Sicily route through the most beautiful places. By car in Sicily on your own. Sicily - what to see by car

As a traveler, Sicily attracted me primarily as the land of ancient civilizations; on a small island in the Mediterranean Sea, the cultures of the Greeks, Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans and other peoples converged in Antiquity; here, already in the Middle Ages, the Normans ruled and there was their own Kingdom of Sicily, constantly Moors and North African peoples invaded. Worth noting are the beautiful Sicilian beaches, excellent climate and great prospects for recreation. But Sicily is far from Italy, there are a lot of tourists here, but there is no developed infrastructure and good service, like, say, in the north of the Apennines. You have to get used to a lot, adapt to something and take everything into account.

// think-head.livejournal.com

Movement. You can arrive to the island by ferry, by plane and even by train. Special ferries transport railway carriages across the Strait of Messina, which separates Sicily and mainland Italy. You can get to Sicily by ferry from the port near Rome, from Corsica, Tunisia and Malta. Although such ferries do not operate often. Planes fly into Catania and Palermo airports.

There is a railway connection on the island, but trains run relatively rarely, and only the main cities are connected by road. Many places can only be reached by road, so I recommend renting a car. You can read about the features of traveling around Sicily by car.

Cities. If you are going for the history and culture of the region, I recommend visiting Catania, Palermo, Syracuse and Taormina. There is a lot to see in these cities. Quite nice and attractive towns on the hills are Enna and Ragusa, but there is nothing special to see there, just take a walk and appreciate the views. There is nothing to do in Messina and Agrigento. Outside the cities, I can mention the Valley of the Temples a couple of kilometers from Agrigento, the ancient city of Morgantina - not far from Enna, Villa Romano 4 km from Piazza Armerina, Ancient city Segesta - on the road between Palermo and Trapani, Cefalu - near Palermo, and Monreale - a suburb of Palermo. I did not visit the western and southwestern parts of the island; there is almost nothing interesting there. To relax on the beach, tourists choose Taormina and Terrasini, although almost the entire coastline is suitable for this.

Crime. Sicily is often associated with the mafia and crime. I thought about the same thing. There is a mafia in Sicily, you can read about it, but you definitely won’t see a living mafioso. But you may encounter crime. Here you need to be careful, access to valuable things and money needs to be made as difficult as possible. Besides local residents They are not distinguished by honesty, they are quite capable of deceiving and downright “divorcing”. Be careful, although I personally have not encountered any serious problems other than being deceived at the rental office.

Museums and attractions. The cost of visiting most museums and attractions is 10 euros per person. Discounts are offered for students; documents are not checked here. There is no need to apply for ISIC to travel here. But be careful, not everywhere where there is an entrance fee there is something to see. In Palermo, for example, they like to charge money for visiting temples that are not worth it. In places where there are guides, one of them will definitely cling to you, who will tell you something in broken English or even in Italian. Attractions usually close early; in winter it is daylight.

Products. There are usually no problems with shops. There are a couple in the city center, but large hypermarkets like Auchan are only available at the exit from the city. Usually the exit from the highway to such a hypermarket is indicated by a sign - “Zona Commerciale”. There are many grocery stores around Palermo, there is one Auchan near Catania airport and a real Mecca shopping centers is the area of ​​Modica and Ispica. By the way, prices are somewhat lower than in mainland Italy.

Along highways and major roads, local farmers often sell oranges, strawberries and other agricultural products. Small wholesale is accepted here, but the prices are significantly lower than store-bought ones.

The most common souvenirs offered here are local hand-painted ceramics. It’s beautiful, but expensive, and thousands of such things are produced.

I didn’t see any opportunities for any serious shopping in Sicily.

Credit cards are almost never used on the island; they say that scammers easily gain access to them.

Local products. The region is famous for its oranges and tangerines, which grow at every turn. It is useless to pick them from trees; they are inedible. Some degenerate because the fruits are not harvested, and some are planted for decorative purposes. Another local delicacy is cactus flowers. Cacti with delicious flowers (more like cone fruits) grow everywhere. It's funny, but I haven't seen a single store in Sicily that sells them, but in northern Italy and other European countries there are plenty. Therefore, you can pick the flowers yourself. They taste like passion fruit, pear and dragon fruit. But there is a peculiarity here. There are a lot of spines on the flowers, as well as on the cacti themselves...if you pick the fruit with your hand, be sure that your entire hand will be covered with small spines that will quickly penetrate the skin. You have to pick it with a glove or something like that, but you can only eat the core.

The region is also rich in almonds and pistachios, although they are more expensive than Iranian or Turkish ones, but here they make a lot of things - for example, sweet cream, nuts are added to pesto sauce, added to pasta, etc.

Sicily has a lot of its own cheeses, with the addition of the same pistachios, for example.

And local sweets are mainly variations of common Italian delicacies.

The most common meat is lamb, of which there are many herds in mountainous area. The island cannot live without fish either; you can buy it at a particularly good price at local markets, but in restaurants it will be expensive.

Weather. In winter in Sicily it was from 15 to 22 degrees. In summer, as you can imagine, it is hot here. However, it is worth taking a jacket; strong winds blow in mountainous areas.

It is useless to contact tourist offices in Sicily. This area is not developed here. Locals say that they recruit unemployed people there; there is no question of language skills. Here you can be given a map of the city and that’s all. The employees have no desire to explain or tell anything. They won't answer you by email either. I found the only help desk option in Sicily - this is a private tourist office http://www.visitingsicily.it/ and visitpalermo.it There are only a few employees in the office, but they answer emails within an hour and even at night. Here they will help you with information and give advice absolutely free of charge; all employees speak excellent English. Also through this office you can rent a car, apartments in Sicily, book excursions, gastronomic tours etc. I compared prices - it turned out profitable and without the risk of being deceived.

Sicily is an amazing and original place, ancient history, gorgeous Etna, gentle sea and simply breathtaking views and landscapes. It’s worth coming here and trying to feel its special flavor.

think_head
18/10/2016 12:00

The opinions of tourists may not coincide with the opinions of the editors.

In Sicily, parking is the same as in all of Europe - by ear and a broken bumper is not considered damage.

So, let's go. Before the trip, I read on the Internet that Italians generally drive on the roads “without a tower”, as God bestows on them and by following the rules traffic don't bother too much. I even remember this phrase: anyone who has driven around Moscow will not be surprised by such behavior on Italian roads. In reality, everything turned out differently. I think that if an Italian were launched onto Moscow roads, he would definitely go nuts. Yes, in Sicily they don’t really follow traffic rules, but they do it all delicately, without arrogance or rudeness. No one cuts anyone off or climbs into the gap. If someone is hesitant or stupid somewhere, everyone will wait patiently until you figure out what’s what. For example, somewhere in a village or town a driver on a narrow street stands in the middle of the road and goes to say hello to a friend, this does not annoy anyone, such behavior is considered to be in the order of things. In general, Italians by nature don’t give a damn, they are in no hurry and don’t rush ahead.

