spacious, as well as women's carriages. We accidentally walked into one of these, and the aunties around us hissed at us like snakes. They say the fines are quite impressive for such a violation.
On the outskirts of the city, these are the views from the car windows:

In Mumbai, we lived with three different, completely different people in different parts of the city.
### - lives in an elite area of ​​the city in a small but modern apartment with a plasma panel and other pleasures of life. Previously, he worked for hire, and now, having gained experience, he has become an independent HR consultant and organizer of corporate events. Moreover, he himself loves active recreation and specializes, accordingly, in organizing tours for companies - rafting, rock climbing, trekking, etc. Again, it was surprising to learn that in India there are such concepts as “corporate events” and HR :)
$$$ lives with his parents not far from the center, but in a windowless hut with a cement floor, peeling walls and a bunch of dusty trash. At the same time, he is also a businessman - he is engaged in robotics, speaks at conferences in South America, there are customers even from Russia. In addition, $$$ is one of the most active members of the couchsurfer movement in Mumbai, he has already hosted more than a hundred guests, but he places them on the floor on a mattress in the environment of hanging drying clothes, so not only is it not easy to understand Russia with your mind, India is also difficult :)
@@@ lives on the outskirts of Mumbai with 2 colleagues. For a three-room apartment an hour's drive from the center, they pay 50,000 rupees - real estate prices here are almost Moscow prices. At the same time, they pay an employee who comes twice a day, cleans the apartment, prepares breakfast and dinner 5,000 rupees per month.
While we were looking for where @@@ lives, we accidentally ended up at another wedding - this time a Muslim one






The influence of the metropolis was felt here too - the wedding was clearly richer and more elegant, with many decorations

both decorative and natural

And although the principle of self-service was also observed here, tables and chairs were provided for guests

And the waiters served fruit and milkshakes

But its main difference was that the assortment included many meat dishes





and only a small corner was reserved for vegetarians


And of course, you can’t talk about Mumbai without mentioning the film industry, especially since the desire to look at Bollywood from the inside and star in a film was there even before we arrived here.
We will talk about our filming in Bollywood in the next post, but for now you can read about how we were in

When I was planning a trip to India, I budgeted only a day for Bombay: I flew in from Goa in the evening, and flew from Bombay to Calcutta the next evening. I decided that one day of light would be enough for Bombay, but in the end I was greatly mistaken: the city is absolutely magnificent and majestic. And not so much even for its monumental British (Victorian) buildings, but for the amazing mixture of cultures and architectural styles of the city as a whole. We will make allowances for the fact that this is far from a “safe haven” where you can relax and enjoy the aura. This is a gigantic 25 million metropolis full of poverty and garbage, critically overpopulated, with a bunch of interreligious problems (70% Hindus, 20% Muslims, 5% Christians, 5% Buddhists), overloaded with transport and a depressing environmental situation. India, motherfucker! And yet, I liked Bombay more than I would like to return here. The city, by the way, is quite young: having been founded by the British in 1672 (it is significant that the British East India Company bought this land from the Portuguese, who landed in India a hundred years earlier), it remains to this day the business and financial capital of India , leaving even Delhi behind in this context.

One of the symbols of Bombay (and India as a whole) is the Gateway of India monument, or Gateway to India. A lot has been written about it in guidebooks and I won’t repeat it. Let me just say that this massive gate in the very center of Bombay was erected by the British in 1924 as a symbol of their colonial greatness and conquest of India. It is ironic that just 23 years later the last British soldiers were leaving India in a hurry after independence.

Opposite the Gateway to India stands the classic and most expensive hotel in the city, the Taj Mahal Palace, also a calling card of Bombay. By the way, it has nothing to do with the British and was built in 1903 by the richest man in India and the founder of the Tata corporation (almost the entire Indian industry is part of his empire), Jamshedji Nasserwanji Tata. It is believed that he, being offended by the disrespectful attitude towards himself (due to the color of his skin) from the staff in a London hotel, decided to create a hotel of a level of chic that Europe had not seen. And he succeeded; at the beginning of the 20th century it was certainly one of the best hotels in the world.

On November 26, 2008, the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel became the scene of a bloody drama when dozens of Islamic militants attacked the hotel and took many tourists hostage. During the storming of the hotel by the Indian army and police, 37 people were killed and the building was seriously damaged, below are a couple of photographs from those days -

In my opinion, Bombay's main railway station, Victoria Terminus (nowadays renamed Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus), is the most beautiful piece of architecture in Mumbai. Moreover, having traveled to a bunch of countries around the world, I have never seen such a majestic station -

The station was built by the British in 1887 to celebrate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee. It is logical that for Indians this “significant” day has absolutely no value, but rather reminds of colonialism. But the building itself is beautiful, you must agree!

By the way, below is the Supreme Court, also built at the end of the 19th century -

What do children play? Something like tic-tac-toe?

At nearby Bombay University, youth celebrated the founding of a new political party and declared their intention to actively fight corruption -

The taxi driver is sleeping, but the service is going on -

Scientists are resting -

Street entertainment -

Sugarcane juice -

By the way, the place below is called Oval Maidan (hello to Kyiv), where Bombay residents play cricket -

You know, in less than a full day in Bombay, I managed to see quite a lot, for example, the tomb of Haji Ali, located in the northwestern part of Bombay on an island. But more about that next time -

And, yes, about “burning ass” (not to be confused with diarrhea!), it’s downright embarrassing to say. Fellow travelers, is it just me who experiences a similar natural phenomenon from highly spicy Indian food? Who understood me on the topic, and who didn’t - it’s awkward to translate, the topic is painfully intimate :)

Traveling around India is supported by a tour operator

Mumbai is the most populous city in India: the concept of a city includes the so-called. Municipal Corporation of Mumbai, which includes two districts of the state of Maharashtra: “Mumbai” itself (157 km², 3,145,966 inhabitants in 2011), as well as the district “Mumbai (suburban)” (446 km², 9,332,481 inhabitants). in 2011), total 603 km², 12,478,447 inhabitants. in 2011. Together with satellite cities, it forms the fifth largest urban agglomeration in the world with a population of 21.3 million people [ unreputable source?] .

Located at an altitude of 10 meters above sea level. The population density is 21,665 people per km² (the city ranks first in the world in terms of density), about 1/2 of the population is Marathi, about 1/4 is Gujaratis. The city proper occupies the island of Bombay (German) Russian (English) Isle of Bombay) And southern part the Solsett Islands, which are connected by bridges and causeways.