Road to Mount Etna.

Sicilian serpentine.

The roads in Sicily are very good, especially the toll highways, the traffic is not intense, there are not many cars. The toll for traveling along them is meager, about 1-1.5 euros for a section of 15-20 km. Upon entry to paid section In front of the barrier you need to press the red button and a ticket will come out.

Entrance to the toll highway. If it says “Telepass” at the top, you don’t need to go there.

When exiting the autobahn, you give this receipt to the lady at the booth and she announces the amount of payment, for example, 1 euro. Everything is very simple. If you are not used to it, mountain serpentines can lead you into a stupor. But when you drive onto such a winding path, you realize that there is no way back and you still have to go. And you go and feel like a real Sicilian. Before the Sicilian roads, I was sure that I had seen enough serpentines, but I definitely had not seen anything like here. But, you get used to them quickly and traveling around Sicily by car becomes not so scary. On sharp turns, convex mirrors are installed and a hidden section of the road is visible; besides, it is advisable to beep a little before such a bend so that an oncoming car, if there is one, will pay attention to you. In some towns and villages there are streets so narrow that it seems that physically two cars cannot pass each other, but by some miracle you can pass each other within almost half a millimeter and, moreover, without consequences.
We have been traveling around Europe for many years and always without a navigator. This time I decided to use it to find out what it looks like. Actually, I didn’t have a navigator; I had (and still have) an LG P-500 phone with a built-in navigator. Before the trip, I downloaded the Novitel map of Italy. It would have been entirely possible to get by in Sicily without a navigator, but I felt the difference immediately, especially in the cities. The girl Marina, using the navigator, confidently paved the way and promptly suggested turning into the right place. It punctured only in one place, when we passed the village we needed. At that moment, when we were rushing along the concrete overpass above the village we needed, Marina said in a confident voice that the goal of the trip had been achieved. In principle, she was right, we were indeed in the settlement we needed, but only at an altitude of a couple of tens of meters above it. As a result, I had to drive another seven kilometers to the exit from the toll overpass and turn back to get to the right place.
In Sicily, most parking lots are paid. There are three types. Parking spaces marked in blue are always paid. If you see such a blue square on the road near the sidewalk, you can safely park, but at the same time immediately look for a parking meter nearby, more on that below. The parking space marked in white belongs to residents, i.e. for those who live nearby or have a special parking “check”. You should not park in such places, otherwise you will receive a fine under glass for violating parking rules in Sicily.

The policewoman issues a fine.

Even in small towns and villages, we saw police aunties confidently writing out such reports and slipping them under the windshield wipers of cars. And the third type of parking is indicated in yellow. These are places for the disabled, ambulances or other municipal services. You will also receive a fine for parking in such places. Well, of course, you can park on the streets wherever there are no markings or prohibiting signs, parking or stopping is prohibited. Thus, take a closer look at your future parking spot, look for a blue sign with the letter “P”.

The fine receipt is placed on the windshield.

Parking receipt for residents.

Paid parking markings.

To pay for parking in Sicily through a parking meter, you need to insert a coin into a special slot at the rate of 1 euro per hour (at different cities price varies). The expiration time of your paid parking will appear on the screen. For example, you throw one euro at 17.00. The date and time 18.00 is displayed on the screen. Add another 1 euro and the time changes to 19.00. Then press the “enter” button and in response, a ticket with the indicated parking end time will crawl out of another slot. This ticket must be placed under the windshield. These parking meters only accept coins, so it is advisable to stock up on about 10-15 euros in change in advance. It will also be useful for you to pay for travel on toll highways.

Parking machine.

At the time when I decided to write a guide for those planning a trip to Sicily, I had visited this island of wonders almost 5 times. How can you fly to the same place every year, you ask? Easily! If we are talking about Sicily. Even for the fifth time, I discovered a lot of new things and spent an unforgettable 7 days, unlike all the previous 4 trips.

This island smells of history. Each stone has absorbed several centuries of intense events that unfolded on the territory of Sicily. Beach holidays fade into the background here, because it is simply impossible not to visit the ancient excavations. And there are many of them here. So many! So I finish the foreplay and move on to the detailed story.

Mathematics

All last years I stayed in hotels. Mainly in the suburbs of Palermo, in the city of Santa Flavia. An unremarkable Sicilian village with beautiful views and clean but miniature beaches. Why there? Because it's convenient. Firstly, there is an excellent hotel Domina Coral Bay Sicilia Zagarella, and secondly, the location is ideal for those who want to travel every day. Convenient travel to main highway, connecting Catania and Palermo. This year there were no available rooms in our favorite hotel, so we decided to rent an apartment.

A stylish apartment with a luxurious view of the sea, with an area of ​​65 meters, cost us 40 thousand rubles per week. It could easily accommodate 4 people, so the price, in my opinion, is very reasonable. Large kitchen with living room, 2 bathrooms and a cozy bedroom. Perfect. I realized that I like living in apartments much more than in a hotel. This is the only way I will travel from now on.

Airplane tickets from Moscow to Catania are reasonably priced. 24 thousand round trip per person. A rental car – in our case, a convertible with a Smart for two automatic – costs 40 thousand rubles from AVIS.

Gasoline is expensive - about 100 rubles per liter, so it is recommended to take a car with low consumption and preferably a diesel one. We spent about 11 thousand on fuel in 7 days, but we rode every day, crossing the island first along and then across. For convenience, you can first live in the northern part of the island, somewhere in the Palermo area, and then move closer to Catania so that you can explore the surrounding area without traveling 400 - 500 kilometers every day. A small life hack:

If possible, take a small car, because some streets are so narrow that even a Smart car will have difficulty getting through there.

So, Palermo is my favorite city on Earth, after Moscow, of course. Big, noisy, not at all touristy, slightly shabby, not very well maintained, but so beautiful and congenial. I feel at home there. I don’t stop there only because it’s not very convenient to get onto the intercity highway. I stopped once in Mondello (one of the most fashionable areas and beautiful beaches Palermo) and quickly became disillusioned with this idea.

What is the first thing to do when you find yourself in Palermo? Eat! The city is simply teeming with breathtaking and completely non-touristy restaurants. To understand the scale of how delicious it is, I returned to Sicily for the second time solely because of the food.