Mumbai is a major hub for international transport routes. The city has a deep natural harbour, being the largest port in western India. About half of India's passenger traffic passes through the passenger terminal. Mumbai, one of the most important economic and cultural centers in India, is a city of great contrasts, where luxury and wealth coexist with poverty. Modern neighborhoods are adjacent to slums - the northern areas of the city, which are considered breeding grounds for various diseases.

Compared to other cities in India, Mumbai has a relatively high standard of living and high business activity. Employment opportunities attract labor to the city from across South Asia, apart from India itself.

Origin of the city's name

The name of the city of Mumbai comes from "Mumb", which is the name of a local Hindu goddess. Mumba Devi And ai, which means "mother" in Marathi. There is an opinion that the name “Bombain”, which was given to the city in the 16th century by the Portuguese, supposedly comes from words meaning “good bay”, but modern research refutes this. Under British rule the word was anglicized into Bombay. The name was officially changed to Mumbai in 1995. The former name is still used by city residents and famous institutions, and is also popular in the West.

Geographical location

Mumbai is located at the mouth of the Ulhas River. Ulhas), occupying the islands of Bombay, Solsett and the adjacent coast. Mumbai is located at altitudes ranging from 10 to 15 meters above sea level. The northern part of Mumbai is hilly, with the city's highest point being 450 meters above sea level. The area of ​​the city is 603.4 km².

There are lakes within the city boundaries: Tulsi (eng. Tulsi), Vihar (English) Vihar), Powai (English) Powai). The first two, located in Borivali National Park. Borivali), supply part of the city with drinking water. There are three rivers in Mumbai that originate in the national park. There are mangrove swamps within the city boundaries. The coastline of the city is indented by numerous streams and bays. The soil in the city is mostly sandy due to the proximity of the sea; in the suburbs it is alluvial and clayey. The rocks are classified as black basalts. Mumbai is located in a seismic zone.

Climatic conditions

Sea coast within the city

The city is located in the subequatorial zone. There are two distinct seasons: wet and dry. The rainy season lasts from June to November, with particularly intense monsoon rains occurring from June to September, causing high humidity in the city. Average temperature about 30 °C, temperature fluctuations from 11 °C to 38 °C. The amount of annual precipitation is 2200 mm. There was especially a lot of precipitation in 1954 - 3451.6 mm. The dry season from December to May is characterized by moderate humidity. Due to the predominance of the cold north wind, January and February are the coldest months; the absolute minimum in the city was +10 degrees.

Demography

Traffic in Mumbai

Mumbai's population is more than 17 million people. The ratio of women to men is 811 to 1000. More of men is explained by the influx of the male population from rural areas to the city to earn money. The literacy rate is 77%, which is higher than the national average. Among men, literacy is 82%, among women - 71.6%. By religion, people professing Hinduism make up 68% of the city's population, Muslims - 17%, Christians - 4% and Buddhists - 4%. In addition, followers of Zoroastrianism, Jainism, Sikhism and Judaism live in the city, and there are atheists. In Mumbai, the spoken form of Hindi (a mixture of Hindi, Marathi and English) is used, but official language The language of the state of Maharashtra is Marathi. English is popular among the working intelligentsia. In the city you can also hear speech in Bengali, Tamil, Punjabi, Nepali, Marathi, Telugu, Urdu, Gujarati.

History of the city

City map. 1888

In the second half of the 19th century, in Bombay, for the first time in India, national industry and a large national commercial and industrial bourgeoisie began to emerge and form. At the same time, the city becomes the center of the Indian labor movement. Mass protests by workers and sailors took place repeatedly. The revolt of naval sailors in February 1946 in Bombay led to India gaining independence ().

Economic potential

Mumbai is one of the country's largest economic centers. About 10% of all the country's workers work in this city. The city provides 33% of income tax revenues and 60% of all customs duties. Mumbai accounts for 40% of India's total foreign trade. The city has developed industries: cotton, oil refining, chemical, mechanical engineering. Electricity is provided by hydroelectric power plants located at the foot of the Western Ghats and thermal power plants on Trombay Island. There is a nuclear power plant. Mumbai is home to many financial institutions: Bombay Stock Exchange, Reserve Bank of India, National Stock Exchange, Mint. Large companies, such as Tata Group, Godrej (eng. Godrej) and many others have their headquarters in the city.

The business center is located in the southern part of Mumbai. Apart from Indian financial institutions, the business center is home to various foreign organizations. Until the 1980s, Mumbai's economy was largely dependent on the textile industry and maritime trade. The port's cargo turnover was 25 million tons. 60% of all imports passed through the cargo port.

After the 80s of the 20th century, other, more progressive and highly skilled industries began to develop in Mumbai, such as: diamond development and polishing, high information technology, healthcare.

It is worth noting that employees working for the state make up a significant part of the city’s total workforce, but at the same time there are many residents engaged in low- and medium-skilled labor: taxi drivers, shopkeepers, mechanics, repairmen and others.

Mumbai is the main center of the entertainment industry. Most of India's television and satellite networks are located in this city. Center of the Indian Film Industry, so-called. Bollywood (English) Bollywood), is located in Mumbai, where there are other, lesser-known film studios.

City government

Mumbai is the capital of the state. It consists of two distinct districts - City and Suburbs, which also form two districts in the state of Maharashtra.

The city is governed by a municipal council, headed by a mayor, who performs purely nominal functions. The real executive power is concentrated in the hands of a commissioner appointed by the state government.

The municipal city council is responsible for the development of the city. Mumbai is divided into 23 city districts, headed by an assistant commissioner.

Crime among the population

Crime in Mumbai is moderate by Indian standards. In Mumbai, 27,577 cases were registered in 2004 (in 2001 - 30,991 cases), there was an 11% decrease in crime during this time. The city's main prison is Arthur Road. On November 27, 2008, riots and a chain of explosions began in Mumbai. There are victims.

Social and cultural life of the city, architecture, attractions

Mumbai is one of the most cosmopolitan cities in India. European and Asian cultural traditions coexist in the city. There are many holidays and festivals of different ethnic groups and religions. The city's population takes part in them widely, often regardless of religion.

Mumbai has its own roadside fast food chain: Vada Pavs and Bhelpuri.

The city has many fans of Chinese and South Indian cuisine. The city is a mixture of international and Indian tastes in music, food, art.

In 2004, Mumbai received three awards from UNESCO for its conservation national traditions. Mumbai is the birthplace of Indian cinema. The first film was released in 1896. The city is located large number cinemas, including the largest in Asia - the IMAX cinema, which shows new films from Bollywood and Hollywood.