And only then, on the second trip, I truly discovered this island. My favorite restaurant in Palermo is Badalamenti Cucina e Bottega. Firstly, it’s delicious, secondly, it’s cozy, always crowded and fun, and thirdly, the owners are excellent.

The kindest and most hospitable Sicilians, brothers Marco and Luca Badalamenti. Now it's mine Good friends. The guys are fans of their business, so their restaurant is always very tasty. Only fresh products. Seasonality is observed. Great service. In general, you must visit, I promise you will be delighted.

Second favorite place– pizzeria El Baro. The most delicious pizza I've ever tried. In both places there are always a lot of people who want to spend the evening there, so it’s worth booking a table in advance. By the way, I would also like to recommend visiting a nightclub/bar on the seashore, it’s called Kalandria - it’s the most fun party I’ve ever been to.

Be careful: according to Palermo law, all night discos end at 3 am. So arrive early to enjoy plenty of dancing and delicious cocktails, which locals say are made by the best bartender in Sicily. You can also dance in Calamare, Baia, Solemar. We didn’t have time to visit, but they say it’s a lot of fun there. We'll definitely stop by next time.

Palermo has many attractions that are worth seeing.

The Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady is one of the most majestic buildings not only in Palermo, but in the whole world. Incredible size and beauty, amazing history. Being around him is simply breathtaking.

Not inferior in scope to the legendary Opera theatre Massimo. This is the third largest theater in Europe, only Paris and Vienna are larger.

Chilling Capuchin Catacombs – another controversial one business card Palermo. Creepy burials of the Sicilian nobility: human remains unceremoniously hung on the walls. Royal Norman Palace, local Botanical Garden, fountain of shame, street of five corners, Palatine Chapel, Admiral Church of Martorano.

And a whole day is not enough to explore all corners of incredible Palermo. I beg you, don’t skimp on your guide. Be sure to find good guide, this city is worth knowing its history. Why is there a city - the whole island. Just the stories about the mafia's antics can captivate you for the whole day.

By the way, about the mafia - these are not some kind of horror stories for children. One of the main reminders of the horrors that once reigned on the sunny island is the alley in the center of Palermo: frightening and futuristic, studded with strange pillars that do not fit into the architecture of the city, and names all around. Who are these people? Prosecutors who had the temerity to simply take this position. Some of them did not survive even a couple of months after joining the job - the mafia dealt with them with particular bloodthirstiness. Another terrible reminder is a monument near Palermo airport, which does not allow one to forget about the terrible massacre of the legendary Giovanni Falcone, a symbol of the fight against the mafia.

On May 23, 1992, 100 meters of the highway went up in a matter of seconds as the magistrate's motorcade rushed along the ill-fated road. This was the fate prepared for him by his enemies, who were greatly annoyed by his active work. By the way, since then the airport has been called Falcone Borsellino. Borsellino is Falcone's friend, who continued his work after the terrible tragedy. True, not for long - exactly 57 days later the mafia reached him, terrifying Palermo with another explosion right in the city center.

Montreal

In the suburbs of Palermo there is a small but very picturesque town of Monreale, where the Cathedral in honor of the Nativity is located Holy Mother of God. This is truly one of the most beautiful cathedrals in the world, famous for its incredible mosaics.

Among the attractions neighboring Palermo are also worth noting small town called Bageria. Firstly, there is the quaint Villa Palagonia or “Villa of the Monsters”, as tourists used to call it. A beautiful building of the 18th century, decorated with creepy sculptures of unknown animals. Time yourself to be there at lunchtime, because just around the corner, hidden behind an inconspicuous door, is the stunning Michelin-starred restaurant I Pupi. Get ready to hang out there for two hours, because every dish is a work of art.

There is another one 50 kilometers from Palermo paradise called Cefalu. It is small tourist town ok with an incredible cathedral in the very center of the pedestrian street.

There is a toll road on the Palermo-Cefalu section of the highway, its cost is 250 rubles. We arrived there early in the morning and found parking (I would like to note that at 12 o’clock in the afternoon we had great difficulty parking, so it is better to arrive early). We found a place on the beach (which also turned out to be problematic, since Cefalu is a favorite beach for tourists). Before lunch we lay on the beach and went to a restaurant. We were very hungry, so we sat down in the first place we found. It was terrible. Okay, not really terrible, but usually. But Sicily is still famous for its cuisine, so you don’t want to eat just anything. There are many restaurants in Cefalu, so read the reviews carefully and choose what you like.

Another feature of the city is the huge number of small shops with unusual things. Let's just say it's a Sicilian craft. Products, ceramics for which this island is so famous, textiles, jewelry, clothing and shoes. What’s remarkable is that there is no repeating assortment, each shop is unique.

In Cefalu we tried a local sweet for the first time - a brioche bun. A huge pastry in which 300-400 grams of ice cream is placed and decorated with a waffle. Let's face it, this delicacy contains more than 1,000 calories. But it’s possible just once, right? By the way, if desired, the bun itself can be spread with chocolate or peanut butter. But this is completely for those with a sweet tooth. By the way, about sweet tooths. Sicilians are obsessed with sweets. You can find a confectionery here even in the most God-forsaken wilderness. And believe me, it will still be very tasty. The coffee will also be excellent. Everywhere. Even at gas stations. So feel free to taste pastries, cookies, cakes, buns and ice cream wherever you meet them.

And one more life hack: if you like latte coffee, then know that to get it here, you need to say “Latte Macchiato”; if you just say “Latte”, you will get a glass of hot milk. I left the gas station several times with milk without coffee and only then found out what was going on.

In general, the history of Cefalu is worth studying more closely (like every Sicilian city), because it is very rich and interesting. Here you can find both Roman and Greek architecture, as well as Arabic. And that's impressive too.

Segesta

Let's move on. About 50 kilometers from Palermo lies the inimitable Segesta. A majestic temple built on the very edge of the mountain. Despite its incredible size and venerable age (the second half of the 5th century BC for a second), it is perfectly preserved and still fascinates with its beauty, grandeur and energy.

On the neighboring mountain there is a Greco-Roman theater of no less advanced age (III-IV centuries BC). The view from there is amazing. I can sit there for hours. There are not many tourists at all, so no one bothers you. The most incredible thing is that this theater is operational and, if you plan your vacation, you can get to some performance or concert. I haven’t succeeded yet, but it’s in the plans, because the atmosphere there is indescribable. Imagine, the stage is at an incredible height and in the background there is a view of the mountain valleys. Breathtaking.