In addition to cinema, many exhibitions are held in the city, and many plays are staged in theaters. The city has art galleries: Jehangir Gallery, national gallery contemporary art, Prince of Wales Museum, and others.

Mumbai is home to India's only permanent symphony orchestra (The Bombay Chamber Orchestra).

The oldest public library in the city is the Asiatic Society Library, built in 1833.

Mumbai has six sister cities (this is the maximum allowed by the Indian government):

Bombay was actively built up during the period of British rule, in the second half of the 19th and 20th centuries. Its layout and development retain the features of colonial rule and social inequality. Many buildings in the spirit of English neoclassical and neo-Gothic, as well as imitations Indian architecture-XVIII centuries (Gateway to India, Prince of Wales Museum). The city has many buildings in European and American styles. In the old business quarter there is the Armenian Church of St. Peter (XVIII century)

The center of the city around which Bombay (Mumbai) was formed is a former English fortress, a fort located in the southeastern part of Bombay Island. The area has a proper layout, wide streets, a lot of greenery. On the territory of the fort there are government offices, banks, shops, a university (), and offices of commercial and industrial companies.

To the north of the fort there are haphazardly built-up residential areas (the lower floors of the houses are occupied by shops and workshops) of the former “Black City”. Warehouses, docks, and berths stretch along the eastern shore of the island; branches of both railways connecting Bombay with the mainland also come here. Along west coast islands - rich neighborhoods (villas, governor's residence); in the Malabar Hill area - park " Hanging Garden" On an island off the western coast is located one of the symbols of Mumbai - the Haji Ali Mosque.

The semicircular Marine Drive skirts Back Bay in the south of the island. 8 km from Bombay - Elephanta Island (Gharapuri) with cave temples (dating back to the 8th century); in the largest of them there is a gigantic bust of the three-faced Shiva (about 6 m high; 8th century) and reliefs.

The city expands towards Solsett Island, and the official urban area (since 1950) stretches from south to north, from the fort to the town of Thane. In the northern part of Bombay there are the Trombay nuclear research center, the Institute of Technology (-, built with the help of the USSR), oil refineries, chemical plants, machine-building plants, and thermal power plants.

The city has announced the construction of the world's second tallest building, the India Tower. This building is due to be completed by 2016.

Housing and communal services

The municipality supplies the city with drinking water from lakes national park, is engaged in waste collection (78,000 metric tons per year).

The city has a developed telephone network and cellular operators with large coverage of the area.

Media

In Mumbai, newspapers are published in English (Times of India, Midday, Aftonun, Asia Age, Economic Times, Indian Express), Bengali, Tamil, Marathi, Hindi. The city has television channels (more than 100 in different languages) and radio stations (8 stations broadcast in the FM range and 3 in AM).

Education

There are public and private schools in Mumbai. Private schools base their policy on better education and provide good knowledge of the English language. Public schools educate children of poor people who cannot pay for private schools. After ten years of study (secondary education), students study for 2 years at colleges in four areas: art, trade, science And legislation. This is accompanied by a vocational training course. Most of the professional colleges in Mumbai are affiliated to the University of Mumbai (one of the largest universities in the world). Mumbai also has a developed system of higher university education and university science. Universities in Mumbai are considered among the best both in India and throughout Asia.
Among them:

• - the country's leading technological and engineering university and one of the main research centers in the world.

The westernmost, cosmopolitan and largest city in India, located on the coast of the Arabian Sea. It is often called the "Gateway of India". Mumbai's streets are filled with people from different cultures and wealth levels. This is a city of contrasts, where unheard-of abundance coexists with appalling poverty. Migrants, captivated by the images of Bollywood, come to Mumbai from all over India, as well as from South Asian countries. Despite the incredible population density of 21,665 people per km², people continue to flock to this “city of gold” as Mumbai is a place where both dreams and nightmares can come true.

Video: Mumbai

Story

Once upon a time, this place was just a chain of swampy, malaria-infested islands, inhabited by a few fishermen and peasants who extracted juice from palm trees. The first name in Marathi came from the name of the goddess Mumba, who was revered during the time of the first inhabitants - the Kolis. They lived on all seven islands that were part of the city since the 2nd century. BC It’s amazing but true: the remnants of this culture are still preserved to this day. coastline cities.

The islands were ruled by Hindu dynasties from the 6th century until the Muslim Sultan of Gujarat captured the territories in the 14th century, and they were eventually ceded to Portugal in 1534. The only significant contribution the Portuguese made to the territory was when they christened it " Bom Bahay" (Bom Bahai) before giving lands with dowry to Catherine de Braganza when she married King Charles II of England (1661) . The British government took possession of the islands in 1665, but three years later “leased them out” to the East India Company (East India Company) for a ridiculous annual rent at £10.

The city was then renamed Bombay and became prosperous commercial port. It developed so rapidly that within 20 years it became the main residence of the management of the East India Company, which moved to Bombay from the city of Surat. The construction of the Bombay fortress was completed in the 20s of the 18th century, and only 100 years later, according to an ambitious plan, this land was united with the islands and became the territory that we know today. Although the city developed significantly in the 19th century, it was still relatively isolated from its coastal area until the British defeated the Marathas. (the population of Central India, who controlled most of the country's territories at different times), annexing part of western India to his possessions in 1818.

The walls of the fortress were dismantled in 1864: large-scale construction work began in the city, the main goal of which was to transform the city into an example of the colonial style. When Bombay became Britain's main supplier of cotton during the American Civil War, the country's population increased and trade intensified as money flowed into the city.

An important fighter in the independence movement, Bombay became the city where the first Indian National Congress was held in 1885, and the campaign for the liberation of India was launched in 1942 by frequent visitor Mahatma Gandhi. The city became the capital of the President after independence, but in 1960 Maharashtra and Gujarat were divided along linguistic lines - and Bombay became the capital of the state of Maharashtra.

Rise of the regional pro-Maratha movement led by the Shiv Sena (Hindu party; literally "Shivaji's army"), agitated the multinational population of the city with active discrimination against Muslims and opponents of the Maharaja. The Shiv Sena won the city's municipal elections in 1985. Tension mounted in the city, and cosmopolitan Bombay was threatened when about 800 people died in riots following the destruction of the Babri Masjid in Ayodhya in December 1992.

The unrest was followed by dozens of bombings on March 12, 1993, which killed more than 300 people; these explosions caused damage to the Bombay Stock Exchange and the Air India building. July 2006: train bombing that kills more than 200 people; in November 2008 - planned attacks on 10 city landmarks, which lasted three days (173 people died as a result)... all this suggests that tension is constantly present.