It's a stone's throw from Segesta to Marsala. If you love good wine, you can’t help but visit here. The vineyards begin long before Segesta and do not end at all. There are many beautiful, ancient buildings, a very picturesque port and embankment, there is a tapestry museum and an archaeological park where you can see the wreckage of a Punic ship that sank in the 3rd century BC. But basically, everyone comes here for good wine. There are a lot of shops at factories where you can taste and buy the best Sicilian alcoholic drinks, as well as many other locally produced delicacies: from fish and cheese, to sweet almond or pistachio paste.

Life hack: fly to Sicily with an empty suitcase, or better yet, put a small one in a large suitcase. I won’t explain anything, just take my word for it, later you will thank you for this advice.

Corleone

Goosebumps, perhaps? Yes, that same legendary city, it exists, right here in Sicily, just 40 kilometers from Palermo in the interior of the island, hiding between the mountains and rocks. Quiet and cozy town, in which only the name reminds of the mafia. Although the mafia really lived there and, according to rumors, still lives there. Corleone is called the city of churches, of which there really are a lot. So be sure to walk around the city, carefully studying the location of all the churches, because getting around Corleone is difficult. You constantly have to make sharp ascents and descents.

I recommend visiting and nature reserves near the city: Carcaci, Monte San Genuardo and Ficuzza. And on the territory of Monte San Genuardo you can explore the Abbey of Santa Maria del Bosco. There is also a cross towering over the city, even two. Few people know, but there is a road to both. One can be reached by car, the second is more difficult. Halfway through the journey you will have to leave your car and walk. But believe me: it's worth it! Seeing this beauty from such a high altitude is indescribable. Well, the photographs turn out breathtaking. There are not many restaurants, so it is better to eat in advance. There are mostly tourist cafes around, but the coffee is still very tasty.

Agrigento

I’m writing the name and my hands are shaking. Memories came flooding back. Lord, how beautiful it is there, my friends. Agrigento has some of the largest archaeological excavations, bearing the majestic name “Valley of the Temples”.

So that you understand, the history of Agrigento dates back to the 6th century BC. Many of the exhibits have survived to this day in their original form, which certainly attracts thousands of tourists from all over the world.

But don't be afraid, the park is so huge that at times you will feel like you are completely alone. Comfortable shoes, a cap and water are mandatory attributes for this walk. Agrigento is one of the southernmost points of the island and it is really hot there.

70 kilometers from Agrigento is the town of Sciacca, famous for its thermal springs.

And just 18 kilometers from Agrigento you will find the Scala dei Turchi coast with snow-white cliffs and a clear, turquoise-colored Mediterranean Sea.

However, we were unlucky: there was a storm, and the water near the shore was muddy. Although there is not much to swim there, despite the beauty of the water. Firstly, even in August, when it was 43 degrees Celsius outside, the water was icy, and secondly, the entrance to the sea is rocky - huge stones will block your path.

There are desperate people, but they are few. And is it necessary? A little further from this place towards Agrigento, there are beautiful sandy beaches. Yes, there is no view of the snow-white cliffs, but the sea is no less attractive.

Life hack: park your car only in a specialized parking lot; we received a fine of 3,000 rubles for leaving a car in the wrong place.

I'm indifferent to Catania. Probably because it reminds me of Paris and I'm not a big fan of France, race aside. I prefer bright Italian architecture to gloomy French houses, but it’s worth a walk there. My friend Anya, with whom we traveled to Sicily this year, really liked it there. The main square is incredibly beautiful, the proximity of Etna, the fortress, a lot of people and restaurants. A typical tourist city, in my opinion. You can spend 2 hours on it, that’s enough for you.

Life hack: On the Palermo-Catania highway, about 70 kilometers from Catania, there is a huge outlet with approximately 160 stores. Here you will find everything from Prada to Nike. Feel free to spend the whole day walking, no one has ever gotten out of here faster. Sometimes a day wasn’t enough for us and we had to come back again. It's very acceptable prices, especially if you are in the sales season (July, August, January), when in all stores, where there is always a 50% discount on everything, they make an additional discount and once again cut the price in half.

Well, are you ready to see horror and greatness in all its glory? Then go ahead to conquer Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe. Just a hint – it’s always cold on Etna. Even if it’s 45 degrees at the foot of it (as it happened to me twice), you only have to go up a little and that’s it. North Pole. Take the warmest clothes if you want your walk to be long and comfortable. The crazy, icy wind last year literally knocked me off my feet. You can easily get to the middle of the mountain by your car. Then it’s better to park it in a small tourist town and choose a route: ski lift (about 2,000 thousand per person round trip) or on foot (for the most desperate). By the way, the lift has been demolished twice recently, but don’t be alarmed, eruptions are usually known in advance. By the way, last year I was lucky, and while living in a hotel in Taormina, right from my room window I watched black smoke pouring out of the central crater of Etna. True, I never had a chance to see the eruption; I flew away the day before the cherished event. But I believe that sooner or later I will be able to see this beauty with my own eyes.

Local residents dote on their volcano, call it kind and are not at all afraid. And this despite the fact that during its entire existence, Etna erupted more than 200 times and claimed the lives of more than 100 thousand people. The land on it and in its surroundings is very fertile, so villages and small towns here are shamelessly located almost to the middle of the volcano. Who knows first-hand about the saying: “Living like on a volcano.” The funicular will not take you to the top, but will leave you in the middle of the road. You can get higher by a special bus. I’ll be honest: I’ve never been to the very top. There are several reasons: even in the middle it’s so cold that none of the warm clothes can save you, you really need a ski overall, it’s scary to imagine what’s at the top. Plus, it's cloudy. It is almost impossible to catch Etna without haze. Even in the middle of the volcano, your head is already in the “sky,” so you won’t be able to see all the landscapes from a height of 3,000 meters above sea level, and the mountain itself looks the same, both below and above: ash and frozen lava, nothing more.

Do not wear light-colored and new shoes; you will not be able to wash them off from soot later.

Taormina

From Catania to Taormina it is about 50 kilometers, along a toll road (about 200 rubles one way), 30 of which will seem like an eternity to you, because the serpentine road will begin. It is, however, brightened up by the landscapes. And the higher you go, the more beautiful they become.

And when the view of the sea opens up, with Etna towering in the background, you will forget about everything in the world. Ilya Erenburg, the author of the phrase “See Paris and die,” simply did not see this landscape. This picture is especially beautiful in May, when the top of Etna is still covered with snow. Taormina is the most expensive city for tourists to live in. Prices good hotels prices there are exorbitant and reach 200 thousand rubles per room per day. On the main street you will find boutiques of all famous brands and hundreds of shops selling souvenirs, ceramics and local products.

Don’t rush to buy gifts here, prices in this city are very inflated: you will find everything the same in Cefalu for 2 times cheaper. This also applies to boutiques - in Palermo you can shop for less money. Taormina is Monte Carlo in Sicilian style. The Taormina Film Fest, concerts of world celebrities take place here, and simply all the rich people who fly to Sicily on vacation are based here.

I lived there for 5 days last year, in wonderful hotel Atahotel Capa Taormina, but given the thirst for knowledge and adventure, this place seemed inconvenient to me, because the path from here along the serpentine towards adventure takes too much time. Plus, crowds of people confuse and slightly spoil the impression of the holiday.

Among the attractions: ruins of the ancient Roman period and an ancient theater. The latter was built back in the Hellenistic era (III-II centuries BC), although 300 years later the Romans, who took possession of the city, rebuilt the theater and made it a venue for gladiator fights. Nowadays, musical and theatrical performances are held here, as well as the annual International Festival arts Taormina Arte. Entrance to the theater is paid and will cost you 700 rubles per person, but the main thing in Taormina is the views. Beautiful landscapes, picturesque capes and that incredible view of Etna.

Alcantara

Not far from Taormina you will find the famous Alcantara Gorge – favorite with tourists place. The length of the gorge is approximately 6 kilometers, 3 of which you can walk along the water between the rocks. Entrance to the park is paid, approximately 700 rubles per person, depending on the time of visit. The most expensive ticket will cost 1,000 rubles. In Sicily, prices for visiting museums, parks, and so on are generally very reasonable.

On the way from Catania to Syracuse you will find the first Baroque city of Nomo. And not only in Sicily, but throughout the world, it seems to me. If you are a fan of this style like me, you definitely need to come here. Incredibly beautiful, harmonious, cozy. It's like you're in your own little fairy tale. Lots of cafes near the most picturesque buildings. I recommend visiting a small pastry shop called Sicily, which is located on the central street of Noto; the desserts there are truly divine.

Last year I was lucky and found myself in this city in May, during the flower festival, when several central streets are lined with paintings of flowers. I climbed one of the elevated observation platforms and got the opportunity to see all this beauty en masse. There is a minus - on this day the small town is literally bursting with an influx of tourists and you cannot drive there by car. The police park you in the suburbs, and then you drive in special free buses. There are thousands of people, it’s a little annoying.

Syracuse

This pearl of Sicily is located just 110 kilometers from Catania on the shores of the Ionian Sea. Why should you stay there? Firstly, along the way you can stop by the city of Nomo, and secondly, there is an incredible archaeological park in which you will see Greek and Roman amphitheaters.

“Ear” of Dionysius in the famous quarries of St. Venus. By the way, this is where, according to legend, the grave of Archimedes, who lived in Syracuse, is located, but opinions differ - whether the grave really exists or these are fairy tales for tourists. Unfortunately, the most beautiful part of the quarries, which now looks more like a park, has been closed for two years for unknown reasons. I was able to visit there only once, then they stopped letting me go beyond the “Ear” of Dionysius, and this is really a loss, because I remember the second part of the park with bated breath. It looks like landscapes from some expensive fantasy. I hope it will be reopened to tourists soon.

Also in the city of Syracuse there are incredibly beautiful embankments and alleys in the center, hundreds of restaurants, a beautiful port, incredible architecture in both the old and new parts of the city.

Grand Canyon of Cavagrande

Let's classify this place as unexplored Sicily. Few people know about its existence. It is located in the suburbs of Syracuse and Noto. We traveled unprepared and had no idea what awaited us.

Climbing higher and higher along the mountain roads, we asked the question: “How can we even place a lake here?” The answer did not take long to arrive. We arrived at a specialized tourist parking lot and realized that we had “gotten it” when we saw the treasured turquoise water somewhere in the distance below.

Descent is only on foot, along the rocks. About 4 kilometers down and the same amount up, respectively. But we didn’t regret this hike for a single second, although the road was undoubtedly difficult.

Landscapes, air and anticipation of beauty give strength. Dear readers, don’t be lazy, this is truly amazing. The purest water Tiffany colors: we are back in a fairy tale.

Selinunte

I would also like to mention the archaeological park of Selinunte - a Greek colony founded around 650 BC. Unfortunately, the temples did not survive to our times; those that we see in the pictures are restored. I went there for show, but I wouldn’t go back a second time, especially if I had a choice between going there or Agrigento. But it is certainly very beautiful. Temples (albeit restored) against the backdrop of the sea are an incredible sight. The main advantage is that there are almost no people. We were the only ones there, so we had the opportunity to jump over all the stones, touch them with our hands and take pictures wherever we wanted.

Villa Romana Del Casale

It is located somewhere in the center of the island, near the town of Piazza Armerina. Its construction dates back to around the 4th century AD. Why should you stop by? To simply be stunned by how the rich Romans lived and that their villas were not inferior to modern ones. Heated floors, guys, they had heated floors! But the main highlight of the villa is, of course, the mosaic. These mosaics are among the most important and expensive collections ancient Rome, preserved to this day. The subjects are different: horse racing, tiger hunting, erotica, famous girls in bikinis... In general, the place amazes with its beauty, wealth and decoration.

#travel #rentcar #italy
Concluding about our difficult, but, in general, successful experience of the first car trip around Europe, I would like to talk separately about the features of traveling by car specifically in Sicily. Although I admit that much of this post can be applied to all of Italy.

Navigator: friend or foe?

One of the biggest problems in our road trip was the navigator, which was later nicknamed Figator for all the “good” it did for us! It seemed expensive, smart, with updated maps of Europe, but at first it generally refused to receive signals from the satellite. It was only later that experienced users explained that this often happens when using a “sophisticated machine” in a new place, and then we were seriously scared. However, the problems did not end there. Here are some other surprises Figator presented...

Incorrect information about the maximum permissible speed on highways
In this sense, always rely only on road signs, because very often the navigator gives a completely different permitted speed, but you will have to pay the fines, not him!

Calculation of the route without taking into account repair work and bypass roads
Again, look at the signs and be guided by the situation on the road. Information about repair work and options for bypassing them is updated more slowly than the repair process itself occurs (strange, right?)))

Problems with orientation in small towns
Either because of the weak signal from the satellite on narrow streets, or because of the frequent turns and U-turns between short alleys, in small Italian towns our Figator was completely lost and did not have time to understand where we were. Here we can only advise you not to get into the center of such cities by car, and if you do get there, then move slowly, not paying attention to the horns of impatient local residents.

At intersections and on roundabouts, the navigator must be “trusted, but verified”
In other words, in those places where the road diverges in different directions and there are several route options, you need not only to listen to the navigator, but also to turn on logic, look at the signs, and sometimes also at the map (this should be done by the navigator). It often happens that the electronic guide does not see some roads and, for example, at a roundabout it advises you to take the first turn to the right, but in fact you need the second turn, the navigator just doesn’t know about the first one.