“26/11,” as the Mumbai attacks became known, was a wake-up call for the city. Security has now been increased at many prominent tourist sites, prominent hotels and important financial and government buildings. Entire streets were blocked in some cases, becoming makeshift cricket grounds for large numbers of youth. But Mumbai lives on, its defiant Maratha spirit unbroken, stabilizing life in India's commercial center and global financial engine.

Mumbai today

Today, Mumbai is home to the most successful film production company, one of the largest slums in Asia and the largest rainforest in the city. This city is the “financial aorta” of India, the center of fashion and the intersection of numerous religions. Amidst the fantastic architecture and modern skyscrapers, the busy streets lined with luxurious restaurants, the bustle of the city and the suburban glamor, the chaos and madness, the playful and mesmerizing tunes of raga - complex music performed to the rhythm of desi drums - quietly sound.

Mumbai is also the capital of the state of Maharashtra, an island connected by bridges to the mainland. Marine docks located outside the city dominate the east coast islands. Trading and cultural center The city is located in the south of the claw-shaped island and is known as South Mumbai. The southern peninsula of Colaba is the traditional center where most of the attractions are concentrated, and immediately north of Colaba is a business center called the Fort (Fort), where an old British fortress once stood. It is bordered to the west by a green area of ​​several interconnected fenced grassed areas known as maidans (pronounced "maydans").

Although the north is as important a part of the city as South Mumbai, it is often referred to as the "suburbs" (Suburbs). Here, especially in the expensive suburbs of Bandra (Bandra) and Juhu (Juhu), there is an airport and many best restaurants Mumbai, shops and nightlife.

The opening of the Bandra-Worli sea canal in 2009 reduced the travel between the two areas from one hour to seven minutes, making these upscale suburbs accessible to tourists.

Sometimes you can see how luxury liner, gliding past the large stone arch of triumph, the Apollo Boardwalk and the Yacht Club, docks at Ballard Pier. For other mortals - landing at Chhatrapati Shivaji Airport. The bustle of porters at the dock and rickshaws into which the new arrival had once immersed has now been replaced by a new, modern kind of bustle. In Mumbai, new skyscrapers rise almost every month. It is India's largest and busiest industrial and commercial city, producing automobiles, textiles, chemicals, and nuclear energy. It is also the site of a revival of Indian art. But this enormous wealth is coupled with abject poverty, embodied by women who carry bricks on their heads to build luxury apartments. This is despite the fact that the largest slum area in Asia is located on the outskirts of the city.

For many, visiting the cosmopolitan city of Mumbai means delicious food, nightlife and shopping, but the city has much more to offer than just nightlife and shopping. Nowhere in the world do spectacular Gothic, Victorian and Indo-Saracenic buildings and artistic decoration blend so colorfully with remnants of the British colonial era and many years of European influence. Chhatrapati Shivaji Railway Station (Victoria Station), Supreme Court, University of Mumbai, Taj Mahal Palace Hotel (Taj Mahal Palace) and India Gate (India Gate) are among the most famous attractions - small architectural pearls add an indescribable charm to the overall architectural style, to the delight of all visitors to the city.

Mumbai is a wonderful mixture of dreamers and workaholics, actors and gangsters, stray dogs and exotic birds, artists and servants, fishermen and crorepatis. (millionaires) and much more. The dilapidated architectural structures indicate that Mumbai once played a more important role in the world, which is reminiscent of the entire brick and mortar museum. Only one thing is certain: this city on the world map will always be synonymous with creative disorder!

For anyone who came to Mumbai not on business, three, maximum four days should be enough to get a fairly complete idea of ​​this, so to speak, exhausting city. At the start of your stay, you may need some advice on what to see in the city, which stretches 20 km from north to south. Then contact the Indian Tourism Bureau (India Tourism Office), located opposite Churchgate railway station (Churchgate). Then start from the same spot that King George V and Queen Mary did when they visited in 1911, the headland at the end of Apollo Quay. Today this site is home to the world famous India Gate. (Gateway of India), a monument moving more for its symbolism than for its beauty (depending on what you think of the magnificence of the British Empire in whose honor it was erected, of course). In his "Ballad of East and West," Rudyard Kipling insisted that "the two shall never meet," but the British did their best to achieve this by installing the four domes characteristic of the Romanesque style on this triumphal arch. architecture of Gujarat. This monument was unveiled in 1924. 24 years later, the Somerset Light Infantry, the last British units to leave India, triumphantly passed through the India Gate.

Today the arch is a favorite meeting place for local residents and those who like to watch what is happening around them. Sellers of giant balloons, photographers, beggars and barkers along with Indian and foreign tourists create the hubbub of the bazaar. Boats depart from piers to Elephanta and Mandwa islands.

An Indian equestrian statue of Shivaji faces the gate. It was installed in 1961 in honor of this Maratha hero - a Hindu nationalist - a fighter against Mughal oppression.

Behind the statue is the Taj Mahal Hotel. (Taj Mahal Hotel), built by a member of the Tatas family, an industrialist of Persian origin. They say that this idea came to him when they refused to let him into Watson's. best hotel in the city. From an architectural point of view, the hotel is a combination of Western and Eastern styles. You will feel the atmosphere of bygone romance when you settle down in the Marine Hall to drink a cup of tea. Apart from a memorial to the 31 people who died here, there is no trace of the destruction that occurred here in November 2008, when Islamic terrorists targeted the hotel in an attack on the city's main tourist and business district.

Raj District

To the northwest of the Taj Mahal Hotel, in the area around the Maidan that was the heart of British Mumbai, a connoisseur can appreciate architecture that its admirer will call "eclectic" and its opponent will call "wacky."

The building of the old Secretariat is attributed mainly to the Venetian Gothic style; the university library - to French Gothic; the telegraph building - to the Romanesque style; building Supreme Court and St. Thomas's Cathedral - to the Early English style. The architects were British, but the builders and decorators were Indian, and they were adept at adding details reminiscent of Rajput fortresses or Mughal palaces.

The influence of the national style is felt in the octagonal spire of the Rajabai clock tower on the university building (Rajabai Clocktower). It is decorated with 24 figures representing the castes of the former Bombay district, of which it was the capital. At St. Thomas' Cathedral, even ardent opponents of imperialism can be moved by some of the heart-warming epitaphs of those who died in military or civilian service for their country. For fans of the period of British rule in India, Victoria Station is a great example of the Indian Gothic style. (Victoria Terminus). Previously it was abbreviated as VT, and now - CST (Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus). Impressive, opulent and always busy, the building is considered the most extravagant example of Gothic architecture in the city, the beating heart of its railway network and an example of colonial Indian architecture. As historian Christopher London put it, “Victoria Station was to British power what the Taj Mahal was to the Mughal Empire.” It is a combination of Victorian, Hindu and Islamic styles, with buttresses, domes, turrets, spiers and stained glass windows.