Incorrect calculation of the shortest route
Once upon a time Figator led us from one coastal city in the other almost through the center of the island. At first we blindly trusted him and moved along the proposed route, but halfway through the journey we came to our senses, grabbed the map and went as common sense dictated. Therefore, always check the route that the “infernal machine” offers you with the terrain plan.

Don't trust electronic timing calculations
Since the navigator rarely knows the maximum permissible speed on the highway, and even more so he does not know at what speed it is actually possible to move along a mountain serpentine road, it is impossible to rely on time calculations of the electronics. Unfortunately, in the mountains, it’s difficult even to predict how many hours it will take to cover this or that section of the road. The most difficult journey for us was 160 kilometers of serpentine road, which we covered for four and a half hours! In some places it was impossible to drive at a speed of more than 50 kilometers per hour; in some places there were restrictive signs. Plus a couple of rest stops: such roads are difficult for both drivers and especially sensitive passengers. Well, as always, allowance for wandering through the navigator, which was the only one to navigate between countless ascents and descents, but clearly forced us to add an extra 10-20 kilometers. IN in this case I can only advise one thing: look at the map and try to avoid mountain roads where possible. It is better to drive a longer section along a normal road than a shorter section along a serpentine road.

Serpentine climb to the town of Savoca, Sicily
Photo site

Road in the Le Madonie mountains, at the entrance to the town of Isnello, Sicily
Photo site

The route passing through the territory natural park Le Madonie, Sicily
Photo site

Toll roads

We encountered toll roads in Sicily only twice, spending a total of 3.5 euros (10 cents per kilometer) on them. Moreover, the function of plotting a route along toll roads in our Figator was turned off! No comments needed)))

There's nothing wrong with toll roads we didn’t notice, although we initially tried to avoid them. For the first time, the navigator brought me to a toll section on the way from Palermo to Cefalu (Palermo-Messina highway). At first we were driving along an ordinary road, although on the maps it was indicated as a toll road, and then suddenly we saw “Telepass” signs and after a couple of kilometers we found ourselves in front of a checkpoint. Next, we proceeded according to: we went to those “gates” where there was NOT the inscription “Telepass” (this is only for those who have special cards to pay for roads), we took a ticket from the machine, after which the barrier opened and we drove onto the toll highway. After 9 kilometers the checkpoint loomed again, we drove up to where payment was shown in cash or by bank card(not “Telepass”!), gave the employee at the window your ticket, paid 90 cents and moved on.

The second time we drove onto the highway deliberately, because we were tired of driving around on free roads that go through all the cities and towns, where the Figator always gets lost and tries to send us somewhere in the wrong direction. So we got to toll road on the road from Catania to Messina. For this pleasure I had to pay more - 2.6 euros (apparently, for 26 kilometers of travel). By the way, we were driving back on a free and more scenic road along the sea. Beautiful, of course, but much more confusing and slower, while Figator cursed desperately and again tried to drive us deep into the island!

An amazing route, and it’s also free! Somewhere in the south of Sicily...
Photo site

Parking in cities

Parking issue Italian cities often becomes the biggest problem for auto travelers. That is why we tried to find in advance greatest number free or paid (but organized!) parking at the points where you were going to stay.

In Italy there is several types of parking:

• Large multi-storey car parks, quite expensive, but there are always free places there. Payment is carried out as follows: when entering, you need to take a special coupon from the machine in front of the barrier, on the basis of which you can then pay at the cash desk before picking up the car.

• Equipped parking lots They will cost a little less, there is less space on them, but we had no problems with this. Payment is usually made according to the same scheme as for parking, although we received a coupon not at the entrance, but at the ticket office itself after we parked the car.

• Parking spaces on streets and squares cities, in turn, are divided into three categories: free (outlined in white), paid (outlined in blue) and private, assigned to organizations or residential buildings(indicated in yellow). It is absolutely forbidden to borrow the latter. With free parking spaces, everything is simple: you came, you saw, you won, you took it, if you’re lucky. However, on the busy streets of big cities or around iconic landmarks, you will find free parking more difficult than a needle in a haystack. Therefore, sometimes you had to get into paid blue spaces, the cost of which is always indicated under the parking sign (usually from 50 cents to 1 euro per hour). Here there are also variations on the theme of payment:

— payment to the "caretaker" parking cash directly into your hands. Tariffing can be either daily (about 2-3 euros) or hourly (0.50 - 1 euro per hour).

— payment at the machine, which, fortunately, we did not encounter! In this case, it is probably easier to ask local residents for help than to try to deal with the machine. Italians (and especially Sicilians!) are for the most part very kind and sympathetic, so the only problem that may arise is lack of knowledge of Italian. But in the case of hourly parking, pen and paper will save you: you can write and understand what time you want to pick up the car in any language!

— payment with special coupons, which can be purchased at the nearest tobacco shop, it is usually located nearby. First, figure out how long you want to leave the car in the parking lot, and then inform the seller at the tobacco shop about your plans, who will determine how much and what you need to buy. Usually one coupon corresponds to one hour of parking, but there are also options for half a day, a day, a week, etc. A coupon with lots of numbers will make you panic at first, but it's actually not difficult to figure out. Here as in lottery tickets Use a coin to erase the protective layer in the corresponding columns (see photo below). In the first line you need to note the year (anno), below - the month (mese), and then - the date (giorno). Even lower, erase the hour (ora) and in the last line – minutes (min). This indicates the date and time when you leave the car, and then based on the face value of the coupon you can determine how long the parking is paid for. We didn’t bother at all and asked the tobacconist’s seller to help us figure out all these numbers. And then all that was left was to put the coupon under the windshield and go for a walk.

Coupon for parking in Messina, Sicily
Photo site

It must also be said about siesta, which even exists for paid parking spaces! On weekdays, from about 1 to 3 p.m., the whole of Italy goes to lunch; during this time, parking in paid blue parking lots often becomes free. Similar concessions sometimes apply at night and on weekends, and near attractions - during the break between tourist seasons, for example, in winter. However, the exact schedule and price tags should always be looked at on special signs located under the parking sign! To better understand them, I recommend learning or writing down how months and days of the week are indicated in Italian.

We were lucky to get such semi-free parking in the center of Messina. Leaving the car for three hours in paid blue spaces, we purchased a coupon only to pay for the first hour, we were forgiven for 20 minutes, and then lunch time just began, during which parking became free. It turned out very profitable!

• Free unmarked parking spaces they are most frightening because it is not always clear whether you can stand there or not. In this case, we again had to seek help from to the local population. Therefore, those who do not own Italian, I also advise you to learn the phrase “ Mi scusi, signor / signora! Il parcheggio qui è gratuito?". With the answer " si" or " no"I don't think there will be any problems)

In conclusion to the topic of parking, I would also like to note that valuables left in the car No one will be held responsible, even in paid parking lots or parking lots. Therefore, always carry cameras, laptops, and gold and diamonds with you. In addition, it is not recommended to leave bags and packages in a visible place, so try to put everything in the trunk or hide it in the glove compartment as much as possible, just don’t forget about the hidden stuff later)

Photo site

Traditional Italian parking style)))
Photo site

Gas stations

We were most lucky with fuel, or more precisely with the fact that the rented Citroën-3 was powered by diesel, the price tag for which is always lower than for gasoline. At the time of our trip approximate figures were as follows:
gasoline – 1.83 euros per liter
diesel - 1.72 euros per liter (although it was both more expensive and cheaper)

Concerning gas stations , then two types were discovered:

• automatic, where you can only refuel for a certain amount, but it is impossible to set the displacement or, for example, fill a full tank, which became a small problem for us;
• traditional non-automatic, no different from their Russian counterparts.

We were lucky: at all gas stations it was possible to pay with living people, in fact, with those who served the car, and they didn’t even take tips, apparently not accepted. However, judging by the reviews of other car travelers, at night and on weekends (and in the north of the country even during the day!) Most gas stations operate in automatic mode, so be prepared to communicate with a machine or try to refuel on weekdays during daylight hours. The only exceptions are AutoGrill complexes, located mainly on major highways. Here you can find not only 24-hour non-automatic gas stations, but also cafes, toilets and even a small store.

Average fuel prices in Italy
Photo site

Features of national roads and driving style

Roads all over the island are quite good, and everything from toll highways to village roads, from mountain serpentines to streets in small towns. Rumor has it that this is all the work of the Sicilian mafia, which for some time now has been trying to keep the island in order, including the roads))) The only strong flaws we encountered were only in the area northern slope Etna, however, it was clear that the road itself was good, so we attributed all its “swelling” to the frequent eruptions and earthquakes in this area.

But on the southern slope of Etna the roads are fine!
Photo site

Road markings I was also pleased, especially the presence of reflectors, which greatly helped when driving in the dark. I would like to note that at night we drifted onto a non-main road, but due to the competent markings, driving along it was quite comfortable.

A separate story - Sicilian road signs, which may take some time to get used to. The biggest problem is that it is not always clear where exactly the sign or pointer to this or that is pointing locality. A couple of times we even had to stop and check the map: where we were going and what the sign said about it.

Road signs in the town of Corleone (yes, that same one!)
Photo site

On compliance with traffic rules The locals don't bother much. Usually they break the speed limit; overtake where it is prohibited; rarely use turn signals; they park at random, sometimes under “no parking” signs, but more often in the second and even third row with the emergency lights (although they are not always turned on). However, I would not recommend adopting Italian bad manners. Remember that they are violating the rules in their own country, but you still have to obtain Schengen visas, which may not be affected in the best way by the presence of fines.

Despite the frequent violations and generally somewhat chaotic situation on Sicilian roads, accidents on the island occur much less frequently than in Russia. Probably the main reason for this is mutual understanding between all traffic participants. It often becomes unimportant which road you are driving on (the main one or not), they may give way to you or, on the contrary, gently ask you to go ahead. Much here is decided at the level of glances, gestures (exceptionally decent!) and polite attitude towards other drivers. Everyone tries to give way to each other, especially on narrow streets or when climbing a hill. Illegal parking (second or third row) or violation of rules by pedestrians is treated leniently. There are also cases when two drivers chat too enthusiastically at a traffic light and do not have time to react to the green light, or, for example, while standing in a traffic jam, someone driving meets a familiar pedestrian and, after talking with him for a couple of minutes, brakes and movement is already slow. All this is in the order of things in Sicily and it is customary to respond to such situations patiently. However, if you hesitate at a fork or park on the street for too long, you may be honked at. The logic here is inexplicable, but you need to take everything calmly, after all, in this case you are a guest.

Heavy traffic on the roads happens, especially during working hours and in big cities(Palermo, Catania, Messina). True, if you remember St. Petersburg or Moscow, then Italian traffic jams can rather be described as “small congestion.” But if you suddenly find yourself in heavy traffic on the highway, remember that in Europe there is a rule: the last car arriving must turn on its hazard lights so that the cars behind it have time to reduce their speed in advance. This helps avoid accidents involving large quantity cars

Other Animals can create emergency situations, freely accessing the road from numerous pastures. We came across dogs like this a couple of times, but the worst thing was the encounter with a herd of horses walking right along our lane, and against the movement of the car! True, we must give them their due, at the sight of us the animals quickly mobilized, crossed into the oncoming lane and continued to walk at least according to the rules of the road. In addition to dogs and horses, on the roads of Sicily you can also meet cows (there are warning signs about this everywhere), and less often sheep.

Cow warning signs are scattered all over the roads in Sicily
Photo site

And here is the hero of the occasion, walking along the highway
Photo site

And finally the latest feature of Italian roads lies in their size and inclination relative to the horizon line. Since most of the country is located in mountainous areas, and cities with cramped streets were built many centuries ago, residents of the Russian plains may have some conflicts with the surrounding reality. The first concerns narrow roads, which are mostly one-way, but there are exceptions. Therefore, if you are moving along a street or road where only your car can fit, this does not mean that no one will come towards you because of the turn. Another surprise is usually sharp ascents and descents, both on mountain serpentine roads, which is expected, and in big cities or small villages. And no matter how experienced your driver is, Italian roads can surprise even those who have seen a lot behind the wheel!

Big car on a small street in the town of Monreale, Sicily
During the filming of this shot, two balconies of a residential building were damaged.
Photo site

Alcohol standards

In Italy, the maximum permissible blood alcohol limit for a driver is 0.5 ppm. Therefore, if you don’t get carried away, then in the evenings you can taste a variety of local wines or even something stronger. However, I would advise young and inexperienced drivers to study the Italian traffic rules in more detail, because I just recently found information about additional restrictions specifically for this category of people.