Opened on Jubilee Day in 1857, it served as the starting point for India's first railway, and a symbol of everything that the British had achieved by that time in the Indian subcontinent; a symbol of their pride, power and seemingly limitless potential.

North-west of Victoria Station is bustling Crawford Market (Crawford Market), who after independence became known as Mahatma Jyotiba Phule (Mahatma Jyotiba Phule). Behind the brick façade with gates whose friezes are decorated with bas-reliefs made by Kipling's father, the stalls retain their original location: vegetables - to the left; fruits and flowers - to the right; fish, lamb and poultry are right up front.

Uptown

Beyond Crawford Market lies the heart of Mumbai, where Indians from all over the country compete with bustling Maharashtra traders in the bazaars. (Mumbai is its capital). Among the colorful Hindu temples and mosques in the Muslim quarters located nearby, Jain traders sell gold in Zaveri Bazaar, and on other streets they sell silver, brass, copper, leather and lace.

Another famous landmark of the city is Marine Drive. (Marine Drive), which starts from Nariman Point and reaches the Malabar Hill residential area (Malabar Hill), skirting the Back Bay. A must-see place is Chowpatty Beach, not because you can sunbathe and swim there, but because it is one of the most extensive places in Western India where you can watch people: fakirs walk on fire, sleep on nails, walk on ropes or bury their head in the sand; Food vendors offer kulfi ice cream, as well as betel nut and belpuri, local spices.

Museums

Chhatrapati Shivaji Museum (Chatrapati Shivaji Museum)- formerly known as the Prince of Wales Museum - is located at the end of the Mahatma Gandhi Road. It was built in 1871. The building incorporates elements of medieval Gujarati and Bijapur architecture, as well as the urban architecture of Manchester. It houses a collection of miniatures and valuable sculptures from the 7th century. from the caves of Elephanta Island. At the nearby Jahandir Art Gallery (Jehangir Art Gallery) works illustrating modern trends in Indian painting are presented.

Bollywood

Mumbai is the glittering center of India's giant Hindi film industry. Starting with silent films with exclusively male actors (some dressed as women)– the 1913 epic “Raja Harischandra” – and the first sound film “Lama Aga” (1931) , it now produces more than 1,000 films a year: more than Hollywood. Not surprising when one remembers that Bollywood is supported by an audience of one-sixth of the world's population, plus significant Indian communities abroad.

Every part of India has its own regional film studios, but Bollywood continues to represent the nation in its most colorful form: constantly singing and dancing lovers fighting for love and resisting the forces that try to tear them apart. Nowadays, pro-Hollywood thrillers and blockbusters on TV compete for the attention of moviegoers with the usual sugary films that are more family-oriented.

Bollywood stars in India can achieve almost god-like status, and discussion of stars has become a favorite pastime in Mumbai establishments.

Studios sometimes invite Western actors (or use provocative outfits), to add a European slant to the film. The trend has grown so strong that 100,000 young actors went on strike in 2008 to protest job losses due to foreigners working for less money.

If you're interested in such an adventure, just take a walk around Colaba, where studios are recruiting people for the next day's shoot. Day of work 500 rupees. You will receive lunch and something to snack on if filming starts early or ends late. Transport is usually 2nd class trains unless there are enough tourists to hire private transport. A shooting day can last quite a long time, in addition, you should take into account the heat and stress; Not everyone is happy with the experience. Sometimes people complain because of lack of food and water or because of dangerous situations and intimidation, but the guest Western actors do not complain about this. Some people find this experience fascinating. Always ask for recruiter identification before agreeing and listen to your gut!

Mumbai: a foodie's paradise

In Mumbai you can find culinary masterpieces not only from all over India, but also from all over the world. Don't hold yourself back, because you definitely have to try Parsi dhansak (meat with seasonings, lentils and rice), Gujarati or Kerala thali (a set of dishes from the “eat as much as you like” series), kebab from Mughal cuisine, Goan and Mangalorean seafood. And don't forget: if the menu says Bombay duck, what it really means is bombil fish, sun-dried and deep-fried.

It is very important to visit the famous Mumbai beach and visit one of the bhelpuris located at Girga um Chowpatty where you can enjoy the taste of crispy fried thin flatbreads with steamed rice, lentils, lemon juice, onions, herbs, red chillies and tamarind chutney. Other establishments offer rice dishes, samosas, pav bhaji (vegetables with seasonings and bread) and vada pav (deeply fried lentil sandwich with seasonings)– so it’s better to find time for everything.

Mumbai festival

In January, the Mumbai Festival takes place, on this day stages are organized throughout the city, food is offered, and dancing takes place. This celebration showcases the cultural diversity in Mumbai in all its glory.

Dharavi slums

Mumbai residents have mixed feelings about the 2008 hit, Slumdog Millionaire. (in Hindi - "Slumdog Crorepati"). But slums are part, many would say core, of urban life in Mumbai. Surprisingly, 55% of the population of Mumbai lives in slums and one of the largest slum areas in Mumbai (and in Asia for that matter)- This is Dharavi. Initially, the territory inhabited by fishermen consisted of only streams, swamps and islands. It became attractive to migrant workers from South Mumbai and beyond and the wetlands began to be inhabited for natural and man-made reasons. The area currently spans 1.75 km between Mumbai's two main railway lines and is home to over a million people.

Although it may look a little chaotic, this city-within-a-city's labyrinth of dusty alleys and sewer streets is actually a collection of adjacent settlements. Some parts of Dharavi have a mixed population of people from different parts of India and different professions who have built their own houses and tiny factories. Saurashtra potters live in one area, Muslim tanners in another; Embroidery experts from Uttar Pradesh work side by side with blacksmiths, workers recycle plastic, and nearby women dry pappadams under the scorching sun. Some of these enterprises, about 10,000 in total, sell goods for export, and Dhavari's annual turnover is no less than $665 million.

Life in the slums of Mumbai is no different if you take a closer look. Residents pay rent, most houses have kitchens and electricity, and building materials range from corrugated iron to multi-story concrete structures. Many families have lived here for generations, and some of Dhavari's younger residents even work in offices. But often they decide to stay in the areas where they grew up.

Slum tourism is quite a controversial topic, so you'll have to decide for yourself. If you decide to visit the slums, Reality Tours & Travel can offer you an exciting trip and a percentage of the profits goes back to Dhavari to establish community centers and schools. Some tourists decide to visit this area of ​​​​Mumbai on their own - this is normal, just do without a camera. Take the train from Churchgate station towards Mahim (12 rupees), exit on the west side, then cross the bridge to Dhavari.

Legendary wadi (village) is a bastion of life in Mumbai as it existed before the rise of skyscrapers. A Christian enclave of elegant two-storey wooden mansions is located 500 meters northeast of Girguam Chowpatty, adjacent to the Indian and Muslim areas of Mumbai. These windy streets offer views of the quiet quiet life, no cars or autorickshaws. The village is small in every sense, but you can admire these mesmerizing alleys for hours and, what is most amazing, all this is one step away from the hustle and bustle of real Mumbai.

To find the village, go to St. Teresa's Church (St Teresa's Church) at the corner of Jagannath Shankarsheth Marg (JS Marg) and R. R. Roy Marg (Charni Ra), and then turn your back to the church and walk along JS Marg until you duck into the second or third lane on the left.

Entertainment

Mid-Day's daily English summary includes information on top things to do in Mumbai. Newspapers and Time Out Mumbai provide listings of events and film screenings, and www.nh7.in provides live music ratings. Modern project Bombay Elektrik Projekt (www.bombayelektrik.com) organizes any event, from DJs and poetry evenings to short film screenings.

It would be a crime not to go to the cinema in the capital of the Indian film industry. Unfortunately, Indian films are shown without English subtitles. The cinemas listed here show English films and a few Bollywood films.

The busiest club nights (oddly enough) on Wednesday, as well as on the more familiar Friday and Saturday; Entrance is usually paid. Clubs have a dress code, so don't wear shorts and sandals. Recently, resto-lounges are fashionable in Mumbai, as opposed to packed nightclubs - high taxes on discos (which do not apply to lounges and restaurants) made people smarter.

Where to eat

In this gastronomic epicenter, a cornucopia of flavors from across India collide with international trends. Colaba has most of the cheap eateries for tourists, while Fort and Churchgate have better quality restaurants. This trend continues as you move further north towards Mahalaxmi and the Central Suburbs, home to some of the most amazing, upscale and expensive restaurants in Mumbai.

For those who like to cook themselves, the Colaba market is open in Mumbai (Lala Nigam St). Fresh fruits and vegetables are sold here. Good choice products in supermarkets Saharkari Bhandar Supermarket (22022248; intersection of Colaba, Colaba and Wodehouse Rd; 10.00-20.30) and Suryodaya (22040979; Veer Nariman Rd; 7.30-20.30); the second one is even better.

Alcohol

Mumbai is quite alcohol-conscious, which means there are plenty of places that sell alcohol, from garage-style speakeasies and eye-popping lounges to brash, multi-level superclubs; but don’t be surprised when you find a 25% tax on alcoholic beverages added to your bill.

Shopping

Mumbai is the largest market in India, making it the best shopping experience in the country.

Anything can be bought at the bustling bazaars north of CST. The main shopping platforms in Mumbai are Crawford Market , Mangaldas Market (silk and clothing) Zaveri Bazaar (decorations), Bhuleshwar Market (fruits and vegetarian products) and Chor Bazaar (antiques and furniture). Dhabu St is the place to shop for leather goods, while Mutton St is for antiques, prints and cute trinkets. Crawford Market (Mahatma Phule Market) is the last outpost of British Bombay, beyond which the noise and cries of the central bazaars begin. Bas-reliefs of Rudyard Kipling's father (Rudyard Kipling), Lockwood Kipling (Lockwood Kipling), decorate the buildings of Norman-Gothic architecture.

Experience the bustling shopping scene on Fashion Street (Fashion Street)– the strip of shops along MG Rd, between Cross Maidan and Azad Maidan, or in Bangra on Linking Rd, near Waterfield Rd – hone your bargaining skills. Kemp's Corner has a lot of good designer shops.

Many government-owned malls in Mumbai sell handicrafts at the World Trade Center Arcade near Cuffe Parade. Small rare and antique shops line Merewether Rd behind the Taj Mahal Palace. It's not cheap here, but the quality makes itself felt - it is an order of magnitude higher than in state shopping centers. If you like colonial items, head to Chor Bazaar: the busiest street is Mutton St, where you can find many antique shops (and lots of inventive fakes too, so be on the lookout) and various junk.

Food hawkers in Mumbai (Dabba Walla)

A small miracle of logistics - 5,000 food delivery people or, as they are called, dabba-wallahs (dabba means container of food; there are also tiffin-wallahs, tiffin-wallahs) in Mumbai, they tirelessly deliver hot lunches to office workers across the city.

Lunch boxes are picked up each time from homes and restaurants and delivered by heads, bicycles and trains to a central marshalling yard. A complex system of numbers and colors (many delivery men are illiterate) indicates where the lunch should be delivered. They deliver over 200,000 meals every day - always on time, despite... (monsoon) rain or (scorching) Sun.

This system has been used for centuries and on average there is only one error per six million deliveries. No wonder the dabba wallas take great pride in their work.

Great Wall of Mumbai

This art initiative is somewhat reminiscent of the East Side Gallery in Berlin (even though Mumbai didn't have 28 years of oppression and exclusion). Wall Project (www.thewallproject.com) started with a few graduate art and design students who decided to paint the walls of nearby houses with local designs and artistic graffiti. Soon this idea turned into a public project, thanks to which the walls of every building on the outskirts of Bandra, from residential to hospitals, exploded with colorful drawings. The number of drawings began to increase like weeds and soon, dilapidated buildings and abandoned walls turned into a real museum of modern urban art. At the time of writing this article, hundreds of artists (and just lovers) have already drawn more than 600 drawings, the longest strip of which began from Mahim station (West) on Tulsi Pipe Rd (Senapati Bapat Marg) and along Western Railway to Matunga Rd stop. They call her Great Wall Mumbai.

Anyone can post their drawing here as long as it does not have a literal sexual, political, religious or commercial message. Get yourself some acrylic tempera - this is the best paint to use due to harsh weather conditions - and start creating!

Transport in Mumbai

To/from airports

International airport:

Kiosk pre-order taxi is located near the international airport. Here you can hire a taxi at fixed prices to any area of ​​the city; Colaba, Fort and Marine Drive are priced with/without AC Rs 495/395, Bandra West Rs 310/260 and Juhu Rs 235/190. In addition, the service fee is 10 rupees and for each piece of luggage 10 rupees. They will take you to Colaba in 45 minutes at night and 1.5-2 hours during the day. No tip required.