Communication with the traffic police

There were few law enforcement officers seen on the roads of Sicily, but we were still lucky enough to talk to one of them. The policeman stopped us just at the moment when we were arguing with the Figator and trying to figure out where to go next. Either from the horribly pronounced “bongiorno”, or from our frightened faces, the Italian immediately realized that he was dealing with foreigners and switched to English. It's strange that he even knew this language! First he asked where we were from, then he clarified that the car was rented, and then he let us go, wishing Have a good day. I didn’t even have time to get very scared and put on a seat belt, which I really didn’t want to fasten in the back seat, although in fact it was necessary. No one stopped us anymore, but it should be noted that we did not violate any traffic rules. That is, they didn’t violate it AT ALL, even in small things (unfastened seat belt in the back seat doesn’t count)))

That's all for today! All that remains is to sum up our road trip through Sicily, but this will happen next time, along with all the numerical indicators of the trip that many of you asked to publish. So I’ll go count the euro-liters-kilometers, and you wait for the new post! See you)

Sicily is synonymous with sun, history, lemons and mafia. But don't let thoughts of the mafia put you off visiting this place, they don't want tourists. Instead, you will receive a warm welcome from most Sicilians, who are more interested in showing off their treasures than depriving them of yours. There are many reasons to visit Sicily, a huge island in the Mediterranean, including magnificent cities, fascinating archeology Ancient Greece and the Roman Empire, delicious seafood, wine and cassata ( local dish). There is everything you need for a holiday here: best food, good beaches and, ultimately, this is Italy!

Ancient city of Palermo

The ancient city of Palermo, the capital of Sicily, is an excellent starting point for exploring with a rental car. Arriving there early on the overnight ferry from Naples, we took a taxi to the central railway station, where we boarded a local bus for the 15-kilometer journey to Montreal, famous for its great Arab-Norman Cathedral, decorated with colorful 12th-century glass mosaics. Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox cultures are wonderfully mixed here, so there is much to admire, including the monasteries and their bronze doors.

The bus took us back through Independence Square, home to one of the most beautiful castles in Europe. IN Royal Palace Palermo has been the seat of the rulers of Sicily since the 9th century and is even now the seat of regional officials. Local politicians were lucky enough to govern in such an architectural gem with its beautiful mosaics, painted roof and marble walls.

In 1599, a local nun was mummified in Palermo, so you can still pray for her. Today her body joined thousands of others that lined up like a painting within the walls of the Capuchin catacombs. There are their bodies in original medieval clothes, skeletons and even children. This, of course, is an eerie sight, but then we went out into the fresh air with the bright sun and still had lunch of pepperoni, salami, olives, fried eggplant and polenta.

Ancient fishing town of Cefalu

With our rented car it was easy to drive an hour east to Cefalu, which initially positions itself as a fishing port. It is now an attractive cobbled tourist town with sandy beach, not yet completely filled with sun loungers. We settled in an old stone house just a minute's walk from the Cathedral on main square. It's easy to find a table at a restaurant overlooking the sea, serving chilled Sicilian wine while the explosive sunset sky provides a backdrop for strolling families. The next day, after a croissant and cappuccino in the square, we headed further to the coast of the town of Tindari to enjoy a refreshing swim in the sea. We then took the motorway to Taormina, through tunnels past Messina until we climbed a steep hill from where we could see the entire city at a glance.

It took us a while to find the entrance to the car park from where we took the elevator to our hotel, located on Corso Umberto, the main pedestrian street here with its extraordinary views of the Ionian Sea, located just 250 meters below, and overlooking Mount Etna above, one of those operating in Europe.

Sicilian walk

Taormina has many bars and restaurants where you can drink a Marsala or Campari martini and just people watch. On most evenings you can see Sicilians, dressed in their finery, strutting through the streets. Alternatively, book the Opera or visit the Ancient Theatre, dating back to Greek and Roman times. It's a pity that the Opera was canceled during our stay. But, washing down the cooked swordfish with local wine, local restaurant, we eased the bitterness of loss. 🙂

Two days later we arrived in Syracuse on the southeast corner of the island, one of the most powerful cities in the Mediterranean. We stayed on the island of Ortigia, in the oldest part of the city, which is connected to Syracuse by a bridge. It is not surprising that UNESCO included this area in the list World Heritage with its mix of magnificent medieval buildings, including an early 7th century Cathedral and Greco-Roman amphitheaters on the outskirts.

The next day was easy day trip to the ancient limestone towns of Modica, Ragusa and Noto, the latter of which was quickly rebuilt in the 18th century in Baroque style after the city was destroyed by an earthquake in 1693.

After two nights in Syracuse, we drove through the countryside through olive groves and vineyards to find the world's largest collection of Roman mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale on Armory Square. The large villa once belonged to Emperor Maximian and is also under UNESCO protection. Its mosaics are very well preserved because they were covered with earth during a landslide in the 12th century.

Valley of Greek Temples

Our final destination of the day was Agrigento, famous for its Valley of the Temples. It was exciting to look out the hotel window and see if there were Greek temples there. In ancient times this city was called Akragas, dominated by seven great Doric Greek temples built in the seventh and sixth centuries BC. Today, some of them are perfectly preserved, making this area one of the most important archaeological sites in the world. It’s very nice to walk here for a couple of hours with a local guide, especially at the end of the day, when the setting sun illuminates the temples.

We had planned to spend our last night in northeastern Erice. I had read that it was a medieval town close to the coast, but didn't realize, as our satnav directed us into the hills, that it was located on top of a mountain with dramatic views down to the wide plain and town of Trapani.

It seemed as if our hotel pool was on the edge of an abyss, and the city was hidden by an old stone wall. Erice, with its slippery polished slabs, also tumbles down the hill with its bars serving icy cocktails and excellent restaurants where vineyards hide their doors.

From here it was easy to take the motorway to the airport in Palermo to catch our flight the next morning.

Our week in Sicily gave us a great taste of the region - food, wine, archeology and stunning medieval cities - and we hope to return for another trip.

How to get to Sicily?

By air: by plane to Palermo, Catania or Trapani from international airports Rome or Milan (there are good connecting flights there).

By train: there are a lot of railway connections that go through the Strait of Messina.

By sea: Ferries and ships depart to Sicily from several cities in Italy. The ferry ride from Naples takes 5 hours, some companies can additionally transport your car. Ferries depart from Naples, Citavecchia (Rome), Genoa, Livorno, Salerno, Calabria, Malta and Tunisia. One of the most popular ferries is from Villa San Giovanni in Calabria to Messina, in eastern Sicily.

We traveled overnight on the Tirrenia ferry from Naples to Palermo www.aferry.com/Tirrenia-Ferries. The cabin was clean and tidy and there was a canteen style restaurant on board. Arriving at 6.30am gave us a full day to sightsee in Palermo before we picked up our rental car in the afternoon and drove to Cefalu in the evening.

If you're an independent traveler, renting a car is a great way to get around the island, but due to some of the narrow village streets in Sicily, I recommend renting a small car. We rented a car from EuropCar Ristorante Monte Sa Guillano, Erice