You can find auto-rickshaws near the arrival terminal, but don't try to take them to the southern part of Mumbai: auto-rickshaws can only take you as far as Mahim Creek. You can go by autorickshaw (approximately 40 rupees) to Andheri railway station and change to commuter train (7 rupees, 45 minutes) to Churchgate Station or CST. Such a trip only makes sense if you arrive during the day and not during rush hour (6.00-11.00) , and also without heavy luggage.

Minibuses near the arrivals gate provide free transport to the airport where departures take place. domestic flights, as well as to hotels in Juhu.

A taxi from south Mumbai to the international airport will cost 350-400 rupees if you haggle well; The official baggage fee is 10 rupees per piece. From midnight to 5 am – plus 25% to the cost. We really liked the old black and yellow taxis, but Meru also offers good taxis with air conditioning and a meter (44224422; www.merucabs.com). Price 20 rupees for the first km and 14 rupees for all subsequent ones (25% more expensive at night). The route is determined by GPS, so you won't be deceived!

Domestic airport:

Autorickshaws and taxis are available near all domestic terminals. You can pre-order a car right next to the arrival gate. A taxi without/with air conditioning to Colaba or Fort costs 350/400 at any time of the day, plus 10 rupees for luggage. To Juhu – 150/200 rupees.

A cheaper alternative is an auto rickshaw from the airport to Vile Parle railway station (20-30 rupees), and from here the train to Churchgate (7 rupees, 45 minutes). Don't even try to drive this way during rush hour. (6-11 hours).

Boat

In PNP (22885220) and Maldar Catamarans (22829695) there are regular boats to Mandwa island (one way 110 rupees). From here you can get to Murud-Janjira and other parts of the Konkan coast without having to sit on a bus for long. The ticket office is located at the Apollo pier (Apollo Bunder; near Gateway of India).

Bus

Single and double decker buses in Mumbai are a good choice for short distance travel. The price in south Mumbai is 3 rupees per stop; Pay the conductor upon entry. This service is provided by BEST (www.bestundertaking.com), with garage in Colaba (on the website you can search for bus routes around the city). To see south Mumbai on the cheap, just hop on a double-decker bus (for example, bus 103). A day pass costs 25 rupees.

Car

Cars are usually rented by the day (maximum eight hours and 80 km). If you exceed the allowed limit, you will have to pay extra. The best price for a car with air conditioning is approximately 1000 rupees.

An agent at the tent counter at Apollo Jetty near the Gateway of India can arrange a Maruti with driver, but without air conditioning, for a half-day excursion for Rs 1,000 (you will have time to reach Mahalakshmi and Malabar Hill). Ordinary taxi drivers often also agree to this price.

Metro

The Mumbai metro project, which cost US$8.17 billion, was never completed. The Colaba-Bandra-Airport line would be very useful for tourists, but it will take a few more years to complete.

Motorbike

Allibhai Premji Tyrewalla (www.premjis.com; 205/207 Dr D Bhadkamkar Rd; 10.00-19.00 Mon-Sat) has been selling new and used motorcycles for about a century, with a guaranteed return option when you no longer need it. If you want to rent a bike for two or three weeks, you will still have to pay full price for it. The company prefers long-term deals of two months or more. In any case it turns out cheaper. Used Hero Honda Karizma 150cc. cm or 225 cc. cm costs from 725,000 to 780,000, and they will buy it back from you for about 60% in three months (sometimes you come across Enfields with a larger engine capacity). Smaller bike (100-180 cc) you can take from 725,000. The company can arrange for the motorcycle to be sent abroad by sea (about 724,000 to UK).

Taxis and autorickshaws

It seems like every second car in Mumbai is a yellow and black Premier taxi (Indian version of Fiat from the 1950s). A car is the most convenient way to get around the city, and in southern Mumbai, drivers almost always calculate the correct fare from the meter. Autorickshaws are only available on the northern outskirts of Mahim Creek.

Not all drivers know the names of city streets (especially new ones), so it's best to use some landmarks to explain where you want to go. In 2010, fares were increased, and now the meter starts running from 16 rupees during the day (20 rupees after midnight) for the first 1.6 km and then 10 rupees per kilometer (12 rupees after midnight). The minimum cost of an autorickshaw is 11 rupees.

Let's not point fingers, but Mumbaikar taxis and autorickshaws may profit from foreigners from time to time. Rickshaws and taxi drivers who use old meters may try to deceive you. (fixed on the outside left). The cost of a taxi with the old meter will be approximately 16 times higher than indicated. To prevent this from happening, print out a convenient tariff converter, it can be obtained from the Mumbai Traffic Police (www.trafficpolicemumbai.org/Tariffcard_Auto_taxiJorm.htm)- that's the whole conversation (until next time).

Train

Mumbai has a good but crowded local train network.

There are three main lines, so it's pretty easy to figure out. The most useful direction is from Churchgate north to Charni Rd stations (for transfer to Girgaum Chowpatty), Mumbai Central, Mahalaxmi (for transfer to Dhobi Ghat), Vile Parle (for domestic flights) Andheri (for international flights) and Borivali (for Sanjay Gandhi National Park). Other suburban lines connect CST and Bycullu (for Veermata Jijabai Bhonsle Udyan, former Victoria Gardens), Dadar and Neral (for Matheran). Trains run from 4.00 to 1.00. Ticket price from Churchgate, 2nd/1st class 4/41 to Mumbai Central, 77/78 to Vile Parle or Andheri and 79/104 to Borivali.

Neighborhoods of Mumbai

Elephanta Island

From Mumbai you can take a pleasant boat tour to the 7th century temple caves. on Elephanta Island. A ferry goes there from the Apollo embankment. Known as Gharapuri, the Holy City of Kings, the island was named Elephanta by Portuguese sailors. Although their muskets damaged many of the sculptures of the gods in the caves, enough of them remained to warrant a stop on the island. Carved into the rocky hills in the center of the island, the caves contain some of the finest examples of ancient Indian sculpture, including the famous image of the Trimurti, the three-headed Shiva whose imposing profile has become almost as recognizable a symbol of India as the Taj Mahal.

Known as "Maheshmurti", the panel occupies the wall of one of the most large caves in the complex. Although there is some disagreement as to the date of creation of this magnificent relief, scholars are unanimous in the opinion that it is an outstanding work of Indian sculpture: there is no other in the entire Indian subcontinent ancient statue, from which would emanate a living feeling of such strength and serenity. On both sides there are impressive bas-reliefs depicting mythological scenes. The main entrance to the cave is guarded by a terrifying-looking multi-armed deity (dvarapala) A fawn in Sanjay Gandhi Park comes to the boy every day for food.

It's hard to believe that just 1.5 hours from the crowded metropolis there is a protected rainforest with an area of ​​104 square meters. km. (28866449; adult/child 30/15, transport on two wheels/four wheels 15/50 rupees; 7.30-18.00). Here, instead of the pollution and crowds typical of Mumbai, you will see vibrant flora, birds, butterflies and the elusive leopards surrounded by forested mountains on the northern outskirts of the city. Urbanization and urban shacks try to squeeze into this wilderness, but thanks to its national park status, the forest remains green and quiet.

To escape for a day from the mind-blowing Mumbai, you can choose good trodden paths to the Shilonda Falls (Shilonda) and lakes Vihar and Tulsi (Vihar and Tulsi), safari in search of lions and tigers, as well as Kanheri caves (Kanheri)

Best time to arrive

From October to March.

Hotel deals

Road to Mumbai and back

Airplane

Mumbai is the main international gateway to south India and is also the busiest domestic airport. Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (Chhatrapa-ti Shivaji International Airport; domestic flights 26264000, international flights 26813000; www.csia.in), is located approximately 30 km from the city center. Since 2006, it has been modernized to the tune of $2 billion. At the time of writing, the airport had three domestic (1A, 1B and 1C) and one international terminal (2A). The airport terminal for domestic flights, known as Santa Cruz Airport, is accessible through Vile Parle and international airport is located four km on Andheri and is called Sahar among the locals. Both terminals have ATMs, currency exchange and tourist information booths. A free shuttle between airports runs every half hour; To get into it, you need to have a plane ticket. By 2014, the shiny new terminal T2 will be ready, which will serve both domestic and international flights, and Santa Cruz will become a cargo airport.

International airlines:

It is best to book a ticket through a travel agency or the Internet, because even in offices you are constantly redirected to call centers.

The following airlines have offices in Mumbai:

• Air India (27580777, airport 26156633; www.airindia.com; Air India building, corner Marine Dr and Madame Kama Rd, Nariman Point; 9.15-18.30 Mon-Fri, until 17.15 Sat and Sun)
• Cathay Pacific (66572222, Airport 66859002/3; www.cathaypacific.com; 2 Brady Gladys Plaza, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel; 9.30-18.30 Mon-Sat)
• Emirates Airlines (40974097; www.emirates.com; 3 Mittal Chambers, 228 Nariman Point; 9.00-17.30 Mon-Sat)
• El Al Airlines (66207400, airport 66859425/6; www.elal.co.il; 7th floor, NKM International House, VM Chinai Marg, Nariman Point; 9.30-17.30 Mon-Fri, until 13.00 Sat)
• Qantas (61111818; www.qantas.com.au; 5th floor, Sunteck Centre, 37-40 Subhash Rd, Vile Parle; 9.00-13.15 and 14.30-17.30 Mon-Fri)
• Swiss (67137240; www.swiss.com; 3rd floor, Vashani Chambers, New Marine Ln, 9; 9.00-17.30 Mon-Sat)
• Thai Airways (61395599; www.thaiair.com; 2A Mittal Towers Wing A, Nariman Point 9.30-17.30 Mon-Fri, until 16 Sat)

Domestic airlines:

• GoAir (call center 1800 222111, airport 26264/89; www.goair.in)
• Indian Airlines (22023031, call center 1800 1801407; www.indianairlines.nic.in; Air India building, corner Marine Dr and Madame Kama Rd, Nariman Point)
• IndiGo (call center 18001803838; www.goindigo.in)
• Jet Airways (call center 39893333, airport 26266575; www.jetairways.com; Amarchand Mansion, Madame Kama Rd; 9.30-18.00 Mon-Fri, until 13.00 Sat)
• JetLite (call center 1800 225522; www.jetlite.com)
• Kingfisher/Kingfisher Red (call center 1800 2331310, airport 26262605; www.flykingfisher.com; Nirmal building, Marine Dr, Nariman Point; 9.00-19.00 Mon-Sat, 10.00-14.00 Sun)

  Buses of private companies are, as a rule, more comfortable and easier to book a ticket for, but they cost an order of magnitude more than public ones; Departure from Dr Anadrao Nair Rd near Central Railway Station, Mumbai. Prices for popular destinations (eg Goa) in high season they increase to 75%. To find out the departure time and current prices, contact National STS (23015652; Dr Anadrao Nair Rd; 7.00-22.00).

  
  

  In Goa and others southern cities It is more convenient to travel by Chandni Travels buses (22713901) which depart three times a day from Azad Maidan (Azad Maidan), south of the Metro Cinema. Ticket agents are located near the departure point.

  State buses long distance depart from the Central Bus Station in Mumbai (Mumbai Central bus terminal; 23074272/1524) near Mumbai Central Railway Station. Buses operate to major cities of Maharashtra and neighboring states. They are cheaper and more frequent than private buses, but the quality of service and the number of people can vary greatly.

  Train

  There are three in Mumbai railway lines However, the best service is offered by Central Railways and Western Railways.

  
  

  A ticket for any destination can be purchased at any station in south Mumbai or suburbs where computerized ticket counters are located. In Central Railways (134) there are eastbound, southbound, and some northbound trains from CST. Pre-checkout (139; 8.00-20.00 Mon-Sat, until 14.00 Sun) located near the taxi stand on CST. Tickets at prices for foreigners (tourist-quota tickets; window 52) can be purchased 90 days before travel, but must be paid in foreign currency or rupees with a receipt from a bank or ATM. Indrail travel passes can be purchased at window 52. You can buy tickets at regular prices using Visa or MasterCard at more convenient and faster ticket offices that accept credit cards (10 and 11) for an additional 30 rupees. Ticket refunds for Indians and foreigners are made at window 8.

  Some Central Railways trains depart from Dadar station (D)- a few stops north from CST or from Churchgate / (Lokmanya Tilak; T) 16km north of CST.

  At Western Railways (131,132) trains go north (including to Rajasthan and Delhi) from Mumbai Central station (Mumbai Central (MC); 23061763, 23073535) which is commonly called Bombay Central (Bombay Central; VST). Pre-checkout (8.00-20.00 Mon-Sat, until 14.00 Sun), located opposite Churchgate railway station, here you can buy a ticket under the tourist quota (window 14). Same rules as DXI (CST). Credit cards accepted at window No. 6.

  Calendar of low prices for air tickets

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